one cool feature of digital calipers that I don't see a lot of people taking advantage of is if you want to know the distance between two holes of the same diameter you can zero the ID jaws of your caliper in one of the holes and then span across both holes and it will give you the center to center distance
Thanks, Joe! Another great trick when using the zero function on a digital caliper is using it to determine the distance between the center of 2 matching holes. For example, let's say you take a scrap block of aluminum and drill a pair of parallel 0.250 inch holes through it. To determine the distance between centers, you measure the Inside Diameter of one of the holes, and Zero the caliper at that measurement. You can the measure the inside diameter ACROSS both holes (from the left side of the left hole, to the right side of the right hole), and the zeroes caliper will read the distance between the Center of each hole. If on the other hand, you are faced with 2 studs, bolts, or pins, you can apply the same technique to measure the Outside of the pins, and the caliper will give you the same measurement. Note that the holes must be the same diameter for this to work. I'd the diameters are different, you need to add both diameters and decide by 2, and zero your caliper at that length first.
One really handy feature with the digital you missed that I use all the time; Measuring the distance between two holes, or two pins, etc., as long as the two have the same diameter. Measure one of the holes with the inside (or the pin with the outside) and set your zero to that. Now measure over the pins outside (or the holes inside) and you get the distance between. In effect you are subtracting twice the radius of the feature to get the center to center distance. I also use it occasionally for calculating dovetails to get the distance between pin centers. Also may work for thread wires to get the P.D., but I haven't tried it yet. It's nice to have a settable reference whenever you need it.
Another added benefit of the digital is, measuring center to center spacing on hole pairs. Set up the caliper to measure one of the IDs with the upper jaws, then Zero it out. Stick one upper jaw in one hole and the other jaw in the other hole. The reading will be center to center on the holes. Obviously it only works if the 2 holes are the same diameter.
I was in a bearing supplier recently; they used dial calipers and vernier calipers to check sizes. The customer next to me asked "Why no digital calipers?" The answers: ** "Guys didn't always check they were "Zeroed." ** "Batteries did not last as long as advertised." ** "It was always the digital ones that get stolen off the counter... nobody wants to steal the others."
The two reason you mentioned (especially the ability to zero on a standard) are EXACTLY why I prefer my digital over a dial. As a PRS shooter / reloader, I use the "zero on standard" function all the till for checking cartridge cases and ogive lengths on my loaded rounds.
a verynear (lol) dial caliper can also be set to a zero anywhere along the scale by rotating the dial to do overs and unders. Just the other day I was in the shop and neither one of my digitals would work. One of the HF $9 dial calipers I leave laying around the shop did the quick measurement I needed. Thanks for the videos you do Joe. I've learned a lot from them.
Love my digital which also measures in fractional parts of an inch. Also good for converting between fractional and decimal. The only advantage of my dial caliper is, the batteries never go dead. :-)
I did not know you could use the step for height gauge. I just got a job a couple months ago at a injection mold machine shop. After about a year of UA-cam education. So I'm really learning fast now. Thanks a lot Joe for all the help!
Hi Joe, not sure if anybody has commented as there are 576+ comments, but you can also find the centerline distance of two holes by measuring the ID of one hole, and zero the reading. Then measure the outside radius of the two holes and the reading will be the centerline of both holes. Of course it only works if the holes are the same diameter +or- a couple of tho’s……….. as always, thanks for all your wonderful and educational videos!!!!
Some other good and bad things: Digital + Hold button - make a measurement where you can reach but not see directly. + Data logging - Record the value automatically. - Accuracy - besides the accuracy of the tool itself you have to add the value of the least significant number the display can show! (Taught to me by an Mitutoyo specialist, wit an analog we can say if the value is above or below the indicated, not with a digital.) Vernier / Dial + Works without batteries! - Risk of parallax error
another advantage of the digital caliper is that there is no rack gear to pick up small chips and then break off a tooth on the dial. That said, i still prefer the dial calipers for a number of reasons; (1) the "analog" movement of the pointer on the dial gives a steadier reading (not flickering). (2) the older dial calipers are structurally sturdier, and (3)the digital readout to the 0.0005" - half thousandths gives a false sense of accuracy. In an experienced machinist's hands I trust it to +/- 0.001" at best, but in an inexperienced user's hands even though the readout is to the 1/2 thou., the flimsiness of the digital caliper's structure will be at best +/- .005" IMO.
For those that have battery issues with the digital calipers, Try cleaning the contacts with a #2 pencil eraser. I did this several years back and it seemed to have stopped the problem. We used to clean our comm gear this way in the service.
Just one comment when your done for the day and you put your dial or digatial calipers away try to leave a few thousand gap between the measuring anvils weather dial calipers or micrometer to keep rust from forming when they are closed tight. Just a thought from a machinists since 1971 till retirement 9-30-19. Keep the videos rolling I'm always looking for new way to do things. They say you can always teach an old dog new tricks,lol
Beachbum I believe the reason you never leave a measuring instrument fully closed (assuming it is capable of a zero measurement) is to prevent temperature change from putting undue stress over time on the frame. Since most faces are stainless or carbide it is unlikely oxidation would take place. Very few young machinists are taught this any more, so I applaud your comment, and enjoy your retirement remembering there is a period of adjustment.........it took me 5 minutes!
I have a Mitutoyo straight vernier with the fine adjustment (locks on fine and course, no dials, no batteries, nothing to mess one around) and have trusted it for 51 years. Worth every penny I spent on it, and that's saying a lot because it cost me more than two weeks apprentice wages at the time
I also have a really nice straight vernier that I've had since I was in my early 20s. Unfortunately my eyes are no longer good enough to read it without considerable difficulty. Now I use digital calipers because I can read them easily.
@@lwilton Same here. Another thing that I was surprised was not mentioned is the data transmission capability. Fair enough, not many have a CNC machine, but with the availability of 3D printers increasing as it has, it can be a big time saver.
I'm surprised at how many comments here complain about digital and batteries. Mitutoyo makes solar calipers (the cheap copies suck). If you are worried about low light and the specs sound not good enough, it is actually way better than the specs. They are basically the same as a solar calculator in terms of the required level of light, which is to say, really good.
I have a plastic dial caliper that I have used for years but I finally bought a steel dial and a steel digital caliper. One thing I figured out with the plastic caliper was that I could put it on a piece of wood and while holding the turning button in place, slide the piece of wood through the jaws and I could tell if it loosened or tightened end to end. That way I knew if it was a consistent thickness from one end to the other. I figured out how accurate this method was when after buying the digital, I took it and measured the thickness of three small pieces of wood that I sanded to size for a pair of marking gauges I was (still am) building and the combined thicknesses of all three pieces was within a half thousand. It’s surprising the ways we figure out how to use tools to make them more accurate. P.S., the depth gauge of the plastic dial caliper is a straight piece of wire instead of a flat bar and fits into much smaller holes. For that reason I will never get rid of it. The only thing I can’t do is scribe with it.
