Yeah unexpected because it's basically all we use to mill aluminium. But alu has optimal angles which aren't as optimal for other metals, so could be that too. Obviously in saw teeth angle/design it's not suitable. Strangely though our band saw is steel. Our drop saw is carbide (as is mine at home). All for alu.
Yeah exactly. Carbide’s great especially when you’re dealing with computationally exact cutting but when you’re doing things manually by sight, feel, and experience it’s a whole different ball game
Years ago I worked at a fabrication shop/machine shop and we did a lot of first operation procedures for a larger military contractor. One of the operations was to cut spacers from heavy gauge tubing. The most common was one that measured 8in OD x 6in ID x 1in thick. The stock was delivered to us in 21ft lengths. They started out using a band saw but it wasn't accurate enough, then they were using a large power hacksaw, which was the most accurate. They had a lathe that could handle it but it would have required re-arranging the shop area to accommodate the long tubes and cutting the tubing down produced waste and the last cuts were an issue. What I did was to take an old lathe chuck and I mounted it to an angle plate I made up, the chuck could allow a flush cut right up the the saw blade on the power hacksaw. (and later a carbide cold saw). The lathe chuck and the mount was bolted down where the vise was, it allowed a good solid grip on the tubing and was easy to advance as all it needed was a positive stop to set the length of cut. After a few months we sourced four more large older lathe chucks and I set up four more saws the same way and what started as a week long order could now be done in two days or less letting us get on to more profitable work.
Man honestly the big material is where band saws flop. Largest we had was 12" bar... It was delivered in 10' sticks, first issue we had wasn't even getting the vise to move it, it was actually stopping the material itself. Once we found that out, getting a straight cut was the new one.
I really appreciate that you let us know what the manufacturers say, and then list your experience level on the subject. It's ok to have an opinion on something, even if you've never tried it or seen it. As long as you are up front about that, then the consumer can gauge their take-away.
I've witnessed an operator trash 3 blades in a row ($300/ea) trying to resume a cut with teeth embedded in it from the first. Inexperienced operators are indeed very expensive.
We used to buy our blade in continuous roll bulk form. Our do-all bandsaw had a blade welding attachment on it. It worked very well and I highly doubt our custom-made blades were expensive.
Regarding the carbide... How much faster we talking through soft metal? You ever get some soft scrap and turn her up fo "11" and see what happens? Plus, the gods will favor your potential sacrifice of the blade if it goes how you expect. They keep track, theyll make it up to ya at some point with a different blade surviving something it has no business surviving 😅
There are charts for everything you might be chewing up. " Single part" it's not worth turning it up, but just doing it right. It's large production where you end up weighing the cost of the insert against the increased part output l.
We normally use carbide on aluminium parts, but thats CNC machines and not a saw. I use carbide saw blades for alu, but not band saws. We use steel for that. ANd it's probably the same reason...
If that happened to a part that I was working on I would either take a sharp punch and knock out the fragments of teeth that got embedded into the part or I would use a angle grinder with a cut off wheel to cut through the remnants of saw blade, then finish the job on the band saw.
In a fab shop in town when I was contracted to them I used to run the saw at max on carbide but then again that was a peice work job 😅if it was t&m oh that saw you could go home and come back on some of the I beams
That's what we would usually do with short pieces of stock like this. Made a lot of rings and seals that you would just reset your g54 or even have it programmed in to move up itself eventually. You could get 3 or 4 parts out easily while holding fairly tight tolerances and finishes.
carbide loves a nice hearty cut most “smaller” machines couldn’t spin a blade fast enough in soft materials to get adequate pressures and end up honing the edge dull.
this may be a stupid question, but could you remove those embedded teeth and resume the cut with an ugly surface finish, or is there work hardening or something else involved that i cannot see happening?
Use one of the cordless bandsaws, blades are about $10 right now. Milwaukee 14 tpi blade and Dewalt bandsaw get about 8 cuts on 1.75" grade 150 bar with caution. Tpi and feed rate are life expectancy of the blade. Throw a pipewrench sideways to grab the end and lean on it.
Hard to find good blades nowadays, but round stuff have to start slow and finish slow as it is a thin cut that gets in between your teeth and makes to deep a cut, 3 teeth minimum width
With the carbide blade try feeding it harder than what you think. Carbide works amazing in soft metal to do fast production cutting. That cut right there should only take 5 to 10 seconds.
