@@stacticsgaming9879I own both, SC2 Pro is the end game base at this point time. Just took my Invicta off the rig this week and there are things I will miss a little until I swap again, but if you can only get one - go Simucube unless there are other things in the Asetek ecosystem you wanna try that must be used with the Asetek base, like their wheels. Cheers.
I have the Pro and I have absolutely no regrets. It's performed flawlessly since I got it last year. It's a lot to spend, but I'd do it all over again. I probably would have been fine with the Sport; I don't need the extra torque of the Pro nor do I need the extra slew rate for iRacing at least. 4.8 is already faster than a real car anyway from what I hear. The flexibility is where it's nice to have the additional headroom. This wheel can do almost anything.
I could see myself still using mine 30 years from now, if it's still working -- and I wouldn't be surprised if it was, given the build quality. I'm not even slightly tempted by any of the other wheels that have been released or are on the horizon. It's my end game gear, in every sense of the term and I've enjoyed every minute with it.
One thing that is different between ultimate and Sport/pro is warranty. Warranty on Ultimate is 5 years vs Pro/Sport is 2 years. Even if your pro wheelbase fails after warranty period, you can buy another one and still save little bit of money.
@@guitarsimon1 I think that integrated USB on asetek is nice. I’m just curious about his thoughts on the VRS back to back with the other 2. It’s down to those 3 for me when I do upgrade next
I got the Pro about 4 years ago and I'm very happy, but I think the Sport would have been fine and saved me money. This video is spot on about higher slew rate feeling odd, at least for my driving. I limit my wheel to the slew rate of the Sport, and only use 16Nm of max torque anyways.
This past winter I upgraded from my Fanatec CSL Elite belt driven wheel base to the Simucube 2 Pro (the difference is staggering!) The reason I went for the pro over the sport was because of an older video on this channel discussing the differences like we have here in this one, and much like the conclusions found here, due to the increased slew rate of the pro vs sport and the reasonable price difference, this is why I sided with the pro. Videos like this are fantastic and really helps dispel the myths of bigger is always better and instead focuses on real world scenarios and what players' expectations and their overall understandings should be!
Good explanation! Finaly everybody can see diference between entry DD Fanatec 5Nm and TOP tier! I am on Asetek Invicta spec are bit over Pro for same price, with better QR end some others extras, absolute stuning FFB 🙂
I have had the sport for 3 years and I have it set for 15 nm on Iracing and I love it. It’s a great wheel and I don’t have clipping with head room at 17 nm. I would recommend it.
Did you use the same True Drive settings for all bases? Always wondered how much different using a shared Ultimate profile with Overall strength set to 15 Nm with Slew Rate Limit set to 1.50 on a Pro base feels. Alternatively using a Sport profile on a Pro base. I'd like to see a video on the True Drive software and your settings for different sims and how in-game settings affect feel.
Thanks for the content Will. I got into sim racing watching your initial overview/review of the simucube 2 models couple years ago. I have the Sport and I'm still debating myself with stepping up into the Pro. The Sport never missed a beat since day 1, I've recently been going back and forth with a change.
Fully agree with the verdict - I've never seen anyone doing competitive racing at 30nm, ever. And frankly I consider it nothing but a nuisance and extremely dangerous - especially the spikes are something you do not want ever - they might just be the thing breaking a finger or at least making you regret that race and having a sore wrist / whatever for a day or a few. 11 is fine for pretty much most people, 15 is a lot already 20 is basically already gym territory - at those force you should question if you really wanna drive a car or just wanna work out. The only possible use case I could imagine is maybe a go kart training setup - but those are weird to simulate anyway.
Still rocking a Simucube1 20Nm Mige, the good gear gets supported for longer: despite SC1 being discontinued I was (with a bit of hunting) able to buy Simucube BT unit for wireless wheel, upgrade the encoder to 22-bit & install driver updates through to Aug 2023. The latter might have ceased, but still is fine DD wheel in regular use today and Simucube keep some old the SC1 boards in stock as spares for existing owners. Simcore used to sell BT module but seem sold out, new Simucube Link Hub will connect to wireless wheels.
Top quality video that was what I was talking about back when I was involved in the industry. I personally went the pro back when they were first released.
I've had a pro since they were released and always run it at 100% in true drive and run whatever the car will produce Nm wise, I've never been tempted to turn it down. I'm also over 2m tall and 120kg, so I'm probably better equipped to handle it than your average simracer. I don't think I'll ever need to upgrade.
I have Simucube 2 Pro and a VRS Direct Force Pro, both are kind of wasted on me. A 10nm/15nm base would suit me just fine, even 15nm would be overkill.
I run mine at 100% in True Drive but scale the force back in whatever sim I'm in. Are you suggesting you run in-game FFB settings at 100% too?? That's like trying to turn a vehicle that was build for power steering after the power steering failed. Fun to try at least once but I couldn't imagine running like that all the time.
