Brilliant video. Not a lot of people understand this of backfilling with native soil and the inoculation process. Lots of people put there plant in organic matter. Lots of people has issues with root rot in containers and they thing it's water and not proper drainage etc. However it's actually too much organic matter in potting soil. I use sand in my containers and then I just put a small layer of home made compost on top of the soil and and cover it with leaves. My plants grow twice as fast in containers than at the nurseries around me because I just use sand in my containers. The roots are white and thick when I up pot it. So I love your video. 100%
Hi, can you explain exactly what you use? Sand mixed with soil? And then compost on top? Or just pure sand? Where do you live- hot or cold? And for all types of potted plants? What about blueberries in a pot? Thanks 😊
@@JennyThompson-iv1ot Hi there 😊. Lol I'm not professional, however I do have lots of success with my gardening. So I am actually from South Africa. We have a temperate Mediterranean climate. Hot summers and cold winters. However it's not the same as a subtropical region. But we can create micro climates where we can grow subtropical trees. So what I mean by the sand is basically just rhe typical dirt that you find in your yard if it's not clay soil. I don't mean white dead sand that's used in construction lol ( this dead white construction sand is great for storing tubers or root crops). So I just take sand in my yard, like the soil that is beneath your grass. I fill my container 3/4 of the way up with sandy soil while my plant is in the bucket. Then I add compost of any sort ( I make my own compost with food scraps or leaves and grass) Then I add that on top of the sand soil. I don't mix the compost into my sand. I just layer it on top. Then I add leaves on top or any mulch to cover that. When you water your plant. The water will take some of that compost and microbiology down into the sand and it will introduce microbiology into that sand if there is not any there. The compost will also feed any microbiology in that sand. So then the microbiology will feed your plants. The compost don't feed your plants. Many people think the compost feeds your plants, but it actually feeds the microbiology in the soil. The by product of the microbiology is what feeds the plants. What they produce is small enough for the roots to uptake. So this is why in a container or even in a garden, if compost is added as a top soil, you will see over time miraculously the compost will dissappear over time and more compost will need to be added. That's because the microbiology is eating the compost up over time slowly. So if there is no air, water, food for the microbiology then they will die. So if compost is added into the soil, then it creates an anaerobic environment where microbiology don't have oxygen to survive, and also roots will rot because they are suffocating in slimy decaying matter. So many people think that there plant died because they over watered. They see the roots turned black. But that's not the case. The roots suffocated because of the soil they are using. If you buy soil from a nursery or hardware, the soil is mostly compost. So people plant there plant in decaying matter lol. That's why you will see, in any forest, you find the roots of the tree grows in sand, while the leaves accumulate on top of the soil which breaks down. The leaves is decaying matter which which microbiology in the sand feed on. Then they feed the roots of the trees. Amazing isn't it. Lol I hope my message was clear and not confusing. I typed maybe too much that wasn't necessary and maybe you know all those things already lol. This works with any plant including blue berries. Sometimes if a plant lack something then you jut research what the plant might be lacking if the leaves does something or doesn't grow right. Then you just add it on top of the soil. Dont mix it into the soil. But any plant will grow with this strategy. You don't need to buy any additional products. People say that seedling trees needs years to grow before producing fruits. I grew Pomegranates from seeds and its in containers, not even in the ground. After 2 years a few of the trees started flowing. The flowers fell off because they are still young but they flowered just after 2 years and I use nothing special for my plants. I don't buy anything. I don't even buy soil or compost. I just use what I have if you don't have sand around your property. Lol find a park or a public field or some place where you can just scoop up some dirt to fill your containers. Just make sure your dirt is not 100% clay because that can hold way too much water and might suffocate your plants because the clay can become too compact after watering
Thank you that was interesting! I live in England and I don’t think of my native soil which the grass grows on top of as sand but rather as soil- because the texture of is soil-y rather than sandy. But there is one area around my house where there is sandy soil. It’s helpful to know that I can just dig up regular soil and then put a layer of compost on top. :) thank you for all of the information, it’s very much appreciated.
