Blind dovetails are one thing but a blind, over-the-head hook shot while drinking coffee, nothing but net, well, that's woodworking at it's finest. Nice wood work!
Thank you so much for making videos without unnecessary use of powertools! This seems like a perfect balance. I’m looking forward to watching videos with your new timberframe workbench.
It's almost all I use on it now, I must be doing it wrong 🤣. But to be honest when the block dulls and I switch to #5 the extra mass feels really great and more controlled.
Thanks brother man! A couple tight spots, u can see one of my long rails needed a love squeeze from a strap clamp to seat the joints before drilling for pegs
Would you consider doing a video about your hide glue? You’re the only woodworker on UA-cam I’ve seen use it, and I’ve been wanting to try it out. I’m sure others would be interested too!
I like the way you use metric and imperial to create tolerances :) I do the same with drawers; 3/8ths (9.5mm) groove ploughed for a 9mm bottom panel to slide into :) Table is cool lad, I enjoyed this :)
I think Narex chisels are the best balance of quality and price. Panel saws you can't go wrong with any of the basics like pax, lynx, spear &Jackson etc but they will need to be filed to sharpen and to take down a bit of the set. For backsaws I like Lie-nielsen dovetail saw, veritas is ok, the budget ones all suck except for the crown gents dovetail saw I have linked in the description. I have a blog post that may interest you so check it out if you'd like!
Fabulous workmanship and great quality videography. I really like your style of presentation. Do you have any plane sharpening and set up videos planned?
Very nice. I noticed your technique for gluing the table top. When I make cutting boards, I set the boards on the clamp bars. That works but can be problematic if your glue up table is not perfectly flat. You approach seems to avoid/minimize that problem and allows for the use of cauls too.
Thanks Vincent! Yes this worked well because the boards were all machined to the same thickness...when I glue up panels that we're not machined I put the parts on the clamp bars so that one side will be flush and the other side I plane flush/flat after the glue up.
This is the type of video I like to see. Hand skills, purpose, varied methods and intelligent design mixed with practical use of lecktrickity tools where needed. I'd hate to have to square up those boards for the table top. Legs and rails, yes. So the two ways of removing shoulder material for tenons, was that to show different ways or was there an imperative. Did you use a spring joint for gluing the boards together.
Awesome man thanks! The reason for paring the long rails is because holding it vertical in the vise it would have been too high up in the air to saw. The short apron could have been pared too but it's just not my preference for cherry bc it splits and breaks off kind of "squiggly". Nope there was no spring joint, but that is a good idea especially since I was already using a plane, would have been no big deal to take an extra pass of two from the middle
The deliberate precision of your hand work is impressive. Were you ever a machinist? I'm also guessing you're from Texas with the shiner shirt. I'm not in Texas anymore but I don't know anyone else as proud of shiner beer 🤣. Makes me miss it, I can't find it up here in Ohio. Either way, got a subscriber from me
First video of yours I’ve seen, and I really enjoyed it. Your hand tool skills are certainly first rate. What was your “filmmakers” point in inserting the use of that beautiful jointer, et. al. when you already had the jointer planes at work, and had obviously chosen to forgo the miter saw and table saws. It seemed an odd mix. But, again, I found it thoroughly enjoyable.
Strong work brother. I got into hand tools when Paul Sellers came out with his book/videos. You’ve got the craft down for sure. You in Texas I take it? I saw you wearing a “Shiner” shirt in one of your videos.
I've been going back through watching the videos over again, and I gotta ask: why do you seem to use primarily the block plane with your shooting board, vs. a larger bench plane like the 5-1/2?
I always had to sharpen up immediately after shooting end grain and would rather keep the bigger planes sharp for planing faces and edges without the little "runs" that happen from a micro-chipped blade that happens from planing a lot of end grain. The block plane with those little edge fractures from end grain work still works OK for trimming up protruding bits or chamfering edges. I do miss the mass though and maybe one day will get a better plane for it
Hello there. Nice work before anything else, it s indeed pleasing to see you alternate between hand and power tools (saying that as being a full hand toolist). One note, i'm surprised that you drill both the mortise and tenon in the mean time, i was expecting two holes with a slight offset so the peg have a pulling effect on the joint thus discarding the need for clamps. Am I missing something?
