Love the vids. Knowledge is key. 1st time powerglide build. Building one for my friend that got a monte with a dart stroker engine. The guy he got it from thought it was about to sling the bottom end apart. My friend got it and did a big hole shot burnout when he got it home. It literally broke the entire bellhousing off and the tailshaft off. Whoever built the powerglide had put a lot of expensive performance parts in it for a manual shift with transbrake type transmission. Whoever built it for some insane incompetent reason had put a bone stock pump in it (NO SUPPORT BUSHING) in the stator tube but did have the turbo input shaft. Luckily the complete donor transmission had a nice 176 planetary in it to replace the old one
I'm really enjoying this series...... Are you going to make more videos when your done with this series, on other model transmissions I hope so cause you are very through in your tech.
We're covering bands in the next episode. As far as band adjustment goes, correct Powerglide band adjustment is to tighten the band adjuster screw to 72-inch/lbs., then back the adjuster out counterclockwise 3 and 1/2 turns. Tighten the jam nut while preventing the band adjuster screw from moving.
Everything is powerglide lol. What about TH350’s? I saw one on the dyno and that was it. There are still a lot of us out here using them. I installed your kit in mine at least 3 years ago behind a small block 409 with close to 600HP. Can you do some talk on TH350’s for us? Like what parts are good up to how much HP and maybe what’s the best fluid? What’s the max HP that you have put to it before it breaks? That would really be awesome! Thanks
Pete, great videos. My question is about machining the piston to the point where the tangs on the steel plate will disengage from the slots in the drum. I've created my own plates with extended tangs to reach the drum slots, but I'm not happy with them. What solutions are available for this? Thanks!
I’ve got a 10 disc drum that I’ve assembled by the book step by step. I measured my clearances and it was good, but after I got done assembling it I put the input shaft into it to see if it would turn it won’t. If I shake it I can hear the piston moving like it should. Are the 10 discs hard to turn by hand or did I do something wrong?
Are factory 4 clutch drums different from 5 clutch drums? I have a feeling my 1.82 came with a 4 clutch and was wondering if I could use that drum when I upgrade to 6 clutches? Or will I need a 5 clutch for that to work? Thanks
I have a sonnax 10 clutch drum, I've heard people talking about running 9 clutches or 7 (mix matched thinner and thicker to be in spec on clearance.) Is there really that much to be gained but running a lesser number of clutches on a drum designed for 10? I have heard anywhere from .05-.1 clutch tolerance I assume looser is better but don't want to run out of travel on the apply Piston or have slow shifts. My setup will only be making 900~ at the wheels so I'm just wondering if I'm giving up a lot of power but running 10 disc setup when I most like only need 7-8
Generally speaking, anything you can do to increase steel mass in a clutch pack will result in increased overall clamping force & durability of said clutch pack. As such, using 7 or 8 thin friction plates with 7 or 8 thicker steel plates could, in theory, provide increased overall clamping ability in a PG 10-clutch drum. That being said, we've ran the 10/10 thin friction/thin steel set-up into the 3-second zone in the 1/8th mile, so there's definitely something to be said for this clutch pack set-up as well. Ultimately, it really boils down to builder preference. At 900 HP, you have no bad options. We like to set our direct clutch packs up at .010-inch clearance per friction plate in our Powerglides.
@@HughesPerformance really appreciate the reply, I'll probably be getting ahold of you guys on payday (Friday) to order some more parts. I still gotta get a band, hardened adjuster, sonnax servo and a few other misc seals. I'm gunna attempt to build it myself with a little supervision from a friend
Love the vids. Knowledge is key. 1st time powerglide build. Building one for my friend that got a monte with a dart stroker engine. The guy he got it from thought it was about to sling the bottom end apart. My friend got it and did a big hole shot burnout when he got it home. It literally broke the entire bellhousing off and the tailshaft off. Whoever built the powerglide had put a lot of expensive performance parts in it for a manual shift with transbrake type transmission. Whoever built it for some insane incompetent reason had put a bone stock pump in it (NO SUPPORT BUSHING) in the stator tube but did have the turbo input shaft. Luckily the complete donor transmission had a nice 176 planetary in it to replace the old one
Thanks Pete. I thought I knew a thing or two about Powerglides but there's obviously more. Always look forward to your next vid.