@AdamsOlympia I run truedrive at 100% but let the game (iracing) output what the car runs at, so whatever the car would run at in real life is what it runs at for me. The max output varies greatly across the range of cars in iracing.
@@phillberry2444 Oh, I understand now. I haven't spent more than a few minutes in iRacing, so I wasn't aware that was a thing. Sounds like an awesome feature! ...
@AdamsOlympia it works very well, you can cap or scale the output for wheel bases that aren't high output but the SC2 pro can handle anything that iRacing puts out, I'm probably on the outer limits, I guess not to many run higher levels of FFB. But it's great to have options.
The hardest part of my SIM racing journey has been deciding what to change too. I first went with Fanatec eco system but now I only pc race and I kinda want to move away from the console stuff. So much out there, and it's tough trying to decide. Thanks to yall for all the help and research you and yo brother do. STILL DONT KNOW WHAT TO GO WITH THO! lol
Seriously bro was in the same position as you - I can guarantee move to SC I have the pro - man unless you own one you just do not know what you were missing - so worth the money & investment .....
If they start doing power and data through the shaft, I hope they also keep wireless + battery powered wheels as an option. When they designed their wheelbase, I think the choice to go wireless was an attempt to make it as fail proof as possible, since shaft pass-thru can be a common point of failure on other wheels, due to the amount of strain those connections are under.
Run my 15nm base at 65% most of the time, turn it down to 50% when my teenage son uses it (so about 10nm / 8nm). Only thing I notice at 100% is the fatigue that sets in after 5 or 6 laps, at 65% I'm fine.
After T-GT, DD Pro, DD1, DD+, SC2 Sport, Asetek Invicta… currently, SC2 Pro. It’s nice to know personally (not web based opinion), that you are using the best overall. I am good until we hear about Simucube SC3 or Fanatec Podium V2. Cheers, thanks for everything Will & Tim.
I have the Pro 2, and it's almost perfect. The only complaint I have about the wheelbase is the power button located on the back. My midget arms can barely reach it, especially after a race
Like he said, you can buy the upgraded eStop with a power button which is really nice. Toward the end of the year they're always on sale. I paid 60 bucks for my upgraded e stop. Got tired of reaching in the rear and felt I might end up breaking it.
In addition to the graph it would be necessary to show the settings in TD and in the various simulators, each time it seems a secret to show how to set the foundations perfectly. It would be great to see that graph made then practically on the software of the base and on iracing ACC LMU and other simulators, so as to make it clear even to those who claim to always have to put everything to the maximum that is not needed. It would be practical proof that using the basics in a certain way we do not lose details, on the contrary it is the opposite. I hope you will make this practical video. Thank you as always for the explanations
Thanks for the informative video Will. I guess as the majority of clipping comes from say a sudden crash or the like then I am not too concerned because I am not interested in details if I am hitting a wall. That said my Alpha Mini does well especially when allowing for a bit of headroom in torque settings which is probably closer to a max of 13.5nm and not 10 from all accounts. I did consider buying the 15nm Alpha however due to price point and as I carry an ongoing shoulder injury, I went with the Mini. Do I regret it ? No, all the important details are there and ffb is more than enough.
Had my Pro for a year now. Came from a Logitech G923 and the difference is obviously staggering! Went for the Pro as it’s not that much more than the Sport.
Good review. The only thing you omitted in my opinion is the constant force reduction filter, which is one of the peculiarities of the simucube software. Thanks to this filter you have the possibility to reduce the force when you are in cornering (and thus you have an almost constant force on the steering wheel) but at the same time it allows you to set a higher general force value that allows you to perceive asphalt roughness and bumpiness more accurately. Which you would lose by lowering the overall force level too much.
I use whole 25nm with 100% in-game force for the karting in assetto corsa nice mods for sodi kart. Because of how small wheel steering is required. For acc usually around 40% force.
Will, if you had to choose between the Simucube 2 Pro and the Asetek Invicta or the Simagic Alpha U (ultimate), which would you choose. Still deciding on my route upgrading from a Fanatec DD1. Edit: a comparison of those 3 wheel bases by the way would be very welcome. There seem to not be many reviews about the Simagic Alpha U out there yet.
There’s so little in it between the three I really think it comes down to which ecosystem you prefer. Covered here: ua-cam.com/video/gvBrsTHwbYk/v-deo.htmlsi=K_gXIT0UHx2mIcGL
@@boostedmedia thanks for your review, another awesome video. I think I will upgrade my csl dd 8nm to the cs dd plus. I think simucube 2 is superior than cs dd+ but I own a Fanatec eco system and I think that an upgrade from csl dd to cs dd plus is good enough
I have a fanatec DD2 and never have the FF above 6-7. The Porsche GT3 cup at 5.5-6 is almost exactly like my GT3 racecar on slicks. Most sports cars have power steering now and you don’t have to fight the wheel or the car. I guess if you do a lot of open wheel racing I you may want the FF higher but I think you end up fighting the wheel, instead of being precise.
