You know.....you vid's are the best because: 1. no background noise (or minimal) 2. no music 3. clear normal voice ...not shouting like other people as if they present a commercial 4. concise, detailed explanation that makes sense
The FX series is the closest thing to a set it and forget it filter I've ever used. I only run the coarse white sponges in my FX5's with the center trays full of ceramic rings for maximum bio. I have one running on a Piranha Tank that's been going non stop for almost two years with no maintenance and no sign of reduced flow. Worth every penny!
Dude this was a great video. You got some cool tricks to the trade there. I am currently setting up a 120. Going to buy an fx6 for it. Seeing how you drain and refill water is going to be a help down the line. Thankyou
David, I enjoyed your video but I got tell you, I have several FX6’s and because I hate cleaning them probably more than most, I usually let them go 6 months or more between cleanings. I also am heavily into discus, angels, chiclids, and severums that I breed and raise. In my opinion, I think you need to go a lot deeper in cleaning your FX6 filter media. I go about things the same way you do, but I squeeze out each sponge repeatedly until they release essentially clear water. I usually wash them in tap water but then finish them in tank water. All the garbage about only using tank water is overblown and my fish are fine as long as I don’t fill the filter with tap water. There is plenty of beneficial bacteria in an established aquarium and as long as you use chlorine remover for water and filter changes, you’ll be good to go. So, wash filter media out more thoroughly and you won’t have to do it nearly as often. Cheers!
Use a Eihem Prefilter in the Fluval FX6 inlet. The prefilter has two sections filled with 30 PPI Coarse sponge. You can replace one of it's section by filter floss material to filter fine debris entering the FX6. Less debris..Coarse or Fine..Less maintenance for the FX6 for longer duration.
I was wondering about your light program/ duration and max intensity. I think we’re both using Kessil 360’s. I’m working on an algae issue. Appreciate any insight!
Once I clean and put my fx6 back under the aquarium I refill the fx6 using the gravel vacuum hose to fill It backup from the tank that would eliminate you carrying the heavy filter back inside then I fill the tank up from the tap putting conditioner and adjusting the temperature works for me never had an issue
I really like your hose upgrades you did on that FX6, what fittings are those? I found out the hard way that those hoses were specialty size and almost flooded my turtle room xD
I have a turtles, I also, switched out the hoses on the fx6. I use 1" ID hoses which are larger and allow for more flow. You need to put hose clamps (real metal ones, not those crappy plastic ones a lot of filters come with) on the connection to the filter and it will form an air tight seal.
I didn't trust the hoses that came with the FX6, heard a lot of horror stories of the plastic stretching and cracking. Ended up ordering food grade reinforced hoses at 1" ID. (Basically the same kind of hoses used for soda machines.)
Great video and details on the Fluval! What type of heater is that you had in the replenishment water? I dont recall finding any with a digital readout of the temp? Also, what heater do you use on your discuss tank?
@@hugheymorrow Thanks David, I have been searching but did not find one that looked like yours in the garbage can. However I did find an offbrand that I am not sure I trust. I have had so many heater failures lately so looking for something reliable and experiences with those with delicate fish temps such as Discus. I can not find a 1000w Hygger. So far, can find the 800w. I currently have 2-300w heaters on my 125 gallon tank.
Robh - I'm not a pro at this by any means. I got into the hobby just recently after getting married to take over my wife's 75 gallon fish tank to recover it as she had been struggling with it for years. I put an eheim heater in it. It's not digital but it is German made and very robust. They don't make a 1000 watt heater though. Their's go up to 300 but can do a tank up to 264 gallons (1000 liters). Mine has been a complete champ! Heats very well. It has a dial to set the temperature but I use a tank thermometer to regulate the temp. I have the heater set at 72 but the thermometer reads 80°. I prefer 80° for some of the fish that we have in the tank. Very good heater though. Don't do like I did! I bought mine at a fish store for about $100!!! The guy sold me on the German made fully submersible product. I was just looking it up for this comment right now and found them on chewy wayyyy cheaper! I have the 200 watt and it's the same price as the 300 watt - $35. Wish I would have looked first! I was in the store though and in need of a heater and didn't think I'd be getting ripped off that badly! I'll think twice before buying anything from there again. Like I said, I'm new and apparently ignorant to prices lol.
