⭐ Other Videos You May Find Interesting: Power Outlet Not Working - Easy Fix: ua-cam.com/video/GETyRTWUOSk/v-deo.html 10 Ways to Splice/Reconnect Wires: ua-cam.com/video/ihpNCVk1lF0/v-deo.html 3 Ways to Bend PVC Pipe With No Tools: ua-cam.com/video/T-Q5otcs0f8/v-deo.html Top 5 Furnace Problems and How to Fix Them: ua-cam.com/video/T4IWtKy--Vk/v-deo.html Top 5 A/C Problems and How to Fix Them: ua-cam.com/video/GOXgdnRB840/v-deo.html Furnace Parts and Functions Explained: ua-cam.com/video/gN-UIr6824w/v-deo.html A/C Parts and Functions Explained: ua-cam.com/video/pJ8KeJFKDMM/v-deo.html
The bonus footage was sooo important because it literally confirmed my suspicions of a breaker I’m dealing with it’s not that the other information wasn’t as important but that little bit did it for me and I can go straight to the source of my problem with confidence thank you!
All good info. Only things I would mention for anyone watching, is to stick with the breakers rated for your panel. Yes GE, Homeline, BR, and others will interchange and work just fine, but if they are not specifically listed for that specific panel I could see an issue in the event of fire or other insurance related event. Also, not a big fan of any power tools (impact driver) when tightening electrical screw terminals, especially in a panel. Over-tightening a screw can be just as bad as under-tightening. Breakers are receptacles have rated torque values and it's often lower than people would think.
I’m in HVAC school and we’re having the heating exam coming up this week so I’ve been binging all you heating vids and they’ve been helping a ton. They are really reinforcing all the small things I missed in class and I feel a lot more confident now. You have definitely earned my subscription. Btw, my instructors post a lot of your videos on our canvas page for us to watch.
Great to hear that the videos have been helpful, thank you for the comment! Good luck in school, become a legend out there!! And that's awesome! Love it! I am honored that some of the videos are good enough to even be shared by your instructor. 👍👍
Not an electrician, but am an electrical engineer. Please make sure you are using insulated gloves and insulated hand tools when working on electrical panels, live or not. It only takes a small accident to become seriously injured or worse, and many household tools are insulated to 1000v and would work fine in this instance. The 240v coming in on your main from the distribution transformer can absolutely kill you, and it's still live at the top of the panel even when you turn off the main (unless you have an exterior disconnect). Stay safe!
Hi Jay. I’m a subscriber. I really enjoy your videos and you “dad humor “. As someone who has done plenty of electrical work (not an electrician), I keep up with codes to the best of my ability. NEC code requires that the terminations in electrical panel, seps or sub-panels be torqued to manufacturer’s specifications. The simplest way is to first connect the wire with a screwdriver or low torque drill. Next using a torque screwdriver, apply the correct amount of inch lbs as listed on the breaker. Now you can insert the breaker and flip it to the on position. In this senecio you can buy a much cheaper torque screwdriver. Look up the prices and you’ll see that. Trust me that’s simply the best way to avoid under or over torquing. Both can cause serious problems. Stay safe!
I wanted to add a 30 amp breaker under the panel for a portable generator. Electrician wanted $1,500. After watching a few UA-cam videos I realized how easy it really was. All done for less than $200 in parts. Just waiting on interlock to arrive.
Another excellent video! Very clear and detail with step by step explanation and demonstration. Thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge and experience! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
"It's about raisin awareness." Gotta love the dad jokes! lol Didn't have hot water a couple years ago - looked at the breaker and it was on (even pushed on it). I figured it was time to replace the elements so made the drive on sketchy, winter roads to the box store 10 miles away and picked up a couple of replacements. When I got home and prepared to replace them, for giggles, I did an off/on flip on the breaker and I could hear it kick on! A few minutes later, I had hot water! Not sure what happened or why ... but it's been working fine ever since. I'll give the tapping tip a try and maybe think about replacing the breaker. Thanks!
Yes you can save money by doing it yourself but that money could also be needed for your funeral costs or permanent disability instead. Is your life worth more than a couple hundred bucks?
