I love my beam scale. Nothing wrong with the electronic scales and even scale/dispenser combos, your method is fast and accurate without the $ spent. Love this series 👍
I love the balance beam as well - I have a camera hooked to a computer screen so that I get a big picture of the scale (my eyes aren't what they used to be!!!!) I absolutely love this series - very thorough and informative.
Love my RCBS M500. I'm sure high-end digital scales are great but I'll take a $100 beam scale over a $100 digital scale any day. My scale sits on a shelf at eye level and I need reading glasses to see it well. Still better than watching a digital scale drift.
I just wanted to say I really enjoy your videos and that they inspired me to get into handloading. I've been doing it a little over a year now and have been having a lot of fun! Thank you again and God bless.
I'm new to using extruded powders and just learned from you to pout the powder on the side of the funnel to allow it to swirl it's way to joy. Would sometimes bunch up on me and it never occurred to me...try something else. I like my Lyman Brass Smith balance beam scale and dial calipers. They're accurate and don't need batteries or 120v. Thank you very much for making this series again.
I usually have 2 of my beam scales (5-0-5, 5-10, 10-10)and a small digital range scale setup when reloading(OCD). I use a Ohaus 7200 and a RCBS Uniflow (rifle/pistol) powder measure. Forester makes a wonderful funnel with a drop tube. I'm the same way with flat based bullets. Always enjoy your videos, thanks for the continued education.
I just stumbled across your videos tonight, I've been scrolling through (I think?) 8 so far, starting from 6 years ago, and you have aged quite well since. Myself. I started HANDLOADING, (I much prefer the term over "reloading" because many people think it conveys inferior, and amateur results) but you might even use the term, Custom Handloading because your product is designed for your firearm, and specifically, for precision rifle handloading. The rifle might be, at least more accurate than any handgun by a factor of at least ten, and arguably a lot more. I started with a Lee Loader for my 270W '98 Mauser. That is a relatively high performance cartridge, and since I was hunting coyotes, I soon found out about case stretching and so I was forced to "get real" and buy a press, and a scale, and here we are 55 years later and I load for more than 25 calibers including a few handguns, and some day I just might buy dies for 25ACP and 32ACP, since I have threatened to do so for many years. Who knows? But, that's the only guns in my safe that have never seen a factory round. Oops, I mean except for 9mm! I handload for my XD9 and also shoot factory cartridges, just to be completely accurate. What I spend most of my time on is high performance, from 223Ackley Improved and 243Ackley Improved, and I still use my1975 Ruger Model 77 chambered in 220Swift and I have several Model 700's, including a custom 300WM in a MCMillen stock, so I've been there, and done that. I guess, in establishing my bonafides, I just would like to compliment the gentleman here for some fine information, and presented in a folksy way, but he does indeed seem to know what he is talking about, of that, I have no doubt. I thought it was amusing when he showed his RCBS powder trickler with the leaded bottom and with the clear silicone to hold it in place, just like I did with mine, probably fifty years ago. I think I might even have a few years on you, sir? Anyway, thanks for the effort and good luck! I'll be back to review the accuracy videos, soon. El Bee
I load all of my ammunition, from BPCR for my antique Whitney Kennedy to modern accuracy chasing loads for my Ruger HLRT. I do have great fondness for the .270, though my favorite cartridges are the 6.5x55 Swede and 7mm Mauser. For loading smokeless powder for rifles, I prefer to drop low and trickle up on the balance beam as you have just shown. I do not understand the recent popularity in electronic powder measures. Why anyone would invest all the time in perfecting an accurate load to trust the single most important factor on a digital machine is beyond me. Thank you for this series.
Great video. My buddy has a Model 70 Featherweight in 270 that really likes 130 Partitions and 54.5 grains of IMR 4350. He’s used it to kill quite a few mulies, Texas whitetails and pronghorns. I’m looking forward to more videos on reloading.
IMR4350 @ 72.5 Gr was the load the he shot from out of a 300WM. It was a custom rifle he built in the '60's. 180 grain bullet, accuracy was incredible. I bought a 300 WM and mine strung them left to right. After a good gunsmith tuned it, it shoots great. I shoot IMR7828 mostly and works awesome.
I use the same system to set up my powder meters. I showed it to my mentor that taught me to handload. (1975) He thought that was genius! I've never discouraged his opinions.😉
Mr. GunBlue - I have tried several times to subscribe to Patreon. I have gone through the process and became a doner but all I get is a note that this site has not posted yet. I know that’s wrong but I can’t seem to get past that. What can I do to correct this. Great info and presentation. Thank You Richard
Thank you sir. IMR 4350 is supposedly very close to Hodgedon H4350 but is reported by some to be more temperature sensitive. I was thinking of getting some of this IMR4350 for my own 270 deer hunting loads and my favorite Nosler Partition hunting bullet. I will watch with great interest!
My buddy use IMR 4350 in his 270. He hunts pronghorns in New Mexico in late summer and very early fall as well as mulies in late November. He always checks his zero before each hunt and never has an issue. Summer temps can be in the low to mid eighties and November temps can easily be in the low twenties or high teens. Best of luck in the field.
