A perfect simple video I needed. Thank you! For my next request: Could you PLEASE do a video on throwing knife drills and techniques? Please and thank you!
You are good, you should make a tutorial video on throwing. I am decent, but i do nit have any kind of consistency that you seem to have. And i can only throw over hand with one hand
Making a target of 6x6s 9x8 blocks to be close to a regulation hatchet target board. Planks splinter and don't last. Hoping this endgrain takes blades better and self-heals more than poplar or cottonwood. My plank target was most made from scrap SPF material and poplar planks which costs $9.68 for a 2x10x8. I get perhaps 100-130 hits for the bullseye board before replacing or about a solid hour of practice. I'm told that the endgrain blocks can last 5-6 times longer and off course will cost about $3.25/block to replace. However the initial investment in 6x6s for this was $79. Hoping the long term in replacement costs pay off for the extensive use ingive it.
It also depends on what kind of wood you use. Even though pine is considered to be a soft wood in construction, it is still very hard for axe/knife throwing. With an axe, I can go through a plank of pine in less than 30 minutes. End grain have two huge advantages because of the orientation. The first is that is it much softer and easier to stick. The second is that it last much longer than vertical planks. I have a log target in my backyard that is about 8" thick, which is also end grain. I estimate that it lasted well over 10,000 throws on one side. Then I flipped it over and started on the other. Log targets are great that they are already a decent size end grain target, but are most not more than 2' wide. And if they are, they are extremely heavy. But, if you have a supply of them, that is basically the best way to go.
@@tomknapp6194 I wanted to get some large, wide logs like that but I don't want to pay for it. Tried it with some a16" logs but they didn't last that long. The free material however often had knots, cracks and other imperfections that would make for a lousy target. The endgrain 6x6 have been lasting longer than anticipated. My bullseye is pretty worn now but I'm trying to wait until it warms up a bit to replace about 18 blocks. Just been too cold and wet this winter.
@@matthewbittenbender9191 This is from my 6 years of axe throwing, 4 years of coaching, and 4 years of being at the World Championships. No, I didn’t win. lol Not even close. I’m not sure what to say about the materials. Maybe tree removal services might be willing to at least give you some advice. To make them last longer, there are a few things you can do. Water them like they are still alive! Before, during, and after. They don’t need to be dripping wet, but more is better than less. Regulate how people throw. Some people want to relive their glory days in high school and college and want to see how hard an axe can be thrown. The amount of damage to the target is exponential. Most of the best throwers are more like a light toss. It is more accurate, less likely to bounce back, and will extend the life of your target. It might be tempting to just rip the axe out of the target in a show of strength, but that is something else that causes excessive wear and tear. Push the handle down, if you can, then go up and down like on a water pump lever. The axes also make a huge difference. Most all metal axes from hardware stores have thick profiles (from the blade to about an inch closer to the handle) and do a lot of damage. Generally speaking, a good chopper axe will never be a good thrower and vice versa. The good less pricey ones (under $25): 14” Ace Hardware Hammer Axe 14” Lowes Kobalt (Garden section) If more professional axes were not available, I would be throwing all day with the Ace Hardware. In my opinion, the best axe for under $25. But, I also do some pretty good trick shots with the Kobalt. A little better (On Amazon $25-$40): 20.25” Axe Gang Axe 16” Axe Gang Axe DO NOT GET THE AXE GANG TRAINER! IT IS FOAM! The 20.25” one is nice because you can shorten the handle if you want. Both have the same blade. The 20.25” is over the 19” limit for the World Axe Throwing League, but if you are not competing, don’t worry about it. The 16” is featured in The Walking Dead as Rick’s axe starting in about the 4th season or so. The 20.25” is featured in a number of Asian movies, like Kung Fu Hustle.