A very good and educational D I Y video. Electric circuits are about power percentage. A 19.2 Amp rating on a 2-pole 25 Amp breaker is ok. The 25 amp 2 pole breaker may cost more than a 2 pole 30. I replaced the heating element in an A O Smith water heater. I was amazed that a 2 pole 20 Amp breaker had run the water heater for years. The owner did not want to buy the proper breaker. I am waiting for a call to return someday soon when the hot water stops working again lol
20 amp is good for water heater. continuous load require 1.25Xrated current however continuous load is defined as run continuously 3hr+, therefore 20 amp is good for most of the time. note that per inspection wise, X1.25 in breaker selection is necessary.
The breakers were GE and Square D ( not HO). The “ hooks are anchored on a BUS bar. My comments are to say, Hi great video. FYI I worked for a major hardware store in the electrical department. Yes, it can be scary to work with electrical however, safety and caution is always best to follow. Great video.
Homeline ("HO") IS Square D ...you need to brush up on how to identify breakers sir. Also, you must NEVER, EVER, install ANYTHING other than the specific type AND BRAND in any panel, especially on the high current double pole types for water heaters, ranges, dryers and air conditioners. I have seen way too many damaged panels and serious fires caused by "handymen" and especially plumbers and HVAC hacks using the wrong type. (40 yrs. electrician.)
per continuous load, times 1.25. hence in your case, 18.8x1.25 is the breaker size. the closest available breaker is 25 amp so 25 is optimum。however since 25 amp breakers are less common in the market, 30 amp ones are always found in similar cases
Thanks Ben!! It's looking like this year will be the last year I am in the lead though. 😄 Congrats on your explosive growth bro!! Keep making more videos on the topics that performed the best for you. 👍👍👍 The rate you are going at, you should hit 500k by the end of next year. That's pretty sweet man. You're good at what you do, God bless you in all your future ventures!
First time watching your video and I really liked the way you approached the topic, quick and detailed. If there was one suggestion I could make, the focus keeps shifting to the closest object on the screen and that is sometimes very disorienting. If you shot a little wide, or shifted to the manual focus on your phone, it will not shift focus on your intermittently.
Thank you!! I appreciate the suggestion! I am actually using a nice camera but obviously dont know how to use it well.. It focusing on the wrong things really irritates me too, I've been trying my best to fix that in later videos. By taking a wide shot, do you mean zooming out and not filming so up close and then zoom in manually while editing the video?
Thanks for sharing .. what causes these to break since you really dont ever touch these. ? do they have a spring in them that just wears out and snaps . one of mine keeps tripping for some reason so i need to replace it and see if that is what the problem is
You should torque the circuit breaker screws to the correct setting, usually written on the breaker somewhere. I see an unmarked (to black) white wire connected as a hot wire to the breaker also.
Try your pot on a different circuit first. If the pot trips the other GFI then its your pot. If not its your GFI. Be sure your GFI is rated correctly though.
While watching your good video, I noticed that since you have a sub-panel, (Main panel is outside) the original installer, rather than install a ground bar, took out the bar that ties the two neutral bars together. In the top left you have a 2P 50Acb. On the ground bar, it looks as though the white, possibly neutral was landed on the ground panel incorrectly. Also, I could not tell if the bonding jumper was installed from the now ground bar to the back can.
First of all, thanks so much for such a simple to follow, thorough video. It was incredibly helpful for my first circuit breaker replacement. Although I'm hoping you can at least point me in the right direction as what to do next. My dryer went out. Checking the outlet with the multimeter first, I found that one of the legs didn't read on the multimeter. Then I went in the box. Checking the breaker, it didn't read anything at all. So I think it's the breaker and replace it. Problem is it still doesn't read anything on the multimeter. Is it time to call an electrician? Thanks again!
Sorry to hear about the breaker troubles! So on one side of the circuit breaker you are not getting 120v coming out? Are you measuring to neutral or to ground? What if you try taking out the air conditioner breaker and put that in instead? Still the same problem? Perhaps a loose or disconnected wire then? Keep the dryer unplugged while doing this too. Until you make sure that the breaker is putting out 240v. Just some thoughts I got when reading your comment, hope that gives you some ideas to look into. Good luck!
Just curious, I thought White is always a Neutral wire, in your case, it looks like its a 240V circuit and it is using a Black and White cable for 2 Hot Legs. Thank you.
