This is one of the most craziest guy stuff that we "crazy" car guys love. I mean just really look at what all has been done and the never give up attitude of Adam. keep up the great vedosssss
The entire time I was waiting for the BMW to either get stuck in the air or for the entire thing to come crashing down lol! I'm glad you guys are going to bring in an expert to check everything out. Personally if it were me I still don't think I could get under it knowing how thick that concrete is and where half of the bolts were placed.
Why was there not at least one person there that knew what they were doing. I've spent hundred of hours under a car lift in my life and that is something you don't just want to half ass install. This video was like the blind leading the blind.
Matt, I have an idea for you to create more content. Wall mount pressure washing install for Adam and document the process so people interested in the system can learn how to do it. Also, a father-son session with Adam on how to detail his cars
Adam should go to a hardware store and buy a tube of torque seal or torque strip. It's comes in various colors and you mark it from the base of the lift along the nut to the top of the thread from the bolt. It dries and if the nuts get loose, it will break the seal which will let you know they're loosening up.
KeVo If it goes straight across yes but you could make one that angles up like an arch so it almost touches the ceiling and you'd only lose maybe four inches.
you don't need the top piece, you have an option for the two posts and a top piece, or two posts with the base plate. Although the base plate doesn't offer any strength it takes the place of the top one.
Spencer Thompson you don't need it no but since they are worried about how well the posts are secured into the thin concrete pad, if you added a top brace there would no longer be any tension on those anchor bolts.
U should never weld or modify lifting equipment from its original design, this all comes under lower Regis here in the U.K. The Lifting Operations Lifting Equipment Regulations 1998 (LOLER) are set of regulations created under the Health and Safety at Work etc. Act 1974 which came into force in Great Britain on 5 December 1998 and replaced a number of other pieces of legislation which covered the use of lifting equipment.
I'm happy with my 4 post lift install. I really like the idea of a 2 post, but for my garage size and its use 90% of the time for storage I decided to go 4 post. The stability seems less concerning too. But I'll be following to see how you guys tidy it up.
That's the plan. I'm hoping to find a more manual solution than the sliding hydraulic scissor jack Bendpak sells. It's nice, but expensive and requires a pretty beefy air compressor. I'd like a sliding frame jack that can be manually pumped. Any ideas? I have the sliding jack tray for the meantime, but it doesn't have much clearance under low vehicles to use a bottle jack.
adjusting the cable to "time" the lift for proper operation is what is needed. they will not stay that way over time cables stretch and will need re-adjusted .also never saw a level being used so slight difference in floor level will affect when locks latch . i would like to see arms pulled in and 4ft level across each pair . then you could decide if floor or weldments of lock points are the concern . most lifts installers will shim under lift to set base plates level first. then begin adjustments of lift to "time" from there.
Those black things on the arms can be used for putting the car on. Seeing as the bmws and BMW minis have the little "Blocks" for jacking. Put them on there
does this lift have an option of adjustable lift arms that slide in and out...that help with a lot of lift point issues...didnt look like that it had them
Hey Matt I am not a specialist or anything but since he will not go higher than the ceiling I would recommend a rod to attach at the top of the post ( box in the square is stronger ) since we don't have a definite answer on the cement anchor ...........just my 2 cents All the best to You & Adams
It would just cancel some stress on the ciment to avoid getting up to the car with bent in post because of the anchoring ;O) does not need to be manufactured
I installed a similar lift in my garage, and it's funny how you guys went through the same horrors we did. lol. The concrete bolts do have to be re-tourqued periodically, and at first u will be scared shit less to stand underneath it. But u will get used to after a while. Getting used to the jack points on specific cars will take some time too.
I knew it would go this way with any lift. All these people that comment are used to watching video of people showing all the glory and none of the process.
@@ObsessedGarage I installed the same lift with the electronic safety releases, not sure why someone would say they are not reliable. Mine is the 242-E.
I saw a video by another UA-camr that used a similar lift. They used a torque wrench to set the tightness of the bolts. Did you guys do the same thing? Seems to me that that is very important and not rely on hand tightening.
If 2 of the legs are shorter than the other 2 Logic says those go towards the engine as that is the heavier end of a car? Do not understand why you did not just reverse out and turn the car around? I might be dumb but have you allowed for the fact that it looks like you have lowered suspension? And when was the last time you took a car with lowered suspension to a garage?
