Much respect to you. You battled and kept your composure. Other guys might have given up and asked for back up. Young techs like you who push hard should be given good in house training and sent to seminars if possible. Both the employee and company benefits from it. The rest will come with more reps. Experience is the other half of it. You got a new subscriber.
Ok I see You! I’m and old Vet of 35 yrs in the Business. So here’s what I’m going say constructive Get them Cooper Temp leads out there and on them lines. lol But seriously I always like to use my saturation temps to lead me in the right location. Don’t get set on a certain Pressure. You’ll see things will tighten up even when loaded. 1. Check your Saturated liquid temp High side pressure = Saturated liquid Temp. You at least need 100 deg saturated liquid Temp. That will get your oil back. You’ll want to stay below 120deg. Most TXV’s are rated at 100deg liquid temp. 2. TXV superheat 6-10deg 3. Compressor Superheat 30-35 deg 4. 10deg Delta T in your Evap/Box Temp Inlet vs Temp out of the Fans 5. 25-30 deg Condenser rise. Air entering the Condenser vs Air Leaving the Fan. 6. Always check temp across the drier. If it’s got a 3deg or a 3psi difference. Change it. 7. Watch tha hot gas bypass/ head pressure control I seen that you had on the condenser. Check and see what it starts to open up and bypass hot gas into the receiver. Usually about 190 psi it will start to put hot gas into your receiver. Sometimes they will open up too soon or they won’t seal off inside. And you’ll put hot gas in the receiver instead of full liquid. Which kill your capacity. You can take a Temp difference of the 3 ports/lines. If you have any hot gas spilling over to the receiver when your head pressure is up above the rating of that HGB. Then you catch it with the Temp meter. It should only open up and bypass in cold out door ambient temps or Low Load. Just to keep you from low suction pressure and freezing up. Now that left side on that condenser is done. It needs replaced. Even with a Fan and Blade that dude is mashed to bad. Still believe you are Low on gas. Your head pressure should be Screamin with no fan and mashed like that. That’s why you got low Suction. 8. You really need to check the Winter Charge on that receiver. I’ll let you read on that instead of me typing more than I already have. But you want to pump the unit down and put it all in the receiver. Valve it off. Watch your head pressure while you’re doing it though. But you’re Reciever should be 80% full no more than 90%. You can take a torch and warm up the receiver or a heat gun. But take infrared temp gun and run it slowly up and down the receiver. And where it just starts to get the hottest. Is where gas starts and not liquid. That will show your current level. And you want liquid up in the receiver 80 - 90% full. Add gas and re-check. Make a mark on on the tank for next time. And you can charge the receiver to that amount anytime after that if you knew the system’s total charge that is. But anyways you can still raise your liquid level up in the tank to 80-90% when you don’t know total charge. And that will get you close. Because you’ll run way too low on gas in the Winter and you’ll starve. Freeze up the Evap , not cool down your box because it really starves when the HGBP starts to open up and puts hot gas in that reciever. Because if you don’t maintain a liquid level. You’ll feed the liquid line with too much hot gas. Just some pointers Young Buck. Not trying to flex. I watch a lot of your content and I appreciate your willingness to work in the Trade and also your trying to be a better Tech. I do like how you admitted you got side tracked and how you recovered the situation. I like how you wasn’t afraid to film it.
The coil will have to be replaced also…with over 1/4 of the coil blocked it will not have the sub cooling it needs to clear the sight glass without being overcharged….keep learning my friend
@@youngbuckrefrigeration716 sub cooling isn’t checked in refrigeration but without it there would be no change of state from your hot gas back to a liquid…the coil and fans have to be running to achieve to change…unless the outside temp is low enough…( sun cooling is a measurement of how much liquid is being stored in the condensing coil…) trying to help you out and giving some explanation…deeper understanding is always better…
Proud of you young brother, I’ve been in residential hvac since 2011 , I wish I would have got more into refrigeration, I get calls like this all the time and usually sub them out unless it’s something obvious, but , your in a good sector of hvac keep up the good work bro
Refrigeration is great but the company he’s work for does Supermarket rack your really don’t have a life your on call doesn’t matter daily hours is from 12 hours to 16 more and if your at a call & find out a compressor or a major parts & cant wait you could be there 24 hours .Some of the jobs your get involved with installing refrigeration case fixing a major refrigeration leak or defrosting case or doing routine maintenance Pm overnight while you just worked your normal shift.
