@Castle Hives Glad you enjoyed it, Brian! If you go back to some of my really early video the camera made a clicking noise when focusing, it sucked! lol So glad to have grown from where I started and now have GoPro's. Yes, this video is BL (before Ladybug), 😂 that mean my old boy Angus was still alive. Miss that ole boy!
Awesome man. I needed simple for this task, and I’m running late on getting to them…I should’ve been feeding for past month probably, but farm upkeep and working job has kept me from it. Hopefully I don’t freeze em out opening them up in this cold. Thanks
Perfect. I needed a fast easy way to feed my Bees dry sugar. and I have a perfect 2 inch high shim that my sweet husband made for me one morning while I slept. I will put the newspaper & the shim above my inner cover with the hole...under the roof...and viola...Dry sugar feeding & NO robbing. ;) Thank You for your video Jason
Are there any problems with using mountain camp method/dry sugar in spring? I ask this because almost all the dry sugar feeding videos are talking about surviving/preparing/getting ready for winter. Maybe there's some detail here I've missed. You seem to be one of the few talking about using it in spring. So I thought I'd ask to see if I missed something about this. Thanks.
hi! Jason I am located at Latitude 33°51'32.18"N, Longitude 73° 45'34.93"E and an Elevation of 5374 feet.This is going to be my frist time winterizing bees in our cold winters.I am planning to overwinter them in single brood chamber with no supers but lots of stores in brood chamber and super alert to feed dry sugar(like you demonstrated in this video)if they seem to get low on stores.Winters start here from mid october and last till mid march.what are your thoughts???
I am a beginner beekeeper in Utah: I continue feeding with sugar 2:1 or 1:1 water the whole winter because bees are indoors around 60-70F, and they go outside through a clear tube in the daytime when it is sunny or warm enough to let them do that. Should I continue feeding with sugar water, or would candies/patties be better? Because of freezing outdoors , 99% of the bees are freezing, and not returning to the hive. So, I am picking up hundreds of bees from the snow, and keeping them indoors inside of a container. After a short period of time, I see 80-90% of frozen bees recovering and moving around. At that point, I put them back in the hive. Is that correct? One opinion is that old or sick bees are going out to die anyway, but most of them seem like young bees. Should I continue collecting them? Or do you think they might not be returning because they are intentionally going out to die?
This time of year you should not be feeding the syrup. That should of stopped a couple months ago. I would switch feeds. Are your bees in an observation hive? It surely sounds like it. I would not be picking up dead bees. With you feeding syrup they are probably having troubles and they need to releave themselves. I would switch to candy boards.
@@JCsBees Thank you for the advice of feeding the hive candy boards. They are indoors with temperatures around 60-70 degrees, but in standard hive boxes.
@@radheshyama1135 Hello, why do not you buy a rabbit. You can keep him at home all year and feed him. Bees at this time should do what they should do! Nothing. You confuse them. You give them syrup and they think the flowers bloom. They leave the hive just to freeze. I'm sorry but they will not see spring. Buy a rabbit.
I got a few container lids inside the hive, but on top of the second hive box. I put sugar water into the lids 1 to 2 times a day because they do not have any honey nor syrup stored up and every time I feed them about 6 oz of sugar water they get so exited that they come outside and swarm around the hive. Looks like the whole hive is swarming. Is this normal ? I am working to get a internal top hive feeder in the hope that the bees stop to swarm since they would have constant supply. The bees bring in plenty of pollen.
That addition of the deep seem like a lot of excess space. It apparently is working for you. We use a 3" feeder shim for this method. Good video thanks for sharing.
@@gregwaskom552 which in turns heats the hives...too much room isn't good,my hives feel like heaters when I open them,it is a good way to kill a small hive,they can't break cluster
The bees dont heat the air of the hive, they heat the cluster. Kept bees in subzero temps in alaska. The main thing is to provide ventilation, but protection from wind so the bees can control the flow of air and moisture. In winter, cold is not a problem, moisture is. When testing over the winter I found the box air around the cluster matched ambient outdoor temps (below zero) while the cluster stayed a nice toasty 85-90. www.beepods.com/honey-bees-survive-winter-regulating-temperature-cluster/
@@Pariatical like said above. The by product of heating the cluster it heat the hive. If they just heated the cluster, they would love on the outside of trees and cliffs in the open like other species of bees. I hate it when people correct other people about bees heating the hive. So, do the bees just cool the cluster or the hive.