Was a concrete core taken and tested for strength?No sure if it's necessary,I had a client that installed one recently(different model) that is the route he took just to double check but that might have been over kill..
Does that lift have the low profile arms? if it does Adam might look into the mohawk lift speed lane attachment. it might make lifting his lowered cars much easier. its a drive on system for a 2 post lift.
My cousin put in a two post in his 5 car garage and he said he went 10 inches minimum into the concrete. they poured 12 inches of concrete on purpose to compensate for the lift. 4inches is kinda sketchy but his cars don't weigh nothing anyways so you should be fine lol his lift has a 5 ton max limit so 10 inches sounds sufficient. Twin Busch doesn't have a manufacturer's suggestions for installing the lift? how deep or how much torque?
This is an accident waiting to happen, between wrong jacking points being used and the actual install. Wouldnt be so bad if some of you had an actual idea on how a hoist works. But its the blind leading the blind here!
anchor bolts need to be driven down about 5" then tighten. If you watch the install it was tapped down only about two and a half inches. The nuts were run down almost to where the thread would end, so it would feel like the nuts are tight because you ran out of threads. Four inches of concrete but your anchor bolts are only grabbing half of the thickness. They need to grab on all 4" of concrete.
The guy that inspects our hoist at the shop wouldn't approve the anchor point of the hoist near the cut in the concrete. You should check into it just to be safe!
Hey adam i have an e92 as well and i had that problem with the lang arm too You can just put a pice of wood on the long arm and jake it up at the bmw jaking points with that
surprised you didn't just back the car in instead of flipping the arms around, probably would be easier to direct the car in position in between the posts too
doing any work on the passanger front is gunna suck even taking the wheel off... looks like you'll be pinned against the wall, which also isn't the safest thing to do.. the hoist should have been put in the middle bay.
jason demmink more space than I have in my garage and I manage to do plenty of stuff no worries. Only issue I've had is I can't slide the driveshafts out of a solid axle.
Hey adam what was he saying about the bolts stretching... theres no way they should stretch move or even shimmy... what type of concrete anchors did you use? Epoxy'd in? I enjoy your videos and dont wanna see anything bad happen or have chance to!
I would have had an expert do the install. Worth it for the piece of mind alone, especially when the lift was so cheap. Not something you want to just wing it with. Also seems like the middle spot would have been a more ideal location...
Now the question is, will you be getting a two post lift or scissor lift when you build your garage. Lets just say Adam was a test mule, and now that you guys have a better understanding of how a two post should be installed. Which are you leaning towards? That's if you still even want a lift lol.
I'll definitely want a scissor lift. I don't get the appeal of a two post other than the cost savings. That is unless you own a business are concerned about efficiency.
you really cant do drive train work on a scissor lift, if you wanted to do a clutch swap or anything to do with the trans you'd be screwed with a scissor lift
Obsessed Garage the appeal is you can get under the car and remove a transmission or exhaust and there is nothing in the way. or you can use it to take the body off a body-on-frame car.
Obsessed Garage Rotary lifts are manufactured in Madison Indiana if i am not mistaken. At the shop I work at we have 4 12,000 pound lifts the youngest one being just shy of 16 years old and the most expensive repair we have ever had to do to them is replace the cables because they stretch. They get ran up and down every day at least a half doze times each. I am not trying to sound like a fan boy i love learning new stuff that is why I am a mechanic, if you can inform me on other reasons why say bend pack or twin bush lifts are better besides price let me know.
I'm not saying Twin Busch is better, I'm just saying it's not junk. I like them all. They all seem very similar to me with the exception of Mohawk that seems to be far superior.
Twin Busch is ok - for a weekend wrencher they are ok - they make quite big marketing but its not that common to see a twin busch lift here in germany/austria in a professional shop. If I would live in the US I would never consider buying a twin busch lift - you have good so much better lifts for the same price if not cheaper to be honest.
Generally a car is heavier in the front. By having the arms shorter in the front it place the weight even on the post. As the car goes up its not trying to tip the post forward and pulling on the bolts. If its even then the the post are just pushing down on the pad and not trying to lift out of it on one side. With that said, by placing the car a bit towards the rear it also makes it easier to open the door wider making it easier to get in and out.
