Does Hedi Slimane Suck??
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Examining Hedi Slimane’s work across Celine, Saint Laurent Paris, and Dior Homme.
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Bliss Foster is the name on my birth certificate.
The question is how do you afford BOTH celine and coke
Part time job for the coke and dad's money for the clothes
Daddy’s money
Spoofy Zapps435 very true
no you sell and use coke to get money AND lose weight
Be G-Eazy 😭
If Slimane had his own house and everything was done under one name then no one would have a problem with it, like Rick and Yohji have been doing the same sort of stuff for decades and get away with it because its their house. If Rick went to Gucci what do you think it would look like?
It would look badass, and i would start buying Gucci.
@@SPACEDOUT19 this is such a good response. I empathize with both of these arguments, but I think it's very valid and powerful to say that no house is sacred and deserving of being unchanged. (Not to say Will was saying that explicitly, but the implication is there).
That’s what I was thinking. Hedi should have his own brand rather than designing for large houses.
SPACEDOUT strongly agree
@@SPACEDOUT19 da rick gucci loafers fo today
I'm kind of the old guy here. Back in 1998, skinny guy like me didn't have an alternative to baggy/skate stuff, everybody cool at that time was muscular. He was one of the first to tell : you can assume your body if you're slim. So thanks to him, he redifine the silhouette and show an exit to bling that ruled at this times.
It's more about a sense of loss of Phoebe Philo's Celine than Slimane himself. Let's remember women felt especially furious and sad about Philo's departure. Celine used to make this very unique, special, and much-needed-but-hardly-produced women's clothing. Philo's design was more than just for clothes; it was also a way of looking at and thinking about women, their roles and capabilities. Many women loved her clothes even when they could not afford it because they could see the dream version of themselves in her Celine. Slimane's style will live on. It has rooted in the fashion world so firmly. Although Slimane retires, his style will be reproduced for at least a generation. You said his collection at Dior was revolutionary. Maybe it was in a way it was different from what we had seen before. So was Philo's Celine. She has created women's image that is so beautiful and powerful in the industry which suppresses and also is most consumed by women often with narrow standards of beauty. Celine showed you don't have to hide your femininity, or pretend to loathe to be a woman to show your power. Celine didn't shout or poke its clothes into people's eyes. It was just there, and they could immediately understand what it tried to show; Confident, capable and beautiful modern women. Now Slimane directs Celine and what Celine used to make has stopped being made. Phoebe Philo's works are nowhere to be found or produced. At least not yet.
Hedi did, to his credit, change fashion. It's a meme at this point but skinny jeans in the noughties is largely thanks to him.
But that's not why he's my favourite designer. You touched on it, but the reason I follow Hedi's career is because, to me, he just makes really fucking cool clothes. They fit me well and make me feel good when I wear them out. It honestly doesn't matter to me what people think, but when I wear his designs, people who don't care about fashion might be inclined to say something positive. While I love Rick as a designer, I find his clothes largely unwearable, and let's be honest - to any 'normie' - they look ridiculous.
Hedi is a master at what he does, and I can understand the hate for completely shunning the history of a given house (though, actually, he's obsessive about referencing house codes), but at this point I do think the hate has become a meme amongst people who reject anything that isn't avant-garde or overtly 'fashun'.
PS - I don't know if you care for perfume, Bliss, but the CELINE perfumes Hedi put together are fantastic. I won't try to sell you on the clothes.
" They fit me well and make me feel good when I wear them out." so u fit that spectrum of tall skinny white male? great good for u. thats a fraction of the community tho
@@AZANlA well, whats important to the silhouette is really just being somewhat skinny and abit tall
@@AZANlA tbf u can be normal size too. Look at g eazy for example pull that look very well. To wear it like on runway u have to be skinny and like actually tall but u can bring something of ur own to it also
@@AZANlA personally like to use slim hoodies or slim sweaters and bootcuts or flares. Sometimes even dickies. With some of the slp pieces. And i like that look alot and personally even tho i maybe could pull skinny jeans off well id never do it.
@@AZANlA Lord forbid I like a designer that has used primarily people in my racial and body group 😭😭😭😭
Hedi is the first designer that got me interested in fashion. Nowadays I’m constantly having this battle of if I want to wear his clothes, which I think conform to a more modern standard of beauty/looking good. Or, if I want to wear the clothes of more ‘artistic’ and ‘expressive’ designers like the ones you mentioned. It’s tough!
I think you brought up a really interesting point on the affect hedi’s had on the industry itself. Mr. Slim (an idol to me which if you want to consider as a bias, go ahead and do so) had such a huge impact on menswear at his time at Dior that the whole standard till today remains the same, with fast fashion outlets attempting to plagiarize the same ideas from his Dior days (given he hasn’t brought huge change to his work in fashion in terms of concept and silhouettes after slp). Hedi’s purpose i think is not to be a catalyst and source for immense and drastic change in the industry but as bliss stated, to embody and perfect his vision. He stated in a BOF interview in ‘04 I think it was that he believes this is the way mens fashion should be and I don’t believe there is anything better than an artist sticking to, embodying and perfecting his/her vision (IMO). Also an additional point, with rock culture declining I feel like it’s contributed to an increasing distaste for hedi’s collections but this is up for debate.
I totally understand where youre coming from, i think i have the same issues. Hedi and the SLP look was got me into high fashion, but a lot of it can look very same-y and quickly get kinda boring to style. For me, I’ll try to add one or two items that are, for me, experimental and ive noticed my style had been evolving.
Bruce Shen I find that hedis clothes for me are quite ‘uniformic’ like I know that whenever I throw on his clothes I’m always going to look effortlessly cool. I think that’s my favourite thing about his stuff. I can wear the same look, black boots, teddy jacket, slim jeans, over and over and always feel confident in what I’m wearing.
Hey Bliss,
I really like the effort you made by questionning your own subjectivity.
French sociologist Eve Chiapello wrote a whole book on the artistic critic of management. The book is called "Artistes vs. Managers : le management culturel face à la critique artiste". It's a really interesting book to understand why it often seems to be a gap between the artistic world and the business world. I'm not sure it got translated into english but I have another recommandation : "On justification - Economies of Worth" by Luc Boltanski (Christian's brother) and Laurent Thévenot. The reason why it's hard for you to legitimize Hedi Slimane as a designer is because you consider the worth of a designer based on his creativity/inspiration, which they would explain as a conflict between the inspired and the market/opinion world. The book is a bit big but you can find some short articles reviewing their theory.
I love Slimanes fashion style principally because It’s so accessible. I can recreate his looks with cheap clothes and THAT is inspiring to me, whereas some wild crazy outfit is simply not.
