Welding Pipe With 6013, Uphill & Downhill
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- Опубліковано 11 січ 2024
- In this video I will be stick welding with 6011 and 6013. At the time of filming this video I did not know 6013 was not necessarily designed to weld on pipe. This is one of the reasons I love sharing things here on youtube and just sharing things in general, because I learn so much from sharing. And I know others learn as well. Most of my welding career has been pipeline welding. Before that it was lots of mig. So I have never had any reason to weld with 6013 or anything similar. Until I filmed my first time welding with 7014 video and got all the feed back from you, the viewers and from a couple other buddies of mine, I just assumed 6013 was similar to 6011. Boy was I wrong... haha. But fortunately, I can use my learning experience as a teaching opportunity. I hope you enjoy watching me stick weld with my sae lincoln engine drivin welding machine.
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Hey I am 73 and retired living in the Philippines.
All though I grew up around welders I never learned anything about arc welding. I have a lot of experience using a torch welding copper.
I took up welding when I retired building a custom truck.
I have watch tons of welding videos, but I have learned more from watching just a few of your videos than all the others.
I was recently given some 6013 so this video is very timely.
Thanks you so much for the education.
Us old farmer types used 6011 and 6013 to fix equipment with a Lincoln tombstone. You figured it out quickly. 5/32 is massive and puts in tons of heat. 3/32 would have worked uphill. Some 6013 has so much slag that welding is a b*ch. Some brands are better than others and a steep drag angle can help push back the slag, somewhat. 6013 can weld awesome on thick steel , hot and fast. It looks and works similar to 7018 and can look great. Tiny 1/16, 6013 can weld sheet metal to 18awg at 10amps. I love 6011 and use it constantly, ac and dc. I think it is slightly easier than 6010 and you don't need a special setting to run it. I'm not a pipe welder, though.
You know, I have run many machines but if a person is even building a bunch of pipe fence, THE OLE TOMBSTONE WILL WORK.
Over all I will take 1109 rod for almost every farm repair. Go in a welding store and ask for 1109 and get a good reaction. And if they say it’s 6011 just hold it upside down and say nope it’s 1109.
Makes sense now , some dude kept telling me about the 1109 ..... i did tell him i aint never heard of that there rod ol son ..... thats funny
I use the 0109 over the 1109. For me it is a far superior poú.
4107
@@markbroad119 i think you mean "h10L"
Arron 6013 is a flat rod similar to 7024 just not as much Flux and the Flux isn't adding metal to your weld like 7024 to weld pipe I prefer 6010 7010 or 8010 I'm not a 6011 fan even on pipefence most of my welding has been pipeline and compressor stations and heavy structural and heavy equipment
Same for me. Commented a ways back that I always hated 6013. 40 years later I figured out I was running it wrong. I thought it ran like 6011. Don't plan to use 6013 but if I have to now I know. As you say learn something everyday. In my case even if it takes 40 years 😆
Thanks Austin , you share so much good information that gives a person more reason to try a little harder and see that you can do better. It is appreciated for sure. Keep up the great videos and having fun around there. Fred.
6013 is a great rod love it. It's a down hill rod but you can push up hill when welding pipe it takes a little time to get familiar with it . Its awesome to weld dirty rusty metal .
It surely isn't downhill rod!!! Thin sheet metal and DIY yes, but not downhill! I think they sometimes recommend running it on Electrode negative (straight polarity) for thin stuff.
My dad, who was a 20 year pipeline welder and taught me, would have agreed with you that 6010 and 7018 were the only pipe rod needed 95% of the time. He did teach me to use 6013 but only on flats. My 4 years as a helper I only saw 6010 and 7018. I really wish that I would have become a welder instead of a truckdriver because I still love welding when I get the chance.
Over in the UK.. 6013 standard fabrication rod.. Used em for years, used to build 30 ft dia water tanks plus pipework.. Flat/ Uphill great all round.. Never go down.. Just puddle on floor or ya boots..
