My father had some tasco 1000m binoculars from the late 90s (1998 i think) he gave to me when i was a kid because he knocked them off a table and they had double image, Ive had them for 15 years and for some random reason i found this video today that finally showed me how to take it apart and found the adjustment screws for the prism (its external, so i just cleaned everything and put it back together again), and i was like "sure, lets give it a go" a tiny screwdriver and half a turn later, bam. spot on. perfect as far as my eyes are concerned, i can finally use them. My father was very happy to hear and use them again. Thank you very much
I used to service and collimate binoculars as a part of my old job. I don't miss working on them, but some of the older ones were so beautifully made that I had to admire them for the quality of their engineering.
Good thing I watched this video. I recently bought a pair of cheap binos for star gazing.. I had a real time trying to collimate them. I figured out that one of the prisms on the left front was knocked out of it's perch. I could see where it was off the 10 degrees that it was showing. I could see where the glue cracked and it had a pair of shims still in place. I removed and cleaned the prism and got it back seated in the glue and screwed it back down. I collimated them and they work very well now. I never would have known what to look for if it wasn't for this hands on guide. Merry Christmas.
Smashing video! I won a Swift 10x50 porro binocular on fleabay, Supposedly they were working fine but collimation was so bad that I got in touch with the seller to return them, He wouldn't reply to me so I opened a case, He still didn't respond so Ebay reimbursed me, I was about to put them in the bin when I noticed a gap between one of the objective bells and the prism cover, It had been refitted by someone cross threaded! It was really difficult to remove but I eventually unscrewed it, I did what you said by turning it anti clockwise until it clicked, About the third or fourth attempt it meshed with the threads correctly and screwed home easily- Collimation was spot on!! The innards were very clean and a nice bright/crisp and clear image was there after!!👍😎
Just found my old 1966 Technor binoculars. These did not work at all for well over 50 years. I followed your video and hey presto they are now in full working order, thanks to your video. Thanks again Russell
This is, to my knowledge, the best internet guide to cleaning and repairing old Japanese binoculars! Right now I'm servicing a recently aquired Zenith 7x50.
I wanted to take the time to say Thankyou for putting this together. I bought an old pair from an opportunity shop and saw that they were still aligned. For $25 AUD I thought...Meh... They are antiques. Maybe I can pay a little money and get them cleaned. Then I thought... I wonder.... How hard it would be to clean them. After watching your video.... I was able to successfully follow your instructions and clean the prisms and lenses. Now I have two pairs. The original that I purchased new and the more robust antique micronar pair made in Japan. I recommend this Video..
Cool vid. Thanks Managed to take this old pair apart and back together. I found that using a bright flashlight on the optics exposes all the dirt clearly on the lenses, even after you think you got em cleaned....there is still some left.
Thanks a lot for this video. I accidentaly droped my binoculars, leaving one eye completly blind but, thanks to you, i fixed them and now they work flawlessly!!!
Thanks for this video. I just took apart my old Sears 7x35 binoculars and they come apart just as you describe here. I am glad to get them all cleaned up and bright and clear again. I have had them since I was a kid 40+ years ago.
I have worked on over 300 pairs of binoculars. I clean, tune, and collimate them, to be the best that each pair can be. They are not all created equal. Precise collimation is an art. Some binoculars are defective or are such junk that they really aren't worth the time it takes to get them servicable. But there are some older brands that were magnificently built, and they are rugged. Such as steel turrets, prisms are clamped, screwed AND glued into position. The ocular lens rings are made of metal. The crane is all metal. So is the adjustment wheel. Casings are sealed. Screws are loxked into place with threadlock. And so on and so on. Built to withstand and built to last. That all seemed to begin to change in early 70's - 80's. Much in the way vehicles began to be made cheap. Its funny that Id be the first to say that Tasco made junk. However, Tasco had some that were superb. It was either hit or miss with their binoculars and it depended on which factory they had manufacture them and brand them as Tasco. I have a pair that are so sharp that they sort of hurt the eyes
I took my first pair of binos apart yesterday to address a fungus on the prisms issue. This is a pair of 7x35 11 degree with removable prism plate. I did remove the prism plates from the binocular body to better clean the prisms. Note I was not quite so foolish to remove the prisms from the prism plates. HOWEVER, upon attempting to put the prism plates back I "discovered" that the three screws that hold the prism plate down also seem to play some role in the prism plate tilting as there are grub screws next to each main screw which seem to be causing various tilts when tightening up the prism plate. And it seems that the order in which you tighten the screws to put the prism plate back affects the final tilt of the prism plate. Ok fine, so I put everything back together as best I could and then found my alignment was off. This was fixed with an eccentric ring collimation of the main lenses using stars at night. This worked but presently an interesting observation. Turning the right lens did not improve collimation at all. In fact, all if did was cause the star I was using for collimation to either disappear all together or reappear as I turned the lens. Turning the left lens did work well and allowed collimation for a single star image. However, I read somewhere that messing with the prisms for collimation would reduce the image quality. And the incident where turning the right lens caused the star to appear and disappear makes me think the light path of the prism could be really out whack. Am I understanding that wrong? Which lead to the question, how does one properly re-install a prism plate to get the optimal light path (independent of what might happen later if eccentric ring tweaking is needed). Thank you.