I mean he did revoltionise (if thats even a word) the fashion scene with his skinny jeans, poeple before used to wear staight or even flared and with his tight tie trend that he had pionierd he actually made the 2000s in a way back than at dior. I also think hes a nice person he doesnt have many interviews but he seems like a nice introvert and we could share alot about music and stuff
if i wanted to fit into Hedi’s work i’d have to go on a coke binge for a week to drop from 140lbs to 120lbs
Of simply go thrifting at wanna be rockstar shops lol
and be at least 6 feet tall 😪
LaV C lmao fr
Pablo ponce yeah too bad i’m 2in short of that lmao
as someone who's grown up to be very skinny and tall by default, I feel really at home with hedi's work. It's not that I find it interesting or intellectually pleasing but it just feels really nice to wear clothes that "were made" for guys with my physical constitution. It was especially a revelation to me because I was mainly into rick and boris bidjan saberi when I fell head over heels for hedi's work; simply because I felt finally at home when it came to clothing that wasn't designed for buff individuals
So I am very very slim mainly bc of my metabolism problems so for me, being told my entire childhood that I look wierd and that im not a “man” to see hedi come out year after year with clothing that makes people like me look absoultely kick ass is very special he caters to a very specific audience and I like to think that audience is people like me, like him his comments and views on masculinity also helped me out immensely over the years His looks are very repetitive, but I do see expression in them as its basically Hedi flipping off everyone who ever called him slurs for designing clothing or dressing the way he wanted and that to me, is very special ;)
Hedi’s clothes and all it’s derivatives (Amiri, Kooples, Sandro etc) do one thing really well, it looks really cool and I feel really cool wearing it , something about slim jacket + cool button down + skinny pant + pointy boot just looks really nice IMO, and evidently is my go to combo during the fall - early winter months
Do you think this is also a framework to analyze the success of Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior? In her case I think she left the art part to the show and also focuses on product
I think people would have the same problem with rick if he went to the to saint laurent or celine , he has a very diffinitve(?) style , and so it wouldn’t be saint laurent , it would be rick’s saint laurent , same as it’s not celine, it’s hedis interpretation of celine . Really he needs his own brand to sculpt as that’s where he could shine imo.
Great deep dive! I've been rockin' with Hedi since wayyyyyyyyyyyyy back when he was appointed by Tom Ford (as I understand it) to oversee Yves Saint Laurent the FIRST time; sometimes I think it gets overlooked that Hedi did two tours of duty at YSL - the first time when he didn't have the clout just yet to touch the Yves Saint Laurent moniker in full and then his triumphant post-Dior Homme turn where he was basically like "A'ight, we finna change some sh*t...."
His first pass at YSL just amazed me - I was in a far different income bracket back then, and so I was only able to acquire a few pieces from his fantastic tenure there. His Dior Homme era still has a special place in my heart, and the later seasons there definitely set the template for what he'd end up doing at Saint Laurent. Admittedly at first I was dismayed by what he was sending down the runways at Saint Laurent - I was hoping for more of the inventiveness he'd pulled off with his first go-around at YSL and during particular Dior Homme seasons. Don't get me wrong - I was STILL buying certain pieces from that second Saint Laurent stint - but to the point of your video, I think at that time I wasn't really assessing what Hedi's process was.
When he reappeared at Celine, I continued my "same ol' same ol'" gripe - BUT, it was then that I think I started to notice the method to the madness. When I look at my pieces from his various eras and tenures - the YSL first run, Dior Homme, the Saint Laurent prodigal son return, his Celine residency - you immediately realize how there's a classicism and timelessness that runs through each item - knits, suits, boots. I've got something of a small, carefully curated archive of his entire design trajectory, and each investment piece bears the clear mark of the man - but they're from different years and yet are all still eminently wearable. My son's 12 and if he is into this same aesthetic once he's old enough to fit this stuff, he'll be able to rock essentially all of it without looking ridiculous or dated.
So maybe that IS Slimane's genius, if you will - or rather his process, or maybe call it the method to his madness - he repeats himself while still achieving the minutest evolutionary steps, which gives a glaring consistency to his work that is often imitated but never quite replicated. Respect.
Hedi Slimane appropriates the street aesthetics of punks, metalheads, goths and indie kids. He takes homemade & vintage outfits, elevates the quality of material, and relabels them as high fashion. He’s a genuine culture vulture (though he's not the only designer doing this).
I’d like to see him create more original work, which I know he is capable of. Else his legacy risks becoming one that is a derivative of the street cultures he glorifies. I do think it's funny that he's getting the elites walking around in extremely expensive clothing that pass off as thrift store finds.
This is only the second opinion video on a designer I've watched and unlike in the first, you are a reasonable thoughtful human being and I appreciate that. Nice video.
I think that Hedi focuses on a things that aren't as flashy/ seen at first when you look at clothes which is a very proper cut. I get the feeling the clothes always look just like he wanted them to. Plus when it comes to his fashion there is a huge accessibility factor- the clothes are tame but very chic. Last thing I want to add is the actual depth when you go through his runways and tenures at different houses, as each tenure is inspired by slightly different subcultures.
I love hedi dior fw05 is my fav collection of all time. Just because his work is “boring” compared to what others are doing doesnt make it any less beautiful
Loved..."I'm not saying that" but you left it in, definitely the high point of my weekend lolz
And if the stats are right, you’re part of the 10% of people who kept the video open long enough to get that (awesome? upsetting? hilarious?) Easter egg 😂😂
@@BlissFoster awesome, hilarious and just...Bliss lol idt I've ever not watched the entirety of any of your videos
Hedi is taking a sort of revenge after his Dior era. LVMH didn’t want Hedi to have his own brand . Since then he decided he is going to do whatever he wanted wherever he is doing, which is doing what he does best HediSlimane!
Hedi is second coming of Gabrielle Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. He is a living legend. Time proves Hedi is legend, because we can't see it when it happens. I always kept obsessive eye on fashion since I remember, and I am 40. I was crazy about Tom Ford Gucci when it appeared and all the way till the end. When Hedi appeared I "registered" it, thought was ok, but nothing groundbreaking like I felt when Tom first appeared. Second Slimane sign from above was SLP and I was so mad for taking off Yves and whole rebranding and again, "underwhelming" collection. Then came 2020s and I understood. He is perfectionist. Everything he does he does to last from both material quality standpoint and from fact that you can dress his pieces from 20 years ago, not look ridiculous wearing them, and mix them seamlessly with his pieces from 10 years ago. If that ain't good fashion designer then I don't know what good fashion designer is. Tom and John gave us sugar highs, beautiful ones, but time limited ones. Hedi gives us eternity of style, like Gabrielle and Yves did. But we don't see it fully yet.
i vividly recall the aftermath of hedi from 2003-2007 and it's understandable that children born later than 1997 wouldn't have been able to comprehend what hedi did at that time. its just a rock and roll ethos. hedi wasn't the first but, the generation hedi designed for had the internet and i think the exclusivity and allure of being skinny in hedi's work is what caused it to spread rapidly. i wonder why exclusivity and price are so alluring. i am anti-fashion in a way because fashion is so expensive. i make clothing and i completely understand the price of art and quality products, yet being a relatively obscure human i learned how to make my own clothes to save money AND express myself with sincerity and depth. so, i see fashion as a sort of instrument. in reality, you can simply sing, yell, clap and stomp your feet. this personal sound is ultimately as unique as playing a guitar.
