Hey guys! Links to tools and parts in the description! Timestamps: 0:00 Intro 0:35 Service Spec Chart 2:15 Test Old Timer Base 3:13 Test New Timer Base 4:25 How Outboard Ignition Systems Work 7:20 Flywheel Magnets 8:09 Outro
I don't know if you realize what a treasure trove of common sense knowledge you are. My grandfather, an electrical and microwave troubleshooter for a major oil company, always said anyone can fix things, but the key to doing the fixing things properly is being able to diagnose the problem. Your videos are a joy to watch because of your logical trouble shooting from your accumulated knowledge.
Hello Matt, thanks for the great videos on the Evinrude outboard motors! I have a 1988 XP 150 that is giving big problems! Will not go under load,hard to start, and when it does start hard to keep running. I have had this motor from new and have not had too many problems until now. I guess it is time. I have the shop manual and going through the checks on the stator, it was giving some weird readings on ohms and voltage. I bought new stator and after pulling the flywheel off one of the magnets had come unglued and closed the gap between the next magnet. The magnet was not damaged so I epoxied it back making sure the gap was the same as the others. I felt sure I had found the problem but the 2 power packs have never been replaced so I ordered both and replaced. I checked the timer coil and the ohms were all about the same but low(12 ohms). My manual said it should be 40 plus or minus 10 ohms? I have one on order now, I am hoping the problem will go away.Not sure about the WOT timing setting on the water, hopefully I can get it running good enough to get on plane with the new parts. It is like you said these things are not easy to troubleshoot! B O A T stands for Break Out Another Thousand! It is true in my case!
Hey Matt. Thanks for these helpful videos on outboard timing. Have you ever considered showing how to do a video about how to set Evinrude high speed ignition timing using the "Joe Reeves Method" which doesn't require the boat to be in the water with a test wheel?
Good video, technical info was spot on and easy to understand. Your explanation of the complete ignition voltage, firing and timing was a cut above most videos. Cudos
just a heads up: much easier to do a cranking voltage test with the timer base installed on the motor. a voltage test tells you all you need to know ie. if its putting out less than .3v, chances are the resistance tests will be off as well, but not always and not the other way around which is why i cut to the voltage test right away on the sensor coil, and then the charge coil. if both are good and the kill wire is fine (no voltage), then its the pack with a no spark condition.
I am hoping that RI stands for Rhode island. I've been messing with a 93' Evinrude 70. Have spark at each plug, having an issue with bogging down after 2000 rpm or so. I've cleaned carbs, checked them again and made sure floats are good. Replaced power pack, and have the timer base (might not be needed after running the DVA tests). Replaced the VRO pump with a normal fuel pump, seems to be getting fuel where it needs to go. Found a wire in the harness of the stator (kill wire black/yellow) was not fully connected. Repinning it and hoping that it fixes the problem. IF it doesn't I'm out of ideas. I thought it was ignition, but maybe its fuel. Going to link and sync after my harness fix. If it persists, seems like a lean condition, or something is heating up and not able to keep the timing/spark at higher rpms. Any ideas?
Once again coming in clutch as ever with the amazing content if they were still in business they should have sponsored you man cdi should at least. thank you once again
Thanks for this video.. I was out on lake when my 1983 90hp evinrude was at wide open throttle and suddenly I lost half my power.. I got the boat out a couple days I go to start it and no spark at all. I changed all spark plugs and coils nothing.. tested the stator with omhs test and it’s good.. got new rectifier and nothing.. disconnected kill switch no luck.. just checked timer base and omhs are within specs.. don’t know where to check now I’m lost
hi. Matt Thank you for posting a very interesting video. I have a question. The Johnson 140 horsepower [J140TLESE] engine I own doesn't exceed 3000 rpm at the initial operation. However, once the engine has been preheated, it works as normal intermittently. Does this have anything to do with the timer base as well?
On my Johnson 150hp V6, both sides show 11.5ohms following this step (white to each of the colors.) Does this mean my trigger/timer base is bad? I have intermittent loss of spark on cyl 1 & 2 I’m not sure if both power packs went bad or if it’s my trigger/timer. Please help 🙏🏽
@@MattsShop well here goes I have a 1986 Johnson GT 150 it is only firing on the port side I swapped the power packs but it was still the same only fired on the port side I'm assuming it's got to be either the stator or the timer base but I am definitely not sure
That's some good diagnostics, maybe multiple problems, too many people just replace everything, then it still doesn't work. There's still wiring that could be the problem.
