Discovery 2 TD5 Engine Mounting Change.

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  • Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
  • Seemed simple enough, two bolts and a nut. Unfortunately, I was the biggest nut! Many mistakes were made.

КОМЕНТАРІ • 24

  • @keithpattison6763
    @keithpattison6763 3 роки тому

    Derek, my 2003 TD5 felt rough when driving, so I had the local LR repair shop replace them for me. I had a car account with my salary (before retiring) so could afford to have it done. It looks fairly oily under there, as was mine. I found that all of the sump bolts were loose, with some missing. Tightened them up with some replacements and now very few leaks. One thing you must check, if you are not aware of it, is the double cardan joint on the front prop shaft. The uni joints usually have no grease nipples, run dry and can let go. A friend had his let go at 100kmh, which did considerable damage underneath. After that, I replaced all UJ´s on mine, C/W grease nipples.

    • @sleepycatpictures1176
      @sleepycatpictures1176  3 роки тому

      Cheers Keith! Most of my oil came from the rubber camshaft plug at the front of the head. The front prop shaft is relatively new, so somebody has done that for me. I did check it before purchase and the drive home. I can't imagine the damage if that lets go!

  • @tomasgomez9175
    @tomasgomez9175 3 роки тому

    La única forma de cambiar los soportes del Motor con silenblocks es con dos carretillas elevadoras hidraúlicas , como tu lo estás haciendo . Intenta utilizar tablas de madera más gruesas para evitar los fallos de deslizamiento del soporte , que no sean varias tablas , solo una gruesa .en las carretillas elevadoras ponle sus tacos de goma para que no se resbalen las tablas . El motor tiene que quedar apoyado en las tablas para poder retirar las tuercas sin presión de peso y así poder cambiar los soportes Silenblocks . Eres un bigman . Ojalá yo fuera como tu . Saludos Derek .

    • @sleepycatpictures1176
      @sleepycatpictures1176  3 роки тому +1

      Hola Tomas!
      ¡Más como un estúpido! Hubiera sido más fácil quitar todos los pernos y cambiar ambos soportes al mismo tiempo. En lugar de hacer girar el motor, eso terminó sucediendo. ¡Disminuye aprendido! ¡El lado del conductor uno debería ser más fácil la próxima vez!
      Aflojaré todos los tornillos para que el motor se levante de manera uniforme.
      Comencé todo esto debido a una vibración cuando el motor estaba bajo carga, pero se detenía cuando giraba por inercia o en marcha. Supuse que eso significaba que los soportes del motor permitían que el motor se moviera demasiado y debían cambiarlo. Además, justo debajo de la manguera turbo inferior está el borde de una moldura de plástico que había estado tocando, lo que le da peso a mi argumento de que el motor estaba más bajo de lo que debería estar. Es más alto ahora, pero la vibración aún persiste. Será necesaria más investigación cuando se cambie la segunda montura. Buenos Noches de un cálido Yorkshire!

  • @tomasgomez9175
    @tomasgomez9175 3 роки тому

    Hola Derek , viendo el vídeo de tu reparación , al principio observo que a la Tapa de Plástico del Bloque motor (La careta negra del Bloque) le falta un tornillo en su lado derecho , tu lo tienes cogido con una presilla de plástico , en la Tapa negra de plástico del Radiador y Correa le falta un Tornillo negro con arandela esclava . Cuando tu le has cambiado los Soportes del Motor (Silenblocks) nuevos y sigue el ruido y vibraciones , intenta poner estos dos tornillos y vas eliminando posibilidades . (Los tornillos lo puedes encontrar en Gentlemen and Salvage Ltd. ) . Yo perdí hace años la arandela de goma de la careta negra del Bloque y no te puedes imaginar el ruido que eso producía dentro del coche a pocas revoluciones . Un Saludo muy grande desde el Sur de España a mi amigo .

    • @sleepycatpictures1176
      @sleepycatpictures1176  3 роки тому

      Hola Tomas!
      Sí, tiene usted razón. Falta el frontal porque la rosca del tornillo está rota. Lo amarré envuelto la última vez pero lo dejé por el momento porque tendré que quitarlo cuando haga el otro montaje. La vibración de esa sola cubierta es asombrosa. Tuve que atornillar la tapa de llenado de aceite debido al ruido que hacía
      ¡Que tengas una buena semana, desde 17c Yorkshire! Subiré el video de HubNut ahora.