I’m liking the new facial hair.
im not a fan of manyof his clothes but i actually really like some of those slim and slightly flared suits
hedi has his vision and keep up with that, he doesn't care about trend and honesty his clothes fits like a glove, make me feel powerful and sure. Anyway it's funny to me that they have a lot to say about Hedi and not noise for Virgil
Hedi is my first love in fashion even if his clothes don’t fit me well.
Does he suck? I think it’s covered well in your video. The matter is more complicated than it seems. It really does depend on what you want from a fashion designer. Hedi designs clothes that you can still wear years from now. It might not capture a period in culture but it is plain, simple good clothing. In the dizzying cycle fashion is in, I think it’s refreshing. That Gucci t-shirt everyone bought three years ago is embarrassing to wear now.
I though believe there’s a problem with his Celine. There is a disconnect. He is fully aware of what the house originally was, pre-Philo. I think he is successful with blending that heritage with his aesthetic, even if he can be a bit too literal. I believe he wants to imbue more history for Celine to survive long-term. However I feel like his stubbornness clashes with the clothes. This might be the time that he won’t get away with it. There is a disconnect with his clothes, womenswear in particular, and how his presents it. Whilst the clothes themselves are laidback and romantic, Hedi’s presentation is just a bit dry. The punk-rock chicks don’t want a literal take on the70s. There’s no edge. Since he took over Celine too, his clothes just lacked sex appeal. His Celine is dry and not seductive. Even if the clothes themselves are well-made.
I’m really rooting for him to get a bigger job, but that would only happen if he will let go a bit. Even Karl said it himself. He has an eye for detail and consistency that many designers today do not have. If his Celine ultimately fails, I hope it wakes him up a bit. I don’t think he’s interested in having his own house. His ego can’t take it when it fails.
I was on the fence about subbing....but the phrase “I love you enough to eat ass after you’ve showered” tipped me over. Lol.
I loved this video, but I never experienced this pretext of "fuck this guy." Maybe this is because Hedi was one of the first designer I considered myself a fan of.
It's fine. He's not the problem. The people hiring him are the problem at this point. But they know what they're getting and he has a fandom for a reason. He's stuck in a groove that works. I've seen it before. What it really means is that if he's still in this groove in a decade, THAT'S going to be a problem. For him. Because nowadays, nobody sticks with a designer hire and lets' them figure it out. And I would add that comparing him with CDG or Green or whoever, doesn't work because Slimane is doing late 70s/early 80s thrift store renovations. When other designers did it for to long, e.g. Roberto Cavalli, they got slated. Slimane works because his 70/80s retro is coming from a place seen my boomers, millenials, and Z's, as a moment of pop culture perfection, with punk, post-punk, and rock in general of the time and rock stars of the time, seen as perfect avatars of Cool. That doesn't and can't last. So the question is, can Slimane switch it up again, like he did when he moved from the futurism of Dior Homme to this retro thing he's been doing since YSL? If he can, THEN he'll be seen as one of the greats. Right now? He's a fantastic marketer and stylist but he's NOT a designer. Having an atelier in LA that took apart or traced fantastic pieces from the wardrobes of Laurel Canyon types is not the same thing as designing. Doing the same in London or Paris? Is not designing. He USED to design. Now? He just styles and refines fit. It's an aesthetic. It's not designing.
Wow what a great comment. I especially liked the point that Hedi was doing futurism at Dior And has digressed a bit into nastalgia. Thank you for taking the time to fully express the thought 💫💫
I think we are still in this era and will continue to be here with hip hop & k-pop stars becoming the new rockstars.
I like this Designer
But the boots make me feel sexy 😔
Can we also talk about your beautifull livingroom?
I think the problem with runway shows is that most of us dont see them in real life. We also dont experience the showrooms and if you dont live in a city with luxury shopping streets we will never see those clothes. I think especially now with lock down, fashion houses have the opportunity to make the garments better visible through video instead of a slideshow of models walking up and down the runway. Even with more extravagant designers I wish I could see the garment, at the end of the day clothes are a 3D experience and we need to see, touch and wear them.
When Hedi replaced Phoebe Philo at Celine, I was a bit heartbroken. People online describe his work as "male-gazey" as opposed to Phoebe's minimalism and professionalism. However, after looking into Hedi's work myself, I'm afraid I have to disagree. He sexualizes both men and women, and having bought a few new Celine pieces, I don't think they are male-gazey at all. I feel empowered as a feminist and woman wearing Phoebe Philo, but I also feel empowered wearing Hedi's designs, albeit differently. Some of his photography work also has anti-patriarchal themes and gender non-conformism. While I do not think the hate towards him was justified, I understand that gut reaction of disappointment, mainly because Hedi Slimane usually rebrands the brands he's assigned to (like YSL and Celine). People think it is not good that his rebrand makes the brand more commercially sellable (and, therefore, less exclusive). I personally don't have a problem with commercialisation, however. I am a consumer, and I only care about the specific item, whether it is worth buying or not. I think Hedi understands this is how the majority of consumers believe.
to me, the reason hedi sells and makes clothes is because he is attracting an audience that doesn’t necessarily see the art in fashion. they see expensive high brand clothes with small changes and start to love that. there is a reason why people starting to become more interested with fashion like his stuff in their early years of exploration until the can find the more art and conceptual part of fashion. hedi is a high end designer that creates clothes partially because they are successful and partially because like men’s fashion, it always contains the type of masculinity we see in most fashion today. the one who are afraid of change in the fashion world turn to him as being a revolutionary designer without changing much.
"It always contains the type of masculinity we see in most fashion today," We see it everywhere today largely BECAUSE of Slimane. Before his time at Dior, that kind of aesthetic in menswear was definitely not common/popular--he did induce a major shift in how men dress.
dads beard really looking beautiful these days
i like your new look a lot
I love Hedi and his work but I don't want him at Céline...
Why is that?