Digital are also great for measuring bolt hole distances, by measuring a hole,set zero and then measure two holes,instant hole distance. Also great for working metric on an Imp lathe, or vice versa, by say setting in metric the size you want,press zero then imp/mm button and measure the part in Imp and you know how much to take to get the metric dimension.
I have tools and machinery from new to over 100 years old . Back and forth between metric and imperial, it's the digital every time. If you want to drill a hole that's not dead on the numbers in metric, then run the vernier over your letter and number drills you may find what you want. Calculate metric to imperial , dial it in press the button , you didn't even have to get thumb prints on your Zeuss book.
The biggest problem I've had with calipers of that sort is the jaws flexing. The good Brown and Sharpe/Etalons have somewhat less trouble with this, but the only ones that I have seen that really get around it are true vernier calipers, specifically the Starrett master ones. They cost an arm and a leg, maybe an arm and two legs and a ear, if you buy them new, but you can get them on eBay for a song and a dance. They're really a joy to use, though. Oh, and they also do both inch & metric 😁
Most of them have 2 screws at the top you can tighten with fine screwdriver.most vernier callipers have a thin copper strip that wears out with time-it acts a s a gib ,so you can tighten it,
With the digital you can also calculate! For example 10,224mm plus 13.983mm - go to 10,224mm, zero it, then go to 13,983mm (to the right side), zero it and then close the calipers and you have the result! For subtraction go left!
And that's why 99% of the time, I use my 30 year old analogue (no dial) calipers. I'm used to it enough to read down to 0.01-0.05mm if I can be arsed to, just takes a tad longer. But most measurements I do only need 0.05. And I'm 'only' 43, I got those calipers for workshop hours when I was 12.
One other feature digital is the Data/Hold button... if you can't read the display because of position. Get the jaws set with the friction wheel and press the Data/Hold and you can open the calipers without losing the reading. Record reading, press Data/Hold again and goes back to measuring.
With 376 comments already posted, someone has probably posted this one. Another thing the digital can do is the center to center of 2 holes of the same ID. Use the internal measuring function to measure the internal diameter of one of the holes and zero the reading. Then use the same internal function to measure between the far sides of the holes. You get the centerline distance. No calculation needed.
Nobel prize for you mate ! My blood pressure has just dropped 10 points. Mind you, the dial's battery never goes flat just when you need it (and don't have a spare handy)
The same method can be used to measure pin spacing, particularly in electronics. Measure the diameter of one pin, zero on that. Measure the outside of one pin to the outside of the next pin (or 10 pins and divide by 10).
I like the other benefit of the digital caliper. Two holes same size: measure the diameter of one of the holes and zero. Then measure either outside-outside and you have the center to center distance of the holes.
Two holes different size: Use two bearing balls the same size, larger than both holes. Set them into the holes and zero on the ball diameter, then measure over the balls.
I use digital, dial, and even the old-school verniers at times, just depends on the situation. I have way more faith in my old Starrett dial caliper than my import digital caliper, but will admit to liking the digital for laziness. Thanks for sharing.
Other than for nostalgia, in what situation would you use an old-school vernier over both dial and digital? I can't think of a single case where a vernier would be better. Unless you doing something where it's likely to get damaged...
@@steveh8724 Admittedly, often the good quality old school vernier one comes out for fun's sake, but it's also partly to keep in practice for using my height gauges, both of which are in vernier scale (old B&S & Starrett). I do however use a cheaper plastic vernier daily at work for close fractional measurements as it is graduated in mm and fractional inches to 1/128". I just love the simplistic elegance of the Vernier scale once one can read it correctly.
I've read a lot of the comments here because I'm bored and find this subject entertaining to say the least. I can't help but laugh when someone says things like digital calipers are not as accurate as dials or the batteries don't last or digital give false readings, jump and so on. I don't know what make or brand they are buying, but in the 30+ years I've been buying digital measuring instruments I've never seen any of these things to be true. Even 30 years ago when they first came on the scene they did a pretty decent job. Calipers in general are not meant to be a high precision instrument. +/- .0005 is about all would expect for a tool like that. For closer work, use an instrument made to measure closer work. As for batteries, the coolant proof Mitutoyo I use has only gone through 3 in 5+ years and I use it daily. And the batteries are cheap.
You should get both because you will run in a situation where you are out of batteries but you really need to measure something right that moment. Especially since you have to essentially buy a dial once for your lifetime.
I've had the same Brown & Sharp calipers since 1989. Take care of them and keep them clean and they will last a long time. I have a Starrett digital I bought 15 years ago for the ability to measure in metric.
I've tested (and calibrated) a lot of digital calipers over the years and found that you get what you pay for. I prefer dials, for accuracy, but the Mitutoyo is pretty much spot on for accuracy, the others I have owned vary, but some are rubbish.
Some of the cheapies don't have automatic shut-off, in case you would accidentally leave it turned on. I do agree that you can't go wrong with a Starritt or Mitutoyo. My old fashion non dial vernier caliper never runs down, but my eyes do!
Thank you Joe. I did not know about the step for height. The first thing I did after watching this video is went and tried it with my calipers. Thanks again.
My dial caliper reads both imperial and metric at the same time. Two concentric needles (like a clock movement) and two scales. It's a surprisingly well made Chinese no-name, mail ordered it some 30 years ago, was around $25 at the time. Dial calipers can also be reset to zero for comparing, although you have be careful if you're range of variability is greater than .050". I've owned electronic calipers, they're amazing, but considering the battery (your new spares will die at the same rate as the one in use) I say the edge goes to dials. Don't dismiss verniers either, they're good to .001" (with my glasses on) and rugged enough to leave around my cluttered garage uncased.
One avantage of digital is that your face doesnt have to be pararell while reading it.... If a short part is still in the lathe chuck ,puting your face just above lathe rail many times could be boring. Digital from Chinese or India faster comsumes battery than Muttituto.
@@Spark-Hole I hear ya, though inaccurate would be a better argument than boring. Even so, of the many dial calipers I've used all had their pointers so close to their dial faces that there was never any appreciable perspective error. If you're ever concerned, you can still lock the dial in place while measuring and read it in a more comfortable position. For me, I still prefer no battery ever :)
use the zero function all the time at work. even on the 1200mm. I work in an extrusion company and make plastic pipes and the function is really handy when we measure the ovality get the smallest diameter the zero the caliper en get the highest number. I think I use the zero button more then the on/off :)
Joe, a couple of things, knowing the overall length of the caliper is helpful for larger measurements. My brown and sharps are 8.916 long, if I need to measure let's say 12 inch milled internal feature, place the caliper inside the feature open the caliper to where the front edge is square open the caliper to where the depth rod touches the other feature, if your reading is 3.084 you are 12 inches (8.916+3.084). I scribe this dimension on my caliper for reference. (I was never taught to do this, just had an ahah moment when I was an apprentice, no one has heard of or used this technique, 12" get me over 25") after tears of doing this I'm very confident in it's accuracy. I use my dials for counting, measure and move my calipers to desired dim. counting the thousands I need to adjust the machine. I'm going to switch to digitals, most of the steel at my shop is mildly magnetic and I keep getting fine chips stuck in the rack. Thanks Joe! Senior
Great video Joe, the dial type was never popular here in the UK, I can only assume due to the dial glass getting damaged more easily. That model of Mitutoyo is from the 90's, looks perfect, a credit to your care of your tools and instruments. Thanks for sharing.