@@matthewbittenbender9191 Throwing is another matter. The single most important thing for success is doing the same thing from the same distance, until you need to move. You need to pay attention to how the axe hits the target. If it doesn't hit on the blade, the handle can break. The adjustments are easy. Of course, the distances are just estimates and vary with the thrower slightly. The starting distance should be roughly 14", but some will have to get closer and some further back. If the handle is hitting first (under rotation), the thrower is too close. Back up about 9". If it is sticking and the handle is close to the target, backup about 6". Hitting the handle is the most damaging throw for the axe and the target. If the axe is hitting on the top (over rotation), the thrower is too far. Move about 9" closer. Less damaging to the axe, more damaging to the target, more likely to bounce back. Some people have a hard time keeping their wrists from snapping and causing too much rotation. An axe with a longer handle (especially the 20.25" Axe Gang) naturally rotates more slowly and maybe keep them from getting too close. That's the physics of it. Small handle spins faster, get closer. Longer handle more slowly, back up.
@@tomknapp6194 it's all good to know from an Axepert like yourself. I throw competitively too, tho not at World's or anything (not yet) but hold a 54 average. I'm pretty careful about how I remove the heads. End grain 6x6 is very self healing as long as they're moist which I do. They probably aren't as great as a end grain log, but it's what I have for the moment. Certain axes do take a toll, like a WATL Corporal and big axes want to split the blocks bc of the force. All my personal axes I use (which is A LOT) are profiled for throwing. My working axes are not and used for that purpose. Still, after 50+ hits in the 5 ring or kill shots chips will start to form and slip out with the blade regardless. And unless I'm doing a trick shot or I have a new style 19" handle I am typically not hitting handles on the wood. And on a side note, I do wish watl with temper there blades even once. None of the hatchet venues I go to use end grain and I've had my Gen 1 Butcher and KOD and JOC get distorted edges from pine/poplar know.
Why would this one not swell and split apart like your last one? I built one just like this out of pressure treated 2 by 4's and 4 by 4's. It expanded and fell apart... so I'm hesitant to build another one this way
How does that compare to a Cottonwood target? I know wood like pine and even oak can be tough to stick. Axe or knife. Cool target at any rate. Great job.
The wood swelling and bursting the frame is a real "thing." I replaced some of the (2 x4) pieces that were most worn out in my target and ended up with a half inch gap. I had even clamped and re-screwed my outer frame more than once, but it seems to be a losing battle.
I know exactly what you mean. I recently made a smaller target for a friend but I glued all the blocks together as well as gluing the frame. I took a thin sheet of metal and cut it to the width of my frame then cut off pieces that were about 6 inches long, and then bent them into an L and capped all four corners. Use the generous amount of small nails for each metal cap. That seems to be working.
I was actually wondering if anyone has tried no frame and really good clamp/glue job. It seems the wood could expand/contract without a frame. Instead of resisting those forces just let them be.
I want to build one along the lines of yours but for knife and axe throwing that would be in the 4' x 4' range. Looking at the weight of dry, pressure-treated soft pine, it looks like the finished weight would be a little over 300 pounds if I used 5 1/2" long pieces. Based on that weight, I assumed that yours weighed about 75 pounds (that's why I wondered if you had weighed yours). A weight of 300+ pounds would be a lot to deal with. I was also thinking about dropping the weight by going with 3 1/2" long pieces and using 2" x 4" pieces to frame it. Do you think that using 3 1/2" pieces, instead of the 5 1/2" pieces you used, would still be thick enough to work? Do you have any idea how far in your knives were penetrating the surface? Sorry about all the questions. I appreciate your help.
Yep, no glue. Everything else the same as yours. There's also the possibility of using a lighter weight wood rather than treated yellow pine. I'm looking into that. Treated wood needs to be very well dried out or it will be really heavy. Can you let me know about how far your knives were going into the wood. Thanks.
No wood glue? That and some added oil or deck stain would increase its durability for weather. Also, why not stagger the blocks like brick courses for added stability?
Ive glued targets, oiled them, different types of wood but at the end of the day it’s made to beat up. I’ve tried oils and sealers but the blades don’t stick as well.
@RC-rl3zs I painted the center bullseye with yellow Rustoleum spray paint. It takes many coats and long drying time for yellow. All of a sudden, most of my knives were falling out or bouncing out of the yellow area. Didn't want to wait 3 days for yellow to dry.