What shape/size are you cutting & what sfm & feed pressure? I am always interested in better solutions. with the M42 blade it takes us about 1.25 minutes, 270 sfm & 90 Lbs speed is not a problem here, but might be on some other jobs. this is 1018 & 5" OD
@@HOWEES With (coolant) we are running about the same SFM were at 320 but we are at 140 lbs ish. i put the coolant part in parenthesis because as I look back to the video I see my mistake. I don't think you are running coolant on your band saw with carbide. This would also explain why carbide blades may not be as fun for you and your shop. I hope to learn more from your videos and really enjoy your content.
The Marvel saws vise clamp has an inherent problem. It is possible to lock the vise handle and not be clamping on sht! The clamp screw should always be retracted fully and the handle pushed fully to the jaw!
EDM! It ends up with zero kerf or tool marks. The cheap way to split a finished part using a band saw is make a fixture. The operator set the feed rate too high and it tears the workpiece free. Can't rush "perfection"
“Has not worked for me” is a humble sentence
I LOVE THIS FELLOW!!! HE REALLY EXPLAINS EVERYTHING VERY WELL AND HE REEKS OF INTEGRITY AND EXPERIENCE.
Well put.
Why are you yelling?
+ he got sometimes funny moments that make it just more enjoy able
Those last few words were the the most valuable, carbide isn't the end all solution. Know your workpiece and know your tooling.
Yeah unexpected because it's basically all we use to mill aluminium. But alu has optimal angles which aren't as optimal for other metals, so could be that too. Obviously in saw teeth angle/design it's not suitable.
Strangely though our band saw is steel. Our drop saw is carbide (as is mine at home). All for alu.
Yeah exactly. Carbide’s great especially when you’re dealing with computationally exact cutting but when you’re doing things manually by sight, feel, and experience it’s a whole different ball game
Years ago I worked at a fabrication shop/machine shop and we did a lot of first operation procedures for a larger military contractor.
One of the operations was to cut spacers from heavy gauge tubing. The most common was one that measured 8in OD x 6in ID x 1in thick. The stock was delivered to us in 21ft lengths. They started out using a band saw but it wasn't accurate enough, then they were using a large power hacksaw, which was the most accurate. They had a lathe that could handle it but it would have required re-arranging the shop area to accommodate the long tubes and cutting the tubing down produced waste and the last cuts were an issue. What I did was to take an old lathe chuck and I mounted it to an angle plate I made up, the chuck could allow a flush cut right up the the saw blade on the power hacksaw. (and later a carbide cold saw).
The lathe chuck and the mount was bolted down where the vise was, it allowed a good solid grip on the tubing and was easy to advance as all it needed was a positive stop to set the length of cut.
After a few months we sourced four more large older lathe chucks and I set up four more saws the same way and what started as a week long order could now be done in two days or less letting us get on to more profitable work.
Man honestly the big material is where band saws flop. Largest we had was 12" bar... It was delivered in 10' sticks, first issue we had wasn't even getting the vise to move it, it was actually stopping the material itself. Once we found that out, getting a straight cut was the new one.
There’s always a solution, it just takes “that guy” to see it. Well done😎🍺
I really appreciate that you let us know what the manufacturers say, and then list your experience level on the subject. It's ok to have an opinion on something, even if you've never tried it or seen it. As long as you are up front about that, then the consumer can gauge their take-away.
Your humility is very engaging
I've witnessed an operator trash 3 blades in a row ($300/ea) trying to resume a cut with teeth embedded in it from the first.
Inexperienced operators are indeed very expensive.
That a few nice ribeye steaks and a lot of beer instead of a new blade. Thanks for tip and trick
I appreciate learning something new with many of your videos. Thank you. ✌️
We used to buy our blade in continuous roll bulk form. Our do-all bandsaw had a blade welding attachment on it. It worked very well and I highly doubt our custom-made blades were expensive.
Regarding the carbide... How much faster we talking through soft metal? You ever get some soft scrap and turn her up fo "11" and see what happens? Plus, the gods will favor your potential sacrifice of the blade if it goes how you expect. They keep track, theyll make it up to ya at some point with a different blade surviving something it has no business surviving 😅
There are charts for everything you might be chewing up. " Single part" it's not worth turning it up, but just doing it right. It's large production where you end up weighing the cost of the insert against the increased part output l.
We normally use carbide on aluminium parts, but thats CNC machines and not a saw. I use carbide saw blades for alu, but not band saws. We use steel for that. ANd it's probably the same reason...
Put clamps on both sides. We always used the cork drive marvel saws.
If that happened to a part that I was working on I would either take a sharp punch and knock out the fragments of teeth that got embedded into the part or I would use a angle grinder with a cut off wheel to cut through the remnants of saw blade, then finish the job on the band saw.
