Wow! What a great resource. Thank you for sharing your knowledge Alex. You should have more subscribers. I've struggled with my bandsaw setup and one of my channel subscribers recommended your channel. This is a fantastic video!
Thanks Alex. I miss The Woodshow's. Was planning on going here in 2024 but several were canceled. I attended your classes several times. Always learned something new.
Alex, I have struggled with my bandsaw since I bought it. After watching this video and following your direction, my bandsaw went from a Yugo to a Ferrari. Thank you so much for what you do!
Hello Mr. Snodgrass. I have seen your band saw tune up a few years ago. Well, about two weeks ago I became a band saw owner. I picked up a Rockwell/Delta 28-200 (mid 1970's I assume). It had some issues. When I got it, it was not even close to being set up properly (based on your videos). I made an attempt to get it somewhat setup but to no avail. I could see immediately the tires needed to be replaced (the upper tire would not stay on the wheel). So, I took it apart, cleaned all the rust off I could and got the parts looking good. The clamp shoes for the trunnion was bad. One was broke in half length wise and the other was in about 7 pieces. I ordered new clamp shoes, tires (urethane-orange) and picked up a link belt. Got my parts in yesterday. I put everything back together today. I used your method of tuning up a band saw. Once I was done and double and triple checked everything, it was setup or should I say dialed in. I put a container of liquid on the table, and showed very little vibration. I said what the hell, and put a nickle on edge on the table... I am pleased that I believe it passes the nickle test. IT does have the original steel blade guides (in very bad condition), which I had to grind down to get them flat. The upper blade guides are round not square, and have not seen this on other saws. I thank you for posting your videos so others can benefit from your knowledge and experience. With out your videos, I would have not know anything about setting up a band saw. Thank very much. Mike - Tucson, AZ
I gotta thankyou for this video,I just got into a 30 year old 14inch jet bandsaw that the previous Owner had set up incorrectly,It was obvious,cool blocks with gouges,thrust bearings with deep grooves cut into them and a bad drive belt. After watching this video and replacing the abused parts I have very smooth running tool,and the timing was perfect as this is my first bandsaw and I had no idea how to set one up. Thanx again for this tutorial
Enjoyed meeting you at The Woodworkimg Show in Baltimore today. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and taking time to speak with each of us. Look forward to what comes next on this channel.
Thank you so much for being a truly great teacher. I am so happy that I came across it. The pulling all the guides away and get the blade tracking is so helpful I'm a man with common sense but I don't think I would have thought of that
I have just adjusted my Laguna 14/12 with the Resaw King blade as suggested here. I aligned the back of the blade to the rear of the wheel so that the gullet is just in front of the centre line. Removing the table is a wonderful tip, as it allows for accurate set up of the ceramic guides. I also replaced the annoying adjustable locking handles with star knobs. The result is much smoother & accurate cuts. Excellent advice!!
I'm wondering if you've modified your tune-up tips for newer model saws. I recently bought a Rikon 14" model. If i try to center the gullet with a 3/4" blade, the blade hangs over the wheel at the back. If i center the gullet with a 3/16" blade the bearings holder won't push back far enough to position the side bearings behind the gullet. I have to position the gullet in the first third of the wheel (ie. Center the blade on the wheel per manufacturer instructions) to be able to correctly position the guide bearings. Wonder if you have any experience or input on this. Is this something unique with newer model saws?
Brand new Jet bandsaw working poorly. I was thinking I need to replace it with something better. Nope, just set it up as Alex shows and good as gold. I just never knew. Thanks so much.
My Craftman bandsaw has been sitting in the corner of my garage/shop for 3 years. I want it so bad. A year ago I purchased the new tires that everyone said I should but could not get the on. I not strong enough. Well I decided to try again 🙃 I pray so hard and ask my Lord to help me get them on. Praise God He did. Go after that it wouldn't work because of it being so badly off tracking. A adjust everything. But now I got it running by adjusting. My saw is very, very old and doesn't have tracking in the back. I found a screw that I believe is because it made my blade not come all the way to edge. But now it is make a lot of noise which it always did. But now I know from all you that it couldn't be making so much noise. I checked & guides & adjustments. It is a odd sound with a small amount of whistle. How would I know if it needs barring or that kind of think
I tried this on my junky old band saw and it made a huge difference. The cuts track straight now, but I’m getting a weird slightly wavy surface texture on the cut faces. Is this to be expected, or am I doing something wrong?