I use a lot of 1/4" 7024 rods on heavy equipment repair. They are great for flat and horizontal and have a very high deposition rate. Try some 7024 when you have a chance. It is quite different than anything else. Another really good rod for high strength alloys such a a514 and t1 is the 11018m Excalibur. They are a little more difficult to weld with and usually require a preheat. I really like the videos where you try something new and share it with everyone.
I used to use a fair amount on 6013 building "Ornamental "Iron" fences. It is great for welding thin material, sheet metal shops used to use a lot of them before so many people got MIG. If you tack together a sheet metal part with a long 90 degree CORNER joint for instance, you can cock the sheet metal part you are welding at 45 degrees and turn your amps up HIGHER than usual, start at the TOP of the joint and do a DOWNHILL DRAG. I would use a 1/8 6013 for that or maybe even a 3/32 if the material is very thin. I don't think I EVER ran any 6013 bigger than a 1/8 rod. I used a LOT of 3/32 6013 on Ornamental "Iron" fences. I would jig up a Panel with either 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch or One inch pickets, put the cross members ON TOP of the pickets, then tack the pickets on both ends, then tack the middle, and start at one end, and run to the other. I would use a 3/32 for THAT, and basically just Strike the arc, then do a drag after establishing the puddle. I would not raise my hood until I got to the end. It is EASY CLEAN UP when it is run right. It is easy to use actually, but if you have spent years running 7016 and 6010, it is different. It has iron powder in the Flux, and like you say, "Fill Freeze". They GREAT for the right thing. *If you try to run them too COLD they will let you know in a hurry* They are considered "mild penetration" that is what one needs for Sheet metal. Some people have told me a 6012 was BETTER for sheet metal, I tried THEM, I liked the 6013 better for the thin stuff. NEVER used them on a Pipe Fence, they are NOT low hydrogen of course, but they are good for the right thing. I used to weld the GRAY CAST Fenials with 3/32 7018 with NO PREHEAT (if the ambient temperature was warm), I had a very low "failure rate" doing that. Small gray Cast iron parts will weld to light steel easily and get GOOD RESULTS that way. 6013 WILL run Downhill if you have the right diameter rod, at the right AMPS, on the right Part, just Start the Puddle and just DRAG downhill with little or no oscillation, a straight drag will WORK and if you get it right the SLAG will peel off behind you as it cools. Just drag the chip hammer over it and slag is gone. Needs wire brushing anyway though. It is good on the right thing. To ME they are easier to run than a 7018. I NEVER run a 7018 down-hand. I READ somewhere, that LARGE diameter 6013 either in 3/16 or 1/4 Inch would be Coated with Airplane Dope and used in Underwater Welding on ships and barges etc. I read that a long time ago, I don't know anything about that. On fences I never used them, unless I ran out of something and was waiting for some more Rods. They need to be run fairly "hot" hotter than you run a 6010 5P
6013 I believe is the rod that is referred to as the "farmer rod" that often get ran with old Ac transformer machines. They are easy to re strike and people like them for welding thin metal. You can get them as small as 1/16, so they do have a place for tying to do thinner material with stick. I'm not sure what the heck you would do with a 5/32 6013. I think they are more of a do it yourself back yard welder type of rod, more than a professional welding rod that you would use for any type of code work. I have an old ac miller thunder bolt in the garage, your videos of tying out these different types of rods has me thinking about getting some 6013 and 7014 and seeing how they run on that machine just for fun. Thanks man
Hi
After using those rods maybe you remind us how they went !
In high school ag mechanics class, we had a slew of old Lincoln AC225 only cracker box welders and Miller Thunderbolt AC225s for learning stick. I can't even remember why now, but they gave us 6013s. I recall liking them and preferring them over 6011. Might have been because they were cheap, or more forgiving for newbies.
Red 6010 which is regular 5P is farmer rod because it will chew through rust, mud, dirt and all sorts of shit. That’s why they call it the farmer rod. The 6010 you normally buy is 5P+. Better product still chews through most things but less pin holes and less blowouts.
