They did a lot of soldering back then. If it wasn't done in a forge, a blow pipe was used with an alcohol or oil lamp. They are still used in many applications including chemical analysis. We used them in Colonial Williamsburg at the gunshop and the silversmith shop. Check out this link. It shows an Egyptian goldsmith soldering. www.pinterest.com/pin/261842165806536668/ This link is to a 19th century illustration of using a blowpipe. www.alamy.com/19th-century-illustration-of-soldering-with-the-blowpipe-frequent-operation-in-jewel-making-published-in-the-practical-magazine-an-illustrated-cy-image220825050.html
A Lovely butt,,,,,,plate indeed! My mentor was born in 1889 and so many of the important details you always point out my mentor did as well. Old school as it’s called. I’ve done many restorations of period furniture and a few flint locks along the way. I’ve restored a few pieces of furniture that were still in their original state. All the screws in hinges and hardware were in one direction. So many unseen details that one sees in restoration or in the making. And so many details not appreciated. But that’s quality. Thank You So Much for your great channel and true craftsmanship and fine art! My mentor passed in 1981 at 92. I have some tools my mentor’s mentor had given him. His mentor apprenticed for $25 a year I believe for seven years. His name was Maxwell and my mentor Groff in Lancaster County, Pa. Many Blessings, More Fine Art and I don’t need dancing girls! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Thanks for watching and the comment. I wish more young people would pickup the desire to mentor to a craftsman and continue handing down the knowledge. Too much time wasted watching their friends' posts on Tic-Toc.
@@grumpygunsmithofwilliamsburg Indeed so! Thanks Again for your knowledge and Art! And please remain the Good Grumpy Gunsmith that we Love! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Thank you! I was waiting for this one. Done a few from scratch but not this long-tang style. Interesting about the bronze castings, didn't know what alloy was being used but did notice a lot of the commercial reproductions are hard as coffin nails and much more difficult to file down than cast yellow brass. Annealing tin bronze is supposed to be simple enough but there is a very narrow temperature window where it works and I haven't tried it because I like a hard final surface...once all the file marks are out and it's DONE.
I guess I'm a traditionalist. I'll stick to soft brass whenever I can. A friend did try to anneal a bronze buttplate and when he went to reshape it, it simply broke. Must be a very critical temp if it can be annealed. Thanks.
@@grumpygunsmithofwilliamsburg from what I've been told, torch heat tin bronze in low light, heat to a faint, dull red. Any hotter and it will crystallize, any cooler and it won't anneal. I haven't tried it myself.
Thankyou Clay was hoping you would do this video sooner than later. Knew how to to do Lancaster style etc. But, was not real sure with the long tang style. Was a big help.
I wish i would have seen instructiins like this before i attempted to put a buttplate on a french fusil,guess ill have to fill finial inlet in with piece of wood and start over. Thanks as always for the instruction
To get "perfect" coutersink holes you can place a small piece of rag under the multi flute type countersink bit, or better still use a Snail type bit, that has just one hole drilled at 90 degs to the cutting face and will not judder, to centre a pilot hole there is a "modern" thing which has a 90 deg plunger with the correct size counterbore drill, you align the plunger in the hole then the counterbore is exactly in the centre,( a self centring lock/hinge drill bit). When you fit the buttplate do you aligne the back at 90 degs to the combe, or 90 degs to the barrel? A good video! Chris B.
Have used a blow pipe during 9th grade science class...were used a brass ball point pen cartridge with the ball remover from the tip then tip inserted back into the brass tube. Blowing thru a small a alcohol lamp produced am amazing amount of heat. But would think a large heat sink like the burr plate would require a larger pipe and more forced air for an extended smount of time that a human is incapable of producing. Even the small pipe we used would make one light headed eith long term use...also silver solder melts much at much higher temps than plumbing solder. Silver solder is used where strength is needed like with HVAC pipes soldered into fittings...not sure if that could be sccomplished from a blowpipe?
In the early days, the buttplate would be laid on the coals of the forge, the part for the tab and a few bits of solder set in place. Then with a few slow pulls on the bellows, the solder melts and flows. The trick is to remove the buttplate from the fire without knocking the soldered tab out of place. In a few minutes it's cool enough to quench and start inletting.
Thanks for showing how it's done.
No problem 👍
Great skills! I wonder if they used silver solder or solder in the 1700's and if they did, what did they use as a heat source?