Hey Alex, at the Tampa show you told us that we could download the 4 step process so we can stick it to the inside top cover of our bandsaws. Um, I cant seem to find this document.
So, if you buy a new bandsaw and have to put the table on you're better off doing all this first, before adding the table. If you put the same blade on then the tension gauge is useful, if you recorded it _for that blade._
Hi Alex, thanks for your great guidance. I have a Grizzly G0513X2 bandsaw and have been unable to get the bottom of my sawblade gullet to ride on the center of the wheels. I have moved the back bearings so they are far from the back of the blade and also moved the side bearings so they would be behind the blade teeth when centered and not touching. Then I have loosened tension and repositioned the blade so that the gullet is centered but the blade moves forward until the entire 1/2" blade is centered on the tires. Can you give me advice? Thanks!
Alex if I use the ⅛ blade with stabilizer to cut boxes, can I use the same setup to cut the fronts and backs without changing blade and or a second band saw?
Do you recommend any kind of lubricant for the tensioner? I released my tensioner bar today and nothing happened, then I unscrewed the manual tensioner until the rod pulled out and still nothing happened. I then took a ball peen hammer and tapped lightly on the tensioner and it popped down and released the blade. The saw is a Delta 28-276
Hey Alex. I adjusted the band as you instructed. But I checked the alignment on the lower wheel. It tracks different and not like the upper wheel. Is it supposed track the same? Or do I just set the upper wheel and ignore the lower one?
Jame Andy ignore the lower wheel unless the blade is tracking off the wheel. Remember the bottom has to be further forward than the top so the blade enters at the bottom of the wood At the table first or it would roll the wood into the blade.
Alex hasn't responded to any questions about wide blades with respect to centering the gullet on the center of the wheel. I'm not convinced this recommondation applies to wide blades. But Alex if you are still monitoring your UA-cam comments ... for wide blades (1''wide on 1-1/4 wide wheel) do yo still recommend setting the deepest part of the gullet in the middle of the wheel? Anybody else solve this problem?
How much should the gap between my upper guide bearings and the blade change as I move the guides from the bottom of the cutting height range to the top? Mine vary by about 0.045", which seems like a lot. This is with a 1/2" Jet blade centered on the upper wheel and tensioned properly. If it was just the thrust bearing then I could adjust blade tracking, but the side guide bearings move as well. If I adjust the 'front' side bearing so there is almost no gap at the bottom of the cutting height range (guides just 1/2" above the table), the gap increases to about 0.050" at the top (13" of cutting height). Is this normal? Thanks for your great channel!!
You say the blade is centered on the wheel? You actually want the deepest part of the gullet in the center this should align your blade a little better since the blade placement shouldn’t move, it’s set at the factory
@@bandsawlife2660 Thanks Alex. I did try that (hard to get everything in one post) and it helped a lot with the thrust bearing but did nothing to help the lateral clearance variation. I'm wondering how much lateral clearance variation is 'normal'.
Generally on a flat wheel the blade rides toward the front of the wheel at the top. Tip of the teeth are usually even with the edge of the the front of the tire.
@@bandsawlife2660 thanks for your prompt and helpful wisdom. i got some new tires, and i got crowned tires, so i should be able to follow your advice to the letter regarding crowned wheels now.
How do you keep from hitting your thrust bearing, because when you begin your cut in a resaw application your putting pressure on that blade and it’s going to run into the bearing. The bearing is 1/16 or less away and there’s always some flex. I’m getting really bad blade drift and can’t figure out why. All of my bearing are adjusted to your specs and deepest part of the gullets are on center of the wheel. It’s a new 1inch blade on a PM1500 bandsaw. Any thoughts? Thx
@@bandsawlife2660 Okay, then I’m not sure why my blade is drifting. The blade feels sharp and it’s fairly new too. But that’s the only thing that it might be is the blade. I’ve looked at everything else.