Congrats, proud to see a young brother providing professional services and no need to hammer yourself about the line restriction. You was very thorough with the diagnosis! How long have you been doing hvac/ r??
Good Job man ! I would suspect 1 of 2 issues to look into. 1 being that solenoid is possibly not opening all of the way 2 would be the no air flow across the coil because of broken blade causing the head pressure to maintain and allow the headmaster to keep the liquid in the receiver. Either way man that condenser needs to be changed out . Never check pressures when ice is present it will lead you down a false path.
Thank you for sharing. Get as many Master licenses in your state for gas, steam/hot water, a/c, warm air, and your local vendor training classes. Knowledge is power. Keep up the nice work. enjoy your persistence excitement for the trade I will check your posts from time to time.
Those conventional units usually leak on relief valves on receiver if you lose a condenser motor and it runs high discharge pressure. Most of the relief valves usually reseat but some will continue to leak on receiver .
Seems like even with a new fan blade, those smashed fins are going to block most of the airflow and that set of coils is never going to work like it's supposed to. Same as when a car fan blade flattens 50% or more of the fins blocking flow and owner doesn't understand why his normal 175 temp gauge is now reading 205!
Thanks for the info really appreciate it and I love cleaning them been use to it since started. I would change time to time depending on condition of strainer.
I might be wrong but next time check your headmaster control. Discharge pressure into condenser as well as receiver outlet. On hot day should be the same. Where are you located? For Prep room why do they need 30F as set point. Prep rooms we run them between 50-55F room temperature so we are looking for 40 -45 SST.
New Sub here. You did a great job, young man. The only thing I noticed is that you may want to slow the movement speed of your wand down when searching for a leak with a leak detector. It is recommended that you slowly move your wand, no more than an inch or two every second.
Good work, but as soon as I seen that coil , I would’ve gave customer quote for a new one. No matter how hard you try with that coil banged up like that it will never cool properly. Keep putting in that work. Much respect
How much more gas did you add?Is it flooding back? In a perfect world you want that medium temp coil at 25 degrees. In the real world it’s probably gonna run 18-15 degrees.
awesome vide enjoyed it i worked around those guy hvac and refrigeration mechanics when i work at la unified school maintenace dept i enjoy that type of work keep up the great work new subscriber
Is that a multi fridge condensing unit ? For the meat keeper. Never seen that type of system. When you’re working on it can you isolate each fridge line individually or are they all in series with each other ?
Should have checked on the evaporator coil and the evap fans. i Suspect there is an issue with the inside. i think you should shadow ur Journeyman a little bit longer, there is A_LOT of things you arent checking. i know ur trying. but i dont think its acceptable trying to youtube your knowledge.
Who says you have to know everything to post UA-cam videos of the work you do? Is that somewhere in the guidelines when you create a HVACR UA-cam channel? You’re right that he misses a lot of stuff but he is also learning and there is nothing wrong with him posting his day to day stuff
Do you really need to use PROFANITY!!!! ?????
I try not TOOOO LOOLLL! you in this trade?
lol if your in this trade you cuss all day every day. Keep it real
@@youngbuckrefrigeration716 I am and you going to cuss
@@youngbuckrefrigeration716 Why didnt you change the condenser??? I mean it would have made it more efficient
@@youngbuckrefrigeration716 That fan not working will cause the pressures to be off
Keep doing what you do. It's Great to have you in the Trade. Proud.