@@BlissFoster As much as I personally love his rock and roll inspired style, I love the Céline that Phoebe had shown during her era.
Some might say well, the brand isn't Phoebe's hence it's natural for brands to have a new designer and a brand new style, but I just personally feel sad that Céline has lost its graceful&elegant yet functional look that they used to have. And not trying to be rude but even a blind man can recognise his style so easily and he produces the same style wherever he goes..... I do like his style and I loved his time at Saint Laurent, but now it feels like he doesn't give really a damn about brand history and heritage. I've got nothing to say if someone says that's part of his philosophy...
I don't see any revolution in his designs that will 'surprise' the public anymore.. I personally think he should just start his own brand and be a brand himself.
Josephine Canyon
I think what Hedi is doing is all good. Everyone is allowed to design and create art in their own way, and shouldn't let their outcome be determined by what other peoples standards and ideas of "good design" is. Are pop-artists bad, because they make music, that maybe aren't neccesarily as artistic as music produced in other genres? No! They can make the music they wan't, and if people think it's bland/boring/uncreative, they can go listen to something else. Same goes for fashion. There is certainly still hundres of brands creating new, inspiring, and experimental clothing out there. The only real problem i have with him, is that he changes brands so often, and kinda leavse a heavy footprint on the brand and it's identity, that the descendant then has to either mimic or redo from scratch. Sure, Anthony is the creative director if YSL, but most people still think of Hedi's style, when they think YLS.
Art always needs to break and redefine its own rules that's what makes it so culturally interesting. Imagine if we made the same clothes and that was it, I'm sure people would be apathetic towards it. I love to see what makes people mad because even if it's negative an emotional reaction means something is happening
It's strange to think that Eddie is reinterpreting American classics, even though he's French and has always worked for French fashion houses.
The USA still thinks it's the centre of the world, it's grotesque!
Idk Heidi designs for my body type. I have to follow him from house to house.
idk much about hedi but i think the wyatt boots are real near
I came back for the beard....
okkk, here's something not many touch upon when discussing such issues, and that DOES not have to do with the crude black-and-white, good-or-bad distinctions... the most infuriating (and problematic) thing about this guy's work and attitude is that it is highly reminiscent, it is in fact a symbolic reiteration of what corporations (especially non smart, purely profit driven corporations) do: take over any new space and impose that same old thing that they want to sell, impose the same cookie-cutter recipe, paying no attention to the particulars of the environment they take over (let's call this the corporatization of fashion, shall we?). . at the end of the day it is not about whether the clothes are good, it is about a certain kind of ethos, subtlety, the ability to allow one's work be challenged by what came before it, to enter into a dialogue with one's predecessors and find one's way around these challenges... to me, his way of doing fashion seems to arise from feeling not secure enough to take a challenge thus becoming aggressive and single-minded in order to stake one's territory, often using rather intimidating and kinda ineffective means as well (what's his thing with changing the names of the houses he works for anyway?). it's about fear and closed-mindedness rather than creativity ... so he might be forceful and a money-making machine, he might be making highly desirable clothes but that still doesn't make him an exciting fashion designer, just a scared corporate golden boy who pretends he is a cool cat .. I'll take some daring, non-profitable designer any time, less corporate money but more exciting for sure. To wrap this up, whether he sucks as a fashion designer is dependent on what our definition of a fashion designer is: a profit driven businessman, a creative person, a delicate balance and heroic attempt to be a bit of both? take your pick and get your answer accordingly
I'm in the minority, but I like that he makes clothing wearable, flattering and luxurious for the majority. I will always appreciate the experimental fashion aesthetic and will continue to invest in pieces from designers like Margiela and Westwood, but "normies" aren't always into that and want an alternative to higher end fast fashion like Banana Republic. There will always be a need for commercial luxury fashion whether its Slimane, Tom Ford or Marc Jacobs, but I think Slimane does it best.
Hedi j makes hot clothes for hot ppl. anybody who hates him is j butthurt that they aren’t hot
Literally every young woman would love to b a Celine girl under hedi
EVERYTHINGS BASIC TO YE GUEVARA THAT MEANS SAINT LAURENT IS MY ZARA.
Классный чувак Лайк!
Hedi Slimane is cool and all but he literally has 100+ look shows and only like 6 black models. I don’t fuck with that. Everyone’s art is different I personally don’t see his work as art but it is pretty. The only reason I don’t respect him is because as a designer your runway and campaigns show the world youre creating in a brand. His world seems to only have skinny white boys and that bothers me.
But you praise Demna??? Smh I’m not a hedi stan but come on. Demna puts models in xxxxxxxxl shirts with DHL on them… boom genius!! Oh and that’ll be $600…. Haha he’s basically doing margiela every season. Nothing but a bunch of pretentious crap at the same time claiming to be anti-fashion.
I love a variety of opinions! Have you seen the Vetements episode and the two Balenciaga episodes I’ve put out? I truly do feel like Demna has a lot to say. And tbh I have Hedi a lot of credit in this video 🤔
classic american coolness??
You know, I kind of agreed with you until I realized that your defense was basically the same defense people make for Tyler Perry... And now I'm deeply confused. Because I still don't accept that Tyler Perry doesn't suck, and I still don't have very strong feelings about Hedi.
Why can’t we create criteria for what kind of art should or should not be made? In the system we’ve currently inherited, the art that does and does not get made is gatekept by the market/investors/the large conglomerates that maintain a controlling interest in fashion houses/couturiers. That being the case, there are certain criteria already limiting what makes it onto a Paris runway and what is relegated fringe, low-budget, minimal-resource corners of the fashion world. Why then, should any Individual not decide and prioritize what they believe is actually worth destroying the environment to produce en masse? But I think you’re on to something when you say that Slimane inflames a certain fear we have that outré fashion, or new ideas are declining. For one thing, the concept of a runway show (especially for couturiers) was never about mass market appeal. Runways haven’t made brands money in many years other than their pride of place as a sort of marketing tool to create hype in order to push High volumes of lower-end accessories. So, if what we’re getting on the runway isn’t doing the job of enhancing the story of, not developing new avenues for a brand, then later on these brands will be faced with the issue of becoming stale. Slimane’s bankability is unquestionable, but when he walks away from a brand what is left? I think of it sort of like Starbucks. At first they were seen as a higher-tier coffee shop. Once they became ubiquitous they’ve descended to a kind of polished up McDonalds. While Starbucks might still be making money hand over fist, they don’t exist in the realm of fashion where the prestige of a venerable old house, or the hype of a novel look, fortify larger public engagement, and create an air of luxury or aspirational appeal. Over time that brand recognition will become eroded. Look at what where Ferragamo, Gucci, and Bottega Veneta were 15 years ago, before they were reinvented. I guess I would say that while I don’t find anything revolutionary, or interesting about Hedi’s work, maybe i understand it almost a natural cycle in high-fashion. Ultimately there will be no money to bankroll new and groundbreaking art in fashion if there aren’t the sales in ready-to-wear to back it up. So Hedi may not have any function as any innovator, but does have a function of a steady revenue stream. One can only hope that when he leaves these houses, and they find they need to reinvest in rebranding their hollowed out image, that they look for designers Designers who are more interested in creating revolutionary clothes for people with different shapes/skin colors etc. I say that because my final note is that Hedi clearly hates fat people.
