Thank you very much Joe! I've got my Nakajima All 8100 aligned thanks to this video. One thing to note about it, compare to your Olivetti's Segment shift, is the Nakajima upper case as two plastic bumpers on them, and that you can only see the bolt and the end of the screw from the top and not the bottom! At first I though there wasn't a lowercase adjustment, but it was just hiding on me. I hope this helps any future people reading on this video.
I suspect a lot of the Nakajima-made machines originally had those bumpers, but they get brittle and eventually break off, which immediately causes the alignment to go out.
An excellent in depth examination. This has inspired me to do something about the 3 typewriters in my collection with alignment and shading issues. My 50’s era SC Silent Super, my Olivetti lettera 32, and the worst offender, my Royal Quiet Deluxe.
This is an excellent resource video Joe! Once I reach a point in my life where I need to do any sorts of maintenance, will be coming back to view this again! 🙂
Another issue to check on the Corona 4 before adjusting height is something I found with mine. The rear rubber feet have a cone shape to them at the top, and one of these had a small nipple of rubber attached that was high enough for the carriage to rest on and to not allow the carriage to fall to its proper position. Once I noticed this, I cut off the extraneous few millimeters of rubber off the top and found the upper & lower cases aligned without any need to adjust the screws and locknuts.
Thank you so much! this was so helpful. I was able to locate and adjust the Upper-case alignment of my newly-arrived Sears Manual 2! I am also typing this comment using my Mechanical keyboard which is connected by my Galaxy Note 8.
These tutorials are the best. After watching a few of this "master at his passion" series, the confidence I gained in discovering that a person can keep these vintage machines working as new. I purchased a Smith Corona Silent Super. I am excited to put the deep clean advice offered into practice. Then I can begin practice typing on a manual again. I believe it will be refreshing to move at will, from high tech type algorythms and keyword triggers, to just rhythm of lo tech keys. .Liberating .
Great video. Can you show a 1960 Olympia SM4 alignment of the upper & lower letters? My upper case is a little higher than the lower case letters. Thanks!
Another Great Video, Joe! Unfortunately my type alignment issues are on a 1958 Remington LETTER-RITER. At least you have me headed in the right direction now!
So very helpful. I've been struggling with a 1976 Erika segment shift model. I have a moderate shading problem for upper case letters. It's so hard to know if it is a combination of factors including rock hard platen, sticking ribbon vibrator, sticking ribbon spools (auto reverse oddities), or an on foot adjustment. These challenges are simultaneously maddening and exciting - enticing me to try to master them!
I have an Underwood Elliot Fisher Co typewriter. l found the adjustments, the problem was the shift key, l removed it and bent it up slightly, Upper case is aligned now.
Thanks for your video, Joe. I am new to typewriters, so very helpful. I have recently acquired a Boots PT400 to use it. No major issues except a top shading. This machine is rather compact, I do not know where to start to clean/lubricate it and eventually open the back to adjust the keys. If you have any suggestions for this model, they would welcome. Thank you.
Great explanation. Could you do this kind of explanation for a Silverette / Royal Mercury -- which have the third type of shift mechanism: the tilt mechanism.
Is there a way to adjust the skipping on my Underwood Finger-Flite Champion typewriter. It seems that when I hit the letter “a” after a make a capital letter it would skip a space. Is there a way raptor adjust that? My typewriter is a 1951 by the way. Other than that, it types great. Thanks and I enjoy your videos. Great information.
I have an Oliver 9 that has had the platen and feed rollers replaced. Now I just notice that when key are struck it prints a shading above the "e" its from the blank upper part of the type bar. When I strike with less force it prints fine. But its hard to type gently sometimes! I was thinking of increasing the resistance on the keys? By replacing the center spring! What is your opinion?
One guess is the replacement platen is a bit larger in diameter, so instead of just the center of the type slug, where the letter is located, hitting the platen, it's getting a bit of the upper part of the slug also. If this were a normal design typewriter I'd also look at the vertical alignment of the characters - what is called the "on feet" adjustment. Is it just the tops of the characters that have the line? Is it just lower case, or just upper case, or both? You want to ensure the slugs are hitting the part of the platen closest to the ribbon. But if the vertical position of the slugs, relative to the platen, are too low, then the upper part of the slugs would also be making an imprint. A normal design typewriter has set screws for adjusting the printing position vertically relative to the platen. I'm not familiar with Olivers to say if they have equivalent adjustments for the "on feet" position. On some typewriters, you adjust the on-feet of the upper case first, then adjust the lower to match the upper. On other models, it's the other way around. But it sounds like a vertical alignment is needed between the platen and type slugs. This misalignment may have been present all along, but wasn't noticed until the platen was resleeved and the rubber is now a bit thicker, meaning the surface that the slugs hit is less curved, relatively more flat, making the on-feet alignment more critical. Good luck, keep in touch. I think I saw you post this to Facebook, too.