@@JennyThompson-iv1ot no problem. Im happy that my bit of knowledge could help someone else. Awesome. Sorry about the terms I used with regards to sand and soil. Lol I watch videos on youtube and I see many people use the terms interchangeably, so I'm not sure who understands sand as soil and soil as sand and some people even understand compost to be soil lol. So I I didn't know how to properly explain it. But you get it lol. So yes the native soil should just be dug up and put in a pot. As long as the native soil is not too compact and clay like. Then it will work beautifully. Clay soil is not too good in a container. It will make the roots rot because the clay compacts down too much. So if you have clay soil as native soil then rather mix a substrate like small tiny stones in your soil before you put it in the pot. That way it will help with drainage. But if your native soil is just nice normal soil. Then yes just dig that up and place in your pot and layer compost as top soil. I promise your plants will absolutely love it and you won't have to water as much because the soil will retain moisture where as a lot of store bought compost have a lot of wood chips or bark and other components that dry up and drain too quickly. The soil underground retains moisture and stays cool that's why trees in the ground if established might never have to be watered. So if we imitate nature, we will never be fooled by money making advertisements lol that fools us in spending so much money on things which is supposed to be free. Enjoy🙂
I hear you 🙂 thanks. With my blueberries, they’re going to need acid soil. I’ve got an acid soil mix and also some sulphur chips I can add which will slowly acidify the soil. So would that work as in acidifying the regular soil underneath? I made a mix of ericaceous, peat moss compost, and John innes seed compost, and my ph strip showed it’s still not quite within the perfect ph rang so hence why I’m planning to add sulphur. But I haven’t actually put the blueberries in there yet. Since reading your info I’m wondering about doing as you suggest but yeah I just don’t know anything about soil science so idk if the acid from the soil will transfer down in to the regular soil with time as you suggest?
I cut landscape cloth to fit the bottom of a large planter. This is to decrease the amount of soil that might be carried away through the drainage hole.
Landscape cloth can eventually clog up as the soil breaks down. Try instead, a sheet of newspaper, or a thinly stretched layer of coco coir over the large holes of the pot. These materials will keep soil from falling out of a new transplant and allow water to drain. By the time the newspaper or coir break down, the plant's own roots have established enough to hold the soil.
I see in your videos that you dig square holes for planting trees. Do you support the square vs round technique? Thanks again for more great information and debunking myths.
When it came to my mother and grandmother I think the gravel/ broken pots in the bottom sprang from wanting to b frugal. They were from the depression and i don't remember them throwing much away.
I’m in Florida and I have very dense clay soil, not typical clay, it’s like something you can mold into a vase or something. It’s got the consistency of silly putty! 😬 Am I doing the right thing by mixing in peat moss, into the clay soil to help break it up and help with drainage when planting new shrubs? I turned the soil several times adding in peat moss and then raking it together and spreading it out to allow the sun to remove some of the moisture. I did this about 3 times before planting my shrubs, and then adding a layer of mulch.
James, as I just responded in your other comment....peat moss has some good attributes but overall it's not that good for soil - not like a good quality compost! I would recommend using our Penetrate Liquid Bio-Tiller which is great at loosening up dense, problem soil. Then apply our Blend which works just like a good quality compost, infusing and encouraging life in your soil. If you have any other question please don't hesitate to ask :)
Here’s my issue. I have a row of arborvitae that I planted near my back fence for a privacy hedge. The issue is that the back fence is at the end of my yard where all the rain water drains to. Since my yard is sloped away from the foundation of my house. There’s no soil drainage whatsoever. My arbs have been dying due to wet feet and root fungal issues. I have tried to plant these mounded up and that doesn’t help. I can’t install a French drain since there’s no where else for the water to flow - it’s already at the lowest point on the property. I was considering using the gravel method, then landscaping tarp on top, and then backfill when planting on top of that. Any idea or suggestions? Just fyi my soil is decent loam for 2 feet and then it hits clay.
