24 " Timberlok hex head , driven thru 17 " Oak Logs ( outside walls ) without pre- drilling a single hole ! That was over 20 years ago. Only the first 4 inches of the screws had threads and did not break off any heads , did break and strip a couple bits. Also I used a industrial impact driver that can't be bought at any Lowes or Home Depot, you find them at industrial Tool supplies in your bigger cities. I have been installing bolts , screws and all types of hardware for 45 years and was sold on the Timberlok products and other types that have come along that seem to have been forged like SPRING STEEL .....yet rust resistant on most . Never walk out of a supply with just a bucket of screws in your had because it throws you off balance, walk out with two buckets, one in each hand and walking straight and with purpose !
Would FlatLOK be ok to assemble a three by 2x12 12 feet long beam together? Also i looked at the technical guide, would i install screws on both sides of the beam or just one?
Fasten Master - Absolutely great for screwing down a deck. I used them in about 2000 and last year had to undo them all. The boards looked too crappy with weathering after 20 years (cedar). To turn the deck boards over, I had to dig the deck coating out of each screw, which was tedious but easy, back out the screws and turn the board over to screw the deck back down. And used the same screws! That 𝑛𝑒𝑣𝑒𝑟 would have been possible with Phillips or Torx. Timberlok and Headlok - I've used both to bolt together logs in a buck & rail fence. I was NOT going to beat the heck out of my 70 year old wrists pounding spikes. These were awesome. No pounding. When I had to re-adjust, nothing to it. I backed them out and put them back in. More expensive than spikes but 𝐭𝐨𝐭𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐲 worth it. I used 6" and 8" with a few 10s on the larger bucks.
Great video. Question. Can I use the 4 1/2 inch Headok to attach a horizontal 2x4 to a vertical 4x4 when building a shadow box fence? I usually use lag bolts countersunk. Thanks.
Great explanation of the usage for the various fasteners and lengths. The Fastenmaster brand has become more expensive for a reason -- they make a quality product that is in demand. I totally agree that you should buy them in bulk (those 50-count packages add up pretty quick).
Cool stuff. Really need to figure out that auto-focus thing though. Probably need to go full manual focus or figure out an angle to shoot from that doesn't make auto focus wig out.
Thi either the Canon R series mirrorless with auto eye focus or what I use, Nikon Z series mirrorless, all auto focus. But to pull focus you need a Focus puller setup to key in on those tight shots.
What length fastener to fasten ledger through brick home and into beam behind brick? This is for a non-weight bearing pergola ledger to brick home back porch. Ledgers just above back door so should have a beam to grab. Already have 16” staggered tapcons.
GRK and spa are equally as good....Ive used a variety of brands . Simpsons with hex head offer more grip; an advantage if you think you’ll have to remove /withdraw/reinsert. Fi be/ideal for covered/unseen joists. But they stick up/out a bit more. The GRK have lowest profile, and SPAX has a bit wider integrated washer. GRK and SPAX are a different color. I would never usE a lag screw again ! However, NB , these cant replace lag bolts IMO.
First of all! thanks a lot for all the knowledge and always helpful tips. Question: How many ledger locks do you have to use in a ledger? I know every build is completely different. For example, Do I use 2 ledger locks in between joists spaces (16'') assuming there is 16 spacing? thanks a lot
PLEASE HELP: ANYTHING HELPS. I will be installing some melamine cabinets soon and the wall has plywood behind it. My cabinet backing is 3/4 I would assume the sheetrock is 1/2 and plywood 3/4 or maybe half? ANY IDEA on what screws I should use for extra strength any tips help thank you! I usually use 3” screws when I install these sort of cabinets but just the thought of the plywood behind it makes me worried. I know where the studs are behind the sheetrock and plywood but still. I was just thinking of putting Atleast 4 in each section and legs for extra strength TIA!! Anything helps thanks guys!!
Take one of those smaller screws you show there and screw one into a board till it comes through the other side. Then hit the screw with a hammer .. If the screw breaks off instead of bending then there isn't enough tensile strength to be used for framing!
Great content, I liked and subbed...How would you fasted a ledgerboard to a steel framed house? I can find no structural wood to steel screws anywhere, except for a simpson screw, which I can only find sold in quantities of almost $200. Also, bolting through isn't an option because I can't get to the back side of the steel without destroying the interior of the house. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
You should hit on the difficulties of hanging a ledger on a house with TJI joists and band boards ! We will usually run notched 4x4's every 6' down to the existing footers next to the house as extra insurance of framing stability.
I’m currently in the process of making a triple 2x10x16 glu-lam beam to be used as a secondary support under my new kitchen island. I purchased Simpson’s SDWS Timber Screws but am thinking 4” might be too large. Would the FastenMaster’s Ledgerlock at 3 5/8” be a better idea? I plan on alternating sides with a staggered pattern 16” on center, with Loctite PL Premium Max sandwiched in between the boards.
