Great job! You will be so impressed with the improved taste from this method you will never look back and maybe even all grain eventually! You did an amazing job on explaining the procedures and giving some really good advice along the way. I made beer like this many times before going to all grain. It is very rewarding! Yes, the smells of wort, hops, & grains are incredible . Good job man!
Re-watching these videos :) Just wanted to thank you for the inspiration of getting me into brewing, been doing it for over 2 years now with my dad, I'm never gonna stop!
Love the HD video Craig! I was really excited for you on this because I had so much fun doing it myself. Cheers! Oh, and if you are ever worried about temp control/swings and have an extra rubbermaid tote lying around, just put your fermentor in it and fill the tote to the beer level with water. It will help stabilize your temperature for those of you without basements or fridges to keep the temp stable. It will also help keep your beer at room temp since it acts like a heat sink. Cheers!
@CraigTube Oh, yes, you are right, it was the hops. Guess they didn't tell you to strain them out while transferring to the fermenter. Kudos to JoeMalone for sending it to you, but it doesn't seem to have come with fantastic instructions, etc. Again, you are so much braver than I was when I did my first partial, LOL!! You rock Craig!!!!
thanks for the vid... an encouragement to this novice tin-can brewer starting to look at the next step! have had some success with higher octane beers, now looking for that flavor balance. keep it coming!
@steeljan The bulk of the grains were crystal, they don't require conversion. Honey malt ideally needs to be mashed but think the attitude is that of oats or flaked barley, it's acceptable to steep. Pale, 2-row and Munich are a few you won't find a gray area, you'll need a sach rest (155F) for conversion.
Back in the day that's how we did it, fermented with sludge and all. Just rack to a carboy after peak fermentation and that will left a manageable amount of trub before kegging/bottling.
@PeiHomeBrewer It is a malty beer. there is no need for the late addition hops, but you can add them to give a little more hop aroma. But like Craig said, this particular kit did not call for it. but you can always adapt a kit to what you want it to be. If he likes this one and feels like it needs some hop aroma then he can add a 1/2 oz at the end.
Craig, Another interesting and informative vid... Looks like more involvement than my level of interest in the "craftsmanship of beer making". Maybe too, being a Renaisance/Multi-Trades man, hinders my interest in concentrated indepth practice of a craft like"brewing beer". Maybe I'm just a half step away from "store bought beer consumer"... A half-step is enough of a difference to satisfy my taste.This past year I have bottled 108 Gallons of "customized kit beer". I may try dry hopping next...
The sludge is just a mixture of proteins and hop particles. Some people strain it out when tranfering the wort to fermenter. Some people don't. Generally it won't hurt anything and settles out.
@steeljan I just did a partial grain. The instructions told me to steep the grains overnight in cold water. I guess it extracts more goodness from the grains. I also did a "sparge" into my fermenting bucket, whic also gave more goodness. Just placed a strainer on top of the bucket and poured warm water over the grains. I don't think there is one set way to do grains. The sediment is from the fresh hops.
hey cool vid craig...I'll be doing a "real" partial myself soon ,after doing a "semi" partial w while back.. Partials are interesting to the tin canners looking to voyage to the next step ..cheers!
@CraigTube - Its a malt-forward ale so you're right Craig, its all bittering hops ( in an attempt at balance of the malt ) with no flavor or aroma hops, because they want the malt flavor on the top!
@steeljan Hops at the end is for aroma. Again, no set way to do grain brewing. It's to each his own. You can tweak the recipe any way you want. It's all about the final product and how you want it to turn out. If you have 100 brewers brewiing a batch, I'd guess you'd have at least 55 different ways to brew.
Fan-f-ing-tastic! You are one brave man to video your first adventure into grains. So much here I don't understand, like why that kit had you put the grains into such a small nylon bag, it should have been much bigger or muslin, to allow more water to get to the grains. Why on earth did they have you put the grains straight into cold water instead of bring it up to 155F or so first for the 30 minute steep?? And I have no idea what that sludge was in your pot, never seen that before, lol.
Also see you've picked up on DanoSongs gotcom music, I've been using him since making new videos here on youtube. Great Free Royalty-free music with DanoSongs dotcom. Great guy.