Hi Will, I have never seen you mention how much noise the Simucube 2 Pro makes... I have the SC2 Pro and compared to my previous Simagic Alpha it is very loud. There is a rattling sound when driving. There are lots of videos on the web showing how noisy it is - and none of the reviews mention this...
I'm not entirely convinced that the explanation of the slew rate is completely correct. The rise time of the torque is not constant over the whole range, so it is most likely the rise time in the first part of the step response rather than near the setpoint. The response characteristic is more like a PT1 filter rather than a straight line.
I got a Sport and FCORE for $999 USD from microcenter a few months ago. Couldn’t not buy it at that price. Only problem is I’ve been too lazy to swap out my VRS base!
awesome review again! you should consider reviewing the pxn v12ddl. i’ve seen a few reviews by ocracing and takeover and they both said it’s a pretty great wheel. I ask you because you are easily the best review sim racing channel! much love man ❤️
Amazing analysis and test … as usual . Quick question have already tested the dbox HFL4 ? It looks nice but impossible to find a complete test of this . Thx mate
They need to revise them, with USB hub and add the power and safety like Invicta. and maybe pass through USB which is nice no wires hanging. I would of bought the pro last year but since they have been out for a while I figure a revision was coming. So I bought the Invicta instead. No complains so far.
love your work and how you keep us up todate and relevant. Question. We all do a lot on gear, set ups and FOV etc. But I struggle toi find anything on sound. What would your recommendations be for sound cards, headphones etc etc?
Hi Will, I understand the equipment needed but I’m not sure about the PC end but lack knowledge on how to hook up multiple monitors, specs for a good PC, software, etc.. Is there any guides or books where everything is laid out. Love all the videos, thanks
Got the sport from micro center for 720 usd great wheel base but debating selling it and going for the asetek invicta as i plan on getting a few more wheels for my rig
Also, will you be looking at Moza's force feedback flight stick? I know it's not in your realm of expertise, but you have more experience with force feedback than a lot of the flight guys. It would be really amazing to get your take on it
I think the Ultimate only exists for whales to help keep the prices lower on the other two versions. 15Nm of torque could break your wrists or dislocate a shoulder, especially if you use gloves with a lot of grip. Using max torque on these things for the average person would be like going to the gym on the first day and loading up 2 plates on the squat rack.
if you don't mind, please do a review on PXN direct drive, the PNX v12 Lite and the Pro, I came across it and it seems very interesting, but there's not much review out there
Hi great and detailed video as always. Just a question maybe you can help me with. I have now a DD2 but I am thinking to change either to Simucube Pro or Asetek Invicta (in normal conditions I would go to Simucube for their history and experience, but the lack of active QR is pushing me to Asetek....) In any case with my actual DD2 I also had time ago 2 or 3 times a really frightening experience with the wheel getting crazy at CRAZY!! speeds when crashing or simple touching a wall in iRacing, since then I realize honestly would be a STUPID thing to allow a wheel bigger values than around 15Nm, you would be literally buying tickets to get a broken finger or wrist, so since then I limit in Fanatec driver the Nm to 15. But doing that I assume I am also limiting the slew rate as I understand the slew rate is linked with the total power of the motor, so if I cut this power I assume I am also reducing the slew rate, also when I tested time ago allowing the full 25Nm I in fact realized the wheel was clearly more reactive. Do you know if there is a way to limit in iRacing the max. Nm the sim can request to the base?, so I can allow the full power and consequently the full slew rate in the driver and limiting the Nm in iRacing?. I know how to set the intensity of the ffb in iRacing, but this is not the point, the question is how to limit the absolute amount of Nm iRacing can command to the base, for example in a crash that can be much higher than in normal driving, this is not the same as the strength of the FFB. I look for it but was unable to find a way, I suspect there is not way to do it, but maybe I am missing something.
You can leave it at high or 90 percent or whatever in fanalab. Then in iRacing reduce it. He has a couple of old videos walking you through settings in fanalab. Can also check fanatec forums.
Hi brother, great explanation breakdown. Im new owner of the sim 2 pro here. Do you have a new updated simucube profile settings for the software? And for iracing settings? If you could possibly do a new 2024 settings guide that would be epic. Ive seen many still struggle to get a good baseline setting, myself included. Thanks brother !
i just replaced my dd1 to a alpha u and the upgrade was very noticeable. i didn't know what i was missing as i too have a dd1 i bought like 5 years ago.
So you’re not likely to run in to this with simucube, but going to your comparison chart something I think that often gets overlooked with those weaker bases, typically running them closer to their max performance at least with my Moza R5 a problem I ran into was overheating and losing basically all force feedback in the base. And I wasn’t even running it at 100%, I was running it at 80%, and it very quickly led me to realize I needed a different base. I don’t know if that’s a problem with other weaker bases in that 5Nm range, but it was definitely an issue with the moza.