@@bandsawlife2660 For the life of me, I can’t remember what brand of blade it is. The blade spec a 1” blade with 4 TPI. I just finished double checking all of the guide bearings and thrust bearings, those seem to be set right where you mention they should be in your video. The deepest part of the gullet is riding dead center of the upper wheel. Speaking of wheels, what about the lower wheel, does it necessarily ride in the center like the upper? Mine is not riding in the center on the bottom wheel. I’m thinking it has to be the blade. I tried running a solid piece of cedar 4x4 through and it wasn’t cutting well at all. It’s a Powermatic PM1500, takes a 153-1/2” blade, I think, I’d have to double check. Do you have a blade manufacturer that you would recommend I look at for buying a new resawing blade? Is the teeth count where I should be, 4 TPI? Not sure if this is true or not, but heard you should always use the biggest blade your machine can fit when it comes to resawing. Thank you very much for your help!
Order a 5/8” greenwood blade from Carter Products. That all I keep on my 24” Powermatic you’ll be glad you did. Tell them I sent you and they will give you a 10% discount Best blade you’ll ever use
Hi, my Ryobi BS 900 Bandsaw blade twists when turning wood material to cut an angle in the wood thus cutting a straight line. Is there a way to fix this? I know it is not supposed to happen otherwise it will be impossible to cut angles, the blade cuts fine and is thin which I understand is supposed to allow for tighter turns in cutting angles in wood. The machine was used and I am not sure what the previous owner did, I followed the setup instructions from this video as best I could but I am not sure if I have the tension completely correct, . Has anyone else ever had this experience or know how to fix this, any help is greatly appreciated.
The issue is the saw it self. It has a 9” wheel and you can’t use a blade thick enough to prevent twisting. The radius of the wheel requires a thin kerf blade to prevent stress cracks. I wish I had a better answer for you.
@@bandsawlife2660 Thanks for the quick reply. Is there anything i can do to cut a curve as I am unable to cut any curve. Every time I try to cut a curve the blade twists to the curve and the blade guide sometimes pops up or sparks. It is frustrating as I see others on youtube with a 9 inch bandsaw cutting curves but mine isn't cutting any curve. Is there a way to fix it so it will cut a curve?
@@bandsawlife2660 Thanks again for the help, it appears the blade may not be tensioned enough and I have tensioned it as much as it can go, as the tension knob stopped turning. But since reinstalling the blade and tensioning it as far as it would go, it did successfully cut a curve, though the 2nd time cutting left some burn marks on the wood during cutting the curve, which of course I immediately stopped cutting. But I wanted to thank you for your help. I have ordered a 3/8 blade and will try it out also. Thanks again.
@@bandsawlife2660 I just noticed that the bottom block guide got knocked loose from when I tried cutting a curve, so I am thinking my main issues are blade tension and effective guides. Do you know if they make bearing guides for 9" bandsaws, to replace block guides?
Is this dude still kicking, my bandsaw needs some serious help. It wobbles and shakes like crazy and I can’t figure out what’s wrong. It seems to cut alright but if I lay a cup on the table and start the bandsaw that cup will be on the ground within 5 seconds. It shakes that bad 😬
@@bandsawlife2660 yeah I defiantly will have to try that, I bought it from my work and the reason they got rid of it was because someone hit the table with the back end of a forklift and destroyed the trunnions and they were discontinued along with pretty much every other part on the saw so it just made sense to replace it. I ended up casting new trunnions and got it back up and running but it seems like the fork lift may have slightly bent the frame. The trunnions were aluminum so the table didn’t stand a change against the forklift so I wouldn’t imagine the frame of the bandsaw would have been tweaked but I may be wrong. I’m going to replace the bearings and urethane belts and see if that helps. When you stand off to the side and watch the blade it seems to be moving left and back to center on a specific part of the rotation but I can’t pin it down to see what’s happening. I’m wondering if that’s normal for a old bandsaw. The model is the delta 28-682 18” bandsaw
@@bandsawlife2660 The blade is tracking all the time no matter how many times I've tuned it. The blade is 3/4",, Guide bearings seem to be angled.. but do not touch the blade, however, the blade twists nearly 5 deg.. How can I send you images / videos?
@@bandsawlife2660 Highland woodworking, and its the first time using it. Brand new! New poly utherene tyres.. How can I forward you some pictures and videos?