@78recordrepair - I second that. Trying to strain your wort usually is alot more hassle than its worth. I KNOW that secondary fermenters aren't necessary, but I use them ( the way the Pro's use "bright tanks" ) and it is far easier than a filter at the beginning...
@cablesphere If you're just using grains that don't need to be converted (steeping grains) use whatever method makes you happy. About the only thing that will cause ill effect is allowing the water to get too hot. Keep it under 180 and you'll be fine. Your more flavor/more sugar comment is not without merit but more appropriate for discussing mashing temps.
No need for tying the grain bag in a bow or hanging it on the spoon. Just tie the muslin bag string around the handle of your brew kettle. Digital thermometers are great and everything, but don't dip the probe in the wort below the wire connection. Water and wire connections don't mix. Boilovers are VERY messy! Do keep a water spray bottle on hand. Spray when the foam starts climbing aggressively. After that jive, it's smooth sailing. When adding sugar, stir continuously until dissolved.
@nige4958 Interesting how you describe things at the age of 36. and I'm amazed at your fine choice of words in your video. Having said so, I'm not so sure if you're smarter than a fifth grader, though. Anyway, besides making wine, I love making beer, except, here in South-East Asia temperatures are 86F+ all year round, so temperature control is always a challenge. Basically, I pitch my yeast at, yes you read it correct,...78F+ to 80F+, and fermentation takes place at around 90F.
@faroutadventures I am not avoiding the question. The recommended FERMENTATION TEMPERATURE for that yeast is 59-75F. Yeast generates HEAT. If you ferment it at 75F ambient temperature, the actual fermentation inside the fermenter is going to rise significantly. Anywhere from 5-10 degrees. So there you go. It's you that can't comprehend the science behind fermentation. I suggest you watch my videos where I demonstrate the technique necessary to produce beers of quality.
@BNAZZ55 I topped off my batch with tap water once, it got infected. I have old iron pipes that have plenty of corrosion to harbor microbes so that was a bad decision on my part. If they were copper, pex or pvc it would be a different story. From then on if I'm doing an extract brew I'll buy my water.
@BNAZZ55 I would suppose that most municipalities treat their water. And if you have a well, and it has been inspected, you shouldn't have any problems. If you have water that is suspect, then by all means boil it first.
Sorry, gotta add another comment, this rolling boil thing. Yes, both Papazian and Palmer say to bring it up to a rolling boil, and at the very beginning when it starts, when the proteins first come out, all that foam, you have to be careful not to have a boil-over. But after that, they both say there's no need to keep up a scary boil, gently rolling is fine, to me, it's like cooking soup. I also don't understand why your kit had all the hops added at once, and with no straining out of them??
Good job with the partial Craig. How long did you take between finishing the brew to drinking? I bet a beer like that would be even better with a couple of month maturing in the keg.
I perfer liquid yeast, though i have used dry, and i have never re-hygradted it (im drunk, spelling not good) and have never had a problem, just an info note, thanks for the vids.
Hey Craig, I noticed in the video you picked up a Coopers European lager kit. I was wondering whether you have brewed it yet and if so what the results were like? Did you bother brewing it at lager temperatures of 12-15oC or did you just keep it at room temperature? Many thanks
Craig .. would you have gotten more extract from the Grains had you not put them into a bag? It seems to me allowing the water to circulate around the grains would have been more beneficial.
Hey Craig I'm brewing this recipe tomorrow with a few minor changes..I was thinking about adding an additional 0.5 ounces of the Williamette hops at 10 or 5 mins and was just wondering what you thought about it...would it throw off any balance or be too strong? I'm still new to home brewing so im not too sure also i want to say thanks for all the videos they have help out quite a bit....Thanks
Thanks craig, this beer is my favourite style and now i think i might start playing about with grains and stuff. Would 4.5LBs of DME work instead of the 7LME? DME is way cheaper for me, cheers!
