I don't think I used any female adapters in the installation. I do use bushings in conjunction with couplings on my transition points from galvanized to PVC to make the transition point stronger. Male and female adapters from PVC to galvanized never work.
The city here is making everyone comply with state code which requires an RP backflow preventer that is required to be 12" minimum above grade. They inspected the installation and have the backflow preventer tested after the installation.
The model is a Watts LF009. Here's a link: www.watts.com/products/plumbing-flow-control-solutions/backflow-preventers/reduced-pressure-zone-assemblies/lf009 Click on the find a Wholesaler/Distributor tab to find a store near you.
Thanks, What would a backflow unit like that cost and what would install cost? Mine looks much like that but burst this winter. Can I replace it myself or am I required to have a licensed plumber do it? (I'm in Missouri).
It is not just undet ground or above the ground. Each have its own functionality and level of protection. That is why here in texas you need to be licensed to install or even manipulate this devices. Not just a "handyman".
Your videos are awesome. If anyone has a minute to help me answer a couple questions that would be awesome. I've dug up a 1" copper supply line to my house. I need to tee into it for a new sprinkler system. I plan on going from the tee to an isolation valve (brass stop and drain) to my back flow and then to the solenoids. On the tee, should I do a 1" brass compression tee? Can I tee off of it with a plastic compression fitting (I feel like the answer is no)? The brass tee would have a female end, should I put in a PVC male adapter here to the stop and waste valve? Should I just thread galvanized right to the brass? I'm worried about them being dissimilar metals, but also worried about the durability of the PVC setup. All this will be buried, except the access to the stop and waste. Thanks for any advice!
+Jordan Dzubak I would go with a brass compression tee, then run a brass nipple from the tee to the stop & waste valve. I would run a brass nipple out of the stop & waste valve with a brass 1" elbow, then a short brass nipple running up. Then make the transition to PVC using bushings and couplings, not male or female adapters in PVC. You can see how I did a 3/4" stop and waste from copper pipe here: ua-cam.com/video/GPfprSq3LEg/v-deo.html
+iScaper1 Thanks for the reply. My only problem is that my tee will be underneath my front porch steps, so I would need to run the brass nipple about 2 feet out to the stop and waste valve for access. A 24 inch brass nipple isn't cheap. Any ideas? And then how should I make the transition from brass to galvanized to support my backflow preventer?
Great job! The city I live in just past and ordinances last year to do the same thing with the backflow preventer to be above ground.
I don't think I used any female adapters in the installation. I do use bushings in conjunction with couplings on my transition points from galvanized to PVC to make the transition point stronger. Male and female adapters from PVC to galvanized never work.
In what city is this being done ? What is your frost zone? Just curious.
cool video. what size are those test ports? 1/4 inch? anyway to connect hose to it?
Very helpful, thank you!
Nice, clean job👍
Thanks 👍
I heard that brass can’t be connected directly to galvanized, what do you think of that?
Galvanized to brass is okay, galvanized to copper is not.
The city here is making everyone comply with state code which requires an RP backflow preventer that is required to be 12" minimum above grade. They inspected the installation and have the backflow preventer tested after the installation.
What is the model of this new backflow preventer? Would you post a link to where I can buy it?
The model is a Watts LF009. Here's a link: www.watts.com/products/plumbing-flow-control-solutions/backflow-preventers/reduced-pressure-zone-assemblies/lf009
Click on the find a Wholesaler/Distributor tab to find a store near you.
With as expensive as these are it seems a union above ground those will get snatched. At least here where the system is drained a majority of the year
GREAT VIDEO Never have split ball vales again... Use FREEZE TOLERANT BALLVALVES..How to replace ball valve
If there was nothing wrong with the original BF preventer, why not just reconfigure the plumbing to move it above ground?
The city required a RP (reduced pressure) backflow preventer.
PVC to Galvanized should not be done with regular pvc pipes. For that purpose you will need special Schedule 80 pvc adapter.
how do you make that wonderful pvc pipe glue carrier?
Wish I could take credit for it but I bought it 10 years ago from my plumbing supplier. It's called a glue tote.
Oh. I thought you made that. Thanks for the info.
You can buy that basically anywhere, I would suggest HydroScape products if you live in southern california.
what happens if you are turning the system back on (after a winterization), and you have water coming out the bottom of the back flow?
It's normal to get a little water out of the vent went starting up a sprinkler system but it should quit after the air is out of the lines.
If it doesn't quit does that mean I have a broken valve?
Steve kerr
Try running some water through a zone first. If the vent doesn't stop leaking then you'll probably have to fix the backflow preventer.
That's what I thought. Thx.
Exactly right. PVC male adapters connected to galvanized fittings are bad also.
Thanks, What would a backflow unit like that cost and what would install cost? Mine looks much like that but burst this winter. Can I replace it myself or am I required to have a licensed plumber do it? (I'm in Missouri).
Good video. A bit out of my skill level and comfort zone. Going to hire a pro. Ty for the info thought.
It is not just undet ground or above the ground. Each have its own functionality and level of protection. That is why here in texas you need to be licensed to install or even manipulate this devices. Not just a "handyman".
Great job using the bushing. Too many people use Female pvc adapters on galvanized and wonder why it breaks. Nice job
to comply you usually have to have an ASSE certified cover as well
Is there any reason some states require above ground install? I prefer in ground.
I've noticed requirements change city to city, but most are heading to the above ground installation.
How much for backflow
What brand backflow preventer do you prefer?
Watts.
Your videos are awesome. If anyone has a minute to help me answer a couple questions that would be awesome. I've dug up a 1" copper supply line to my house. I need to tee into it for a new sprinkler system. I plan on going from the tee to an isolation valve (brass stop and drain) to my back flow and then to the solenoids. On the tee, should I do a 1" brass compression tee? Can I tee off of it with a plastic compression fitting (I feel like the answer is no)? The brass tee would have a female end, should I put in a PVC male adapter here to the stop and waste valve? Should I just thread galvanized right to the brass? I'm worried about them being dissimilar metals, but also worried about the durability of the PVC setup. All this will be buried, except the access to the stop and waste. Thanks for any advice!
+Jordan Dzubak
I would go with a brass compression tee, then run a brass nipple from the tee to the stop & waste valve. I would run a brass nipple out of the stop & waste valve with a brass 1" elbow, then a short brass nipple running up. Then make the transition to PVC using bushings and couplings, not male or female adapters in PVC. You can see how I did a 3/4" stop and waste from copper pipe here: ua-cam.com/video/GPfprSq3LEg/v-deo.html
+iScaper1
Thanks for the reply. My only problem is that my tee will be underneath my front porch steps, so I would need to run the brass nipple about 2 feet out to the stop and waste valve for access. A 24 inch brass nipple isn't cheap. Any ideas? And then how should I make the transition from brass to galvanized to support my backflow preventer?
+Jordan Dzubak
You can use galvanized with brass, I would buy galvanized nipples and fittings.
You think it's necessary to have some sort of license to install.
+Reys Landscaping
If you hire someone to install the preventer they should be licensed.