@@Dust2LivingSoil lol right! thanks for sticking through, I do the same on many others videos.. ironically this is a “shortcut” method. The way I see it, this is the foundation that hold up the house so it’s worth the watch..
@@rogueregenerativeagriculture absolutely I actually quite enjoyed watching it, because when I first got into all this three years ago I thought to myself well if people are making a IMO and it’s this big long process that I didn’t at that time I understand why can’t I just make JMS and then pour the liquid on a substrate and then monitor the temperature and grow it out and so I did that a few times and it honestly works great and so looking at this video it’s essentially doing the same thing it’s just a slight rendition. That’s a cool Part about all of this it’s all just a little additives here or there you don’t necessarily need them but we can build up on the foundation.
Perfect timing for me on the video, thanks Preston! I was going to make a JADAM Mircobial solution for my clients mini food forests. I'm going to make a pile of this too to add in. I spray my arborist chip wood piles with the JADAM solution and get huge fungal patties a couple months later. I add into peoples yards as fungal plugs.
Seems I accidentally cultivated some of these cultures in our forest in Escondido by making rings of tree mulch covered in oak leaves around our oak trees here in Escondido, interesting technique here with adding barley! Thanks for the tutorial
You should always carrry water when you harvest fungi, when you disturb for harvesting you soak it in good water on the same place so fungi can redevelop quickly in humid enviornment.
Great video and thank you for demonstrating the correct process. I would add a few wraps of Teflon tape to the threads of your adjustment knob to stop it from unscrewing during use. Pine sap and sawdust might work too and be more natural.
Look into the horrible untold story of Teflon. You won’t recommend it anymore. It’s one of the biggest ecological disasters of the turn of the century.
This was a really helpful and informative video. Your experience with the pile consistently edging above 130 is similar to what I struggle with at my garden in the Santa Monica mountain range. Do you always just apply this IMO 3 to the soil or do you also make IMO 4? Also, can you share where you sourced your grains?
I was born in Santa Monica, respect. Grains are from my local feed supply store. Nothing special. I’ve used many types of grains and they all work when miilled down. I do make imo 4 and 5 but if I have a project that needs to be inoculated I will use the 3 while continuing to process 4-5. Imo 3 and limo tea work great without added steps. The whole impetus for sharing this approach was using less step than regularly taught by KNF teachers.
In my experience, the best way is to turn the pile every 24 hours. But the pile should be in a place where it keeps the moisture and getting dry slowly, like in a greenhouse for example. The best is if you make it dark! Covered with leaves. The mycelium will go crazy every 24 hours! You will see bricks of mycelium every time you turn the pile! If the weather is to dry and windy, you can wetting the pile with a spray when you turn it.
A specific time frame for turning is not as important as keeping the temp in the correct temp zone. Temps tend to fluctuate based on available food for the microbes, air and water balance, and ambient temp. Yes, a greenhouse can be a nice place for making piles for sure, protecting from rains and holding humidity and temp as well. This pile was made intentionally under a large oak for dappled light. I’m cautious about adding more water to the pile during the process because you can get such extreme spikes, but I will if it’s extremely hot and dry. This pile rendered some nice aggregate. You can still culture nice IMO inoculant without seeing large chunks of aggregate but it’s fun to see in the pile. Cheers..
@@rogueregenerativeagriculture I see. What I meant to say is that if the pile has the correct proportion of carbon and nitrogen, and the correct initial humidity, you should expect to turn it every 24 hours with the ideal temperature and with the mycelium growing like crazy. To achieve this result, it is important that the pile is in the dark! For any fungus culture, be it edible mushrooms, etc... during the mycelial development phase, a dark environment is essential. And it is best that it is protected from dry and hot winds, so that the pile does not dry out and cool down prematurely, as you would have nitrogen-consuming fungi, which are the first in succession. If the pile is drying out too quickly, one person can water it with a spray while the other turns the pile. Using a spray is essential to avoid having wet spots.