A few thoughts re: your difficult situation. I consider implementation of 3 options in similar situations and sometimes I do all of them. I always use our Blend and our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller to improve the basic drainage of the soil. By your description I can tell this won't provide a 100% solution. Second, I see if I can install a simple drainage system using 3" solid drainage pipe to take water to a lower elevation. Even though the back of your lot slopes to your back fence it is possible that your back fence is still higher than your street or higher than some other location in your front yard. If so, we trench to provide a very small, gradual grade from the low spot in the back to the lower spot somewhere else in your yard. We then install drainage pipes and inlets strategically. Third, we consider dry wells filled w/ gravel at the lowest spots. Sometimes we dig these ourselves manually 5' deep or so and 2-3' wide or we hire a company like Big Bore who drills to sand and can line the massive hole with brick or fill the whole thing w/ gravel for 6-$8,000. per dry well. Those 3 options all work to varying degrees and I evaluate the benefits of each based on the specifics of the project.
so if you want to grow in a pot that DOES Have water retention in the bottom of pot so the roots can reach some water when you forget to water for a few weeks and is too hot there will be some water there in the pot and extend the height of the pot so the roots stay in the top section mainly.
Does planting trees improve the soil quality in the area? The "theory" is that trees send out roots and shed their leaves to modify the soil in the long run...
Hi Ming! Yes, trees do improve soil - not only as you suggest by addition of organic matter, but also by soil microbes working co-operatively with tree or plant roots. It can be a powerful collaboration for the benefit of soil quality. Great question! - J&B's
Not only does rocks in the bottom cause what you talked about in this video it also causes overheating of the soil. I had some lantana in a pot in very heavy sunlight that was looking sad after being so pretty for a couple months figuring it was root bound I pulled it from the pot and the rocks were so hot that it was heating up the soil. So I never use rocks anymore in my pots.
Thanks for sharing! That is another negative effective we did not mention. Along with the drainage issues rocks should never be used at the bottom of a container.
In the video we are recommending how to avoid saturated soil and promote good drainage. French drains are used to capture excess water in areas prone to saturation and carry it away using pipe, gravel and filter fabric. A study of french drains reveals all the principles discussed in our video also pertain to french drains. French drains are real and perform best when constructed properly. The reality of french drains doesn't conflict with the principles of good drainage. - John
I have heard this from several of the lawn guys on UA-cam. I heard adding any kind of organic material to clay soil helps to loosen it as well. Like peat moss. I just tried it for the first time today actually. Hope it works!
Yes! Humic acid is helpful for improving clay soil. We recommend using that in tandem with other organic material that encourage life in your soil which will greatly improve your soil over time. Check out our video about softening clay soil to see the entire list of ingredients we recommend: ua-cam.com/video/_kk2-es9i9o/v-deo.html
Peat moss has some good attributes, but overall it's not that good for soil - not like a good quality compost. It tends to acidify soil, it breaks down quickly and it doesn't build complex soil life. There are much better ways to improve your soil! If you want to see what we recommend for improving clay soil I would recommend you watch this video we made: ua-cam.com/video/_kk2-es9i9o/v-deo.html Hope that helps! :)
Nice video Sir, how to avoid soil drainng out from the pot.