I've used plenty of both but I prefer the Headloks. How "proprietary" is a bit if it is commonly available? None of my Fastenmaster bits have stripped out on me, so I have plenty of new ones that came with the fasteners. One fastener I will never use again are the Mitek structural screws -- a pia going in and even worse if you have to take them out. They are expensive and both the screws and the bits will strip.
@@brikshoe6259 i wouldn't call it common, you can't buy it at the autostore or a supermarket. Whereas you can get torx almost anywhere. How "proprietary"? Well my car, equipment, and other tools doesn't use that bit. If i go fix, upgrade, modify or replace something where the previous person use headlock, i wouldn't be able to remove it with my common bits. So yeah, its very proprietary like Apple screws.
Robertson heads are the best screw head that’s why it holds without being magnetized. Also a lot harder strip a Robertson screw compared to Phillips head screw. Just Americans don’t like using the Robertson screw for some reason. Not sure if that’s cause a Canadian invented it or what but anything comes from states never uses them
I'm not a fan of Fastenmaster's 8 spline drive - not nearly as robust as Simpson's equivalents which use regular Torx bits. Fastenmaster's 8 spline are very easy to burr over and no longer be usable. Plus, it's a negative in my book to use a proprietary bit. Then the bolts are too thin. My preference are for GSK and Simpson only. Also, Spax are hopeless
24 " Timberlok hex head , driven thru 17 " Oak Logs ( outside walls ) without pre- drilling a single hole ! That was over 20 years ago. Only the first 4 inches of the screws had threads and did not break off any heads , did break and strip a couple bits. Also I used a industrial impact driver that can't be bought at any Lowes or Home Depot, you find them at industrial Tool supplies in your bigger cities. I have been installing bolts , screws and all types of hardware for 45 years and was sold on the Timberlok products and other types that have come along that seem to have been forged like SPRING STEEL .....yet rust resistant on most . Never walk out of a supply with just a bucket of screws in your had because it throws you off balance, walk out with two buckets, one in each hand and walking straight and with purpose !
I am not sure about the other companies but Milwaukee makes the spider drive bits now.
I used some timberloks in my backyard deck build after seeing this video. Thank you for the detailed breakdown. It was very helpful.
Would FlatLOK be ok to assemble a three by 2x12 12 feet long beam together? Also i looked at the technical guide, would i install screws on both sides of the beam or just one?
Do you like the Thrulocs for deck rail posts?
What materials are the screws made of
I am building an arbor and this is very helpful! Thanks!
Fasten Master - Absolutely great for screwing down a deck. I used them in about 2000 and last year had to undo them all. The boards looked too crappy with weathering after 20 years (cedar). To turn the deck boards over, I had to dig the deck coating out of each screw, which was tedious but easy, back out the screws and turn the board over to screw the deck back down. And used the same screws!
That 𝑛𝑒𝑣𝑒𝑟 would have been possible with Phillips or Torx.
Timberlok and Headlok - I've used both to bolt together logs in a buck & rail fence. I was NOT going to beat the heck out of my 70 year old wrists pounding spikes. These were awesome. No pounding. When I had to re-adjust, nothing to it. I backed them out and put them back in. More expensive than spikes but 𝐭𝐨𝐭𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐲 worth it. I used 6" and 8" with a few 10s on the larger bucks.
This might be a dumb question, but can you use Headloks for ledgers?
Great video. Question. Can I use the 4 1/2 inch Headok to attach a horizontal 2x4 to a vertical 4x4 when building a shadow box fence? I usually use lag bolts countersunk. Thanks.
Are all of these designed to be used with pressure treated lumber?
Great explanation of the usage for the various fasteners and lengths. The Fastenmaster brand has become more expensive for a reason -- they make a quality product that is in demand. I totally agree that you should buy them in bulk (those 50-count packages add up pretty quick).
Square drive? It's a Robinson bit. Been using them in Canada for decades.
Cool stuff. Really need to figure out that auto-focus thing though. Probably need to go full manual focus or figure out an angle to shoot from that doesn't make auto focus wig out.
We are patiently waiting for the GH6 to come out.
Thi either the Canon R series mirrorless with auto eye focus or what I use, Nikon Z series mirrorless, all auto focus. But to pull focus you need a Focus puller setup to key in on those tight shots.
You can use a #3 phillips on the headlok
Good to know
I really appreciate this man, Thank-you!
Triple hammer impact driver. Must have!
The man behind the curtain!
you can't get those ledger locks longer?
I'm sticking with Simpson fasteners for my deck rebuild.
What length fastener to fasten ledger through brick home and into beam behind brick? This is for a non-weight bearing pergola ledger to brick home back porch. Ledgers just above back door so should have a beam to grab. Already have 16” staggered tapcons.
GRK and spa are equally as good....Ive used a variety of brands . Simpsons with hex head offer more grip; an advantage if you think you’ll have to remove /withdraw/reinsert. Fi be/ideal for covered/unseen joists. But they stick up/out a bit more. The GRK have lowest profile, and SPAX has a bit wider integrated washer. GRK and SPAX are a different color. I would never usE a lag screw again ! However, NB , these cant replace lag bolts IMO.