Plus your Mitutoyo digital has a data port that can be linked to a computer or other device for data collection (if you need to document accuracy of a job batch).
My toolbox, with non-digital mikes and calipers, went to a young fella who was just starting out in the business a long time ago. Recently I needed some accurate measurements for a project so I bought a Mitutoyo digital and there's one advantage you didn't mention - the digital readout is lot easier for old eyes. :-)
@@joepie221 not forever. It just seems like it. It's really about 3.5 years. But it's long enough I forget how to rezero them. I think press down the origin button for 2 seconds? But don't quote me on that.
Another nice video Joe. I never thought to use the head as a height gage. Nice tip. I've been using one of my digital calipers as a comparator like device for hand reloading work. Thanks Joe!
A shop I worked at required you get your measuring tools calibrated once a year, but they paid for it. You would be surprised how many tools out were out of calibration after they get dropped a few times..
Great video, thank you! I have both, use them everyday but tend to always grab the digital. My older dial typed can easily get knocked out of zero by a chip in the rack n pinion. Like you say, always confirm zero.
I've got some (brown and sharp, I think) digital calipers that have a three readout options, metric, inch, and fractional inch, it's sooo useful when measuring parts designed in the USA! I'm of an age that the UK educational system used fractional inches and millimeters, but not decimal inches, so while I can get by in sixteenths as decimals, 64th and 128th's take some time to calculate, unless I use the calipers👍
Hello Joe from John Australia. I enjoyed this video and will respond and give my thoughts as you have said/asked. I prefer to use Vernier Calipers as for me at all of 60 I find them the most reliable. Reason you may ask, it is because they do not have two things an electronic caliper has and they are a Battery and a so called BRAIN. Dial type calipers can also have a tiny ingress of Swarf/Dust introduced into the track and pinion and skip a tooth. I know I have seen this and result too big or too small as the job may be. I only use these as Guestimaters! Same with my chosen type of Caliper, Mititoyo, and they read metric and inch, they get me close to size and do not have battery/chip (as in electronic) failure as well as do not have the ability to skip a tooth! I have tried them all and I will say Vernier is for me for the reasons said above. Cheers Mate.
Nice demo. I use digital, dial, and vernier. All have strengths and weaknesses. For general measurement, I prefer the vernier- nothing to go wrong, quick read to within 0.010" or 0.1mm, and accurate to 0.001"/0.02mm if I need. Dial for basic comparative. Digital for when I need to zero for difference (part comparison, hole centers, and so on). I do not prefer digital as a general purpose tool, as they hide too much, and I have been burned by a rezero at the wrong spot. Then again, I am old and grew up with vernier scales, and was introduced to digital with lower quality devices.
I have and still use a Sears Craftsman vernier caliper I have had for 32 years. Small adjustments along the way to keep it accurate. Used it for setting up and running a wood molder.
Digital also doesn’t have a gear rack to pick up debris and cause the teeth to skip. That said, I much prefer reading an analog dial and always reach for those first. Much better ‘feel’ if that makes sense.
@@37yearsofanythingisenough39 yes the shim stock puts your dial back on 0 in the right spot if you do it a few times with the shim stock between the rack and gear and you slide the rack back or forth with the shim stock in between them
you can also zero it on a hole diameter in a part, and measure hole centers, handy if you are trying to work out hole centers and the hole diameters are oddly sized e.g 7.3mm or 8.7mm etc
One of the more common uses for zeroing calipers at our shop is checking depth of threads. Zero your calipers on a bolt, screw the bolt in till it stops, check the height of the bolt sticking out, et voila that is the functional depth of of the threaded hole.
Joe: One thing that I really like about the dial cal...is when in doing lathe work...I can see the dial and look at the "distance" to see how much is going to have to be removed to get to my size. Basically working in quadrants on the dial when I'm down to less than .100"....then come the Mic....now the "battery" guy...I use all the time when checking parts...since many drawings are in metric and imperial annotations.......yes, there are several brands of calipers that are .200" per rev....hate them....my eyes are not getting any better....1 rev....only way to go....and large button calculators...Good segment. Thanks Joe!
Joe, one disadvantage in my experience with dial calipers.. Keeping the track clean is very important, all it takes is a chip getting caught in the gears to really screw them up. That's what led me to switch to digital. Granted, with digital you have to be cautious around coolant or other liquids.
I ended up with an imperial lathe through a supplier mistake, now I have a metric mill and an old pantograph engraving machine with amazing mechanical dual reading dials! With all this the digital wins for swapping and quick conversions between the systems. I now think in both, which is good.
Thanks, Joe, for a great video. Batteries...they can be problematic. If you use a caliper infrequently, as I do, the dial is the way to go. If you use the caliper daily, then, two things, change your batteries on a schedule, and have a dial as a backup. They aren’t all that expensive. My 2 cents...
I like to use the digitals for tapped hole depths using the 'ABS' or zero button to check the thread depth then double check with a dial. I always like having both just to double check sometimes
I have all three, but gravitate toward the dial caliper because of its analog readout. Like any analog gauge, it’s easier to sense big vs. tiny movements. But the inch/mm feature of my Mitutoyo, combined with that “center to center distance between pins” trick make it indispensable.
I have a set of German Mauser made Scherr Tumico 1326 dial calipers I bought back in the 60's. They are unusual in that the dial has two hands like a clock, one for thousandts (with 0.200" per rotation) and one for hundreds of thousandts. The entire measurement is read off the dial without having to look at the beam. They cost a mint back in the day and are the only set like that I've ever seen.
@@joepie221 I have many Schreur tumico tools. I live just an hour from where they were made and had a friend on the board. Got some good pricing and love the tools😊.
You can zero a dial caliper for GNG too, with the set screw on the dial. A dial caliper doesn't need batteries, which trumps the metric conversion IMHO. The advantage is null. That said, I still prefer my Mititoyo digital to my Starrette dial calipers for everyday use.
One thing to note also, the digital calipers are less susceptible to dirt and debris unlike the dial where you can have grit sneak it’s way into the gearing.
All good points Joe - must say, being old school (just old!) I still use my oldest vernier which is totally analogue. The old system like a slide rule. However, do have also a dial and digital... each with useful properties.
I have 6 sets of calipers, 1 of which is a 12" Mitutoyo digital. Of my dials, I have 1 shars (24"), 2 Mitutoyo (12" & 200mm) and 2 harbour freight specials (6" & 12"). The harbour freight ones are about 10 years old and left over from my time running water-jet and are rarely used now. Never was too keen about using top quality calipers in the highly abrasive environment of water-jet. Pretty much the only time I use the digitals is for inspection. The dial calipers are plenty good for spot checks and production runs.