"Honey bees make no attempt to maintain the temperature in the domicile outside the winter cluster. The temperature within the cluster itself varies. Warmer bees from the inside of the cluster continually change places with the colder bees along the outer edge of the cluster to allow the colder bees to warm up."
for this reason you should also never HEAT your syrup while the sugar is in it to help it dissolve, you can heat the water first, then add the sugar away from heat tho. That wont caramelize the sugar, but if you put the sugar in and THEN heat it, the stuff that is at the bottom may caramelize a bit before dissolving and cause not only a health problem, but a HUGE nasty mess if they get dysentery
I prefer my hives be in full sun, it allows more bees to fly as the bees are not then needed to keep the brood warm. It also help keep hive beetles counts down. The down side is I have to work them in full sun and it get very hot.
Hello Jason, been watching your videos for a couple of years now. Thank you so much for your commitment making these videos. That being said, I have never seen anyone feeding back the bees very own power food...honey. Is there a reason for it? Where I live, I get a lot of canola in my honey because I have a canola field always close to my hives. This makes my honey go rock solid ones it is crystallised, which happen to be already after three weeks. My idea was to put a empty super on the hives after I unwrap them (maybe last week of April or first week of May) and put a 3kg bucket of honey up side down onto the inner cover which has a hole in it. Then cover the pale in the empty super with the telescopic cover. Thanks again. Cheers from a fellow Canadian Beekeeper
The reason not too many people feed back honey is the cost. It's way cheaper to feed sugar syrup and sell the honey. One thing you never want to do is feed store honey or honey from an unknown colony. You can add some serious problems if the source was infected with something. I have feed my own honey back to my bees many times but it's usually just setting out buckets that need cleaned or like you said, crystallized honey. I just purchased some Ultra Bee dry pollen substitute and was reading the label on the bucket. I noticed it had essential Canola oil in it along with lemongrass. The Canola oil surprised me though, now I am curious what that oils benefit is to the bees? I can see the pollen being helpful but oil? That has me puzzled.....Have you notice any benefits to the Canola beside the obvious (nectar/ pollen)?
So canola oil as in a carrier oil which probably is in your product, is rich in minerals and vitamins and high in GLA acids which is an omega 6 fatty acid and has an impressive set of disease fighting powers. So I can totally see why it is in that product. The only problem I see in the canola the bees harvest is that it is GMO and yes the crystallization of all my honey. Besides that...I have a very good honey harvest.
When is a good time to do cutouts if you are trying to keep the bees for yourself. I found a hive in a old shed and I want to try to keep them. Any tips on that and also another question I've looked for and can't find an answer to, will they make a queen year around of they lose one or if she died? Thanks for the great videos they are very informative for new keepers
I guess my first question is, where are you located? That is gonna be your deciding point as to when to do the removal. As far as they queen, I am in Ohio and here they will not raise queens year around. So it's really based off your location also. I have never heard of a queen dying during the winter months unless the whole colony died.
I would wait for a good Spring day to do removal. That is your best bet. Then at least there will be queen on the market for sale if you did not want to raise one. If they do not have eggs, they will not be able to raise their own. Good Luck!
I feed them until they have a nectar source, like dandelions. Once I notice the flow is about to start, I add supers but only if the colony is full of bees. If it's a weak colony they probably will not make it up to the supers this early in the game.