Remember that we're talking about peak torque here. If you've got a base that can handle transient spikes of say 5NM, and you're constantly truing to run it close to that level for sustained cornering forces you're likely to run into thermal management or just clip.
Maybe it's something more related to Moza. I have a CSL DD with boost kit running it with 8nm and it never gets even really warm to the touch and I never felt any loss of feedback.
@@VictorRomanoyes, the design of the R5-R12 are really stupid, the aluminium block is way to small and it overheats really fast. My r9 used to allow me to drive without reducing ffb but it got crazy hot (75-80°C), touch it and you will get burnt... but after some software changes it now just reduces the ffb even though they said it is not a problem to run it at 80°C 24/7
Hi Will good video. I would like it if you could upload your true drive settings for the pro into true drive paddock for all the sims you play, thanks.
@@designamk1160 Yeah but don’t take that literally man, now at this moment, new products coming constantly so 4 years is like a decade I mean actually…
Mon parcours dans le simracing m'a fait passer part: -Logitech G920 sur Xbox one Passage sur Pc: -CSL DD 8NM, volant CSL P1, Pédales CSL LC simrig bois fabrication maison vend CSL P1 et CSL LC Passage sur McLaren GT3 V2 et Pédales Venym Atrax Vend csl dd, mclaren gt3 v2, venym atrax Passage sur Simagic Alpha mini, GTC pro hub k, p2000 Vend gtc pro hub k Passage sur gt4 Achat Simagic FX pro Vend Simagic alpha mini Passage Alpha 15nm Vend Alpha, Fx pro Achat simucube 2 pro R1 avec 2 QR+ achat simrig profilé aluminium et fabrication des volant pokornyi FGT, GTE Pro v2 et gtb pro Tout ça c'est passer entre Mars 2023 et Mars 2024 simucube est la marque qui m'a fait le plus de sensations dans mon cockpit pour rien au monde je retourne chez fanatec, logitech, Moza seul une Simagic Alpha Ultimate pourrait m’intéressé avec un gt neo, fx pro et gt pro hub
POV: watching a review of a product I bought 5 years ago
😂
Dam and has it ever gave u any problems I stuck between getting the Invicta or simicube I got a r21 right now I just won't to upgrade now 🙃
ditto! :)
@@stacticsgaming9879 I have the Simucube Sport. It's been great!
@@stacticsgaming9879I own both, SC2 Pro is the end game base at this point time. Just took my Invicta off the rig this week and there are things I will miss a little until I swap again, but if you can only get one - go Simucube unless there are other things in the Asetek ecosystem you wanna try that must be used with the Asetek base, like their wheels. Cheers.
I have the Pro and I have absolutely no regrets. It's performed flawlessly since I got it last year. It's a lot to spend, but I'd do it all over again. I probably would have been fine with the Sport; I don't need the extra torque of the Pro nor do I need the extra slew rate for iRacing at least. 4.8 is already faster than a real car anyway from what I hear. The flexibility is where it's nice to have the additional headroom. This wheel can do almost anything.
I could see myself still using mine 30 years from now, if it's still working -- and I wouldn't be surprised if it was, given the build quality. I'm not even slightly tempted by any of the other wheels that have been released or are on the horizon. It's my end game gear, in every sense of the term and I've enjoyed every minute with it.
One thing that is different between ultimate and Sport/pro is warranty. Warranty on Ultimate is 5 years vs Pro/Sport is 2 years. Even if your pro wheelbase fails after warranty period, you can buy another one and still save little bit of money.
Simucube it's like a Toyota warranty. Chances are really high that you will never use it.😂
Local laws might overrule manufacturer warranties though. I believe you'll get 5 years on all of them under EU consumer protection laws.
@@jonasstromstad huh why should u? they have to.gibe 2 years but not 5
I have a buddies with the pro and the sport models. Both are killer for sure! Would love to see the Sport vs VRS vs Asetek Forte at some point!
Indeed, been eyeing the Sport for a while but the Forte looks like the better option now (for me at least).
@@guitarsimon1 I think that integrated USB on asetek is nice. I’m just curious about his thoughts on the VRS back to back with the other 2. It’s down to those 3 for me when I do upgrade next
I got the Sport since 4 years and still really happy with it
I got the Pro about 4 years ago and I'm very happy, but I think the Sport would have been fine and saved me money. This video is spot on about higher slew rate feeling odd, at least for my driving. I limit my wheel to the slew rate of the Sport, and only use 16Nm of max torque anyways.
@@Jimmy_Cherrygood to know, thanks!
Sold my Alpha U based on a few gremlins and some of your views on Simagic vs Simucube and must say it’s worth the extra money. Fantastic product
Sport or pro?
Why did you switch?
This past winter I upgraded from my Fanatec CSL Elite belt driven wheel base to the Simucube 2 Pro (the difference is staggering!) The reason I went for the pro over the sport was because of an older video on this channel discussing the differences like we have here in this one, and much like the conclusions found here, due to the increased slew rate of the pro vs sport and the reasonable price difference, this is why I sided with the pro. Videos like this are fantastic and really helps dispel the myths of bigger is always better and instead focuses on real world scenarios and what players' expectations and their overall understandings should be!