You are cute! Look into the camera close more often.;-)
I will donate to Ur patreon when I start earning ,I PROMISE
Hedi Slimane is a fraud. OK, he came up with the skinny pants and the reason Karl lost weight was to be able to wear them. But what else did he do? When he's not stealing Romy Schneider's looks, it's Gainsbourg's iconic looks. I don't understand why he's at Celine's. Perhaps he should have his own label and name it The Kooples or something like that?
🤣
Where does your information coming from? Slimane is the most copied designer ever exist. I smell some jalousy here..
Which part of the info? I’m not sure I understand the question 🤔
My answer would be, he’s by no means bad, he’s very good at what he does, but what he does he’s done forever... its just repetitive and boring now.
Hi Bliss,
I’m disappointed with your video about Hedi. Very superficial ... Who cares about what people are commenting in internet ? Are we going also to look at what people commenting about Helmut Lang, Margiela or Raf Simons?
When I think about your Videos I think of real analysis of the designer’s work as you did in other episodes such Undercover, Margiela, Rick Owens or Raf Simons.
There is a lot that goes into Hedi’s fashion and artistic vision .... honestly this video is very superficial.
I would like to say I love your UA-cam content particularly when you share your huge knowledge, dedication and enthusiasm about fashion and art with all of us.
Hi Javier! 😊 thanks! I love feedback 💫💫
@@BlissFoster While I don't overly agree with the original comment here it raises a good point. Criticism and praise from fashion journalists would have been a welcome addition to the video in combination with the random reddit comments
still, i think instead of moving from brand to brand and “hedifying” everything, he should just get his own brand and explore his pseudo punk twinkness there
i love hedis work but I have a problem with him switching houses so much. Because he leaves leaving a sortof hedi-fallout, wherein the new designers has to go on working from hedis vision towards his own because the hedi stuff sold well and the big people upstairs dont want to risk financial income. And that transfer from
hedi to the vision of the new designer takes a couple of seasons. And still even after that hedis signature will still be there somehow, like some radiation. It will never truly go away. And because hedis signature is so "normal" it slowly takes away a bit of expressionism. And I love that as well. Thats my 2 cents. Would love to hear what u think.
Yeah, this is true. But it’s one of those things where none of that is his fault. That’s the business side of the industry doing what it does. I’m not sure how much of that can be blamed on the man himself.
@@BlissFoster Even though i dislike Kim Jones' Dior I think it has finally progressed from Kris Van Asche's Hedi Dior 2.0. Overall I think that Hedi Slimane is a designer in the same vein like Yohji and Rick, but especially Yohji. They both have this goal where the way they view fashion is to continue perfecting similar silhouettes and themes but have different styles for each season. I think that the early Dior Hedi shows are really interesting and out there in the way they play with masculinity (with the hot pink jeans, glitter jeans, high heel boots, tight shirts and long skirts), which i think is something that is looked over. Yohji def has a lotta shows in the 90s where his designs are very flamboyant, just like Dior Hedi. The differentiating factor I see is that Hedi is more pop (or rock i guess) and Yohji is more experimental and extreme in his pattern cutting and silhouettes. However I think that Hedi SLP and Hedi Celine has been lacking and I'd like to see more of the flamboyant side for up and coming shows and not just fragile coke head rockstar looks lmao.
HOW DID YOU COMMENT THIS A DAY AGO
and also looking at this in another light, hedi does set the bar high when talking about clothes that sell extremely well, the hedi-fallout is definitely a thing and restricts other designers but it couldn’t be hedis fault, people just eat up his clothes
@@hakohan351 Patreon!
Hedi is the perfect designer for people into the rock scene. Just like I don’t necessarily have to like streetwear or sneakers for myself personally means I have to hate on it. I own pieces from every collection Hedi has done (including the Dior Homme I wear regularly) and my husband and I share them. Hedi is a great designer for rocker types and we know it’ll be something that we won’t ever get rid of. But hating on him would be like me hating on a designer that just does hoodies and sneakers. You don’t have to hate on artists just because it’s not for you.
I can’t wear a Balenciaga ball gown to the grocery store but I can wear a Chelsea boot and moto jacket. There’s space for all in fashion.
You can’t wear a Balenciaga ball gown to the grocery store?
Bet
But on a more serious note I agree
In a bud to bring diversity to art we basically created a fashion dark age of less diversity in art than ever😂
You can design art. You can’t design artists.
it's more of a criticism that he doesn't have much diversity as a designer and hasn't evolved much 😅 he's very much past-his-prime artistically
From what little I've closely looked at Hedi Slimane's work at his various houses, it is clear that he has achieved what I imagine a lot of designers and artists strive for, and that is having your work be instantly recognizable as your work and that is in itself a feat worth praising him for.
the credit must be taken in context tho. he picks the same tall slim white models who look like they did coke an hour before wearing black. i love black but his way of styling makes the bar for familiarity very low
Hedi and Rick are the only designers that have made me change my body
Honestly, Hedi has been one of my favourite designers ever since I got into fashion.
There have even been brands that pretty much blatantly copied his signature "Cocaine sniffing, Rock & Roll trust fund kid" look, such as Amiri and Enfants Riches Deprimes. I would argue that those brands would have never existed, or not existed in the way they do today, if it hadn't been for Hedi.
If the question is "Is Hedi a good designer?", then we must indeed determine what qualifies whether a designer is good or bad.
His clothes sell so well, to the point that other people can successfully imitate him. Does that make him a good designer?
He always produces the same garments, regardless of house. Does that make him lazy?
In my opinion, he does not even produce identical clothes at each house. Sure they are similar, but one would argue that that is his signature style, the same way that when you hire an expressionist painter to make an expressionist painting, you don't want him to give you a modernist painting and call it a day. When you compare his work at Celine and SLP, we can tell that he started using more subtle draping and flaring for men. It adds a more feminine look to what has previously exclusively been a female house. I believe he truly understands the spirit of the house he works at, and captures it perfectly while maintaining that aesthetic.