@Will Dennis the best way to look at it ? The local shops in the future will be few & far between because they have been losing more business to the online industry, and the only way they can make it is to have some good fish and expensive items. It's just like over tipping the pizza guy 🐠🍕
From what I have seen over time, not much gets caught in those... so I guess mostly bio in actuality, though I believe the intention is to capture debris, but 95% of that is in the basket sponges every time I open the thing up.
@@hugheymorrow What would imply that the sponges in the outer circle are a waste of space (and money)?. Pondguru has the media denser packed (his famous black-blue bubble foams, ua-cam.com/video/yrOqfXG2nL0/v-deo.html). What I could imagine is vertically stacked coarse -> denser medium in the outer ring before it hits the central canister where the water goes down. Unfortunately there is no single good drawing that shows how the water flow goes exactly. Some diagrams suggest the water actually can flow in between the sponge layer and the canister wall, and the sponge layer and the inner canister (which would explain your observation, and the clean sponge in this video) I'm ever more leaning towards a traditional canister filter with all the bio material, and a booster as mechanical pre-filter. I'm very unlikely to buy an FX6 without having my hands on it :-(
When you filled your tank using the fx6 I noticed you turned both in/out valves on. I'll be getting my fx6 today but have been doing a lot of research hence this video. I have learned that when you use the fluval gravel vac that is compatible with the fx6 you turn the in valve off and the out valve on. The water goes through the gravel vac down to the pump valve on the bottom of the tank (as you have it setup for filling) and back through the outtake and into the tank. Wouldn't this be the same concept when filling from your garbage can? I feel like if you closed the intake valve you'd get better suction out of your garbage can and fill faster. The way you have it setup you're sucking from the tank and the garbage can. At least this is how I see it. If you have any advice as to how this method you're using is more beneficial I'd appreciate it.
I simply like running the filter intake while filling the tank. Keeps debris cleared up sooner when stuff is release from the outflow and also keeps water cycling through the canister. Personal preference, not a critical thing, no big deal, whatever you prefer.
@@hugheymorrow Sounds like a legit reason. I have always siphoned the substrate and while doing so it removes water. I siphon out a little over 30%. 75 gallon tank I siphon out 4 five gallon buckets. Two birds one stone. Clean and water change. I just got my fx6 setup and running just a few minutes ago and will be using the fluval vac that attaches to the canister. That doesn't remove the water (genius idea!) and then I'll drain the tank from the canister and refill it with your method.
@Will Dennis Yeah I agree with you and going back to 2002 was the first time I bought the Marineland pro cannister filter which came with the gravel vac and it worked similar to Fluvals FX 4,5,6 albeit a 1/10th of the size and since I started keeping fish in the last 4 years I have totally forgotten about the old 350 pro and I think I will be buying the FX 4 & the gravel cleaning accessories for my 75 and 40 breeder .Just to use for the extra time to get 1 side really good and a month or so doing the other side and the Python weekly as always. Memories of maintenance!!!
great explanation of everything you did. i have always had the question that I see most ppl do, but haven't ever done it myself. Why rinse in tank water vs tap water? Most ppl say its to keep the media rinsed in the water it came from. My question is why? I am by no means a noob just to clear that question. I currently have a 300g fresh water with a aquadecor background and a 100g sump for African Cichlids (mbuna to be specific). Now if 99% of the Beneficial bacteria is in the media, substrate, plants and decor, whats the point of rinsing in tank water if it hold little to no bacteria. Only thing I can come up with is that the possible contamination of something in the tap water to offset the tank itself. I have always rinsed in a bathtub or use a pressure washer outside. If you could offer some of your insight and how and why would be great. Thanks again bro
Beneficial bacteria is very sensitive to any kind of rapid or extreme changes. There is different types of bacteria within your bacterial colony; and thus, when you perform maintenance this is the concern. If your not careful you can kill the colony with a small chlorine spike, or an extreme swing in water temperature; due to oxygen concentration within your water column. About the only bacteria that wouldn’t be affected by an oxygen deprivation would be your anaerobic bacteria which is the one who consumes your nitrates and completes your cycle. It seems like a nuisance when performing maintenance, but it’s that colony of bacteria that keeps all living organism healthy and thriving within our tanks. And that is the why for the attention to these minute details. Respectfully, Carlos A. González Sr.