Good explanation! Finaly everybody can see diference between entry DD Fanatec 5Nm and TOP tier! I am on Asetek Invicta spec are bit over Pro for same price, with better QR end some others extras, absolute stuning FFB 🙂
I have had the sport for 3 years and I have it set for 15 nm on Iracing and I love it. It’s a great wheel and I don’t have clipping with head room at 17 nm. I would recommend it.
Did you use the same True Drive settings for all bases? Always wondered how much different using a shared Ultimate profile with Overall strength set to 15 Nm with Slew Rate Limit set to 1.50 on a Pro base feels. Alternatively using a Sport profile on a Pro base.
I'd like to see a video on the True Drive software and your settings for different sims and how in-game settings affect feel.
Thanks for the content Will. I got into sim racing watching your initial overview/review of the simucube 2 models couple years ago. I have the Sport and I'm still debating myself with stepping up into the Pro. The Sport never missed a beat since day 1, I've recently been going back and forth with a change.
Bought my sport and a gsi x-29 wheel combo from Microcenter for 1000 dollars. I have no regrets.
Fully agree with the verdict - I've never seen anyone doing competitive racing at 30nm, ever.
And frankly I consider it nothing but a nuisance and extremely dangerous - especially the spikes are something you do not want ever - they might just be the thing breaking a finger or at least making you regret that race and having a sore wrist / whatever for a day or a few.
11 is fine for pretty much most people, 15 is a lot already 20 is basically already gym territory - at those force you should question if you really wanna drive a car or just wanna work out.
The only possible use case I could imagine is maybe a go kart training setup - but those are weird to simulate anyway.
Still rocking a Simucube1 20Nm Mige, the good gear gets supported for longer: despite SC1 being discontinued I was (with a bit of hunting) able to buy Simucube BT unit for wireless wheel, upgrade the encoder to 22-bit & install driver updates through to Aug 2023. The latter might have ceased, but still is fine DD wheel in regular use today and Simucube keep some old the SC1 boards in stock as spares for existing owners. Simcore used to sell BT module but seem sold out, new Simucube Link Hub will connect to wireless wheels.
Where did you find the BT module?
@@Keroppi6670 simcore, but sold out now, believe you can use simucube link hub to do the same thing.
@@Keroppi6670 simcore but they seem to be sold out. New Simucube Link Hub will do the same thing.
@@Keroppi6670 not sure why my reply keeps getting deleted. Bought from Simcore, but no longer in stock. Simucube Link Hub does the same thing.
@@Keroppi6670 all seems sold out now, Simucube Link Hub will do the same thing.
Top quality video that was what I was talking about back when I was involved in the industry. I personally went the pro back when they were first released.
I've had a pro since they were released and always run it at 100% in true drive and run whatever the car will produce Nm wise, I've never been tempted to turn it down.
I'm also over 2m tall and 120kg, so I'm probably better equipped to handle it than your average simracer.
I don't think I'll ever need to upgrade.
I have Simucube 2 Pro and a VRS Direct Force Pro, both are kind of wasted on me. A 10nm/15nm base would suit me just fine, even 15nm would be overkill.
I run mine at 100% in True Drive but scale the force back in whatever sim I'm in. Are you suggesting you run in-game FFB settings at 100% too?? That's like trying to turn a vehicle that was build for power steering after the power steering failed. Fun to try at least once but I couldn't imagine running like that all the time.
@AdamsOlympia I run truedrive at 100% but let the game (iracing) output what the car runs at, so whatever the car would run at in real life is what it runs at for me. The max output varies greatly across the range of cars in iracing.
@@phillberry2444 Oh, I understand now. I haven't spent more than a few minutes in iRacing, so I wasn't aware that was a thing. Sounds like an awesome feature! ...
@AdamsOlympia it works very well, you can cap or scale the output for wheel bases that aren't high output but the SC2 pro can handle anything that iRacing puts out, I'm probably on the outer limits, I guess not to many run higher levels of FFB.
But it's great to have options.
The hardest part of my SIM racing journey has been deciding what to change too. I first went with Fanatec eco system but now I only pc race and I kinda want to move away from the console stuff. So much out there, and it's tough trying to decide. Thanks to yall for all the help and research you and yo brother do. STILL DONT KNOW WHAT TO GO WITH THO! lol
I had the same situation as you 2 years ago, I went with Simucube 2 Pro. Best purchase in my 5 years of simracing.
Seriously bro was in the same position as you - I can guarantee move to SC I have the pro - man unless you own one you just do not know what you were missing - so worth the money & investment .....
worth the money yes, but it's not an investment lol
I'm actually hoping a Simucube 3 will pop up any time soon.... with passthrough USB quick disconnect ^^
I wonder if the SC3 is their secret project they plan to announce on Oct 10th.