Hard surfacing rods are pretty fun to run every one you try seems drastically different from the last. Keep up the good work
I weld 6013 on gas pipe to class 1 in the UK, it's a lovely rod if you know what you're doing. Quite different to 7018 though. Super fluid puddle so uphill only, if you're using 2.5mm rods v.up you want DCEN and around 80a as a good starting point. Keep a tight arc and move the puddle around a bit to control the heat. Takes some practice but you can get some really great looking welds that will pass any x-ray you like. No need to keep them in an oven like L/H either
You can go downhill but you’ll have to weave it 😉
I love and hate 6013 at the same time. I like the easy strike, restrike and the smooth flow of the 6013. However, I always get flux inclusion, which is ugly. I wish I knew what to do like some of you who are doing really good 6013 welds. I have never tried DCEN with 6013. Thanks for the hint, I would try it and see how it goes.
@@AM-dn4lk if you're getting slag inclusions but the arc is running ok it's likely a rod angle thing. Because it's so fluid anything other than uphill it'll help to rake the stinger right back to 45 degrees or more and turn it up a little. The arc will force the slag back behind the puddle stopping it from getting trapped in the weld. Good luck 👍
@@samwhite1823 Thank you Sam. Really good advice from a very experienced pro. I would try your suggestions. Thank you for the response. Cheers.
@@AM-dn4lk no problem buddy 🔥 burn on
Austin,
they use a lot of 6013 in Europe for Pipe...you really have to keep that slag at bay
or it will give you inclusions and lack of fusion......and of course, it is almost the same as
7014, with 7014 having iron powder added......Rutile with potassium so it will run on
AC,DC+ or DC-.....cheers from Florida , Paul
p.s. it also is considered a low penetration electrode, similar to 7018 in penetration,
without the low hydrogen properties of 7018, so welding on higher carbon and alloy
steels, 6013 or 7014 will not give the tensile strength and yield strength of 7018....
Thank you for the education. I’m self taught, and learning as I go. Just a hobbyist at my house, trailer build and what not. Surrounded by ranchers so pipe fence building and repairs needs to be on my radar soon.
Life is about gaining knowledge to continually better yourself. Never be ashamed about how you gain said knowledge
OUCH!! 6013 as far as I am concerned is only good for welding flat plate...Thank you for sharing the video...
Really like your willingness to share. I’ve used 7014 as a cap rod on new fabrication projects trailers and etc. They put out a lot of metal. I’ve used truck loads of 6011 for all kinds of repair and making a root pass on fabrications projects. However since watching your videos and learning your techniques and about pipe I’ve found that 6010 and 7018 are a better selection of rod choices. Never was found of 6013 seems like the the puddle would run in front of the rod placement no matter the travel speed. And I found it’s a most definitely a down hand rod never been tempted to try uphill or down hill with it. I really like your videos and your sharing of your experiences. Thank you
Hello from Germany . We use 6013 RB12 electrodes for high pressure pumps and pipelines up to 350 bar. I use DCEP for roll outs and DCEN for uphill. also works great for AC. 7018 is hardly known here, even if it is in nuclear power plants. 6013 passes every ultrasound and x-ray test..
Welp, I am glad its not just me who cant seem to get 6013 to work on anything but a flat bit of steel. I just find it too hard to see the puddle properly, its almost like welding blind. Looking forward to future videos of your attempts welding with it, I hope you can figure out the secret to welding outside of a flat position and let us know :)
Thanks for the vote of confidence for me. 😂
You have to believe in the puddle, even at hard times when it is under a pool of slag :)
I really loved it that you shared 😮 all of it the nobody,s perfect and keep practicing ❤️ very encouraging 🦄💞✨🥰 learning
This is common thing especially with basic rods when they get stuck and break off flux unevenly. Usually I burn off a broken end at high current setting on a piece of scrap, then I clean the rod cap by rolling and scraping it against an abrasive surface at 45deg, this opens up metal core and creates nice chamfer just like on a new rod. This doesn't take a lot of time and better than just throwing rods away.
I second this. I would love to have all of his throw away rods.