15 n a half minutes! Not long enough! Wasn’t the original like 40 minutes? Still barely long enough but wholly worth reposting here on your new channel! I refer every new bandsaw owner to this video! I still use it as a refresher course for myself if I go a few minutes without using MY bandsaw!
Legend has it that Alex can cut a piece of hard maple so thin that it only has one side.
I think it was Stumpy Nubs that sent me over here. What a great setup video. No fluff, awesome pace, full of gold.
Thank you so very much.
That was one of the most informative tutorials I have witnessed
Well done sir
Thank you for helping us stay safe
I didn’t know how little I knew about the bandsaw. What a great resource! Thanks so much!
Wow! What a great resource. Thank you for sharing your knowledge Alex. You should have more subscribers. I've struggled with my bandsaw setup and one of my channel subscribers recommended your channel. This is a fantastic video!
Thanks Alex. I miss The Woodshow's. Was planning on going here in 2024 but several were canceled. I attended your classes several times. Always learned something new.
Alex, I have struggled with my bandsaw since I bought it. After watching this video and following your direction, my bandsaw went from a Yugo to a Ferrari. Thank you so much for what you do!
Thank you for the feedback
You just took me from a 1 to a 6 on bandsaw knowledge. Thank you!
Hello Mr. Snodgrass. I have seen your band saw tune up a few years ago. Well, about two weeks ago I became a band saw owner. I picked up a Rockwell/Delta 28-200 (mid 1970's I assume). It had some issues. When I got it, it was not even close to being set up properly (based on your videos). I made an attempt to get it somewhat setup but to no avail. I could see immediately the tires needed to be replaced (the upper tire would not stay on the wheel). So, I took it apart, cleaned all the rust off I could and got the parts looking good. The clamp shoes for the trunnion was bad. One was broke in half length wise and the other was in about 7 pieces. I ordered new clamp shoes, tires (urethane-orange) and picked up a link belt. Got my parts in yesterday. I put everything back together today. I used your method of tuning up a band saw. Once I was done and double and triple checked everything, it was setup or should I say dialed in. I put a container of liquid on the table, and showed very little vibration. I said what the hell, and put a nickle on edge on the table... I am pleased that I believe it passes the nickle test. IT does have the original steel blade guides (in very bad condition), which I had to grind down to get them flat. The upper blade guides are round not square, and have not seen this on other saws. I thank you for posting your videos so others can benefit from your knowledge and experience. With out your videos, I would have not know anything about setting up a band saw. Thank very much. Mike - Tucson, AZ
what a great presentation!
This is the defacto standard in bandsaw setup and tuning! So excited to see you finally starting your own channel Alex!
TheMakersWorkbench thank you.
Brilliant, clear and precise! Thank you
What did we do before youtube? Great demonstration of know how.
I gotta thankyou for this video,I just got into a 30 year old 14inch jet bandsaw that the previous
Owner had set up incorrectly,It was obvious,cool blocks with gouges,thrust bearings with deep grooves cut into them and a bad drive belt.
After watching this video and replacing the abused parts I have very smooth running tool,and the timing was perfect as this is my first bandsaw and I had no idea how to set one up.
Thanx again for this tutorial
Should have watched this video before talking to you today about my blades jumping off. Thanks
Heartfelt, nice video. I can not say enough truly enjoyed watching this video. Thank you for sharing
THANK YOU for this simple method of band saw setup. I'm looking forward to better resaw results.
50 seconds in and Im hooked! Thank you for this video!
Thanks to Izzy Swan for recommending your channel. Subscribed!
Rag Tie thank you
Izzy is The Man!
Enjoyed meeting you at The Woodworkimg Show in Baltimore today. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and taking time to speak with each of us. Look forward to what comes next on this channel.
Troy Fenton thank you.
Very clear and concise instructions. Thanks for making the video.
Skully Wood & Metal thanks
Great tutorial on how to set up a bandsaw Alex. Absolute master at work and looking forward to what this channel will bring.
Gerard Walsh thank you
Thank you so much for being a truly great teacher.
I am so happy that I came across it.
The pulling all the guides away and get the blade tracking is so helpful
I'm a man with common sense but I don't think I would have thought of that
Happy to help, thanks for the support
Thank you for the knowledge and lessons you shared! You are the Band Saw God! Thank you so much!