Cool Build. I'll be making this real soon. When you throw, does the knife rotate or just like a half rotation? Some people throw from the blade and it rotates 180.
Depends on the knife/axe, thrower, and distance. Generally speaking, once you find the distance for 1 rotation, double the distance for a double rotation. It isn't always exact, but not too far off.
I’ve had a few. My favorite are the sog fling. Good price point and they seem to tolerate abuse better than others. I’m a big fan of the para cord wrapped handles. They don’t ricochet quite as bad.
Throwing knives receive lots of damage. Hitting other knives, smacking the target at a bad angle, misses that wind up in the dirt or rock. But as far as the screws go, the 5 1/2in blocks are plenty of separation between to avoid hitting them. However, once the target is worn down enough it’s possible to make contact. It would take a lot of throwing to get to that point.
I WANNA SEE A KNIFE THROWING CHANNEL TAKE 20 KNIVES AND THROW ONE TAKE A STEP BACK, ETC AND HIT EVERY KNIFE... WILL IT HAPPEN? OR DO YOU ONLY THROW AT ONE DISTANCE?
I’m not a knife maker but I’m a big fan of the SOG fling knives. They suit me because I throw knives the traditional way. No spin throwing has grown in popularity and there are different styles of knives that work better for that. You can practice with almost any knife. Even a butter knife with the right target. Don’t throw any knives that you don’t want to get messed up.
Knife throwing is now an organized sport through the World Knife Throwing League, a division of the World Axe Throwing League. You generally want to buy a knife that is one solid piece because knives with part tend to break pretty easily. Some are as simple as cut out of sheet metal.
I’m using the end grain of pressure treated yellow pine. Softer woods like pine, spruce, poplar make for a better knife and hatchet throwing. I’ve used hardwoods like oak and it works but you may need to throw with a little more force.
Thank you for the informative video! I really love that target design! I'm going to thumbs up and subscribe to help support your channel! I'm planning on trying that design in the spring as I really need a good target! Thanks again!
A perfect simple video I needed. Thank you! For my next request: Could you PLEASE do a video on throwing knife drills and techniques? Please and thank you!
Nice and simple tutorial
Throwing with both hands is awesome
LOL the end. Nice I'm going to make one like this. Thank you.
Y'all are pretty good knife throwers. Wow! 🙂
Great job. Thanks for sharing this
Great video. I need to make one of these for my axe throwing. thanks
thanks i built a target and it works great i loved your video
Une super cible , bien solide, qui va durer longtemps. Merci pour l'idée.👍
刀靶做的很漂亮！真羡慕你们两个，都有共同的爱好。
Great video. You and your wife had some great throws as well. 🤘🏻🔪
Quedó muy bien. One of the best tutorials I have seen.
Great project! Nice work.
Cheers
This is fantastic! Thanks for the upload! 🔥
Great video guys! Just got some knives and looking to build our own target next week 💪
Love your design I made mines exactly like yours but then I sprayed it down with Thompson's weather seal, and then I'm going to paint the edges
Nice. I oiled a target one time. It seemed like the knives hard a harder time sticking in the wood grain.
This came out really nice. I'm going to make one just like it. Maybe a hair larger
I like throwing knife..
Is that a revolutionary war era house? And nice throwing
You are good, you should make a tutorial video on throwing. I am decent, but i do nit have any kind of consistency that you seem to have. And i can only throw over hand with one hand
Just what I was looking for .. Thank you
That's exactly what I wanted, beautiful, have one ? What are the knifes you are using?
SOG fling knives
Thank you, sir
Great tutorial!
My next project. Great job. Always remember when your wife can throw that good you better be a good boy. LOL
nice work!
Making a target of 6x6s 9x8 blocks to be close to a regulation hatchet target board. Planks splinter and don't last. Hoping this endgrain takes blades better and self-heals more than poplar or cottonwood. My plank target was most made from scrap SPF material and poplar planks which costs $9.68 for a 2x10x8. I get perhaps 100-130 hits for the bullseye board before replacing or about a solid hour of practice. I'm told that the endgrain blocks can last 5-6 times longer and off course will cost about $3.25/block to replace. However the initial investment in 6x6s for this was $79. Hoping the long term in replacement costs pay off for the extensive use ingive it.
