Next time you do that get the 1/4" tape go around that first then us the 3/4 " tape, use the 3/4" and stick it on the 1/4".by that way makes very nice corners. I have had 2 campers and both the people that owned them before would would try to make a clean look after less then a cover they smeared it on ,had to remove it and do it the right way.
I never use tape. I always point the tip of the caulk in the direction you are traveling with the caulk gun. You can keep the bead small and manage the flow better. You are doing the opposite. When you are traveling left to right you are pushing caulk out behind the direction the caulk gun is moving and caulk can flow all over the place.
Greg Macklem Basically you are pushing a puddle. You keep your eye in front of tip and if caulk is starting to get too far ahead of tip you slow down on squeeze of trigger to use up excess caulk as you are moving the caulk gun. If you don’t see any puddle under tip as you are moving caulk gun you need to slow down and squeeze harder as you are moving gun. The tip (cut off at angle) of caulk gun smooths the caulk as you are moving along. Just like welding - watch the puddle as you are pushing the tip.
Unfortunately dicor is a terrible product that just doesn’t last. Sikaflex 1a, tremco demonic fc or even gecel froflex are a much better option for these vertical non sagging situations. As with all caulking applications preparation is the key.
Nice Video..... Thanks. Any advice about bbqing on a grill under the roll-out awning? Ever had any bad experiences? Thanks for the help..... we love our Flagstaff 21DS
+Kenny A I do it and haven't had a problem. I even used the grill mounted to the side of the camper w/o problem. I put my hand between the camper and the grill and did not feel much heat at all.
You want an easier caulking that is good for this application try BIG STRETCH latex...as you lay it down you can dress it using water to smooth it and clean the overage...Ive used this for years on my homes and rv's...its easy and holds up well...www.amazon.com/Sashco-10016-10-5oz-10-5-Ounce-Cartridge/dp/B000H5OOPU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=big+stretch+caulk&qid=1561439776&s=automotive&sr=1-1-catcorr#customerReviews
What I want to know is what made you go to a Class C from a travel trailer ? I still don't know what I want yet.... A trailer or a class C or a class A... I will be going full time... Is a trailer to muck work to tow ? Scotty
+Scott Deney That is a tough question. I am not really sure myself. A class C is what I really wanted when I started in the camper/RV world. But I didn't want to go straight to a class C, I wanted to start small. So I started with a 21' TT, then moved to a 25' TT which is all my truck would tow, weight wise. Then I found the Sunseeker I wanted at the price I wanted and went to that. Ultimately, camping is about towing and setup/teardown. You either tow your camper or your camper tows your car. I think I enjoy driving the class C and towing my car (which I have only done once so far) more than I enjoy towing the camper. Also, a class C has a generator so we are now stopping to eat in the RV and can run the A/C while we do it. For setup/teardown, trailers are a lot of work. You have to deal with a weight distributing hitch, the tongue jack and the stabilizers. With my class C, I park it and hit the Bigfoot levelers. With either one you may want to use the leveling pads under the wheels. So setup and teardown is much easier and almost non-existent on a class C or A. Money wise, it can run about the same to get a good truck and TT as it would a class C and tow the car you already own. I hope to fulltime it myself someday. At that point, I am not sure if I will keep the class C or move to a class A. I think the class A or a 5th wheeler are the ultimate for long term living. But a class C isn't too bad either. I hope my rambling helps.
I can tell you as a full timer I have had a Class A and a fifth wheel and a Class C . This might help .It depends on if you intend to still work in Campgrounds or resorts .A lot of them do not allow you to be in a trailer(travel trailer not 5th wheel ) . And I have even been turned down in a Class C .I loved the Class A and a car pulled behind . It gives you an extra way to travel especially in emergencies. The filth wheel was great as we sat still working in one place for 4years .But not great for traveling and no extra vehicle in case of breakdowns .The Class C allows us to have a better access to getting fuel because most gas pumps are in the front of the places .And even in a Class C it is a hard turn . It also because of the shorter length let's us visit places that the other two can't go . But storage is a problem .And the quality is not the best no matter the name . Our next move will be a Class A small 30 ft because of storage and bigger generator and pull behind . Hope this helps and it is a hard decision . As you can tell by what we have had .