They did a lot of soldering back then. If it wasn't done in a forge, a blow pipe was used with an alcohol or oil lamp. They are still used in many applications including chemical analysis. We used them in Colonial Williamsburg at the gunshop and the silversmith shop. Check out this link. It shows an Egyptian goldsmith soldering. www.pinterest.com/pin/261842165806536668/
This link is to a 19th century illustration of using a blowpipe. www.alamy.com/19th-century-illustration-of-soldering-with-the-blowpipe-frequent-operation-in-jewel-making-published-in-the-practical-magazine-an-illustrated-cy-image220825050.html
@@grumpygunsmithofwilliamsburg Thanks! I didn't know these existed.
Thank you Clay for sharing this video, and great timing! I’m working on inletting the buttplate on my Jim Chambers Early Lancaster kit.
Glad it was helpful!
A Lovely butt,,,,,,plate indeed! My mentor was born in 1889 and so many of the important details you always point out my mentor did as well. Old school as it’s called. I’ve done many restorations of period furniture and a few flint locks along the way. I’ve restored a few pieces of furniture that were still in their original state. All the screws in hinges and hardware were in one direction. So many unseen details that one sees in restoration or in the making. And so many details not appreciated. But that’s quality. Thank You So Much for your great channel and true craftsmanship and fine art! My mentor passed in 1981 at 92. I have some tools my mentor’s mentor had given him. His mentor apprenticed for $25 a year I believe for seven years. His name was Maxwell and my mentor Groff in Lancaster County, Pa. Many Blessings, More Fine Art and I don’t need dancing girls! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Thanks for watching and the comment. I wish more young people would pickup the desire to mentor to a craftsman and continue handing down the knowledge. Too much time wasted watching their friends' posts on Tic-Toc.
@@grumpygunsmithofwilliamsburg Indeed so! Thanks Again for your knowledge and Art! And please remain the Good Grumpy Gunsmith that we Love! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Thank you! I was waiting for this one. Done a few from scratch but not this long-tang style. Interesting about the bronze castings, didn't know what alloy was being used but did notice a lot of the commercial reproductions are hard as coffin nails and much more difficult to file down than cast yellow brass. Annealing tin bronze is supposed to be simple enough but there is a very narrow temperature window where it works and I haven't tried it because I like a hard final surface...once all the file marks are out and it's DONE.
I guess I'm a traditionalist. I'll stick to soft brass whenever I can. A friend did try to anneal a bronze buttplate and when he went to reshape it, it simply broke. Must be a very critical temp if it can be annealed. Thanks.
@@grumpygunsmithofwilliamsburg from what I've been told, torch heat tin bronze in low light, heat to a faint, dull red. Any hotter and it will crystallize, any cooler and it won't anneal. I haven't tried it myself.
Thankyou Clay was hoping you would do this video sooner than later. Knew how to to do Lancaster style etc. But, was not real sure with the long tang style. Was a big help.
Glad to help
Excellent video
Glad you liked it
I wish i would have seen instructiins like this before i attempted to put a buttplate on a french fusil,guess ill have to fill finial inlet in with piece of wood and start over. Thanks as always for the instruction
In awe of your skills.
So am I. LOL
To get "perfect" coutersink holes you can place a small piece of rag under the multi flute type countersink bit, or better still use a Snail type bit, that has just one hole drilled at 90 degs to the cutting face and will not judder, to centre a pilot hole there is a "modern" thing which has a 90 deg plunger with the correct size counterbore drill, you align the plunger in the hole then the counterbore is exactly in the centre,( a self centring lock/hinge drill bit). When you fit the buttplate do you aligne the back at 90 degs to the combe, or 90 degs to the barrel? A good video! Chris B.
Good ideas. Thanks.
Have used a blow pipe during 9th grade science class...were used a brass ball point pen cartridge with the ball remover from the tip then tip inserted back into the brass tube. Blowing thru a small a alcohol lamp produced am amazing amount of heat. But would think a large heat sink like the burr plate would require a larger pipe and more forced air for an extended smount of time that a human is incapable of producing. Even the small pipe we used would make one light headed eith long term use...also silver solder melts much at much higher temps than plumbing solder. Silver solder is used where strength is needed like with HVAC pipes soldered into fittings...not sure if that could be sccomplished from a blowpipe?
In the early days, the buttplate would be laid on the coals of the forge, the part for the tab and a few bits of solder set in place. Then with a few slow pulls on the bellows, the solder melts and flows. The trick is to remove the buttplate from the fire without knocking the soldered tab out of place. In a few minutes it's cool enough to quench and start inletting.
我喜歡。
看不出來那是什麼？
謝謝。18世紀步槍的零件。