I have just adjusted my Laguna 14/12 with the Resaw King blade as suggested here. I aligned the back of the blade to the rear of the wheel so that the gullet is just in front of the centre line. Removing the table is a wonderful tip, as it allows for accurate set up of the ceramic guides. I also replaced the annoying adjustable locking handles with star knobs. The result is much smoother & accurate cuts. Excellent advice!!
I'm hooked !!!! You are the best in the world.
Scott Phillips thanks Scott, see you in Columbus
He's a fantastic teacher!
Thank you!!! amazing information!
I'm wondering if you've modified your tune-up tips for newer model saws. I recently bought a Rikon 14" model. If i try to center the gullet with a 3/4" blade, the blade hangs over the wheel at the back. If i center the gullet with a 3/16" blade the bearings holder won't push back far enough to position the side bearings behind the gullet. I have to position the gullet in the first third of the wheel (ie. Center the blade on the wheel per manufacturer instructions) to be able to correctly position the guide bearings. Wonder if you have any experience or input on this. Is this something unique with newer model saws?
Thanks Alex. Though I did run out of lateral adjustment on the top wheel and couldn't get the gullet into the centre. Jet 18" bandsaw.
I'm having the same trouble, with the same saw. Although I am maxing out the saw with an 1 1/4 wide blade
Absolute Pro! Thank you
Brand new Jet bandsaw working poorly. I was thinking I need to replace it with something better. Nope, just set it up as Alex shows and good as gold. I just never knew. Thanks so much.
Great instructional skills!
Outstanding vid.
My Craftman bandsaw has been sitting in the corner of my garage/shop for 3 years. I want it so bad. A year ago I purchased the new tires that everyone said I should but could not get the on. I not strong enough. Well I decided to try again 🙃 I pray so hard and ask my Lord to help me get them on. Praise God He did. Go after that it wouldn't work because of it being so badly off tracking. A adjust everything. But now I got it running by adjusting. My saw is very, very old and doesn't have tracking in the back. I found a screw that I believe is because it made my blade not come all the way to edge.
But now it is make a lot of noise which it always did. But now I know from all you that it couldn't be making so much noise. I checked & guides & adjustments. It is a odd sound with a small amount of whistle.
How would I know if it needs barring or that kind of think
I tried this on my junky old band saw and it made a huge difference. The cuts track straight now, but I’m getting a weird slightly wavy surface texture on the cut faces. Is this to be expected, or am I doing something wrong?
Brendan Smith sounds like the blade is too lose
Hey Alex, at the Tampa show you told us that we could download the 4 step process so we can stick it to the inside top cover of our bandsaws. Um, I cant seem to find this document.
You can print it off my Facebook page or I can email it to you.
So, if you buy a new bandsaw and have to put the table on you're better off doing all this first, before adding the table.
If you put the same blade on then the tension gauge is useful, if you recorded it _for that blade._
Hi Alex, thanks for your great guidance. I have a Grizzly G0513X2 bandsaw and have been unable to get the bottom of my sawblade gullet to ride on the center of the wheels. I have moved the back bearings so they are far from the back of the blade and also moved the side bearings so they would be behind the blade teeth when centered and not touching. Then I have loosened tension and repositioned the blade so that the gullet is centered but the blade moves forward until the entire 1/2" blade is centered on the tires. Can you give me advice? Thanks!
Alex if I use the ⅛ blade with stabilizer to cut boxes, can I use the same setup to cut the fronts and backs without changing blade and or a second band saw?
Awesome video! Where did you come by your Allen wrench tool. Thanks.
Good ole Lowes
Do you recommend any kind of lubricant for the tensioner? I released my tensioner bar today and nothing happened, then I unscrewed the manual tensioner until the rod pulled out and still nothing happened. I then took a ball peen hammer and tapped lightly on the tensioner and it popped down and released the blade. The saw is a Delta 28-276
@@Rebel9668 any dry lube will work.
Hey Alex. I adjusted the band as you instructed. But I checked the alignment on the lower wheel. It tracks different and not like the upper wheel. Is it supposed track the same? Or do I just set the upper wheel and ignore the lower one?
Jame Andy ignore the lower wheel unless the blade is tracking off the wheel. Remember the bottom has to be further forward than the top so the blade enters at the bottom of the wood At the table first or it would roll the wood into the blade.
