Thank you for this video. One of the best instructional videos out there for this. That bolt under the master cylinder was crazy, took me a few minutes just to find it. The front went smooth for me except I popped the front axle out but luckily it went back in easily. The rear was so easy to remove but so hard to install. I was by my self and it was a tough job. Ultimately I put one spring compressor on the spring while in the car and this allowed the strut to be pushed into the eyelet much easier. All the bolts were so tight and somewhat hard to get to. Glad it is over lol
Do not loosen all bolts when the suspension is loaded. Everything will be out of alignment. European cars suspension are designed with the flex of the bushings calculated as part of the “spring rate”. If you dont “center” the bushings, you will only get ‘spring resistance” going one direction. Worse, you could tore through the flex limit of the bushings and cause failure of the suspension arms and bushings. I suggest referring to Porsche service manual, get all alignment spec and bolt torque spec. Otherwise it’s gonna ride like crap and you will be redoing all this over and over.
German car are different that's why they are better ;-). I think it would be better to install air springs like my Cayenne S has stock. I would guess all the wiring is already there.
@@hrg_tv any nuts and bolts that hold a bushing must be torqued with the vehicle weight on the suspension. it shouldnt matter when you loosen them but if they were tightened correctly then you loosen them in the air, the arms will drop a bit. and yes it happens this way in reality. ask me why i bought poly bushings... on these chassis they go so far as to use the _subframe_ bolts and bushings as alignment tools. torque specs are extremely important as well and you will have customers complaining of wheel shake if you impact the lug studs or don't torque them to correct spec.
@@StefRush i believe there are three required control modules to be purchased to convert to air, as well as recoding with VCDS. There will be no wiring harness going to the wheel level sensors that need to be installed. it would be easier to go aftermarket air plus then you can use nice bilsteins and such.
A spring compressor would have made alignment a bit easier and you defiantly need to put lock tight on the first nuts otherwise it will come loose over time when off roading .
Seems like longer adjustable struts would be far easier, as you wouldn't have to remove the upper mounts. When you measure the height, it's better to go from the hub to the guard, that way it can be compared to other vehicles regardless of rim/ tire size.
Nice Video. Thanks very much fo this upload. Shouldn't you upgrade the stabaliser bar linkage to a longer one? but it gonna look real good with some bigger tires. please give us an update when they nstall bigger tires. btw any lift kit for the Audi Q7
Don’t you need screw glue on the nuts against plastic? I think the nylock nuts are for the plastic parts, the factory nuts should stay where they were at. I’m talking about the green spacer nuts.
17:40 "Alright guys it's worth mentioning you need a socket set that goes to 24mm..." No problem, I have a Landrover Defender (a real one & not a pretender), my socket set goes all the way to 36mm :) I also have a couple of large specials :) All 1/2" drive... what else is unbreakable...
excellent video after so much searching it is the best and most complete video, step by step for the installation of the lift kit! congratulations keep it up! a new channel for my account!
how much would this be in labor? I have zero time to lift mine but I can do everything else. I really wanna off road beast lol Im in the NYC area so please feel free to message me
if you dont have air suspension then go to any local machine shop and have them cut you some pieces of 6061 aluminum and then you just head to the local hardware store and pick up some grade 10 bolts of the correct length for spacer size, then drill holes in the spacers and stick em in. you need to drop the subframe as much as you lift the suspension to maintain correct axle geometry, and with 5 inch lift you will need custom upper control arms that can adjust out the camber of the lift. you can put spacers on top of the upper shock mount as well as in between the strut and the mount. you can even fabricate some plates that extend the bottom of the strut fork mount which is a good idea to do, make sure they extend all the way up the forks and put bolts through all the holes, i have bent the fork mount off roading so it is good to reinforce it! all in i would estimate you can get it done for 100 bucks not counting the upper control arms which are just gonna suck, unless you can fab those. now i have never seen a 5 inch lift but there is also a chance you will need to extend the steering shaft and cv axles... best of luck, if you do it please make a video or two lol!
THE. BEST AND MORE. TO THE POINT. REVIEW. IS. NOT. EASY. TNKS. SIR. FOR. YOUR HELP. NOW. WE CAN DO OUR CAYENNE....BLESSED. BE. AND HY. FROM PUERTO RICO..WE WILL BUY THAT KIT...😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for this video. One of the best instructional videos out there for this. That bolt under the master cylinder was crazy, took me a few minutes just to find it. The front went smooth for me except I popped the front axle out but luckily it went back in easily. The rear was so easy to remove but so hard to install. I was by my self and it was a tough job. Ultimately I put one spring compressor on the spring while in the car and this allowed the strut to be pushed into the eyelet much easier. All the bolts were so tight and somewhat hard to get to. Glad it is over lol
The brittle plastic for the washer fluid is super common I sold those like grave and charged .10 to replace it
Do not loosen all bolts when the suspension is loaded. Everything will be out of alignment. European cars suspension are designed with the flex of the bushings calculated as part of the “spring rate”. If you dont “center” the bushings, you will only get ‘spring resistance” going one direction. Worse, you could tore through the flex limit of the bushings and cause failure of the suspension arms and bushings. I suggest referring to Porsche service manual, get all alignment spec and bolt torque spec. Otherwise it’s gonna ride like crap and you will be redoing all this over and over.