He’s used to pipeline welding. They only burn about 1/2 - 2/3 of their rod generally
Austin, I purchased some 6013 5/64" rod from a local welding supply store
I'm glad you are man enough to admit you don't know everything there is to know about welding, and showing us your experience with a type of rod that's new to you. I do think it's good to know a bit about rod types you don't usually use. Sometimes I've found that I can't always get the type I like best, so gotta use what I have. Good to know! Meanwhile, since I'm not a pro welder, its nice watching and learning from others, and I really need to get out and burn more rod! I really need the practice. Still a lot to learn, for me at least!
Looks good from my house. Thanks for sharing 👌
Thank you for sharing. The local store I buy rod from. 1/8" 7018 is 60$ a box and 5/32" 6013 is 30$ a box. I was trying the 6013 out making a double tree for horses. Couldn't get it to weld because my heat was to low.
Im still a young buck welder but im slowly making my way in the welding business I tend to use 6013 on thin metal but have also used it to weld pipe fence and it has worked great for a caping rod i drag it and treat it similarly to a 7018 rod and works great
6013 is a good rod for fabrication if you don’t have a mig. The beads look nice and it doesn’t penetrate a lot like the 6010/11 series do. It can be used on thin metal as others have said. BTW I’ve been welding almost 26 years and I’m still learning all the time.
6013 RR or 6013 RC rod?
I love and hate 6013 at the same time. I like the easy strike, restrike and the smooth flow of the 6013. However, I always get flux inclusion, which is ugly. I wish I knew what to do like some of you who are doing really good 6013 welds.
@@AM-dn4lk I think it’s arc length consistency and cleanliness but I could be wrong.
@@AM-dn4lk can you downhill them?
Yes: you have RC rods; they are able to downhill, also weld through zink coating.
No: you have RR rods, neither able to downhill, nor to get a bead through zink coating.
Austin, good rule of thumb for 6013 is 1 amp per 1/1,000" of rod diameter.....
5/32 is .156" so 156 amps to start.....maybe 10% less on a vertical....
7014 needs a little more amps due to the iron powder in the flux....
6011 does not behave the same, and is more like 6010, so a 1/8" is .125"
but really only needs 70 to 90 amps....
since many of your viewers do not have big bad Lincoln engine drives with gears [ranges]
it may be good idea to let them know the actual amps to run their rods.....as saying 50 or 70 is a bit misleading....
hope this helps, Paulie
Thanks brother guess that’s why my 6013 don’t stick as well as my 6011. I don’t have it hot enough.
yes, but for the pipe thickness he was welding on, a 3/32 rod would've been the best at a range of 50-70 amps
Interesting, as always. 👍🇺🇸
I quit using 6013 since I discovered 6011 work a lot better on galvanized, or rusty stock, it works perfectly even on thin material, it uses less amps than 6013.
7014 works pretty good on mild steel, better than 6013.
For me, 6011 or 6010 are the most useful rods.
UK based here. I do mobile field repairs. Agricultural machinery ect. 3.2mm 6013 rods are my daily repair rod. I weld steering arms, hydraulic ram eyes, almost anything steel on a machine. If it breaks after I’ve repaired it then it’s a very rare occurrence.
Several things I have discovered welding drill pipe. I find 6010 and 6011 both work on drill steel. 6010 penetrates better at a lower amperage. The biggest thing I find is the magnetic properties of the pipe affects the weld and rod selection. I find that wrapping the positive lead around the drill steel cancels out the magnetism the pipe acquires by spinning in the earth I wrap my electrode lead 5-7 times around the pipe you’ll find the number of wraps may need to be adjusted. I find highly magnetized pipe blows out the puddles as well as causing the arc to blow out the side of the rod
Austin, get you some E-308L for a real treat and sluggish puddle.....or maybe some Nickel 99 for even more sluggishness.....great video Sir....have a great weekend, Paulie in Orlando.....
In a referance guide, the 3 shows to use stright polarity electrode negative, or ac. If im not mistaken, you stay set up for reverse polarity electrode positive.
Nice work, where do you get pipe like that for your projects?