Hi Simon, As you suggested, there was a screw from the ipd adjustment side. I could open and clean the optics without any problem. However, now I have double vision problem. I saw in another youtube video about the adjustment screws and was able to locate them. Thank a lot for the help.
Thanks for this. I’ve got an old British. (50s?) pair of 10.5 x40 that are pretty sweet. But the rhs is filthy hazy. I’ll have to do this but I’ll do the rhs only so I know where any col faults may arise. Didn’t know about marking objective lens, over tightening causes double image. Will be aware of that. Very clear vid. Thanks.
I have a pair of binoculars which i need to clean, this video will help me to do that. just need a pencil from Ikea to mark the lenses where and how to put it back 🙂
This is the most helpful video on how to do this that I have been able to find on the internet. I'm now in the process of doing this to a pair of very nice 7x35 porro prism binoculars with a wide field of 10.1* Do you know of any more videos on servicing this type of binoculars I would very much appreciate it. Thank you!
Thanks for this video. Last night i dug out my old PRISMA 20x50s to do some stargazing with my daughter. They've been in the loft for at least two decades and have a lot of mould in the lenses. I don't think they have any real value so i'm going to follow your guide and see if i can clean them myself.
Thanks for a fascinating video Simon. Would you be so kind as to do a video of how to disassemble and clean a pair of Taylor-Hobson no2 MkIII Army binoculars? I have a pair and am a big fan of their build quality, but need to give them a clean internally as they are rather hazy and have some dust on the lenses. I also need to rotate the graticule in the right eye piece as it has slipped almost vertical. Thank you!
After watching a Buzzard circling above the house, a neighbour, yesterday, gifted me a pair of, heavy, unwanted Anchor Optical Corp 7x50 WW11 US binoculars clearly with dirty lenses and/or prisms your grrreat video has inspired me to... 'have a go!?' I do wonder if it will be plain-sailing, though?
hello Simon I must admit not bad I've been repairing binoculars and other Optical instruments going 35 years ! Everybody out there do not try to repair old binoculars from around the World War II era especially Zeiss Jena they seal them in wax to try to make them waterproof. also prisons begin to get brittle over many years crack very easily and the Precision that they used back in the thirties and forties was extraordinary. and please remember some binoculars are not meant to be taken apart by an amateur many of them even the pro has a hard time. that's why many companies that make cheap binoculars don't even try to repair them they just replace them. and on high end binoculars don't even attempt to repair them send them to a pro or the manufacturer. otherwise Simon not bad it's a dying craft and there's not many of us left ! 😔🔬🔭
Hello Simon, My dad had a real nice pair of Sears 7X35 when i was a kid. I was really amazed by them. Then when i was in the Army and deployed for the first Gulf War, i became addicted to the military Steiner's we had. So i started collecting military glass. I have several pairs of German IF 6X30's that need cleaned. Have you ever done a pair of them? It seems that the KF grease has hardened it seems like the objective caps are glued on or something. if you ever clean a pair could you post a vid? Thanks, -Steve
As you can see I to have a ridiculous collection of binoculars and know what you mean about that black tar like waterproofing. Warm them on a radiator and use a strap wrench to get them moving. What make are they?
Can you recommend (or do!) a good video or article on collimating these types of binoculars? Mine appear to be similar to the ones in this video, they don't seem to have any collimation screws that I can see so many of the articles on the net which describe a process of finding the collimation screws buried under the rubber or something don't apply...
Can I use Isopropyl on coated lens surfaces? Nice work!! A good instructional video thanks for all the advice. Using gloves advice also a great idea. Sliced my thumb trying to take out the objective lenses from the front. Caught it in the little ridge! But it is somewhat difficult to clean through the screw in opening due to the grease placed on the threads. So having no grease I had to be very careful to not touch those outer threads with the cloth on the edges. Best to clean the threads firstly I assume?
Hi Simon. Fantastic video. As a result of watching it and doing some further research, I cleaned and collimated some cheap porro binoculars I bought from a charity shop and achieved a fantastic result. In fact I was so inspired that I bought some Carl Zeiss Jena 10x50 bins to service...............but I fell at the first hurdle. I can't get the focusing bridge off to get at the top lenses. I've spent hours trying to work out how to do it, but just can't figure it out. Unlike the porro binoculars, there is no cap at the bottom to allow me access to the screw; just a flat plate with a number on it. Can you or anyone else on this site help. I can't wait to get started and the frustration is driving me nuts!!
Ah Yes you won't on a German binocular Roy! Remove the IPD cover and loosed the tiny grub screw that locks the big centre screw. You will almost have to remove it. Then your back on track.
Thanks Simon...........you're a star. When I've cleaned them I may well be back in touch as I will need to collimate them and I can't see how to do this at present. On the porro bins that I services there were some tiny screws on the barrel which I adjusted. But I can't see these on the Jena's.........very confusing!! Thanks again.