Hi Joe, I own a 1926 Corona 4. Lowercase is fine but capital letters clang and a couple aren't typing fully. Very light. I think they are hitting the type guide plate and so the imprint isn't that dark. Can this be fixed by adjusting just the upper screws then? I'd appreciate the advice. Thank you so much!
Hi Joe, Great Video! I am working on my 1924 UNDERWOOD No.5, and the upper case letters are consistently higher than the lower case. May I ask: where did you acquire those wrench sets?
Hi Joe, my Olympia SM was working normally and then when changing line it suddenly started upper shading, might that be a different issue or what you describe in this video? ( the ribbon has not been changed recently nor any adjustments made) thanks
The adjustment set screws for the upper and lower case (on-feet and motion is what they’re called) had tiny little plastic nubs on the ends of the screws, on these Olympia machines. The plastic tip can get brittle and break off, which causes the setting to suddenly change. The solution is to readjust on-feet and motion. The plastic tips were originally in place to dampen the sound of the carriage shifting.
@@Joe_VanCleave Hey Joe, thanks a bunch for taking the time to reply :) I found the cam and adjustable stop that control the height of the upper case letters, but the lower case stop doesn't seem to be adjustable. Do you know where I can find the adjustable screw for the lower case stop? Best regards, Atle
Hi, great video. I have a Lettera 22, but i can't find the point i can manage the adjustment. Mine Lettera is different from yours underneath. Can you help me? Thanks.
I currently don't have a Lettera 22 to look at. But take off the bottom panel and watch the linkages when you shift up and down. You'll see the hard stops for both lower and upper case, they'll be set screws with locking nuts. I like to adjust the upper case first, to ensure the tallest letters print evenly on the extreme tops and bottoms of the characters (if you set it wrong, the curvature of the platen means either the top or bottom won't make a strong impression. Once the upper case character print evenly, then adjust the lower case to match.
brill vid very informative, i am new to typewriting and found many of your videos very helpful. I recently brought a Erika S and the only thing wrong with it is the Lowercase "q", all the other letters, lowercase and upper case are all in line and work. it is a I have cleaned the basket/typebars and slugs but the problem still remains. it has a carriage shift. This being the case, do i still need to adjust the whole of the lowercase as shown in this vid? thank you.
How is the "q" misaligned, sideways, up/down or crooked? If it's only this one letter, I suspect the type bar needs to be "adjusted" (carefully reformed). I'd expect the upper case "Q" would also be misaligned as well.
@@Joe_VanCleave hello, the upper case Q works fine but lower case is shaded at the bottom, only the top half comes out, i have cleaned it 2 times but not 100% sure if i have done it well, thank you for your time.
@@mattpike3654 I’d recommend holding the Q typebar near the print position, then try carefully reforming it just below the head where the type slug is at, so the face of the slug is pointing slightly higher. Try keeping it from bending left or right. The slug should go into the slot of the type guide so it doesn’t contact either side of the slot.
Hi I’m unsure whether you’d be able to help but thought it was worth a shot. I got a typewriter - when I type, the top half of the lower case letter appears but not the bottom. I thought it was an alignment issue - however it didn’t make a difference in adjusting the screws, but when I press the slug into the page it will be perfectly aligned, but when I use the key, only half the letter is typed - is there anything I can try?
Make sure the ribbon is lifting all the way up to cover the entire character. Check the ribbon tension, perhaps it's too tight, impeding the type slug imprint.
I have been examining some old typewritten letters and I notice that a few times the when the writer hits the shift key for the upper case letter, the lower case letter following goes noticeably below the baseline, but the other lower case letters following are base aligned as normal. Is that because of a sticky ribbon?
It’s a carriage shift machine where the typist is rapidly typing the follow-on lower case letter before the carriage is completely lowered to its normal, lower-case position.