It also depends on what kind of wood you use. Even though pine is considered to be a soft wood in construction, it is still very hard for axe/knife throwing. With an axe, I can go through a plank of pine in less than 30 minutes.
End grain have two huge advantages because of the orientation. The first is that is it much softer and easier to stick. The second is that it last much longer than vertical planks. I have a log target in my backyard that is about 8" thick, which is also end grain. I estimate that it lasted well over 10,000 throws on one side. Then I flipped it over and started on the other.
Log targets are great that they are already a decent size end grain target, but are most not more than 2' wide. And if they are, they are extremely heavy. But, if you have a supply of them, that is basically the best way to go.
@@tomknapp6194 I wanted to get some large, wide logs like that but I don't want to pay for it. Tried it with some a16" logs but they didn't last that long. The free material however often had knots, cracks and other imperfections that would make for a lousy target.
The endgrain 6x6 have been lasting longer than anticipated. My bullseye is pretty worn now but I'm trying to wait until it warms up a bit to replace about 18 blocks. Just been too cold and wet this winter.
@@matthewbittenbender9191 This is from my 6 years of axe throwing, 4 years of coaching, and 4 years of being at the World Championships. No, I didn’t win. lol Not even close.
I’m not sure what to say about the materials. Maybe tree removal services might be willing to at least give you some advice.
To make them last longer, there are a few things you can do.
Water them like they are still alive! Before, during, and after. They don’t need to be dripping wet, but more is better than less.
Regulate how people throw. Some people want to relive their glory days in high school and college and want to see how hard an axe can be thrown. The amount of damage to the target is exponential. Most of the best throwers are more like a light toss. It is more accurate, less likely to bounce back, and will extend the life of your target.
It might be tempting to just rip the axe out of the target in a show of strength, but that is something else that causes excessive wear and tear. Push the handle down, if you can, then go up and down like on a water pump lever.
The axes also make a huge difference. Most all metal axes from hardware stores have thick profiles (from the blade to about an inch closer to the handle) and do a lot of damage. Generally speaking, a good chopper axe will never be a good thrower and vice versa.
The good less pricey ones (under $25):
14” Ace Hardware Hammer Axe
14” Lowes Kobalt (Garden section)
If more professional axes were not available, I would be throwing all day with the Ace Hardware. In my opinion, the best axe for under $25. But, I also do some pretty good trick shots with the Kobalt.
A little better (On Amazon $25-$40):
20.25” Axe Gang Axe
16” Axe Gang Axe
DO NOT GET THE AXE GANG TRAINER! IT IS FOAM!
The 20.25” one is nice because you can shorten the handle if you want. Both have the same blade. The 20.25” is over the 19” limit for the World Axe Throwing League, but if you are not competing, don’t worry about it. The 16” is featured in The Walking Dead as Rick’s axe starting in about the 4th season or so. The 20.25” is featured in a number of Asian movies, like Kung Fu Hustle.
@@matthewbittenbender9191 Throwing is another matter.
The single most important thing for success is doing the same thing from the same distance, until you need to move.
You need to pay attention to how the axe hits the target. If it doesn't hit on the blade, the handle can break. The adjustments are easy. Of course, the distances are just estimates and vary with the thrower slightly. The starting distance should be roughly 14", but some will have to get closer and some further back.
If the handle is hitting first (under rotation), the thrower is too close. Back up about 9". If it is sticking and the handle is close to the target, backup about 6". Hitting the handle is the most damaging throw for the axe and the target.
If the axe is hitting on the top (over rotation), the thrower is too far. Move about 9" closer. Less damaging to the axe, more damaging to the target, more likely to bounce back.
Some people have a hard time keeping their wrists from snapping and causing too much rotation. An axe with a longer handle (especially the 20.25" Axe Gang) naturally rotates more slowly and maybe keep them from getting too close. That's the physics of it. Small handle spins faster, get closer. Longer handle more slowly, back up.