@@Backblast72 i agree about the BB but again what does rinsing out your sponges and media in tank water benefit? Im not arguing, just a great conversation piece. I understand the RODI thought as it should have the smallest amount of any trace element but some still in the water column. But if the majority of your aerobic and anaerobic bacteria is also attached to everything in the tank.......I just have never had an issue with tap water and tend to let nature take its course. I see far more tanks crash because ppl continue to fiddle with this or that. Thanks for the reply from you and the David
@@sgtbehrens yeah man I rinse all my filter first in tank water then in tap water every time no issues at all. Some guy pulled the scientific data on it and it showed that it would take hours of sitting in tap water for it to do anything to the bacteria. I just feel like it comes out so fresh with that rinse in tap.
First of all why fire so long without cleaning and why not rinse all the sponges? Just cause you can go that long doesn't mean you should. It's absolutely a myth that you can't rinse your sponges in tap water. It takes an hour forty-five minutes for the concentration of chlorine in tap water to kill your beneficial bacteria. When you only rinse for about a minute tops nothing to worry about. Also you lose more bacteria in all the crap that comes out of your sponges than tap water or exposing them to air would ever kill. Unless you left them out to dry obviously. Last but not least anaerobic bacteria convert nitrate back to nitrite then back to ammonia. Nobody tells people this. So the top inch or so of your substrate that gets enough oxygen to support beneficial bacteria is not only working on every thing in the water column but it's also working on everything from below and it all ends up back to nitrate. Best thing you can do is have shallow substrate or an under gravel filter to get oxygen all the way through. Plants only use trace amounts of nitrate so they don't lower nitrate by consuming it. They lower nitrate because they consume ammonia so nitrate isn't made in the first place. Best thing you can do is keep your substrate clean and your filters clean. Personally I clean filters once a month doesn't matter if it's an fx6, 304b, aquaclear 110, Tidal 110. I use all of these. Some of my hob's I clean weekly because I use them for polishing only.
You need to reverse your blue and black foam filters on the side. Black is course and blue is a finer foam filter. Water flows through them from outside in and then up to the top. Plus the length of each need to be all the way to each edge with no gaps. This may be why they were not as dirty.
You know.....you vid's are the best because:
1. no background noise (or minimal)
2. no music
3. clear normal voice ...not shouting like other people as if they present a commercial
4. concise, detailed explanation that makes sense
I really appreciate that, thank you.
Totally dig the music used for disassembly and cleaning of the sponges lol
The FX series is the closest thing to a set it and forget it filter I've ever used. I only run the coarse white sponges in my FX5's with the center trays full of ceramic rings for maximum bio. I have one running on a Piranha Tank that's been going non stop for almost two years with no maintenance and no sign of reduced flow. Worth every penny!
Your fish look amazing. I remember watching your set up video of the entire process.
Respectfully,
Carlos A. González Sr.
Learned so much from this video! Thanks for the instructional!
Dude this was a great video. You got some cool tricks to the trade there. I am currently setting up a 120. Going to buy an fx6 for it. Seeing how you drain and refill water is going to be a help down the line. Thankyou
Makes it worth my while to know it helped. Thanks for the comment.
David, I enjoyed your video but I got tell you, I have several FX6’s and because I hate cleaning them probably more than most, I usually let them go 6 months or more between cleanings. I also am heavily into discus, angels, chiclids, and severums that I breed and raise. In my opinion, I think you need to go a lot deeper in cleaning your FX6 filter media. I go about things the same way you do, but I squeeze out each sponge repeatedly until they release essentially clear water. I usually wash them in tap water but then finish them in tank water. All the garbage about only using tank water is overblown and my fish are fine as long as I don’t fill the filter with tap water. There is plenty of beneficial bacteria in an established aquarium and as long as you use chlorine remover for water and filter changes, you’ll be good to go. So, wash filter media out more thoroughly and you won’t have to do it nearly as often. Cheers!