Every time I see him I want to make a deal
In a fab shop in town when I was contracted to them I used to run the saw at max on carbide but then again that was a peice work job 😅if it was t&m oh that saw you could go home and come back on some of the I beams
Part off possibly?
That's exactly what we did.
-Cameraman
That's what we would usually do with short pieces of stock like this. Made a lot of rings and seals that you would just reset your g54 or even have it programmed in to move up itself eventually. You could get 3 or 4 parts out easily while holding fairly tight tolerances and finishes.
what I love about Howie is: I always have more questions afterwards 🤓🎻
carbide loves a nice hearty cut most “smaller” machines couldn’t spin a blade fast enough in soft materials to get adequate pressures and end up honing the edge dull.
With holes already in the piece, could you not put a bolt thru it and us that in a way to prevent it from spinn8ng? Again, asking for a friend 😂
Sometimes your the bird, sometimes your the statue.
Looks like an ole 0.45 abrasive cutting wheel on a angle grinder to the rescue.
Chucked in a lathe with a cut-off could have avoided this. If I used a bandsaw, I would have clamped it in a vise and held on. Good luck.
Not cheap money i think i might have cheap money 😂
Lock it in a pipe vise. Mark it with a wrap around. Cut it with a porta band. Use a blade made for stainless. You will have success.
Would you put that part on lathe and make a grove with his cutter?
I have not had a part spin loose in my band saw shredding the blade teeth, 7 times... Lol ..
Same, carbide gets smoked no matter how fast I spin it unless it’s at least some kind of semi hard ferrous metal
this may be a stupid question, but could you remove those embedded teeth and resume the cut with an ugly surface finish, or is there work hardening or something else involved that i cannot see happening?
Use one of the cordless bandsaws, blades are about $10 right now. Milwaukee 14 tpi blade and Dewalt bandsaw get about 8 cuts on 1.75" grade 150 bar with caution. Tpi and feed rate are life expectancy of the blade. Throw a pipewrench sideways to grab the end and lean on it.
My deep cut Milwaukee bandsaws max out at 4.5" this is 5"
Hard to find good blades nowadays, but round stuff have to start slow and finish slow as it is a thin cut that gets in between your teeth and makes to deep a cut, 3 teeth minimum width
Guy looks like the love child of Elton John and Mike Myers 😂 and boy does he value his instruments
Thank You for the informative and educational video. Have A Productive Day! 🧰⚒️🔧
That's why they invented cutting torches. Do lasers do well enough?
So how do you remove the teeth and finish cutting the part?
With the carbide blade try feeding it harder than what you think. Carbide works amazing in soft metal to do fast production cutting. That cut right there should only take 5 to 10 seconds.
What shape/size are you cutting & what sfm & feed pressure? I am always interested in better solutions. with the M42 blade it takes us about 1.25 minutes, 270 sfm & 90 Lbs speed is not a problem here, but might be on some other jobs. this is 1018 & 5" OD
@@HOWEES With (coolant) we are running about the same SFM were at 320 but we are at 140 lbs ish. i put the coolant part in parenthesis because as I look back to the video I see my mistake. I don't think you are running coolant on your band saw with carbide. This would also explain why carbide blades may not be as fun for you and your shop. I hope to learn more from your videos and really enjoy your content.
@@renton7585 Yes We are running sawlution synthetic water soluble fluid. What material are you cutting
The Marvel saws vise clamp has an inherent problem. It is possible to lock the vise handle and not be clamping on sht! The clamp screw should always be retracted fully and the handle pushed fully to the jaw!
Can you use a stone on a lathe?
Is the table thick enough to install a helicoil?
Why not make a fixture that keys in the holes in the case to keep the work from spinning?
You didn't tell me how to fix it and I'm about to be fired 😮😮
Put it in a lathe and use a parting tool.
Part it off with a carbide tipped tool.
I did.
Cut it off on the lathe?
Part it on a lathe
Cutting rounds on a bandsaw is asking for more problems or fewer fingers.
EDM!
It ends up with zero kerf or tool marks.
The cheap way to split a finished part using a band saw is make a fixture.
The operator set the feed rate too high and it tears the workpiece free.
Can't rush "perfection"
Just machine a groove there with a lathe, then cut it with a bandsaw. You will probably chip an insert, but it will rip those teeth right out.
Hold it with a Vice, instead of holding it in your hands.
Just put it in the lathe and angle grind it out.
Oh no⚙️⚙️
Man... go outside for a little while... those fluorescent lights are turning you gray
I just learned your full name thanks to someone pulling out of that race. Do you have a politics channel?
Not currently, but thinking about it.
-Cameraman
Why not just cut it on the lathe...