Literally every home project I do the first time, I make AT LEAST one mistake which is fine because I can usually just redo it or buy a part to replace. Thats how we learn. The one thing you cannot do is make a mistake with high voltage. You can be killed or crippled for life and this will affect your whole family. This is a good educational video but it's definitely worth it to have a licensed electrician do this if you are untrained. Your life is worth more than the hundred bucks or so it will cost to have an electrician do this for you. And I am not an electrician btw.
Me also. I had to learn to fix around my home because everyone was charging what I felt was excessive, like $425 to replace a $300 microwave. I came to UA-cam and switched it out myself in 2 hours. I have time but not money like that. Now I'm going to replace my fuse 🤞
I have a question jay so I have a 30amp for my hot water heater when the old heater was token out it was leaking at the heat elements and water was evey where then it made a pop electrical spark so should i change my breaker for new one .?
Sorry, not much I can help with without being there but here are the normal things you would check: 1. Ensure the breaker is properly aligned with the busbar slots. Even a slight misalignment can prevent it from snapping in. 2. If the busbar has been damaged, it might not be able to provide the necessary grip for the breaker to snap in securely. How does the bar under that breaker look compared to other ones? You may need to bend it slightly with a pair of pliers if it looks different. 3. The new breaker itself could be damaged, preventing it from fitting correctly. Take a look again at the latches. Nothing shaved off or broken? 4. Double-check that the new breaker is compatible with your panel. Some brands or models have specific requirements and even if they look the same, the just don't work. It's annoying to have to go get another one but another thing to do is to simply try a different brand.
I have a question. If the hook on the bottom accidentally breaks, is it still OK? I don't have alot of money to replace it. I am slowly changing out the old ones with new ones.
You should not be using a power tool on the breaker. You also are supposed to torque the screws to proper torque. Per NEC. (Listed on the breaker). Otherwise a nice video.
Technically, it should be a 25 amp breaker but a 30 is used out of convenience most of the time. ( Typical element draw on a water heater is 18 amps.... multiply the load by 125% , per code, and it's 22.5 amps using the next size up breaker giving you a 25 amp breaker). Another commonly oversized breaker is the well pump breaker.....same logic and math results in a 15 amp breaker which should be used instead of the commonly used 20 amp breaker.
Can you turn the breaker box back on with the breaker out? Meaning, taking the breaker to say Lowe's to check for a replacement. Can I just wrap the breaker wires with electrical tape?.
I cut a piece of cardboard to friction fit between the panel side and just cover the main lugs . That reduces my chance of an errant touch. Also , you can use gas line rubber hose to slide over any screwdriver shanks that are bare metal.
Hi Jay, I follow some of your videos, and it's really great. My question is do you have any regular job or are you working for yourself as HVAC/Electrician or working for a company in Hawaii?
First time ever seeing one of your videos and it's the first time I'm going to try to replace my own breaker. Running through the comments now I'm a little bit scared!! I feel like I need to have (the electricians equivalent to) a beekeeper's suit on!! Dang. Can I feel confident and lost at the same time still? Yup There's one breaker for most of the kitchen and the garage. Every single day when I go to use the microwave I have to cross my fingers that it doesn't trip the 15. I'm wondering if I can take it to 20?? But maybe the 15 is floppy so I need to check that first. I guess it would be safe to put a 15 on first. It's a big over the stove microwave and I've been here 9 years without any issues until now. I haven't added any appliances recently so I'm only assuming it's the breaker. So my question is, could the microwave itself be starting to break and cause surges of some type? I wouldn't think so but I was just wondering if you have any suggestions or questions or information.
There may be some instances where you may not be able to turn off power to the whole building, especially in commercial applications, you have to work with a live panel and just have that one breaker off Not saying that it's right but sometime we have to do what needs to be done
It's a 240volt line so in north America we have split phase power. 120v from each leg to ground or 240v to each other. A standard 120v breaker would be half the size with just one terminal. GFCI/ and arc fault breakers typically monitor the ground/neutral of each circuit, so they will.have two terminals.
replaced my inside breaker for my outside ac condenser unit after I had no amps at the outside breaker of the unit. Inside breaker keeps tripping immediately. Even if I pull the outside breaker it still flips immediately. Need advice asap! Frustrating!