@@seuvagem1950 In my experience the best piles w/ the most aggregate are only turned 2 or 3 times through the whole process, it’s not an exact interval when you turn , as the pile heats up and slows down, temp. Is rising and falling. Always in flux. I wouldn’t turn the pile at all if I was maintaining 120 F. during the process. It is not nitrogen as a food source for fungi in IMO, it is the carbohydrates from the grain. I did put leaves over the pile and made it in dappled light in the shade of a tree. Dappled light is best not Total dark and air flow is key. Stick to what works for you, this pile turned out great and I am sharing the subtleties that have worked for me.
Awesome clip! I would like to incorporate your techniques with biochar. Any thoughts? Would you wait until the process is complete and then blend raw or active biochar? Can you add it at the very beginning? Many thanks, I learned a bunch.
I'm a big fan of Biochar! Yes the quick answer is add some biochar to your IMO piles. Here is a video I made for more ideas. ua-cam.com/video/WobH9liL58w/v-deo.htmlsi=Q-GBrFxhmYpeaeFS
What other grain products would work instead of barley? Just curious if there are similar options, or not! I am in Arizona and things DRY OUT like crazy, do you suggest using a fine mist to keep the pile moist? GREAT CHANNEL and content - I appreciate the time it takes you to teach us. I'm the new guy in the front row.
Any grains will work with carbohydrates contained within them, It's important those carbohydrates are made available as a food source through milling & malting, or other processes. I recommend adding a little more water upfront and not adding water along into the process because temps can spike all over the place. I live in So-Cal in a desert climate much of the year, not far from the AZ border.
@@WineGiftBoxMaker Sure thing, Check out my video on JMS Jadam Microbial Solution in the JADAM playlist for using your potatoes for culturing microbes.
with those heat waves and partial direct sunlight in a dry climate, does it make sense to add some more water after turning to maintain moisture content and moderate temps, or is moisture loss not enough?
@@groditi Great question. No direct light was hitting the pile, just dappled as the pile was cultured under a large oak tree. My recommendation is to add a little more water on the front end and maintain a steady consistent temp rather than adding water on the back end. Could you add water if it completely dries out and you’re seeing no action? yes..
@@miramirez3574 Indigenous micro organisms. A technique of culturing soil microbes (primarily indigenous fungi) in the top soil of our local ecosystems. The process and methodology for culturing IMO was developed and taught by Master Hankyu Cho from South Korea.
@@jameslanenga7915 great question. A friend of mine in Humboldt county used his spent brew grain to make bokashi which is similar. Would be a great experiment for sure. You just need enough residual sugars left over for culturing.
I was wondering the same as a homebrewer. I'd be willing to bet that spent grain works. Brewers are mostly interested in converting the starch to sugar and collecting that to feed their yeast. Plenty of sugar is probably left in the spent grain. If you've ever left it for a day before disposal, you can smell that some bacteria still like it after it's spent
Indeed I did a video on that process as well (Shelf Stable JMS). It will be very different cultures than leaf mold IMO method. They both take about the same amount of time and resources. Alternating between the two is an excellent way to build diversity.
@@rogueregenerativeagriculture very cool, how long has that pile taken to finish? Thanks a lot, now I'm convinced I'll start right ahead, no need for buying expensive stuff from a store anymore ☺️
My native trees never make that much leafs tho , i think the worms eat them about as fast as they drop, and i got alot of trees and old trees , mostly large oaks and pine trees, but barely any leafs on the ground.
Great info! I'll be honest... 2 years ago I tried something kind of like this with whole oats. They ended up germinating and a lot of them holding to the ground 😅 Is wheat bran a viable option? Do you have to apply that imo asap or can you store it? Keep up the good work!
Nice, whole grains will likely germinate, I've seen this happen as well which can add enzymes to the mix, however you want to mill at least 60% of the grain before culturing so the sugars and carbs are available for IMO'S to eat. Yes wheat bran is great for a substrate.The beauty of dry inoculants are, they are shelf stable, but I would only store them for up to 6 months and make a new batch.
Imagine I have mostly degraded fields? ... That i want to make productive in a shorter time. Could I "MAKE" large 1-2 inch disturbance, soak hole grains to sow a cover crop? Then terminate that with a mowing left on soil before a cold winter? Or let the termination by cold ?In order to plant in spring?
Interesting idea. Germinate and terminate a cover crop before cold months is what I'm hearing. Yes indeed you can do that for extra biomass. Add this inoculant along with it..