If they start doing power and data through the shaft, I hope they also keep wireless + battery powered wheels as an option.
When they designed their wheelbase, I think the choice to go wireless was an attempt to make it as fail proof as possible, since shaft pass-thru can be a common point of failure on other wheels, due to the amount of strain those connections are under.
Run my 15nm base at 65% most of the time, turn it down to 50% when my teenage son uses it (so about 10nm / 8nm). Only thing I notice at 100% is the fatigue that sets in after 5 or 6 laps, at 65% I'm fine.
Why did you decide to adjust the True Drive force and not the in game force?
@@JonRacesCars 🤔 If he did this, he would still have the maximum torque peaks, right??
After T-GT, DD Pro, DD1, DD+, SC2 Sport, Asetek Invicta… currently, SC2 Pro. It’s nice to know personally (not web based opinion), that you are using the best overall. I am good until we hear about Simucube SC3 or Fanatec Podium V2. Cheers, thanks for everything Will & Tim.
i have the pro, can't imagine i'd want to upgrade for a very long time
just ordered the simucube 2 pro and used your code, cant wait! 😍
I have the Pro 2, and it's almost perfect. The only complaint I have about the wheelbase is the power button located on the back. My midget arms can barely reach it, especially after a race
Spend the extra $129 and buy the upgraded e-stop. Money well spent.
Like he said, you can buy the upgraded eStop with a power button which is really nice. Toward the end of the year they're always on sale. I paid 60 bucks for my upgraded e stop. Got tired of reaching in the rear and felt I might end up breaking it.
I have never used the power button myself. I just use an inline off/on switch, got the idea from the Simucube guys on discord works just fine.
In addition to the graph it would be necessary to show the settings in TD and in the various simulators, each time it seems a secret to show how to set the foundations perfectly. It would be great to see that graph made then practically on the software of the base and on iracing ACC LMU and other simulators, so as to make it clear even to those who claim to always have to put everything to the maximum that is not needed. It would be practical proof that using the basics in a certain way we do not lose details, on the contrary it is the opposite. I hope you will make this practical video. Thank you as always for the explanations
Thanks for the informative video Will. I guess as the majority of clipping comes from say a sudden crash or the like then I am not too concerned because I am not interested in details if I am hitting a wall. That said my Alpha Mini does well especially when allowing for a bit of headroom in torque settings which is probably closer to a max of 13.5nm and not 10 from all accounts. I did consider buying the 15nm Alpha however due to price point and as I carry an ongoing shoulder injury, I went with the Mini. Do I regret it ? No, all the important details are there and ffb is more than enough.
Had my Pro for a year now. Came from a Logitech G923 and the difference is obviously staggering! Went for the Pro as it’s not that much more than the Sport.
Good review. The only thing you omitted in my opinion is the constant force reduction filter, which is one of the peculiarities of the simucube software.
Thanks to this filter you have the possibility to reduce the force when you are in cornering (and thus you have an almost constant force on the steering wheel) but at the same time it allows you to set a higher general force value that allows you to perceive asphalt roughness and bumpiness more accurately. Which you would lose by lowering the overall force level too much.
This was discussed in relation to non-linear response. :)
and the simucube staff itself says that it is better not to touch it because it induces a drop in FFB and does not make you feel anything more.
I use whole 25nm with 100% in-game force for the karting in assetto corsa nice mods for sodi kart. Because of how small wheel steering is required. For acc usually around 40% force.
I don't know what you look like but I imagine you have to turn sideways to fit through doorways.
Hey Will, could you share your settings on True Drive? I'm looking for a good ACC profile. Thanks!
funfact acording to scott dickson indycar driver 15nm is more powerfull than indycars steering and they lack power steering
Will, if you had to choose between the Simucube 2 Pro and the Asetek Invicta or the Simagic Alpha U (ultimate), which would you choose. Still deciding on my route upgrading from a Fanatec DD1.
Edit: a comparison of those 3 wheel bases by the way would be very welcome. There seem to not be many reviews about the Simagic Alpha U out there yet.
There’s so little in it between the three I really think it comes down to which ecosystem you prefer. Covered here: ua-cam.com/video/gvBrsTHwbYk/v-deo.htmlsi=K_gXIT0UHx2mIcGL
@@boostedmedia thanks for your review, another awesome video. I think I will upgrade my csl dd 8nm to the cs dd plus. I think simucube 2 is superior than cs dd+ but I own a Fanatec eco system and I think that an upgrade from csl dd to cs dd plus is good enough
I have a fanatec DD2 and never have the FF above 6-7. The Porsche GT3 cup at 5.5-6 is almost exactly like my GT3 racecar on slicks. Most sports cars have power steering now and you don’t have to fight the wheel or the car. I guess if you do a lot of open wheel racing I you may want the FF higher but I think you end up fighting the wheel, instead of being precise.
