Great video ! Ordered and installed my new rotors and pads from 1AAuto with no issues... I should have also ordered the rear emergency brake shoes.. When i removed the old rear brake rotors, the brake shoe lining was just laying loose inside.. I recommend doing the e. brake shoes at the same time when doing the rear rotors.. Oh well,that's a job i'll tackle in the spring ! Thanks again,1AAuto for the quick service . I did struts and shocks earlier this year. (2001 Volvo V70)
When removing the anti-rattle clip, remove it from the holes first, not from around the brake pad. It will pop right off and you won't need to bend it back into shape afterwards.
I've just done this job. Although not shown here it is also necessary to apply grease to the metal sliding parts of the pads (Volvo even supply a sachet of grease for doing just that!). I know there is a debate about the need to open the bleed nipple but it is worth noting that the Volvo installation guidance, that comes with the pads, says the calliper piston can be pushed back without opening the bleed nipple (but need to keep an eye on the reservoir level). Also, if the nipple is opened, personally, I'm not sure the 'gravity bleed' method is a good idea. Maybe better to bleed properly - on all wheels on the circuit (Haynes manual seems to recommend this).
So does this mean you don't now have to bleed the other brakes (given that you may have let air into the system)? I thought all brakes had to be bled in a particular order.
do you really need to loosen the bleeder bolt in order to push the caliper back? i've never done that before neither seen someone done it are we all incorrect?
+ttop wop We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video may be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Что вы делаете, ? направляющие открытого типа нельзя ни чем смазывать! ПАЗОР! Вы не понимаете принцып работы этих суппартов! Очень обидно за ваших не грамотных мастеров! Есче и людям показываете свою техническую не грамотность!
First, the clip doesn't need to be removed at all unless replacing it. Second, use the old pad to compress the piston. The small surface area of the locking pliers may cause cracks or even punch a hole in the back of the cup; plus, it's easier. Third, cracking the bleeder valve just enough to allow fluid to pass while keeping positive clamping pressure on it during the compression of the piston, then seating the valve before removing the clamping pressure won't allow air to enter the system.
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Great. Particularly clear with minimun chat, but all the words we need! A difficult balance to achieve.
Great instructional video, the voice is smooth and points are concise and clear.
Great video ! Ordered and installed my new rotors and pads from 1AAuto with no issues... I should have also ordered the rear emergency brake shoes.. When i removed the old rear brake rotors, the brake shoe lining was just laying loose inside.. I recommend doing the e. brake shoes at the same time when doing the rear rotors.. Oh well,that's a job i'll tackle in the spring ! Thanks again,1AAuto for the quick service . I did struts and shocks earlier this year. (2001 Volvo V70)
Excellent video.
Better then most other I have watched on the same subject.
Great detail explaining.
Well done, it helped me alot.
When removing the anti-rattle clip, remove it from the holes first, not from around the brake pad. It will pop right off and you won't need to bend it back into shape afterwards.
I've just done this job. Although not shown here it is also necessary to apply grease to the metal sliding parts of the pads (Volvo even supply a sachet of grease for doing just that!). I know there is a debate about the need to open the bleed nipple but it is worth noting that the Volvo installation guidance, that comes with the pads, says the calliper piston can be pushed back without opening the bleed nipple (but need to keep an eye on the reservoir level). Also, if the nipple is opened, personally, I'm not sure the 'gravity bleed' method is a good idea. Maybe better to bleed properly - on all wheels on the circuit (Haynes manual seems to recommend this).
+Mel Smith Thanks for checking us out!
Thanks for the tips!
I appreciate this xc70 series. Thank you!
Great video! I wasn't aware that you have too open the bleeder for the rear on the Volvo. Never did rear discs before, so I'm glad I watched this.
Best V70 brake video ever
Caliper mounting bracket torque spec?
So does this mean you don't now have to bleed the other brakes (given that you may have let air into the system)? I thought all brakes had to be bled in a particular order.
do you really need to loosen the bleeder bolt in order to push the caliper back? i've never done that before neither seen someone done it are we all incorrect?
I've done my brakes before without bleeding them. I think it's to make new brake fluid is thru the system.
Watch the video and you'll see why she did it
Exactly what I was looking for.
P-E-R-F-E-C-T tutorial nicely explained and detailed !! Awesome work ! 😍 😃 🔧🔨 🚗
So when you bleed it you just open it and wait? Don't pump on gas pedal or anything?
Great instruction
Thanks
thanks for your help !!
+Francois Nicolas Mcnichols Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Is the 99 v70 the same?
+ttop wop We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video may be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hi
How change rear suspesion V70 2002 ??
Regarda
Artur
+Artur K We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto
Super 😀 Good idea add May 2022 and add replacement of metal brake hoses
My brakes are different. I cant find a video
Что вы делаете, ? направляющие открытого типа нельзя ни чем смазывать! ПАЗОР! Вы не понимаете принцып работы этих суппартов! Очень обидно за ваших не грамотных мастеров! Есче и людям показываете свою техническую не грамотность!
do not flush the caliper guides!to read the VIDA
First, the clip doesn't need to be removed at all unless replacing it. Second, use the old pad to compress the piston. The small surface area of the locking pliers may cause cracks or even punch a hole in the back of the cup; plus, it's easier. Third, cracking the bleeder valve just enough to allow fluid to pass while keeping positive clamping pressure on it during the compression of the piston, then seating the valve before removing the clamping pressure won't allow air to enter the system.
Woman mechanic, never seen it in my life. It is awesome though!
+se taps Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c