I worked in a Metal Shop where we had a light (sheet metal) side and a heavy side. The heavy side built pressure vessels and tanks. The light side made a lot of duct, funnels, etc. made with light gauge metals. 6011 and 6013 were used only on our light side mostly welding on galvanized or plain steel duct work. On the heavy side we considered them junkyard rods. I'm retired now but work on my farm and sometimes weld some light gauge steel with 1/16" 6013. 6013 seems to produce a lot of slag and can get in the way of seeing the puddle properly. I keep a real tight arc and move pretty quickly on sheet metal with it and it seems to do ok. Our procedures on the heavy side were for all welds to be up-hand when welding steel. Nice try with using the 6013 on pipe. I'm sure you'll play with it for a while to try and tame it! 👍👍👍
Dear Mr. Ross 6011-@-6013 is an Ac welding rod. Also try Dc negative polarity. All ways step your 6011, giving time to let your puddle freeze be hind you a little. 6013 you can make small circles or drag flat. Uphill simaler. My Ag teacher thought us 6013 was best used in farming equipment, because of the iron content in the metal. Durible with elasticity. Great for hard faceing plow shers. 6011was mainly used in ship building in the early years, and some still toay. Hope I've been able to help you, would enjoy hearing from you.. your's truly N.Ellis.
6013 is what I learned on back in Ag class back in the early 80s. It also handles dirty metal well. I typically use 7018 for farm applications and 6011 if I need deep penetration.
6010, 6011, 7018, And Harris super missile weld for dissimilar metals and cast steel is all you need.
6010 and 6011 are both fast freeze, deep digging rods. 6011 for AC machines. 7014 I use for galvanized, as well. 6013 is a rod I could never get used to. Just could never get a pleasing looking weld.
Very good Video 👍 👍
Austin, I recently picked up a 50lbs can of Lincoln 6010 6p+ pipeliner and buddy let me tell you they are superior to 5p+
You may have used them before if not I’d suggest trying them out you’ll likely swap over to 6p+ from then on!
Hi I'm new to the channel, and suspect I might be back for more,,, I last did any serious welding 37 approx years ago, and haven't touched a stick since. But, ref your comments about learning, I haven't worked for the last 15 years or so, because of various medical problems. That hasn't stopped me from trying to learn something, doesn't matter what, just something every day. I only found UA-cam about this time last year. I have not watched any TV for the last 4 months at least. I'm addicted to it as there are so many different things going on that I like. So I've learnt from young people to people my age and above (68). You never know who can teach you anything till you try. I have a thirst for knowledge that I find sometimes overwhelming with what I can learn about, but I still try to pick up little bits every day. I saw a previous video of yours and was attracted to it because it was something different. I love the fact that when you struck the arc, all I was listening to was the gentle fizz of the arc, no splatter no spitting, just fizz. So I'll be back. Thanks from an oldie from UK.
Man my play days do not go that smooth. Not like i would see if i could make a nugget on the end of something. And u were pushing boundaries. Good out come bro. 6011 is my nemesis for now.
6013 ac thin material up hill/ super thin a quick down hill cuts down on distortion. I dont go to many other places with it unless im playing around.
Not a pro welder at all, but we learned on 6013 in high school on a Lincoln tombstone. Taught uphill
6013 loves flat and horizontal fillets and butts. Vertical up and overhead fillet are the only ones out of position I've been able to make it run in.
Hay Austin we always used 7014 . 6013 . And 6011 on AC machines like it works Best on a old 225 buzz box machine.
7014 as well
3/32 running straight is the easiest rod to avoid blowing holes in super thin walled pipe gates
I layed my first bead with 6013. I’ve never used it for anything other than to burn rods for practice. I’ll see what I can use the 6013 for at work as I’ll be taking a box with me to work tomorrow.
Some tech knee welds baw 😎😎😎 . I have burnt a many of those on some precision drilling rigs all over the gulf coast
6012, 6013 - 2.5mm for root pass if you really want to . But if you must to do it in EU we are usually use hand held amperage remote. Usually we use 7016 and 7018 for roots. There is a reason if you using 7016 and 7018 - they are expensive so if you put weaker root 6012 then cover with 7018 than overall cost is way cheaper. 7016 uphill root 7018 fill and cap that is wery comon in EU or 7018 all the way! It is nice to see that some one across the sea experiments with our technics like we do with yours!