I use my digitial just as you explained. Works great to quickly pick up centers of two holes spaced apart of equal diameters. Never knew about the step as a hight guage, thanks again.
I like how you identified your caliper on the back. Is that painted or etched? The end result is much neater than an electric engraver point and surely won't harm the caliper as a letter stamp would.
I still grab actual verniers for a lot of quick measurements, and even have inch/metric combo scales, but it's hard to beat good digitals for their ability to quickly zero on any measurement needed.
i have a dial vernier that has both imperial and metric but the last you pointed out is the one major advantage I see of the digital. In saying that though I would also not like to be caught out in a remote place with only a digital to do the job if the battery were to run out while out there. Would rather have to do the math
Dial calipers were the stage between vernier and digital. Digital also have the huge advantage that by just pressing one button you can switch between mm and inches and thus easier to mass produce. If a company can't afford to have a few batteries in the refrigrator then they must be near going broke.. Temperature also has influence in how long a battery lasts!
I have 12” Mitutoyo dial, 6” Mitutoyo digital, and a set of Mitutoyo Diamond Verniers. I bought the verniers in 1970. Still the goto set. Never a dead battery. Never slips a cog. The Diamond Verniers use .050” rather than .025. Easier to read. The digital are easiest to read, but are delicate.
My go to caliper is a digital one. Like to use the metric to imperial conversion, and ability to zero it out anywhere. The thing I do not like is it is very sensitive to getting wet. It affects the measurement greatly, and the display starts to fade out. And sometimes it is hard to read at certain angles when checking parts on the lathe. But it is plenty close enough for most tolerances I work too. Glad to learn of the step height gage part. Never knew that.
Dear Joe, I have a vernier caliper (metric and imperial), a dial caliper (imperial only) and two digital calipers. i mostly use the verniers probably form habit as I had them first. Both the digital caliper have a very useful feature which does not seem to be on the pair that you have. In imperial they offer the option of both fractional imperial and decimal imperial. This can be very useful for checking an unknown item in order to ascertain if one is looking at an imperial or decimal part an if so if it is a fractional size. Maybe not so much for a seasoned hand like you though as you will know most of the decimal / fractional imperial conversions by heart from long usage but for the amateur lime myself a real boon on occasion.
Another important feature of some digitals: solar powered. This gets rid of the biggest disadvantage of digitals: the battery, which is always dead, or it puked in the caliper, ruining it, or the battery is dead and who can find the @#$ crazy type it uses? The solar ones have "absolute scale" which means that when you put it in a dark drawer, move it, then retrieve it for use, it retains the last "zero reference" you set, unlike digital incremental readouts which forget where they are on power loss.
Good job Joe ! the only tip I was not aware of was using it as a height gauge! pretty cool!! I had no idea LOL Thanks for all your time my friend and as always TWO THUMBS UP Sir!
Hey, I did learn something new! I have always used the end beam to measure height, now I'm gonna start using the other end as a height gauge. Thanks Joe.
Technically a true vernier caliper has an additional scale that allows measurement down to one thou. It’s the way they could get accuracy before the development of the dial types.
As a new to the trade machinist, here's my experience. The first calipers I purchased were igaging 8" digitals. This was while in my machining school and for the versatility, convenience, and cost. They were and have been great. However, after hiring on at Kurt manufacturing as a cnc machinist... I had a single drop of coolant fall from the lathe directly onto my calipers rendering them useless. AKA not coolant proof! I immediately purchased a 6" dial, brown and sharp (just like yours), because of the reliability. As a new machinist I would suggest a set that is dial and earn your way up to a digital set that has an IP rating for use in the CNC machines.
Hi Joe thanks for the talk regarding dial and digital gauges. Didn't realize that there was a height gauge facility on the back of the jaws. We live and learn eh
Joe, nice video but you missed the data/hold button and how it works when you buy the external cable to attach it to a PC. The caliper can push the measurement into the PC using Excel and possibly other software.
Incremental mode sets a temporary zero just like a dro. Very handy when your turning to metric sizes on an imperial lathe. Just set it on finished dimension zero and flip it into imperial mode.
Before dial calipers were common, Vernier calipers offered precision to machinists worldwide -- though they require familiarity with the Vernier scaling algorithm. I think "very near caliper" is wordplay alluding to this earlier device and practice. Also, the dial scale can be loosened and rotated to "zero" it to a standard length as well. In the case of the dial caliper, this is mostly useful only to +/- 0.050" or so. You can also use the digital calipers to compute the material to be removed. First, calibrate them at zero. Second, set the desired dimension by sliding the mobile jaw. Third, zero the display while the desired dimension is set. Fourth, measure the material's present dimension relative to the new zero; the new reading is the material to remove (ignore the negative sign).
one cool feature of digital calipers that I don't see a lot of people taking advantage of is if you want to know the distance between two holes of the same diameter you can zero the ID jaws of your caliper in one of the holes and then span across both holes and it will give you the center to center distance
Of course! Genius! I’ll have to remember that haha
Thanks, Joe! Another great trick when using the zero function on a digital caliper is using it to determine the distance between the center of 2 matching holes. For example, let's say you take a scrap block of aluminum and drill a pair of parallel 0.250 inch holes through it. To determine the distance between centers, you measure the Inside Diameter of one of the holes, and Zero the caliper at that measurement. You can the measure the inside diameter ACROSS both holes (from the left side of the left hole, to the right side of the right hole), and the zeroes caliper will read the distance between the Center of each hole.
If on the other hand, you are faced with 2 studs, bolts, or pins, you can apply the same technique to measure the Outside of the pins, and the caliper will give you the same measurement.
Note that the holes must be the same diameter for this to work. I'd the diameters are different, you need to add both diameters and decide by 2, and zero your caliper at that length first.
You just made my life a little simpler...
@@drickard67 Maybe we can get Joe to do a quick video on it.
One really handy feature with the digital you missed that I use all the time; Measuring the distance between two holes, or two pins, etc., as long as the two have the same diameter. Measure one of the holes with the inside (or the pin with the outside) and set your zero to that. Now measure over the pins outside (or the holes inside) and you get the distance between. In effect you are subtracting twice the radius of the feature to get the center to center distance. I also use it occasionally for calculating dovetails to get the distance between pin centers. Also may work for thread wires to get the P.D., but I haven't tried it yet. It's nice to have a settable reference whenever you need it.
Yes, that ranks up there close to number one advantage for me.
You beat me tuit! 🤣
You can do that with the dial, just rotate the diAl to set the zero.
Another added benefit of the digital is, measuring center to center spacing on hole pairs. Set up the caliper to measure one of the IDs with the upper jaws, then Zero it out. Stick one upper jaw in one hole and the other jaw in the other hole. The reading will be center to center on the holes. Obviously it only works if the 2 holes are the same diameter.