    • @tomasgomez9175
      @tomasgomez9175 3 роки тому

      @@sleepycatpictures1176 La Tapita cuadrada negra que está en la careta del motor que da acceso al tapón de rosca amarillo de llenado de aceite de motor que tiene una cuerda para que no se pierda, cuando tiene holgura suena como una matraca y es insoportable el ruido que transmite al interior del habitáculo . Yo lo tuve que calzar con un trozo de tela de cretona antigua , sencillo o doble hasta que quede calzado .

  • @johnallen3555
    @johnallen3555 22 дні тому

    the right hand side is more difficult
    - wishing your video covered this

    • @sleepycatpictures1176
      @sleepycatpictures1176  22 дні тому +1

      To my mind. the left one was the worn one and so far, I have not got around to the right one. I reckon, unbolting the fuel cooler should leave enough room to get a long socket in there. The two are best done together to be fair otherwise there is too much twist on the engine and thus the gearbox mountings.

    • @johnallen3555
      @johnallen3555 21 день тому

      @@sleepycatpictures1176 We just completed btoth sides this morning after an utterly failed jacking session yesterday
      - trip to bunnings for timber plank ( had to cut it up at home as their cut station was broken)
      - trip to the tool shop to buy a carefully selected for max reach
      - lots of 75 thick wide pine boards ( cut from the Bunnings plank) to place under the big hyd jack
      - still ran out of travel with the big jack
      - second smaller jack on more boards to hold whilst the main jack has another board placed under it
      - It really is a 2 person job ( watching the uppers as the jacking is done carefully from below)
      -
      It is worth noting that the cast Al mount on the side of the engine block has "transversly slotted" holes that assist with tilting the mounts in and out
      I think that if the vehicle was placed with the front chassis on stands that there would be a lot ess need for a lot of jacking as the car was moving up on the suspension as the motor was jacked. (Preperation and planning hint with the benifit of hindsite)
      Thanks for your video and reply

    • @sleepycatpictures1176
      @sleepycatpictures1176  21 день тому

      @@johnallen3555 Thank you for attempting both sides! There is a lot of engine movement when jacking up. I found that!

  • @gavhuddy
    @gavhuddy 3 роки тому +1

    Engine mounts with jacks on a TD5. Brave that mate. You didn't get squashed!
    Do you want to do mine when you have a minute?!
    Another top vid👍

  • @6t1om
    @6t1om 2 місяці тому

    Hey mate did you use genuine or aftermarket ?

    • @sleepycatpictures1176
      @sleepycatpictures1176  2 місяці тому

      Ebay, so probably aftermarket.

    • @6t1om
      @6t1om 2 місяці тому

      @@sleepycatpictures1176 Mate thanks for replying, absolute legend with your videos you have helped me a lot! I have heard the aftermarket ones are really worth avoiding - how have you found yours?

    • @sleepycatpictures1176
      @sleepycatpictures1176  2 місяці тому +1

      @@6t1om The vibration I have seems to be getting worse but the gearbox mountings are up for a change. The engine mounting I changed seems to have fallen slightly so no, genuine is best. If it gets too bad, I'll slip a few washers under the mounting to lift it back up.

  • @davidheap5338
    @davidheap5338 3 роки тому +2

    You should always do them both at the same time as the engine will lift straight up alot easier than trying to twist it as you were doing with the other mount still fastened, that's why you couldn't get the Hight you needed, looking at the old mount i dont think you had much of a issue with them, the rubber still looks good and the ally guard on the top is to stop oil ingress so should be no issue with oil contamination, i would have been inclined to just cut abit more plastic off the guard s you had done before just to stop it knocking when the engine twists under load. my Defender td5 is 20yrs old too and my mounts are fine. ps, the engine will keep its alignment as its fixed at the gearbox with rubber mounts too.

    • @sleepycatpictures1176
      @sleepycatpictures1176  3 роки тому

      The plan was to do them both but I ran out of time as usual. When I do the other one, I'll slacken off the other nut so the engine can lift in the correct manner. The old mount did look okay but the new one does hold the engine higher.

  • @Slavkin2003
    @Slavkin2003 3 роки тому

    Hard Rock!👍

  • @davidduffy4924
    @davidduffy4924 3 роки тому

    You are some man if there is a hard way to do it you will lol keep up the good work

  • @deanshortland7194
    @deanshortland7194 3 роки тому

    Wow. Tough job that mate!👨‍🔧

    • @sleepycatpictures1176
      @sleepycatpictures1176  3 роки тому

      More like a rubbish job! Anyway, lessons learned for doing the other one.