Good question! Use landscape fabric over the bottom of the pot and a few 3/4x11/2" Gravel over the drainage hole and over the landscape fabric. -John
Brilliant video. Not a lot of people understand this of backfilling with native soil and the inoculation process. Lots of people put there plant in organic matter. Lots of people has issues with root rot in containers and they thing it's water and not proper drainage etc. However it's actually too much organic matter in potting soil. I use sand in my containers and then I just put a small layer of home made compost on top of the soil and and cover it with leaves. My plants grow twice as fast in containers than at the nurseries around me because I just use sand in my containers. The roots are white and thick when I up pot it. So I love your video. 100%
Hi, can you explain exactly what you use? Sand mixed with soil? And then compost on top? Or just pure sand? Where do you live- hot or cold? And for all types of potted plants? What about blueberries in a pot? Thanks 😊
@@JennyThompson-iv1ot Hi there 😊. Lol I'm not professional, however I do have lots of success with my gardening. So I am actually from South Africa. We have a temperate Mediterranean climate. Hot summers and cold winters. However it's not the same as a subtropical region. But we can create micro climates where we can grow subtropical trees. So what I mean by the sand is basically just rhe typical dirt that you find in your yard if it's not clay soil. I don't mean white dead sand that's used in construction lol ( this dead white construction sand is great for storing tubers or root crops). So I just take sand in my yard, like the soil that is beneath your grass. I fill my container 3/4 of the way up with sandy soil while my plant is in the bucket. Then I add compost of any sort ( I make my own compost with food scraps or leaves and grass) Then I add that on top of the sand soil. I don't mix the compost into my sand. I just layer it on top. Then I add leaves on top or any mulch to cover that. When you water your plant. The water will take some of that compost and microbiology down into the sand and it will introduce microbiology into that sand if there is not any there. The compost will also feed any microbiology in that sand. So then the microbiology will feed your plants. The compost don't feed your plants. Many people think the compost feeds your plants, but it actually feeds the microbiology in the soil. The by product of the microbiology is what feeds the plants. What they produce is small enough for the roots to uptake. So this is why in a container or even in a garden, if compost is added as a top soil, you will see over time miraculously the compost will dissappear over time and more compost will need to be added. That's because the microbiology is eating the compost up over time slowly. So if there is no air, water, food for the microbiology then they will die. So if compost is added into the soil, then it creates an anaerobic environment where microbiology don't have oxygen to survive, and also roots will rot because they are suffocating in slimy decaying matter. So many people think that there plant died because they over watered. They see the roots turned black. But that's not the case. The roots suffocated because of the soil they are using. If you buy soil from a nursery or hardware, the soil is mostly compost. So people plant there plant in decaying matter lol. That's why you will see, in any forest, you find the roots of the tree grows in sand, while the leaves accumulate on top of the soil which breaks down. The leaves is decaying matter which which microbiology in the sand feed on. Then they feed the roots of the trees. Amazing isn't it. Lol I hope my message was clear and not confusing. I typed maybe too much that wasn't necessary and maybe you know all those things already lol. This works with any plant including blue berries. Sometimes if a plant lack something then you jut research what the plant might be lacking if the leaves does something or doesn't grow right. Then you just add it on top of the soil. Dont mix it into the soil. But any plant will grow with this strategy. You don't need to buy any additional products. People say that seedling trees needs years to grow before producing fruits. I grew Pomegranates from seeds and its in containers, not even in the ground. After 2 years a few of the trees started flowing. The flowers fell off because they are still young but they flowered just after 2 years and I use nothing special for my plants. I don't buy anything. I don't even buy soil or compost. I just use what I have if you don't have sand around your property. Lol find a park or a public field or some place where you can just scoop up some dirt to fill your containers. Just make sure your dirt is not 100% clay because that can hold way too much water and might suffocate your plants because the clay can become too compact after watering
Thank you that was interesting! I live in England and I don’t think of my native soil which the grass grows on top of as sand but rather as soil- because the texture of is soil-y rather than sandy. But there is one area around my house where there is sandy soil. It’s helpful to know that I can just dig up regular soil and then put a layer of compost on top. :) thank you for all of the information, it’s very much appreciated.