Matt, please tell Adam to get himself a super low trolley jack and use that to jack his cars up from the diff. This should raise them enough so you're able to swing both the front and rear hoist legs under the car with ease. It will save him soooooo much time in getting his low cars on and off the hoist. The ramps are useless for this application.
Hey man I know you probably won't see this but when shaking the car you do it by the tire because if you shake the car it could accidentally fall off the lift
lol i feel bad seeing the struggles to lift the car you guys should have had Adam's friend Taylor show adam how to lift a car with a 2 post lift b4 the video you can you either of the rubber pads on the lift swing arm and they just have to on reinforced metal under the car
@22:28 ive seen this from thinner then shop grade slabs. its an easy fix, need a steel brace added to the top in order to brace the posts, preventing them from leaning inward from the weight. example pic. rs202.pbsrc.com/albums/aa24/preprodigy/20161226_050320_zpsq6n9ygt6.png?w=480&h=480&fit=clip
in concrete only 8" thick the bolts drf stretched id say a good 1/8 to 1/4"? this is typical, hand tightening the concrete anchors is one thing, but having about 1500+ lbs on each side of the lift that leverage without a top brace will def cause those anchors to fully stretch and bit into the concrete. as long as none of the anchors spin while u try to tighten or loosen a nut you are fine. but again like stated in my first post, adding an aditional top brace. just like a strut tower brace on a car, it will take on that force making the pillars wanna move inward twords the weoght of the car. get a local metal fabricator to make a top support n youre golden! i work with auto lifts and just about everything else. just wouldnt be leaving the car up in air for long periods of time without supervision of the bolts until a top brace is secured in place
what about a scissor lift then you could build some kind of permanent small ramps in front and behind the lift then there would be no need for the arms and the lowered cars would fit better cause he doesnt have the height in that garage to walk under the car without leaning he could still change oil and tires on it
In my honest opinion, I don't feel any upgrades to the concrete slab is necessary. It is almost standard that all concrete slabs are 4" think, and can be assumed as such. I'm not so sure a company will be selling residential lifts (I am assuming) if they could not be installed on a 4" slab. The one thing that worries me is that there are bolts right on the control joints. I wouldn't put the swistracks back on over this area & I would just monitor to see if the concrete does start to develop cracking. If you do decide to upgrade the slab, Pad footings will be all that is necessary. Without doing any loading calculations (this will probably be overkill anyway) I would do a 4' x 4' x 6" (or even 8" if you want to be super safe) deep pad footing complete with 5 15M rebar each way. Also, make sure that you dowel into the existing concrete slab before pouring so the new pad footing will be connected into the existing slab.
Personally I would've hit those bolts with a 1/2 inch pneumatic impact. From what we saw the guy used a crescent wrench... not tryin to be negative here, just an observation.
The Twin Busch scissor lift, Where can I find it for $1,250.00 ? On there site it list for $1,699.00 I really like it a lot and the fact it is movable is perfect.... Thanks for the video's....
on my lift if you lift the car and dont lower it like you guys were doing all you have to do is pull the cable and then you can lower the car. I'm not sure why you guys were having to pull the cables then go up with the lift again
But 100% a lift is something you have to get comfortable with. Once he finds all the lift points on the cars and puts them up a few times he will be comfortable with it. I was nervous and scared about mine the first few times too always took a lot of time to get my car up but now I can pull in throw the arms under and fully trust it
Maybe you guys should have used an epoxy anchor instead of a wedge anchor. From my experience, epoxy is a whole lot stronger and once cured, impossible to remove.
Should of got a scissor lift. Waste of a 2 poster to be honest, only goes up half way before the roof of the car hits the ceiling, and still, you can't stand under it.
I don’t think you have followed the directions completely. When raising the lift, both safety locks should click simultaneously. Twin-Bush has a comprehensive installation video of this lift.
I'd be worried about the lift. The reason I'm saying this is because I pour concrete and when a customer wants a lift you dig about 10-12 inches deeper where the posts for the lift are going to be installed. So I'd be worried but there could be a bright side and which they put "fiber" in the concrete which makes it stronger but I still wouldn't trust a car on that lift
Curious to why this company over Bendpak, maybe I missed a video where this was talked about idk? Also I know Bendpak has super low profile lift arms that would not require the use of ramps just to get a car to the proper height to use this lift. Using ramps before you can even make use of your lift seems counterproductive to the fullest. Not hating just curious. Update us on the concrete situation also when you speak to a specialist...
