Shocking Reveal: My Forged Damascus This Week
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- Опубліковано 22 лют 2024
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Join us on an epic journey as we embark on the creation of our most ambitious project yet - the "Griffin" sword! This legendary blade, inspired by the mythical creature, will take approximately 7 months to craft and will be the most intricate and advanced sword I've ever forged. Follow our progress as we meticulously design, forge, and perfect this awe-inspiring sword, and witness the birth of a true masterpiece. Don't miss a single update on this incredible adventure - subscribe now and be a part of the "Griffin" sword's story!
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Watch pt. 1 • Forging A 20-Pound Min...
Watch pt. 3 • Unveiling My 53k Layer...
Watch Part 4 • Sword Break or Bend? Q...
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Never get sick of watching this dude smash metal. Hard to even comprehend some of the things he comes up with. True fine art. That you can go to battle with. Nice.
It would be great to see a clip of dad making the new forge…looks awesome
It's great to see the love in your family.
Fantastic damascus, btw!
Cant make a truly awesome sword without fun and dorky humor. Gotta love this guy and his passion! He's an inspiration! And he deserves all the success. Keep rocking Kyle! 🎉
When tig welding a large billet of high carbon steel it should help to heat the parts before welding. When welding the surrounding material quickly sucks the heat out of the weld making it really hard. heating up the weld with a toach after welding making it cool slower also helps prevent cracking.
also if going for complete penetration he should consider using a backing purge plate. It makes a huge difference.
Agreed, preheat and after heat to around 600f is usually necessary with high carbon steel. Especially when the object is large. Stresses in the heat affected zone due to the rapid cooling and hardening make the steel brittle and prone to cracking.
I was gonna say the same thing. Read my mind
No doubt, foot peddle extensions are definitely in order. Papa Royer get on that please!
I can't believe he didn't rig something up to extend the peddles. Seems like a fairly easy task with everything he has at his disposal.
Those pedals honestly look so crazy to me. I’m not very knowledgeable about presses like this but I’m surprised they don’t have just one pedal that makes it go down when activated and up when not. Seems like it would take away a ton of the awkwardness of the whole process
@@dabearsfan9 You can build it. Log splitters do it. The issue is you need to make the return height adjustable. You do not want it to return way above the work only to have to wait for it to come back down when you stop. It would not be hard to do though. I would put the return on a solenoid valve and use a adjustable limit switch to stop it at what ever height I want.
I was thinking along kind of same but just change the hydraulic valve/splitter block to a solenoid activated and can run with foot switches wherever you need.
29:31
Me: "Quite the handsome looking billet."
Kyle: "That looks kinda nasty"
Me: "Disgusting."
I always agreed with your expert opinion since the beginning...lol
I really like this longer video style. I’m also enjoying all the little extra personal moments and cool shots. It’s so professional and high quality. The all around progression is really cool to see.
I absolutely love how your family are so close ❤ Angie
In the future, stitch weld the seam, cool and clean it, then finish weld the gaps. This will keep your welds from cracking, and will even the weld stress on the base metal.
Thank you for bringing us along on another masterpiece.
I personally have never seen another builder that produces the level of quality that you do. And I watch a lot of builders.
Have you ever looked into induction forging? I have often wondered if it would be possible to do any serious forging/smiting in an oxygen-free environment, which I believe could be made possible using a partioned space filled with an inert gas (like argon) and an induction forge. If you could sequester all the necessary equipment in such a space, and manipulate the equipment via sealed gloves (as is done in a sand-blasting cabinet), you could accomplish some truly unique work. Imagine not having to worry about oxidization at any point, from forging your billet, through to heat treatment! No forge scale, no oxide causing failed welds, no need to grind or sand after heat-cycles, etc. I think there's a chance such a set-up could revolutionize blacksmithing.
You should look into glass blowing. They handle front loaded heavy equipment like this all day. Maybe if you copy some of their techniques, you can handle even stuff.
Pre heat your metal before welding to avoid those cracks.
My rule of thumb is anything over 3/4 and thicker, pre heat.
Stacking those billets together definitely counts as a pre heat situation. Just some advice from a welder and a fan of your metal work and videos. Your awesome, keep it sharp!!!!
Ps. I just started, first time ever with a railroad spike today.
It's great. Thanks again for the inspiration
Your pattern vision is incredible Kyle. Feels like I’ve been watching you work for a lifetime and I love it. ❤👍🏼👊🏼
Yes preheat the billet before welding to avoid the layers pooping apart no matter how much filler you use it’ll probably still pop
The layers of 15N20 really make those layers look like a banner waving in the wind. AMAZING!
