Why do I find these videos so entertaining? Keep up the great work. Clear, concise, no stupid music, and most of all, thanks for not trying to be funny! I just subscribed.
I learned stuff here! Thanks for that. Also, you may consider flipping the sawzall blade when attempting those close in cuts. it'll give a guy more room.
This a video that has info about the rafter tail that i was looking for, I was told that our home has some rot on the rafter tails by a rain gutter installer, I saw it too, but that it might be okay just to leave it and replace the fascia, I believe that it should be replaced now before installing anything else and obviously it will be additional cost added to rain gutter installation. I would have liked to see underneath where the rafters are, and also a finished job. Thank you I really liked your video, and will check out your other videos.
sawsall tip: put the blade in upside down, teeth toward the top of the machine. you have to use the sawsall upside down, or in this application right side up. you can get much closer cutting angle this way.
@@everettwhite9874 I usually use a bitumen based brush on sealer. And when building a deck within a metre of the ground I seal the entire subframe before laying the floor .
@@Brandon-no3vc It's sounded like there was no facia board. That would be most of the issue, gutter apron Shou have also been installed over the facia board to protect from water getting behind the gutter.
Always ready to learn. Great tips. I really like the idea of starting from the middle. And, now for the gratuitous critique... please wear eye and ear protection.
Hi Daniel, thank you so much for the great video I am in the process of replacing my rafters inside my wanigan and you explained it very well thank you much, I was looking for a good vid to do my job. Again thank you so much and have a fantastic day!
Great video thanks for the info. Maybe I can pay it forward. I actually have that same jigsaw and they actually make a flush cut blade so that you can cut all the way up to the front of the saw, no sawzalll necessary.
I did this exact job 2 years ago, I didn't find anything as helpful as this would have been. I had to make it up as I went. Wish I would have seen this first!
I had a similar situation with an old house where the original part had fascias that angled back, and an addition had plumb fascias. I decided to straighten the angled ones to match. This is not an open eave as in the video, but a completely closed one. I decided I didn't what the hassle of trimming the rafter tails with the roof decking in the way, so I did 2x4 blocking between them to create a subfascia. Each subascia block has short 2x4 legs screwed on either side that run parallel to the rafters, and I screw those legs into the rafters. I decided on the legs because it makes it easy for me to get the blocking in the perfect position before screwing it in. Then I put my fascia over all of that. Sounds like a lot of work, but it goes quickly. I've never seen anyone do this, but a year later it is still good. Does anyone actually use this method?
You just reminded me of how, many mid century modern homes had fascias that sloped back, meaning the rafter tails were a square cut. These fascias are usually raised above the roof line and were done that way to form a "swale" out of the roofing that acted like a gutter. In any case haven't done exactly what your describing, but sounds like its strong and minimally evasive. It seems like you thought this technique through before starting, and that's whats most important.
Great work ! A true Craftsman, probably one of the last expert carpenter. You remind me of the 2 Craftsman that built our Bungalow with rafter tails and giant fly rafters too.
How did you get rid of that gap at the top of the fascia in the middle. I'm replacing my fascia and soffit on a 33' run on the side of my house and the ends are 1 to 1 1/2" lower than the middle. I was planning on measuring and trimming the top edge of the fascia so the bottom edge stays straight. Any suggestions. Thank you Daniel. I'm 70 and could use any advice you would be willing to share.
Why does my house rafters have separate pieces of wood nailed to the end, functioning as rafter tails instead of just rafters that extend the entire way down? Is there any benefit to separate rafter tails?
Nice video.. let me throw out a question.. My neighbor's tree fell on the corner of my garage snapping off the 1st 3 rafters right at the headerboard... I imagine the easiest thing to do is to scab a 2 by 8 from the inside of my shop so that it's level with the rest of the rafters.. Is this what you guys would do? I also realize now that the 1st 3 rafters will be an 1.75" offset from the center of where the broken ones were. is that really an issue?
Dealing with rot on the rafter tails myself. I’m not a carpenter, but can someone explain why gutter screws install right into them. I would think you screw another 2x4 right next to the rafter tails and attach the gutters to these. That way you can maybe avoid the eventual rot from the screws going into the end of a piece of wood that is not easily replaced and into one that is.
Absolutely fantastic character, camera presence and execution of your master craft. Well done! Although, I would have liked to see some Hilti tools ;) Thank you for sharing.
