Thanks - that's very kind. As long as people watch, I'll try my best to make these things make sense. Except for the stuff that doesn't make sense - like why I'm doing this in the first place!
When your at the point you have that wood piece, here is what I do very often. Lay down something like clear packing tap on the hood. Mix some body filler and spread a nice coat on the template and gently push it onto the hood in it's correct position. When the body filler is still green pop it off and the excess can be removed with a chisel, razorblade, or whatever works for you. When the filler is green it works like cutting a firm piece of firm cheese . You can let it completely cure at this point and just kiss it on the sander. You can also let it fully cure and go straight to the sander and remove the excess. I personally work it green 85% 0f the time. I can't tell you how often I have used this method over the years, it has worked very well for me on many very diversified projects. Your wood template only needs to be remotely close because the body filler will give you a 100% accurate template. Bye the way, the body filler won't stick to the tape so no need to mess with release agents. Hope you give it a try on your next project, I think you'll loke the results. Love your videos, I always enjoy them.
You are showing us techniques that we can use for other projects. I am currently trying to make a stainless steel sump guard and this video is giving me ideas.
Great - that's why I do the work. When it comes to some of these techniques, I've found it difficult to find complete in formation that would give me confidence to try. I hope this helps.
The surest, most proven, never fail way to find something that you own, but simply can’t find, is make or buy another one. You are almost guaranteed to find your hood trim now! I’m not a Volvo guy, but GREAT video, man!
@@ThrottleStopGarage I was impressed with how well the bog in the jig heldup. Maybe you don't need a machined jig just fix the profile to a solid bit of plate and redo the bog.
@@NathanNostaw I was sure where I hit it with the cut off chisel it would be damaged and it's fine. The new dies (just got them) have a metal base to help with stretching. I'll still be using the filler to make the profile.
HI THERE, JUST FOUND YOUR CHANNEL. VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO, AND REALLY LIKE THE WAY YOU DESCRIBE THE WAY YOU DO THINGS WITH REGARD TO YOUR PROJECTS. WILL DEFINITELY WATCH PART 2 OF THIS PROJECT. I HAVE HIT THE LIKE BUTTON AND HAVE ALSO SUBSCRIBED TO YOUR CHANNEL. TAKE CARE THERE ... CHEERS FROM CHILL FROM DOWN UNDER IN AUSTRALIA...
Try welding a large ball berring to the end of a tool bit. Varrying the size will help you work smoothly through any radius. You can also use a super strong magnet and a large berring like an English wheel. Just make a delrin cover for the magnet so it doesn't mar the surface finish. I'd recommend HDPE instead or maybe nylon because of the lower friction coefficient.
Couple of things you might look at. The worked parts 'Springyiness' is work hardening, so you might try annealing the part at the mid stage to help deal with it. Stainless doesnt anneal as easily as mild steel and aluminum, but it may buy you a tighter working radius before cracking. Especially at the far ends of the piece. How are you going o form the lip that resides against the bodywork? If rollling it under or hammerforming it as an additional process doesn't work; you might consider TIGing round stock to the inside edge such as some TIG rod itself. I look forward to seeing your solutions.
I was wondering if that was the issue. I can get it to anneal easily enough (I think). I was going to be lazy and weld some 3/32" TIG wire to the base and call it good.
I would have just thrown some marine varnish on the wood when I got the shape right, surely a gateway project for my fever dream of an Amazon-based 1949 Ford style 2-door slant back woody.
It's really not any harder than shown. Hammer forming is pretty satisfying when you can form a shape that is impossible/difficult to do with other methods.
When Wray hammer forms into some tight areas, I have seen him use a Delrin tool that has a chisel tip with rounded edges. You might want to give that a try
Excellent point. I was just thinking that the force on a small round end would be quite high and that the rounded chisel would even that out. I'll have to go dig through his videos to find an example.
I was thinking another way might be to build a 4 X 4 X 4-inch block, run a round channel down the center. Take one of your Delron tips, shape it like a chisel, and run a strip of stainless between the two. A little work and you should be able to put double curves into it.