Furthermore, everything he makes is just so commercially perfect. When I imagine a pair of sunglasses, Hedi has made those exact sunglasses that I had envisioned, ten times over. When I think of a sleek, leather boot, Hedi has made it in the same color, material and shape that I had in mind.
He caters to the male consumer in an effective way.
Some days, I might not want to wear a Craig Green coat that is a literal tent, or a pair of margiela pants that are literally made inside out, when I am going out for groceries. But what am I going to do, go to H&M for a "normal" bomber and hoodie? No, I'll just throw on an slp teddy and Haider Perth hoodie.
He's sellable, caters to the everyman, and has a unique and identifiable style. That's great, but he takes up spaces in brands that used to be known for intellectualism, individuality, and expression. The current example, Celine, hurts especially badly because it was a brand built for women who didn't rely on sexuality to feel powerful and one of the only brands that were doing it successfully. Hedi hasn't honored that at all and that's why he receives so much hate. The male gaze has more than enough footholds in fashion and Celine was an outlet for the female gaze to thrive. Hedi as you said caters to the male consumer, so why wouldn't people be mad that he was made head of Celine? There's nothing wrong with him as a designer, but his vision belongs in his own brand.
Sure, but as you already sort of hint at, it's céline's fault and not hedi's. He was appointed to be creative director which means that céline's higher ups consciously decided that what the brand needs next is hedi. To the devoted slimane fans this meant that celine was their (only) new outlet for hedi's clothing and they of course flocked to it. If people miss philo's designs at céline, I think they should direct their hate towards celine and not hedi slimane. sometimes it's hard to hate the brand and not the creative director that currently works for it; like in the case of tisci at burberry. but we shouldn't forget that it's the brands that choose their creative directors and not the other way around
when I look at Amiri all I see is Hedi Slimane
@@orlandobrunner1005 I completely agree with you, however I do understand the perspective of the people who are upset with Hedi himself. As Hansel here was also stating, it's that he is taking up the space for another designer at the brand. The point of view that I imagine most anti-Hedi people have is not that his clothes are necessarily bad, but rather that if he has got such a signature style he should start his own brand. I can imagine that people see him as a sort of parasite, however I do admire his decision to not start a label from a business perspective. We must not forget that being a fashion designer is just as much being a business person, as much as an artist.
If you were to put yourself in Hedi's shoes, you have the best life imaginable, because you get to make the collections you want with other people's budgets. You still get an incredibly high salary, but never run the risk of losing your own money. It definitely brings a lot less stress along with it, because you don't have to worry AS much about the brand as you would for your own.
@@epasuxelar4473 perfectly said!!!
Hedi shows what people want and what he sells. Look at other brands that have these massive shows full of walking art pieces, but all their sales are logo tees and chunky sneakers. Hedi is playing a different game, but the end result is the same - profits.
There is still place for art in fashion, but not all art has to be ground-breaking and flashy. Hedi's art is the coolness of rock & roll, the lifestyle of a rockstar, the beauty of simplicity, black and white photography, street-scouted models and real stories, real people.
You can go look at contemporary art and it will shock & amuse you, or you can go to a photo exhibition and look at real stories, feel a connection. A lot of fashion is like contemporary art, but Hedi's fashion is more like his photography - real & true to itself.
You can't say that he is bad at what he does, because he is not. He is just not doing the same thing that everyone else is doing - he creates pieces that make you feel something when worn, not pieces that change who you are.
great analogy
Last sentence really was IT. Like wearing hedis pieces just makes u feel like a rockstar. And they do it better than any other clothes. So if u like rock and the clothes feel like expression of urself theres nothing wrong with that.
This!!!
"Hedi sucks because he doesn't produce clothes like Phoebe does." - Diet Prada, probably.
It's much more nuanced than that. Watch HauteleMode's Hedi video for why Hedi doesn't work for Celine.
@@epasuxelar4473 I was making a light joke...
I guarantee you there are people who actually believe this statement so regardless of if it's a joke, I want people to take a more nuanced approach to the issue. You can have your joke, I'm just offering information if people would like to know more.
@@epasuxelar4473 Only Diet Prada fans are dumb enough to believe that
Remember how you woke up one day in the early 2000s and everyone was wearing skinny jeans? You can thank hedi slimane for that
For me Hedi Slimane was the first menswear designer I fell in love with,
It all came down to his idea of manhood and how a man could look like. Growing up and even now, I was always pretty skinny and feminine and seeing his first menswear show for Saint laurent that was the first time i saw guys like me on a runway. Guys who weren't macho hypebeasts nor pretentious crowns, that was a maculinity that I could relate to.
There is something witing his work that resonate with a lot of young men, specialy those who don't fit into the traditional definition of what a "man" is.
Well written 👏🏻 hedi is my favourite designer of all time idgf
Completely agree!
This was it for me. I felt the same feelings being an ultra skinny kid and having everyone pick on me. Hedi showed the world how masculine and cool someone like this could actually be in a world where every man is supposed to be ripped to shreds. The man is also just really good at making simple clothing. He also references different eras of rock music even the 2010 burger records boom (Something I was apart of) with SLP SS16. In the same way people feel connected to other designers for their own reasons, I feel connected to Hedi’s work for these reasons.
I just think it’s a shame what he has done to Celine, just like to me, Ricardo Tisci did to Burberry. Change is necessary, but I wish those brands wouldn’t rebrand themselves so drastically in a way that people lose touch with the brand.
Strong agree. Tho Celine without Phoebe is tough. She seemed to be the light that made us like it so much in the first place.
@Bliss Foster I miss Phoebe, but thank God for Peter Do 🙌
@@MarisaB2001 peter do has done the world so much good
I see your point since he does bring his own asthetic to celine men (wich didnt exist before hedi) but Celine collections for women isnt really hedis asthetic, I mean sure he does bring his own type of asthetic into it but he has made a lot of pieces inspired by older Celine and if you look at it it really isnt rockstar wich he usually goes for. Its more of a greek european vibe I guess
Please don’t mix Phoebe’s style and Céline together. What you like is phoebe not céline. If you want more céline, you can go check Bottega Veneta or Victoria Beckham.
Hedi brings the most classic rock pieces to fashion. Everyone can do a denim jacket, but the way he styles the denim jacket and how he himself wears it is what makes it cool. His love for music and photography wrapped him in that world. I swear when I put on a black hedi denim jacket or blazer I know that I'll still rock it with a t-shirt or button shirt with a necklace in 10 years. He might change the cut a bit over time like he's doing with Celine, but it'll always be undeniably Hedi.
The kind of comments of Hedi being the only one copying H&M and Zara and not the way around is kind of silly because Hedi created this aesthetic that in that time was so well received and relatable to many people that fast fashion make it their own and worked.