Dang! We got part 2 already! Thank you
Next time you put the billet on the end of the stick it might help to put a chunk of scrap on the other end to help counter balance the weight.
I must say you're a really skilled forger making such beautiful Damascus patterns.
Love to see that you use Grizzly equipment. I am a custom furniture maker in Phoenix AZ and I use lots of Grizzly tools for my craft as well
Would it help you handle heavy billets if you added a counter-weight to the end of your handle, kind of like a pommel? It would at least balance it a little better.
For those larger billets, if you preheat the billet prior to welding it should reduce or solve the joint cracking.
You're such an artist Mr. Royer.. friggin phenomenal work sir
Hey Kyle,.. To potentially solve the problem of pedal reach, you might try cutting notches in a couple 1 ft lengths of 2x4 to slide over the pedals.
The patterns Kyle makes is insane. I understand them and the process…… but the thought that he thought all the steps through with success with the pattern is insane. Makes my brain hurt trying to figure it out just by a picture of the final pattern.
Idk why, but the "shiny when you wire wheel it" is my favorite repetitive joke lmao. I forget which blade you said that over and over on lol. This is going to be awesome, bud. I cant wait to see it when you're donen
Awesome work my friend! To help from cracking when welding large blocks of steel, just pre heat it a little. Don’t take much heat but it will prevent the cold billet from sucking the heat from the weld location and crack. Love your work my friend!
Funny thing. Back in the when I worked in the steel industry, our hardest material to coldmill was T61 and softest was T52. And I held at that time the word record for thinnest coldmilled steel at 0.08mm thick. Aliminumfoil is 0.05, and is double layerd to get that thickness. We milled 1/3 of the coil and ended up with almost 11 000 meters of coldmilled steel.
Kyle. Please consider making some pedal extensions that you can put on and take off as needed. A slip on fit with a set screw should do. You were too uncomfortable doing that billet.
Incredible pattern! I look forward to seeing the blade completed.
The welds are cracking for multiple reasons. One is because of the thermal mass of the billet is cooling the weld very quickly and cracking it. The solution is to preheat the whole billet and let it cool slowly. The other is as you found out the 15n20 weld is super hard so it’s super brittle. The forging looks amazing by the way.
If you're having issues with cracking you can either pre-heat the pieces to reduce the severity of heat deformation.
I bought four of these on Amazon, to line the bottom of my 4-burner forge. They don't take up much space, and they work like a charm to keep the flux off the bottom. And, they're cheap enough to be sacrificial. (Amaco Kiln Shelf for Model 62 EFC - 6" x 6", Rectangle)
You could try adding pedal extensions to your press. Might help with the longer billets on swords.
Good luck with that project. Can’t wait to see next one. God bless you and your beautiful family. Tnx for sharing.
42:03 Imagine welding them together, then drill a circular hole in the middle and weld in the inside a circular damasco metal bar😮. To be fair that flower looks awesome 😎
5:43 Kyle always looks like he working on an old Singer sewing machine. I can't believe he hasn't developed a single-foot pedal mechanism.
Love these long format videos with all the real moments in the shop. Good to know you're having fun while working so hard on these masterpieces!
I love long formate videos like this man! Awsome seeing all the progress on this big piece
Kyle,
Using CA glue (actually any glue) between the layers of steel significantly weakens the final weld. The reason for this is that glue introduces nitrogen, carbon (graphite), oxygen, and hydrogen impurities into the weld area. In fact, as the glue heats up it will release a small amount of water, CO, CO2, and even a tiny amount of NOS - in fact those gases were what was causing your welds to pop. The hydrogen embrittles the steel and won't go away because the atoms are so small that they fit between the metallic atoms (an interstitial impurity). The only good news is that the graphite (carbon) from the glue will break down and diffuse through the steel.
When you first started heating this billet, you where heating it too fast, which put additional stress on the welds. Generally, larger the cross-section of the billet slower the heating. In fact, using your annealing oven to pre-heat (to around 1100 F) the billet over an hour, or so, before heating to welding temps should eliminate most of your problems with popping TIG welds.
Your family is awesome. It’s lovely to see!