I would make the same piece out of solid aluminum stock that you made out of wood. You can buff the aluminum part to shine like chrome, and tap the underside for your mounting studs in minutes. Since it’s a stand alone trim piece, the slight variation of polished chrome vs. polished aluminum would be indistinguishable. It would save you many hours and should deliver better results.
Sure...where's the fun in that? I've buffed a lot of aluminum and the original is a stamped aluminum piece that is bright anodized. I'm making a few for friends and I want this in stainless.
“I’ll refer to of that frequently repeated comment among us metal fabricators, “When it comes to metal shaping, there can be a dozen ways to achieve the same end result.” I build pre-war race car bodies for a living. In my case I don’t need to have fun making a part, I only need to get good results quickly to meet deadlines. I throughly enjoy your videos by the way.
Man, thats a LOT of work. I feel for you! If the OEM part is aluminum, can't you cast and work the part in aluminum? Or purchase the OEM part from Volvo and rework it to meed your specs?
I don't want an aluminum part and that's what the stock part is - they just bright anodize the part. They get sand pitted and don't fit very well. I've got a few parts that I have to make, so better to do the learning now on the small part than on the larger parts.
I've got labelled bins and I can usually just grab the part and go...I looked for a solid day. I have no doubt that I'll find it as soon as I'm not looking for it.
Are you for hire? I have a 1 of 1 1937 project Im working on, It’s similar to the 1929 Auburn Cabin Speedster and the front windshield has an odd shape, Ideally id like it to be brass but I could definitely live with S.S.
@@curtisvonepp4335 I know - wait for the next silly project. I've had trouble finding good quality chrome plating (have found a company) I figured by the time this is done the cost will be about the same.
@@ThrottleStopGarage i live in Los Angeles County California where's everything under the sun in our world of need you might check out the ones here they might be in Canada under Automotive plateing .CHEERS
"the nature of the shape" is a genius way to verbalize it. You are describing the mechanics of art and it is inspiring. Great videos lately!
Thanks Marc - having a little fun with projects that are not killing spirit. Forward motion is good.
@@ThrottleStopGarage momentum is infectious..! 😜
You sir are a madman the level of detail you give us is epic and thank you for sharing your really enjoyable content
Thanks - that's very kind. As long as people watch, I'll try my best to make these things make sense. Except for the stuff that doesn't make sense - like why I'm doing this in the first place!
When your at the point you have that wood piece, here is what I do very often. Lay down something like clear packing tap on the hood. Mix some body filler and spread a nice coat on the template and gently push it onto the hood in it's correct position. When the body filler is still green pop it off and the excess can be removed with a chisel, razorblade, or whatever works for you. When the filler is green it works like cutting a firm piece of firm cheese . You can let it completely cure at this point and just kiss it on the sander. You can also let it fully cure and go straight to the sander and remove the excess. I personally work it green 85% 0f the time. I can't tell you how often I have used this method over the years, it has worked very well for me on many very diversified projects. Your wood template only needs to be remotely close because the body filler will give you a 100% accurate template. Bye the way, the body filler won't stick to the tape so no need to mess with release agents. Hope you give it a try on your next project, I think you'll loke the results. Love your videos, I always enjoy them.
Great tip...wish I had it before I started carving. Would have saved a bit of time.
Every second of that was a pleasure to watch.
I’ve got my Throttle Stop Garage T-shirt in primer grey.
Thanks - much appreciated!
Enjoyed every minute of your journey!
Awesome, thank you!
You know, now I click « thumb-up » on you video before watching 😁
Thanks - that's very kind.
You have the patience of a saint. Kudos to you for your work, it's on a biblical scale👏
Thanks.
You are showing us techniques that we can use for other projects. I am currently trying to make a stainless steel sump guard and this video is giving me ideas.
Great - that's why I do the work. When it comes to some of these techniques, I've found it difficult to find complete in formation that would give me confidence to try. I hope this helps.
Very good job!!
Thank you!
The surest, most proven, never fail way to find something that you own, but simply can’t find, is make or buy another one. You are almost guaranteed to find your hood trim now!
I’m not a Volvo guy, but GREAT video, man!
Thanks. Every damn time.
Impressive results for the setup and jigs. Good on you for having a go. I'd be carving one from alluminium.