Hello Craig, Tried my first batch of beer over this past weekend. It is a pale ale with hops added during the boil. I did not get it cooled down fast enough, probably took about two hrs...had no other method than to wait it out..ran out of clean cold water. Do you think there is a good chance this is bad, or will have a load of off-flavors. The air-lock has been bubbling steadily for the last couple of days. Should I wait this out? Appreciate the videos..Thanks
@nige4958 I just used some Safale Ale S-04 Whitbread Strain (11.5 grams) in my Light Scottish Ale Partial Mash. Instructions say to ferment between 66*F and 76*F. So, my question to you nige, is do you claim to have more knowledge than the yeast manufacturers?
@faroutadventures I know the flavor of the water might be fine. I was just wondering if there is any bacteria (bugs) that could effect the beer if it was not boiled first.
@BNAZZ55 If you can drink tap water, it will be fine. Tap water in modern countries is drinkable, so therefore should be fine in beer making. Canada probably has some of the best water in the world.
Hi! I saw you used Safale yeast. the last part of the word means it's an ale-yeast. (Saflager is a lager yeast, Safale is an ale yeast.) BUT what does the prefix *Saf* comes from? Is it company, family, county/country where the yeast come from? I have tried googling it, searching, reading. But I cannot find the info on this. Any thoughts on this?
@faroutadventures If you're fermenting at 76F, your fermentation temperature is going to be over 80F. Why don't you try that and let us all know how it turns out.
@nige4958 I like to listen to or read your suggestions on brewing if they help me, as I do with Graig, or anyone else for that matter. I like the hobby of wine making and beer brewing, as you, Graig, and many others do. Just stay away from this site if you can't control yourself, if you feel the urge to lash out at others. Do something constructive. And to you Graig, keep it up!
@CraigTube So lb for lb LME it has less fermentables? And if I was doing a kit I shouldn't replace sugar for LME using the same quantity or i'll end up with a lower ABV? Cheers
@rhddrifter86 He has made more simple home brew's. Go watch those if you need help. This one is simple also. You can't just expect it to be all done for you.
Hay Crag Nice to see a new vid up. now if i could just push myself a bit to put up somthing new i got a new toy but i'm nervous about putting it up as its genrily considerd a fanboy toy :p alltho i bought it for diffrent resons than the "fanboys"
Pitching yeast without temperature control at 75F is a disaster waiting to happen. Getting 5 gallons of warm wort to cool without refrigeration is next to impossible. Your fermentation temps are going to be in the mid 70's, pushing near 80F. You're going to get banana esters fermenting Nottingham that high. Temperature control is vital is you want to produce quality beers.
@PeiHomeBrewer Midwest Supplies has this same kit, with .5oz Perle hops at 60min and 1oz Tradition hops at the end of the boil. Morebeer doesn't show their instructions for this kit on-line. I trust Craig that the instructions said to dump them in all at 60min. Just a sort of strange kit maybe? You gotta agree that tiny nylon bag was way too small for the grain bill, and putting them in with cold water? Or are you still snubbing me for trying to stop these stupid brew wars? Geez man.
@CraigTube Um, Nige is probably off looking through his closet for his polyclar in preparation for his 4th of July party. Nige-ee-poo, dearest, where are you? I hid his eyebrow comb last week, has totally thrown him off his game it seems. ;-)
@uglybob6666 Midwest Supplies. They offer all kinds of recipes. Some of their beers have won awards. Check them out. They offer 4 kinds of brewiing technique recipes. Good prices also.
@cablesphere - Poor advice you got there, at least a little too over-simplified. Some, not all, grains require certain temps and mash durations for proper saccrification. You're simply not going to get "more sugars" from grains mashed at too low a temp.
@nige4958 Temp control is #1 of course Nige, but where Craig lies, he can get away with fermenting at lower temps that do you and I in the "states"..especially you being in "Caddy-fawnia"...soory about the schwarzenegger accent .(the govenor of california)
um its weird, and you should pay attention to this because im subscribed to you love your vids, but on my page its no longer telling me you have new videos. I have to go through your profile.
@CraigTube 71F equates to 75F+ as fermentation generates HEAT. Perhaps one day yourself and your subscribers will take heed from someone that knows what the hell their talking about. I've been brewing all grain beer longer than some of your subscribers have been alive, and YOU DON'T PITCH YEAST AT 75F unless you have some sort of effective method to control temps. Your ambient temps were 71F, your fermentation was considerably higher than that.