Beautiful work, excellent craftsmanship, and the grain in that cherry is just gorgeous. Quick question: is there a reason you decided not to go with the full drawboring route on the pins?
thanks brother! Just decided not to, i didnt think it would add a whole lot for a table M&T. I kinda feel like the main utility of drawboring is for pulling joints closed like in a spring joint breadboard end, timber frame, or to put tension through a joint that will be stressed/racked . nothin against using one here though!
What kind of camber/radius do you use on your scrub plane iron? Mine is still at the factory 3" radius, but I am considering reshaping it to 4" or more. Thanks for any insights you can give 👍😊
Good stuff! Beautiful work! Your patience and attention to detail is really admirable. Couple questions: At 3:50, what exactly are you looking for? At 5:10, why is the mortise off center? At 8:00, why are long apron tenons pared with a chisel? At 16:45, what adhesive are you using? About how long did it take you to make?
Thank you Damon! -At 3:50 I'm looking to match the grain. Usually two of the leg faces will have flat grain with a cathedral look to the grain, the other two faces will have long lines of grain. (So would want matched grain on the short table side and the opposite on the long side of table, but would not want to for example look at the table from the end (short side) and have one leg with many straight grain lines and the other leg on the same side with the cathedral look) -the mortise is not centered based on both strength and design. Tenons can be longer when closer to the outer face. If closer to the inner face they must be shorter as they will run into one another sooner. I don't go further to the outer face because it looks better (IMO) to have a small offset step between the leg and the apron/rail. - long apron are pared bc if I held it in the vice it would be way up in the air, unable to saw the cheek. - that is liquid hide glue I have in a plastic spice jar. I have a link to some in the video description. I like the glue a lot, makes tight joints very "slippery" and easier to assemble. Also doesn't "seize" when like can happen on casework when the pva glue seizes or grabs and it becomes almost impossible to seat the dovetails and you literally have to either bang the hell out of it with a mallet or clamp it to death to make the dovetails fully seat. oh and it took me a week to make.
@@FranksWorkbench what are you using to heat the glue - I use hide glue (titebond). I have some hide glue granules, but haven't quite found a heating pot.
I'm using a "hold-heet" glue pot but they seem to have either gone out of business or been discontinued. I've heard baby bottle warmers will work and not over cook the glue, too
Wow great table. Hey I’ve noticed you used tried and true varnish oil ,original wood finish, and tung oil in your projects. Which one is your favorite?
Varnish oil. 2 coats. Rub completely dry with clean cotton rag about an hour after applying. Surface prep is very important with it- if the surface is hand planed, burnish with shavings or sand with 320 grit. Otherwise any spots where grain changes direction will soak more oil and will end up with that raised grain rough feel to it. Good surface prep and its so nice and smooth after curing, even end grain
I'm not sure but I wouldn't say it's a terribly durable finish, more so a finish that will age well with the inevitable dents, dings and other signs of life that are bound to happen. I have the cherry bookcase finished with the same product and it's done well, but then again it only gets keys and a Kindle dropped on top of it lol. I've been getting a lot of feedback for arm r seal though which I'm told has some of the qualities I like in this yet more durability. Have yet to try it but I will at some point.
By the way, checking for twist on the edge of a board is not necessary. This because the plane's cutting width is either the same or wider than the width of the board's edge. The plane shaves off a layer where all points of the edge are cut on the same geometric plane. This isn't the case, however, when you're planing the face of a board because the plane is narrower, requiring several cuts along the width. Each of those cuts are not guaranteed to be on the same plane which can either conform to an existing twist or introduce one. This is why boards planed on a jointer or planer don't need to be checked for twist because they cut the entire width.
hola, gran trabajo. podrias hacer un video de como acomodar ajustar los cepillos, no de afilarlos sino de ponerlos para que corten parejo. y ¿que tipo de pegamento usas?
I love your videos but I was frustrated that this one seems to end about a minute too soon. Where is the final shot of the end product all finished? :-) I’m sure it’s gorgeous.
Ah ok, well as long as your using something you know it makes a big difference. I've used the oil rag too. It actually works even better than wax, but I feel like it doesn't stay silky smooth for very long.