I've watched up to 13:08 and as a material science background that worked in aerospace engineering for a bit and evaluated metallography...I can GUARANTEE you your weld line is stronger (meaning, much smaller grain size) than the surrounding/parent material. Welds are ALWAYS stronger than surrounding material, it requires proper welding technique to not introduce voids etc, that then compromise that weld line before the surrounding material is compromised. I am basically saying...A properly done weld should NEVER fail before surrounding material does, and it's partly because you have such a small grain size to the crystallography occurring (of course this depends on stresses, you are making a stronger but more brittle area, but usually the amount of energy to create a brittle fracture in the weld...it will have resulted in failured elsewhere prior). That's a lot of 'energy' to overcome (it's kind of similar to the surface area with water tension concept?) More surface area, harder to release, if that makes sense...you're trying to slide all of those atoms past each other that are locked into a 'happy' place currently. But of course, poor welding technique and introduction of inclusions or bubbles (gas) will ultimately result in a failure initiating from those sites.
Easily top 3 bladesmith in the world. And he's doing it in a garage, not a highend machine shop. So Kyle the goat to me.
This is my favorite pattern you've made so far! ❤❤❤❤❤ Totally worth all the work you put into it. Wonderful handiwork! Your skill and attention to detail is marvelous!
MASTER KYLE! Thanks for all the inspiration. ANd Your way showing Your mistakes is so so nice, and gives hope that I will once can be better later!
Awesome, love your work . The support from your family is outstanding. Looking forward to the next instalment.
You are one of the only reasons why UA-cam should exist!
What a workout!
You will be able to swing that sword around with ease once it’s done.
I recently stumbled upon your channel and it has been super inspiring to see your level of craftmanship. Even though I work with a different kind of material (wood, I make guitars as a luthier student), one can aprreciate the skill and time invested that has gotten you that far! I hope I'll one day be as good in my craft as well :) I am certainly looking forward to seeing more of your epic creations!
Also, it is trule heartwarming to see what kind of a relationship you have with your family. Seeing you hug and kiss goodbuy at the end of the day really gives me joy and makes me see you and your craft in a very positive way. I also enjoy your joyful style, seems like you're really having the best time making these projects and that's what it is all about! Like said, can't wait to see what you come up with next!
To help re squaring on wierd angles, could you weld a crosspiece on the handle at the new angle, to give u a solid reference for what flat is?
I just can't comprehend how you keep outdoing yourself. Each new project just blows my mind even more than the last.❤
Someday I would love to attend one of your classes on patterned Damascus! It's all so amazing!
Your a madman! All that work! Bravo!
You have damascus patterns down so incredibly. It's insane.
That is a beautiful pattern!❤
So excited for this build the Damascus looks truly amazing
Incredible work, thanks for sharing.
Looking excellent! Try stainless Tig filler, it helps prevent cracking a little better than carbon or mild steel when welding carbon steel. It's also nice and easy to see when you're grinding it out later
Great pattern! This is a work of art in the making, and I can barely wait to see the finished piece
Thanks for sharing.
I love (enjoy greatly) watching you work; not because I learn tricks of the trade to make me a better maker of cutlery, nor will I ever have the funds that would allow me to purchase one of your works of art (although I would if I could).. No, I am enthralled by your joy of creation, and your glee of Ex nihilo development. Thank you.
Its really nice seeing the love you're family shares with each other. Thats how i am with my kids. Its sad to say but i dont think enough families do.
I've discovered that I tend to learn so many things that I never knew that I've always wanted to know . I do absolutely love this channel!
Really interesting to hear you talk about the scale. Every video like this I watch I wonder about that. Thanks!
Gosh amazing piece, but also your relationship with your parents is so wholesome 🥺 Fantastic work man well done!!!!
Amazement bordered upon stupification. Thank you for letting me walk through your garden.
Really enjoying this build - its gonna be magnificent!
You should think of adding a chain support from the roof to help hold the weight of the bar as you move it. There can be a chain on either side of the press to hold both ends.
Also, design a quick attachment for the pedals so that you can increase the distance from the press.
Weld a slight counter weight on the back of the handle. It should make holding the other end up easier.
i love the mosaic pattern,it seems to be very labor intense but makes for a beautiful pattern
The reason your welds are cracking is not because you've overheated it. The reason is two-fold. First, it's stainless. Stainless contracts viciously while it's cooling. Second, you're not using filler so the weld is extremely thin. You will find there is very little penetration with that style of weld. Another reason that you're partly correct about is the size of the billet. It's acting like a gigantic heat sink and sucking the heat out of the weld almost as fast as you're putting it in. If you preheat your pieces to about 350 degrees prior to welding, you will have a much better result. You can buy a "tempstick" that will help you hit the right preheat temp. It's essentially a crayon that won't write until you get the correct temperature. Once you reach the 350 mark the tempstick begins leaving traces that show up easily. You can buy them in many grades of temperatures. 350 should be sufficient for what you're doing.