@@tomknapp6194 it's all good to know from an Axepert like yourself. I throw competitively too, tho not at World's or anything (not yet) but hold a 54 average. I'm pretty careful about how I remove the heads. End grain 6x6 is very self healing as long as they're moist which I do. They probably aren't as great as a end grain log, but it's what I have for the moment. Certain axes do take a toll, like a WATL Corporal and big axes want to split the blocks bc of the force. All my personal axes I use (which is A LOT) are profiled for throwing. My working axes are not and used for that purpose. Still, after 50+ hits in the 5 ring or kill shots chips will start to form and slip out with the blade regardless. And unless I'm doing a trick shot or I have a new style 19" handle I am typically not hitting handles on the wood.
And on a side note, I do wish watl with temper there blades even once. None of the hatchet venues I go to use end grain and I've had my Gen 1 Butcher and KOD and JOC get distorted edges from pine/poplar know.
Great job!
Awesome vid, what kind of throwing knives do you use?
SOG fling
Why would this one not swell and split apart like your last one? I built one just like this out of pressure treated 2 by 4's and 4 by 4's. It expanded and fell apart... so I'm hesitant to build another one this way
How does that compare to a Cottonwood target? I know wood like pine and even oak can be tough to stick. Axe or knife. Cool target at any rate. Great job.
Never made one from cotton wood but I bet it would do well. I would try it.
Pretty cool 😎👌
Good stuff man! im converting my axe targets to these targets ive your method of building is spot on. treated wood is better i assume for longevity?
Exactly. Because its stored outside for the most part. But whatever you have is fine. If you throw a lot, it may simple wear out before it ever rots.
Treated wood is generally harder and more likely to bounce an axe or knife.
The wood swelling and bursting the frame is a real "thing." I replaced some of the (2 x4) pieces that were most worn out in my target and ended up with a half inch gap. I had even clamped and re-screwed my outer frame more than once, but it seems to be a losing battle.
I know exactly what you mean. I recently made a smaller target for a friend but I glued all the blocks together as well as gluing the frame. I took a thin sheet of metal and cut it to the width of my frame then cut off pieces that were about 6 inches long, and then bent them into an L and capped all four corners. Use the generous amount of small nails for each metal cap. That seems to be working.
I was actually wondering if anyone has tried no frame and really good clamp/glue job. It seems the wood could expand/contract without a frame. Instead of resisting those forces just let them be.
Nicely done, what type of wood did you use for the end grain?
Pressure treated pine
Molto bravo
I would love to know the weight of the final project.
I never weighed it and I actually gave that target away. Probably in the ballpark of 50 pounds or higher.
I want to build one along the lines of yours but for knife and axe throwing that would be in the 4' x 4' range. Looking at the weight of dry, pressure-treated soft pine, it looks like the finished weight would be a little over 300 pounds if I used 5 1/2" long pieces. Based on that weight, I assumed that yours weighed about 75 pounds (that's why I wondered if you had weighed yours). A weight of 300+ pounds would be a lot to deal with. I was also thinking about dropping the weight by going with 3 1/2" long pieces and using 2" x 4" pieces to frame it. Do you think that using 3 1/2" pieces, instead of the 5 1/2" pieces you used, would still be thick enough to work? Do you have any idea how far in your knives were penetrating the surface? Sorry about all the questions. I appreciate your help.
It cwould work if you wanted to cut weight and only have a single target
If you’re going to throw a lot make the blocks easy to exchange for fresh pieces. No glue
Yep, no glue. Everything else the same as yours. There's also the possibility of using a lighter weight wood rather than treated yellow pine. I'm looking into that. Treated wood needs to be very well dried out or it will be really heavy. Can you let me know about how far your knives were going into the wood. Thanks.
No wood glue? That and some added oil or deck stain would increase its durability for weather. Also, why not stagger the blocks like brick courses for added stability?
Ive glued targets, oiled them, different types of wood but at the end of the day it’s made to beat up. I’ve tried oils and sealers but the blades don’t stick as well.
@RC-rl3zs I painted the center bullseye with yellow Rustoleum spray paint. It takes many coats and long drying time for yellow. All of a sudden, most of my knives were falling out or bouncing out of the yellow area. Didn't want to wait 3 days for yellow to dry.
