Hi Jim I'm doing the same job on a 78 gs1000 everything is well within wear limits pistons bores cams ect the inlet valves have a nice "pop" when pulled thro the guide the exhausts more of a whoosh is it normal for the exhaust valves to be that tiny bit looser in their guides?
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Nice one mate! I have an old Fireblade with low miles and I'm building a vapour blaster to work on it. Also go an old Vespa... Yeah, sorry about that.
🤣 Like I said in the video, everyone has an option on this! There is a very slim chance that the two nut method would work here, probably unlikely though given the original nut that was seized to the stud had the same opertunity and failed. Most of the time there isn't enough thread for two nuts, which was the point of showing this method. Thanks for commenting 👍
Lol, Jim has 30+ years of experience and correct me if I am wrong, used to have/work for a racing team. His work is outstanding. I don’t think he needs anyone telling him out to do stuff. Forcing the nut out without heat will knacker the thread or snap the stud, making the job million times harder.
@@Unedited2022 LOL. what I said would have worked fine. I've done it many times. The welding a nut on is perfectly acceptable also. however, as you seen it takes more time and prep. Also on the plus side, you dont need to grab yourself a £1500 welder. That's always a bonus.🤣
Hey mate I’m tearing into a gs1100 at the moment across the pond from you sorta say….full rebuild cyclinder took some water and sat for a good bit anyhow I appreciate all your dialogue and sharing your tips it’s much appreciated amigo keep up the good work and thank you for sharing
The clean-up was a snap with all those fancy bits and bobs at your disposal. Sure it will glisten like no other once you put the final touches on her during assembly. Looks like a Super Star even before you set up for her methodical re-assembly and finish. Brilliant work with the exhaust stud. Have a few of those joker's to fix myself.
Hey Buddy Keep on waffling Us the like to be educated love ya fuckin videos So don't take heed of the fuckin naysayers that say you waffle to much think they no it all They don't So for all of us that are interested in watching & learning to ya every day banter its too to hear Good man keep doing what you do very well
Valve clearances will change slightly when the cylinder head is torqued down as the forces applied will bend and move the head slightly , might just be worth checking at the end , after all this hard work building a superb engine
I always do a final pass with the Feeler Gauges before the cam cover goes on just to satisfy my OCD! 30 years building bike engines and I've never seen a change after torquing the head down? Maybe it's a car thing? Which I have absolutely no experience with.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Yes, your builds are absolutely very well done, can't wait to see this one finished, I imagine it depends on the head design , thickness, location of bolts whether it has studs that might effect clearances. But as you say experience is priceless and you have clearly gained lots over the years.
I'm very familiar with the Suzuki Vintage Parts Programme it's a fantastic thing. Unfortunately they don't go as far as restarting manufacture of Parts that are no longer available. And the programme doesn't cover all there past models. You can usually find any genuine part if your wallet is deep enough and you have unlimited time. Unfortunately I'm short on both!
Very nice work that engine looks in excellent condition inside the exterior belies this Is it correct that synthetic oils can cause the roller brgs in the crank to slide rather than roll and does that cause premature wear had a crank of that design in my gsx1100 an engine renowned for its bulletproof bottom end
🤣🤣 you haven't spent much time getting your hands dirty then! In virtually every situation if the stud has snapped off while trying to undo with the original nut. Just getting hold of it again isn't going to make any difference.
I think the heat has a lot to do with releasing the stud too. You'd have to hit it till its red and let it cool. then a bit of penetrant to top it off.
I have a suzuki gs850 from the same year as yours. I had to change the engine gaskets, so the valve pads fell out. I see that they have numbers. Could you tell me where to put them according to their factory number?
No two engines are the same. The shims are there to adjust the valve clearances. Every engine will be different depending on manufacturing tolerances, engine milage/wear etc.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV thanks for the information one question I want to tune up to be able to put the chain aligned the letter T with the fixed mark of the engine seeing that cylinders one and four remain at top dead center or I align the letter F.?
@@marlon45aries20 not sure I completely understand the question? "F" is the firing mark with no ignition advance (@ Idle) "T" is the Top Dead Centre mark. All this information is readily available in the service manual.
Jim Waffle away .What makes your channel so interesting and better than most😀
Willing to share your sonic cleaner fluid recipe?
Very enjoyable watch
Excellent job! Curious to know what your go to fluid is for the ultrasonic? I understand most common fluids will discolor aluminum
Where did you order all those gaskets and rings at the end of the video??
Yes we want long winded waffley videos and that's why we come here 😁
Ciao bellissimo lavoro, dove hai acquistato tutti i pezzi di ricambio, guarnizioni ecc...?
Hi Jim I'm doing the same job on a 78 gs1000 everything is well within wear limits pistons bores cams ect the inlet valves have a nice "pop" when pulled thro the guide the exhausts more of a whoosh is it normal for the exhaust valves to be that tiny bit looser in their guides?
What vapour hone nozzle have you got please, Jim?
www.sandblasters.co.uk/sand-blast-gun-with-4-nozzles-for-sandblast-cabinet-sbc420-and-sbc990-replacement-gun-164-p.asp
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Nice one mate! I have an old Fireblade with low miles and I'm building a vapour blaster to work on it. Also go an old Vespa... Yeah, sorry about that.