I was in a bearing supplier recently; they used dial calipers and vernier calipers to check sizes. The customer next to me asked "Why no digital calipers?" The answers:
** "Guys didn't always check they were "Zeroed."
** "Batteries did not last as long as advertised."
** "It was always the digital ones that get stolen off the counter... nobody wants to steal the others."
The two reason you mentioned (especially the ability to zero on a standard) are EXACTLY why I prefer my digital over a dial.
As a PRS shooter / reloader, I use the "zero on standard" function all the till for checking cartridge cases and ogive lengths on my loaded rounds.
I don't do PRS but I did go to digital for my reloading calipers for that very reason...
a verynear (lol) dial caliper can also be set to a zero anywhere along the scale by rotating the dial to do overs and unders. Just the other day I was in the shop and neither one of my digitals would work. One of the HF $9 dial calipers I leave laying around the shop did the quick measurement I needed. Thanks for the videos you do Joe. I've learned a lot from them.
Love my digital which also measures in fractional parts of an inch. Also good for converting between fractional and decimal.
The only advantage of my dial caliper is, the batteries never go dead. :-)
Thanks Mr. P. I learn something new every time I watch your videos. It’s like having my own personal shop teacher in my pocket.
Also easy to check distance between same sized holes by zeroing at the diameter of the hole and then measuring outside to outside of the holes.
Yes , do that a lot.
I use the digital at the lathe, set the desired diameter on the read out and hit zero, take a measurement it shows how much more to turn off.
I did not know you could use the step for height gauge. I just got a job a couple months ago at a injection mold machine shop. After about a year of UA-cam education. So I'm really learning fast now. Thanks a lot Joe for all the help!
Keep studying and ask questions. any oldtimer will tell you that you never stop learning.
I ask a million questions all day every day. I doubt if anyone could learn everything there is to know in one lifetime.
@@alexbarnett8541 it would be impossible to learn everything in a lifetime. All that we can shoot for is to do are job the best that we possibly can.
Hi Joe, not sure if anybody has commented as there are 576+ comments, but you can also find the centerline distance of two holes by measuring the ID of one hole, and zero the reading. Then measure the outside radius of the two holes and the reading will be the centerline of both holes. Of course it only works if the holes are the same diameter +or- a couple of tho’s……….. as always, thanks for all your wonderful and educational videos!!!!
The day you stop learning, is the day you stop living. Keep the videos coming Joe!
Some other good and bad things:
Digital
+ Hold button - make a measurement where you can reach but not see directly.
+ Data logging - Record the value automatically.
- Accuracy - besides the accuracy of the tool itself you have to add the value of the least significant number the display can show! (Taught to me by an Mitutoyo specialist, wit an analog we can say if the value is above or below the indicated, not with a digital.)
Vernier / Dial
+ Works without batteries!
- Risk of parallax error
another advantage of the digital caliper is that there is no rack gear to pick up small chips and then break off a tooth on the dial. That said, i still prefer the dial calipers for a number of reasons; (1) the "analog" movement of the pointer on the dial gives a steadier reading (not flickering). (2) the older dial calipers are structurally sturdier, and (3)the digital readout to the 0.0005" - half thousandths gives a false sense of accuracy. In an experienced machinist's hands I trust it to +/- 0.001" at best, but in an inexperienced user's hands even though the readout is to the 1/2 thou., the flimsiness of the digital caliper's structure will be at best +/- .005" IMO.
For those that have battery issues with the digital calipers, Try cleaning the contacts with a #2 pencil eraser. I did this several years back and it seemed to have stopped the problem. We used to clean our comm gear this way in the service.
I’m so old school, I never thought of the zero offset technique on the digital calipers.
Thanks,
John
Just one comment when your done for the day and you put your dial or digatial calipers away try to leave a few thousand gap between the measuring anvils weather dial calipers or micrometer to keep rust from forming when they are closed tight.
Just a thought from a machinists since 1971 till retirement 9-30-19.
Keep the videos rolling I'm always looking for new way to do things.
They say you can always teach an old dog new tricks,lol
Beachbum I believe the reason you never leave a measuring instrument fully closed (assuming it is capable of a zero measurement) is to prevent temperature change from putting undue stress over time on the frame. Since most faces are stainless or carbide it is unlikely oxidation would take place. Very few young machinists are taught this any more, so I applaud your comment, and enjoy your retirement remembering there is a period of adjustment.........it took me 5 minutes!
I have a Mitutoyo straight vernier with the fine adjustment (locks on fine and course, no dials, no batteries, nothing to mess one around) and have trusted it for 51 years. Worth every penny I spent on it, and that's saying a lot because it cost me more than two weeks apprentice wages at the time
I also have a really nice straight vernier that I've had since I was in my early 20s. Unfortunately my eyes are no longer good enough to read it without considerable difficulty. Now I use digital calipers because I can read them easily.
@@lwilton Same here. Another thing that I was surprised was not mentioned is the data transmission capability. Fair enough, not many have a CNC machine, but with the availability of 3D printers increasing as it has, it can be a big time saver.
I'm surprised at how many comments here complain about digital and batteries. Mitutoyo makes solar calipers (the cheap copies suck). If you are worried about low light and the specs sound not good enough, it is actually way better than the specs. They are basically the same as a solar calculator in terms of the required level of light, which is to say, really good.
I have multiples of both (of course🤪), good video... you forgot one benefit of the “very near”...NO dead battery...lol
I have a plastic dial caliper that I have used for years but I finally bought a steel dial and a steel digital caliper. One thing I figured out with the plastic caliper was that I could put it on a piece of wood and while holding the turning button in place, slide the piece of wood through the jaws and I could tell if it loosened or tightened end to end. That way I knew if it was a consistent thickness from one end to the other. I figured out how accurate this method was when after buying the digital, I took it and measured the thickness of three small pieces of wood that I sanded to size for a pair of marking gauges I was (still am) building and the combined thicknesses of all three pieces was within a half thousand. It’s surprising the ways we figure out how to use tools to make them more accurate.
P.S., the depth gauge of the plastic dial caliper is a straight piece of wire instead of a flat bar and fits into much smaller holes. For that reason I will never get rid of it. The only thing I can’t do is scribe with it.
I’ve zeroed the dial on my dial calipers to achieve the same over/under feature as the digitals. Although not as convenient, but it works.
Digital are also great for measuring bolt hole distances, by measuring a hole,set zero and then measure two holes,instant hole distance.
Also great for working metric on an Imp lathe, or vice versa, by say setting in metric the size you want,press zero then imp/mm button and measure the part in Imp and you know how much to take to get the metric dimension.
I have tools and machinery from new to over 100 years old . Back and forth between metric and imperial, it's the digital every time. If you want to drill a hole that's not dead on the numbers in metric, then run the vernier over your letter and number drills you may find what you want. Calculate metric to imperial , dial it in press the button , you didn't even have to get thumb prints on your Zeuss book.