Use a Eihem Prefilter in the Fluval FX6 inlet. The prefilter has two sections filled with 30 PPI Coarse sponge. You can replace one of it's section by filter floss material to filter fine debris entering the FX6. Less debris..Coarse or Fine..Less maintenance for the FX6 for longer duration.
Damn… having Discus looks like a really big problem haha
You’re tank is so pretty. Just love the discus! 👍☺️ I hate servicing canisters 😂
Nice tank! How often do you do water changes?
Weekly 35-40% when I have discus
Hey David, I recently watched your discus video where you treated the tank with General Cure. How is that discus doing now?
Excellently. Works well.
I was wondering about your light program/ duration and max intensity. I think we’re both using Kessil 360’s. I’m working on an algae issue. Appreciate any insight!
Currently on default
Once I clean and put my fx6 back under the aquarium I refill the fx6 using the gravel vacuum hose to fill It backup from the tank that would eliminate you carrying the heavy filter back inside then I fill the tank up from the tap putting conditioner and adjusting the temperature works for me never had an issue
I really like your hose upgrades you did on that FX6, what fittings are those? I found out the hard way that those hoses were specialty size and almost flooded my turtle room xD
I have a turtles, I also, switched out the hoses on the fx6. I use 1" ID hoses which are larger and allow for more flow. You need to put hose clamps (real metal ones, not those crappy plastic ones a lot of filters come with) on the connection to the filter and it will form an air tight seal.
I didn't trust the hoses that came with the FX6, heard a lot of horror stories of the plastic stretching and cracking. Ended up ordering food grade reinforced hoses at 1" ID. (Basically the same kind of hoses used for soda machines.)
Great video and details on the Fluval! What type of heater is that you had in the replenishment water? I dont recall finding any with a digital readout of the temp?
Also, what heater do you use on your discuss tank?
Currently a hygger 1000w on the tank. Amazon has alot of heaters and plenty have digital display , if you seek you shall find
@@hugheymorrow Thanks David, I have been searching but did not find one that looked like yours in the garbage can. However I did find an offbrand that I am not sure I trust. I have had so many heater failures lately so looking for something reliable and experiences with those with delicate fish temps such as Discus.
I can not find a 1000w Hygger. So far, can find the 800w. I currently have 2-300w heaters on my 125 gallon tank.
Robh - I'm not a pro at this by any means. I got into the hobby just recently after getting married to take over my wife's 75 gallon fish tank to recover it as she had been struggling with it for years. I put an eheim heater in it. It's not digital but it is German made and very robust. They don't make a 1000 watt heater though. Their's go up to 300 but can do a tank up to 264 gallons (1000 liters). Mine has been a complete champ! Heats very well. It has a dial to set the temperature but I use a tank thermometer to regulate the temp. I have the heater set at 72 but the thermometer reads 80°. I prefer 80° for some of the fish that we have in the tank. Very good heater though. Don't do like I did! I bought mine at a fish store for about $100!!! The guy sold me on the German made fully submersible product. I was just looking it up for this comment right now and found them on chewy wayyyy cheaper! I have the 200 watt and it's the same price as the 300 watt - $35. Wish I would have looked first! I was in the store though and in need of a heater and didn't think I'd be getting ripped off that badly! I'll think twice before buying anything from there again. Like I said, I'm new and apparently ignorant to prices lol.
@Will Dennis the best way to look at it ? The local shops in the future will be few & far between because they have been losing more business to the online industry, and the only way they can make it is to have some good fish and expensive items. It's just like over tipping the pizza guy 🐠🍕
Great vid
What media are you using in the centers of the trays? I couldn't quite make it out. Thanks
MarinePure on top two, Seachem matrix on bottom
Any sound will be there, when filter will work?
Hows the discus aquarium going?
Sold it, had to move. Just running a little beta nano at the moment.
Hello David. What is that huge media I see in the market? ANd thanks for this video.