That sounds like it may be a short in the condenser unit. I would suggest starting with this video: ua-cam.com/video/G1EBHrOgs-Q/v-deo.htmlsi=G9KIFYLEkPnSf1mY
@@WordofAdviceTV I did all of that and everything checked out. I believe the problem is between the inside breaker box and the outside breaker box. The breaks trips when i have that plug pulled. Any further suggestions?
@@Steve-rc4np Ah, that's a tough one. Hopefully it's not a short somewhere right in the middle, inside the wall. Have you tried disconnecting the wires at the disconnect box to see if the breaker still trips even with the wires disconnected? I would take the cover off the breaker panel and the disconnect box and investigate as much of the wires as I can see, disconnecting all of them, then one at a time to see if it makes a difference. If I still can't find anything, then at this point I would probably be recommending an electrician.
I replaced a breaker where I worked, and I used an ampclamp meter and found the breaker didn't hold rated amperage. I always turn off each circuit before the main myself.
Others mentioned already, but there is no master disconnect evident here - is this a subpanel, so all power might be turned off coming in? All his casual work with the breaker replacement, is around a live circuit, and once the breaker's out, that bus bar is exposed and hot. All it takes is something contacting the neutral, ground, or box wall with a screwdriver slipping, or similar, and a short can occur in a second. I hate to see those live main lines totally uncovered, when there are plastic covers readily available now which at least give a layer of protection.
⭐ Other Videos You May Find Interesting:
Power Outlet Not Working - Easy Fix:
ua-cam.com/video/GETyRTWUOSk/v-deo.html
10 Ways to Splice/Reconnect Wires:
ua-cam.com/video/ihpNCVk1lF0/v-deo.html
3 Ways to Bend PVC Pipe With No Tools:
ua-cam.com/video/T-Q5otcs0f8/v-deo.html
Top 5 Furnace Problems and How to Fix Them:
ua-cam.com/video/T4IWtKy--Vk/v-deo.html
Top 5 A/C Problems and How to Fix Them:
ua-cam.com/video/GOXgdnRB840/v-deo.html
Furnace Parts and Functions Explained:
ua-cam.com/video/gN-UIr6824w/v-deo.html
A/C Parts and Functions Explained:
ua-cam.com/video/pJ8KeJFKDMM/v-deo.html
I'm an electrician of 55yrs---you did a good job----Jim
Wow. 55 years is incredible!! Your experience is older than me. 😅 And thank you Jim!
I think he did a good job too 😊
I'm looking for an electrician in Bakersfield does anyone know who I can call
The bonus footage was sooo important because it literally confirmed my suspicions of a breaker I’m dealing with it’s not that the other information wasn’t as important but that little bit did it for me and I can go straight to the source of my problem with confidence thank you!
This guy here is the Man Of the Year💯💯From all the videos I watched this 2022 I went from 16/hr to 25/hr God bless this man🫡
Awesome! Love to hear that! Thank you and may your $25 turn into $50/hr in a speedy manner! God bless you and yours as well!
All good info. Only things I would mention for anyone watching, is to stick with the breakers rated for your panel. Yes GE, Homeline, BR, and others will interchange and work just fine, but if they are not specifically listed for that specific panel I could see an issue in the event of fire or other insurance related event.
Also, not a big fan of any power tools (impact driver) when tightening electrical screw terminals, especially in a panel. Over-tightening a screw can be just as bad as under-tightening. Breakers are receptacles have rated torque values and it's often lower than people would think.
All great pointers! Thank you for explaining that!
I use an adjustable torque screwdriver to torque it to manufacturer required specifications. Wiha and Wera makes nice torque screwdriver sets.
I’m in HVAC school and we’re having the heating exam coming up this week so I’ve been binging all you heating vids and they’ve been helping a ton. They are really reinforcing all the small things I missed in class and I feel a lot more confident now. You have definitely earned my subscription.
Btw, my instructors post a lot of your videos on our canvas page for us to watch.
Great to hear that the videos have been helpful, thank you for the comment! Good luck in school, become a legend out there!!