The biggest problem I've had with calipers of that sort is the jaws flexing. The good Brown and Sharpe/Etalons have somewhat less trouble with this, but the only ones that I have seen that really get around it are true vernier calipers, specifically the Starrett master ones.
They cost an arm and a leg, maybe an arm and two legs and a ear, if you buy them new, but you can get them on eBay for a song and a dance. They're really a joy to use, though. Oh, and they also do both inch & metric 😁
Most of them have 2 screws at the top you can tighten with fine screwdriver.most vernier callipers have a thin copper strip that wears out with time-it acts a s a gib ,so you can tighten it,
With the digital you can also calculate!
For example 10,224mm plus 13.983mm - go to 10,224mm, zero it, then go to 13,983mm (to the right side), zero it and then close the calipers and you have the result! For subtraction go left!
I also prefer the digital. But one rather big advantage the mechanical has: There is no battery.
But you can buy with solar cell. :-)
Nevazno Zabil There is no sun in my basement...
@@wewillmakeit3615 60 lux is enough for Mitutoyo. This is pretty dark.
@@nevaznozabil I've been in shops where lighting was around 20 lux except in the immediate vicinity of the machines.
And that's why 99% of the time, I use my 30 year old analogue (no dial) calipers. I'm used to it enough to read down to 0.01-0.05mm if I can be arsed to, just takes a tad longer.
But most measurements I do only need 0.05.
And I'm 'only' 43, I got those calipers for workshop hours when I was 12.
Mitutoyo is definitely worth the investment! Extremely happy with mine.
One other feature digital is the Data/Hold button... if you can't read the display because of position. Get the jaws set with the friction wheel and press the Data/Hold and you can open the calipers without losing the reading. Record reading, press Data/Hold again and goes back to measuring.
With 376 comments already posted, someone has probably posted this one. Another thing the digital can do is the center to center of 2 holes of the same ID. Use the internal measuring function to measure the internal diameter of one of the holes and zero the reading. Then use the same internal function to measure between the far sides of the holes. You get the centerline distance. No calculation needed.
Nobel prize for you mate !
My blood pressure has just dropped 10 points.
Mind you, the dial's battery never goes flat just when you need it (and don't have a spare handy)
The same method can be used to measure pin spacing, particularly in electronics. Measure the diameter of one pin, zero on that. Measure the outside of one pin to the outside of the next pin (or 10 pins and divide by 10).
Magic - I never realised the height gauge feature, I've only been a 'hobby machinist' for 4 years - must be a slow learner!!
Thanks Joe.
I like the other benefit of the digital caliper. Two holes same size: measure the diameter of one of the holes and zero. Then measure either outside-outside and you have the center to center distance of the holes.
Two holes different size: Use two bearing balls the same size, larger than both holes. Set them into the holes and zero on the ball diameter, then measure over the balls.
I use digital, dial, and even the old-school verniers at times, just depends on the situation. I have way more faith in my old Starrett dial caliper than my import digital caliper, but will admit to liking the digital for laziness. Thanks for sharing.
Other than for nostalgia, in what situation would you use an old-school vernier over both dial and digital? I can't think of a single case where a vernier would be better. Unless you doing something where it's likely to get damaged...
@@steveh8724 Admittedly, often the good quality old school vernier one comes out for fun's sake, but it's also partly to keep in practice for using my height gauges, both of which are in vernier scale (old B&S & Starrett). I do however use a cheaper plastic vernier daily at work for close fractional measurements as it is graduated in mm and fractional inches to 1/128". I just love the simplistic elegance of the Vernier scale once one can read it correctly.
I've read a lot of the comments here because I'm bored and find this subject entertaining to say the least. I can't help but laugh when someone says things like digital calipers are not as accurate as dials or the batteries don't last or digital give false readings, jump and so on. I don't know what make or brand they are buying, but in the 30+ years I've been buying digital measuring instruments I've never seen any of these things to be true. Even 30 years ago when they first came on the scene they did a pretty decent job. Calipers in general are not meant to be a high precision instrument. +/- .0005 is about all would expect for a tool like that. For closer work, use an instrument made to measure closer work. As for batteries, the coolant proof Mitutoyo I use has only gone through 3 in 5+ years and I use it daily. And the batteries are cheap.
But if coolant gets in them they can mess up. Mitutoyo are good but even them mess up. I've used them for years as well.
You should get both because you will run in a situation where you are out of batteries but you really need to measure something right that moment. Especially since you have to essentially buy a dial once for your lifetime.
I've had the same Brown & Sharp calipers since 1989. Take care of them and keep them clean and they will last a long time. I have a Starrett digital I bought 15 years ago for the ability to measure in metric.
As an old Brown & Sharp employee, I'm glad to hear it.
I've tested (and calibrated) a lot of digital calipers over the years and found that you get what you pay for. I prefer dials, for accuracy, but the Mitutoyo is pretty much spot on for accuracy, the others I have owned vary, but some are rubbish.
Some of the cheapies don't have automatic shut-off, in case you would accidentally leave it turned on. I do agree that you can't go wrong with a Starritt or Mitutoyo. My old fashion non dial vernier caliper never runs down, but my eyes do!
Thank you Joe. I did not know about the step for height. The first thing I did after watching this video is went and tried it with my calipers. Thanks again.
My dial caliper reads both imperial and metric at the same time. Two concentric needles (like a clock movement) and two scales. It's a surprisingly well made Chinese no-name, mail ordered it some 30 years ago, was around $25 at the time. Dial calipers can also be reset to zero for comparing, although you have be careful if you're range of variability is greater than .050". I've owned electronic calipers, they're amazing, but considering the battery (your new spares will die at the same rate as the one in use) I say the edge goes to dials. Don't dismiss verniers either, they're good to .001" (with my glasses on) and rugged enough to leave around my cluttered garage uncased.
One avantage of digital is that your face doesnt have to be pararell while reading it.... If a short part is still in the lathe chuck ,puting your face just above lathe rail many times could be boring.
Digital from Chinese or India faster comsumes battery than Muttituto.
@@Spark-Hole I hear ya, though inaccurate would be a better argument than boring. Even so, of the many dial calipers I've used all had their pointers so close to their dial faces that there was never any appreciable perspective error. If you're ever concerned, you can still lock the dial in place while measuring and read it in a more comfortable position. For me, I still prefer no battery ever :)
use the zero function all the time at work. even on the 1200mm. I work in an extrusion company and make plastic pipes and the function is really handy when we measure the ovality get the smallest diameter the zero the caliper en get the highest number. I think I use the zero button more then the on/off :)
If you zero the dial on the part, you can see variance within 0.100 easily and more if you count the ticks. Slightly slower, but still works.