I have an Underwood Champion (I believe it's 1937) and my issue is regarding the type alignment. The capital letters type higher than the lowercase, and I can't seem to find the screws to adjust the alignment. Any tips? Plus it's a carriage shift btw.
I haven't worked with that model, so can't directly help. But I'd suggest joining this typewriter discussion forum (typewriter.boardhost.com/), or the Facebook Antique Typewriter group (facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/), where you'll encounter lots of friendly people who might be able to help.
Hi Joe, how does one adjust left and right instead of up and down? Letter j is a bit shifted to the right so that if one types ojoj it looks more like o jo j. But if I bend the slug a bit to the left then it gets stuck. Which way and which part should one bend in order to center the j so that it jojo instead of jo jo? Watched many of your videos but most of the time you adjust up and down but I never saw left and right except when you were fixing stuck keys
I’ve had to adjust them with a kind of “s-curve” bend where you bend the type bar further down toward the pivot, then bend it the opposite direction up closer to the type slug so the slug is again straight and enters the guide even. You may also have to slightly tweak the slug by pivoting it (a slight twist to the type bar) to get the slug perpendicular to the platen. Be sure to brace the base of the type bar so you don’t bend it at the pivot point else it may. It move freely. It’s a series of small adjustments.
@@Joe_VanCleave haven’t thought about s-shape binding you describe…yet I did some small adjustments here and there and eventually reverted everything back because jo jo was still visually almost the same as before (this is how it looks, no space there, just 4 letter’s straight)…and then I thought - maybe it’s just kerning effect? Some words like “adjust” or “major” look ok, and the typebar hits perpendicular and already to the left edge of the opening…how does it look for you, the j between two o? Maybe it is normal?
@@Joe_VanCleave I did! oaoa looks good for example. I found one of your videos with Corona Smith silent super review where you show the type test - and there you have hj and ij that have visually too wide gap. How is it for you if you type ojoj and ajaj - does it look like one word? P.S. thank you so much for your replies btw!
Hi Joe, I adjusted my lower cases but the letter a is still lower shaded. I understand rolling pliers can help with that, but I don't have one. Is there something I can do without that tool?
Is the rest of the character set printing okay, both upper and lower case, without shading? If so, you can delicately form the type bar with plyers or your hands. If the bottom of the "a" is shaded, the type slug needs to hit the platen a bit higher.
The type bars for those two keys will need to be carefully "reformed" or bent. Technicians used special tools to carefully do this. When the type slug is touching the platen, it should be reformed so the top edge is a little away from the paper, and therefore not making an imprint. You want the main character itself to make a solid imprint but not the excess above it. Do the bottom of these letters print a bit faint? I'd expect it to be faint, if indeed the type slugs need to be bent back slightly. Only do this very slightly and gently. The parts could be brittle. You could use thin pliers to immobilize parts of the type bar linkage, so you're only reforming one section. Also be aware the type slugs are soldered onto the type bars, and the solder is a weak point. Good luck.
Fantastically helpful! Loved the thorough drawings for additional clarity.
Thank you very much Joe! I've got my Nakajima All 8100 aligned thanks to this video. One thing to note about it, compare to your Olivetti's Segment shift, is the Nakajima upper case as two plastic bumpers on them, and that you can only see the bolt and the end of the screw from the top and not the bottom! At first I though there wasn't a lowercase adjustment, but it was just hiding on me. I hope this helps any future people reading on this video.
I suspect a lot of the Nakajima-made machines originally had those bumpers, but they get brittle and eventually break off, which immediately causes the alignment to go out.
Thank you for making this video, i was able to fix the alignment issue kn my typewriter by watching this.
Thanks so much for this detailed and crystal-clear video! Well on the way to getting my Baby Empire DeLuxe back on its feet!!
Your videos are the absolute best Joe!
Thanks for the informative video it just saved me a trip to the repair shop.
An excellent in depth examination. This has inspired me to do something about the 3 typewriters in my collection with alignment and shading issues. My 50’s era SC Silent Super, my Olivetti lettera 32, and the worst offender, my Royal Quiet Deluxe.
Excellent and Clear Explanation 🙂👍
This is an excellent resource video Joe! Once I reach a point in my life where I need to do any sorts of maintenance, will be coming back to view this again! 🙂
Another issue to check on the Corona 4 before adjusting height is something I found with mine. The rear rubber feet have a cone shape to them at the top, and one of these had a small nipple of rubber attached that was high enough for the carriage to rest on and to not allow the carriage to fall to its proper position. Once I noticed this, I cut off the extraneous few millimeters of rubber off the top and found the upper & lower cases aligned without any need to adjust the screws and locknuts.