We're not out of the woods just yet. We'll see how it all turns out.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I was impressed with how well the bog in the jig heldup. Maybe you don't need a machined jig just fix the profile to a solid bit of plate and redo the bog.
@@NathanNostaw I was sure where I hit it with the cut off chisel it would be damaged and it's fine. The new dies (just got them) have a metal base to help with stretching. I'll still be using the filler to make the profile.
Deserves way more subs!
Awe - thanks!
The car is gonna be sweet
I sure do hope so - none of this "in the shop out of the shop job always half finished and not quite ever done" stuff...
@@ThrottleStopGarage thats how some of my projects are ☺
Very helpful for me as some trim pieces for my car are impossible to find an no one reproduces them. Many thanks.
Very glad to hear this video was helpful.
23:23, you have my full attention, Sir. Onto the weird panels of my Austin A35. To the Man Cave!
LOL. Have fun.
you are a genius
LOL - well, stubborn.
Informative and Inspiring all at the same time.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another great episode!
Thanks - this project has been a joy so far. Lots of learning.
HI THERE, JUST FOUND YOUR CHANNEL. VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO, AND REALLY LIKE THE WAY YOU DESCRIBE THE WAY YOU DO THINGS WITH REGARD TO YOUR PROJECTS. WILL DEFINITELY WATCH PART 2 OF THIS PROJECT. I HAVE HIT THE LIKE BUTTON AND HAVE ALSO SUBSCRIBED TO YOUR CHANNEL. TAKE CARE THERE ... CHEERS FROM CHILL FROM DOWN UNDER IN AUSTRALIA...
Thanks 😊
Great info
Glad it was helpful!
Definitely interesting, definitely masochism
True...so true. Looking forward to the weekend and my next attempt.
Try welding a large ball berring to the end of a tool bit. Varrying the size will help you work smoothly through any radius. You can also use a super strong magnet and a large berring like an English wheel. Just make a delrin cover for the magnet so it doesn't mar the surface finish. I'd recommend HDPE instead or maybe nylon because of the lower friction coefficient.
Interesting idea. I'm going to try a chisel shaped Delrin end first, but I'll give this a try if it doesn't work.
For a test piece that was looking good already. 👍
Yup - just needed an hour of flattening out the mess I made.
You're a patient man! Another awesome effort... and yes, I'm waiting for Ghia parts too :-)
LOL - everyone is waiting for parts! You know it's bad when the VW stuff is in short supply.
Couple of things you might look at. The worked parts 'Springyiness' is work hardening, so you might try annealing the part at the mid stage to help deal with it. Stainless doesnt anneal as easily as mild steel and aluminum, but it may buy you a tighter working radius before cracking. Especially at the far ends of the piece.
How are you going o form the lip that resides against the bodywork? If rollling it under or hammerforming it as an additional process doesn't work; you might consider TIGing round stock to the inside edge such as some TIG rod itself.
I look forward to seeing your solutions.
I was wondering if that was the issue. I can get it to anneal easily enough (I think). I was going to be lazy and weld some 3/32" TIG wire to the base and call it good.
I would have just thrown some marine varnish on the wood when I got the shape right, surely a gateway project for my fever dream of an Amazon-based 1949 Ford style 2-door slant back woody.
It's really not any harder than shown. Hammer forming is pretty satisfying when you can form a shape that is impossible/difficult to do with other methods.
When Wray hammer forms into some tight areas, I have seen him use a Delrin tool that has a chisel tip with rounded edges. You might want to give that a try
Excellent point. I was just thinking that the force on a small round end would be quite high and that the rounded chisel would even that out. I'll have to go dig through his videos to find an example.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Wray used it in the Caddy panel part 2. It was hand held, about 2/3 through the video. Good luck experimenting!
@@roberthowe321 Thanks - that's going to save me a lot of time. Off to watch the master.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Sometime I would like to visit Wray (the Master). He is only about a hour from my house
@@roberthowe321 I'd like to do a course one day. The trick is getting the time.
I was thinking another way might be to build a 4 X 4 X 4-inch block, run a round channel down the center. Take one of your Delron tips, shape it like a chisel, and run a strip of stainless between the two. A little work and you should be able to put double curves into it.
That's an option - but it's a lot more stretch than doing it in two halves.