So was that a draw bore or just pegged? If pegged, do you think doing offset size dowel/hole makes it pull in like draw bore? Another great build by the way. And you got a full on air craft carrier didn't you.
That black thing is just an aluminum straight edge, I tapered starting 1" below the mortise down to a 1" square at the bottom. Check out my tapered leg video it will show that layout a bit more clearly
I'm not sure what I'm doing is legal and the trash police may come to my house to arrest me, but I've started using one of those big box store paper lawn bags to collect my shavings and put them out at the curb with other lawn clippings. I also use it to discard small wood offcuts and chips.
🤣🤣. That's actually a great idea. I use most of mine to start fire for my grill, smoker, and chiminea. Shavings make the best firestarter I've ever found.
I always enjoy watching you work. I can see how much you’ve learned from Paul Sellers. Me too.
As someone with a limited amount of space, I'm always inspired by the work you do with such an efficient set of tools and shop setup!
Thank you very much!!
A fella could learn a whole heck of a lot watching your videos! Great work!
I could watch those hand planes all day. Buttery.
Thanks brotha!
Blind dovetails are one thing but a blind, over-the-head hook shot while drinking coffee, nothing but net, well, that's woodworking at it's finest.
Nice wood work!
Amazed with that work, many congrats!!!
G'day from South Australia.
I really like your no-nonsense approach and the aesthetic of the pieces you make. Keep up the great work Frank.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for making videos without unnecessary use of powertools! This seems like a perfect balance. I’m looking forward to watching videos with your new timberframe workbench.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed it!
This just popped up in my recommendations - great work as always!
Beautiful table, excellent craftsmanship.
Awesome! Great balance and mix of tools to make a beautiful piece. I cracked up at that trash and coffee sequence
Just proves you don’t need all the fancy power tools to make a perfect piece of furniture,great work,great videos,keep it up
I cannot say enough, how I love your videos. Please keep making more content like this.
Skill, care, precision and craftsmanship…. Inspirational.
Man thats some beautiful cherry. I like your style of furniture making i can relate.
Thanks Jesse!
The skill level is amazing, I watch this video and at every point I think one mistake and that is game over.
:) thanks man!
Norm Abrams demonstrated this table design very well back in that other century.
Always fun to watch your builds. Never saw someone use a block plane on a shooting board. Everyone seems to think big mass planes are the rule 🥴
It's almost all I use on it now, I must be doing it wrong 🤣. But to be honest when the block dulls and I switch to #5 the extra mass feels really great and more controlled.
Nice to see another one on the team. Lookin sharp my friend
Right on!
Damn dude! Making it look too easy.
Great Job!
Thanks brother man! A couple tight spots, u can see one of my long rails needed a love squeeze from a strap clamp to seat the joints before drilling for pegs
Love your videos brother. Thanks for sharing and helping us woodworkers that wanna start incorporating more hand tool work into our projects.
Thank man I appreciate it!
Another solid video and project (literally) Frank!
Beautiful work!!!
Awesome! One thing I would have changed is using drawbore tenons. They would tighten the tenons automatically.
My sentiments exactly. If you’re going through the process of putting in pegs, you might as well draw bore them.
Another inspirational video for those like us who use hand tools....
That turned out well. You gotta love the simple beauty of the Shaker design.
Would you consider doing a video about your hide glue? You’re the only woodworker on UA-cam I’ve seen use it, and I’ve been wanting to try it out. I’m sure others would be interested too!
Would be very happy to do that, currently taking some time off UA-cam videos but I'll be back to it before too long
@@FranksWorkbench Hell yeah! Hope time off is well, thanks for sharing so much!
Looks good Frank. Nice tight jointery, I like your mix of hand and power tools, similar to how I work. And way to not use a domino!
:D thanks!
Missed this somehow when it was first released. Simple and beautiful job!
Thanks!!
I have a nice collection of hand saws and planes too but somehow I always find myself gravitating to the tablesaw and drill press.
I like the way you use metric and imperial to create tolerances :) I do the same with drawers; 3/8ths (9.5mm) groove ploughed for a 9mm bottom panel to slide into :)
Table is cool lad, I enjoyed this :)
Thanks buddy!
Gorgeous. What a beauty.
I loved how you showed how hand tools can help make using the power tools a bit more efficiently
Clean, basic, beautiful.