Most definitely and appreciate the support 🙏🏽
Much respect to you. You battled and kept your composure. Other guys might have given up and asked for back up. Young techs like you who push hard should be given good in house training and sent to seminars if possible. Both the employee and company benefits from it. The rest will come with more reps. Experience is the other half of it. You got a new subscriber.
I truly agree with your statement ☝️ when I got in this trade I was thrown out in the woods! Appreciate you supporting means a lot 🙏🏽
Great job young man. Knowledge is king. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do! Appreciate the support 🙏🏽
Ok I see You! I’m and old Vet of 35 yrs in the Business. So here’s what I’m going say constructive
Get them Cooper Temp leads out there and on them lines. lol
But seriously I always like to use my saturation temps to lead me in the right location. Don’t get set on a certain Pressure. You’ll see things will tighten up even when loaded.
1. Check your Saturated liquid temp
High side pressure = Saturated liquid Temp. You at least need 100 deg saturated liquid Temp. That will get your oil back. You’ll want to stay below 120deg. Most TXV’s are rated at 100deg liquid temp.
2. TXV superheat 6-10deg
3. Compressor Superheat 30-35 deg
4. 10deg Delta T in your Evap/Box Temp Inlet vs Temp out of the Fans
5. 25-30 deg Condenser rise.
Air entering the Condenser vs Air Leaving the Fan.
6. Always check temp across the drier. If it’s got a 3deg or a 3psi difference. Change it.
7. Watch tha hot gas bypass/ head pressure control I seen that you had on the condenser. Check and see what it starts to open up and bypass hot gas into the receiver. Usually about 190 psi it will start to put hot gas into your receiver. Sometimes they will open up too soon or they won’t seal off inside. And you’ll put hot gas in the receiver instead of full liquid. Which kill your capacity. You can take a Temp difference of the 3 ports/lines. If you have any hot gas spilling over to the receiver when your head pressure is up above the rating of that HGB. Then you catch it with the Temp meter. It should only open up and bypass in cold out door ambient temps or Low Load. Just to keep you from low suction pressure and freezing up.
Now that left side on that condenser is done. It needs replaced. Even with a Fan and Blade that dude is mashed to bad. Still believe you are Low on gas. Your head pressure should be Screamin with no fan and mashed like that. That’s why you got low Suction.
8. You really need to check the Winter Charge on that receiver. I’ll let you read on that instead of me typing more than I already have. But you want to pump the unit down and put it all in the receiver. Valve it off. Watch your head pressure while you’re doing it though. But you’re Reciever should be 80% full no more than 90%. You can take a torch and warm up the receiver or a heat gun. But take infrared temp gun and run it slowly up and down the receiver. And where it just starts to get the hottest. Is where gas starts and not liquid. That will show your current level. And you want liquid up in the receiver 80 - 90% full. Add gas and re-check. Make a mark on on the tank for next time. And you can charge the receiver to that amount anytime after that if you knew the system’s total charge that is. But anyways you can still raise your liquid level up in the tank to 80-90% when you don’t know total charge. And that will get you close. Because you’ll run way too low on gas in the Winter and you’ll starve. Freeze up the Evap , not cool down your box because it really starves when the HGBP starts to open up and puts hot gas in that reciever. Because if you don’t maintain a liquid level. You’ll feed the liquid line with too much hot gas.
Just some pointers Young Buck. Not trying to flex.
I watch a lot of your content and I appreciate your willingness to work in the Trade and also your trying to be a better Tech.
I do like how you admitted you got side tracked and how you recovered the situation. I like how you wasn’t afraid to film it.
WOW APPRECIATE IT🙏🏽 Taken screenshot appreciate your support means alot. Very useful info👀
Impressed! Keep up with your diagnostic plan.