MarinePure Ceramic Biomedia 1 1/2” Spheres
@@hugheymorrow Are they better than Matrix from Seachem?
@@josejavierperez1 I use both in the same canister.
@@hugheymorrow Nice! Thanks again!
I have a pre-filter on my fx5/fx6, clean them annually, works great.
What pre filter are you using? Been trying to find one for my fx6.
@@W.Dennis I got a pond filter cube and cut it to fit
So do you have the fx6 plugged in when you turn the nobs open to fill up your tank
Yes I turn it on to refill.
What's the role of the sponge filters on the outside? You don't clean them?
From what I have seen over time, not much gets caught in those... so I guess mostly bio in actuality, though I believe the intention is to capture debris, but 95% of that is in the basket sponges every time I open the thing up.
@@hugheymorrow What would imply that the sponges in the outer circle are a waste of space (and money)?. Pondguru has the media denser packed (his famous black-blue bubble foams, ua-cam.com/video/yrOqfXG2nL0/v-deo.html). What I could imagine is vertically stacked coarse -> denser medium in the outer ring before it hits the central canister where the water goes down. Unfortunately there is no single good drawing that shows how the water flow goes exactly. Some diagrams suggest the water actually can flow in between the sponge layer and the canister wall, and the sponge layer and the inner canister (which would explain your observation, and the clean sponge in this video)
I'm ever more leaning towards a traditional canister filter with all the bio material, and a booster as mechanical pre-filter. I'm very unlikely to buy an FX6 without having my hands on it :-(
@@andreasheiner3426 yeah I did the pondguru course/medium foam on this but don't think it really matters.
@@hugheymorrow Thank you for saving me 300€ (ex filter material ;-)
When you filled your tank using the fx6 I noticed you turned both in/out valves on. I'll be getting my fx6 today but have been doing a lot of research hence this video. I have learned that when you use the fluval gravel vac that is compatible with the fx6 you turn the in valve off and the out valve on. The water goes through the gravel vac down to the pump valve on the bottom of the tank (as you have it setup for filling) and back through the outtake and into the tank. Wouldn't this be the same concept when filling from your garbage can? I feel like if you closed the intake valve you'd get better suction out of your garbage can and fill faster. The way you have it setup you're sucking from the tank and the garbage can. At least this is how I see it. If you have any advice as to how this method you're using is more beneficial I'd appreciate it.
I simply like running the filter intake while filling the tank. Keeps debris cleared up sooner when stuff is release from the outflow and also keeps water cycling through the canister. Personal preference, not a critical thing, no big deal, whatever you prefer.
@@hugheymorrow Sounds like a legit reason. I have always siphoned the substrate and while doing so it removes water. I siphon out a little over 30%. 75 gallon tank I siphon out 4 five gallon buckets. Two birds one stone. Clean and water change. I just got my fx6 setup and running just a few minutes ago and will be using the fluval vac that attaches to the canister. That doesn't remove the water (genius idea!) and then I'll drain the tank from the canister and refill it with your method.
@Will Dennis Yeah I agree with you and going back to 2002 was the first time I bought the Marineland pro cannister filter which came with the gravel vac and it worked similar to Fluvals FX 4,5,6 albeit a 1/10th of the size and since I started keeping fish in the last 4 years I have totally forgotten about the old 350 pro and I think I will be buying the FX 4 & the gravel cleaning accessories for my 75 and 40 breeder .Just to use for the extra time to get 1 side really good and a month or so doing the other side and the Python weekly as always. Memories of maintenance!!!
great explanation of everything you did. i have always had the question that I see most ppl do, but haven't ever done it myself. Why rinse in tank water vs tap water? Most ppl say its to keep the media rinsed in the water it came from. My question is why? I am by no means a noob just to clear that question. I currently have a 300g fresh water with a aquadecor background and a 100g sump for African Cichlids (mbuna to be specific). Now if 99% of the Beneficial bacteria is in the media, substrate, plants and decor, whats the point of rinsing in tank water if it hold little to no bacteria. Only thing I can come up with is that the possible contamination of something in the tap water to offset the tank itself. I have always rinsed in a bathtub or use a pressure washer outside. If you could offer some of your insight and how and why would be great. Thanks again bro
A primary concernnis chlorine killing bacteria. Also yeah you never know, algae can be in tap. Primary concern is chlorine though.