I have an open beam ceiling with 10X4 rafter beams that pass through the exterior wall out to the lanai by the pool where the tails are rotted and sitting on a 12X4 support beam that runs 36 feet. So there are 5 rafter beams that need the ends replaced, and the entire support beam under them has to be replaced. Currently it is solid cypress but contractors have said stacking 2X4 boards can substitute for a solid beam, and I don't like that idea but given the expense and difficulty getting beams now may have to go that route. My question is how do you replace the last 1 or 2 feet of a major structural beam like my rafters are? Tearing the roof off to get at the tails is not practical, for one thing the solar pool heater is up there. The roof is a type of construction I have never seen before, the house is what is called semi monitor with clearstory windows, and 18.5 foot high ceiling in the living room. I have one estimate of $29 thousand and that seems pretty high. Covid meant nobody working here all of last year, so it is pretty much getting to the emergency state. May have to pay it. County regulations mean I pretty much can't do it myself or hire handyman type carpenters. Also will need engineered drawings as the county did not see fit to retain the original blueprints even though it was an architect designed house. Getting an engineer to do them will be a problem. I had one here who thought cypress was strictly decorative; he was from New England and was thinking of pecky cypress which is not structural. But cypress is a fine choice in this climate, it is oily and strong, also much cheaper than cedar or pine. Any ideas on how best to replace these tails is appreciated.
I found this pretty confusing probably because I am not a woodworker. How did you get the fascia up higher in the center? Does the fascia lift the ends up or did you shape the fascia? There were no images at the end and “starting in the middle” seemed impossible…does the wood bend up? Concave in what dimension?
Quick question what do you use to cover those screw holes before painting the fascia. Would you use caulk or a would filler? What will last the longest?
Nice video and good work habits save eye protection...just takes one slip. No doubt you are booked up for work for the next 100 years in Seattle. Do well.
Maybe dumb question but you cut off 3" of rafter You don't replace that. Now the ends won't match to th3 other side end. End of video th3 fascia from the other side is sticking out past the side you repaired.
great stuff......that's the way i work quality workmanship.....takes a little longer ....but at least you know when you leave the peoples house it was done the only way you know how...the right way
Why did this rad kook screw so croocked into the rafter boards. You could have used a 2x4 bottom sits flush to bottom of rafter. I put a 12 ft 2x6 up myself on 2nd floor home. Nail 2x4 block extending out past bottom rafter for facia to rest on so you can nail/screw it into rafter
wait but putting it that way and using that size wood creates problems, one well now it does not match the sides left and right 2x4s that you can see stick out like a sore thumb and even if you cut those to match the length now they are still lower than the front one that you just put so it dont match also, why did you not just use 2x6 so that the front one goes down further in with and match the side ones and all you had to do is cut the sides in length but will match them now?
This is really a matter of balancing the situation with your end goal. If you have a wide overhang with minimal decay on the rafter tails, you can likely trim them back and still be just fine. If you currently have minimal overhang with significant decay, you might consider trimming back the tails to solid wood, then "sistering" another piece of lumber to keep the amount of overhang you have. These decisions are also impacted depending on whether you are just making repairs, or if the work is part of a re-roof project.
Good Call! Yes that can be done. I've used the opposite tension in the crown of lumber especially with fir or framing material as it has more structural strength than cedar. Great question.
When it sags on both ends, how can you make it straight? Trim more both ends ? My rafters are not even, some are more than 1.5 " so there is a 1/4 to 1/2" gap between the facia board and the rafter tails, if i trim them even using the biggest gap (1/2") as a guide, the roof will protrude 1/2" inch after the gutter be installed, what do you suggest i should do?
Does your house have soffits? If so, you could just use some 1/2 inch plywood to shim at every rafter tail. The soffit would hide the shimming. Be sure to use 1/2 inch longer nails.
seems like the point here is to use straight lumber and let the new lumber straighten the roof line as it should be. Making something match what is sagging doesn't make sense.
My man looking how he time traveled from the great depression era. Just kidding.. Nice video, my mom's house has gotten bad water damage from a shitty install drip edge or something and the facia* and rafter tails are rotted.. Its soo bad the damage has come inside and her drywall on her ceiling is cracking and starting to come down.. I have to tools and some know how but I told her to may have to replace the whole rafter and take down the ceiling to access it.. You can even attach a new facia* to the rafter because the exposed rafters are soo old and rotted.. Someone quoted her $1,800 just to fix the drywall on the ceiling ect not including replacing the rafter,facia* and installin a new drip edge. I need all the youtube knowledge I can get.
We are using an S4S cedar. That is smooth four sides. Cedar, is the best for exterior applications. If there is a chance to be exposed to the elements, especially in Seattle, I would not recommend using a softwood like pine, or hemlock on exterior surfaces even if it is pre primed material. You can get a pre primed tight knot cedar, from Dunn Lumber. Does this help?