@nige4958 However you look at it, whether beer tastes good or not, has off tastes or not, in the end it all depends on your personal taste and preference. If you like it, and 7 billion others in the world hate it, so what??? Point is, I guess that reading this may annoy you, and what's that worth to me or anyone? Nothing.
@nige4958 Answer my question. Why are you avoiding the question. Don't question my beer making technique. Are you or are you not more knowledgeable than a yeast mfg. company?
@CraigTube Liquid has water in it therefore 1lb DME does not =1lb LME. No offense but how are you making videos without knowing this very basic knowledge? this is from Morebeer.com: * 1 pound of Dried Malt Extract dissolved in one gallon of water = 1.045 SG * 1 pound of liquid Malt Extract dissolved in one gallon of water = 1.035 SG (Assuming 70% efficiency)
Great job! You will be so impressed with the improved taste from this method you will never look back and maybe even all grain eventually!
You did an amazing job on explaining the procedures and giving some really good advice along the way. I made beer like this many times before going to all grain. It is very rewarding! Yes, the smells of wort, hops, & grains are incredible . Good job man!
Re-watching these videos :)
Just wanted to thank you for the inspiration of getting me into brewing, been doing it for over 2 years now with my dad, I'm never gonna stop!
They can't hold you down. GOD Bless you brother!
Love the HD video Craig! I was really excited for you on this because I had so much fun doing it myself. Cheers!
Oh, and if you are ever worried about temp control/swings and have an extra rubbermaid tote lying around, just put your fermentor in it and fill the tote to the beer level with water. It will help stabilize your temperature for those of you without basements or fridges to keep the temp stable. It will also help keep your beer at room temp since it acts like a heat sink. Cheers!
Nice vid Craig. Can't wait for the results. Keep up the good work. Hope that back gets better.
@CraigTube Oh, yes, you are right, it was the hops. Guess they didn't tell you to strain them out while transferring to the fermenter. Kudos to JoeMalone for sending it to you, but it doesn't seem to have come with fantastic instructions, etc. Again, you are so much braver than I was when I did my first partial, LOL!! You rock Craig!!!!
thanks for the vid... an encouragement to this novice tin-can brewer starting to look at the next step! have had some success with higher octane beers, now looking for that flavor balance. keep it coming!
Great vid Craig. One of my favorite brewing vids so far.
@steeljan The bulk of the grains were crystal, they don't require conversion. Honey malt ideally needs to be mashed but think the attitude is that of oats or flaked barley, it's acceptable to steep. Pale, 2-row and Munich are a few you won't find a gray area, you'll need a sach rest (155F) for conversion.
Back in the day that's how we did it, fermented with sludge and all. Just rack to a carboy after peak fermentation and that will left a manageable amount of trub before kegging/bottling.
@PeiHomeBrewer It is a malty beer. there is no need for the late addition hops, but you can add them to give a little more hop aroma. But like Craig said, this particular kit did not call for it. but you can always adapt a kit to what you want it to be. If he likes this one and feels like it needs some hop aroma then he can add a 1/2 oz at the end.
Craig, Another interesting and informative vid... Looks like more involvement than my level of interest in the "craftsmanship of beer making". Maybe too, being a Renaisance/Multi-Trades man, hinders my interest in concentrated indepth practice of a craft like"brewing beer". Maybe I'm just a half step away from "store bought beer consumer"... A half-step is enough of a difference to satisfy my taste.This past year I have bottled 108 Gallons of "customized kit beer". I may try dry hopping next...
The sludge is just a mixture of proteins and hop particles. Some people strain it out when tranfering the wort to fermenter. Some people don't. Generally it won't hurt anything and settles out.
@steeljan I just did a partial grain. The instructions told me to steep the grains overnight in cold water. I guess it extracts more goodness from the grains. I also did a "sparge" into my fermenting bucket, whic also gave more goodness. Just placed a strainer on top of the bucket and poured warm water over the grains. I don't think there is one set way to do grains. The sediment is from the fresh hops.
hey cool vid craig...I'll be doing a "real" partial myself soon ,after doing a "semi" partial w while back.. Partials are interesting to the tin canners looking to voyage to the next step ..cheers!