Are the steps the same for a 3 inch blade?
Absolutely
Alex hasn't responded to any questions about wide blades with respect to centering the gullet on the center of the wheel. I'm not convinced this recommondation applies to wide blades. But Alex if you are still monitoring your UA-cam comments ... for wide blades (1''wide on 1-1/4 wide wheel) do yo still recommend setting the deepest part of the gullet in the middle of the wheel? Anybody else solve this problem?
Sorry if I missed this, always center the deepest part of the gullet in the center of the wheel unless it overhangs the back of the wheel
@@bandsawlife2660 Thank you for the clarification and quick reply!
How much should the gap between my upper guide bearings and the blade change as I move the guides from the bottom of the cutting height range to the top? Mine vary by about 0.045", which seems like a lot. This is with a 1/2" Jet blade centered on the upper wheel and tensioned properly. If it was just the thrust bearing then I could adjust blade tracking, but the side guide bearings move as well. If I adjust the 'front' side bearing so there is almost no gap at the bottom of the cutting height range (guides just 1/2" above the table), the gap increases to about 0.050" at the top (13" of cutting height). Is this normal? Thanks for your great channel!!
You say the blade is centered on the wheel? You actually want the deepest part of the gullet in the center this should align your blade a little better since the blade placement shouldn’t move, it’s set at the factory
@@bandsawlife2660 Thanks Alex. I did try that (hard to get everything in one post) and it helped a lot with the thrust bearing but did nothing to help the lateral clearance variation. I'm wondering how much lateral clearance variation is 'normal'.
Can I continue to use a bandsaw blade that got kinked say 90°? Not a sharp kink maybe the radius of a quarter?
If you can bend it enough to work, sure. It will leave a rougher cut and could break
How can i contact you with specific. Questions
Hugedolphinfan@yahoo.com
what if the wheel is not crowned? where should it be with relation to the (uncrowned) tire?
Generally on a flat wheel the blade rides toward the front of the wheel at the top. Tip of the teeth are usually even with the edge of the the front of the tire.
@@bandsawlife2660 thanks for your prompt and helpful wisdom. i got some new tires, and i got crowned tires, so i should be able to follow your advice to the letter regarding crowned wheels now.
Awesome video! #truth
BloxygenBoy thank you
can i use a universal (wood and metal) saw for resawing wood ?
Absolutely, just be sure the speed is at max for wood
How do you keep from hitting your thrust bearing, because when you begin your cut in a resaw application your putting pressure on that blade and it’s going to run into the bearing. The bearing is 1/16 or less away and there’s always some flex. I’m getting really bad blade drift and can’t figure out why. All of my bearing are adjusted to your specs and deepest part of the gullets are on center of the wheel. It’s a new 1inch blade on a PM1500 bandsaw. Any thoughts? Thx
You should hit the thrust bearing as soon as you start to cut.
@@bandsawlife2660 Okay, then I’m not sure why my blade is drifting. The blade feels sharp and it’s fairly new too. But that’s the only thing that it might be is the blade. I’ve looked at everything else.
What kind of blade is it?
@@bandsawlife2660 For the life of me, I can’t remember what brand of blade it is. The blade spec a 1” blade with 4 TPI. I just finished double checking all of the guide bearings and thrust bearings, those seem to be set right where you mention they should be in your video. The deepest part of the gullet is riding dead center of the upper wheel. Speaking of wheels, what about the lower wheel, does it necessarily ride in the center like the upper? Mine is not riding in the center on the bottom wheel. I’m thinking it has to be the blade. I tried running a solid piece of cedar 4x4 through and it wasn’t cutting well at all. It’s a Powermatic PM1500, takes a 153-1/2” blade, I think, I’d have to double check. Do you have a blade manufacturer that you would recommend I look at for buying a new resawing blade? Is the teeth count where I should be, 4 TPI? Not sure if this is true or not, but heard you should always use the biggest blade your machine can fit when it comes to resawing. Thank you very much for your help!
Order a 5/8” greenwood blade from Carter Products. That all I keep on my 24” Powermatic you’ll be glad you did. Tell them I sent you and they will give you a 10% discount
Best blade you’ll ever use
Sometimes I wish I has four or five hands when making jigs.