Is White Satin Powdered Amalgamated Sugar made from beets OK to feed bees? Also, is “Brown” Zulka Morena Pure Cane Sugar OK to feed bees? www.honeybeesuite.com/is-organic-sugar-better-for-bees/ “Brown” sugar is bad for bees because it is made by taking refined white sugar and adding molasses back into it-and it’s the molasses part that contains all the solids. The ash content of brown sugar will vary depending on how much molasses is added, but molasses runs from 5 to 9% ash
Sugar Feed for Honey Bees is unhealthy & exhaustive for bees, as the sugar hypes bees up & the energy gained dissipates quickly from sugar diet & bees May develop exhaustion & ill health. It makes them vulnerable to diseases & ultimately they produce less honey. Thanks for your contribution though. I find the various methods of Bee keeping fascinating!
I enjoy watching some of these videos from a few years back. Straight business in this video, and no Ladybug. .
@Castle Hives Glad you enjoyed it, Brian! If you go back to some of my really early video the camera made a clicking noise when focusing, it sucked! lol So glad to have grown from where I started and now have GoPro's. Yes, this video is BL (before Ladybug), 😂 that mean my old boy Angus was still alive. Miss that ole boy!
Awesome man. I needed simple for this task, and I’m running late on getting to them…I should’ve been feeding for past month probably, but farm upkeep and working job has kept me from it. Hopefully I don’t freeze em out opening them up in this cold. Thanks
You got this!
Perfect. I needed a fast easy way to feed my Bees dry sugar. and I have a perfect 2 inch high shim that my sweet husband made for me one morning while I slept. I will put the newspaper & the shim above my inner cover with the hole...under the roof...and viola...Dry sugar feeding & NO robbing. ;) Thank You for your video Jason
Glad I was of help. Good luck with your bees!
Thnx! And Happiness with Bees too
Here in florida, the ants and other pests are more attracted to my hives if I feed dry sugar but happy that it works for you in ohio
Never gave that a thought but it makes since now that you mention it.
Yes. Makes sense. Thanks for reply.
Love your style brother!👍👍
Do you still use this method?
Can you offer this to wild hives if you find them and they’re struggling
Its better to use a med box instead of the deep.
If the bees went into winter with plenty of stores, enough that there's some left over when spring comes, it isn't necessary to feed them, right?
Are there any problems with using mountain camp method/dry sugar in spring? I ask this because almost all the dry sugar feeding videos are talking about surviving/preparing/getting ready for winter. Maybe there's some detail here I've missed.
You seem to be one of the few talking about using it in spring. So I thought I'd ask to see if I missed something about this.
Thanks.
hi! Jason
I am located at Latitude 33°51'32.18"N, Longitude 73° 45'34.93"E and an Elevation of 5374 feet.This is going to be my frist time winterizing bees in our cold winters.I am planning to overwinter them in single brood chamber with no supers but lots of stores in brood chamber and super alert to feed dry sugar(like you demonstrated in this video)if they seem to get low on stores.Winters start here from mid october and last till mid march.what are your thoughts???
I am a beginner beekeeper in Utah: I continue feeding with sugar
2:1 or 1:1 water the whole winter because bees are indoors around 60-70F, and they
go outside through a clear tube in the daytime when it is sunny or warm enough
to let them do that. Should I continue feeding with sugar water, or would
candies/patties be better?
Because of freezing outdoors , 99% of the bees are freezing,
and not returning to the hive. So, I am picking up hundreds of bees from the snow,
and keeping them indoors inside of a container. After a short period of time, I
see 80-90% of frozen bees recovering and moving around. At that point, I put
them back in the hive. Is that correct? One opinion is that old or sick bees
are going out to die anyway, but most of them seem like young bees. Should I
continue collecting them? Or do you think they might not be returning because
they are intentionally going out to die?
This time of year you should not be feeding the syrup. That should of stopped a couple months ago. I would switch feeds. Are your bees in an observation hive? It surely sounds like it.
I would not be picking up dead bees. With you feeding syrup they are probably having troubles and they need to releave themselves. I would switch to candy boards.
@@JCsBees Thank you for the advice of feeding the hive candy boards. They are indoors with temperatures around 60-70 degrees, but in standard hive boxes.