I love these videos! I've learned so much and I know who to call when I need a transmission or parts. They really know their stuff.
Thanks very much!!
Thank you..
I'm really enjoying this series...... Are you going to make more videos when your done with this series, on other model transmissions I hope so cause you are very through in your tech.
That's our plan! 🙂
Thanks for the videos. Can you talk about band adjustment and the pin length
We're covering bands in the next episode. As far as band adjustment goes, correct Powerglide band adjustment is to tighten the band adjuster screw to 72-inch/lbs., then back the adjuster out counterclockwise 3 and 1/2 turns. Tighten the jam nut while preventing the band adjuster screw from moving.
Hughes Performance Thank you. I am referring to the pin from the servo to the band
Everything is powerglide lol. What about TH350’s? I saw one on the dyno and that was it. There are still a lot of us out here using them. I installed your kit in mine at least 3 years ago behind a small block 409 with close to 600HP. Can you do some talk on TH350’s for us? Like what parts are good up to how much HP and maybe what’s the best fluid? What’s the max HP that you have put to it before it breaks? That would really be awesome! Thanks
what about the pump tabs, I got a 1200hp rated PG from vickers and I made it 5 miles before they just sheared off completely
Pete, great videos. My question is about machining the piston to the point where the tangs on the steel plate will disengage from the slots in the drum. I've created my own plates with extended tangs to reach the drum slots, but I'm not happy with them. What solutions are available for this? Thanks!
My power glide leaks everywhere and doesn’t need a rebuild. Do you guys sell just a seal kit? Especially front pump seal.
I’ve got a 10 disc drum that I’ve assembled by the book step by step. I measured my clearances and it was good, but after I got done assembling it I put the input shaft into it to see if it would turn it won’t. If I shake it I can hear the piston moving like it should. Are the 10 discs hard to turn by hand or did I do something wrong?
Are factory 4 clutch drums different from 5 clutch drums? I have a feeling my 1.82 came with a 4 clutch and was wondering if I could use that drum when I upgrade to 6 clutches? Or will I need a 5 clutch for that to work? Thanks
I have a sonnax 10 clutch drum, I've heard people talking about running 9 clutches or 7 (mix matched thinner and thicker to be in spec on clearance.)
Is there really that much to be gained but running a lesser number of clutches on a drum designed for 10? I have heard anywhere from .05-.1 clutch tolerance I assume looser is better but don't want to run out of travel on the apply Piston or have slow shifts. My setup will only be making 900~ at the wheels so I'm just wondering if I'm giving up a lot of power but running 10 disc setup when I most like only need 7-8
Generally speaking, anything you can do to increase steel mass in a clutch pack will result in increased overall clamping force & durability of said clutch pack. As such, using 7 or 8 thin friction plates with 7 or 8 thicker steel plates could, in theory, provide increased overall clamping ability in a PG 10-clutch drum.
That being said, we've ran the 10/10 thin friction/thin steel set-up into the 3-second zone in the 1/8th mile, so there's definitely something to be said for this clutch pack set-up as well.
Ultimately, it really boils down to builder preference. At 900 HP, you have no bad options.
We like to set our direct clutch packs up at .010-inch clearance per friction plate in our Powerglides.
@@HughesPerformance really appreciate the reply, I'll probably be getting ahold of you guys on payday (Friday) to order some more parts. I still gotta get a band, hardened adjuster, sonnax servo and a few other misc seals. I'm gunna attempt to build it myself with a little supervision from a friend
You're welcome! They're a fun transmission to build. We will be happy to help any way we can! 😉
Is the wedding band needed? It makes my input shaft really difficult to install
Daniel Moody lol yes it is 😂