What works for me is I turn the case upside down so I know what cases have powder and what ones dose not. Also I take a sharpie and color code the primers and put the same color on my paper to know what one has what charge in it just incase the cartridge got mix up for some reason . Also know more for when you want to check the primers for over pressure . It works for me. I like the idea for the pad.
thank you, so my 6.5 cr measures almost .200 ths from factory ammo col to rifling. so, do i just load bullet as long as i can, then work col shorter to find best group? or start at factory length and work out longer? i have a new rem 700 6.5cr cdl ,,,, just wanting to work up a bench load to learn for fun. thank you
As with any scale, a pre-check should always be done to ensure true measurements. However, balance beams are only calibrated at the factory and can't change unless damaged or tampered with. Once factory calibrated, the beam will always seek level when the counterbalance weights are set to zero. However, the base can be on an inclined surface that places its center mark off. The foot is adjusted to bring the dead center mark in line with the beam. Balance scales that are permanently positioned as this one is on a flat and secure base simply don't change, though prudence dictates that a pre-check be performed.
@@GunBlue490 Thanks for your response- I was curious about this because I'm using a very similar scale. I trust gravity more than any electrical means.
I prefer a beam scale as well. No batteries or electrical things to worry about. I predominantly load handgun cartridges, so seeing that much powder being added is kind of hilarious. Otherwise good info.
Not really. Unless its less than 15 or 20 cycles of the arm, the fastest means is to unscrew it and dump it, using a wide mouth funnel. Some folks ream the threads of the stand smooth and secure the measure with a lock ring, but that requires a wrench to tighten and loosen each time, which is just as time consuming.
I love my beam scale. Nothing wrong with the electronic scales and even scale/dispenser combos, your method is fast and accurate without the $ spent. Love this series 👍
Very good. A long term tried and true technique for accurate powder dispensing. Simple and effective. Thank you
I love the balance beam as well - I have a camera hooked to a computer screen so that I get a big picture of the scale (my eyes aren't what they used to be!!!!) I absolutely love this series - very thorough and informative.
That's a great idea I had to ditch the beam scales because it was getting hard to see the needle and the line.
@@echota23 it has made such a difference
Love my RCBS M500. I'm sure high-end digital scales are great but I'll take a $100 beam scale over a $100 digital scale any day. My scale sits on a shelf at eye level and I need reading glasses to see it well. Still better than watching a digital scale drift.
The enjoyment of reloading! I love to see the old cases and components come together and fill an ammo box.
I just wanted to say I really enjoy your videos and that they inspired me to get into handloading. I've been doing it a little over a year now and have been having a lot of fun! Thank you again and God bless.
Having the scales at eye level is a great idea. Thanks, I'm always learning from your sharing.
Thank You for the Xtra Tips on the Powder Measure!
I'm new to using extruded powders and just learned from you to pout the powder on the side of the funnel to allow it to swirl it's way to joy. Would sometimes bunch up on me and it never occurred to me...try something else. I like my Lyman Brass Smith balance beam scale and dial calipers. They're accurate and don't need batteries or 120v. Thank you very much for making this series again.
Another great video in this series! Thank you!
I usually have 2 of my beam scales (5-0-5, 5-10, 10-10)and a small digital range scale setup when reloading(OCD). I use a Ohaus 7200 and a RCBS Uniflow (rifle/pistol) powder measure. Forester makes a wonderful funnel with a drop tube. I'm the same way with flat based bullets. Always enjoy your videos, thanks for the continued education.
I just stumbled across your videos tonight, I've been scrolling through (I think?) 8 so far, starting from 6 years ago, and you have aged quite well since. Myself. I started HANDLOADING, (I much prefer the term over "reloading" because many people think it conveys inferior, and amateur results) but you might even use the term, Custom Handloading because your product is designed for your firearm, and specifically, for precision rifle handloading. The rifle might be, at least more accurate than any handgun by a factor of at least ten, and arguably a lot more.
I started with a Lee Loader for my 270W '98 Mauser. That is a relatively high performance cartridge, and since I was hunting coyotes, I soon found out about case stretching and so I was forced to "get real" and buy a press, and a scale, and here we are 55 years later and I load for more than 25 calibers including a few handguns, and some day I just might buy dies for 25ACP and 32ACP, since I have threatened to do so for many years. Who knows? But, that's the only guns in my safe that have never seen a factory round. Oops, I mean except for 9mm! I handload for my XD9 and also shoot factory cartridges, just to be completely accurate.
What I spend most of my time on is high performance, from 223Ackley Improved and 243Ackley Improved, and I still use my1975 Ruger Model 77 chambered in 220Swift and I have several Model 700's, including a custom 300WM in a MCMillen stock, so I've been there, and done that.
I guess, in establishing my bonafides, I just would like to compliment the gentleman here for some fine information, and presented in a folksy way, but he does indeed seem to know what he is talking about, of that, I have no doubt. I thought it was amusing when he showed his RCBS powder trickler with the leaded bottom and with the clear silicone to hold it in place, just like I did with mine, probably fifty years ago.