Hi Kyle, I love the work you do, you have been one of the most precious inspirations here on YT for me. If I may, I would like to have a humble comment on the hardness testing you performed after welding the 15n20. After setting the initial pre-load on the HRC tester, you should zero it out (i.e. place the C on the dial in line with the indicator needle). You had it offset approximately 27 points. Had you zeroed it, the resulting hardness of the welded bead would be roughly 37 HRC (which is still harder than a steel in a soft-annealed state, I would say the as-came material is 20-30 HRC). 15N20 is not highly alloyed with elements like Cr, V, Mo, W or Nb and thus is not air-hardening, so I am really dubious about the fact it could achieve 64 HRC just by cooling in the still air. However, to make the properties more even across the whole welded bar, maybe you could utilise normalisation annealing to make the grain structure more even and refined and then soft annealing to make the carbides globular and the steel as soft as it can get. Anyway, keep up the great work, to me you are one of the best knife makers I have seen on YT!
Loving this series! Can’t to see how it turns out.
His ability to understand and predict how damascus will turn out is truely amazing. I've watched my far share of smiths working on demascus, but none of them have ever predicted their pattern nearly as accuratly.
🏆⚔Kyle Royer 🥇Every piece you make is a work of art and you are the best at forging such incredibly beautiful figures in Damascus steel. Swords, knives and razors worthy of Kings.
Love watching you work.
That is insanely good! Amazing skill.
Got to be one of the most talented humans living at his trade.
Amazing how you make these patterns the way you want in steel.
Oh fantastic so glad I came on UA-cam to see this ,,,can't wait to see this beautiful sword 😍..Angie in Scotland
Great work as always Kyle,the damascus is looking amazing...🤯 Keep going dude,fantastic process!💪🏻
1 000 000 subscribers on this channel till the end of the year
please and thank you!
Kyle, a trick / tip for longer welds that I have seen on heavy equipment repairs, run your weld in small increments of the whole length, jumping the same increment size between welds. do 1 line on one side in this way, flip billet and weld the furthest join in the same pattern, but have the welds where the gaps would be on the first. work your way through each section needing welds with a break to let it cool between sections before going back and finishing the first line of weld by filling the gaps.
this lets the billet equalize the heat and leaves spaces where it doesn't seal until it has cooled down. if a billet is 12 inches 6 2 inch welds done in sets of 3 or other size increments to suit the billet.
That’s a great way to keep a part from bending not cracking
@@alanray3687it's also heat management, which controls the stress cracking the welds themselves.
Yes when your adding filler rod I would agree with you 100%.
He is fussing without filler.
Heating the billet and keeping it hot stops the billet from cooling the weld too fast causing cracks.
Those are some wonderful, loving parents you have there, sir.
Have you considered adding a counter weight to the end it would add some weight but may be easier to handle
it look incredibly incredible,.,..Tkzz for sharing,.,.peace
👍👍👍👍👍😊😊😊 Thank you ! Wish you all the best and keep forging !
next time you weld something that big, heat it up first, then you won't have the same expansion problems because it will already be in an expanded state
One possible solution is to make strip sections to make up the floor. Thus reducing the amount of surface tension so it won’t crack up like it does if you make it a large section. Also trying to mix it up with a minimal amount of water so it comes out more solid and uniform but I am not sure about its ability to withstand the heat if you do that. Not familiar with it full composition. Just a thought.
Have you considered coating the floor of you forge in Bubble Alumina? I've had mine coated for about a year now and it is just now starting to need replacement. it resists the flux really well and is pretty easy to apply.
That slow motion shot of the forge welding was awesome
I can’t wait to see the end result of this it’s going to be amazing! You sir are a true artist
this comes from someone who works as a welder. the reason the welds pop for you on thoose billets come from that the material is to cold when you weld them. so what you can do to prevent the welds from cracking is to preheat a bit and then weld it. that should prevent your welds from cracking becuse that is what we do when we weld thicker/bigger pieces
Ember cup is the best thing for coffee lovers its a cup that keeps your coffee at a temperature that you set between 120 and 145 degrees
You're an outstanding blacksmith, immaculate work as always
Clamp you a couple of metal bars on your press pedals to extend them out. For easier use. God bless
Might need a pre and post heat in order to weld the high carbon steels and keep them from cracking.
Hi Kyle! Loving these videos!
That is going to be one awesome sword, i can already tell.
Also, i get really joyful seeing how loving this family is, dad, mom, brother, and ofc Kyle, such a special family. (am i missing someone to praise?)
On to the next episode! can't wait.
I don't find myself watching hour long UA-cam videos much but this is just so damn interesting to watch! Your explanations are excellent and really makes me wish I had this amount of skill to do this. Cheers from Australia