My motor 1985 johnson 115 v4 . The trigger doesn't move when the flywheel running. I try to move by hand , It is moves but a little hard . Can you tell me what is wrong ? . Thank you
Can anyone see what the setting on that multi meter is on? I'm testing one and it's reading .044 ohms on 2k and .062 on the setting with the alarm for continuity that seems really low to me and not really in a situation I can buy a 300 dollar part that I can't return need to make sure I'm testing it right
Was it still sparking but just not at the correct timing? If I advance my timer base all the way forward it will start momentarily but not stay running. I should probably just replace the dang timer base. Ps. I already paid someone to replace the power pack and stator lol. So like what have you seen actually happening when the timer base actually is bad. No start condition or bad running condition?
Yea, I wouldn't risk it. If the timer base is the last old part left then you could replace it. Yup, not starting and misfiring are problems that can happen.
the timer base cannot trigger the pack AND have incorrect timing. the timer tells the pack when to release its stored voltage ie. the pack will not fire if the timer base isnt sending a .3v or higher signal to the pack.
So motor just seems like it’s not getting fuel. If I’m only at like 92psi on compression could it be that the vacuums not strong enough to pull fuel into the combustion chamber?
If you have low enough compression the outboard will never run right. 92 PSI is pretty low. What engine do you have? Was the compression on all cylinders within 10% of each other?
@@MattsShop yeah they’re all between 90 and 95. It’s run for like 10 seconds and died. Only other thing I though was the carbs aren’t right. But I though that seemed pretty low for compression and maybe that’s my dying out issue like I said not pulling enough fuel or something. But it’s a 94 Johnson 140hp V4
Hey guys! Links to tools and parts in the description!
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
0:35 Service Spec Chart
2:15 Test Old Timer Base
3:13 Test New Timer Base
4:25 How Outboard Ignition Systems Work
7:20 Flywheel Magnets
8:09 Outro
I don't know if you realize what a treasure trove of common sense knowledge you are. My grandfather, an electrical and microwave troubleshooter for a major oil company, always said anyone can fix things, but the key to doing the fixing things properly is being able to diagnose the problem. Your videos are a joy to watch because of your logical trouble shooting from your accumulated knowledge.
Thank you for such an awesome comment! That's what my channel is all about, solving problems. Your grandfather was right!
Whoa. I remember liking this when it was new. 2 years ago. Thanks man .
Thanks, you're welcome.
Hello Matt, thanks for the great videos on the Evinrude outboard motors! I have a 1988 XP 150 that is giving big problems! Will not go under load,hard to start, and when it does start hard to keep running.
I have had this motor from new and have not had too many problems until now. I guess it is time.
I have the shop manual and going through the checks on the stator, it was giving some weird readings on ohms and voltage. I bought new stator and after pulling the flywheel off one of the magnets had come unglued and closed the gap between the next magnet. The magnet was not damaged so I epoxied it back making sure the gap was the same as the others. I felt sure I had found the problem but the 2 power packs have never been replaced so I ordered both and replaced. I checked the timer coil and the ohms were all about the same but low(12 ohms). My manual said it should be 40 plus or minus 10 ohms? I have one on order now, I am hoping the problem will go away.Not sure about the WOT timing setting on the water, hopefully I can get it running good enough to get on plane with the new parts.
It is like you said these things are not easy to troubleshoot!
B O A T stands for Break Out Another Thousand! It is true in my case!
Any luck on the motor? I have one from about the same year and I'm just getting into fixing it.
Hey Matt. Thanks for these helpful videos on outboard timing. Have you ever considered showing how to do a video about how to set Evinrude high speed ignition timing using the "Joe Reeves Method" which doesn't require the boat to be in the water with a test wheel?
Good video, technical info was spot on and easy to understand. Your explanation of the complete ignition voltage, firing and timing was a cut above most videos. Cudos
Thanks man! Glad you enjoyed it!
You r the best man i can watch all day
Awesome information brother I sure appreciate it your a smart man
You're welcome! You are too.
just a heads up: much easier to do a cranking voltage test with the timer base installed on the motor. a voltage test tells you all you need to know ie. if its putting out less than .3v, chances are the resistance tests will be off as well, but not always and not the other way around which is why i cut to the voltage test right away on the sensor coil, and then the charge coil. if both are good and the kill wire is fine (no voltage), then its the pack with a no spark condition.
You are right. I should have showed a cranking voltage test first and then this test second.
I am hoping that RI stands for Rhode island. I've been messing with a 93' Evinrude 70. Have spark at each plug, having an issue with bogging down after 2000 rpm or so. I've cleaned carbs, checked them again and made sure floats are good. Replaced power pack, and have the timer base (might not be needed after running the DVA tests). Replaced the VRO pump with a normal fuel pump, seems to be getting fuel where it needs to go.
