Enjoyed that very much. Learned a couple of things. I see I am not the only one that scans the decal sheets before. Thanks for sharing. Cheers, Mike aka SanMarino on F1M.
I built the 88cv back in the 90’s and dont remember having any major issues with the decals. Granted your model looks 100x better than mine did! I believe the “NewMan” brand is a subsidiary or western company name for Taka-q. Hence the similar livery with the Joest Porsche.
Last thing, I have 83 unbuilt car kits and im 63 so i better get to work. i usually build at least two at a time and finish about 6 or seven a year. Wish i could show you. Be well
@wixy500 i just watched again and you did a splendid job all around. Copy making is great advice for everyone. Also, caring enough to paint white under decals when needed is great. I do have many "old stock" cars with old, damaged or yellowed decals. ive bought from japan and elsewhere. Buying aftermarket decals can be expensive and can be. disappointing. Forget about the cost of photo etched parts although i do buy them😢 You must be very patient, my dad taught me that. You must resist the urge to rush. You obviously wait a sufficient amount of time to mask after painting one color. What do you think about dehydrators for speeding the process? im not sure i like them seem to soften paint and changes the way it gasses off. Last thing, Talking the way you do is way more informative than most other videos who play music or have minimal dialog. you are teaching and your good at it. i hear no fumforing no "ums" or "likes". You speak very well. Keep up the good work
Very nice work on such an old kit. Would never have noticed the difference in livery on the diagonal areas. Shame about having to do so much masking, I wonder if a layer of plain white decal underneath each masked area would have helped minimise the bleed through? Nice video too, picked up a few ideas along the way. Cheers, Paul ( also an F1M member )
Yes, applying plan white decal underneath the kit's supplied decal does work, but it means the decalled areas are twice as thick, which means it's more difficult to get the clear-coat smooth and flat. The Salvinos Petty NASCAR I built uses that method, the kit came with extra white backing decals to help overcome the bleed through.
Enjoyed that very much. Learned a couple of things. I see I am not the only one that scans the decal sheets before. Thanks for sharing. Cheers, Mike aka SanMarino on F1M.
Glad it was helpful, Mike!
I built the 88cv back in the 90’s and dont remember having any major issues with the decals. Granted your model looks 100x better than mine did! I believe the “NewMan” brand is a subsidiary or western company name for Taka-q. Hence the similar livery with the Joest Porsche.
Ahh, that makes sense about the livery - thanks for the heads-up!
Nice work. Nice work on cutting down the decals. Thanks for sharing
Cheers :)
Very nice build, thanks for sharing
No problem 👍 Thanks for watching!
Last thing, I have 83 unbuilt car kits and im 63 so i better get to work. i usually build at least two at a time and finish about 6 or seven a year. Wish i could show you. Be well
Sent me a pic/s via my Facebook Page if you like? > facebook.com/wixy500
So cool 🏎
nice job. i do this all the time because with a lot of kits the decals are dried out i make templets and use those for masking
Yep. Maybe you are like me, and build kits that have been in the stash for way too long - so long the decals go crusty?? lol
@wixy500 i just watched again and you did a splendid job all around.
Copy making is great advice for everyone.
Also, caring enough to paint white under decals when needed is great.
I do have many "old stock" cars with old, damaged or yellowed decals. ive bought from japan and elsewhere.
Buying aftermarket decals can be expensive and can be.
disappointing.
Forget about the cost of photo etched parts although i do buy them😢
You must be very patient, my dad taught me that. You must resist the urge to rush. You obviously wait a sufficient amount of time to mask after painting one color.
What do you think about dehydrators for speeding the process? im not sure i like them seem to soften paint and changes the way it gasses off.
Last thing, Talking the way you do is way more informative than most other videos who play music or have minimal dialog. you are teaching and your good at it.
i hear no fumforing no "ums" or "likes". You speak very well. Keep up the good work
Looks fantastic great job
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice work on such an old kit. Would never have noticed the difference in livery on the diagonal areas. Shame about having to do so much masking, I wonder if a layer of plain white decal underneath each masked area would have helped minimise the bleed through? Nice video too, picked up a few ideas along the way. Cheers, Paul ( also an F1M member )
Yes, applying plan white decal underneath the kit's supplied decal does work, but it means the decalled areas are twice as thick, which means it's more difficult to get the clear-coat smooth and flat. The Salvinos Petty NASCAR I built uses that method, the kit came with extra white backing decals to help overcome the bleed through.