U had loads of thread there, just wind on a couple of nuts, tighten them together, and wind it off.
🤣 Like I said in the video, everyone has an option on this!
There is a very slim chance that the two nut method would work here, probably unlikely though given the original nut that was seized to the stud had the same opertunity and failed. Most of the time there isn't enough thread for two nuts, which was the point of showing this method. Thanks for commenting 👍
Lol, Jim has 30+ years of experience and correct me if I am wrong, used to have/work for a racing team. His work is outstanding. I don’t think he needs anyone telling him out to do stuff. Forcing the nut out without heat will knacker the thread or snap the stud, making the job million times harder.
@@Unedited2022 LOL. what I said would have worked fine. I've done it many times. The welding a nut on is perfectly acceptable also. however, as you seen it takes more time and prep. Also on the plus side, you dont need to grab yourself a £1500 welder. That's always a bonus.🤣
amazing work
Vapor blastin does some job on bike parts.makes them look better than new.
Hey mate I’m tearing into a gs1100 at the moment across the pond from you sorta say….full rebuild cyclinder took some water and sat for a good bit anyhow I appreciate all your dialogue and sharing your tips it’s much appreciated amigo keep up the good work and thank you for sharing
where did you order the gaskets and parts from??
Love these videos..I am looking into buying same model of bike to restore..your videos realy would help in my indever..
The clean-up was a snap with all those fancy bits and bobs at your disposal. Sure it will glisten like no other once you put the final touches on her during assembly. Looks like a Super Star even before you set up for her methodical re-assembly and finish. Brilliant work with the exhaust stud. Have a few of those joker's to fix myself.
Mr rabithoke is out with mr weeds
😂
Nice one Jim i learn something every time you do a vid O
Great to see you back..
This dude is awesome. Go in depth.
You aren’t just talking about pointless shit.
You have a swath of information and I want it!
Hey Buddy
Keep on waffling
Us the like to be educated love ya fuckin videos
So don't take heed of the fuckin naysayers that say you waffle to much think they no it all
They don't
So for all of us that are interested in watching & learning to ya every day banter its too to hear
Good man keep doing what you do very well
Vapor blasting & ultrasonic cleaners have been game changers for doing jobs like this, I recon the finishes are probably better than from the factory.
I Learn more from your Waffling, so dont stop. Keep up the good work.
Female Torx Socket, hammer and gas torch!
do u reun a business were r u based got a gs850g motor could do with a refresh
Yes we want to see it all an all of it thank you 🇬🇧
Spark erosion for broken studs.
Valve clearances will change slightly when the cylinder head is torqued down as the forces applied will bend and move the head slightly , might just be worth checking at the end , after all this hard work building a superb engine
I always do a final pass with the Feeler Gauges before the cam cover goes on just to satisfy my OCD! 30 years building bike engines and I've never seen a change after torquing the head down? Maybe it's a car thing? Which I have absolutely no experience with.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Yes, your builds are absolutely very well done, can't wait to see this one finished, I imagine it depends on the head design , thickness, location of bolts whether it has studs that might effect clearances. But as you say experience is priceless and you have clearly gained lots over the years.
Suzuki, like Porsche, has a programme where they will supply parts for their make of classic bikes.
I'm very familiar with the Suzuki Vintage Parts Programme it's a fantastic thing. Unfortunately they don't go as far as restarting manufacture of Parts that are no longer available. And the programme doesn't cover all there past models.
You can usually find any genuine part if your wallet is deep enough and you have unlimited time. Unfortunately I'm short on both!
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV where do you usually purchase all or some of your suzuki gs850 parts?
When is part 3 coming Jim, keep checking but nothing as yet.....
All filmed, just haven't got to the edit yet!
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Thanks for the update, have a good weekend.
Very nice work that engine looks in excellent condition inside the exterior belies this Is it correct that synthetic oils can cause the roller brgs in the crank to slide rather than roll and does that cause premature wear had a crank of that design in my gsx1100 an engine renowned for its bulletproof bottom end
Try filming through the helmet or a second one if you have it. It might help you catch the welds on camera
Jim great work as usual , l have missed your videos rock on would like to see that yamaha again.?
,
We would like to see all procedures..
stud could of been removed easily with a monkey wrench or vise grips
🤣🤣 you haven't spent much time getting your hands dirty then! In virtually every situation if the stud has snapped off while trying to undo with the original nut. Just getting hold of it again isn't going to make any difference.
Or you could wind 2 13mm nuts and lock them together and wind them out
I think the heat has a lot to do with releasing the stud too. You'd have to hit it till its red and let it cool. then a bit of penetrant to top it off.
I have a suzuki gs850 from the same year as yours. I had to change the engine gaskets, so the valve pads fell out. I see that they have numbers. Could you tell me where to put them according to their factory number?
No two engines are the same. The shims are there to adjust the valve clearances. Every engine will be different depending on manufacturing tolerances, engine milage/wear etc.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV thanks for the information one question I want to tune up to be able to put the chain aligned the letter T with the fixed mark of the engine seeing that cylinders one and four remain at top dead center or I align the letter F.?
@@marlon45aries20 not sure I completely understand the question? "F" is the firing mark with no ignition advance (@ Idle) "T" is the Top Dead Centre mark. All this information is readily available in the service manual.