@CraigTube - Its a malt-forward ale so you're right Craig, its all bittering hops ( in an attempt at balance of the malt ) with no flavor or aroma hops, because they want the malt flavor on the top!
@steeljan Hops at the end is for aroma. Again, no set way to do grain brewing. It's to each his own. You can tweak the recipe any way you want. It's all about the final product and how you want it to turn out. If you have 100 brewers brewiing a batch, I'd guess you'd have at least 55 different ways to brew.
Fan-f-ing-tastic! You are one brave man to video your first adventure into grains. So much here I don't understand, like why that kit had you put the grains into such a small nylon bag, it should have been much bigger or muslin, to allow more water to get to the grains. Why on earth did they have you put the grains straight into cold water instead of bring it up to 155F or so first for the 30 minute steep?? And I have no idea what that sludge was in your pot, never seen that before, lol.
Also see you've picked up on DanoSongs gotcom music, I've been using him since making new videos here on youtube. Great Free Royalty-free music with DanoSongs dotcom. Great guy.
@78recordrepair - I second that. Trying to strain your wort usually is alot more hassle than its worth. I KNOW that secondary fermenters aren't necessary, but I use them ( the way the Pro's use "bright tanks" ) and it is far easier than a filter at the beginning...
@cablesphere If you're just using grains that don't need to be converted (steeping grains) use whatever method makes you happy. About the only thing that will cause ill effect is allowing the water to get too hot. Keep it under 180 and you'll be fine. Your more flavor/more sugar comment is not without merit but more appropriate for discussing mashing temps.
No need for tying the grain bag in a bow or hanging it on the spoon. Just tie the muslin bag string around the handle of your brew kettle. Digital thermometers are great and everything, but don't dip the probe in the wort below the wire connection. Water and wire connections don't mix. Boilovers are VERY messy! Do keep a water spray bottle on hand. Spray when the foam starts climbing aggressively. After that jive, it's smooth sailing. When adding sugar, stir continuously until dissolved.
@greenvalet i just bought one for 35$ its an Alaskan amber clone smelling great hope it turns out for me :) cheers and happy brewing
@nige4958 Interesting how you describe things at the age of 36. and I'm amazed at your fine choice of words in your video. Having said so, I'm not so sure if you're smarter than a fifth grader, though. Anyway, besides making wine, I love making beer, except, here in South-East Asia temperatures are 86F+ all year round, so temperature control is always a challenge. Basically, I pitch my yeast at, yes you read it correct,...78F+ to 80F+, and fermentation takes place at around 90F.
oh! just a note the link to the tasting links back to this video. just a heads up
I might try this method this summer, nice video craig :)
@faroutadventures I am not avoiding the question. The recommended FERMENTATION TEMPERATURE for that yeast is 59-75F. Yeast generates HEAT. If you ferment it at 75F ambient temperature, the actual fermentation inside the fermenter is going to rise significantly. Anywhere from 5-10 degrees. So there you go. It's you that can't comprehend the science behind fermentation. I suggest you watch my videos where I demonstrate the technique necessary to produce beers of quality.
@BNAZZ55 I topped off my batch with tap water once, it got infected. I have old iron pipes that have plenty of corrosion to harbor microbes so that was a bad decision on my part. If they were copper, pex or pvc it would be a different story. From then on if I'm doing an extract brew I'll buy my water.
it is good to know i am not the only one drinkin from the test tube.
Awesome Job on this video
@BNAZZ55 I would suppose that most municipalities treat their water. And if you have a well, and it has been inspected, you shouldn't have any problems. If you have water that is suspect, then by all means boil it first.
very nice craig. hope it turns out!
@HowieMakesWine ..Great!! I will soon be unleashing a track that will encompass my thoughts and feelings towards you and many of Craig's supporters.
I bet you really love it when its done . I make my own type of tea so I know how it goes . =)
Sorry, gotta add another comment, this rolling boil thing. Yes, both Papazian and Palmer say to bring it up to a rolling boil, and at the very beginning when it starts, when the proteins first come out, all that foam, you have to be careful not to have a boil-over. But after that, they both say there's no need to keep up a scary boil, gently rolling is fine, to me, it's like cooking soup. I also don't understand why your kit had all the hops added at once, and with no straining out of them??