Great advice Joe, working on a Hermes with exactly these issues, takes some time adjusting both same but getting better. Thanks for sharing.
Great explanation. I've been trying to figure out how to solve this problem and can't wait to try out your suggestions.
Great advice. Thank you.
Now I am going to give it a try on my Remington Standard 12
Beautiful and helpful video, thank you SO much!
Thank you so much! this was so helpful. I was able to locate and adjust the Upper-case alignment of my newly-arrived Sears Manual 2! I am also typing this comment using my Mechanical keyboard which is connected by my Galaxy Note 8.
These tutorials are the best. After watching a few of this "master at his passion" series, the confidence I gained in discovering that a person can keep these vintage machines working as new. I purchased a Smith Corona Silent Super. I am excited to put the deep clean advice offered into practice. Then I can begin practice typing on a manual again. I believe it will be refreshing to move at will, from high tech type algorythms and keyword triggers, to just rhythm of lo tech keys. .Liberating .
Another great and informative video!!! Thanks you for it!!
Great video. Can you show a 1960 Olympia SM4 alignment of the upper & lower letters? My upper case is a little higher than the lower case letters. Thanks!
Another Great Video, Joe! Unfortunately my type alignment issues are on a 1958 Remington LETTER-RITER. At least you have me headed in the right direction now!
So very helpful. I've been struggling with a 1976 Erika segment shift model. I have a moderate shading problem for upper case letters. It's so hard to know if it is a combination of factors including rock hard platen, sticking ribbon vibrator, sticking ribbon spools (auto reverse oddities), or an on foot adjustment. These challenges are simultaneously maddening and exciting - enticing me to try to master them!
Joe, ignitions wrenches (spanners) will do the job
Well said Joe
What you call "Shading" is called "type on feet" and the shift adjustment is called the "motion".
I have an Underwood Elliot Fisher Co typewriter. l found the adjustments, the problem was the shift key, l removed it and bent it up slightly, Upper case is aligned now.
Thanks for your video, Joe. I am new to typewriters, so very helpful. I have recently acquired a Boots PT400 to use it. No major issues except a top shading. This machine is rather compact, I do not know where to start to clean/lubricate it and eventually open the back to adjust the keys. If you have any suggestions for this model, they would welcome. Thank you.
Great explanation. Could you do this kind of explanation for a Silverette / Royal Mercury -- which have the third type of shift mechanism: the tilt mechanism.
Very informative. Thank you!
Does anyone know what is the type and/or typewriter used in the upper part of the page at 11:44 "June 6, ..." ?
Is there a way to adjust the skipping on my Underwood Finger-Flite Champion typewriter. It seems that when I hit the letter “a” after a make a capital letter it would skip a space. Is there a way raptor adjust that? My typewriter is a 1951 by the way. Other than that, it types great. Thanks and I enjoy your videos. Great information.
I have an Oliver 9 that has had the platen and feed rollers replaced. Now I just notice that when key are struck it prints a shading above the "e" its from the blank upper part of the type bar. When I strike with less force it prints fine. But its hard to type gently sometimes! I was thinking of increasing the resistance on the keys? By replacing the center spring! What is your opinion?
One guess is the replacement platen is a bit larger in diameter, so instead of just the center of the type slug, where the letter is located, hitting the platen, it's getting a bit of the upper part of the slug also.
If this were a normal design typewriter I'd also look at the vertical alignment of the characters - what is called the "on feet" adjustment. Is it just the tops of the characters that have the line? Is it just lower case, or just upper case, or both? You want to ensure the slugs are hitting the part of the platen closest to the ribbon. But if the vertical position of the slugs, relative to the platen, are too low, then the upper part of the slugs would also be making an imprint. A normal design typewriter has set screws for adjusting the printing position vertically relative to the platen. I'm not familiar with Olivers to say if they have equivalent adjustments for the "on feet" position.
On some typewriters, you adjust the on-feet of the upper case first, then adjust the lower to match the upper. On other models, it's the other way around. But it sounds like a vertical alignment is needed between the platen and type slugs. This misalignment may have been present all along, but wasn't noticed until the platen was resleeved and the rubber is now a bit thicker, meaning the surface that the slugs hit is less curved, relatively more flat, making the on-feet alignment more critical.