And that's awesome! Love it! I am honored that some of the videos are good enough to even be shared by your instructor. 👍👍
Not an electrician, but am an electrical engineer. Please make sure you are using insulated gloves and insulated hand tools when working on electrical panels, live or not. It only takes a small accident to become seriously injured or worse, and many household tools are insulated to 1000v and would work fine in this instance. The 240v coming in on your main from the distribution transformer can absolutely kill you, and it's still live at the top of the panel even when you turn off the main (unless you have an exterior disconnect). Stay safe!
Fine we’ll hire you how much??!!!!
so true, you only get one chance to screw up with high voltage!
❤
so i can die if i dont do it right
Stick to being an engineer… there’s no reason to wear hot gloves here
I have greatly appreciated these videos. You have taught me a ton about HVAC and probably saved me $1,000s.
Awesome! That's what I love to hear! Thank you for stopping by and leaving a comment good sir! 👍👍
How's your day going so far
Hi Jay. I’m a subscriber. I really enjoy your videos and you “dad humor “. As someone who has done plenty of electrical work (not an electrician), I keep up with codes to the best of my ability. NEC code requires that the terminations in electrical panel, seps or sub-panels be torqued to manufacturer’s specifications. The simplest way is to first connect the wire with a screwdriver or low torque drill. Next using a torque screwdriver, apply the correct amount of inch lbs as listed on the breaker. Now you can insert the breaker and flip it to the on position. In this senecio you can buy a much cheaper torque screwdriver. Look up the prices and you’ll see that. Trust me that’s simply the best way to avoid under or over torquing. Both can cause serious problems. Stay safe!
I wanted to add a 30 amp breaker under the panel for a portable generator. Electrician wanted $1,500. After watching a few UA-cam videos I realized how easy it really was. All done for less than $200 in parts. Just waiting on interlock to arrive.
Another excellent video! Very clear and detail with step by step explanation and demonstration. Thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge and experience! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad to hear the video was clear and easy to understand, thank you!! And thanks for stopping by Kim, Have a fabulous weekend!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Very clear explanation
"It's about raisin awareness." Gotta love the dad jokes! lol
Didn't have hot water a couple years ago - looked at the breaker and it was on (even pushed on it). I figured it was time to replace the elements so made the drive on sketchy, winter roads to the box store 10 miles away and picked up a couple of replacements. When I got home and prepared to replace them, for giggles, I did an off/on flip on the breaker and I could hear it kick on! A few minutes later, I had hot water! Not sure what happened or why ... but it's been working fine ever since. I'll give the tapping tip a try and maybe think about replacing the breaker. Thanks!
If you don't feel comfortable working on your breaker. Just hope you're comfortable paying an electrician a small fortune
Yes you can save money by doing it yourself but that money could also be needed for your funeral costs or permanent disability instead. Is your life worth more than a couple hundred bucks?
This was a great Educational video jay...now im more confident in changing breakers 👍🙂 blessings my friend..
Your English is getting better! Спасибо тебе!
A very good and educational D I Y video. Electric circuits are about power percentage. A 19.2 Amp rating on a 2-pole 25 Amp breaker is ok. The 25 amp 2 pole breaker may cost more than a 2 pole 30. I replaced the heating element in an A O Smith water heater. I was amazed that a 2 pole 20 Amp breaker had run the water heater for years. The owner did not want to buy the proper breaker. I am waiting for a call to return someday soon when the hot water stops working again lol
20 amp is good for water heater. continuous load require 1.25Xrated current however continuous load is defined as run continuously 3hr+, therefore 20 amp is good for most of the time. note that per inspection wise, X1.25 in breaker selection is necessary.
welcome back Jay :D love to watch every video from you.
Great video. I've got a bad breaker that appears to be on, but no power coming out. Your video was perfect.
Thank you, glad it helped!
The breakers were GE and Square D ( not HO). The “ hooks are anchored on a BUS bar.
My comments are to say, Hi great video. FYI I worked for a major hardware store in the electrical department. Yes, it can be scary to work with electrical however, safety and caution is always best to follow. Great video.
Homeline ("HO") IS Square D ...you need to brush up on how to identify breakers sir. Also, you must NEVER, EVER, install ANYTHING other than the specific type AND BRAND in any panel, especially on the high current double pole types for water heaters, ranges, dryers and air conditioners. I have seen way too many damaged panels and serious fires caused by "handymen" and especially plumbers and HVAC hacks using the wrong type. (40 yrs. electrician.)