Hi Will,
I have never seen you mention how much noise the Simucube 2 Pro makes... I have the SC2 Pro and compared to my previous Simagic Alpha it is very loud. There is a rattling sound when driving. There are lots of videos on the web showing how noisy it is - and none of the reviews mention this...
I'm not entirely convinced that the explanation of the slew rate is completely correct. The rise time of the torque is not constant over the whole range, so it is most likely the rise time in the first part of the step response rather than near the setpoint. The response characteristic is more like a PT1 filter rather than a straight line.
Honestly, how good is sim racing ❤
I got a Sport and FCORE for $999 USD from microcenter a few months ago. Couldn’t not buy it at that price. Only problem is I’ve been too lazy to swap out my VRS base!
Same! Can't imagine ever wanting more strength than we get with the Sport
awesome review again! you should consider reviewing the pxn v12ddl. i’ve seen a few reviews by ocracing and takeover and they both said it’s a pretty great wheel. I ask you because you are easily the best review sim racing channel! much love man ❤️
When I upgraded my csw 2.5 almost 4 years ago I bought the pro instead of the sport because of the slew rate because I drift for the most
Great informative video as always
If you were spending your own money would you buy the Forte or Invicta base ?
Ultimate is feasible for niche cases such as BeamNG off road and such to replicate an old LandCruiser on the rocks.
Amazing analysis and test … as usual .
Quick question have already tested the dbox HFL4 ? It looks nice but impossible to find a complete test of this .
Thx mate
They need to revise them, with USB hub and add the power and safety like Invicta. and maybe pass through USB which is nice no wires hanging. I would of bought the pro last year but since they have been out for a while I figure a revision was coming. So I bought the Invicta instead. No complains so far.
love your work and how you keep us up todate and relevant. Question. We all do a lot on gear, set ups and FOV etc. But I struggle toi find anything on sound. What would your recommendations be for sound cards, headphones etc etc?
Hi Will, I understand the equipment needed but I’m not sure about the PC end but lack knowledge on how to hook up multiple monitors, specs for a good PC, software, etc.. Is there any guides or books where everything is laid out. Love all the videos, thanks
Got the sport from micro center for 720 usd great wheel base but debating selling it and going for the asetek invicta as i plan on getting a few more wheels for my rig
Also, will you be looking at Moza's force feedback flight stick? I know it's not in your realm of expertise, but you have more experience with force feedback than a lot of the flight guys. It would be really amazing to get your take on it
We will! Won’t be me doing the review though. Will have some news on this soon :)
Hi mate, I’m wondering which sim racing pedals would be the most similar to a road car. Thanks
I think the Ultimate only exists for whales to help keep the prices lower on the other two versions. 15Nm of torque could break your wrists or dislocate a shoulder, especially if you use gloves with a lot of grip. Using max torque on these things for the average person would be like going to the gym on the first day and loading up 2 plates on the squat rack.
if you don't mind, please do a review on PXN direct drive, the PNX v12 Lite and the Pro, I came across it and it seems very interesting, but there's not much review out there
I’m just about to buy one thanks
Hi great and detailed video as always. Just a question maybe you can help me with. I have now a DD2 but I am thinking to change either to Simucube Pro or Asetek Invicta (in normal conditions I would go to Simucube for their history and experience, but the lack of active QR is pushing me to Asetek....) In any case with my actual DD2 I also had time ago 2 or 3 times a really frightening experience with the wheel getting crazy at CRAZY!! speeds when crashing or simple touching a wall in iRacing, since then I realize honestly would be a STUPID thing to allow a wheel bigger values than around 15Nm, you would be literally buying tickets to get a broken finger or wrist, so since then I limit in Fanatec driver the Nm to 15. But doing that I assume I am also limiting the slew rate as I understand the slew rate is linked with the total power of the motor, so if I cut this power I assume I am also reducing the slew rate, also when I tested time ago allowing the full 25Nm I in fact realized the wheel was clearly more reactive. Do you know if there is a way to limit in iRacing the max. Nm the sim can request to the base?, so I can allow the full power and consequently the full slew rate in the driver and limiting the Nm in iRacing?. I know how to set the intensity of the ffb in iRacing, but this is not the point, the question is how to limit the absolute amount of Nm iRacing can command to the base, for example in a crash that can be much higher than in normal driving, this is not the same as the strength of the FFB. I look for it but was unable to find a way, I suspect there is not way to do it, but maybe I am missing something.
You can leave it at high or 90 percent or whatever in fanalab. Then in iRacing reduce it. He has a couple of old videos walking you through settings in fanalab. Can also check fanatec forums.
What are your thoughts on getting the Pro vs the Invicta wheelbase?
The answer is in the comments, just below 😉
Could you test the force feedback on the ultimate and the asetek 27nm to see how strong they are to compare them?
Hi brother, great explanation breakdown. Im new owner of the sim 2 pro here. Do you have a new updated simucube profile settings for the software? And for iracing settings?