I think I might even have a few years on you, sir? Anyway, thanks for the effort and good luck! I'll be back to review the accuracy videos, soon.
El Bee
I load all of my ammunition, from BPCR for my antique Whitney Kennedy to modern accuracy chasing loads for my Ruger HLRT. I do have great fondness for the .270, though my favorite cartridges are the 6.5x55 Swede and 7mm Mauser. For loading smokeless powder for rifles, I prefer to drop low and trickle up on the balance beam as you have just shown. I do not understand the recent popularity in electronic powder measures. Why anyone would invest all the time in perfecting an accurate load to trust the single most important factor on a digital machine is beyond me. Thank you for this series.
Great video. My buddy has a Model 70 Featherweight in 270 that really likes 130 Partitions and 54.5 grains of IMR 4350. He’s used it to kill quite a few mulies, Texas whitetails and pronghorns. I’m looking forward to more videos on reloading.
IMR4350 @ 72.5 Gr was the load the he shot from out of a 300WM. It was a custom rifle he built in the '60's. 180 grain bullet, accuracy was incredible. I bought a 300 WM and mine strung them left to right. After a good gunsmith tuned it, it shoots great. I shoot IMR7828 mostly and works awesome.
I use the same system to set up my powder meters. I showed it to my mentor that taught me to handload. (1975) He thought that was genius! I've never discouraged his opinions.😉
😄.....Maybe Benny is reminding of a cigar by the shed again?
Just watching you is cathartic
Mr. GunBlue - I have tried several times to subscribe to Patreon. I have gone through the process and became a doner but all I get is a note that this site has not posted yet. I know that’s wrong but I can’t seem to get past that. What can I do to correct this. Great info and presentation. Thank You Richard
Thank you sir. IMR 4350 is supposedly very close to Hodgedon H4350 but is reported by some to be more temperature sensitive. I was thinking of getting some of this IMR4350 for my own 270 deer hunting loads and my favorite Nosler Partition hunting bullet. I will watch with great interest!
I've never experienced temperature sensitivity with any single base powder. The IMR series has won matches for decades.
My buddy use IMR 4350 in his 270. He hunts pronghorns in New Mexico in late summer and very early fall as well as mulies in late November. He always checks his zero before each hunt and never has an issue. Summer temps can be in the low to mid eighties and November temps can easily be in the low twenties or high teens. Best of luck in the field.
I use the camera on an old smartphone aimed at the scale's pointer. I zoom in and watch the screen as I trickle up to the proper weight.
What works for me is I turn the case upside down so I know what cases have powder and what ones dose not. Also I take a sharpie and color code the primers and put the same color on my paper to know what one has what charge in it just incase the cartridge got mix up for some reason . Also know more for when you want to check the primers for over pressure . It works for me. I like the idea for the pad.
i honestly hope jack o conner does not haunt your bed chambers going away from 4831 "ha ha"
I have had some dream episodes. 🤣
Notes should include bullet weight along with type.
I really enjoy your videos, but I don’t think I’ve ever heard your name. Would you mind sharing your name?
My Lee Perfect powder measure. Drops most powders within .2 grains. No need to trickle for most loads.
thank you, so my 6.5 cr measures almost .200 ths from factory ammo col to rifling. so, do i just load bullet as long as i can, then work col shorter to find best group? or start at factory length and work out longer? i have a new rem 700 6.5cr cdl ,,,, just wanting to work up a bench load to learn for fun. thank you
Just to be sure, that large canister of powder is 32 years old ?
The balance scale- should that not be set to zero and calibration verified using the thumb screw on the bottom left foot each time before use?
As with any scale, a pre-check should always be done to ensure true measurements. However, balance beams are only calibrated at the factory and can't change unless damaged or tampered with. Once factory calibrated, the beam will always seek level when the counterbalance weights are set to zero. However, the base can be on an inclined surface that places its center mark off. The foot is adjusted to bring the dead center mark in line with the beam. Balance scales that are permanently positioned as this one is on a flat and secure base simply don't change, though prudence dictates that a pre-check be performed.
@@GunBlue490 Thanks for your response- I was curious about this because I'm using a very similar scale. I trust gravity more than any electrical means.
Thank you
I prefer a beam scale as well. No batteries or electrical things to worry about. I predominantly load handgun cartridges, so seeing that much powder being added is kind of hilarious. Otherwise good info.
So far i do the same as you ty
When throwing the "settling" charges from the meter you can kill two birds with one stone and fill the trickler.
great info and teckneake
Do you have a tip for emptying out the unused powder that you did not dispense?
Not really. Unless its less than 15 or 20 cycles of the arm, the fastest means is to unscrew it and dump it, using a wide mouth funnel. Some folks ream the threads of the stand smooth and secure the measure with a lock ring, but that requires a wrench to tighten and loosen each time, which is just as time consuming.
Nice!
👍
🙂👍
Thank yo
32 year old jug???You must not shoot very much, a 8lb jug doesnt last long at my house. A 1lb jug is almost a joke!😉
Good knowledge, but outdated…sorry. I don’t mean to be mean but technology has gotten so far that there are better methods now.