Edit: pause at 23:12 look at the top of the far right post, then jump to 24:11 way to much movement and the camera is stationary. Please, please, please check into this guys!
kh155 Twin Busch lifts are super tough high quality products. I think the one they are installing is their smallest twin post lift. The application is just super sketchy and the for lowered cars scissor lifts are always the way to go.
kh155 also all of Adams cars are slammed they are lowered probably 4 or 5 inches past stock height so even if you were to use a floor jack you still would need a ramp to lift to even get under it I think if it was a stick height car the arms would be fine
Refreshing so see someone not editing out all the mistakes that are part of the journey.
just some knowledge, when you hear the locks do their thing in both sides, you lower the lift till it is sitting on the locks.
"It's a blue lift made for blue collar people". OK, that cracked me up! Good job guys! You kept at it for the win.
Great job guys! Every project has its difficulties, just that much rewarding when it's done!
Please get someone who knows how to put a car on a lift to check it out. Seems dodgy. And we don't want a squashed Adam :(
That's the plan.
This is one of the most craziest guy stuff that we "crazy" car guys love. I mean just really look at what all has been done and the never give up attitude of Adam. keep up the great vedosssss
The entire time I was waiting for the BMW to either get stuck in the air or for the entire thing to come crashing down lol! I'm glad you guys are going to bring in an expert to check everything out. Personally if it were me I still don't think I could get under it knowing how thick that concrete is and where half of the bolts were placed.
Adam needs to get Taylor over there for a 101 in how to use a lift just to be safe
Why was there not at least one person there that knew what they were doing. I've spent hundred of hours under a car lift in my life and that is something you don't just want to half ass install. This video was like the blind leading the blind.
Great video I'm now thinking of a lift myself because of this video.
awesome matt looks good cant wait for more
great job congratulations
Hey Matt Adam. The little black spacers he put under the lift that have compressed that's why the bolts were loose imo.
Matt, I have an idea for you to create more content. Wall mount pressure washing install for Adam and document the process so people interested in the system can learn how to do it. Also, a father-son session with Adam on how to detail his cars
Turned out awesome
I agree with you on the scissor lift
Pretty awesome , I want one in my garage one day
Adam should go to a hardware store and buy a tube of torque seal or torque strip. It's comes in various colors and you mark it from the base of the lift along the nut to the top of the thread from the bolt. It dries and if the nuts get loose, it will break the seal which will let you know they're loosening up.
your nuts, theirs no way those bolts are stretching
Haha can't believe i stayed up for this lol
Definitely have someone weld up a top brace that goes between the two posts. it'll take all the tension off those anchor bolts.
Iain Won't that limit the height you can lift to?
KeVo If it goes straight across yes but you could make one that angles up like an arch so it almost touches the ceiling and you'd only lose maybe four inches.
you don't need the top piece, you have an option for the two posts and a top piece, or two posts with the base plate. Although the base plate doesn't offer any strength it takes the place of the top one.
Spencer Thompson you don't need it no but since they are worried about how well the posts are secured into the thin concrete pad, if you added a top brace there would no longer be any tension on those anchor bolts.
U should never weld or modify lifting equipment from its original design, this all comes under lower Regis here in the U.K.
The Lifting Operations Lifting Equipment Regulations 1998 (LOLER) are set of regulations created under the Health and Safety at Work etc. Act 1974 which came into force in Great Britain on 5 December 1998 and replaced a number of other pieces of legislation which covered the use of lifting equipment.
I'm happy with my 4 post lift install. I really like the idea of a 2 post, but for my garage size and its use 90% of the time for storage I decided to go 4 post. The stability seems less concerning too. But I'll be following to see how you guys tidy it up.
I agree, the four post is much easier to install and less work getting the car up in the air. Are you going to get frame jacks?
That's the plan. I'm hoping to find a more manual solution than the sliding hydraulic scissor jack Bendpak sells. It's nice, but expensive and requires a pretty beefy air compressor. I'd like a sliding frame jack that can be manually pumped. Any ideas? I have the sliding jack tray for the meantime, but it doesn't have much clearance under low vehicles to use a bottle jack.