@@2BitRanch There are cheaper mills out there. Over time it will pay for itself. As I mentioned in the video you can use millrun but it’s not as available so you will have less efficacy.
@@iamwendyiam yes! I’m downwind from 3 large fires currently burning. Ash on plants this morning. Sending prayers to those who have been evacuated and those who’s homes are being threatened🙏
This is way simpler and fail proof. I wonder why master cho choose to teach the more complicated method. Maybe he feared that people would over harverst the leaf mold?
@@boopyondasnooty thanks for you input, long format is for those with longer attention spans. This video is doing just fine: there is an art to getting good imo collections, it’s not as simple as scooping up dirt, that’s what I was documenting here. An hour to get it right will save you a lot of money on store bought inoculants.
Glad to see that you paid homage to Master Cho and his son. Lots of folks seem to be acting like they created it on there own.
@@David-fd9cr Respect where it’s do. 🙏
That was a great video, I think it’s pretty funny nowadays I’ll gladly watch about someone making soil for an hour.
@@Dust2LivingSoil lol right! thanks for sticking through, I do the same on many others videos.. ironically this is a “shortcut” method. The way I see it, this is the foundation that hold up the house so it’s worth the watch..
@@rogueregenerativeagriculture absolutely I actually quite enjoyed watching it, because when I first got into all this three years ago I thought to myself well if people are making a IMO and it’s this big long process that I didn’t at that time I understand why can’t I just make JMS and then pour the liquid on a substrate and then monitor the temperature and grow it out and so I did that a few times and it honestly works great and so looking at this video it’s essentially doing the same thing it’s just a slight rendition. That’s a cool Part about all of this it’s all just a little additives here or there you don’t necessarily need them but we can build up on the foundation.
Perfect timing for me on the video, thanks Preston! I was going to make a JADAM Mircobial solution for my clients mini food forests. I'm going to make a pile of this too to add in.
I spray my arborist chip wood piles with the JADAM solution and get huge fungal patties a couple months later. I add into peoples yards as fungal plugs.
Your very welcome.. Nice, I too like to hose down wood chip piles W/ JMS to charge and prep them for use..
Awesome video.
.... Greetings From San Diego Mt Helix
much thanks
I have been harvesting all of my leaves in the fall for a couple years. I do not throw away. Need to study more of the Korean culture ideas.
Great.. yes keep the leaves around it's natures gift.. mulch is so important...
Great video and platform for teaching and learning of truly natural living
Thank you.. Gratitude makes me want to give more..
I am currently obtaining a degree in Agroforestry. Happy to have found your channel. Keep up the good work!
Excellent.. What a great field to choose, congrats..Thank you and count on that.
Great stuff as always. Love the shirt you put on for the video!
Seems I accidentally cultivated some of these cultures in our forest in Escondido by making rings of tree mulch covered in oak leaves around our oak trees here in Escondido, interesting technique here with adding barley! Thanks for the tutorial
You should always carrry water when you harvest fungi, when you disturb for harvesting you soak it in good water on the same place so fungi can redevelop quickly in humid enviornment.
Great video and thank you for demonstrating the correct process. I would add a few wraps of Teflon tape to the threads of your adjustment knob to stop it from unscrewing during use. Pine sap and sawdust might work too and be more natural.
Look into the horrible untold story of Teflon. You won’t recommend it anymore. It’s one of the biggest ecological disasters of the turn of the century.
@Dust2LivingSoil ill do that, thank you.
Nice work Preston! Lmk if you gave time to talk this fall. Looking forward to catching up, Vito!
thanks
This was a really helpful and informative video. Your experience with the pile consistently edging above 130 is similar to what I struggle with at my garden in the Santa Monica mountain range. Do you always just apply this IMO 3 to the soil or do you also make IMO 4? Also, can you share where you sourced your grains?
I was born in Santa Monica, respect. Grains are from my local feed supply store. Nothing special. I’ve used many types of grains and they all work when miilled down. I do make imo 4 and 5 but if I have a project that needs to be inoculated I will use the 3 while continuing to process 4-5. Imo 3 and limo tea work great without added steps. The whole impetus for sharing this approach was using less step than regularly taught by KNF teachers.
