Hey everyone watching this. Robert pointed out to me i had accidently given the wrong torque specs so i wanted to update everyone with the proper torque specs here. for the pinch bolt you are looking at 32-43 ft-lbs. The bolt coming in side ways is 94-126 ft-lbs. The last 4 bolts all get torqued down to 94-131 ft-lbs. I greatly apologize for this error. Also don't forget on final tightening to put in back on the ground for preload. Good luck everyone!
One of the clearest repair videos I've seen in a while. And your going back in a couple places where a step wasn't crystal clear was the icing on the cake. Nicely done. I already have my replacement LCAs, and once the weather cools down I'll come back to this video and knock them out.
Great video! I have an 03 Protege5 and there is very little online in terms of diy repair. Yours is the best for control arms. After doing mine I have two suggestions: buy ball joint bolts before hand. Mine we beat to heck and I had to go 30 miles to get new ones at the nearest NAPA in the middle of the job and getting the control arm rebolted at the back bushing was a bear! I found that getting that bolt started first then doing the front made it much easier. I must have tried for an hour going the front first before remembering another video that said to do it that way first. Your videos are excellent. THANKS!
Hey, thanks for watching! Ya, that back bolt is extremely tricky to get. I’m glad you got it done I know that 30 mile drive wasn’t fun but it’s good it’s done!
Hey JJ, me again. :) I did my driver's side LCA yesterday and I have a couple items to add. I think the torque you specify for the pinch bolt may be too high. The Mazda service manual says it should be 32 - 43 ft lbs, and that makes sense for a relatively small diameter bolt (compared to the other ones) and one that is "only" a pinch bolt. Where it may have gotten confusing is that the service manual lists two different, (but nearly identical??) torque ranges for the front and back bushings/bracket. I think *those* two torque ranges sound like what you cited in your video. Also, I tightened everything up barely more than finger-tight, put the wheels and everything back on, then put the car back on the ground. I carefully moved the car back a few feet then back again to allow that front bushing to rotate into place. I then put the car on ramps to get some space under the car while still keeping the suspension "loaded" (or whatever it's called) because you're supposedly not supposed to fully tighten bushings with the suspension drooping as this will lead to premature wear. You can tighten bearings with the suspension drooping, but not rubber bushings like the front one. Again, thanks for the video. It was a big help to me.
Hey thanks for your comment your absolutely correct just pulled up all data and it’s 32-43 ft-lbs. I must have messed that up. I’m going to make a comment at the top to hopefully give everyone the correct torque specs and shout out your name for helping. As far as having it under load you’re absolutely correct it can lead to premature failure (although I know a ton of shops don’t do this). But I always tighten it down then put it on the ground to torque to spec I wish I would have recorded that part but that’s still one of my first videos (still learning haha). I’m glad it was able to help you that’s what I’m trying to do is help everyone. Thanks for the comment. thanks for watching!
Why was it necessary to remove caliper and rotor? and then I hope you also torqued the brake caliper for safety. I will be replacing both lower control arms on a 2001 Mazda MPV this week. So your video was helpful. I will not be removing the brakes. I used two pickle forks together to raise the hub upwards/ control arm downward.. and release the ruined ball joint.
It’s not necessary in the sense that you must do it. It’s more of getting everything out of the way so someone can have as much visibility and working room as possible. Yes, I did torque the caliper bolts I thought I mentioned that at the end but, I must have left it out that was my bad. But, it sounds like you got a solid plan and going to knock it out! Let me know how it goes when you finish. I’m glad the video could be of help for you!
The key to this entire job for me was getting that LCA installed while it was *horizontal*. The only way for me to do that was to jack up the knuckle, which allowed me to swing the ball joint up so the LCA was level with the ground. If removing the caliper and rotor provides more options for jacking up on that knuckle, then it's worth it. Also, you can then remove that sharp disc brake shield so that it doesn't lacerate your ball joint boot. (I kept the plastic temporary cover on that ball joint boot until the very end to protect it.) Also, removing the disc brake probably made it easier for him to make a clear video.
@@haydn-db8z again, NOT necessary to remove brake stuff for the Lower Control Arm replacement. Lacerate ball joint boot? Just shove a towel in there. 5 seconds' work. Write me again, after you've worked on rusty old cars for 50 years. Advice to ALL readers..... DONT buy lower control arms on eBay. Those Chinese knock-offs are a few millimeters too Wrong!!!!! Buy locally, please and you can return them!
@@trevortrillion6037 I actually didn't remove the brakes when doing the driver's side LCA, but I will likely remove the brakes when doing the passenger side to make my life easier (precisely because I haven't been doing this 50 years like you have). Just a personal choice of mine and I've got the time. I got some decent (NOS?) Beck Arnley LCAs in a warehouse liquidation deal and I want to protect that ball joint boot since I won't be able to replicate the deal I got on them if I screw them up.
