I went to zone focus at the beginning of this year. I bought a 28mm around Christmas last year. It's not as easy to do with my 40mm. I shoot with a Nikon z6 II. I'll focus on a spot right in front of me or the wall of a building because there's no markings on the lens. I recently got back into film. I've bought 4 film SLR cameras. Two of them are Nikon so I only bought one 28mm to use on both. I bought a 28mm for the other two bodies. One is a Canon and the other is a Minolta. They all have the markings because they're all manual focus lenses. I'm not used to trusting the markings. With digital you can look at the screen at the back to check your focus but with film you don't know until you develop the film. I need to start carrying a notebook and take notes of what I do.
@@carlmcneill1139 Hi Carl! I know how hard it can be to try to do it with the autofocus lenses without a scale, especially those that are focus by wire and not controlled physically. It’s good you got some Nikon bodies though so you could use the FTZ to adapt the lenses to your z6 as well if you want! I agree that it can be a process to get comfortable with just using the distance scales and their is a small chance that something is off with the calibration so you might see issues but I think it’s unlikely that there would be a large enough error. Also if you have a DOF preview lever or button on your camera body you would be able to preview the focus at the shallower apertures too albeit at the cost of losing brightness in the viewfinder. I would say the best thing to do is to shoot some test rolls where you manually focus through the viewfinder and use zone focus on a few different shots and keep track of which is which and then compare afterwards. That way you can see how each performs for you and you can hopefully have a little more confidence in shooting with the scale alone. Hope this helps! Good luck
@saif9817 that's what I've been doing. I just haven't developed my film yet. We'll I've developed a roll of b&w. I have the kit for color but haven't tried it yet. I have some old rolls of film I'm going to test first before I develop my new rolls to make sure I'm doing it right. I just bought negative lab pro. I need to get it started.
Glad it helped! Will definitely do better on the mix next time I think there are definitely some parts where the music is a little too loud so will make it quieter. For what it’s worth though I get different results based on what I watch it on so you could try it on some different audio outputs to see if one is better
I went to zone focus at the beginning of this year. I bought a 28mm around Christmas last year. It's not as easy to do with my 40mm. I shoot with a Nikon z6 II. I'll focus on a spot right in front of me or the wall of a building because there's no markings on the lens. I recently got back into film. I've bought 4 film SLR cameras. Two of them are Nikon so I only bought one 28mm to use on both. I bought a 28mm for the other two bodies. One is a Canon and the other is a Minolta. They all have the markings because they're all manual focus lenses. I'm not used to trusting the markings. With digital you can look at the screen at the back to check your focus but with film you don't know until you develop the film. I need to start carrying a notebook and take notes of what I do.
@@carlmcneill1139 Hi Carl! I know how hard it can be to try to do it with the autofocus lenses without a scale, especially those that are focus by wire and not controlled physically. It’s good you got some Nikon bodies though so you could use the FTZ to adapt the lenses to your z6 as well if you want!
I agree that it can be a process to get comfortable with just using the distance scales and their is a small chance that something is off with the calibration so you might see issues but I think it’s unlikely that there would be a large enough error. Also if you have a DOF preview lever or button on your camera body you would be able to preview the focus at the shallower apertures too albeit at the cost of losing brightness in the viewfinder.
I would say the best thing to do is to shoot some test rolls where you manually focus through the viewfinder and use zone focus on a few different shots and keep track of which is which and then compare afterwards. That way you can see how each performs for you and you can hopefully have a little more confidence in shooting with the scale alone.
Hope this helps! Good luck
@saif9817 that's what I've been doing. I just haven't developed my film yet. We'll I've developed a roll of b&w. I have the kit for color but haven't tried it yet. I have some old rolls of film I'm going to test first before I develop my new rolls to make sure I'm doing it right. I just bought negative lab pro. I need to get it started.
fastest manual shooter in the west
Formerly in the East
great video, helped me a lot.👌 little hard to hear though
Glad it helped!
Will definitely do better on the mix next time I think there are definitely some parts where the music is a little too loud so will make it quieter.
For what it’s worth though I get different results based on what I watch it on so you could try it on some different audio outputs to see if one is better
My goat dropped a heater
@@PicausesoManyProblems we’re trying out here! Thanks for the support!!