I love how many cameras were used.
The car was improperly set up on the 2 post, the locks are supposed to pop at the same time to show equal weight distribution
adjusting the cable to "time" the lift for proper operation is what is needed. they will not stay that way over time cables stretch and will need re-adjusted .also never saw a level being used so slight difference in floor level will affect when locks latch . i would like to see arms pulled in and 4ft level across each pair . then you could decide if floor or weldments of lock points are the concern . most lifts installers will shim under lift to set base plates level first. then begin adjustments of lift to "time" from there.
Hey man im having problems wiring my motor contactor just buzzes can you help
This was suprisingly entertaining. Just curious to see how often Adam will use this though
Nicole and her dialed in intuition... shes great.
what are the dimension of this garage ? and what is the hight ?
did you measure how high the car can be lifted before hit the ceiling ?
22'6" x 30'6" 10'3" Ceiling
Those black things on the arms can be used for putting the car on. Seeing as the bmws and BMW minis have the little "Blocks" for jacking. Put them on there
Normally i just put my jack or stand where there is 3 sheets of metal? :D
I jack cars up on a 2 post lift from the sill jack points all the time. Nothing wrong with it.
iiMDriifty yep same here
Use the ratcheting tie straps at each lift post to ensure that it can't fall backwards or forwards. Most shops require this for safety measures.
does this lift have an option of adjustable lift arms that slide in and out...that help with a lot of lift point issues...didnt look like that it had them
It does.
Hey Matt
I am not a specialist or anything but since he will not go higher than the ceiling I would recommend a rod to attach at the top of the post ( box in the square is stronger ) since we don't have a definite answer on the cement anchor ...........just my 2 cents
All the best to You & Adams
The posts are too short. They have a version that comes with a top brace, but it's much taller.
It would just cancel some stress on the ciment to avoid getting up to the car with bent in post because of the anchoring ;O) does not need to be manufactured
Matt, it is always a good idea to learn the install on someone elses garage first before embarking the same process in your own garage!
Ha, ha... I like that.
When working in a garage the longer arms were always to the rear and the short arms always to the front. but not familiar with twin busch :(
Great job
I installed a similar lift in my garage, and it's funny how you guys went through the same horrors we did. lol. The concrete bolts do have to be re-tourqued periodically, and at first u will be scared shit less to stand underneath it. But u will get used to after a while. Getting used to the jack points on specific cars will take some time too.
your welcome!
I knew it would go this way with any lift. All these people that comment are used to watching video of people showing all the glory and none of the process.
@@ObsessedGarage I installed the same lift with the electronic safety releases, not sure why someone would say they are not reliable. Mine is the 242-E.
At 16:40 far post near the window popped and tilted inward. I think the anchor bolts are too long.
this is actually hilarious to watch you put a car on the lift xD
did it held correctly from the points at the bottom ? still looks like it pushing on the skirt or smt
It is.
I saw a video by another UA-camr that used a similar lift. They used a torque wrench to set the tightness of the bolts. Did you guys do the same thing? Seems to me that that is very important and not rely on hand tightening.
i have put these in and manufacture says 4 inch pad is ok.
If 2 of the legs are shorter than the other 2 Logic says those go towards the engine as that is the heavier end of a car? Do not understand why you did not just reverse out and turn the car around? I might be dumb but have you allowed for the fact that it looks like you have lowered suspension? And when was the last time you took a car with lowered suspension to a garage?
Was a concrete core taken and tested for strength?No sure if it's necessary,I had a client that installed one recently(different model) that is the route he took just to double check but that might have been over kill..
They said the concrete was 4" thick. I was always under the impression it had to be reinforced and minimum 6" thick...
its not just thickness if the concrete is not strong it will just crumble ... like he said u shoulda tested it
Does that lift have the low profile arms? if it does Adam might look into the mohawk lift speed lane attachment. it might make lifting his lowered cars much easier. its a drive on system for a 2 post lift.
That's a pretty cool solution.