In my case the ball joint separated. Will I get hard time removing it as it is no longer attached to the control arm and I can't use the control arm to force it down out of its place. Thanks!
I hate to hear that. But I know you got this! If that happened to be I think I’d go ahead and take the tie rod off and remove the whole knuckle. That’s probably be the easiest way to get a good angle to work it out. Best of luck!
@@JunkyardJunkie thanks for the reply. If I remove the tie rod ends, then I will need to go for alignment, which I don't prefer to do at this time as it was good.
No as long as you don’t break free the jam nut your safe. the alignment will stay the way it is. But I do always recommended when doing suspension parts to go ahead and get an alignment afterwards anyways. Hope this helps!
I would call your local Mazda dealer they’ll be able to look it up real quick. Or take the other one out on the other side and take it to a store that sells bolts they’ll be able to give you the right thread and pitch.
have a 1990 mazda protege SE, replacing front control arm didnt take pics as i removed it and waited for days for parts have a 4" bolt and a 3.5" bolt that seems to fit in front bushing but dont know which one to use and for the rear bushing (on the front control arm) has a bracket with 3 bolt holes have 2 bolts same size and one longer bolt any body have any idea which hole longer bolt goes in ? any help appreciated thx
Hey I hope you got this figured out. I don’t know the answer. but, I will say take the 4” bolt and put it in both most likely it will stop before it’s fully into place on the one that’s suppose to be the 3.5”. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie I think the smaller one goes into the front bushing Have an extra big washer would that go into the front bushing someplace ? I think the 4” one goes in front of the rear bushing into the frame Don’t know if big washer goes there or not The three bolts that hold the rear bushing to the frame Two one size one longer one I’m guessing longer one goes into the single hole and other two go on the inside together??? Any help Is appreciated Thank you Can’t seem to upload photos now
Hey everyone watching this. Robert pointed out to me i had accidently given the wrong torque specs so i wanted to update everyone with the proper torque specs here. for the pinch bolt you are looking at 32-43 ft-lbs. The bolt coming in side ways is 94-126 ft-lbs. The last 4 bolts all get torqued down to 94-131 ft-lbs. I greatly apologize for this error. Also don't forget on final tightening to put in back on the ground for preload. Good luck everyone!
On the RR those are N-m values, not ft-lbf. The FR is 68.8-93.3 and the RR are 68.8-96.9.
One of the clearest repair videos I've seen in a while. And your going back in a couple places where a step wasn't crystal clear was the icing on the cake. Nicely done. I already have my replacement LCAs, and once the weather cools down I'll come back to this video and knock them out.
Haha thank you that means a lot. Awesome I have full faith in you! Thanks for watching!
Great video! I have an 03 Protege5 and there is very little online in terms of diy repair. Yours is the best for control arms. After doing mine I have two suggestions: buy ball joint bolts before hand. Mine we beat to heck and I had to go 30 miles to get new ones at the nearest NAPA in the middle of the job and getting the control arm rebolted at the back bushing was a bear! I found that getting that bolt started first then doing the front made it much easier. I must have tried for an hour going the front first before remembering another video that said to do it that way first.
Your videos are excellent. THANKS!
Hey, thanks for watching! Ya, that back bolt is extremely tricky to get. I’m glad you got it done I know that 30 mile drive wasn’t fun but it’s good it’s done!
Great video, thanks for posting
Glad it was able to help! Thanks for watching!
Nicely done. Thank you!
Thanks! Also thanks for watching!
Hey JJ, me again. :) I did my driver's side LCA yesterday and I have a couple items to add. I think the torque you specify for the pinch bolt may be too high. The Mazda service manual says it should be 32 - 43 ft lbs, and that makes sense for a relatively small diameter bolt (compared to the other ones) and one that is "only" a pinch bolt. Where it may have gotten confusing is that the service manual lists two different, (but nearly identical??) torque ranges for the front and back bushings/bracket. I think *those* two torque ranges sound like what you cited in your video. Also, I tightened everything up barely more than finger-tight, put the wheels and everything back on, then put the car back on the ground. I carefully moved the car back a few feet then back again to allow that front bushing to rotate into place. I then put the car on ramps to get some space under the car while still keeping the suspension "loaded" (or whatever it's called) because you're supposedly not supposed to fully tighten bushings with the suspension drooping as this will lead to premature wear. You can tighten bearings with the suspension drooping, but not rubber bushings like the front one. Again, thanks for the video. It was a big help to me.