Thanks Jay and have a blessed day
Thank you Bob! May your weekend bring you abundant blessings as well!
thanks jay on the tips on troubleshooting the breaker very helpful have a great day be safe
Great video, as always. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you! I appreciate you stopping by and leaving a comment.
Have a phenomenal weekend good sir!
love how you're raisin awareness! 👍
I try 😄
per continuous load, times 1.25. hence in your case, 18.8x1.25 is the breaker size. the closest available breaker is 25 amp so 25 is optimum。however since 25 amp breakers are less common in the market, 30 amp ones are always found in similar cases
Ah interesting! So actually a 25 amp breaker in my case was even better than the 30. Thank you for clarifying and confirming that!
Congrats on 400k!
Thanks Ben!! It's looking like this year will be the last year I am in the lead though. 😄 Congrats on your explosive growth bro!! Keep making more videos on the topics that performed the best for you. 👍👍👍 The rate you are going at, you should hit 500k by the end of next year. That's pretty sweet man. You're good at what you do, God bless you in all your future ventures!
Video is great. Gave thumbs up for raisin' awareness.
Another solid video Jay. Thanks
Great video! And the dad joke at the end....classic!
First time watching your video and I really liked the way you approached the topic, quick and detailed. If there was one suggestion I could make, the focus keeps shifting to the closest object on the screen and that is sometimes very disorienting. If you shot a little wide, or shifted to the manual focus on your phone, it will not shift focus on your intermittently.
Thank you!! I appreciate the suggestion! I am actually using a nice camera but obviously dont know how to use it well.. It focusing on the wrong things really irritates me too, I've been trying my best to fix that in later videos. By taking a wide shot, do you mean zooming out and not filming so up close and then zoom in manually while editing the video?
Great video!😊
Nice video, I just wish you had shown a check of a single breaker, i.e., using a multimeter using the hot screw to a ground screw.
You the Best tiacher on world
Thank you so much!!!!!!
I've never dealt with this stuff before. Your video helped greatly❤
I love This channel ❤️
Very nice products
Thank you Sir, I have the same problem, water heater not turning on and the loosen switch of the Circuit Breaker.
Thanks for sharing .. what causes these to break since you really dont ever touch these. ? do they have a spring in them that just wears out and snaps . one of mine keeps tripping for some reason so i need to replace it and see if that is what the problem is
You should torque the circuit breaker screws to the correct setting, usually written on the breaker somewhere. I see an unmarked (to black) white wire connected as a hot wire to the breaker also.
Thanks for being so clear.
Very educational, thank you!
Excellent Video! very usefull in real situations!
The way you checked that voltage made me nervous. The point of using one hand for both is that if you do get shocked it only affects the hand.
Well done video, informative. And a funny guy. Grapes, who knew?
Question: My GFI breaker trips often. Should it be replaced or is it a greater issue? Only using Keurig coffee pot.
I replace my GFCI's whenever they start tripping. I've never had a larger issue cause them to trip. They go bad.
Try your pot on a different circuit first. If the pot trips the other GFI then its your pot. If not its your GFI. Be sure your GFI is rated correctly though.
While watching your good video, I noticed that since you have a sub-panel, (Main panel is outside) the original installer, rather than install a ground bar, took out the bar that ties the two neutral bars together. In the top left you have a 2P 50Acb. On the ground bar, it looks as though the white, possibly neutral was landed on the ground panel incorrectly. Also, I could not tell if the bonding jumper was installed from the now ground bar to the back can.
Thank you very much jay🙏 for another great video 👍🤗
You're welcome! Glad you liked the video!! 👍😊
First of all, thanks so much for such a simple to follow, thorough video. It was incredibly helpful for my first circuit breaker replacement. Although I'm hoping you can at least point me in the right direction as what to do next. My dryer went out. Checking the outlet with the multimeter first, I found that one of the legs didn't read on the multimeter. Then I went in the box. Checking the breaker, it didn't read anything at all. So I think it's the breaker and replace it. Problem is it still doesn't read anything on the multimeter. Is it time to call an electrician? Thanks again!