My cousin put in a two post in his 5 car garage and he said he went 10 inches minimum into the concrete. they poured 12 inches of concrete on purpose to compensate for the lift. 4inches is kinda sketchy but his cars don't weigh nothing anyways so you should be fine lol his lift has a 5 ton max limit so 10 inches sounds sufficient. Twin Busch doesn't have a manufacturer's suggestions for installing the lift? how deep or how much torque?
4in 110ft/lb
This is an accident waiting to happen, between wrong jacking points being used and the actual install. Wouldnt be so bad if some of you had an actual idea on how a hoist works. But its the blind leading the blind here!
Shaun Lowis pretty much lol
We'll figure it out.
anchor bolts need to be driven down about 5" then tighten. If you watch the install it was tapped down only about two and a half inches. The nuts were run down almost to where the thread would end, so it would feel like the nuts are tight because you ran out of threads. Four inches of concrete but your anchor bolts are only grabbing half of the thickness. They need to grab on all 4" of concrete.
The guy that inspects our hoist at the shop wouldn't approve the anchor point of the hoist near the cut in the concrete. You should check into it just to be safe!
Hey adam i have an e92 as well and i had that problem with the lang arm too
You can just put a pice of wood on the long arm and jake it up at the bmw jaking points with that
And hi from germany
Thanks man.
hey btw, the lifts arm ends should be able to lift up so the arm doesn't damage the skirts
surprised you didn't just back the car in instead of flipping the arms around, probably would be easier to direct the car in position in between the posts too
06:38 the 242A needs 2.65 gallons of hydraulic fluid.
There is a indicator on the tank.
doing any work on the passanger front is gunna suck even taking the wheel off... looks like you'll be pinned against the wall, which also isn't the safest thing to do..
the hoist should have been put in the middle bay.
jason demmink more space than I have in my garage and I manage to do plenty of stuff no worries. Only issue I've had is I can't slide the driveshafts out of a solid axle.
Great Video, did you end up seeing how much amp draw was while lifting a car.
Just over 15A.
Btw...One's likability directly correlates to whether they record vertically or not.
Hey adam what was he saying about the bolts stretching... theres no way they should stretch move or even shimmy... what type of concrete anchors did you use? Epoxy'd in? I enjoy your videos and dont wanna see anything bad happen or have chance to!
sorry meant thought was on the lz video lol my bad matt
I was just about to call it a day but o well I guess those cars will fix themselves cause il be asleep ha
I would have had an expert do the install. Worth it for the piece of mind alone, especially when the lift was so cheap. Not something you want to just wing it with. Also seems like the middle spot would have been a more ideal location...
love the vid! could you guys give me some advice on my first video
hey you can google lift points for all cars
Matt I was talking about Brian on the other video.
The short arm of the lift should be on the front of the vehicle and the long arm should be on the back, because there's more weigh in the front 😊 👍👍
u could always brace the 2 posts together at the top...
Now the question is, will you be getting a two post lift or scissor lift when you build your garage. Lets just say Adam was a test mule, and now that you guys have a better understanding of how a two post should be installed. Which are you leaning towards? That's if you still even want a lift lol.
Nick P haha! Thanks!
I'll definitely want a scissor lift. I don't get the appeal of a two post other than the cost savings. That is unless you own a business are concerned about efficiency.
you really cant do drive train work on a scissor lift, if you wanted to do a clutch swap or anything to do with the trans you'd be screwed with a scissor lift
with a scissor lift you can roll things under the car, and you can't even work under the car at all. Pointless to even have a scissor lift.
Obsessed Garage the appeal is you can get under the car and remove a transmission or exhaust and there is nothing in the way. or you can use it to take the body off a body-on-frame car.
Damn I miss Florida in December.
Call me stupid but i am pretty sure you are supposed to take an impact to the Red Heads.
I would run a bar across from one pillar to the other pillar and attach them. that way any inclination of the pillars to flex would be eliminated.
thats the way good lifts are built such as rotarys
What's better about Rotary? Chinese made just like most of them.
Obsessed Garage Rotary lifts are manufactured in Madison Indiana if i am not mistaken. At the shop I work at we have 4 12,000 pound lifts the youngest one being just shy of 16 years old and the most expensive repair we have ever had to do to them is replace the cables because they stretch. They get ran up and down every day at least a half doze times each. I am not trying to sound like a fan boy i love learning new stuff that is why I am a mechanic, if you can inform me on other reasons why say bend pack or twin bush lifts are better besides price let me know.