Thanks, will do! 🙏🏽
We all make mistakes and overlook something at some point we all have to remember and stick to the basics
@@carlosstokes4039 most definitely and appreciate input 🙏🏽
The coil will have to be replaced also…with over 1/4 of the coil blocked it will not have the sub cooling it needs to clear the sight glass without being overcharged….keep learning my friend
In refrigeration we never checked for sub cooling but i agree!
@@youngbuckrefrigeration716 sub cooling isn’t checked in refrigeration but without it there would be no change of state from your hot gas back to a liquid…the coil and fans have to be running to achieve to change…unless the outside temp is low enough…( sun cooling is a measurement of how much liquid is being stored in the condensing coil…) trying to help you out and giving some explanation…deeper understanding is always better…
Tremendously proud of you bro!
Appreciate it means alot 🙏🏽
Proud of you young brother, I’ve been in residential hvac since 2011 , I wish I would have got more into refrigeration, I get calls like this all the time and usually sub them out unless it’s something obvious, but , your in a good sector of hvac keep up the good work bro
Refrigeration is great but the company he’s work for does Supermarket rack your really don’t have a life your on call doesn’t matter daily hours is from 12 hours to 16 more and if your at a call & find out a compressor or a major parts & cant wait you could be there 24 hours .Some of the jobs your get involved with installing refrigeration case fixing a major refrigeration leak or defrosting case or doing routine maintenance Pm overnight while you just worked your normal shift.
Thank your for your input and appreciate the support 🙏🏽 and yes totally agree ☝️ and how you liking the residential side?
They sure make some "drop dead gorgeous" young bucks these days! Nice listening to you and eye candy galore.
Appreciate your support Thank you 🙏🏽 💯
I like your drive, keep up the hard work young man!
Thanks, will do! Appreciate the support 🙏🏽
Congrats, proud to see a young brother providing professional services and no need to hammer yourself about the line restriction. You was very thorough with the diagnosis! How long have you been doing hvac/ r??
Appreciate the support and input 🙏🏽 and 3 years.
Yoooo what’s goood Brodie aye maneee that coils then seen better days 🤣🤣🤣!!!!!
😂😂😂 I agree they still going to keep 😂
Good Job man ! I would suspect 1 of 2 issues to look into. 1 being that solenoid is possibly not opening all of the way 2 would be the no air flow across the coil because of broken blade causing the head pressure to maintain and allow the headmaster to keep the liquid in the receiver. Either way man that condenser needs to be changed out . Never check pressures when ice is present it will lead you down a false path.
I agree but I doubt they will change 🫣 I really appreciate the input and support 🙏🏽☝️
Thank you for sharing. Get as many Master licenses in your state for gas, steam/hot water, a/c, warm air, and your local vendor training classes. Knowledge is power.
Keep up the nice work. enjoy your persistence excitement for the trade
I will check your posts from time to time.
Thanks for the tips! And appreciate support 🙏🏽☝️
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
good videos friend!! greetings from Argentina
Thanks for visiting appreciate the support 🙏🏽 and wow that’s crazy 👀🔥
I would have immediately quoted a new, condensing unit, fan motor, blade, drier & txv then nitrogen checked, vacuum and charged!
Yesterday they asked what I recommended. I said unit could use replacement or keep running as is but on customer!
Those conventional units usually leak on relief valves on receiver if you lose a condenser motor and it runs high discharge pressure. Most of the relief valves usually reseat but some will continue to leak on receiver .
Seems like even with a new fan blade, those smashed fins are going to block most of the airflow and that set of coils is never going to work like it's supposed to. Same as when a car fan blade flattens 50% or more of the fins blocking flow and owner doesn't understand why his normal 175 temp gauge is now reading 205!
I agree with your statement ☝️ might have to straighten but will be impossible! We will see what happens and go from there.
Keep a couple of clean strainers on your truck so you can just swap it out when you valve the case off. Really quick under a low positive pressure.
Thanks for the info really appreciate it and I love cleaning them been use to it since started. I would change time to time depending on condition of strainer.