In my experience, the best way is to turn the pile every 24 hours. But the pile should be in a place where it keeps the moisture and getting dry slowly, like in a greenhouse for example. The best is if you make it dark! Covered with leaves. The mycelium will go crazy every 24 hours! You will see bricks of mycelium every time you turn the pile! If the weather is to dry and windy, you can wetting the pile with a spray when you turn it.
A specific time frame for turning is not as important as keeping the temp in the correct temp zone. Temps tend to fluctuate based on available food for the microbes, air and water balance, and ambient temp. Yes, a greenhouse can be a nice place for making piles for sure, protecting from rains and holding humidity and temp as well. This pile was made intentionally under a large oak for dappled light. I’m cautious about adding more water to the pile during the process because you can get such extreme spikes, but I will if it’s extremely hot and dry. This pile rendered some nice aggregate. You can still culture nice IMO inoculant without seeing large chunks of aggregate but it’s fun to see in the pile. Cheers..
@@rogueregenerativeagriculture I see. What I meant to say is that if the pile has the correct proportion of carbon and nitrogen, and the correct initial humidity, you should expect to turn it every 24 hours with the ideal temperature and with the mycelium growing like crazy. To achieve this result, it is important that the pile is in the dark! For any fungus culture, be it edible mushrooms, etc... during the mycelial development phase, a dark environment is essential. And it is best that it is protected from dry and hot winds, so that the pile does not dry out and cool down prematurely, as you would have nitrogen-consuming fungi, which are the first in succession. If the pile is drying out too quickly, one person can water it with a spray while the other turns the pile. Using a spray is essential to avoid having wet spots.
@@seuvagem1950 In my experience the best piles w/ the most aggregate are only turned 2 or 3 times through the whole process, it’s not an exact interval when you turn , as the pile heats up and slows down, temp. Is rising and falling. Always in flux. I wouldn’t turn the pile at all if I was maintaining 120 F. during the process. It is not nitrogen as a food source for fungi in IMO, it is the carbohydrates from the grain. I did put leaves over the pile and made it in dappled light in the shade of a tree. Dappled light is best not Total dark and air flow is key. Stick to what works for you, this pile turned out great and I am sharing the subtleties that have worked for me.
Awesome clip! I would like to incorporate your techniques with biochar. Any thoughts? Would you wait until the process is complete and then blend raw or active biochar? Can you add it at the very beginning? Many thanks, I learned a bunch.
I'm a big fan of Biochar! Yes the quick answer is add some biochar to your IMO piles. Here is a video I made for more ideas. ua-cam.com/video/WobH9liL58w/v-deo.htmlsi=Q-GBrFxhmYpeaeFS
What other grain products would work instead of barley? Just curious if there are similar options, or not! I am in Arizona and things DRY OUT like crazy, do you suggest using a fine mist to keep the pile moist? GREAT CHANNEL and content - I appreciate the time it takes you to teach us. I'm the new guy in the front row.
Any grains will work with carbohydrates contained within them, It's important those carbohydrates are made available as a food source through milling & malting, or other processes. I recommend adding a little more water upfront and not adding water along into the process because temps can spike all over the place. I live in So-Cal in a desert climate much of the year, not far from the AZ border.
@@rogueregenerativeagriculture thanks, I also grow an abundance of sweet potatoes and am looking for ways to use the flour I make in soil building
@@WineGiftBoxMaker Sure thing, Check out my video on JMS Jadam Microbial Solution in the JADAM playlist for using your potatoes for culturing microbes.
with those heat waves and partial direct sunlight in a dry climate, does it make sense to add some more water after turning to maintain moisture content and moderate temps, or is moisture loss not enough?
@@groditi Great question. No direct light was hitting the pile, just dappled as the pile was cultured under a large oak tree. My recommendation is to add a little more water on the front end and maintain a steady consistent temp rather than adding water on the back end. Could you add water if it completely dries out and you’re seeing no action? yes..