If you used dowel joinery, why didn’t you offset the hole on the tenon to make it a draw bore peg?
What brand of hand saws and chisels do you recommend?
I think Narex chisels are the best balance of quality and price. Panel saws you can't go wrong with any of the basics like pax, lynx, spear &Jackson etc but they will need to be filed to sharpen and to take down a bit of the set. For backsaws I like Lie-nielsen dovetail saw, veritas is ok, the budget ones all suck except for the crown gents dovetail saw I have linked in the description. I have a blog post that may interest you so check it out if you'd like!
Wow that was extremely generous, thank you!
Your work is so clean and professional looking. I aspire to one day be this good. Also love the scrap wood trick shots.
thanks!!
Turned out awesome! Glad I just found your channel. Keep up the great work! Side note... love the black and decker workbench.
Thanks man and hahaha me too!!
Nicely done!!
Thank you!!
Great videos as always. You surprised me with the heavy machinery in this one.
Thanks man, yep I went heavy on the machines for this build
Nice build Frank. I like your haunched tenons. I'm surprised you didn't drawbore your pins though.
Fabulous workmanship and great quality videography. I really like your style of presentation. Do you have any plane sharpening and set up videos planned?
Very nice. I noticed your technique for gluing the table top. When I make cutting boards, I set the boards on the clamp bars. That works but can be problematic if your glue up table is not perfectly flat. You approach seems to avoid/minimize that problem and allows for the use of cauls too.
Thanks Vincent! Yes this worked well because the boards were all machined to the same thickness...when I glue up panels that we're not machined I put the parts on the clamp bars so that one side will be flush and the other side I plane flush/flat after the glue up.
@@FranksWorkbench Thank you for the guidance.
Nice job!
Thanks!
Classy and classic.
Perfect!
I am on day 1. I am having a hard time flattening a board and squaring the side. Maybe one of these day you can show us how you do it
Nice skills, man. A good demonstration for anyone aspiring to real ww’ing!
Thank you!
Why did you pare the long side tenons instead of sawing?
What type of rip saw are you using? Can you make a recommendation for a first rip saw to purchase? Thank you, love your content
Great use of your space...keep it up! I'm inspired...
Where did you buy the lumber used for this table? Thanks for such a great video!
Nice work !
What do you use as a circular saw guide at the end ?
I'm interested to see how you get such sharp edges on your blades
Ive got a vid showing my sharpening technique, it's nothin fancy but it works. Medium India stone, translucent Arkansas stone and a strop
This is the type of video I like to see. Hand skills, purpose, varied methods and intelligent design mixed with practical use of lecktrickity tools where needed. I'd hate to have to square up those boards for the table top. Legs and rails, yes. So the two ways of removing shoulder material for tenons, was that to show different ways or was there an imperative. Did you use a spring joint for gluing the boards together.
Awesome man thanks! The reason for paring the long rails is because holding it vertical in the vise it would have been too high up in the air to saw. The short apron could have been pared too but it's just not my preference for cherry bc it splits and breaks off kind of "squiggly". Nope there was no spring joint, but that is a good idea especially since I was already using a plane, would have been no big deal to take an extra pass of two from the middle
Loving the channel so far! Refreshing to watch actually! Is that surfboard wax you use on your planes?
thank you! its just plain old paraffin wax!
Great video and beautiful build. How do you decide when you're going to use the power tool vs hand tool?
The deliberate precision of your hand work is impressive. Were you ever a machinist? I'm also guessing you're from Texas with the shiner shirt. I'm not in Texas anymore but I don't know anyone else as proud of shiner beer 🤣. Makes me miss it, I can't find it up here in Ohio. Either way, got a subscriber from me
yup here in the hot garage of Texas! :D
First video of yours I’ve seen, and I really enjoyed it. Your hand tool skills are certainly first rate. What was your “filmmakers” point in inserting the use of that beautiful jointer, et. al. when you already had the jointer planes at work, and had obviously chosen to forgo the miter saw and table saws. It seemed an odd mix.
But, again, I found it thoroughly enjoyable.