Reality does not bear this out, though.
German car are different that's why they are better ;-). I think it would be better to install air springs like my Cayenne S has stock. I would guess all the wiring is already there.
@@hrg_tv any nuts and bolts that hold a bushing must be torqued with the vehicle weight on the suspension. it shouldnt matter when you loosen them but if they were tightened correctly then you loosen them in the air, the arms will drop a bit. and yes it happens this way in reality. ask me why i bought poly bushings... on these chassis they go so far as to use the _subframe_ bolts and bushings as alignment tools. torque specs are extremely important as well and you will have customers complaining of wheel shake if you impact the lug studs or don't torque them to correct spec.
@@StefRush i believe there are three required control modules to be purchased to convert to air, as well as recoding with VCDS. There will be no wiring harness going to the wheel level sensors that need to be installed. it would be easier to go aftermarket air plus then you can use nice bilsteins and such.
A spring compressor would have made alignment a bit easier and you defiantly need to put lock tight on the first nuts otherwise it will come loose over time when off roading .
Always expanding 👍
Is it also possible to do this with air suspension?
If you had the parking brake on, it would keep the rear from dropping.
Seems like longer adjustable struts would be far easier, as you wouldn't have to remove the upper mounts.
When you measure the height, it's better to go from the hub to the guard, that way it can be compared to other vehicles regardless of rim/ tire size.
it's four bolts holding the upper mount, and you have to remove the entire assembly and remove the mount to change the struts to adjustables anyway...
When are you guys gonna make the lift kit for the X5 E53?
Nice Video. Thanks very much fo this upload. Shouldn't you upgrade the stabaliser bar linkage to a longer one? but it gonna look real good with some bigger tires. please give us an update when they nstall bigger tires. btw any lift kit for the Audi Q7
Don’t you need screw glue on the nuts against plastic? I think the nylock nuts are for the plastic parts, the factory nuts should stay where they were at. I’m talking about the green spacer nuts.
Nyloc nuts are not for plastic parts.
17:40 "Alright guys it's worth mentioning you need a socket set that goes to 24mm..."
No problem, I have a Landrover Defender (a real one & not a pretender), my socket set goes all the way to 36mm :)
I also have a couple of large specials :)
All 1/2" drive... what else is unbreakable...
Would this kit fit on touregs 2?
I'm going to be lifting mine soon so thanks for the video. Gonna make my job a lot easier!
hello, what is the height of the rear spacer
SUPER AWESOME
💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
excellent video after so much searching it is the best and most complete video, step by step for the installation of the lift kit! congratulations keep it up! a new channel for my account!
Spring clamps, a big pry bar and a good friend was the only way i get the back ones in.
Great work! in the end what size Rim and tires did you go with? thank you..
This was super helpful! I'm going to try it now.
how much would this be in labor? I have zero time to lift mine but I can do everything else. I really wanna off road beast lol Im in the NYC area so please feel free to message me
prob 400$$
The detail that you supply is awesome.
Okay.. I got to watch this...
WOW what a pain. I'm glad my Cayenne S comes with air ride so all I have to do is flip a switch ;-)
my touareg has air and i'm adding a lift to fit 35s lol..
ya'll got a 5 inch lift kit?eurowise prices hurt
if you dont have air suspension then go to any local machine shop and have them cut you some pieces of 6061 aluminum and then you just head to the local hardware store and pick up some grade 10 bolts of the correct length for spacer size, then drill holes in the spacers and stick em in. you need to drop the subframe as much as you lift the suspension to maintain correct axle geometry, and with 5 inch lift you will need custom upper control arms that can adjust out the camber of the lift. you can put spacers on top of the upper shock mount as well as in between the strut and the mount. you can even fabricate some plates that extend the bottom of the strut fork mount which is a good idea to do, make sure they extend all the way up the forks and put bolts through all the holes, i have bent the fork mount off roading so it is good to reinforce it! all in i would estimate you can get it done for 100 bucks not counting the upper control arms which are just gonna suck, unless you can fab those. now i have never seen a 5 inch lift but there is also a chance you will need to extend the steering shaft and cv axles... best of luck, if you do it please make a video or two lol!
THE. BEST AND MORE. TO THE POINT. REVIEW. IS. NOT. EASY. TNKS. SIR. FOR. YOUR HELP. NOW. WE CAN DO OUR CAYENNE....BLESSED. BE. AND HY. FROM PUERTO RICO..WE WILL BUY THAT KIT...😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