@@JennyThompson-iv1ot no problem. Im happy that my bit of knowledge could help someone else. Awesome. Sorry about the terms I used with regards to sand and soil. Lol I watch videos on youtube and I see many people use the terms interchangeably, so I'm not sure who understands sand as soil and soil as sand and some people even understand compost to be soil lol. So I I didn't know how to properly explain it. But you get it lol. So yes the native soil should just be dug up and put in a pot. As long as the native soil is not too compact and clay like. Then it will work beautifully. Clay soil is not too good in a container. It will make the roots rot because the clay compacts down too much. So if you have clay soil as native soil then rather mix a substrate like small tiny stones in your soil before you put it in the pot. That way it will help with drainage. But if your native soil is just nice normal soil. Then yes just dig that up and place in your pot and layer compost as top soil. I promise your plants will absolutely love it and you won't have to water as much because the soil will retain moisture where as a lot of store bought compost have a lot of wood chips or bark and other components that dry up and drain too quickly. The soil underground retains moisture and stays cool that's why trees in the ground if established might never have to be watered. So if we imitate nature, we will never be fooled by money making advertisements lol that fools us in spending so much money on things which is supposed to be free. Enjoy🙂
I hear you 🙂 thanks. With my blueberries, they’re going to need acid soil. I’ve got an acid soil mix and also some sulphur chips I can add which will slowly acidify the soil. So would that work as in acidifying the regular soil underneath? I made a mix of ericaceous, peat moss compost, and John innes seed compost, and my ph strip showed it’s still not quite within the perfect ph rang so hence why I’m planning to add sulphur. But I haven’t actually put the blueberries in there yet. Since reading your info I’m wondering about doing as you suggest but yeah I just don’t know anything about soil science so idk if the acid from the soil will transfer down in to the regular soil with time as you suggest?
I always thought gravel in the bottom of pots is good, thanks for the correct info.
You are most welcome! Luckily, it's an easy fix to remove the gravel if you currently have some in your pots :)
How about when you transplanting an olive tree to clay soil, will gravel at the bottom help with drainage?! Much appreciated
I cut landscape cloth to fit the bottom of a large planter. This is to decrease the amount of soil that might be carried away through the drainage hole.
Landscape cloth can eventually clog up as the soil breaks down. Try instead, a sheet of newspaper, or a thinly stretched layer of coco coir over the large holes of the pot. These materials will keep soil from falling out of a new transplant and allow water to drain. By the time the newspaper or coir break down, the plant's own roots have established enough to hold the soil.
You did a fine job combing that hair too! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world. It is very much appreciated here in Iowa ✌🏻
I see in your videos that you dig square holes for planting trees. Do you support the square vs round technique? Thanks again for more great information and debunking myths.
We do plant our trees in more square shaped holes to help encourage roots to grow into the native soil more - good eye!
Thank you so much for covering these myths!
Our pleasure! Thanks for watching :)
When it came to my mother and grandmother I think the gravel/ broken pots in the bottom sprang from wanting to b frugal. They were from the depression and i don't remember them throwing much away.
My grandmother did the same thing! 💚 There are some clever ways to reuse broken pots that don't negatively effect your drainage too :)
I’m in Florida and I have very dense clay soil, not typical clay, it’s like something you can mold into a vase or something. It’s got the consistency of silly putty! 😬 Am I doing the right thing by mixing in peat moss, into the clay soil to help break it up and help with drainage when planting new shrubs? I turned the soil several times adding in peat moss and then raking it together and spreading it out to allow the sun to remove some of the moisture. I did this about 3 times before planting my shrubs, and then adding a layer of mulch.
James, as I just responded in your other comment....peat moss has some good attributes but overall it's not that good for soil - not like a good quality compost! I would recommend using our Penetrate Liquid Bio-Tiller which is great at loosening up dense, problem soil. Then apply our Blend which works just like a good quality compost, infusing and encouraging life in your soil. If you have any other question please don't hesitate to ask :)
Can you cover this topic? Methods to get rid of invasive poison ivy & thorn bushes without harming other plants or trees?
That is a difficult one. We'll see if we can put something together! We appreciate your input :)
You're supposed to put different layers of stones sizes. Larger ones at the bottom and smaller as it goes to the top.
It's difficult to accept for many, but as described in our video, that is a myth!
Good to know I've been doing the right things.
Always nice to get some validation 😊🙌
Any thoughts on adding expanded shale into clay soils?
Here’s my issue. I have a row of arborvitae that I planted near my back fence for a privacy hedge. The issue is that the back fence is at the end of my yard where all the rain water drains to. Since my yard is sloped away from the foundation of my house. There’s no soil drainage whatsoever. My arbs have been dying due to wet feet and root fungal issues. I have tried to plant these mounded up and that doesn’t help. I can’t install a French drain since there’s no where else for the water to flow - it’s already at the lowest point on the property. I was considering using the gravel method, then landscaping tarp on top, and then backfill when planting on top of that.