Define imo? New listener
@@miramirez3574 Indigenous micro organisms. A technique of culturing soil microbes (primarily indigenous fungi) in the top soil of our local ecosystems. The process and methodology for culturing IMO was developed and taught by Master Hankyu Cho from South Korea.
just a question could you swap out the raw barley for used brewery hops and barley or has all the good stuff been used up in the brewing process
@@jameslanenga7915 great question. A friend of mine in Humboldt county used his spent brew grain to make bokashi which is similar. Would be a great experiment for sure. You just need enough residual sugars left over for culturing.
I was wondering the same as a homebrewer. I'd be willing to bet that spent grain works. Brewers are mostly interested in converting the starch to sugar and collecting that to feed their yeast. Plenty of sugar is probably left in the spent grain. If you've ever left it for a day before disposal, you can smell that some bacteria still like it after it's spent
Storing JMS on bran is amazing. SESE. No need to waste time, inputs, or labor :) Diversity is key
Indeed I did a video on that process as well (Shelf Stable JMS). It will be very different cultures than leaf mold IMO method. They both take about the same amount of time and resources. Alternating between the two is an excellent way to build diversity.
my autism, I get to decide the obsession!
Same bro 😂
Microbes say thank you for not tilling me
indeed..
So you can actually do your pile in the winter while it's cold? I thought that wasn't possible?
Oh and btw., a very nice video, I will definitly try!
I was already searching for a way of skipping IMO 1 & 2y thank you very much!
@@julianspiegler8252 ya most definitely it’s possible.. just keep it dry, I’ve done piles under a hoop house w/ a foot of snow on the ground outside.
@@rogueregenerativeagriculture very cool, how long has that pile taken to finish?
Thanks a lot, now I'm convinced I'll start right ahead, no need for buying expensive stuff from a store anymore ☺️
@@julianspiegler8252 that’s the spirit!
In colder zones the pile can take a month to finish. Typically around 2 weeks is common.
My native trees never make that much leafs tho , i think the worms eat them about as fast as they drop, and i got alot of trees and old trees , mostly large oaks and pine trees, but barely any leafs on the ground.
No worries, use what you have.
Great info! I'll be honest... 2 years ago I tried something kind of like this with whole oats. They ended up germinating and a lot of them holding to the ground 😅
Is wheat bran a viable option?
Do you have to apply that imo asap or can you store it?
Keep up the good work!
Nice, whole grains will likely germinate, I've seen this happen as well which can add enzymes to the mix, however you want to mill at least 60% of the grain before culturing so the sugars and carbs are available for IMO'S to eat. Yes wheat bran is great for a substrate.The beauty of dry inoculants are, they are shelf stable, but I would only store them for up to 6 months and make a new batch.
Imagine I have mostly degraded fields? ... That i want to make productive in a shorter time. Could I "MAKE" large 1-2 inch disturbance, soak hole grains to sow a cover crop? Then terminate that with a mowing left on soil before a cold winter? Or let the termination by cold ?In order to plant in spring?
Interesting idea. Germinate and terminate a cover crop before cold months is what I'm hearing. Yes indeed you can do that for extra biomass. Add this inoculant along with it..
The mill is quite expensive. Have you used other substrates? Would crimped oats be broken enough or wheat bran? Or a mix?
@@2BitRanch There are cheaper mills out there. Over time it will pay for itself. As I mentioned in the video you can use millrun but it’s not as available so you will have less efficacy.
Hey bro why is it the notification button disabled.
Hmm Idk, you can’t get notifications? I’ll look into that.
looks a little smokey there
@@iamwendyiam yes! I’m downwind from 3 large fires currently burning. Ash on plants this morning. Sending prayers to those who have been evacuated and those who’s homes are being threatened🙏
We can call leaf mold IMO-0
@@wiseeternalserpent Yes, I like that..
This is way simpler and fail proof. I wonder why master cho choose to teach the more complicated method. Maybe he feared that people would over harverst the leaf mold?
Talaşmı ekledin?
Have time, lol.
the hour long video with 10 minutes rummaging the woods talking about the same thing isnt going to help the channel grow. just sayin
@@boopyondasnooty thanks for you input, long format is for those with longer attention spans. This video is doing just fine: there is an art to getting good imo collections, it’s not as simple as scooping up dirt, that’s what I was documenting here. An hour to get it right will save you a lot of money on store bought inoculants.