Spax for me. I used the 8" headlock and had to take a few of them back out. Some of them just broke.
First of all! thanks a lot for all the knowledge and always helpful tips. Question: How many ledger locks do you have to use in a ledger? I know every build is completely different. For example, Do I use 2 ledger locks in between joists spaces (16'') assuming there is 16 spacing? thanks a lot
why not grk or spax?
Red Robertson (2) best cheap option. Square drive has some slop
If you lose your spider bit you can use a PH3... it takes a lot of pressure, but can still drive it.
PLEASE HELP: ANYTHING HELPS. I will be installing some melamine cabinets soon and the wall has plywood behind it. My cabinet backing is 3/4 I would assume the sheetrock is 1/2 and plywood 3/4 or maybe half? ANY IDEA on what screws I should use for extra strength any tips help thank you! I usually use 3” screws when I install these sort of cabinets but just the thought of the plywood behind it makes me worried. I know where the studs are behind the sheetrock and plywood but still. I was just thinking of putting Atleast 4 in each section and legs for extra strength TIA!! Anything helps thanks guys!!
Take one of those smaller screws you show there and screw one into a board till it comes through the other side. Then hit the screw with a hammer .. If the screw breaks off instead of bending then there isn't enough tensile strength to be used for framing!
I'm pretty sure nobody is framing with screws 🤣
Great information
Great content, I liked and subbed...How would you fasted a ledgerboard to a steel framed house? I can find no structural wood to steel screws anywhere, except for a simpson screw, which I can only find sold in quantities of almost $200. Also, bolting through isn't an option because I can't get to the back side of the steel without destroying the interior of the house. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Cool stuff
You should hit on the difficulties of hanging a ledger on a house with TJI joists and band boards ! We will usually run notched 4x4's every 6' down to the existing footers next to the house as extra insurance of framing stability.
Notching is bad, because they crack in between if the structure move, I see a lot of them cracked after awhile.
@@jejemon123 You must be taking to much meat out.. I only notch an inch .,, Green lumber has a tendency to crack all over on each edge
@@Delphisteve notching is bad.
I’m currently in the process of making a triple 2x10x16 glu-lam beam to be used as a secondary support under my new kitchen island. I purchased Simpson’s SDWS Timber Screws but am thinking 4” might be too large. Would the FastenMaster’s Ledgerlock at 3 5/8” be a better idea? I plan on alternating sides with a staggered pattern 16” on center, with Loctite PL Premium Max sandwiched in between the boards.
4” should be ok
Still can't get these in the UK 😭
are these good for trusses( fasten master 2-7/8 flat lok)
You can use FastenMaster FlatLOKs for LVL’s and trusses!
If a tradesman says it's good it hasn't failed him. . .thanks for the info . . nice deck builds
Believe it or not, german auto manufacturers have been using that 12 point drive for decades. You can buy them at napa or thru snap-on.
Lowe’s and Home Depot stock spider bits.
Headlock is snake oil requiring a proprietary bit. You can drill GRK RSS into any type of lumber with the "inferior" Torx bit.
Don’t shoot the messenger
I've used plenty of both but I prefer the Headloks. How "proprietary" is a bit if it is commonly available? None of my Fastenmaster bits have stripped out on me, so I have plenty of new ones that came with the fasteners. One fastener I will never use again are the Mitek structural screws -- a pia going in and even worse if you have to take them out. They are expensive and both the screws and the bits will strip.
@@brikshoe6259 i wouldn't call it common, you can't buy it at the autostore or a supermarket. Whereas you can get torx almost anywhere. How "proprietary"? Well my car, equipment, and other tools doesn't use that bit. If i go fix, upgrade, modify or replace something where the previous person use headlock, i wouldn't be able to remove it with my common bits. So yeah, its very proprietary like Apple screws.
@@Pepe-dq2ib every box you buy has a bit in it. Ive rarely needed another one.
Call a Robertson bit.
Robertson heads are the best screw head that’s why it holds without being magnetized. Also a lot harder strip a Robertson screw compared to Phillips head screw. Just Americans don’t like using the Robertson screw for some reason. Not sure if that’s cause a Canadian invented it or what but anything comes from states never uses them
Torx/star and spider have clearly eclipsed Robertson
you didnt show what screws to use with simson brackets
I'm not a fan of Fastenmaster's 8 spline drive - not nearly as robust as Simpson's equivalents which use regular Torx bits. Fastenmaster's 8 spline are very easy to burr over and no longer be usable. Plus, it's a negative in my book to use a proprietary bit. Then the bolts are too thin. My preference are for GSK and Simpson only. Also, Spax are hopeless
They are expensive but beats buying hardware am thinking
Hello, I am in the fastener business. May I collaborate
with you?😊
What volt batteries are you using, 18 or 36?
36 multivolt
@@drdecks thank you J
The proper name is spline drive. Although spider drive does sound cooler.
They are called whatever Fastenmaster says they are, get a grip kiddo
I set 😂😂🎉😢😂😮😮😅😅😢🎉😂❤😅Thanks ❤😊😊😊😊😊😊😊