T Willey. Rot, dry rot, and wood rot are common terms. They are brought about by any one of several possible living "Wood Fungus" varieties. The fungus lives by eating or consuming the wood. To properly repair "rot", the infected wood has to be cut out or chemically treated to remove or kill the fungus. To properly repair a rafter tail the rot needs to be mitigated, usually by cutting the affected area off down to "good" wood and adding, or "scabbing", a new piece of wood cut at the proper angle on the end. If the "scab" piece is to run out to the end of the "scabbed" rafter tail piece the end of it should also be angled. The end the "scab" piece should always be on the "inside" of the rafter tail where it would be less noticeable if visible at all. I hope that this helps.
@@jimjordan5630 Thats what I was wondering. He said this was an historic house but he changed the architecture by shortening the rafters. In my case I only have about 5 inches of rafter between end and birds mouth. Is that enough room to sister on a new end?
@@lancomedic Without being able to see your "set-up" it's difficult to say. Is there "blocking" along the to rail between rafters? The roof load is transferred to the wall via the bird's-mouth on the top rail but you still have weight of beyond. I don't think that 5 inches would be sufficient. But you can cut your scab piece(s) longer and replicate the birds-mouth so that the top of the scab piece will follow along the top line of the rafter, and then if you had me access to the inside of the article or loft area. Without being able to draw it show a picture of it's difficult for me (in my mind) to articulate what I'm trying to convey. If not, and if the ceiling on the interior in that place, or in those places, is something simple like dry wall one might could simply cut acres the then once the scab is properly attached replace and patch the dry wall ceiling. I hope that this helps.
@@jimjordan5630 Thanks, I was afraid that I would have to go beyond the birds mouth and you confirmed it. I have access to the entire rafter since this is an outbuilding and the rafters are exposed on the inside. Not sure how many are gone till I completely open the soffit. This started as a painting project but now...
Wasn't clear how the gap in the middle run of the facia was eliminated. I assume just pushing up on the gaped section; deflecting the board up is the answer.
Thanks for the video, I have to di just that in the next month or so. Looks like a beaut of a house. Is it Pacific Northwest? It looks like a Vancouver house.
but if you're just putting fascia up on the end of rafters does the fascia need to be that thick? isn't it supposed to be 1", im new to this so im asking as someone who doesn't know
I have been mentally planning to do this hop for a couple weeks now. I have been going though a thought cycle that goes “circular saw? No. Reciprocating saw? No. Oscillating tool? No. Maybe the circular saw? No.” I can’t believe I didn’t think of the jigsaw. Thank you so much for this video!
I believe setting up a guide board under the rafter tails and setting a circular saw to the correct tilt angle would be vastly superior, finishing the last tiny bit of the cut with a hand saw.
The jig saw blade will want to bend in that hard fir. So what I do is clean up the cut with the jigsaw coming from the other side, or use a saws all with a fine tooth blade. Id prefer to use a skill saw, but with a soffit is not as easy, so I try to have a verity of tools available for just about any situation I may run into.
2:20 big miss. It did not fit unless he missed the same on all the tails. I set a angle on my skillsaw so it is the same for all my start cuts. Very poor cutting. Also he needs to snap his chalk line so you know it will not move.
What do you do if the wood rot is deeper than the rafter tail and extends into the say living room ceiling? Can you replace a whole rafter and attach it to the main "arch beam" (forget the proper name) assuming the ceiling is going to be tore out and exposed.
yes of course. Especially if ceiling is tore out, is the time to do it. Then next time you replace the roof, go throw some nails into the roof sheathing where the rafter was replaced so its attached properly again. You could also use some short screws from the underside making sure not to purncture your roofing material.
Hello, I am planning to fit a porch roof to the house, (circa 67 wooden framed) the fascia is narrow in vertical depth and matches the height of the sloped rafter tails. The modern guttering attached to the fascia board covers about 3/4 of the board so there is insufficient room to attach a ledger board through the fascia to the rafter tails. Can I use a deeper fascia board and replace the one on the house in order to give sufficient room to mount the ledger board? Would this be strong enough? If not would it be better to sister some deeper tails to the rafters which would be notched to match the existing rafter but deeper at their ends so I van attach the wider fascia? Thanks
Hi, Allen. I'd have to see your project to really know what your up against, but generally its best to remove the gutter, fascia and soffit, so the rafters are sistered in. Maybe best to also sit the new rafters on the top plates, and that might require removing the blocking between the existing rafters. Ledgering onto the fascia wouldnt be strong enough. The end goal in adding to an existing structure is two fold. Making sure the tie in is, structurally sound and the design is seemless. Does htis help?