Sorry to hear about the breaker troubles! So on one side of the circuit breaker you are not getting 120v coming out? Are you measuring to neutral or to ground? What if you try taking out the air conditioner breaker and put that in instead? Still the same problem? Perhaps a loose or disconnected wire then? Keep the dryer unplugged while doing this too. Until you make sure that the breaker is putting out 240v. Just some thoughts I got when reading your comment, hope that gives you some ideas to look into. Good luck!
Just curious, I thought White is always a Neutral wire, in your case, it looks like its a 240V circuit and it is using a Black and White cable for 2 Hot Legs. Thank you.
Literally every home project I do the first time, I make AT LEAST one mistake which is fine because I can usually just redo it or buy a part to replace. Thats how we learn. The one thing you cannot do is make a mistake with high voltage. You can be killed or crippled for life and this will affect your whole family. This is a good educational video but it's definitely worth it to have a licensed electrician do this if you are untrained. Your life is worth more than the hundred bucks or so it will cost to have an electrician do this for you. And I am not an electrician btw.
Me also. I had to learn to fix around my home because everyone was charging what I felt was excessive, like $425 to replace a $300 microwave. I came to UA-cam and switched it out myself in 2 hours. I have time but not money like that. Now I'm going to replace my fuse 🤞
Really appreciate your videos, thanks!
Clear concise information.
Thank you!
Good refreshing tutorial
Glad to hear that, thank you!
According to other videos, the white line needs to be taped or marked red, as it is not a neutral for 240 volts. Other wise very good video.
I probably wouldn’t use an impact driver to tighten a screw terminal….. just my opinion
Awesome tutorial thank you so much
So would a breaker nob where u flip it is kinda loose would need to be replaced
I have a question jay so I have a 30amp for my hot water heater when the old heater was token out it was leaking at the heat elements and water was evey where then it made a pop electrical spark so should i change my breaker for new one .?
Couldn’t get new breaker to lock in😞
suggestions?
( old & new are identical square Ds)
Sorry, not much I can help with without being there but here are the normal things you would check:
1. Ensure the breaker is properly aligned with the busbar slots. Even a slight misalignment can prevent it from snapping in.
2. If the busbar has been damaged, it might not be able to provide the necessary grip for the breaker to snap in securely. How does the bar under that breaker look compared to other ones? You may need to bend it slightly with a pair of pliers if it looks different.
3. The new breaker itself could be damaged, preventing it from fitting correctly. Take a look again at the latches. Nothing shaved off or broken?
4. Double-check that the new breaker is compatible with your panel. Some brands or models have specific requirements and even if they look the same, the just don't work. It's annoying to have to go get another one but another thing to do is to simply try a different brand.
Another awesome video 👍👍👍
Thank you Harry!! I hope your weekend is going great and will get even more wonderful!!
Thanks for some more good information
I have a question. If the hook on the bottom accidentally breaks, is it still OK? I don't have alot of money to replace it. I am slowly changing out the old ones with new ones.
Excellent presentation. Thank you
very well done. thank you for sharing
Thank you so much for this video.
Instructions unclear. I've been turned into a burned human potato chip.
Even if you live you're spending the rest of your life in crippling pain and disabled. This is not a good project to just learn as you go.
You should not be using a power tool on the breaker. You also are supposed to torque the screws to proper torque. Per NEC. (Listed on the breaker). Otherwise a nice video.
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
You bet! Thank you for stopping by for the new video. Have a great weekend good sir!!
Hey, I got a question. I jumped my furnace the heat is on, but the outside fan is on
great video ty, this will help so much.
FYI Sometimes you just have to cycle the breaker switch after it's tripped because it looks normal an untripped.
Thank you, a very helpful video!
Good job
Technically, it should be a 25 amp breaker but a 30 is used out of convenience most of the time. ( Typical element draw on a water heater is 18 amps.... multiply the load by 125% , per code, and it's 22.5 amps using the next size up breaker giving you a 25 amp breaker). Another commonly oversized breaker is the well pump breaker.....same logic and math results in a 15 amp breaker which should be used instead of the commonly used 20 amp breaker.
Great information
How do I test the breaker with a multi meter? There's no power to the outlets our dryer and lights were plugged in. Thanks in advance.
I wouldn't recommend changing a breaker if you dont have much experience.
You could really hurt yourself here.