If you could possibly do a new 2024 settings guide that would be epic. Ive seen many still struggle to get a good baseline setting, myself included. Thanks brother !
what s the wheel at 12:14 , why there s no wire link ? how
amazing video as always :-)
I wish this video came out before i bought my base, but im glad i bought my DD1, and i typically run it about 40% - 50% linear torque from the DD1
i just replaced my dd1 to a alpha u and the upgrade was very noticeable. i didn't know what i was missing as i too have a dd1 i bought like 5 years ago.
Just ordered pro currently using dd1 can’t wait to try it out 😬
just tried a simucube at micro center with iracing and it felt to real. (my very first time using a sim)
Drifting in AC with a Sport and changing the slew rate from maximum to minimum I can not tell the difference in how fast the wheel spins.
Its only going to be the initial response that changes in sharpness. It won't reduce the RPM overall.
You are the best mate.
Cheers
the Porsche running at Nordschleife? Is that AC or ACC?
So you’re not likely to run in to this with simucube, but going to your comparison chart something I think that often gets overlooked with those weaker bases, typically running them closer to their max performance at least with my Moza R5 a problem I ran into was overheating and losing basically all force feedback in the base. And I wasn’t even running it at 100%, I was running it at 80%, and it very quickly led me to realize I needed a different base. I don’t know if that’s a problem with other weaker bases in that 5Nm range, but it was definitely an issue with the moza.
Remember that we're talking about peak torque here. If you've got a base that can handle transient spikes of say 5NM, and you're constantly truing to run it close to that level for sustained cornering forces you're likely to run into thermal management or just clip.
Maybe it's something more related to Moza.
I have a CSL DD with boost kit running it with 8nm and it never gets even really warm to the touch and I never felt any loss of feedback.
@@VictorRomanoyes, the design of the R5-R12 are really stupid, the aluminium block is way to small and it overheats really fast. My r9 used to allow me to drive without reducing ffb but it got crazy hot (75-80°C), touch it and you will get burnt... but after some software changes it now just reduces the ffb even though they said it is not a problem to run it at 80°C 24/7
Yep. Have the pro. Zero interest in the ultimate and honestly - lol you called it - I forgot it existed until I watched this today.
Hi Will good video. I would like it if you could upload your true drive settings for the pro into true drive paddock for all the sims you play, thanks.
I got the Moza R12, its way to powerfull for me at 100% so 12nm is enough, guess my normal strenght is around 6-7nm.
will you be doing a review on the aiologs h shifter when it comes out?
Can you make a similar video, with the vnm base and the simucube pro or ultimate??
@@Max__apex !!!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂
I think I have a champion 🤣🤣🤣
This has me thinking about selling my Ultimate and buying a Pro...
il buy your ultimate if the price is good
I'm looking at simucube pro vs asetek invicta
Vrs dd or simucube sport?
I feel the the Pro is the best deal.
Until the software (I mean the FFB in sim racing) is improved or rethink with direct drive in mind. I think over 10nm is not really enjoyable.
Ultimate is sold out so time to marketing SC2 PRO & Sport 😅
I LOVE YOU
Watching a review on something I absolutely WILL NOT be purchasing (too expensive).
I regret getting Moza
Why’s that?
Wooooooooooooow woooooooooooooooooooooow wooooooooooooow woooooooooooooooooooooow 🎉❤
hi
Follow you!
But I am a Professional Driver 😂
WHEN SC3 will come out ….? It’s been a decade that these came out. Already pretty old by now. Time for something new.
@@designamk1160 Since when I said 10 years ago ? Read carefully my man, read carefully 😉
@@designamk1160 Yeah but don’t take that literally man, now at this moment, new products coming constantly so 4 years is like a decade I mean actually…
@@designamk1160 Man just live on, it’s not the end of the world. Just go simrace 😮💨
@@designamk1160 APOLOGIES !!!! 🫡
Mon parcours dans le simracing m'a fait passer part:
-Logitech G920 sur Xbox one
Passage sur Pc:
-CSL DD 8NM, volant CSL P1, Pédales CSL LC simrig bois fabrication maison
vend CSL P1 et CSL LC Passage sur McLaren GT3 V2 et Pédales Venym Atrax
Vend csl dd, mclaren gt3 v2, venym atrax Passage sur Simagic Alpha mini, GTC pro hub k, p2000
Vend gtc pro hub k Passage sur gt4
Achat Simagic FX pro
Vend Simagic alpha mini Passage Alpha 15nm
Vend Alpha, Fx pro
Achat simucube 2 pro R1 avec 2 QR+ achat simrig profilé aluminium et fabrication des volant pokornyi FGT, GTE Pro v2 et gtb pro
Tout ça c'est passer entre Mars 2023 et Mars 2024 simucube est la marque qui m'a fait le plus de sensations dans mon cockpit pour rien au monde je retourne chez fanatec, logitech, Moza seul une Simagic Alpha Ultimate pourrait m’intéressé avec un gt neo, fx pro et gt pro hub