I'm not saying Twin Busch is better, I'm just saying it's not junk. I like them all. They all seem very similar to me with the exception of Mohawk that seems to be far superior.
Twin Busch is ok - for a weekend wrencher they are ok - they make quite big marketing but its not that common to see a twin busch lift here in germany/austria in a professional shop. If I would live in the US I would never consider buying a twin busch lift - you have good so much better lifts for the same price if not cheaper to be honest.
How are you going to pull wheels off a car with it up against that wall?
There is a little over 2' of space.
see that's why it should be hard wired in conduit
You have the short and long arms backwards. The short arms are for the heavier part of the car, where the engine is.
just to let you know the shorter arm is meant to be closes to the engine, its so the car and lift is balanced 👌
Lewis Farmer logic says it should go the way in the video? Why does the short arm have to go engine side!?
ThatGuyNamedScott. C Not sure why, but every shop I've been to and every lift my car has been on, the smaller arm is towards the front.
ThatGuyNamedScott. C it decreases leverage having the shorter arm on the engine side.
ThatGuyNamedScott. C so you can have it closest to the front of the car to take the engine weight so the car won't tip forward
Generally a car is heavier in the front. By having the arms shorter in the front it place the weight even on the post. As the car goes up its not trying to tip the post forward and pulling on the bolts. If its even then the the post are just pushing down on the pad and not trying to lift out of it on one side. With that said, by placing the car a bit towards the rear it also makes it easier to open the door wider making it easier to get in and out.
Matt, please tell Adam to get himself a super low trolley jack and use that to jack his cars up from the diff. This should raise them enough so you're able to swing both the front and rear hoist legs under the car with ease. It will save him soooooo much time in getting his low cars on and off the hoist. The ramps are useless for this application.
He said it draws 15 amps with nothing on it... if they ran a 20 amp circuit that definitely going to trip when a bigger car is being lifted.
Hey man I know you probably won't see this but when shaking the car you do it by the tire because if you shake the car it could accidentally fall off the lift
Yeah, that what I was testing to see. There seemed to be too much weight out front.
And the yanks laugh at paddy Irish man 🤣🤣
lol i feel bad seeing the struggles to lift the car you guys should have had Adam's friend Taylor show adam how to lift a car with a 2 post lift b4 the video you can you either of the rubber pads on the lift swing arm and they just have to on reinforced metal under the car
@22:28 ive seen this from thinner then shop grade slabs.
its an easy fix, need a steel brace added to the top in order to brace the posts, preventing them from leaning inward from the weight.
example pic.
rs202.pbsrc.com/albums/aa24/preprodigy/20161226_050320_zpsq6n9ygt6.png?w=480&h=480&fit=clip
in concrete only 8" thick the bolts drf stretched id say a good 1/8 to 1/4"?
this is typical, hand tightening the concrete anchors is one thing, but having about 1500+ lbs on each side of the lift that leverage without a top brace will def cause those anchors to fully stretch and bit into the concrete. as long as none of the anchors spin while u try to tighten or loosen a nut you are fine.
but again like stated in my first post, adding an aditional top brace. just like a strut tower brace on a car, it will take on that force making the pillars wanna move inward twords the weoght of the car.
get a local metal fabricator to make a top support n youre golden!
i work with auto lifts and just about everything else. just wouldnt be leaving the car up in air for long periods of time without supervision of the bolts until a top brace is secured in place
The posts are too short to add a top brace.
Obsessed Garage not if you make one that arches up and leaves room for the car.
like lain and my pic said. use an arched design on the top brace just like my photo attached in link
Don't they have rails you can get that you drive on instead of using the jack points?
C M B 1 4 1 6 4 7 4 post lifts are usually like that but then how do you take the wheels off?
4 posts have the ability to remove the wheels. Most have sliding frame jacks as an option.
And/or just use a floor jack on the platform itself. Depending on the design of course.
that clicking should be simultaneous that means it needs adjustment
why does it lose oil so fast
4" inch is plenty but I wouldn't install it if it was any less
1250 bucks? That cheap! Would be around 2200 bucks here in Denmark for a lift like that xD
Roman _ I tihnk it's fine, its more then Adam needs. ;)
Ha, ha... You got us bro.
what about a scissor lift then you could build some kind of permanent small ramps in front and behind the lift then there would be no need for the arms and the lowered cars would fit better cause he doesnt have the height in that garage to walk under the car without leaning he could still change oil and tires on it
woow!