@@ThrottleStopGarage little or no welding too
I would make the same piece out of solid aluminum stock that you made out of wood. You can buff the aluminum part to shine like chrome, and tap the underside for your mounting studs in minutes. Since it’s a stand alone trim piece, the slight variation of polished chrome vs. polished aluminum would be indistinguishable. It would save you many hours and should deliver better results.
Sure...where's the fun in that? I've buffed a lot of aluminum and the original is a stamped aluminum piece that is bright anodized. I'm making a few for friends and I want this in stainless.
“I’ll refer to of that frequently repeated comment among us metal fabricators, “When it comes to metal shaping, there can be a dozen ways to achieve the same end result.” I build pre-war race car bodies for a living. In my case I don’t need to have fun making a part, I only need to get good results quickly to meet deadlines. I throughly enjoy your videos by the way.
It's suspiciously funny, that your hood trim looks like a hockey stick.
We can blame that shape on Sweden. It does look a little like a field hockey stick...great, now I can't un-see that. LOL.
It’s a good thing we graybeards have children to take over our unfinished projects when we pass on. 😁
LOL - OK, that's funny.
Man, thats a LOT of work. I feel for you! If the OEM part is aluminum, can't you cast and work the part in aluminum? Or purchase the OEM part from Volvo and rework it to meed your specs?
I don't want an aluminum part and that's what the stock part is - they just bright anodize the part. They get sand pitted and don't fit very well. I've got a few parts that I have to make, so better to do the learning now on the small part than on the larger parts.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Understood, say no more. Your only doing what Volvo should have done!
@@kentmckean6795 Well, I'm trying. Still haven't got one welded yet. That'll be fun.
I see take 3-4 coming 🤪🤪🤪 ECU please seriously consider Haltech Nexus. Clean wiring no fuses PDM and ECU in one.
I've considered Haltech. Going another direction.
Did you look under the TV in the spare room, I'm sure its there..
Of course you will find the trim when you go looking for the next thing.
I've got labelled bins and I can usually just grab the part and go...I looked for a solid day. I have no doubt that I'll find it as soon as I'm not looking for it.
Brown aviation and Aircraft tools in riveting section at some very conservatively priced tools For hammer forming
I'll check them out - thanks.
You have a 3D printer, have you considered using it here? At least for the wood pattern: with a 3D scan of the hood, it would be pretty easy
Didn't think about it. I just went with the simplest method.
Stop calling it a test piece!! :D Looks like a finished part already :D
Keep up the great work!
Thanks - I'm just about to start the metal dies. We'll see how it all works.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Looking forward to it!
If you are like me, you will find the trim after you finish making the new piece. lol
100% without question. And it will make sense that I put it there for some very good reason.
One tips is not use 304 use 316L instead is much easier to work with
I didn't know that - I've got blanks cut for the finished part in 304 - so we'll give it a whirl and see what happens.
Great job , but for this job make it out of aluminum and polish it. But it is a great job .
There's always a fall back option.
Are you for hire?
I have a 1 of 1 1937 project Im working on, It’s similar to the 1929 Auburn Cabin Speedster and the front windshield has an odd shape, Ideally id like it to be brass but I could definitely live with S.S.
Sorry - I'm not a professional. I just build these things for myself.
@@ThrottleStopGarage That’s a bummer seems you have what it takes…
Hello,
Our company would like to invite you to try our products, how can I get in touch with you?
You can find me on Instagram.
You might try next time use aluminum when your part is to your liking send it to be chromium plater
If needed - hoping it works.
@@ThrottleStopGarage aluminum is used on most trim lighter and easy to work with just a suggestion
@@curtisvonepp4335 I know - wait for the next silly project. I've had trouble finding good quality chrome plating (have found a company) I figured by the time this is done the cost will be about the same.
@@ThrottleStopGarage i live in Los Angeles County California where's everything under the sun in our world of need you might check out the ones here they might be in Canada under Automotive plateing .CHEERS
You could make it for dirt cheap out of cast aluminum, and polish it to a chrome finish
Not to repeat myself...I can BUY an aluminum piece from the manufacturer. The idea is to do it properly once.
You’re mad.
Little bit.