H&M doesn’t even copy H&M they are completely sponge bob enthused
He created the aesthetic of skinny white rockers wearing tight cloths? You sound insane
The layering with the scarf, brown under shirt, and white scoop neck shirt is phenomenal. It makes me want to go devote some time on hunting down awesome silk scarfs.
Hedi Slimane got me to actually care about clothing and how I dressed back when he was at Dior Homme. In my opinion there is nothing wrong with his clothing. Classic menswear with a flattering silhouette existed before Hedi and will exist after he is gone. So blaming him for destroying fashion seems silly to me. The one thing that he did that I think can maybe contribute to that is that his clothing was really only designed for extremely thin people. Other designers also latched onto this and made it even more extreme. After a while A LOT of high fashion became inaccessible to anyone that did not have a certain body type. I think that was one of the contributing factors to the rise of streetwear in high fashion. There is nothing wrong with streetwear. It's highly accessible to anyone. But if you want to talk about art being gone from fashion...there is only so much you can do with T-Shirt, Jeans, and Shoes. People are more limited in the way they can express themselves with those pieces and fashion becomes an accessories game.
Other people mentioned how he changes existing fashion houses and that seems to be a major problem people have with him to but other people already explained that in the comments.
Been waiting for this episode
i guess Hedi's work is very intertwined with the lifestyle he lives by
rock and roll, music as a way of life
which is an interesting roll of fashion, communicating lifestyles.
and to study the way fashion influences music and the other way around is my passion
what you are wearing always give a list
oh hi i didnt see you there
Do coke, buy Hedi... profit.
I think people take for granted a good fitted outfit the simplicity of a leather jacket , Jeans ,white T-shirt and a boot is remarkable I’m always amazed by how as humans we construct that. Simplicity does not mean basic ,producing something that last for decades it’s tough and it’s truly a work of genius.
Okay coming from someone who was a teenager during the YSL years of Hedi and was on tumblr he did have a big impact from the male fashion side that influenced the women. I see him in the same vein with popularizing soft grunge, vintage Americana nostalgia and somehow mixed with American Horror Story Coven "we wear black" aesthetics. The boys and girls did exalt thinness online but that sadly has been a norm with fluctuating body types being "en vogue", but he definitely was part of that subculture zeitgeist in mixing in with indie rock music and classic rock, the styling of the 70s with a new 2010s spin and a little bit of nu goth. It was fun, new, and very distinctive and I was in love.
Of course it was not permanent as all fashions are, but he has still made a huge impact and I see it in the evolution of male artists (Harry Stles especially) and most men's suits being sold are still slim fit with skinny ties and lapels from that modish rocker chic he brought back from 60s rock.
Does it sell well, yes. Is it easily replicatable because it's so damn distinctive, yes. Should he FINALLY open his own house, yes. Are we owed anything like it, debatable. The man can do what he wants, and has become successful in the vein of doing what he wants. There is also something to be said about imitation as the sincerest form of flattery. So conclusions, he has had a big impact, and especially from my point of view growing up online, and he will remain controversial. That's kinda his thing, just like Rock and Roll, pushing opinions and boundaries. I can admire his consistency and vision, it's very distinct and doesn't have to be for everyone, that's why it's fashion. Art comes in many shapes and forms, and commercial viability has been an argument in post modernism for some time. Whether that can be applied here is debatable, but either way Hedi will continue to be Hedi, people will debate over Hedi, and the world will keep turning with new trends and changes regardless what Hedi is doing in his little corner of the industry he's carved out for himself.
I literally watched this while wearing my 2011 Phoebe philo era Celine shirt... no hate, that is all🙃
Lemme buy it off you
His footwear and aesthetic is god Level to be honest 🤷🏽♂️
COMEDY ALERT! THE FOLLOWING TEXT HAS BEEN DEEMED HILARIOUS BY THE COMEDY COUNCIL!
Slimane? More like Slim man haha 😂
LOL! The duude is tiny!!!!!
Only issue is I'll never fit into size 27 1 of 1 runway sample chain embellished n sequin pants. N if i ever do it wouldn't be sustainable health wise n im currently size 28 or 29.
He does have those breathaking moments too, tho. That last show for Saint Laurent was amazing, surely it’s not the way Raf Simons’ amazing, but that doesn’t make it less great. He’s more about detail, quality and nuances. Still a crime what he did to phoebe philo’s Céline, but we can get that mood in Bottega Veneta now so 🙃
I think hedi as designer is very good. His pieces arent art but theyre mature, have attitude and are propably the biggest cool kid clothes out there
Idk if you'd consider it art but the cut of his clothes are fantastic, if your body fits it no one else can fill the void that he can
@@rosez6737 thats pretty much what i said haha. As wearable everyday clothes theyre close to perfection but artistic side is minimal. Especially if u dont go full on rock look they can look very smart also aka not w25 skinny jeans
I think one of the reasons that Hedi Slimane is heavily successful commercially is in part to the fact his designs are extremely approachable. Not everyone enjoys a Rockabilly aesthetic 24/7/365, but the people that do are willing to spend the money to encompass this vibe.
I think that Hedi Slimane is important to fashion the same way Karl Lagerfeld is, in the way that they inhabit the same creative archetype: the producer. Someone once told me at school that there are different types of creatives, and everyone has a purpose when it comes to the bigger picture. Karl Lagerfeld was known to fervently create hundreds of sketches a day, supposedly worked from 4:00am-12:00am with no signs of fatigue at any point of the day, was a/an: illustrator, wardrobe stylist, photographer, curator… AND was responsible for creating the modern fashion calendar (which everyone is now trying to repeal). Karl was the penultimate producer. Sure, he bastardized Chanel slightly to give it the edge it needed, but he hasn’t changed fashion in extremely innovative ways. What consumers and buyers can expect from Karl every season, is the consistency that he will always make clothing that sells. Hedi is a similar type of creative-- he was a designer for Yves Saint Laurent and Dior Homme before taking a hiatus to further pursue his photographic endeavors. He created the Slimane silhouette, but he’s known for his rock and roll aesthetic, which he makes consistently. People expect this aesthetic and vibe from him, that his tenure at Saint Laurent tripled this Kerring brand’s earnings.
The likes of Marc Jacobs, Rei Kawakubo, and Alexander McQueen, belong to the visionary archetype: the creatives that can imagine the impossible. These designers have revolutionized fashion in their own unique ways. Many of the pieces they create are not necessarily approachable, but their creations elevate fashion as art so that it can keep on innovating towards better and brighter things. Many of these visionaries most often will hire a designer who can produce diffusion lines that are approachable. In the most general of terms, it’s art and commerce-- some designers veer closer to the art side while some sway towards the commercial side.