In my honest opinion, I don't feel any upgrades to the concrete slab is necessary.
It is almost standard that all concrete slabs are 4" think, and can be assumed as such. I'm not so sure a company will be selling residential lifts (I am assuming) if they could not be installed on a 4" slab. The one thing that worries me is that there are bolts right on the control joints. I wouldn't put the swistracks back on over this area & I would just monitor to see if the concrete does start to develop cracking.
If you do decide to upgrade the slab, Pad footings will be all that is necessary. Without doing any loading calculations (this will probably be overkill anyway) I would do a 4' x 4' x 6" (or even 8" if you want to be super safe) deep pad footing complete with 5 15M rebar each way. Also, make sure that you dowel into the existing concrete slab before pouring so the new pad footing will be connected into the existing slab.
You can lift the car by the pinch points of unibody
They have to lift the Miata so they can lift the Miata. Lol
When your car's to low for your own lift
Lazar Nedeljkovic too* ;)
Personally I would've hit those bolts with a 1/2 inch pneumatic impact. From what we saw the guy used a crescent wrench... not tryin to be negative here, just an observation.
The Twin Busch scissor lift, Where can I find it for $1,250.00 ? On there site it list for $1,699.00 I really like it a lot and the fact it is movable is perfect.... Thanks for the video's....
www.twinbusch.com/product_info.php?products_id=1
Obsessed Garage thanks For the link I must have misunderstood I thought the scissor lift was $1,250.00. Thanks for the clarification
No access to to one side and you have to work on your knees or back underneath. A recessed scissor lift makes more sense.
on my lift if you lift the car and dont lower it like you guys were doing all you have to do is pull the cable and then you can lower the car. I'm not sure why you guys were having to pull the cables then go up with the lift again
But 100% a lift is something you have to get comfortable with. Once he finds all the lift points on the cars and puts them up a few times he will be comfortable with it. I was nervous and scared about mine the first few times too always took a lot of time to get my car up but now I can pull in throw the arms under and fully trust it
Joshdeor you are supposed to lower it onto the locks for safety.
Maybe you guys should have used an epoxy anchor instead of a wedge anchor. From my experience, epoxy is a whole lot stronger and once cured, impossible to remove.
Farhan Baiyat epoxy anchors should not be used in tension applications. Trust me, I’m a structural engineer.
Wow lol I would just kick the damn arms under the car and up we go lol I do that at work all the time hey works fine haha
That's what I figured. I've seen them throw cars up in the air in seconds. I'm sure Adam will have it all figured out soon.
Should of got a scissor lift. Waste of a 2 poster to be honest, only goes up half way before the roof of the car hits the ceiling, and still, you can't stand under it.
I don’t think you have followed the directions completely. When raising the lift, both safety locks should click simultaneously. Twin-Bush has a comprehensive installation video of this lift.
Never seen a twin Busch lift where you don't have a button to press for down.
I'd be worried about the lift. The reason I'm saying this is because I pour concrete and when a customer wants a lift you dig about 10-12 inches deeper where the posts for the lift are going to be installed. So I'd be worried but there could be a bright side and which they put "fiber" in the concrete which makes it stronger but I still wouldn't trust a car on that lift
Curious to why this company over Bendpak, maybe I missed a video where this was talked about idk? Also I know Bendpak has super low profile lift arms that would not require the use of ramps just to get a car to the proper height to use this lift. Using ramps before you can even make use of your lift seems counterproductive to the fullest. Not hating just curious. Update us on the concrete situation also when you speak to a specialist...
Edit: pause at 23:12 look at the top of the far right post, then jump to 24:11 way to much movement and the camera is stationary. Please, please, please check into this guys!
kh155 Twin Busch lifts are super tough high quality products. I think the one they are installing is their smallest twin post lift. The application is just super sketchy and the for lowered cars scissor lifts are always the way to go.
kh155 also all of Adams cars are slammed they are lowered probably 4 or 5 inches past stock height so even if you were to use a floor jack you still would need a ramp to lift to even get under it I think if it was a stick height car the arms would be fine