Hi, my Ryobi BS 900 Bandsaw blade twists when turning wood material to cut an angle in the wood thus cutting a straight line. Is there a way to fix this? I know it is not supposed to happen otherwise it will be impossible to cut angles, the blade cuts fine and is thin which I understand is supposed to allow for tighter turns in cutting angles in wood. The machine was used and I am not sure what the previous owner did, I followed the setup instructions from this video as best I could but I am not sure if I have the tension completely correct, . Has anyone else ever had this experience or know how to fix this, any help is greatly appreciated.
The issue is the saw it self. It has a 9” wheel and you can’t use a blade thick enough to prevent twisting. The radius of the wheel requires a thin kerf blade to prevent stress cracks. I wish I had a better answer for you.
@@bandsawlife2660 Thanks for the quick reply. Is there anything i can do to cut a curve as I am unable to cut any curve. Every time I try to cut a curve the blade twists to the curve and the blade guide sometimes pops up or sparks. It is frustrating as I see others on youtube with a 9 inch bandsaw cutting curves but mine isn't cutting any curve. Is there a way to fix it so it will cut a curve?
@@bandsawlife2660 Thanks again for the help, it appears the blade may not be tensioned enough and I have tensioned it as much as it can go, as the tension knob stopped turning. But since reinstalling the blade and tensioning it as far as it would go, it did successfully cut a curve, though the 2nd time cutting left some burn marks on the wood during cutting the curve, which of course I immediately stopped cutting. But I wanted to thank you for your help. I have ordered a 3/8 blade and will try it out also. Thanks again.
@@bandsawlife2660 I just noticed that the bottom block guide got knocked loose from when I tried cutting a curve, so I am thinking my main issues are blade tension and effective guides. Do you know if they make bearing guides for 9" bandsaws, to replace block guides?
The only guide made for 9” are the blade stabilizers. Give Carter a call at 888-622-7937 and they can help you out.
Is this dude still kicking, my bandsaw needs some serious help. It wobbles and shakes like crazy and I can’t figure out what’s wrong. It seems to cut alright but if I lay a cup on the table and start the bandsaw that cup will be on the ground within 5 seconds. It shakes that bad 😬
Sound like a balance issue for sure. I find placing my saw on cardboard helps dampen a lot of vibration
@@bandsawlife2660 yeah I defiantly will have to try that, I bought it from my work and the reason they got rid of it was because someone hit the table with the back end of a forklift and destroyed the trunnions and they were discontinued along with pretty much every other part on the saw so it just made sense to replace it. I ended up casting new trunnions and got it back up and running but it seems like the fork lift may have slightly bent the frame. The trunnions were aluminum so the table didn’t stand a change against the forklift so I wouldn’t imagine the frame of the bandsaw would have been tweaked but I may be wrong. I’m going to replace the bearings and urethane belts and see if that helps. When you stand off to the side and watch the blade it seems to be moving left and back to center on a specific part of the rotation but I can’t pin it down to see what’s happening. I’m wondering if that’s normal for a old bandsaw. The model is the delta 28-682 18” bandsaw
More than likely the blade movement is from a bad blade not the saw.
Thank you now I know that was doing everything wrong.
Hello, I need help with my Bandsaw 14" Delta. I got it 2nd Hand and its in bad shaper.
I have videos + images to show you.
Sure what is the issue
@@bandsawlife2660 The blade is tracking all the time no matter how many times I've tuned it.
The blade is 3/4",, Guide bearings seem to be angled.. but do not touch the blade, however, the blade twists nearly 5 deg..
How can I send you images / videos?
@@iq0099 sounds like a bad blade what brand is it?
@@bandsawlife2660 Highland woodworking, and its the first time using it. Brand new!
New poly utherene tyres..
How can I forward you some pictures and videos?
Hugedolphinfan@yahoo.com
Before I start all of my power Equpment in my shop.
⭐
15 n a half minutes! Not long enough! Wasn’t the original like 40 minutes? Still barely long enough but wholly worth reposting here on your new channel! I refer every new bandsaw owner to this video! I still use it as a refresher course for myself if I go a few minutes without using MY bandsaw!
Stay tuned for the bandsaw box and Carter stabilizer portion of the original video. We broke the original video into two sections.
4R NORTHWEST thank you
Good info, but tracking information is based on false assumptions.