Good job with the partial Craig. How long did you take between finishing the brew to drinking? I bet a beer like that would be even better with a couple of month maturing in the keg.
@threeque Yeah, who the heck would give this video a thumbs-down?!!
I perfer liquid yeast, though i have used dry, and i have never re-hygradted it (im drunk, spelling not good) and have never had a problem, just an info note, thanks for the vids.
Great vid craig.Did you come up with a solution to what water you use with starsan? Also how long till you can taste this beer? Can't wait for that.
Hey Craig, I noticed in the video you picked up a Coopers European lager kit. I was wondering whether you have brewed it yet and if so what the results were like? Did you bother brewing it at lager temperatures of 12-15oC or did you just keep it at room temperature? Many thanks
how come you never worry about the chlorine in your water? is there none or is it just not problem? thanks for all your hardwork. cheers
Craig .. would you have gotten more extract from the Grains had you not put them into a bag? It seems to me allowing the water to circulate around the grains would have been more beneficial.
Hey Craig I'm brewing this recipe tomorrow with a few minor changes..I was thinking about adding an additional 0.5 ounces of the Williamette hops at 10 or 5 mins and was just wondering what you thought about it...would it throw off any balance or be too strong? I'm still new to home brewing so im not too sure also i want to say thanks for all the videos they have help out quite a bit....Thanks
Craig, Do you use Star San on your grain bags after they have been used, cleaned, and or washed in the washing mashine?
Thanks craig, this beer is my favourite style and now i think i might start playing about with grains and stuff. Would 4.5LBs of DME work instead of the 7LME? DME is way cheaper for me, cheers!
Hello Craig, Tried my first batch of beer over this past weekend. It is a pale ale with hops added during the boil. I did not get it cooled down fast enough, probably took about two hrs...had no other method than to wait it out..ran out of clean cold water. Do you think there is a good chance this is bad, or will have a load of off-flavors. The air-lock has been bubbling steadily for the last couple of days. Should I wait this out? Appreciate the videos..Thanks
@nige4958 I just used some Safale Ale S-04 Whitbread Strain (11.5 grams) in my Light Scottish Ale Partial Mash. Instructions say to ferment between 66*F and 76*F. So, my question to you nige, is do you claim to have more knowledge than the yeast manufacturers?
@faroutadventures I know the flavor of the water might be fine. I was just wondering if there is any bacteria (bugs) that could effect the beer if it was not boiled first.
@BNAZZ55 If you can drink tap water, it will be fine. Tap water in modern countries is drinkable, so therefore should be fine in beer making. Canada probably has some of the best water in the world.
whats more complicated, the bit that craig tips the ready weighed grain into the net sack ?
should you have boiled your top off water first or used bottled water? wondering if there is any thing in that water that might contaminate the beer.
Hi!
I saw you used Safale yeast. the last part of the word means it's an ale-yeast. (Saflager is a lager yeast, Safale is an ale yeast.) BUT what does the prefix *Saf* comes from? Is it company, family, county/country where the yeast come from? I have tried googling it, searching, reading. But I cannot find the info on this. Any thoughts on this?
@faroutadventures If you're fermenting at 76F, your fermentation temperature is going to be over 80F. Why don't you try that and let us all know how it turns out.
Craig why do you say nottingham but the text on your video says us-05?
@CraigTube Ahhhh i wondered if you had some info that the yeast was the same strain or somthing :)
@nige4958 I like to listen to or read your suggestions on brewing if they help me, as I do with Graig, or anyone else for that matter. I like the hobby of wine making and beer brewing, as you, Graig, and many others do. Just stay away from this site if you can't control yourself, if you feel the urge to lash out at others. Do something constructive. And to you Graig, keep it up!
Is 7lb of DME not a little high for a 5 gallon batch? A regular kit is only about 2lbs extract and 2lb of dextrose, is tis just a strong beer?
@CraigTube
So lb for lb LME it has less fermentables? And if I was doing a kit I shouldn't replace sugar for LME using the same quantity or i'll end up with a lower ABV?