@@radheshyama1135 Hello, why do not you buy a rabbit. You can keep him at home all year and feed him. Bees at this time should do what they should do! Nothing. You confuse them. You give them syrup and they think the flowers bloom. They leave the hive just to freeze. I'm sorry but they will not see spring. Buy a rabbit.
Isn't it unhealthy to feed bees sugar instead of the bee relying on pollen?
Btw I'm no "bee expert" 😂
If I put this on the hive and the bees don't take it, is that a good indication they still have plenty of stored honey to use?
Yes.
I got a few container lids inside the hive, but on top of the second hive box.
I put sugar water into the lids 1 to 2 times a day because they do not have any honey nor syrup stored up and every time I feed them about 6 oz of sugar water they get so exited that they come outside and swarm around the hive. Looks like the whole hive is swarming.
Is this normal ?
I am working to get a internal top hive feeder in the hope that the bees stop to swarm since they would have constant supply.
The bees bring in plenty of pollen.
Have you ever had the problem of bees dumping the sugar outside the hive.
Will sugar affect the honey's taste?
The mountain camp method is only used when there is no nectar flow therefore the bees are not producing honey.
That addition of the deep seem like a lot of excess space. It apparently is working for you. We use a 3" feeder shim for this method. Good video thanks for sharing.
Yes, I agree a deep is a bit extreme for a spacer but when your out of shims you have to compromise, right? Glad you enjoyed it!
Оставляйте не менее 2 килограмм меда на улочку пчел в зиму и не надо кормить сахаром)
Great method but I think maybe using a "eke"ight be better, they won't have to heat that empty super.
The bees heat the cluster not the hive
@@gregwaskom552 which in turns heats the hives...too much room isn't good,my hives feel like heaters when I open them,it is a good way to kill a small hive,they can't break cluster
The bees dont heat the air of the hive, they heat the cluster. Kept bees in subzero temps in alaska. The main thing is to provide ventilation, but protection from wind so the bees can control the flow of air and moisture. In winter, cold is not a problem, moisture is. When testing over the winter I found the box air around the cluster matched ambient outdoor temps (below zero) while the cluster stayed a nice toasty 85-90. www.beepods.com/honey-bees-survive-winter-regulating-temperature-cluster/
@@Pariatical like said above.
The by product of heating the cluster it heat the hive.
If they just heated the cluster, they would love on the outside of trees and cliffs in the open like other species of bees.
I hate it when people correct other people about bees heating the hive.
So, do the bees just cool the cluster or the hive.
"Honey bees make no attempt to maintain the temperature in the domicile outside the winter cluster. The temperature within the cluster itself varies. Warmer bees from the inside of the cluster continually change places with the colder bees along the outer edge of the cluster to allow the colder bees to warm up."
I have a question about feeding, we had our honey bottling tank malfunction and burnt the honey.
Can I feed it back to the bees.
Thanks
Shouldnt feed burnt sugar/honey to bees, the carmelized sugars cause dysentery. Maybe make some mead?
for this reason you should also never HEAT your syrup while the sugar is in it to help it dissolve, you can heat the water first, then add the sugar away from heat tho. That wont caramelize the sugar, but if you put the sugar in and THEN heat it, the stuff that is at the bottom may caramelize a bit before dissolving and cause not only a health problem, but a HUGE nasty mess if they get dysentery
Could you just pour the sugar on the inner cover and put a couple of inch spacer on and then the top?
I wouldn't! I would be afraid the inner cover would not let all the moisture escape or collect in sugar. Does that makes since?
Robber bees shouldnt get in your hive if you have a lid on? Not sure why the screen is nessesary.
I see your hives are located in the open, are they able to be steady in the sunshine??
I prefer my hives be in full sun, it allows more bees to fly as the bees are not then needed to keep the brood warm. It also help keep hive beetles counts down. The down side is I have to work them in full sun and it get very hot.