Thanks, yes that helps. Looking at the fascia it is only about 20mm thick so it may be covering a thicker board like the one you put on in this video. The way it seems to be done here in New Zealand is the ledger board attaches through the fascia boards and into the ends of the rafter tails with bugle screws to give sufficient strength. I would attach the ledger board under the soffit but can't because the top of the window frames are mounted directly under the soffit edge and so there is no room. This may be negated if I put in new doors as an entrance way, but I fear the underside of the porch or pergola roof will block the view and be probably too low to walk under particularly at the sloped end. I can get about a 2m height if I only slope the roof 5 degrees which is not much. The main roof is only 20 which Is not steep either. It might mean I end up making the roof a stand alone one with its own posts next to the house. Whilst more involved it may be the strongest option. Thanks for you advice.
This is a Craftsman Bungalow, adding fascia over the exposed rafter tails changes the traditional architecture of the home which I think is less appealing.
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Why do I find these videos so entertaining? Keep up the great work. Clear, concise, no stupid music, and most of all, thanks for not trying to be funny! I just subscribed.
I like that you packed all that into just a 5 minute video. Masterful !! That was great. Keep them coming
Great content. I really wish I was taught at a young age to be better with tools and precision cuts. Thanks for this video
I learned stuff here! Thanks for that. Also, you may consider flipping the sawzall blade when attempting those close in cuts. it'll give a guy more room.
This a video that has info about the rafter tail that i was looking for, I was told that our home has some rot on the rafter tails by a rain gutter installer, I saw it too, but that it might be okay just to leave it and replace the fascia, I believe that it should be replaced now before installing anything else and obviously it will be additional cost added to rain gutter installation. I would have liked to see underneath where the rafters are, and also a finished job. Thank you I really liked your video, and will check out your other videos.
Nice job. The Dewalt DT2074QZ jigsaw blade avoids needing the Sawzall to finish the rafter tail cuts - I've found it super handy.
Lovely to see a craftsman so comfortable with his tools
We all need to learn how to repair and build, cool skill sets to have.
sawsall tip: put the blade in upside down, teeth toward the top of the machine. you have to use the sawsall upside down, or in this application right side up. you can get much closer cutting angle this way.
Sawzall tip: use multitool.
Correctomundo
Great job, I am a retired GC and miss my work so much.
Awesome! Very cool trick with the angle finder to get the new facia board flush 🎉
Great tip about the string line, thank you!
Seems like a multitool with a flat blade would more ideal than a sawzall. Thanks for the video, always great to see a master tradesman at his craft!
That's what I Thought one of those Multi Tools for the final Cut would be Much faster and easier to move around Then a Sawzall
My multitool is slow as crap. Like 1/5 the speed of my ciprocating saw.
What about a steady precise karate chop?
@@pierredelecto7069 Exactly.
They make flush cutting blades for jig saws, and reciprocating saws, too. You could go all the way up.
Hey how did you filled the gap between the facia and the roof
Did you forced it or did you modified your cut (facia)?
Best practice is to Seal the ends of all timber during construction with a good Primer Sealer.
The end grain of timber is like a sponge .
Which primer sealer works best in your opinion. I’m looking to DIY at my home.
Thanks
@@everettwhite9874 I usually use a bitumen based brush on sealer. And when building a deck within a metre of the ground I seal the entire subframe before laying the floor .
How long did the fascia board and rafter tails last before they rotted out from the aluminum nails? What do we use nowadays days?
@@Brandon-no3vc It's sounded like there was no facia board. That would be most of the issue, gutter apron Shou have also been installed over the facia board to protect from water getting behind the gutter.
Always ready to learn. Great tips. I really like the idea of starting from the middle. And, now for the gratuitous critique... please wear eye and ear protection.
Hi Daniel, thank you so much for the great video I am in the process of replacing my rafters inside my wanigan and you explained it very well thank you much, I was looking for a good vid to do my job. Again thank you so much and have a fantastic day!
Just FYI, the “angle finder” is called a “T bevel”!
I've been working with string lines for a long time and never seen that trick. Awesome!
Will you put a new gutter on the house, and if so what style hangers will you utilize? Also great work!!
Great video thanks for the info. Maybe I can pay it forward. I actually have that same jigsaw and they actually make a flush cut blade so that you can cut all the way up to the front of the saw, no sawzalll necessary.
I did this exact job 2 years ago, I didn't find anything as helpful as this would have been. I had to make it up as I went. Wish I would have seen this first!