Good luck, keep in touch. I think I saw you post this to Facebook, too.
Hi, I have a royal diana which seems to be a bit different, could you advise me on this? Thanks
Do you have a video on lubricating an olivetti type writer? Would sewing machine oil be a good idea?
Hi Joe, I own a 1926 Corona 4. Lowercase is fine but capital letters clang and a couple aren't typing fully. Very light. I think they are hitting the type guide plate and so the imprint isn't that dark. Can this be fixed by adjusting just the upper screws then? I'd appreciate the advice. Thank you so much!
How to properly adjust crooked type not misaligned?
Hi Joe, Great Video! I am working on my 1924 UNDERWOOD No.5, and the upper case letters are consistently higher than the lower case. May I ask: where did you acquire those wrench sets?
I believe I got them at either Lowe’s or Tru-Value hardware stores, both metric and SAE.
@@Joe_VanCleave Thanks, Joe! I hope to he able to meet you in person if I ever get down to Albuquerque again.
Hi Joe, my Olympia SM was working normally and then when changing line it suddenly started upper shading, might that be a different issue or what you describe in this video? ( the ribbon has not been changed recently nor any adjustments made) thanks
The adjustment set screws for the upper and lower case (on-feet and motion is what they’re called) had tiny little plastic nubs on the ends of the screws, on these Olympia machines. The plastic tip can get brittle and break off, which causes the setting to suddenly change. The solution is to readjust on-feet and motion. The plastic tips were originally in place to dampen the sound of the carriage shifting.
@@Joe_VanCleave Thank you for the prompt reply.
What kind of open ended wrenches are those? I can never seem to find any small enough
Hello Joe, thank you for a great video! Do you have any advice on how to adjust the alignment on a Hermes 3000 you'd like to share with us?
There’s a rotating arm, like a cam, under the machine, that controls the on-feet and motion.
@@Joe_VanCleave Hey Joe, thanks a bunch for taking the time to reply :) I found the cam and adjustable stop that control the height of the upper case letters, but the lower case stop doesn't seem to be adjustable. Do you know where I can find the adjustable screw for the lower case stop? Best regards, Atle
Does the olivetti have spool covers?
Hi, great video. I have a Lettera 22, but i can't find the point i can manage the adjustment. Mine Lettera is different from yours underneath. Can you help me? Thanks.
I currently don't have a Lettera 22 to look at. But take off the bottom panel and watch the linkages when you shift up and down. You'll see the hard stops for both lower and upper case, they'll be set screws with locking nuts. I like to adjust the upper case first, to ensure the tallest letters print evenly on the extreme tops and bottoms of the characters (if you set it wrong, the curvature of the platen means either the top or bottom won't make a strong impression. Once the upper case character print evenly, then adjust the lower case to match.
Ok, thank you. I think i find where to adjust. The regulation are on the top of the machine. Thank you for explanation.
If the ribbon is blocking when I type in lowercase, I can’t see what I’m typing. But I can see just fine when in all caps. Will this adjustment help?
No, it sounds like the ribbon vibrator or operating linkage needs adjustment so the ribbon stays down.
brill vid very informative, i am new to typewriting and found many of your videos very helpful. I recently brought a Erika S and the only thing wrong with it is the Lowercase "q", all the other letters, lowercase and upper case are all in line and work. it is a I have cleaned the basket/typebars and slugs but the problem still remains. it has a carriage shift. This being the case, do i still need to adjust the whole of the lowercase as shown in this vid? thank you.
How is the "q" misaligned, sideways, up/down or crooked? If it's only this one letter, I suspect the type bar needs to be "adjusted" (carefully reformed). I'd expect the upper case "Q" would also be misaligned as well.
@@Joe_VanCleave hello, the upper case Q works fine but lower case is shaded at the bottom, only the top half comes out, i have cleaned it 2 times but not 100% sure if i have done it well, thank you for your time.
@@mattpike3654 I’d recommend holding the Q typebar near the print position, then try carefully reforming it just below the head where the type slug is at, so the face of the slug is pointing slightly higher. Try keeping it from bending left or right. The slug should go into the slot of the type guide so it doesn’t contact either side of the slot.
@@Joe_VanCleave okay I'll try that, thank you very much for your help
Joe, I have a 1940s Royal QDL, and for the life of me, I cannot locate the screws to make the adjustments. Can you help a brother out?
