I like how confident and quick you are with your cuts! I tend to go much slower nowadays after experiencing several blade dives thru knots. Broke a brand new band last week on a big spruce when it hit a knotty section and dove down deep
Hi there and thank you for the comment. I have found that as long as I make sure to use a nice sharp blade, it's tracking properly, cutting at the right angle, and it's at the right tension I can pretty much cut as fast as the engine will handle. When I picked the mill up, the gentlment who gave me the tutorial said to run the mill so you cna hear the engine lug a little and as long as I do the 3 things listed above I shold be able to cut pretty fast. I've found that ot be true. I do break blades every so often and I think it's becuase I let them get a bit to dull and they heat up and break. That's my theory, but I can't prove it.
Hi! Thanks for watching. I'm using the Woodmizer .045 x 1¼ x 158; 10° blades. Here's a link to the page on their website. woodmizer.com/Store/Shop/WOW-Free-Shipping
I look to be cutting a bunch of wet Douglas Fir this year. I need 2x6 mostly for framing a structure. What size would you cut to accommodate for shrinkage? It will dry over the next year on racks/sickers.
I’m not sure how much they shrink but I do know you can build with green lumber. When I cut it, I just cut to the dimension that I want because, in my experience, the shrinkage is nominal and is not really enough to worry about. That’s just me though. Sorry I can’t be more help on this.
Thanks for watching! It all depends on what I’m cutting. There’s something about Cedar that dulls blades faster. I was told by a blade sharpener guy that Cedar has a chemical in it that tends to dull blades pretty fast. I probably only get around four hours of good cutting time out of a blade if I’m cutting cedar. If I’m cutting nice clean Douglas fir or Hemlock then I can get about eight hours out of a blade. I guess it all kind of depends on what you’re cutting and how dirty the logs are. I’ve noticed that having the debarker has really helped. When I first got the mill I didn’t consistently use the debarker. Now that I consistently use the debarker there’s definitely a large improvement in blade life.
thanks , I'm looking at buying an LT35 Hydraulic and will be sawing mostly spruce , and some oak ,birch and some hard maple, just curious and wondering if buying the sharpener worth it
I think eventually buying a sharpener will be worth it. I drop mine off at a local sharpening place, and they charge $10 each blade. I don't have to deal with it, but if I sawed more then I think it would be worth it. I guess it's just a matter of how much one saws.
I like how confident and quick you are with your cuts! I tend to go much slower nowadays after experiencing several blade dives thru knots. Broke a brand new band last week on a big spruce when it hit a knotty section and dove down deep
Hi there and thank you for the comment. I have found that as long as I make sure to use a nice sharp blade, it's tracking properly, cutting at the right angle, and it's at the right tension I can pretty much cut as fast as the engine will handle. When I picked the mill up, the gentlment who gave me the tutorial said to run the mill so you cna hear the engine lug a little and as long as I do the 3 things listed above I shold be able to cut pretty fast. I've found that ot be true. I do break blades every so often and I think it's becuase I let them get a bit to dull and they heat up and break. That's my theory, but I can't prove it.
You are the Man!! It was great Seeing this live last week.
Come back any time!
what blade are you using?
Hi! Thanks for watching. I'm using the Woodmizer .045 x 1¼ x 158; 10° blades. Here's a link to the page on their website. woodmizer.com/Store/Shop/WOW-Free-Shipping
Nice job!
Thank you, I really appreciate it! Thanks for watching and commenting as well!
I look to be cutting a bunch of wet Douglas Fir this year. I need 2x6 mostly for framing a structure. What size would you cut to accommodate for shrinkage? It will dry over the next year on racks/sickers.
I’m not sure how much they shrink but I do know you can build with green lumber. When I cut it, I just cut to the dimension that I want because, in my experience, the shrinkage is nominal and is not really enough to worry about. That’s just me though. Sorry I can’t be more help on this.
how long can you saw before needing a blade change
Thanks for watching! It all depends on what I’m cutting. There’s something about Cedar that dulls blades faster. I was told by a blade sharpener guy that Cedar has a chemical in it that tends to dull blades pretty fast. I probably only get around four hours of good cutting time out of a blade if I’m cutting cedar. If I’m cutting nice clean Douglas fir or Hemlock then I can get about eight hours out of a blade. I guess it all kind of depends on what you’re cutting and how dirty the logs are. I’ve noticed that having the debarker has really helped. When I first got the mill I didn’t consistently use the debarker. Now that I consistently use the debarker there’s definitely a large improvement in blade life.
thanks , I'm looking at buying an LT35 Hydraulic and will be sawing mostly spruce , and some oak ,birch and some hard maple,
just curious and wondering if buying the sharpener worth it
I think eventually buying a sharpener will be worth it. I drop mine off at a local sharpening place, and they charge $10 each blade. I don't have to deal with it, but if I sawed more then I think it would be worth it. I guess it's just a matter of how much one saws.