@@youngbuckrefrigeration716 You still clean them. You just keep a clean one ready and close the system up.
I'm surprised it's not leaking the way that oil looks
Same it get me every time!
I might be wrong but next time check your headmaster control. Discharge pressure into condenser as well as receiver outlet. On hot day should be the same. Where are you located?
For Prep room why do they need 30F as set point. Prep rooms we run them between 50-55F room temperature so we are looking for 40 -45 SST.
New Sub here.
You did a great job, young man. The only thing I noticed is that you may want to slow the movement speed of your wand down when searching for a leak with a leak detector.
It is recommended that you slowly move your wand, no more than an inch or two every second.
Thanks for the sub! And appreciate input your correct ☝️
Good work, but as soon as I seen that coil , I would’ve gave customer quote for a new one. No matter how hard you try with that coil banged up like that it will never cool properly. Keep putting in that work. Much respect
Really appreciate the input and support 🙏🏽
I didnt know the dad from Friday did refrigeration.
Lol 😂 this
Im pretty sure that smashed condenser is first domino
Agreed.
Probably the fins on the condenser being blocked and all mashed together doesnt help it needs air flow ..
True!
Temperature difference across filter/drier is how you tell they’re plugged.
Yes and by feel.
You have a restriction some where but my best bet is that txv
We will see and appreciate thought.
How much more gas did you add?Is it flooding back? In a perfect world you want that medium temp coil at 25 degrees. In the real world it’s probably gonna run 18-15 degrees.
About 8Lbs or so and I agree but pressures running to low for r22!
Would you consider making a video talking about the time lapse of your career? How/when you started out etc?
Yes sir will look into 🙏🏽
I work in the meat department it’s be cold I couldn’t imagine with no ac
Agreed 👀
:Looking at that sight glass, that system is very wet.
What up Smokey where is Craig?
😂😂😂😂😂
awesome vide enjoyed it i worked around those guy hvac and refrigeration mechanics when i work at la unified school maintenace dept i enjoy that type of work keep up the great work new subscriber
Very cool! And welcome aboard 🙏🏽☝️
Is that a multi fridge condensing unit ? For the meat keeper. Never seen that type of system. When you’re working on it can you isolate each fridge line individually or are they all in series with each other ?
In series with each other.
Sorry next call service refrigerator new blade fan
If you're getting a lot of frost then it's not a lack of refrigerant but a blockage in refrigerant or air across the evaporator.
Can be if pressures running to low below 32*F degrees! Appreciate input 🙏🏽
You get that fan blade replaced yet?
No ordered one.
@@youngbuckrefrigeration716 gotta wait for it huh? Keep doing your thing man we’re young in this trade together!💪🔥
what is the name of that leak detector?
Inficon stratus
@@jeremiahsanders12it’s a D-TEK stratus made by inficon!
Did I hear you say you have a Boss
lol yes and I do side 👀
@@youngbuckrefrigeration716 ok I understand now keep growing 💗
Yo can I get a job ?
Come ☝️
Should have checked on the evaporator coil and the evap fans. i Suspect there is an issue with the inside. i think you should shadow ur Journeyman a little bit longer, there is A_LOT of things you arent checking. i know ur trying. but i dont think its acceptable trying to youtube your knowledge.
Who says you have to know everything to post UA-cam videos of the work you do? Is that somewhere in the guidelines when you create a HVACR UA-cam channel? You’re right that he misses a lot of stuff but he is also learning and there is nothing wrong with him posting his day to day stuff
lol I hear this a lot I came a long way🙏🏽 and you may need to rewatch video evap coil fine we have charge issue and blade out! Appreciate support 😎
Agreed appreciate your support and back up 🙏🏽
Video whatever the hell you want man. Ain’t nobody paying to watch you. One day they may pay and you can still video whatever the hell you want
I think that condenser coil needs to be replaced.
They not but I agree 🙏🏽☝️