Strong work brother. I got into hand tools when Paul Sellers came out with his book/videos. You’ve got the craft down for sure. You in Texas I take it? I saw you wearing a “Shiner” shirt in one of your videos.
yes sir TX and same here, Paul Sellers book Working Wood 1&2 was a game changer
How do you sharpen your blades of the hand plane??
I've been going back through watching the videos over again, and I gotta ask: why do you seem to use primarily the block plane with your shooting board, vs. a larger bench plane like the 5-1/2?
I always had to sharpen up immediately after shooting end grain and would rather keep the bigger planes sharp for planing faces and edges without the little "runs" that happen from a micro-chipped blade that happens from planing a lot of end grain. The block plane with those little edge fractures from end grain work still works OK for trimming up protruding bits or chamfering edges. I do miss the mass though and maybe one day will get a better plane for it
@@FranksWorkbench sounds like a good excuse to get a LA jack plane 👍
Hello there.
Nice work before anything else, it s indeed pleasing to see you alternate between hand and power tools (saying that as being a full hand toolist).
One note, i'm surprised that you drill both the mortise and tenon in the mean time, i was expecting two holes with a slight offset so the peg have a pulling effect on the joint thus discarding the need for clamps. Am I missing something?
Thanks man, not missing anything I just pegged it rather than drawbore
Beautiful work, excellent craftsmanship, and the grain in that cherry is just gorgeous. Quick question: is there a reason you decided not to go with the full drawboring route on the pins?
thanks brother! Just decided not to, i didnt think it would add a whole lot for a table M&T. I kinda feel like the main utility of drawboring is for pulling joints closed like in a spring joint breadboard end, timber frame, or to put tension through a joint that will be stressed/racked . nothin against using one here though!
What kind of camber/radius do you use on your scrub plane iron? Mine is still at the factory 3" radius, but I am considering reshaping it to 4" or more. Thanks for any insights you can give 👍😊
Good stuff! Beautiful work! Your patience and attention to detail is really admirable.
Couple questions:
At 3:50, what exactly are you looking for?
At 5:10, why is the mortise off center?
At 8:00, why are long apron tenons pared with a chisel?
At 16:45, what adhesive are you using?
About how long did it take you to make?
Thank you Damon!
-At 3:50 I'm looking to match the grain. Usually two of the leg faces will have flat grain with a cathedral look to the grain, the other two faces will have long lines of grain. (So would want matched grain on the short table side and the opposite on the long side of table, but would not want to for example look at the table from the end (short side) and have one leg with many straight grain lines and the other leg on the same side with the cathedral look)
-the mortise is not centered based on both strength and design. Tenons can be longer when closer to the outer face. If closer to the inner face they must be shorter as they will run into one another sooner. I don't go further to the outer face because it looks better (IMO) to have a small offset step between the leg and the apron/rail.
- long apron are pared bc if I held it in the vice it would be way up in the air, unable to saw the cheek.
- that is liquid hide glue I have in a plastic spice jar. I have a link to some in the video description. I like the glue a lot, makes tight joints very "slippery" and easier to assemble. Also doesn't "seize" when like can happen on casework when the pva glue seizes or grabs and it becomes almost impossible to seat the dovetails and you literally have to either bang the hell out of it with a mallet or clamp it to death to make the dovetails fully seat.
oh and it took me a week to make.
@@FranksWorkbench what are you using to heat the glue - I use hide glue (titebond). I have some hide glue granules, but haven't quite found a heating pot.
I'm using a "hold-heet" glue pot but they seem to have either gone out of business or been discontinued. I've heard baby bottle warmers will work and not over cook the glue, too
@@FranksWorkbench thanks - I found one at lee valley that isn't terribly expensive - think I will order that while it is in stock
Wow great table. Hey I’ve noticed you used tried and true varnish oil ,original wood finish, and tung oil in your projects. Which one is your favorite?
Varnish oil. 2 coats. Rub completely dry with clean cotton rag about an hour after applying. Surface prep is very important with it- if the surface is hand planed, burnish with shavings or sand with 320 grit. Otherwise any spots where grain changes direction will soak more oil and will end up with that raised grain rough feel to it. Good surface prep and its so nice and smooth after curing, even end grain
I like the original a lot too. But if I could only pick one....
@@FranksWorkbench Thanks! I’ve been using their varnish oil. I’ll stick with it.