Joe, a couple of things, knowing the overall length of the caliper is helpful for larger measurements. My brown and sharps are 8.916 long, if I need to measure let's say 12 inch milled internal feature, place the caliper inside the feature open the caliper to where the front edge is square open the caliper to where the depth rod touches the other feature, if your reading is 3.084 you are 12 inches (8.916+3.084). I scribe this dimension on my caliper for reference. (I was never taught to do this, just had an ahah moment when I was an apprentice, no one has heard of or used this technique, 12" get me over 25") after tears of doing this I'm very confident in it's accuracy. I use my dials for counting, measure and move my calipers to desired dim. counting the thousands I need to adjust the machine. I'm going to switch to digitals, most of the steel at my shop is mildly magnetic and I keep getting fine chips stuck in the rack. Thanks Joe!
Senior
Great video Joe, the dial type was never popular here in the UK, I can only assume due to the dial glass getting damaged more easily. That model of Mitutoyo is from the 90's, looks perfect, a credit to your care of your tools and instruments. Thanks for sharing.
Plus your Mitutoyo digital has a data port that can be linked to a computer or other device for data collection (if you need to document accuracy of a job batch).
think mine must be broken, they dont whistle when I measure ID?
My toolbox, with non-digital mikes and calipers, went to a young fella who was just starting out in the business a long time ago. Recently I needed some accurate measurements for a project so I bought a Mitutoyo digital and there's one advantage you didn't mention - the digital readout is lot easier for old eyes. :-)
I love mine. The batteries on these units last forever.
@@joepie221 not forever. It just seems like it. It's really about 3.5 years. But it's long enough I forget how to rezero them. I think press down the origin button for 2 seconds? But don't quote me on that.
Im self taught and always learn from your videos. Somthing I took for granted was my caliper lol. Now I know better. Thanks for sharing!
Pros and cons to everything. I own both. Personally I love my dials. Brown & Sharp smoothest caliper ever made.
Another nice video Joe. I never thought to use the head as a height gage. Nice tip. I've been using one of my digital calipers as a comparator like device for hand reloading work. Thanks Joe!
A shop I worked at required you get your measuring tools calibrated once a year, but they paid for it. You would be surprised how many tools out were out of calibration after they get dropped a few times..
Great video, thank you! I have both, use them everyday but tend to always grab the digital. My older dial typed can easily get knocked out of zero by a chip in the rack n pinion. Like you say, always confirm zero.
I've got some (brown and sharp, I think) digital calipers that have a three readout options, metric, inch, and fractional inch, it's sooo useful when measuring parts designed in the USA! I'm of an age that the UK educational system used fractional inches and millimeters, but not decimal inches, so while I can get by in sixteenths as decimals, 64th and 128th's take some time to calculate, unless I use the calipers👍
Hello Joe from John Australia. I enjoyed this video and will respond and give my thoughts as you have said/asked.
I prefer to use Vernier Calipers as for me at all of 60 I find them the most reliable. Reason you may ask, it is because they do not have two things an electronic caliper has and they are a Battery and a so called BRAIN. Dial type calipers can also have a tiny ingress of Swarf/Dust introduced into the track and pinion and skip a tooth. I know I have seen this and result too big or too small as the job may be. I only use these as Guestimaters!
Same with my chosen type of Caliper, Mititoyo, and they read metric and inch, they get me close to size and do not have battery/chip (as in electronic) failure as well as do not have the ability to skip a tooth!
I have tried them all and I will say Vernier is for me for the reasons said above.
Cheers Mate.
Nice demo. I use digital, dial, and vernier. All have strengths and weaknesses. For general measurement, I prefer the vernier- nothing to go wrong, quick read to within 0.010" or 0.1mm, and accurate to 0.001"/0.02mm if I need. Dial for basic comparative. Digital for when I need to zero for difference (part comparison, hole centers, and so on). I do not prefer digital as a general purpose tool, as they hide too much, and I have been burned by a rezero at the wrong spot. Then again, I am old and grew up with vernier scales, and was introduced to digital with lower quality devices.
height gauge holy crap. didnt get a minute in and already learned something.
It's inside, outside, depth and step.
I have and still use a Sears Craftsman vernier caliper I have had for 32 years.
Small adjustments along the way to keep it accurate.
Used it for setting up and running a wood molder.
Digital also doesn’t have a gear rack to pick up debris and cause the teeth to skip. That said, I much prefer reading an analog dial and always reach for those first. Much better ‘feel’ if that makes sense.
If you pick up debree in your rack calipers slide a piece of. 001 or .002 shim stock between your rack and gear to rezero you clipers back to 0
beachbums2008 You have been around awhile if you know this Beachbum!
@@37yearsofanythingisenough39 yes the shim stock puts your dial back on 0 in the right spot if you do it a few times with the shim stock between the rack and gear and you slide the rack back or forth with the shim stock in between them
you can also zero it on a hole diameter in a part, and measure hole centers, handy if you are trying to work out hole centers and the hole diameters are oddly sized e.g 7.3mm or 8.7mm etc
One of the more common uses for zeroing calipers at our shop is checking depth of threads. Zero your calipers on a bolt, screw the bolt in till it stops, check the height of the bolt sticking out, et voila that is the functional depth of of the threaded hole.
Joe:
One thing that I really like about the dial cal...is when in doing lathe work...I can see the dial and look at the "distance" to see how much is going to have to be removed to get to my size. Basically working in quadrants on the dial when I'm down to less than .100"....then come the Mic....now the "battery" guy...I use all the time when checking parts...since many drawings are in metric and imperial annotations.......yes, there are several brands of calipers that are .200" per rev....hate them....my eyes are not getting any better....1 rev....only way to go....and large button calculators...Good segment. Thanks Joe!
Joe, one disadvantage in my experience with dial calipers..
Keeping the track clean is very important, all it takes is a chip getting caught in the gears to really screw them up. That's what led me to switch to digital. Granted, with digital you have to be cautious around coolant or other liquids.
They make waterproof calipers now too.
I use a digital myself, but one disadvantage I found is that they are susceptible to error when cold. also if a small chip (
I knew that, but it's always good to have a refresher. Conversions are quicker too.
Never knew about the height gauge on that back step actually, thanks 😀.
I ended up with an imperial lathe through a supplier mistake, now I have a metric mill and an old pantograph engraving machine with amazing mechanical dual reading dials! With all this the digital wins for swapping and quick conversions between the systems. I now think in both, which is good.
Thanks for the tips, I didn't know that you can use the side for height measurement
Love watching your videos
Thanks, Joe, for a great video. Batteries...they can be problematic. If you use a caliper infrequently, as I do, the dial is the way to go. If you use the caliper daily, then, two things, change your batteries on a schedule, and have a dial as a backup. They aren’t all that expensive. My 2 cents...
I like to use the digitals for tapped hole depths using the 'ABS' or zero button to check the thread depth then double check with a dial. I always like having both just to double check sometimes
The digital also has the feature of data output to a computer or other digital device (my mitutoyo does at least).
I have all three, but gravitate toward the dial caliper because of its analog readout. Like any analog gauge, it’s easier to sense big vs. tiny movements. But the inch/mm feature of my Mitutoyo, combined with that “center to center distance between pins” trick make it indispensable.
