Nothing worse than a water leak, like you say you need to try to slow it up, unfortunately when they were made, there wasn't a lot of rust proofing available, I tend to use hammerite in vulnerable areas, and once you kill the rust, you can apply it, I've used it under wheel arches, it stops it
As part of the re-painting of the boot floor, I'd be inclined to remove the rubber bungs to all the steel channels & set these aside until you sort the leaks out, that way any water can simply drip out and fresh paint will protect the metalwork from further deterioration. The boot (& the rubber trim) reminds me very much of my Rover P6, similar rubber trim glued down, the same rubber bungs, spare wheel carrier, etc., my leaks were from the rear decker panel mounts - threaded posts that penetrated the structure, Rover used a sort of dum dum putty to seal, just before I sold the car, I found a new source of entry from the roof panel (Rover P6 external panels all bolted onto a base unit) and this was running unnoticed behind trim and then into the boot... I left it for the new owner to resolve as it was going to need a complete replacement roof panel - easy to do on a P6! On the earlier Rover P6, the felt deadening trim had strips to fit into the channel so the felt was locally thickened along each channel - it meant that the felt was nice & smooth for the rubber mats to sit on. I used an American rubber solution to "feed" the rubber trim, it is supposed to be absorbed and prolongs the life of the rubber. I will look this up as I have some left over, made the rubber look nice & fresh but as for its ability to feed the rubber, I just don't know!
There would be a lot in common re. construction methods of Humbers and Rovers, as more care was put into making them. A friend had a P6 3500 Series 2, nice cars but too unorthodox for my liking.
Lots a d lots of black mastic between glass and rubber and seal and body. You can't put enough mastic in. Clean access off after
Humbers , always a great solid car.
Yep, I just need to keep it that way.
Nothing worse than a water leak, like you say you need to try to slow it up, unfortunately when they were made, there wasn't a lot of rust proofing available, I tend to use hammerite in vulnerable areas, and once you kill the rust, you can apply it, I've used it under wheel arches, it stops it
Yes indeed mate, I use Kurust then Hammerite, or red oxide primer, with these modern treatments we should fare much better.
As part of the re-painting of the boot floor, I'd be inclined to remove the rubber bungs to all the steel channels & set these aside until you sort the leaks out, that way any water can simply drip out and fresh paint will protect the metalwork from further deterioration.
The boot (& the rubber trim) reminds me very much of my Rover P6, similar rubber trim glued down, the same rubber bungs, spare wheel carrier, etc., my leaks were from the rear decker panel mounts - threaded posts that penetrated the structure, Rover used a sort of dum dum putty to seal, just before I sold the car, I found a new source of entry from the roof panel (Rover P6 external panels all bolted onto a base unit) and this was running unnoticed behind trim and then into the boot... I left it for the new owner to resolve as it was going to need a complete replacement roof panel - easy to do on a P6!
On the earlier Rover P6, the felt deadening trim had strips to fit into the channel so the felt was locally thickened along each channel - it meant that the felt was nice & smooth for the rubber mats to sit on.
I used an American rubber solution to "feed" the rubber trim, it is supposed to be absorbed and prolongs the life of the rubber. I will look this up as I have some left over, made the rubber look nice & fresh but as for its ability to feed the rubber, I just don't know!
There would be a lot in common re. construction methods of Humbers and Rovers, as more care was put into making them. A friend had a P6 3500 Series 2, nice cars but too unorthodox for my liking.