I can’t say I dislike Hedi’s work with Celine but I can definitely see why many fashion lovers today really condemn him. I feel like he does a very specific look very well but really never strays very far from where he’s comfortable. Given his resources at Saint Laurent and now Celine I think people perceive a lack of creativity and a lack of willingness to push boundaries whereas many very much value designers that are really reaching out and creating art. All in all I find that keeping up with Hedi just feels like “oh hedi worked on a new collection? Is it really damn skinny jeans, boots to accommodate how skinny the jeans are and tops and jackets inspired by either formal militaria, Americana, or rocker styles? Yup that’s a hedi collection alright.”
No hate though, would absolutely love a pair of SLP Wyatts from the hedi era. One day...
Making clothes tht r practical to wear and looks good in ur day to day life tht has the quality of a designer house isnt a bad thing
tbh i think it’s mostly elitism, yohji and rick have maintain the same look and vision for dey whole careers but man only cares if it’s hedi lmaoo
I accidentally stumbled on this channel and I already love it. This video gives off very "Good Eats" and Alton Brown vibes
It's very funny because ( I'm not comparing everyone as a whole) ppl who champion Kanye for being a product guy. Often don't fscy hedi as the same. Unless they are viewing Kanye as the little celeb that could & not viewing him on equal footing. Help me spot the diff.
Much like Kat Hepburn told Anthony Hopkins. " just read the lines they already picked the actor " Hedi was selected for this very reason. Sell sell sell oh & do it on our own merits. No celebs just cool. Surely it isn't for everyone & the true crime here is the gap between him & Phoebe. She could put out denim jacket & ppl would want the look at all costs. Hedi doesn't have that & I'm sure every house that has hired him is happy they are coolest cool.
Hedi for Saint Laurent is great but he did for Celine was a curse, just like Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy then Burberry was flop!
btw why you talk like you were arguing with someone? Lol
I am surprised no one recalls Burberry Prorsum with Christopher Bailey punk rock aestetic in conjunction with Slimane. They came approximately during the same time, and Burberry was really big at this time, together with the obsession of brit-pop and related UK indie sleaze. I recall late 2000, and everything were Burberry, trench/motorcycle jacket hybrids were everywhere, but nowadays Slimane is still afloat, and Burberry tanked.
An artist that I follow on youtube, and has made a place for himself as an artist, what ever that means, believes that there is more integrity in finding what is with in you the artist, over trying to be spectacular.
After finding out what is within, he suggests developing the hell out of it, rather than trying to create statement after statement. Thats just one opinion.
Fashion can be art, but at the end of the day, we do need clothes to wear. I make art, but it is not necessary for me to wear it. I love the art of fashion though.
Im probably not adding much here lol.
As far as standards go with art, quality and intention is what care about. I like to have a reason beyond the first glance, to keep looking. If all pf what is being presented, is beauty or cool, that is fine, but I do want to be drawn in somehow. I don't need to know the artists thoughts on the work, or what the process is, though that is interesting, and I do like learning about it, but with the art itself, I want to form my own conclusions and have my own experience. I do want to get a feeling from what I am seeing.
When it comes to clothes and wearing them, does it really matter what went down the runway? The creativity is passed on from the designer to the wearer.
Fashion shows have become somewhat of a production, and that is not bad, it is creative expression, but like I said, at the end of the day, we are talking about clothes,
Or are we talking about money? Brands like what sell, the designer/ artist is not necessarily concerned with making money, but like it or not, money speaks, and that could be a part of what is going on here. I don't know.
I did not know Hedi before today. Maybe he needs to have his own house :)
I about choked on that last comment. LOL Note to self, don't drink anything whilst listening to Bliss.
I think to me, the root cause of this Hedi hate comes from the transfer of tribes within the fashion house of Celine. Both Hedi and Phoebe focus on a particular archetype of woman and are associated with completely polarizing subcultures. But at the same time if you really see, Hedi never gave Celine a complete rebranding but infact it was a revival back to the original Celine from Celine Vipiana era. If you see the early archives of Vipianas celine alongside the logo, it is very similar to Hedi Slimanes Celine. We naturally associate the house with Phoebe because of how Phoebe's entry was a strong and bold rebranding for celine at that time - it was an extension to the Celine woman, something unchartered yet so familiar for an existing Celine customer. And also taking into account the idea of how sensitive subcultures like Rock N Roll can be and this purist need for it to have strict laws governing the same. It is indeed controversial but also much needed. I have always been a Hedi Dior boy and I love Phoebe celine, and I remember in the early days, I hated Hedi Celine. But little did I know that this rebranding was more of a revival and personally being into more product centric brands like Veilance and Acronym myself, that's where I started finding love for Hedi celine.
At the end of the day it's about our associations and psychological relationships we build with a certain brand. At the time of phoebe's appointment, that take on celine was fresh and new and empowering to a certain type of woman, who was also an existing Celine customer - just transfered in the form of their identitarian cycles. Most of us associate Celine with Phoebe, but however there is a longing psychological relevance and archival history that also comes into play with this call.
Now of course the basis of most fashion arguments come from whether fashion is exclusive to an art form or whether it can be something that is more transferrable and versatile with function. But even functional wear can be a science - It's anthropometric, it's ergonomic - it values around our definitive need for comfort. Or the idea of something that moulds into your body over wear which can create a beautiful narrative of your clothes turning into your own autobiographies. Not saying that Celine does incredible R&D with all this but it still falls under this category of daily wearables.
I also don't really think that it's fair when people say that all his work is the same at Dior, Saint Laurent, and Celine. One common theme is obviously the skinny silhouette, but as the saying goes, the devil is really in the details.
One place where I believe that this can be seen is in his denim. At Dior, obviously his denim was popular (like you mentioned in the video, that's how a lot of people, like ASAP Rocky, got into fashion). However, while still skinny, you can see from the looks in his shows that the jeans are longer and have quite a few stacks. This is in contrast to when he was at Saint Laurent, where the jeans are more cropped with no breaks in them. Then we move to Celine, where the wash on the denim is much lighter, and where the jeans are flared instead of being skinny throughout, as well as being less cropped.
In a more general sense, from what I've seen, I believe that his work at Dior made use of more suiting and trousers etc. With his work at Saint Laurent, I feel he used more leather and casual silhouettes, with a darker colour palette and a lot of black, and obviously popularised heeled boots like the Wyatts. With his work at Celine, the colour palette changed and he made use of more browns and blue denim, perhaps paying homage to styles that were more popular in the 70s. This could also be seen in the way he styles the models hair etc. I've also heard people talk about how he's started to reference the Celine archive.
I'd love to hear your thoughts though, this is just from someone who is a beginner in the world of high fashion.