I have a set of German Mauser made Scherr Tumico 1326 dial calipers I bought back in the 60's. They are unusual in that the dial has two hands like a clock, one for thousandts (with 0.200" per rotation) and one for hundreds of thousandts. The entire measurement is read off the dial without having to look at the beam. They cost a mint back in the day and are the only set like that I've ever seen.
I have a set of mic's from 1 to 6 made by Scherr Tumico. Bought them 40 years ago and they still read spot on.
@@joepie221 I have many Schreur tumico tools. I live just an hour from where they were made and had a friend on the board. Got some good pricing and love the tools😊.
You can zero a dial caliper for GNG too, with the set screw on the dial. A dial caliper doesn't need batteries, which trumps the metric conversion IMHO. The advantage is null. That said, I still prefer my Mititoyo digital to my Starrette dial calipers for everyday use.
And another good feature off the digital caliper is that you can measure easily from center to center off a hole ...
One thing to note also, the digital calipers are less susceptible to dirt and debris unlike the dial where you can have grit sneak it’s way into the gearing.
All good points Joe - must say, being old school (just old!) I still use my oldest vernier which is totally analogue. The old system like a slide rule. However, do have also a dial and digital... each with useful properties.
I have 6 sets of calipers, 1 of which is a 12" Mitutoyo digital. Of my dials, I have 1 shars (24"), 2 Mitutoyo (12" & 200mm) and 2 harbour freight specials (6" & 12"). The harbour freight ones are about 10 years old and left over from my time running water-jet and are rarely used now. Never was too keen about using top quality calipers in the highly abrasive environment of water-jet. Pretty much the only time I use the digitals is for inspection. The dial calipers are plenty good for spot checks and production runs.
I use my digitial just as you explained. Works great to quickly pick up centers of two holes spaced apart of equal diameters. Never knew about the step as a hight guage, thanks again.
I'd be lost without the metric conversion,so handy.
That's a really nice feature.
I like how you identified your caliper on the back. Is that painted or etched? The end result is much neater than an electric engraver point and surely won't harm the caliper as a letter stamp would.
I still grab actual verniers for a lot of quick measurements, and even have inch/metric combo scales, but it's hard to beat good digitals for their ability to quickly zero on any measurement needed.
i have a dial vernier that has both imperial and metric but the last you pointed out is the one major advantage I see of the digital. In saying that though I would also not like to be caught out in a remote place with only a digital to do the job if the battery were to run out while out there. Would rather have to do the math
Dial calipers were the stage between vernier and digital. Digital also have the huge advantage that by just pressing one button you can switch between mm and inches and thus easier to mass produce. If a company can't afford to have a few batteries in the refrigrator then they must be near going broke.. Temperature also has influence in how long a battery lasts!
I have 12” Mitutoyo dial, 6” Mitutoyo digital, and a set of Mitutoyo Diamond Verniers. I bought the verniers in 1970. Still the goto set. Never a dead battery. Never slips a cog. The Diamond Verniers use .050” rather than .025. Easier to read. The digital are easiest to read, but are delicate.
My go to caliper is a digital one. Like to use the metric to imperial conversion, and ability to zero it out anywhere.
The thing I do not like is it is very sensitive to getting wet. It affects the measurement greatly, and the display starts to fade out. And sometimes it is hard to read at certain angles when checking parts on the lathe.
But it is plenty close enough for most tolerances I work too. Glad to learn of the step height gage part. Never knew that.
Dear Joe, I have a vernier caliper (metric and imperial), a dial caliper (imperial only) and two digital calipers. i mostly use the verniers probably form habit as I had them first. Both the digital caliper have a very useful feature which does not seem to be on the pair that you have. In imperial they offer the option of both fractional imperial and decimal imperial. This can be very useful for checking an unknown item in order to ascertain if one is looking at an imperial or decimal part an if so if it is a fractional size. Maybe not so much for a seasoned hand like you though as you will know most of the decimal / fractional imperial conversions by heart from long usage but for the amateur lime myself a real boon on occasion.
Another important feature of some digitals: solar powered. This gets rid of the biggest disadvantage of digitals: the battery, which is always dead, or it puked in the caliper, ruining it, or the battery is dead and who can find the @#$ crazy type it uses? The solar ones have "absolute scale" which means that when you put it in a dark drawer, move it, then retrieve it for use, it retains the last "zero reference" you set, unlike digital incremental readouts which forget where they are on power loss.
Good job Joe ! the only tip I was not aware of was using it as a height gauge! pretty cool!! I had no idea LOL Thanks for all your time my friend and as always TWO THUMBS UP Sir!
Hey, I did learn something new! I have always used the end beam to measure height, now I'm gonna start using the other end as a height gauge. Thanks Joe.
Glad it was helpful!
Technically a true vernier caliper has an additional scale that allows measurement down to one thou. It’s the way they could get accuracy before the development of the dial types.
As a new to the trade machinist, here's my experience. The first calipers I purchased were igaging 8" digitals. This was while in my machining school and for the versatility, convenience, and cost. They were and have been great. However, after hiring on at Kurt manufacturing as a cnc machinist... I had a single drop of coolant fall from the lathe directly onto my calipers rendering them useless. AKA not coolant proof! I immediately purchased a 6" dial, brown and sharp (just like yours), because of the reliability. As a new machinist I would suggest a set that is dial and earn your way up to a digital set that has an IP rating for use in the CNC machines.
Hi Joe thanks for the talk regarding dial and digital gauges. Didn't realize that there was a height gauge facility on the back of the jaws. We live and learn eh
I'm stubborn and like the dial. I also hate having to change batteries. But dang, the digital is handy.
Joe, nice video but you missed the data/hold button and how it works when you buy the external cable to attach it to a PC. The caliper can push the measurement into the PC using Excel and possibly other software.
If you keep an index card in the case with your caliper, you will always have at hand, something suitable to pull thru the jaws to clean them-
Incremental mode sets a temporary zero just like a dro.
Very handy when your turning to metric sizes on an imperial lathe. Just set it on finished dimension zero and flip it into imperial mode.
Before dial calipers were common, Vernier calipers offered precision to machinists worldwide -- though they require familiarity with the Vernier scaling algorithm. I think "very near caliper" is wordplay alluding to this earlier device and practice. Also, the dial scale can be loosened and rotated to "zero" it to a standard length as well. In the case of the dial caliper, this is mostly useful only to +/- 0.050" or so. You can also use the digital calipers to compute the material to be removed. First, calibrate them at zero. Second, set the desired dimension by sliding the mobile jaw. Third, zero the display while the desired dimension is set. Fourth, measure the material's present dimension relative to the new zero; the new reading is the material to remove (ignore the negative sign).
i don't think there is nothing wrong with old school. I am also old school to i'm retired now
Rad I bought that same Brown & Sharp set from McMaster-Carr around 10yrs ago and I love them.