This is an old question, but I'll chime in because others may just be watching this. I use my RV to mainly go to the dunes ... so I pull an 18' trailer with quads/dirt bikes. I travel with teenagers. With a Class C (I also have a Sunseeker ... 30 ft) each of the kids has their own separate area and I have my own bedroom. I bought my Sunseeker when it was 10 yrs old and still love it. It's great to travel with kids/dogs for long distances due to moving around, getting snacks, bathroom breaks, kids watching movies, and general SPACE. I can drive for loooong distances at a stretch (as a single mom) and prefer that. My kids are trying to talk me into a toy hauler and I really prefer my Class C.
I just updated the description of my video to provide a link to Geocel flexible sealant on the sidewalls. Use that rather than the Dicor. I think it works better and lasts longer. If you want to use Dicor, then yes, use the non-leveling kind on the sidewalls. Use self-leveling on the roof.
6 min intro of wasted time, 26 mins video to show how to caulk. Speed it up Mister. Clean up with water and paper towel is no good! Use alcohol and a rag to prep surface. On the plus side, I did learn about Geocel, and that taping gives a clean caulk finish. Thanks for that!
Next time you do that get the 1/4" tape go around that first then us the 3/4 " tape, use the 3/4" and stick it on the 1/4".by that way makes very nice corners. I have had 2 campers and both the people that owned them before would would try to make a
clean look after less then a cover they smeared it on ,had to remove it and do it the right way.
Thanks for the video! Try the green automotive tape, you can bend it around corners.
Thanks, I will look for that.
I never use tape. I always point the tip of the caulk in the direction you are traveling with the caulk gun. You can keep the bead small and manage the flow better. You are doing the opposite. When you are traveling left to right you are pushing caulk out behind the direction the caulk gun is moving and caulk can flow all over the place.
Very interesting. Will have to try that next time. Thanks.
Greg Macklem
Basically you are pushing a puddle. You keep your eye in front of tip and if caulk is starting to get too far ahead of tip you slow down on squeeze of trigger to use up excess caulk as you are moving the caulk gun. If you don’t see any puddle under tip as you are moving caulk gun you need to slow down and squeeze harder as you are moving gun. The tip (cut off at angle) of caulk gun smooths the caulk as you are moving along. Just like welding - watch the puddle as you are pushing the tip.
Unfortunately dicor is a terrible product that just doesn’t last. Sikaflex 1a, tremco demonic fc or even gecel froflex are a much better option for these vertical non sagging situations. As with all caulking applications preparation is the key.
Man i died laughing when the tube burst...
It's funny when you look back on it.
15:06
Nice Video..... Thanks. Any advice about bbqing on a grill under the roll-out awning? Ever had any bad experiences? Thanks for the help..... we love our Flagstaff 21DS
+Kenny A I do it and haven't had a problem. I even used the grill mounted to the side of the camper w/o problem. I put my hand between the camper and the grill and did not feel much heat at all.
Thanks so much for your help!
I'm using geocel proflex RV and it sucks. Like flat-out sucks it'll crack after one drive. Maybe my RV joints have too much movement I don't know
Sorry to hear that. Mine has held for a couple years now and still going strong. It is doing much better than the lap sealant did.
You want an easier caulking that is good for this application try BIG STRETCH latex...as you lay it down you can dress it using water to smooth it and clean the overage...Ive used this for years on my homes and rv's...its easy and holds up well...www.amazon.com/Sashco-10016-10-5oz-10-5-Ounce-Cartridge/dp/B000H5OOPU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=big+stretch+caulk&qid=1561439776&s=automotive&sr=1-1-catcorr#customerReviews
Since the manufacturer usually uses silicon on those things, did you have any issues with the Dicor sticking to it?