I only agree! 👍
❤awesome video....ty😊
Can you turn the breaker box back on with the breaker out? Meaning, taking the breaker to say Lowe's to check for a replacement. Can I just wrap the breaker wires with electrical tape?.
I cut a piece of cardboard to friction fit between the panel side and just cover the main lugs . That reduces my chance of an errant touch. Also , you can use gas line rubber hose to slide over any screwdriver shanks that are bare metal.
If I need to replace a 15 with a 20 or 30, do I need to replace all of the wires?
Hi Jay, I follow some of your videos, and it's really great. My question is do you have any regular job or are you working for yourself as HVAC/Electrician or working for a company in Hawaii?
Which brand is compatible with GE breakers?
i usually buy another house.
THANK YOU!
very helpful..thanks
Excellent vid Jay ... Good explanation as well ... And thank you for '' raising awareness's '' on the fruit's and veggies we consume 🤣😅😂
Thank you Eddy!! Glad you liked the video and the raisins! Lol 😂
Have a marvelous weekend my friend!!
First time ever seeing one of your videos and it's the first time I'm going to try to replace my own breaker.
Running through the comments now I'm a little bit scared!! I feel like I need to have (the electricians equivalent to) a beekeeper's suit on!! Dang. Can I feel confident and lost at the same time still? Yup
There's one breaker for most of the kitchen and the garage. Every single day when I go to use the microwave I have to cross my fingers that it doesn't trip the 15. I'm wondering if I can take it to 20?? But maybe the 15 is floppy so I need to check that first. I guess it would be safe to put a 15 on first. It's a big over the stove microwave and I've been here 9 years without any issues until now. I haven't added any appliances recently so I'm only assuming it's the breaker.
So my question is, could the microwave itself be starting to break and cause surges of some type? I wouldn't think so but I was just wondering if you have any suggestions or questions or information.
Good information.
Awesome, Thank you.
There may be some instances where you may not be able to turn off power to the whole building, especially in commercial applications, you have to work with a live panel and just have that one breaker off
Not saying that it's right but sometime we have to do what needs to be done
2 terminals coming out of the breaker?
For the Black & white wires.
It's a 240volt line so in north America we have split phase power. 120v from each leg to ground or 240v to each other. A standard 120v breaker would be half the size with just one terminal. GFCI/ and arc fault breakers typically monitor the ground/neutral of each circuit, so they will.have two terminals.
My Circuit Breaker (ETON, Type CH) has a tail. Yours doesn't, why? Where do I connect the tail? 🤷♀️
replaced my inside breaker for my outside ac condenser unit after I had no amps at the outside breaker of the unit. Inside breaker keeps tripping immediately. Even if I pull the outside breaker it still flips immediately. Need advice asap! Frustrating!
That sounds like it may be a short in the condenser unit. I would suggest starting with this video: ua-cam.com/video/G1EBHrOgs-Q/v-deo.htmlsi=G9KIFYLEkPnSf1mY
@@WordofAdviceTV I did all of that and everything checked out. I believe the problem is between the inside breaker box and the outside breaker box. The breaks trips when i have that plug pulled. Any further suggestions?
@@Steve-rc4np Ah, that's a tough one. Hopefully it's not a short somewhere right in the middle, inside the wall. Have you tried disconnecting the wires at the disconnect box to see if the breaker still trips even with the wires disconnected? I would take the cover off the breaker panel and the disconnect box and investigate as much of the wires as I can see, disconnecting all of them, then one at a time to see if it makes a difference. If I still can't find anything, then at this point I would probably be recommending an electrician.
I love your videos man. Great job 👍
Excellent!
Very helpful
I replaced a breaker where I worked, and I used an ampclamp meter and found the breaker didn't hold rated amperage. I always turn off each circuit before the main myself.
The joke at the end was more dangerous to my health than the electricity 😂
Thank man really helped out
Glad it helped! 🙂
Others mentioned already, but there is no master disconnect evident here - is this a subpanel, so all power might be turned off coming in? All his casual work with the breaker replacement, is around a live circuit, and once the breaker's out, that bus bar is exposed and hot. All it takes is something contacting the neutral, ground, or box wall with a screwdriver slipping, or similar, and a short can occur in a second. I hate to see those live main lines totally uncovered, when there are plastic covers readily available now which at least give a layer of protection.