Any idea or suggestions? Just fyi my soil is decent loam for 2 feet and then it hits clay.
A few thoughts re: your difficult situation. I consider implementation of 3 options in similar situations and sometimes I do all of them. I always use our Blend and our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller to improve the basic drainage of the soil. By your description I can tell this won't provide a 100% solution. Second, I see if I can install a simple drainage system using 3" solid drainage pipe to take water to a lower elevation. Even though the back of your lot slopes to your back fence it is possible that your back fence is still higher than your street or higher than some other location in your front yard. If so, we trench to provide a very small, gradual grade from the low spot in the back to the lower spot somewhere else in your yard. We then install drainage pipes and inlets strategically. Third, we consider dry wells filled w/ gravel at the lowest spots. Sometimes we dig these ourselves manually 5' deep or so and 2-3' wide or we hire a company like Big Bore who drills to sand and can line the massive hole with brick or fill the whole thing w/ gravel for 6-$8,000. per dry well. Those 3 options all work to varying degrees and I evaluate the benefits of each based on the specifics of the project.
so if you want to grow in a pot that DOES Have water retention in the bottom of pot so the roots can reach some water when you forget to water for a few weeks and is too hot there will be some water there in the pot and extend the height of the pot so the roots stay in the top section mainly.
In theory it sounds like it would work that way, however, few plants like water saturated at the bottom. It can cause roots to die.
Thank you for this very important info.
You are most welcome! Thanks for watching :)
I love your very informative videos.
Thank you
We love to hear it! Thanks for watching :)
Does planting trees improve the soil quality in the area? The "theory" is that trees send out roots and shed their leaves to modify the soil in the long run...
Hi Ming!
Yes, trees do improve soil - not only as you suggest by addition of organic matter, but also by soil microbes working co-operatively with tree or plant roots. It can be a powerful collaboration for the benefit of soil quality.
Great question! - J&B's
Very informing.
We appreciate the support! Glad to be of use 👍
Not only does rocks in the bottom cause what you talked about in this video it also causes overheating of the soil. I had some lantana in a pot in very heavy sunlight that was looking sad after being so pretty for a couple months figuring it was root bound I pulled it from the pot and the rocks were so hot that it was heating up the soil. So I never use rocks anymore in my pots.
Thanks for sharing! That is another negative effective we did not mention. Along with the drainage issues rocks should never be used at the bottom of a container.
Really interesting video Thank you 🇬🇧
Thanks for watching!
Helpful. Thank you
You are most welcome! Thanks for watching :)
Your statement of “adding sand to clay soil creates concrete” is a myth according to many soil experts.
No, depends on the sand and clay.
I guess that means French drains are a myth too then?
In the video we are recommending how to avoid saturated soil and promote good drainage. French drains are used to capture excess water in areas prone to saturation and carry it away using pipe, gravel and filter fabric. A study of french drains reveals all the principles discussed in our video also pertain to french drains. French drains are real and perform best when constructed properly. The reality of french drains doesn't conflict with the principles of good drainage. - John
That tree looks like a Loquat tree.
Does HUMIC ACID improve clay soil ?
I have heard this from several of the lawn guys on UA-cam. I heard adding any kind of organic material to clay soil helps to loosen it as well. Like peat moss. I just tried it for the first time today actually. Hope it works!
Yes! Humic acid is helpful for improving clay soil. We recommend using that in tandem with other organic material that encourage life in your soil which will greatly improve your soil over time. Check out our video about softening clay soil to see the entire list of ingredients we recommend: ua-cam.com/video/_kk2-es9i9o/v-deo.html
Peat moss has some good attributes, but overall it's not that good for soil - not like a good quality compost. It tends to acidify soil, it breaks down quickly and it doesn't build complex soil life. There are much better ways to improve your soil! If you want to see what we recommend for improving clay soil I would recommend you watch this video we made: ua-cam.com/video/_kk2-es9i9o/v-deo.html Hope that helps! :)
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