Cheers
legend
Could I use a collendar over the pot and sparge the grain bag? why dont I want to squeeze the grain bag?
@rhddrifter86 He has made more simple home brew's. Go watch those if you need help. This one is simple also. You can't just expect it to be all done for you.
Hay Crag Nice to see a new vid up.
now if i could just push myself a bit to put up somthing new i got a new toy but i'm nervous about putting it up as its genrily considerd a fanboy toy :p alltho i bought it for diffrent resons than the "fanboys"
Pitching yeast without temperature control at 75F is a disaster waiting to happen. Getting 5 gallons of warm wort to cool without refrigeration is next to impossible. Your fermentation temps are going to be in the mid 70's, pushing near 80F. You're going to get banana esters fermenting Nottingham that high. Temperature control is vital is you want to produce quality beers.
@PeiHomeBrewer Midwest Supplies has this same kit, with .5oz Perle hops at 60min and 1oz Tradition hops at the end of the boil. Morebeer doesn't show their instructions for this kit on-line. I trust Craig that the instructions said to dump them in all at 60min. Just a sort of strange kit maybe? You gotta agree that tiny nylon bag was way too small for the grain bill, and putting them in with cold water? Or are you still snubbing me for trying to stop these stupid brew wars? Geez man.
@rhddrifter86 Well ok, I understand your point.
@CraigTube Um, Nige is probably off looking through his closet for his polyclar in preparation for his 4th of July party. Nige-ee-poo, dearest, where are you? I hid his eyebrow comb last week, has totally thrown him off his game it seems. ;-)
@uglybob6666 Midwest Supplies. They offer all kinds of recipes. Some of their beers have won awards. Check them out. They offer 4 kinds of brewiing technique recipes. Good prices also.
The sludge will fall to the bottom by bottling time.
@CraigTube ..I wasn't being condescending, just stating facts.
I just made my first batch and so far two bottle bombs, nothing to bad, no glass in the wall...should I dump it? I'm rather scared of it.
u use 2/3 cup of sugar ?? or 5 oz ???
There we go again with the one thumbs down. WTF??? 76 ups, 1 down. Feeling lonely TSA?
@cablesphere - Poor advice you got there, at least a little too over-simplified. Some, not all, grains require certain temps and mash durations for proper saccrification. You're simply not going to get "more sugars" from grains mashed at too low a temp.
oh ya.
gota do it
First post. :p
use maybe less beer drinking on brue day ---then you wont forget to use a hop bag to boil hops????
@nige4958 Temp control is #1 of course Nige, but where Craig lies, he can get away with fermenting at lower temps that do you and I in the "states"..especially you being in "Caddy-fawnia"...soory about the schwarzenegger accent .(the govenor of california)
um its weird, and you should pay attention to this because im subscribed to you love your vids, but on my page its no longer telling me you have new videos. I have to go through your profile.
@CraigTube 71F equates to 75F+ as fermentation generates HEAT. Perhaps one day yourself and your subscribers will take heed from someone that knows what the hell their talking about. I've been brewing all grain beer longer than some of your subscribers have been alive, and YOU DON'T PITCH YEAST AT 75F unless you have some sort of effective method to control temps. Your ambient temps were 71F, your fermentation was considerably higher than that.
@nige4958 However you look at it, whether beer tastes good or not, has off tastes or not, in the end it all depends on your personal taste and preference. If you like it, and 7 billion others in the world hate it, so what??? Point is, I guess that reading this may annoy you, and what's that worth to me or anyone? Nothing.
@nige4958 Answer my question. Why are you avoiding the question. Don't question my beer making technique. Are you or are you not more knowledgeable than a yeast mfg. company?
@CraigTube
Liquid has water in it therefore 1lb DME does not =1lb LME. No offense but how are you making videos without knowing this very basic knowledge?
this is from Morebeer.com:
* 1 pound of Dried Malt Extract dissolved in one gallon of water = 1.045 SG
* 1 pound of liquid Malt Extract dissolved in one gallon of water = 1.035 SG
(Assuming 70% efficiency)
Awesome Job on this video