220d and 228d are my favorites. I have my Dads 49 that i grew up with and I just bought my birthday lantern A51 and look forward to a complete tear down to light up. Love you videos. Thanks
I took an old 3/8 inch spark plug socket(if you can find a side on a round socket!), sliced it on both sides to fit over the valve,added a long 3/8 extension,strapped the fount to my old Workmate with the little orange feet and bike inner tube, and nailed it with my 3/8 inch impact drill(very gently!!).Out she came!!
Thanks Bill. We have a 220D lantern dated B of 1950 and my husband noticed some small differences between yours and ours. First, the lantern identification on ours is on the right side over the pump and is stamped on a larger panel. Second, instead of the pump screws being at 12 and 6 o'clock ours is at 9 and 3 o'clock. Finally, the green Coleman sunshine logo on the globe is very bold but lacks the "PYREX Made in U S A" on the reverse. It may be a reproduction globe. Any thoughts?
@@king.coleman Thanks Bill, This green Coleman sunrise logo over Made in U.S.A. is a Canadian 1962 globe. Confirmed on Old Coleman Parts blog. How it wound up on a 220D 1950 lantern puzzles me. It looks very good and I think I'll keep it for now. Unless I find a Made in Canada 220E or 228E lantern.
@@junelipinski2025 Toronto didn't make 228s in the E or F variety. Canadian 220Es are plentiful and kind of neat, because they were made in red instead of green. The Canadian 220Fs are a lot harder to find.
posted a pic of my 228f with metal case and the response was $5.00 was more than they would ever pay for one. works perfectly. $20 dollars is what I paid it and would buy another if any one wants to sell one. Am I stupid?
Great video Bill! I too use a buffing wheel on my clean ups/restos from watching your videos. It really takes the lanterns to the next level. How do you suggest cleaning the buffing wheels? Mine tend to get gummed up and leave behind a reside on polished parts. Thanks!
I haven't really found that to be a problem. Mine wear down before getting clogged up. If I am concerned about contaminates, I'll run a large flathead screwdriver into the wheel as it spins.
After a good scrub with degreaser and water, I put them in a citric acid bath for about twenty minutes, then cleaned with steel wool and buffed with a cotton buffing wheel and polishing compound.
Just finished my 1950 228D.
Another great video. Great lanterns. I have a 220 and 228 of the same month and year. Back when lanterns had style and class.
220d and 228d are my favorites. I have my Dads 49 that i grew up with and I just bought my birthday lantern A51 and look forward to a complete tear down to light up. Love you videos. Thanks
I took an old 3/8 inch spark plug socket(if you can find a side on a round socket!), sliced it on both sides to fit over the valve,added a long 3/8 extension,strapped the fount to my old Workmate with the little orange feet and bike inner tube, and nailed it with my 3/8 inch impact drill(very gently!!).Out she came!!
Nice work I enjoyed every minute and learn so much , thank you ❤
Thanks Bill your videos are very informative making the restoration process very easy to understand.
Thank you for this video, I’ll be following your steps 👍🏻♥️
Thank you! Looking for my own to restore now.
It would be nice if you could show your complete collection. I bet you have quite a lot lol. Brilliant as always bill.
You can see a fairly significant part of my collection here: ua-cam.com/video/kkZD9AIFjDg/v-deo.html
I use a crows foot with a 3/8 extension and ratchet to get the upper valve off, works great
Great videos thankyou audio could be increased
The D"s are great. The nickle fount makes all the difference.
Nice vid, as usual, I always learn something, thanx. BTW I missed it; what was rattling in the fount??
It's been a while, but as I recall it was a bit of rock.
Thanx, it was bugging me lol😊@@king.coleman
Thanks Bill. We have a 220D lantern dated B of 1950 and my husband noticed some small differences between yours and ours. First, the lantern identification on ours is on the right side over the pump and is stamped on a larger panel. Second, instead of the pump screws being at 12 and 6 o'clock ours is at 9 and 3 o'clock. Finally, the green Coleman sunshine logo on the globe is very bold but lacks the "PYREX Made in U S A" on the reverse. It may be a reproduction globe. Any thoughts?
Most models had a variety of small variations through the course of their production runs. The globe sounds like a Canadian globe from '62-'64.
@@king.coleman Thanks Bill, This green Coleman sunrise logo over Made in U.S.A. is a Canadian 1962 globe. Confirmed on Old Coleman Parts blog. How it wound up on a 220D 1950 lantern puzzles me. It looks very good and I think I'll keep it for now. Unless I find a Made in Canada 220E or 228E lantern.
@@junelipinski2025 Toronto didn't make 228s in the E or F variety. Canadian 220Es are plentiful and kind of neat, because they were made in red instead of green. The Canadian 220Fs are a lot harder to find.
posted a pic of my 228f with metal case and the response was $5.00 was more than they would ever pay for one. works perfectly. $20 dollars is what I paid it and would buy another if any one wants to sell one. Am I stupid?
Great video Bill! I too use a buffing wheel on my clean ups/restos from watching your videos. It really takes the lanterns to the next level. How do you suggest cleaning the buffing wheels? Mine tend to get gummed up and leave behind a reside on polished parts. Thanks!
I haven't really found that to be a problem. Mine wear down before getting clogged up. If I am concerned about contaminates, I'll run a large flathead screwdriver into the wheel as it spins.
Thank you
How did you clean the collar and frame?
After a good scrub with degreaser and water, I put them in a citric acid bath for about twenty minutes, then cleaned with steel wool and buffed with a cotton buffing wheel and polishing compound.