🇹🇷👍
Hello Jason, been watching your videos for a couple of years now. Thank you so much for your commitment making these videos. That being said, I have never seen anyone feeding back the bees very own power food...honey. Is there a reason for it? Where I live, I get a lot of canola in my honey because I have a canola field always close to my hives. This makes my honey go rock solid ones it is crystallised, which happen to be already after three weeks. My idea was to put a empty super on the hives after I unwrap them (maybe last week of April or first week of May) and put a 3kg bucket of honey up side down onto the inner cover which has a hole in it. Then cover the pale in the empty super with the telescopic cover.
Thanks again.
Cheers from a fellow Canadian Beekeeper
The reason not too many people feed back honey is the cost. It's way cheaper to feed sugar syrup and sell the honey. One thing you never want to do is feed store honey or honey from an unknown colony. You can add some serious problems if the source was infected with something.
I have feed my own honey back to my bees many times but it's usually just setting out buckets that need cleaned or like you said, crystallized honey.
I just purchased some Ultra Bee dry pollen substitute and was reading the label on the bucket. I noticed it had essential Canola oil in it along with lemongrass. The Canola oil surprised me though, now I am curious what that oils benefit is to the bees? I can see the pollen being helpful but oil? That has me puzzled.....Have you notice any benefits to the Canola beside the obvious (nectar/ pollen)?
So canola oil as in a carrier oil which probably is in your product, is rich in minerals and vitamins and high in GLA acids which is an omega 6 fatty acid and has an impressive set of disease fighting powers. So I can totally see why it is in that product. The only problem I see in the canola the bees harvest is that it is GMO and yes the crystallization of all my honey. Besides that...I have a very good honey harvest.
Ah, that makes sense. You seem to know a good bit about it. Thanks for filling me in and good luck with the bees!
سلام در صورت امکان گفتار انگلیسی را ترجمه کنیدتابیشترین استفاده راببریم
🐝🐝🐝
When is a good time to do cutouts if you are trying to keep the bees for yourself. I found a hive in a old shed and I want to try to keep them. Any tips on that and also another question I've looked for and can't find an answer to, will they make a queen year around of they lose one or if she died? Thanks for the great videos they are very informative for new keepers
I guess my first question is, where are you located? That is gonna be your deciding point as to when to do the removal.
As far as they queen, I am in Ohio and here they will not raise queens year around. So it's really based off your location also. I have never heard of a queen dying during the winter months unless the whole colony died.
Jason Chrisman
I'm in eastern oklahoma. I was just concerned about doing cutout, not finding the Queen and them all dying
I would wait for a good Spring day to do removal. That is your best bet. Then at least there will be queen on the market for sale if you did not want to raise one. If they do not have eggs, they will not be able to raise their own. Good Luck!
Never knew they could print it out and send it to you. Thanks so much for the tip! thumbs up
Yes, the printing feature is pretty cool. You can even design your own book cover so you could put your logo on it. Thanks for watching.
How long do you feed them? And when do you put honey supers on? By the way, I'm in California.
Thanks so much.
I feed them until they have a nectar source, like dandelions. Once I notice the flow is about to start, I add supers but only if the colony is full of bees. If it's a weak colony they probably will not make it up to the supers this early in the game.
Jason Chrisman thank you for the advice.
Is White Satin Powdered Amalgamated Sugar made from beets OK to feed bees? Also, is “Brown” Zulka Morena Pure Cane Sugar OK to feed bees? www.honeybeesuite.com/is-organic-sugar-better-for-bees/ “Brown” sugar is bad for bees because it is made by taking refined white sugar and adding molasses back into it-and it’s the molasses part that contains all the solids. The ash content of brown sugar will vary depending on how much molasses is added, but molasses runs from 5 to 9% ash
Sugar Feed for Honey Bees is unhealthy & exhaustive for bees, as the sugar hypes bees up & the energy gained dissipates quickly from sugar diet & bees May develop exhaustion & ill health. It makes them vulnerable to diseases & ultimately they produce less honey. Thanks for your contribution though. I find the various methods of Bee keeping fascinating!
Agreed, definately takes more energy from the bees to make the sugar usable.
Where the insects
Mother
Need to connect with nature