I'm just an amateur. I like 6013, it's easy to start. It does seem to like a flat surface and AC current.
Why can’t you ark outside the bevel? I’ve always wondered that. I’m just a farm welder. Lots of pipe fence. Heck I do what I call a hillbilly bevel when welding pipe together. I put the pipe together end to end then I push a grinder disc in the joint to create a notch or bevel. Then I open the gap with a cut disc. It actually works pretty good on putting a root in.
Hi Austin, i love your channel been watching for years but dont comment much, im just a hobby welder myself, love arc welding and been playing with a bit of tig lately doing some stainless water tanks for a boat, i love your passion for the job ! Messing with the tanks got me wondering what the thinnest material you have ever stick welded or the thinnest you would entertain ? Have you ever used tiny rods like 1/16" ? Apologies if youve said in the past ive missed some of your videos, have to go back and binge them all one day when i get a chance that would be awesome 👍👍
6011 is “fast freeze” and 6013 is “fill freeze”. It would be worth looking up a rod comparison chart to see the differences of what the last digit of the rod nomenclature. Also what voltage is best. 6011 and 6013 work best on AC current. Check it out brother.
yes and no, I mean, 6011 and 6013 are way much easier than 6010/7018, 6011 are way much easier to do restarts or strikes again with the same rod without any much effort as well with the 6013 compared to 7018 and both can be run in DCEP or DCEN without any significant difference, and because 6011/6013 are easier to use than 6010/7018, here in Mexico are the most common to use, at least like 7 or maybe 8 out of 10 welders prefer 6011/6013, but not a long time ago 7018 are being push to use in the industry by code, but anyway the problem Ross had was the size of the rod 5/32 is way to big the that material thickness, he could've get away with 1/8 rod but for that thickness is 3/32 the right rod size
So like pissing in sibrea winter to like pissing in like canadan winter ?
Explain the freeze part
@@noah8877 it means that the melted metal will harden may faster than other rods
At the end of the day, there’s a very good reason why 6010 & 7018 are the prevalent electrodes in industry and construction! Now donate all those 6013, 6011, and 7014’s to the local high school shop, go drink a cold one, and never look back! I do have a caveat to what I just said. Watching UA-cam videos from other countries, I’ve noticed that several of them were using a green 6013 and getting better results than I’ve ever seen. A comment I made on one vid was responded to by the UA-camr who advised me to seek out ESAB Sureweld 6013. My local Airgas store ordered me some 1/8” from ESAB, and I can tell you that it’s a different animal that the offerings from Hobart, Lincoln etc., and I’d strongly suggest giving them a try! I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised, but probably not enough to quit the 7018 habit! I keep a couple tubes of the Sureweld on hand, and actually use them frequently!
6011 and 6013 are primarily for AC machines. It will run on DC but it runs better on AC. With practice 6013 runs really well vertical up and down. Flat welding is a dream with 6013. Keep a 20 degree drag angle to force the slag to the back of the puddle on AC.
Esab 50.40 runs all day Long Best on a Machine with a cel Setting and on dcep. Less spatter more Penetration . Ac only if you have arc blow , dcen only uphill or thinner than 3 mill
@@OldironmachineshopI was 12 years old when I landed my first full time job. I was working as a helper repairing logging equipment. We had a Idealarc 250 AC to make repairs. All we ever used was 6011 and 6013. I learned to weld vertical up and down with 6013 on AC, I never had a weld fail. That was 42 years ago. I’ve burned more than my share of 6011,6013,6010,7018 over 42 years.
I don’t think your 300D has a dig feature on it. But with some dig or arc force control you can mitigate that watery flux that a 6011 rods makes. If you turn it up the arc will come out stronger and throw that flux out of the way of the puddle just enough to keep that rod from going out on your preferred amperage
I used 6011 on ac on my bosses pipe fence works great for magnetized drill pipe. Found it worked better for me if I ran it hot and stitched or circles better then just dragging the rod
Austin, you're an excellent welder, you got away with a semblance of a weld bead even after doing two big NO-NOs with 6013. First NO-NO is going downhill, only a few selected 6013 allow this, almost all other 6013 do not, cause you just end up with metal/slag mix all the way down. Second NO-NO is going continuous on a thin metal (compared to rod diameter), with this rod you almost have to do it in spot mode and only go uphill.