Cool Build. I'll be making this real soon. When you throw, does the knife rotate or just like a half rotation? Some people throw from the blade and it rotates 180.
Depends on the knife. I typical throw from the handle from a range that allows a 360 rotation.
Depends on the knife/axe, thrower, and distance. Generally speaking, once you find the distance for 1 rotation, double the distance for a double rotation. It isn't always exact, but not too far off.
Hello, is there a standard way on how to make a throwing knife in order to become accurate when it come to its velocity?
I’m not a knife smith. Not sure I understand the question.
I'm curious - how much does that target weigh?
Never weighed one but they’re extremely heavy
Please can someone help by replying with the measurements of the block in cm and what type of wood an end grain should be used ? thanks
Pressure treated blocks of your choice cut at 13.9 cm long. I’m sure any wood type will work.
What brand and style of throwing knives are you using, sir/ma’am?
SOG FLING
@@RC-rl3zs Thank you very much!
If you want your knife Target for your throwing knives use some waterproof stain
Excellent building video! Thanks! What brand is your throwing knives?
I’ve had a few. My favorite are the sog fling. Good price point and they seem to tolerate abuse better than others. I’m a big fan of the para cord wrapped handles. They don’t ricochet quite as bad.
@@RC-rl3zs Thanks for the info! I will check them out.
Slick throwing, and beautiful craftsmanship!
Won't the screws damage your knifes?
Throwing knives receive lots of damage. Hitting other knives, smacking the target at a bad angle, misses that wind up in the dirt or rock.
But as far as the screws go, the 5 1/2in blocks are plenty of separation between to avoid hitting them. However, once the target is worn down enough it’s possible to make contact. It would take a lot of throwing to get to that point.
I WANNA SEE A KNIFE THROWING CHANNEL TAKE 20 KNIVES AND THROW ONE TAKE A STEP BACK, ETC AND HIT EVERY KNIFE... WILL IT HAPPEN? OR DO YOU ONLY THROW AT ONE DISTANCE?
Good job brother.
I have a question please, is there a certain knife or knife specially designed for throwing?
I’m not a knife maker but I’m a big fan of the SOG fling knives. They suit me because I throw knives the traditional way. No spin throwing has grown in popularity and there are different styles of knives that work better for that. You can practice with almost any knife. Even a butter knife with the right target. Don’t throw any knives that you don’t want to get messed up.
Knife throwing is now an organized sport through the World Knife Throwing League, a division of the World Axe Throwing League. You generally want to buy a knife that is one solid piece because knives with part tend to break pretty easily. Some are as simple as cut out of sheet metal.
Awesome video! How long were your 2x6 for the frame?
I don’t recall. I measured and cut the frame after I positioned the blocks to desired size.
What kind of wood are you using for the 4x6 blocks?
Pressure treated pine
I doubt anyone will see this, but is there a specific type of wood that is better, or just any wood?
I’m using the end grain of pressure treated yellow pine. Softer woods like pine, spruce, poplar make for a better knife and hatchet throwing. I’ve used hardwoods like oak and it works but you may need to throw with a little more force.
@@RC-rl3zs thank you so much!
It also matters if it is a plank target or and end grain. If you have the skill to make an end grain target, you will be much better off.
Thank you for the informative video! I really love that target design! I'm going to thumbs up and subscribe to help support your channel! I'm planning on trying that design in the spring as I really need a good target! Thanks again!
Why did you start the screws with a hammer????
It’s just an easy way to get the screws started. Often times on plywood like that the screws can have a difficult time biting.
@@RC-rl3zs yeah but my dad is a carpenter and it just triggers me
😱
Not everyone has a carpenter's garage
Those back screws are waaay to long, if not careful with the wear of the wooden block, your bound to hit them with your knives and damage the knives!
If they are 3" screws, he should be pretty much ok. Unless, he allows one area to get a three inch pit carved in it.
And I thought you were going to throw your leg 😔. 😊
Hahaha
Why predrill the holes?? waste of time...just run the screws in!
Complete waste of time screwing into end grain