Thanks so much for the feedback! Let us know what else would be helpful content for you.
I had a similar situation with an old house where the original part had fascias that angled back, and an addition had plumb fascias. I decided to straighten the angled ones to match. This is not an open eave as in the video, but a completely closed one. I decided I didn't what the hassle of trimming the rafter tails with the roof decking in the way, so I did 2x4 blocking between them to create a subfascia. Each subascia block has short 2x4 legs screwed on either side that run parallel to the rafters, and I screw those legs into the rafters. I decided on the legs because it makes it easy for me to get the blocking in the perfect position before screwing it in. Then I put my fascia over all of that. Sounds like a lot of work, but it goes quickly. I've never seen anyone do this, but a year later it is still good. Does anyone actually use this method?
You just reminded me of how, many mid century modern homes had fascias that sloped back, meaning the rafter tails were a square cut. These fascias are usually raised above the roof line and were done that way to form a "swale" out of the roofing that acted like a gutter. In any case haven't done exactly what your describing, but sounds like its strong and minimally evasive. It seems like you thought this technique through before starting, and that's whats most important.
redrider3141 .po
Great work ! A true Craftsman, probably one of the last expert carpenter. You remind me of the 2 Craftsman that built our Bungalow with rafter tails and giant fly rafters too.
Wow...just found you guys! Great job...awesome camera work, and excellent woodworking skills and tips. Thank you!
How did you get rid of that gap at the top of the fascia in the middle. I'm replacing my fascia and soffit on a 33' run on the side of my house and the ends are 1 to 1 1/2" lower than the middle. I was planning on measuring and trimming the top edge of the fascia so the bottom edge stays straight. Any suggestions. Thank you Daniel. I'm 70 and could use any advice you would be willing to share.
Why does my house rafters have separate pieces of wood nailed to the end, functioning as rafter tails instead of just rafters that extend the entire way down? Is there any benefit to separate rafter tails?
Nice video.. let me throw out a question.. My neighbor's tree fell on the corner of my garage snapping off the 1st 3 rafters right at the headerboard... I imagine the easiest thing to do is to scab a 2 by 8 from the inside of my shop so that it's level with the rest of the rafters.. Is this what you guys would do? I also realize now that the 1st 3 rafters will be an 1.75" offset from the center of where the broken ones were. is that really an issue?
I like this guys style!...he's smart!
Dealing with rot on the rafter tails myself. I’m not a carpenter, but can someone explain why gutter screws install right into them. I would think you screw another 2x4 right next to the rafter tails and attach the gutters to these. That way you can maybe avoid the eventual rot from the screws going into the end of a piece of wood that is not easily replaced and into one that is.
Absolutely fantastic character, camera presence and execution of your master craft. Well done! Although, I would have liked to see some Hilti tools ;) Thank you for sharing.
How long did the fascia board and rafter tails last before they rotted out from the aluminum nails? What do we use nowadays days?
How did you close the gap on the facia? Did you jack up the ends to remove the sag and then screw in the facia?
What about the 2"- 3" space left where the rafter tail was cut off ?
Thats what im wondering
2:38 sometimes i flip the blade in the sawzall so I can get horizontal cuts more flush. But in this case you might be against the next rafter.
@Mike Dorman What about those multi tools?
Yes, and/or a plunge cut blade on a multi-tool to finish the cut without scoring the soffit.
@@elifire4147 seems like a no brainer
How long did the fascia board and rafter tails last before they rotted out from the aluminum nails? What do we use nowadays days?
Nice to see a pro posting. Too many "how to" hacks on here.
Can I use a 2x6 fascia on a 2x4 rafter tail? Or should I use a 1x6 fascia instead. Great video! btw.
Old houses are a pain in the " BUT " but well worth putting in the time and effort .... " GREAT " VID
i wish you could work on my house! You look like you know exactly what you're doing, thanks for the demo
What state do you live in?