What you git in that thermos Green tea? Put some extra scoops of Joe in there brother. Jk awesome videos keep em coming!
When commercial pipeline welding are they x-rayed?
You do good work do you also fabricate?
6013 works well in all positions, maybe try a slight drag angle downhill going down hill also keeps things from getting too hot and burning through. Here in Ireland 6013 is the by far the most used rod.
Hi! In Hungary 6013 is 30% cheaper than 7014 or 7018. You dont have to keep them dry, nor dry out them before use. Better is the electrode negative polarity. But you can use them with AC as well (in this case no magnetic effect for arc). And It is easy to fire up them with 45V open circuit voltage.
Vertical is hard with them. If mandatory I prefer uphill cuz flux flows like water :D.
6013’s more or less a sheet metal rod. Not really for anything like the pipe you were trying to use it on, lol. Live and learn, I had my turn with it working on dock repair some years ago. I wasn’t a fan of it either. The 6011 is just a “farmer’s 6010” but for an “AC buzz box”. Despite that, I could run it on DC like normal. I do find that 6011 works better uphill than downhill but almost always it’ll look like the ugly redhead stepchild that I was once upon a time. You can also drag it rather than stepping it. The amperages are similar enough to a 6010 though, for later reference. 80-130 for a 1/8” rod.
I'm green. what are you doing specifically when you strike the arc? it appears that you quickly drag it several inches to the start.
those burn thrughs are easier to repair on DC-, with 6011 as there is
less penetration but more build up on DC-...great for very thin [16 gauge and up]
repairs and fabbing......or poor fit up....and believe it or not, the 1/8"
rod is better most times than 3/32" due to the wider arc and not wanting to
burn through as much, even though you are at a higher amperage...
...I used to do a lot of gate and fence fab and repair around swimming
pools and gated entry systems...and the fact you can whip and pause ,
which will help with not overheating...
unlike 6013,7014, or 7018 which will entrap slag.....hope this may help..PB
Boy howdy, only 17yrs? Haha, I'm 32yrs in and still learn very day. I miss the smell of grinding disks in the morning...and get some guards on them grinders!
Who’d u test for
6011 and 6013 are designed to be used on AC current. 60ll has a softer arc. When I went to welding we run 6013 to learn how to strike a arc. 6013 sheet metal rod. soft arc as well.
6013 was the first rod i tried. Still learning 6010 and 6011. From what i understand is that 6013 is designed for thin sheet metal and mostly flat surfaces. So it runs with less penetration than 60110 or 6011 and it does not freeze as fast either. Think of it like a hot glue gun that sprays metal on clean surfaces.
Im just a mig welder that dabbles in stick and tig so ive used 6013 rods all my life on bits and peices then last year i tried 7018’s what a rod..i dont think i will ever use 6013’s again.
I haven't used 6013 in a long time but if I remember right it runs similar to a 7018. I have seen people weld downhill with it but it still seems like the runny slag would mess with ya. I have not used it much and not for a long time. I like the old 6010 and 7018.
I've ran 6010,6011,and 6012.Never had much use for 6013.Maybe I'll learn something here.
Didn't recall if you were running AC(didn't look like it) EP or EN, idk, I think would definitely dropped a size root? the 1/8 cover? and the play around with polarity and amps. Cut my teeth on 6011, 90% of the time it was used for field repair on busted farm machinery to heavy equipment ect. most of the time 1/8 and you just made it work. I like 13, been playing around with it as of late repairing a loader bucket and it works great out of position, and I do swap back and forth between 3/32 and 1/8 depending on if it's the loader bucket skin or the thicker part's, amps are machine dependent so my numbers probably won't apply. I wana say 80ish-130ish is a ballpark, of course as you know application is everything, pipe, repair, building spec ect.