Found a wire in the harness of the stator (kill wire black/yellow) was not fully connected. Repinning it and hoping that it fixes the problem. IF it doesn't I'm out of ideas. I thought it was ignition, but maybe its fuel. Going to link and sync after my harness fix. If it persists, seems like a lean condition, or something is heating up and not able to keep the timing/spark at higher rpms. Any ideas?
Once again coming in clutch as ever with the amazing content if they were still in business they should have sponsored you man cdi should at least. thank you once again
You're welcome man. I appreciate all your awesome comments!
Thanks for this video.. I was out on lake when my 1983 90hp evinrude was at wide open throttle and suddenly I lost half my power.. I got the boat out a couple days I go to start it and no spark at all. I changed all spark plugs and coils nothing.. tested the stator with omhs test and it’s good.. got new rectifier and nothing.. disconnected kill switch no luck.. just checked timer base and omhs are within specs.. don’t know where to check now I’m lost
hi. Matt
Thank you for posting a very interesting video.
I have a question. The Johnson 140 horsepower [J140TLESE] engine I own doesn't exceed 3000 rpm at the initial operation. However, once the engine has been preheated, it works as normal intermittently. Does this have anything to do with the timer base as well?
It could. The timer base is always has to rotate freely or else it will do stuff like that. Maybe it rotates easier once it warms up?
On my Johnson 150hp V6, both sides show 11.5ohms following this step (white to each of the colors.) Does this mean my trigger/timer base is bad?
I have intermittent loss of spark on cyl 1 & 2 I’m not sure if both power packs went bad or if it’s my trigger/timer. Please help 🙏🏽
Hello Matt, thank you for the video. I was wondering how to read- open215-225 verses the 15-50 readings? I have 1996 Johnson 200 . Thank you
I bought a new timer, trigger stater, and the thing still not fallen. What else should I do?
What's wrong with it? The symptoms?
Absolutely love your Channel do you answer questions in the comments or just post videos because I could definitely use some help
Thanks! I try my best to answer questions.
@@MattsShop well here goes I have a 1986 Johnson GT 150 it is only firing on the port side I swapped the power packs but it was still the same only fired on the port side I'm assuming it's got to be either the stator or the timer base but I am definitely not sure
My magnets are all good for the stater and trigger I cleaned the magnets off, which sandpaper they was already in good shape very fine sandpaper
can this test be performed while on the motor but plugs unplugged ?
Yes, that's when I normally do it. Don't crank it like that it can shock you.
That's some good diagnostics, maybe multiple problems, too many people just replace everything, then it still doesn't work. There's still wiring that could be the problem.
Yea, it had multiple problems for sure.
My motor 1985 johnson 115 v4 . The trigger doesn't move when the flywheel running. I try to move by hand , It is moves but a little hard . Can you tell me what is wrong ? . Thank you
My magnets are all good for the stater and trigger
Hello American
My rectifire breaks two years in a row, what can case this to happen??
They normally get too hot and over-heat.
Thanks for the information 👍
You bet!
Can anyone see what the setting on that multi meter is on? I'm testing one and it's reading .044 ohms on 2k and .062 on the setting with the alarm for continuity that seems really low to me and not really in a situation I can buy a 300 dollar part that I can't return need to make sure I'm testing it right
Thanks for that.
You bet!
How do you test the magnets?
You don't. As long as they are glued on the flywheel well, and not cracked they are good!
Was it still sparking but just not at the correct timing? If I advance my timer base all the way forward it will start momentarily but not stay running. I should probably just replace the dang timer base. Ps. I already paid someone to replace the power pack and stator lol.
So like what have you seen actually happening when the timer base actually is bad. No start condition or bad running condition?
Yea, I wouldn't risk it. If the timer base is the last old part left then you could replace it. Yup, not starting and misfiring are problems that can happen.
the timer base cannot trigger the pack AND have incorrect timing. the timer tells the pack when to release its stored voltage ie. the pack will not fire if the timer base isnt sending a .3v or higher signal to the pack.
So motor just seems like it’s not getting fuel. If I’m only at like 92psi on compression could it be that the vacuums not strong enough to pull fuel into the combustion chamber?
If you have low enough compression the outboard will never run right. 92 PSI is pretty low. What engine do you have? Was the compression on all cylinders within 10% of each other?
@@MattsShop yeah they’re all between 90 and 95. It’s run for like 10 seconds and died. Only other thing I though was the carbs aren’t right. But I though that seemed pretty low for compression and maybe that’s my dying out issue like I said not pulling enough fuel or something. But it’s a 94 Johnson 140hp V4
🔥
You want to hear something crazy mine was bad I took a magnet run around the inside of it put it back on and it started working crazy
When are you going to start rebuilding the tractor?
I work on it everyday.
No videos?
The reason I ask is I have to rebuild my yanmar 2000 this winter.