You could just use a chalk line, but the string lines good if its damp. Nice video
Your narration and video is excellent. The close up video is superb. 👍🏼👍🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 Thanh you
Thank you for this video! I've had contractors recommend quick solutions...🙄. This is what I'm about. 👍
I have an open beam ceiling with 10X4 rafter beams that pass through the exterior wall out to the lanai by the pool where the tails are rotted and sitting on a 12X4 support beam that runs 36 feet. So there are 5 rafter beams that need the ends replaced, and the entire support beam under them has to be replaced. Currently it is solid cypress but contractors have said stacking 2X4 boards can substitute for a solid beam, and I don't like that idea but given the expense and difficulty getting beams now may have to go that route. My question is how do you replace the last 1 or 2 feet of a major structural beam like my rafters are? Tearing the roof off to get at the tails is not practical, for one thing the solar pool heater is up there. The roof is a type of construction I have never seen before, the house is what is called semi monitor with clearstory windows, and 18.5 foot high ceiling in the living room. I have one estimate of $29 thousand and that seems pretty high. Covid meant nobody working here all of last year, so it is pretty much getting to the emergency state. May have to pay it. County regulations mean I pretty much can't do it myself or hire handyman type carpenters. Also will need engineered drawings as the county did not see fit to retain the original blueprints even though it was an architect designed house. Getting an engineer to do them will be a problem. I had one here who thought cypress was strictly decorative; he was from New England and was thinking of pecky cypress which is not structural. But cypress is a fine choice in this climate, it is oily and strong, also much cheaper than cedar or pine. Any ideas on how best to replace these tails is appreciated.
How long did the fascia board and rafter tails last before they rotted out from the aluminum nails? What do we use nowadays days?
I found this pretty confusing probably because I am not a woodworker. How did you get the fascia up higher in the center? Does the fascia lift the ends up or did you shape the fascia? There were no images at the end and “starting in the middle” seemed impossible…does the wood bend up? Concave in what dimension?
I imagine they clamped it up. That's what I would do.
Master Carpenter for sure! Thank you Daniel.
I have I guess a silly question are the rafter tails cut perfect vertical or is there a slight pitch??
So, was there no fascia before? The gutter was resting on the rafter tails?
Dude is old school. Like his style.
Quick question what do you use to cover those screw holes before painting the fascia. Would you use caulk or a would filler? What will last the longest?
I remember when I couldn't cut a straight line. 😂you have a lot to learn.
I have many rotten rafter tails and gutters that don't work. I don't think I could pull this off but always wondered what the answer was.
mr westbrook, you dont have to check for any water damage when replacing fascias?
Nice video. Thank for taking the time to make and post. Just subscribed
Nice video and good work habits save eye protection...just takes one slip. No doubt you are booked up for work for the next 100 years in Seattle. Do well.
Maybe dumb question but you cut off 3" of rafter
You don't replace that. Now the ends won't match to th3 other side end. End of video th3 fascia from the other side is sticking out past the side you repaired.
Great tips. I love that tool belt set up also.
You are the man Daniel! 👍
I did it today. Thanks for the video that made it happen!
great stuff......that's the way i work quality workmanship.....takes a little longer ....but at least you know when you leave the peoples house it was done the only way you know how...the right way
Can you not use pressure treated wood for the fascia or other parts up here?
Finally! I’ve been looking for this for a while , much appreciated.
Daniel, you're teaching EXPERTS. Not rookies! KEEP IT SIMPLE 👀
so if my rafters tails are exposed what should I put on them then? fasica board and not gutters??
Superb video ... thanks for taking the time to make these and explaining everything extremely well.
Great job .
Could nt you just double up the rafter tails with pt wood screwed to the existing ?
I think in that situation the rafters are exposed under the soffit.
That sounds like an ugly repair.
Why did this rad kook screw so croocked into the rafter boards. You could have used a 2x4 bottom sits flush to bottom of rafter. I put a 12 ft 2x6 up myself on 2nd floor home. Nail 2x4 block extending out past bottom rafter for facia to rest on so you can nail/screw it into rafter
I wanna cut my rafter tails all the way back to the siding plywood so I can flash it for a conditioned attic. Do you forsee any pitfalls?
wait but putting it that way and using that size wood creates problems, one well now it does not match the sides left and right 2x4s that you can see stick out like a sore thumb and even if you cut those to match the length now they are still lower than the front one that you just put so it dont match also, why did you not just use 2x6 so that the front one goes down further in with and match the side ones and all you had to do is cut the sides in length but will match them now?
You may have saved me a lot of frustration! Thanks!
How far in can i cut into rotted rafter....is there a requirment for leaving so much overhang?... thanks
This is really a matter of balancing the situation with your end goal. If you have a wide overhang with minimal decay on the rafter tails, you can likely trim them back and still be just fine. If you currently have minimal overhang with significant decay, you might consider trimming back the tails to solid wood, then "sistering" another piece of lumber to keep the amount of overhang you have. These decisions are also impacted depending on whether you are just making repairs, or if the work is part of a re-roof project.
Nice informative video. The 'CROWN' of the fascia board be 'down' when installing from the middle due to the wide gable-ends shouldn't It?
Good Call! Yes that can be done. I've used the opposite tension in the crown of lumber especially with fir or framing material as it has more structural strength than cedar. Great question.