Rob Man Not so far, it is holding well.
Thanks, I may do that myself instead of trying to remove all of that silicon.
hi did you try it without removing the silicone ?
I think you did a good job!
What I want to know is what made you go to a Class C from a travel trailer ? I still don't know what I want yet.... A trailer or a class C or a class A... I will be going full time... Is a trailer to muck work to tow ? Scotty
+Scott Deney That is a tough question. I am not really sure myself. A class C is what I really wanted when I started in the camper/RV world. But I didn't want to go straight to a class C, I wanted to start small. So I started with a 21' TT, then moved to a 25' TT which is all my truck would tow, weight wise. Then I found the Sunseeker I wanted at the price I wanted and went to that.
Ultimately, camping is about towing and setup/teardown. You either tow your camper or your camper tows your car. I think I enjoy driving the class C and towing my car (which I have only done once so far) more than I enjoy towing the camper. Also, a class C has a generator so we are now stopping to eat in the RV and can run the A/C while we do it.
For setup/teardown, trailers are a lot of work. You have to deal with a weight distributing hitch, the tongue jack and the stabilizers. With my class C, I park it and hit the Bigfoot levelers. With either one you may want to use the leveling pads under the wheels. So setup and teardown is much easier and almost non-existent on a class C or A.
Money wise, it can run about the same to get a good truck and TT as it would a class C and tow the car you already own.
I hope to fulltime it myself someday. At that point, I am not sure if I will keep the class C or move to a class A. I think the class A or a 5th wheeler are the ultimate for long term living. But a class C isn't too bad either.
I hope my rambling helps.
+Greg Macklem Thanks... that helped
I can tell you as a full timer I have had a Class A and a fifth wheel and a Class C . This might help .It depends on if you intend to still work in Campgrounds or resorts .A lot of them do not allow you to be in a trailer(travel trailer not 5th wheel ) . And I have even been turned down in a Class C .I loved the Class A and a car pulled behind . It gives you an extra way to travel especially in emergencies. The filth wheel was great as we sat still working in one place for 4years .But not great for traveling and no extra vehicle in case of breakdowns .The Class C allows us to have a better access to getting fuel because most gas pumps are in the front of the places .And even in a Class C it is a hard turn . It also because of the shorter length let's us visit places that the other two can't go . But storage is a problem .And the quality is not the best no matter the name . Our next move will be a Class A small 30 ft because of storage and bigger generator and pull behind . Hope this helps and it is a hard decision . As you can tell by what we have had .
This is an old question, but I'll chime in because others may just be watching this. I use my RV to mainly go to the dunes ... so I pull an 18' trailer with quads/dirt bikes. I travel with teenagers. With a Class C (I also have a Sunseeker ... 30 ft) each of the kids has their own separate area and I have my own bedroom. I bought my Sunseeker when it was 10 yrs old and still love it. It's great to travel with kids/dogs for long distances due to moving around, getting snacks, bathroom breaks, kids watching movies, and general SPACE. I can drive for loooong distances at a stretch (as a single mom) and prefer that. My kids are trying to talk me into a toy hauler and I really prefer my Class C.
Like the tape idea...
hi .is it the dicor lap sealant non leveling non sag your using for the seams ? thanks
I just updated the description of my video to provide a link to Geocel flexible sealant on the sidewalls. Use that rather than the Dicor. I think it works better and lasts longer. If you want to use Dicor, then yes, use the non-leveling kind on the sidewalls. Use self-leveling on the roof.
"Wheres the money Labowski?!" The Dude spent it on an RV.
6 min intro of wasted time, 26 mins video to show how to caulk. Speed it up Mister.
Clean up with water and paper towel is no good! Use alcohol and a rag to prep surface.
On the plus side, I did learn about Geocel, and that taping gives a clean caulk finish. Thanks for that!
Lol