Has it been durable enough on the table?
I'm not sure but I wouldn't say it's a terribly durable finish, more so a finish that will age well with the inevitable dents, dings and other signs of life that are bound to happen. I have the cherry bookcase finished with the same product and it's done well, but then again it only gets keys and a Kindle dropped on top of it lol.
I've been getting a lot of feedback for arm r seal though which I'm told has some of the qualities I like in this yet more durability. Have yet to try it but I will at some point.
Nice job. Question, do you ever miss the basket? 😂
Do you ever get snipe with your planer?
Great job, as always!
Thanks Todd!
Ah yes, the true woodworking master skill: the uncanny ability to home in on the closest trashcan
love the work, keep it up
By the way, checking for twist on the edge of a board is not necessary. This because the plane's cutting width is either the same or wider than the width of the board's edge. The plane shaves off a layer where all points of the edge are cut on the same geometric plane. This isn't the case, however, when you're planing the face of a board because the plane is narrower, requiring several cuts along the width. Each of those cuts are not guaranteed to be on the same plane which can either conform to an existing twist or introduce one. This is why boards planed on a jointer or planer don't need to be checked for twist because they cut the entire width.
hola, gran trabajo. podrias hacer un video de como acomodar ajustar los cepillos, no de afilarlos sino de ponerlos para que corten parejo. y ¿que tipo de pegamento usas?
I love your videos but I was frustrated that this one seems to end about a minute too soon. Where is the final shot of the end product all finished? :-) I’m sure it’s gorgeous.
As can be seen in 7:32 and 7:38 that rubbish bin would be a really good goalkeeper
Nice work! Frank... What kind of wax are you using on your plane bottom?
Thanks! It's paraffin wax, you gotta try it!
@@FranksWorkbench I will. Rob Cosman uses wax. Paul Sellers uses oil rag in a can which I currently use. I'm going to try it. Thanks.
Ah ok, well as long as your using something you know it makes a big difference. I've used the oil rag too. It actually works even better than wax, but I feel like it doesn't stay silky smooth for very long.
@@FranksWorkbench that's exactly how I feel. Like the oil in a can but it doesn't seem to last long.
Amazing work! What are your thoughts on the pull saws?
I've never tried one! I know they are super popular though and seem to work very well!
That’s freakin clean and gorgeous table. Is it cherry?
So was that a draw bore or just pegged? If pegged, do you think doing offset size dowel/hole makes it pull in like draw bore? Another great build by the way. And you got a full on air craft carrier didn't you.
It was just pegged, but drawboring is definitely great too! Haha yes I sure did, a sweet machine for sure!
amazing
Parabéns pelo capricho . Sou do Brasil
Very nice build! What did you do for a finish?
Thanks!! Tried and true varnish oil amzn.to/3g56D2n
Good bro
Hello sir, could you please make a chair with basic hand tools please? I'm a beginner and I'm lost
It's on the plan for this year, good clean design, simple angles, very strong! It's still a ways off though
What was the template you used for the taper in the legs?
That black thing is just an aluminum straight edge, I tapered starting 1" below the mortise down to a 1" square at the bottom. Check out my tapered leg video it will show that layout a bit more clearly
How bout giving me a couple of them clamps sir
Muy lindo trabajo, sólo, no me gustó la manera q uniste el tablero a la estructura de las patas. Saludos desde Argentina 🙋🏻♂️
16:30 I expected a drawbore for some reason
Zen like.
I'm not sure what I'm doing is legal and the trash police may come to my house to arrest me, but I've started using one of those big box store paper lawn bags to collect my shavings and put them out at the curb with other lawn clippings. I also use it to discard small wood offcuts and chips.
🤣🤣. That's actually a great idea. I use most of mine to start fire for my grill, smoker, and chiminea. Shavings make the best firestarter I've ever found.
wait wait.... did I miss something? When did you get power tools! hahahah
Haha had em a little while now, really flexed some power tool muscle on this project getting that top milled up!
I like your videos verry much, and you have build a nice table!!! But powertools ist not the dna from this chanel. :-)
Thanks!
Using machines and saying hand tools in title is just misrepresentation. Hand tools means only hand tools. Good work though. 😅
Look out! It’s the hand tool police! 😅