When it sags on both ends, how can you make it straight? Trim more both ends ? My rafters are not even, some are more than 1.5 " so there is a 1/4 to 1/2" gap between the facia board and the rafter tails, if i trim them even using the biggest gap (1/2") as a guide, the roof will protrude 1/2" inch after the gutter be installed, what do you suggest i should do?
Does your house have soffits? If so, you could just use some 1/2 inch plywood to shim at every rafter tail. The soffit would hide the shimming. Be sure to use 1/2 inch longer nails.
seems like the point here is to use straight lumber and let the new lumber straighten the roof line as it should be. Making something match what is sagging doesn't make sense.
My man looking how he time traveled from the great depression era. Just kidding..
Nice video, my mom's house has gotten bad water damage from a shitty install drip edge or something and the facia* and rafter tails are rotted.. Its soo bad the damage has come inside and her drywall on her ceiling is cracking and starting to come down.. I have to tools and some know how but I told her to may have to replace the whole rafter and take down the ceiling to access it.. You can even attach a new facia* to the rafter because the exposed rafters are soo old and rotted.. Someone quoted her $1,800 just to fix the drywall on the ceiling ect not including replacing the rafter,facia* and installin a new drip edge. I need all the youtube knowledge I can get.
Very nice!!! What type of wood are you using for the fascia and would you recommend primed white pine.
We are using an S4S cedar. That is smooth four sides. Cedar, is the best for exterior applications. If there is a chance to be exposed to the elements, especially in Seattle, I would not recommend using a softwood like pine, or hemlock on exterior surfaces even if it is pre primed material. You can get a pre primed tight knot cedar, from Dunn Lumber. Does this help?
Or Windsor wood which is an engineered wood preprimed with a 20 yr warantee.
Thanks for the post, nice work! How would you go about replacing the rafter tail if you did not want to cut it back? Thanks again!
You could sister another board to it.
T Willey. Rot, dry rot, and wood rot are common terms. They are brought about by any one of several possible living "Wood Fungus" varieties. The fungus lives by eating or consuming the wood. To properly repair "rot", the infected wood has to be cut out or chemically treated to remove or kill the fungus. To properly repair a rafter tail the rot needs to be mitigated, usually by cutting the affected area off down to "good" wood and adding, or "scabbing", a new piece of wood cut at the proper angle on the end. If the "scab" piece is to run out to the end of the "scabbed" rafter tail piece the end of it should also be angled. The end the "scab" piece should always be on the "inside" of the rafter tail where it would be less noticeable if visible at all. I hope that this helps.
@@jimjordan5630 Thats what I was wondering. He said this was an historic house but he changed the architecture by shortening the rafters. In my case I only have about 5 inches of rafter between end and birds mouth. Is that enough room to sister on a new end?
@@lancomedic Without being able to see your "set-up" it's difficult to say. Is there "blocking" along the to rail between rafters? The roof load is transferred to the wall via the bird's-mouth on the top rail but you still have weight of beyond. I don't think that 5 inches would be sufficient. But you can cut your scab piece(s) longer and replicate the birds-mouth so that the top of the scab piece will follow along the top line of the rafter, and then if you had me access to the inside of the article or loft area. Without being able to draw it show a picture of it's difficult for me (in my mind) to articulate what I'm trying to convey. If not, and if the ceiling on the interior in that place, or in those places, is something simple like dry wall one might could simply cut acres the then once the scab is properly attached replace and patch the dry wall ceiling. I hope that this helps.
@@jimjordan5630 Thanks, I was afraid that I would have to go beyond the birds mouth and you confirmed it. I have access to the entire rafter since this is an outbuilding and the rafters are exposed on the inside. Not sure how many are gone till I completely open the soffit. This started as a painting project but now...
Wasn't clear how the gap in the middle run of the facia was eliminated. I assume just pushing up on the gaped section; deflecting the board up is the answer.
Thanks for the video, I have to di just that in the next month or so. Looks like a beaut of a house. Is it Pacific Northwest? It looks like a Vancouver house.
but if you're just putting fascia up on the end of rafters does the fascia need to be that thick? isn't it supposed to be 1", im new to this so im asking as someone who doesn't know
What if the rot in the rafters extend further. What would be the procedure to repair the rafters?
I have been mentally planning to do this hop for a couple weeks now. I have been going though a thought cycle that goes “circular saw? No. Reciprocating saw? No. Oscillating tool? No. Maybe the circular saw? No.” I can’t believe I didn’t think of the jigsaw. Thank you so much for this video!
