This is the first I will be removing the front shocks to replace the dust covers and bump stops which have disintegrated. Having watched your video and Autodoc's I am confident I can do the job. I wlll mark the position of the 2 strut bolts to hopefully avoid any camber issues. But I am confused with torgue values as getting conflicting values. What are the values using the existing bolts. A -Top strut 21mm nut - (65Nm or 67Nm) B - Top 3 strut mount bolts E12 - (50Nm or 20Nm +45 degrees or 40Nm ) ?? C - Bottom 2 bolts 21mm -shock strut to steering knuckle (95Nm or 120Nm+90 degrees) ?? Haynes manual gives ( I assume for new bolts /nuts ) A = 67Nm B = 20Nm +45 C = 120Nm +90 Many thanks
Why torque first to 120nm, and tighten another 45degrees? Could that not just have been like for example 200nm or so at once ? The thing you do here i can imagine if you took new bolts, since they probably stretch (new) like cylinder head studs.. but doing this on used bolts im not so sure! Nice job anyway and did you alter the camber or caster, or it basically came back to factory specs ? Since i could not find a way to alter it unless using plates or holes modified to slide, the ball joint can only alter the caster i found out best to have most centered position possible, because you're always in the green zone with alignment. But, i like to know what happened here.
@@-_-_-.... You're right those are specs for new bolts. If you reuse them it's at your own risk. Anyway I recommend an alignment at the shop because camber can vary after the job. Good luck
@@ticktime6569, Okay.. so i suggest you shouldn't do the 45° again ! 😂 you really don't want one of those snapped. About the camber on this car, it cannot be adjusted or come out of factory spec unless there's been an accident or something before, or a pothole hit really hard.. then maybe. But just swapping it should be fine because i've did it a few times and always had the camber value in the green zone at the alignment, only thing that can be messed with a little is the caster, wich alters very slightly by moving the ball joint. For the rest theres no options except camber plates and so on, so long story short a swap on a good car without damage cant.. just go wrong 😊
@@-_-_-.... On wis it's shown that camber can be modified playing with the upper bolt of the shock. I think it's true because after the job mine was out of camber
@@ticktime6569, Well i like to see that. Because the strut bearings are fixed position there's no bean shaped hole or anything to go exentric. So it is fixed. Only adjustable is the caster on the ball joint bolts. For the rest theres no adjusting points. Altough camber can change , if you ever hit a pothole very hard or something similar in the past. Also with aftermarket shocks the holes can be a bit off.. but.. settings for camber ? No.. only by enlarging the holes/camberplates. I had several swaps just literally swaps and never ever ended up in the red zone, always green zone. So.. in wis you say but i cant find that on the car 2011 2012 w169
This is the first I will be removing the front shocks to replace the dust covers and bump stops which have disintegrated.
Having watched your video and Autodoc's I am confident I can do the job.
I wlll mark the position of the 2 strut bolts to hopefully avoid any camber issues.
But I am confused with torgue values as getting conflicting values.
What are the values using the existing bolts.
A -Top strut 21mm nut - (65Nm or 67Nm)
B - Top 3 strut mount bolts E12 - (50Nm or 20Nm +45 degrees or 40Nm ) ??
C - Bottom 2 bolts 21mm -shock strut to steering knuckle (95Nm or 120Nm+90 degrees) ??
Haynes manual gives ( I assume for new bolts /nuts )
A = 67Nm
B = 20Nm +45
C = 120Nm +90
Many thanks
👍♥️thanks
Best video
Why torque first to 120nm, and tighten another 45degrees? Could that not just have been like for example 200nm or so at once ? The thing you do here i can imagine if you took new bolts, since they probably stretch (new) like cylinder head studs.. but doing this on used bolts im not so sure! Nice job anyway and did you alter the camber or caster, or it basically came back to factory specs ? Since i could not find a way to alter it unless using plates or holes modified to slide, the ball joint can only alter the caster i found out best to have most centered position possible, because you're always in the green zone with alignment. But, i like to know what happened here.
@@-_-_-.... You're right those are specs for new bolts. If you reuse them it's at your own risk. Anyway I recommend an alignment at the shop because camber can vary after the job. Good luck
@@ticktime6569, Okay.. so i suggest you shouldn't do the 45° again ! 😂 you really don't want one of those snapped. About the camber on this car, it cannot be adjusted or come out of factory spec unless there's been an accident or something before, or a pothole hit really hard.. then maybe. But just swapping it should be fine because i've did it a few times and always had the camber value in the green zone at the alignment, only thing that can be messed with a little is the caster, wich alters very slightly by moving the ball joint. For the rest theres no options except camber plates and so on, so long story short a swap on a good car without damage cant.. just go wrong 😊
@@-_-_-.... On wis it's shown that camber can be modified playing with the upper bolt of the shock. I think it's true because after the job mine was out of camber
@@ticktime6569, Well i like to see that. Because the strut bearings are fixed position there's no bean shaped hole or anything to go exentric. So it is fixed. Only adjustable is the caster on the ball joint bolts. For the rest theres no adjusting points. Altough camber can change , if you ever hit a pothole very hard or something similar in the past. Also with aftermarket shocks the holes can be a bit off.. but.. settings for camber ? No.. only by enlarging the holes/camberplates. I had several swaps just literally swaps and never ever ended up in the red zone, always green zone. So.. in wis you say but i cant find that on the car 2011 2012 w169
@@-_-_-.... If you're right then it's better. When I brought the car they told me it was out of camber. Honestly I don't know what to say