Hey thanks for your comment your absolutely correct just pulled up all data and it’s 32-43 ft-lbs. I must have messed that up. I’m going to make a comment at the top to hopefully give everyone the correct torque specs and shout out your name for helping. As far as having it under load you’re absolutely correct it can lead to premature failure (although I know a ton of shops don’t do this). But I always tighten it down then put it on the ground to torque to spec I wish I would have recorded that part but that’s still one of my first videos (still learning haha). I’m glad it was able to help you that’s what I’m trying to do is help everyone. Thanks for the comment. thanks for watching!
Why was it necessary to remove caliper and rotor? and then I hope you also torqued the brake caliper for safety. I will be replacing both lower control arms on a 2001 Mazda MPV this week. So your video was helpful. I will not be removing the brakes. I used two pickle forks together to raise the hub upwards/ control arm downward.. and release the ruined ball joint.
It’s not necessary in the sense that you must do it. It’s more of getting everything out of the way so someone can have as much visibility and working room as possible. Yes, I did torque the caliper bolts I thought I mentioned that at the end but, I must have left it out that was my bad. But, it sounds like you got a solid plan and going to knock it out! Let me know how it goes when you finish. I’m glad the video could be of help for you!
I have to do this on my 2001 MPV in the next few weeks. It looks very similar to this. Any tips you could share? Thanks!
The key to this entire job for me was getting that LCA installed while it was *horizontal*. The only way for me to do that was to jack up the knuckle, which allowed me to swing the ball joint up so the LCA was level with the ground. If removing the caliper and rotor provides more options for jacking up on that knuckle, then it's worth it. Also, you can then remove that sharp disc brake shield so that it doesn't lacerate your ball joint boot. (I kept the plastic temporary cover on that ball joint boot until the very end to protect it.) Also, removing the disc brake probably made it easier for him to make a clear video.
@@haydn-db8z again, NOT necessary to remove brake stuff for the Lower Control Arm replacement. Lacerate ball joint boot? Just shove a towel in there. 5 seconds' work. Write me again, after you've worked on rusty old cars for 50 years. Advice to ALL readers..... DONT buy lower control arms on eBay. Those Chinese knock-offs are a few millimeters too Wrong!!!!! Buy locally, please and you can return them!
@@trevortrillion6037 I actually didn't remove the brakes when doing the driver's side LCA, but I will likely remove the brakes when doing the passenger side to make my life easier (precisely because I haven't been doing this 50 years like you have). Just a personal choice of mine and I've got the time. I got some decent (NOS?) Beck Arnley LCAs in a warehouse liquidation deal and I want to protect that ball joint boot since I won't be able to replicate the deal I got on them if I screw them up.
Looks legit
Thanks!
In my case the ball joint separated. Will I get hard time removing it as it is no longer attached to the control arm and I can't use the control arm to force it down out of its place. Thanks!
I hate to hear that. But I know you got this! If that happened to be I think I’d go ahead and take the tie rod off and remove the whole knuckle. That’s probably be the easiest way to get a good angle to work it out. Best of luck!
@@JunkyardJunkie thanks for the reply. If I remove the tie rod ends, then I will need to go for alignment, which I don't prefer to do at this time as it was good.
No as long as you don’t break free the jam nut your safe. the alignment will stay the way it is. But I do always recommended when doing suspension parts to go ahead and get an alignment afterwards anyways. Hope this helps!
I need that bolt in the back that you had a hard time putting on.
I would call your local Mazda dealer they’ll be able to look it up real quick. Or take the other one out on the other side and take it to a store that sells bolts they’ll be able to give you the right thread and pitch.
have a 1990 mazda protege SE, replacing front control arm
didnt take pics as i removed it and waited for days for parts
have a 4" bolt and a 3.5" bolt that seems to fit in front bushing but dont know which one to use
and for the rear bushing (on the front control arm) has a bracket with 3 bolt holes
have 2 bolts same size and one longer bolt
any body have any idea which hole longer bolt goes in ?
any help appreciated
thx
Hey I hope you got this figured out. I don’t know the answer. but, I will say take the 4” bolt and put it in both most likely it will stop before it’s fully into place on the one that’s suppose to be the 3.5”. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie
I think the smaller one goes into the front bushing
Have an extra big washer would that go into the front bushing someplace ?
I think the 4” one goes in front of the rear bushing into the frame
Don’t know if big washer goes there or not
The three bolts that hold the rear bushing to the frame
Two one size one longer one
I’m guessing longer one goes into the single hole and other two go on the inside together???
Any help Is appreciated
Thank you
Can’t seem to upload photos now
He forgot that lil screw in the shoe
What lil screw?