I believe setting up a guide board under the rafter tails and setting a circular saw to the correct tilt angle would be vastly superior, finishing the last tiny bit of the cut with a hand saw.
Nice house, cool cap, great job!!
Thanks John! Have a great day! Thanks for watching
if the sag was in the middle instead of the the two end what would have done differently
At 2:50 it shows that you missed the mark on the cut. How did you square it up to the mark so that the board fit?
The jig saw blade will want to bend in that hard fir. So what I do is clean up the cut with the jigsaw coming from the other side, or use a saws all with a fine tooth blade. Id prefer to use a skill saw, but with a soffit is not as easy, so I try to have a verity of tools available for just about any situation I may run into.
2:20 big miss. It did not fit unless he missed the same on all the tails. I set a angle on my skillsaw so it is the same for all my start cuts. Very poor cutting. Also he needs to snap his chalk line so you know it will not move.
@@tomharvy9374 he isn't using a chalk line
What do you do if the wood rot is deeper than the rafter tail and extends into the say living room ceiling? Can you replace a whole rafter and attach it to the main "arch beam" (forget the proper name) assuming the ceiling is going to be tore out and exposed.
yes of course. Especially if ceiling is tore out, is the time to do it. Then next time you replace the roof, go throw some nails into the roof sheathing where the rafter was replaced so its attached properly again. You could also use some short screws from the underside making sure not to purncture your roofing material.
you can also use a sub fascia to move the fascia out. or sister the rafter tails
Nice work ! Thank you 👍
Where can I find that tool belt and gloves? I am digging those
Nice job thank you for sharing.
Where can you get those brackets on your ladders holding the scaffolding
Nick Whittier Lowe’s or Home Depot of course but there is a lot of websites that sell them too.
Ladder jacks
Love this . Motivating carpentry skills.
No way I'd ever try something like that. Nevertheless, watching a skilled craftsman do it was oddly fascinating.
Attempting something out of your comfort zone is always a good thing. Cheers!
I did a like job on my garage. Dewalt makes a flush-cut blade for saber saws - no need for the Sawzall.
Thanks for the tip. This will be handy in certain construction situations. DT2074 fits dewalt and bosch jigsaws, among others.
Hello, I am planning to fit a porch roof to the house, (circa 67 wooden framed) the fascia is narrow in vertical depth and matches the height of the sloped rafter tails. The modern guttering attached to the fascia board covers about 3/4 of the board so there is insufficient room to attach a ledger board through the fascia to the rafter tails. Can I use a deeper fascia board and replace the one on the house in order to give sufficient room to mount the ledger board? Would this be strong enough? If not would it be better to sister some deeper tails to the rafters which would be notched to match the existing rafter but deeper at their ends so I van attach the wider fascia? Thanks
Hi, Allen. I'd have to see your project to really know what your up against, but generally its best to remove the gutter, fascia and soffit, so the rafters are sistered in. Maybe best to also sit the new rafters on the top plates, and that might require removing the blocking between the existing rafters. Ledgering onto the fascia wouldnt be strong enough. The end goal in adding to an existing structure is two fold. Making sure the tie in is, structurally sound and the design is seemless. Does htis help?
Thanks, yes that helps. Looking at the fascia it is only about 20mm thick so it may be covering a thicker board like the one you put on in this video. The way it seems to be done here in New Zealand is the ledger board attaches through the fascia boards and into the ends of the rafter tails with bugle screws to give sufficient strength. I would attach the ledger board under the soffit but can't because the top of the window frames are mounted directly under the soffit edge and so there is no room. This may be negated if I put in new doors as an entrance way, but I fear the underside of the porch or pergola roof will block the view and be probably too low to walk under particularly at the sloped end. I can get about a 2m height if I only slope the roof 5 degrees which is not much. The main roof is only 20 which Is not steep either. It might mean I end up making the roof a stand alone one with its own posts next to the house. Whilst more involved it may be the strongest option. Thanks for you advice.
This is a Craftsman Bungalow, adding fascia over the exposed rafter tails changes the traditional architecture of the home which I think is less appealing.
Where did you get your work belt? I love it. I've been looking for one like that.
Travis Mcghee its called occidental leather tool belt.
occidental or buckaroo
So true . Thank you. Very helpful.
i came back to review ❤. thx
Seems like that overhang needs a little more than new gutterboard/fascia. Wobbly as all get out when he puts up the new board.
Where did you get that cap ?
4:14 what screws are those? I need structural/framing screws in my life.
On our house we used #10 deck screws instead of just exterior screws. We actually used them inside and outside!
What kind of gloves are those?
great video Daniel