Beneficial bacteria is very sensitive to any kind of rapid or extreme changes. There is different types of bacteria within your bacterial colony; and thus, when you perform maintenance this is the concern. If your not careful you can kill the colony with a small chlorine spike, or an extreme swing in water temperature; due to oxygen concentration within your water column. About the only bacteria that wouldn’t be affected by an oxygen deprivation would be your anaerobic bacteria which is the one who consumes your nitrates and completes your cycle. It seems like a nuisance when performing maintenance, but it’s that colony of bacteria that keeps all living organism healthy and thriving within our tanks. And that is the why for the attention to these minute details.
Respectfully,
Carlos A. González Sr.
@@Backblast72 i agree about the BB but again what does rinsing out your sponges and media in tank water benefit? Im not arguing, just a great conversation piece. I understand the RODI thought as it should have the smallest amount of any trace element but some still in the water column. But if the majority of your aerobic and anaerobic bacteria is also attached to everything in the tank.......I just have never had an issue with tap water and tend to let nature take its course. I see far more tanks crash because ppl continue to fiddle with this or that. Thanks for the reply from you and the David
@@sgtbehrens yeah man I rinse all my filter first in tank water then in tap water every time no issues at all. Some guy pulled the scientific data on it and it showed that it would take hours of sitting in tap water for it to do anything to the bacteria. I just feel like it comes out so fresh with that rinse in tap.
First of all why fire so long without cleaning and why not rinse all the sponges? Just cause you can go that long doesn't mean you should. It's absolutely a myth that you can't rinse your sponges in tap water. It takes an hour forty-five minutes for the concentration of chlorine in tap water to kill your beneficial bacteria. When you only rinse for about a minute tops nothing to worry about. Also you lose more bacteria in all the crap that comes out of your sponges than tap water or exposing them to air would ever kill. Unless you left them out to dry obviously. Last but not least anaerobic bacteria convert nitrate back to nitrite then back to ammonia. Nobody tells people this. So the top inch or so of your substrate that gets enough oxygen to support beneficial bacteria is not only working on every thing in the water column but it's also working on everything from below and it all ends up back to nitrate. Best thing you can do is have shallow substrate or an under gravel filter to get oxygen all the way through. Plants only use trace amounts of nitrate so they don't lower nitrate by consuming it. They lower nitrate because they consume ammonia so nitrate isn't made in the first place. Best thing you can do is keep your substrate clean and your filters clean. Personally I clean filters once a month doesn't matter if it's an fx6, 304b, aquaclear 110, Tidal 110. I use all of these. Some of my hob's I clean weekly because I use them for polishing only.
Hey, you never cleaned the side sponges. Nobody caught it but I did lol
"All the other foam and media were actually fine!" was printed on the screen since it wasn't necessary.
You have the blue and black pads backwards according to pimp my filter
Yeah the foams I have are different. I actually reverted back to Fluval foam anyways.
Hard to do living in an apartment on the 4th floor
i waited 14 months before cleaning my fx6 for the first time wasnt really dirty
Yeah I think the main thing is if you have a fine filter pad it gets mucked up. I never really see much elsewhere.
How big is your tank
4'x2'x2', 120 gallons
You need to reverse your blue and black foam filters on the side. Black is course and blue is a finer foam filter. Water flows through them from outside in and then up to the top. Plus the length of each need to be all the way to each edge with no gaps. This may be why they were not as dirty.
in this case the blue is more course, depends on manufacturer, but regardless I have gone back to the Fluval foam because it works better
4:24 haha, that background squeak.
Get a eheim pre filter. It’s much cleaner inside then
Cool product. Do you think it would potentially restrict the flow with the smaller internal diameter and put a strain on the fx6 motor?
@@hugheymorrow no it fits perfectly. Mines been on over a year
Its not cleaning a filter but just dumping it only in water, lol
Lol
This video makes me want to never have an aquarium. There has to be an easier way than this good grief
Many options out there.