Hi I’m unsure whether you’d be able to help but thought it was worth a shot. I got a typewriter - when I type, the top half of the lower case letter appears but not the bottom. I thought it was an alignment issue - however it didn’t make a difference in adjusting the screws, but when I press the slug into the page it will be perfectly aligned, but when I use the key, only half the letter is typed - is there anything I can try?
Make sure the ribbon is lifting all the way up to cover the entire character. Check the ribbon tension, perhaps it's too tight, impeding the type slug imprint.
I have been examining some old typewritten letters and I notice that a few times the when the writer hits the shift key for the upper case letter, the lower case letter following goes noticeably below the baseline, but the other lower case letters following are base aligned as normal. Is that because of a sticky ribbon?
It’s a carriage shift machine where the typist is rapidly typing the follow-on lower case letter before the carriage is completely lowered to its normal, lower-case position.
I have an Underwood Champion (I believe it's 1937) and my issue is regarding the type alignment. The capital letters type higher than the lowercase, and I can't seem to find the screws to adjust the alignment. Any tips? Plus it's a carriage shift btw.
I haven't worked with that model, so can't directly help. But I'd suggest joining this typewriter discussion forum (typewriter.boardhost.com/), or the Facebook Antique Typewriter group (facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/), where you'll encounter lots of friendly people who might be able to help.
Joe Van Cleave thanks!
Hi Joe, how does one adjust left and right instead of up and down? Letter j is a bit shifted to the right so that if one types ojoj it looks more like o jo j. But if I bend the slug a bit to the left then it gets stuck. Which way and which part should one bend in order to center the j so that it jojo instead of jo jo? Watched many of your videos but most of the time you adjust up and down but I never saw left and right except when you were fixing stuck keys
I’ve had to adjust them with a kind of “s-curve” bend where you bend the type bar further down toward the pivot, then bend it the opposite direction up closer to the type slug so the slug is again straight and enters the guide even. You may also have to slightly tweak the slug by pivoting it (a slight twist to the type bar) to get the slug perpendicular to the platen. Be sure to brace the base of the type bar so you don’t bend it at the pivot point else it may. It move freely. It’s a series of small adjustments.
@@Joe_VanCleave haven’t thought about s-shape binding you describe…yet I did some small adjustments here and there and eventually reverted everything back because jo jo was still visually almost the same as before (this is how it looks, no space there, just 4 letter’s straight)…and then I thought - maybe it’s just kerning effect? Some words like “adjust” or “major” look ok, and the typebar hits perpendicular and already to the left edge of the opening…how does it look for you, the j between two o? Maybe it is normal?
@@zholud Maybe the “O” is off center the other direction? Compare with a number of different letters.
@@Joe_VanCleave I did! oaoa looks good for example. I found one of your videos with Corona Smith silent super review where you show the type test - and there you have hj and ij that have visually too wide gap. How is it for you if you type ojoj and ajaj - does it look like one word? P.S. thank you so much for your replies btw!
Hi Joe, I adjusted my lower cases but the letter a is still lower shaded. I understand rolling pliers can help with that, but I don't have one. Is there something I can do without that tool?
Is the rest of the character set printing okay, both upper and lower case, without shading? If so, you can delicately form the type bar with plyers or your hands. If the bottom of the "a" is shaded, the type slug needs to hit the platen a bit higher.
@@Joe_VanCleave I was hesitant to try that before, but now I did, and it worked well enough. Thanks a lot, Joe.
Never start working before the video is done
y fuera la corona 3????????????????????
Or, some one has decreased the diameter of the platen
Its just two letters that have this issue the rest is fine! The E and the P. Nobody was able to help on face book
The type bars for those two keys will need to be carefully "reformed" or bent. Technicians used special tools to carefully do this. When the type slug is touching the platen, it should be reformed so the top edge is a little away from the paper, and therefore not making an imprint. You want the main character itself to make a solid imprint but not the excess above it.
Do the bottom of these letters print a bit faint? I'd expect it to be faint, if indeed the type slugs need to be bent back slightly.
Only do this very slightly and gently. The parts could be brittle. You could use thin pliers to immobilize parts of the type bar linkage, so you're only reforming one section. Also be aware the type slugs are soldered onto the type bars, and the solder is a weak point. Good luck.
I got a tool for a typewriter that you have never seen