Years ago retired now) I took every rod we sold and did a comparison board(4'x8'x12ga) , it was heavy as hell) of weld samples on different thicknesses of plates in butt and fillet joints, I could show customers how a given rod or wire looked. it was a project to build but had every rod/wire ( plus shielding gas for MIG/TIG) Airco/BOC product we sold. hell of a sales tool that was used with much success. experimenting is fun. Great vid, thanks 👍🏻
It has been my experience before the 1980’s and the development of flux core wires 6013, was basically a sheet metal rod, 7014 and 7024 were structural rods.
6013 was designed to weld through sheet metal to underlying structure. It's very low penetration, even when amperage is turned up.
I was always informed that on the farm 6011 was for welding newer pipe or metal,, 6013 was farmers rod as referred to and used for older rusty pipe or metal.
In my short life of 71 years, 6011 and 6013 was used on the farm mostly because of cost.
Its also good for thin flat metal
Pretty sure 6011 and 13 rods are commonly used in europe like we use 6010 and 7018. It's just a farm rod here in the states... runs really easy.
6011 is an Old farm rod the welders from back in the day called them they work very well on dirty not so clean metal and Rusty old metal and filling gaps in overhead welding and uphill its a fast freezing rod kind of similar to 6010 and 6013 we used to call it a confidence rod cuz beginners could use it and made them feel confident that they could weld and it looks like a 7018 pass when done and much easier to restrike then a 7018 but not as strong as a 7018 it's not ideal for high strength situations but it does look very nice and it is easy to use
I've been burning 3/32 6013 rods for practice. It's very forgiving, but messy.
I've only had luck running 6013 on AC. Seems to burn differently on DC.
I wish I pursued Welding I remember 6011 is Nickel stack hot and fast front back runner not a whip rod…. 6013 5/32 in my opinion is easiest rod to run. 7018 vertical killers me but I got my state bridge cert in New York and never used my welding attempts for anything
What works for me 6011 and 6013 with ac,7014 and 7018 with dc. Have some real fun try 6010 with ac.
saya biasa menggunakan 6013 hanya untuk plat baja uphill masih mudah,tapi untuk downhill butuh banyak trik😂😂😂
6013 is a very slaggy rod. The slag can obscure the puddle. For what you were doing I would have used 3/32 5 amps hotter than I would on a flat weld with little manipulation, just a stringer. The rod is so slaggy that when you try to whip and pause or side to side you can get slag inclusions. 6013 are great on dirty welds, say a gear box mount on a bush hog, where you have grease, dirt and rust that are hard to remove. I do not like them myself. They are just too slaggy.
Yes a lot of difference between 6011 and 6013 but in your business Pipe Lining how would you know. I use a 6011 followed with a 7018 for serious applications !!Cheers
I burnt 10 pounds before I started getting 6013
oh man, you were going down hill on that 6013....the slag is so light compared
to 7018, it is very difficult, as it is a fill/freeze rod......6010 and 6011 are fast freeze rods....
when going uphill, there is little slag to make a shelf to support the molten metal like 7018....
originally 6013 was designed for sheetmetal....
.I have worked on cars from the late 40's and early 50's which were stick welded....
long before there was MIG....
probably using 6013...
all welding is a learning curve....Paulie
its not stubborn its smart. it took me a while to admit that i only needed 2 rods on my truck. 6010 and 7018. if i needed any other rod i could load them for that day whether its nirod, stainless, 80t whatever. no need to pack oddball rods.
6011 is just 6010 for homeowners with AC only machines.
Need a little 3/32 weld it uphill kinda like LH just got a lot more slag and harder to read to puddle
Down holl BLASPHEMY !!!!!
6011 is supposed to be similar to 6010 but can be used with AC. I like 6013 for non structural welds like 1/4" tread plate decking seams.
Hello Austin
I always have problems with 6013
I have never been able to weld vertically or horizontally with 6013, because puddle heavily drips and sags. Maybe our 6013 is very poor quality
So pipeline welding goes as….. root pass, hot pass, cap stack or pass??
Bead, hot pass, fill, and cap
1/8 , 3/32
Is the size for that
And going up hill digs more and it’s easier to blow threw