They used black goo to seal the metal flanges on these 1970s metal binoculars. What was it and what to use in its place? Silicone would be a too strong bond I'm afraid.
Hello Simon, I have a pair of ZOMZ Kronos BNU 7x50 Olympic issue binoculars (the same as the ones on your flickr page), and I noticed that there were a few black specks in the right ocular (maybe 2 small specks). The reason why I think they are in the ocular is because when I rotate the right eye focus, I notice the specks rotating accordingly. My question is, how can I disassemble the right ocular lens, in order to clean it from the inside? And what tools would I need? Thank you in advance.
this pair of binoculars are identical to a pair i bought in the mid-seventies. i still have them and they have served me well. the make of mine are PHILO. i see that IKEA are missing a pencil - lol
Thanks, Simon. Amazing video. So, assuming I do this exactly the way you describe, am I safe cleaning a vintage pair of Zeiss binoculars (not holding you to this, just curious to know)? I read somewhere that some binoculars are gas filled etc. Thanks again.
Dear Simon I saw the comment of Rangeme about military glasses, I have a Dutch military Zeiss clone, brandname " Nedinsco" Venlo, 7x50. It has to be realigned and it also has that black sealing. Do you have or know a video about these types?
@@SoddingaboutSi Thanks for your reply. I don't have one. Is it possible to get it from somewhere else? Please advise as I'm not able to find these prisms anywhere.
Fantastic video - thank you! If you or anyone else is able to help please I'd be most grateful - I have a very old set of almost identical looking 10 x 50 binoculars with a broken 'bridge strap' / 'EP strap' (?) - aluminium bit thingy that connects the LH eyepiece to the rest of the "ocular" (as you referred to it at the end). I'm wondering if there is anywhere I might buy a replacement (and cheaply because the binoculars aren't worth much as it is)? Also the correct name of the part? Thank you in advance :-) Failing that I'll have a crack at some sort of repair. I did see a post and photos on cloudynights forum from someone who did just that. He referred to the part as an 'EP bridge' and someone else I emailed referred to it as a 'bridge strap' but from googling I can't tell if either one is the correct term.
Simon, you have an impressive collection I noticed elsewhere. I'd like to present an issue I'm dealing with. My focus is stuck, so much so, the focus knob sheared off of the brass (?) cerrated axle in the centre of the bridge. Said axle is totally stuck. Any tips on getting it unstuck? The grease has turned to a right tar (I'm hoping to 3d print a new focusing knob)
@@SoddingaboutSiIt's an old Companion 15x65. I could remove the helical axle, like you mention in this video. But it seems the brass axle is stuck in the aluminium tube. Update: it was threaded. To remove the objective bells: were held in place by thread and locked by 2 locking screws for each bell hidden beneath more black tar. (Not collimation screws).
hi simon, we have almost the same binos. My problem is that they need collimitation and i cant find any screws like the newer binoculars to fix them. After the service you did how did you collimitated them?
Hello ! query ... do you have any idea what paint or material is used to repair the chipped paint of the carl zeiss of the 20s, 40s ... it is like a hard textured paint. thank you very much?
I usef to use a gloss model paint then just before it was totally dry dab it repeatedly with a cotton rag to get the matt effect. Worked well after practice. Matt was too dull.
Hello! I picked up an Auriol Zoom binoculars today. I can't see through the lens very well. Probably why the owner didn't want them. They are quite clean. Should I use your method to clean them? It would be a shame to throw them away in my opinion. Thank you.
And seen that there is a tool to remove the tubes that hold the eyepieces when they are too hard to do it with their hand, a type key that wraps the eyepiece with a rubber ribbon. What's your name? I need it so I can disarm some carl zeiss from about 100 years ago.
Simon. Thks for Sharing! I have a celestron 20x50 that recently appears a deffect ... it seems like an additional light entrance close of pupil diameter. What could be the problem?. Any advice guys is very welcome. Thanks in advance!
Another very interesting vid. I thought I would do my old CZ Jena Jenoptems, but I fell at the first hurdle.... I can't get the end cap off to undo the screw for the focussing bridge. This is the button with the serial no. It looks like it is pressed in. How can I remove it? TIA
I Inherited a pair of nikmis 8X 30 binoculars. The right eye is blurry. Kindly advice what to do I have searched everywhere and couldnt find anything. Guess they dont make it anymore
I've got a Pentax 12x50 model 565. But I've never succeeded in opening the cap for accessing the center screw. Also I've tried to open the front lens but it can't be turned. Don't know how.
Hi Simon, I am needing to work on a few pairs of Bausch and Lomb Zephyr binoculars from the mid/late 1950's made in Rochester, NY, Is this something I can reasonably do myself, I have good mechanical skills, but don't know the first thing about binoculars, they need cleaned as they have fungus and a snowflake in one and the other is just age and the normal accumulation of dust, I am unsure on how they are collimated and don't want to risk destroying a pair of binoculars with history and class if its something I'd better leave to a professional however I love learning new things and have always been a tinkerer preferring to fix things myself so I know they're done right.
Just a quick tip for all of you. Sharpen your pencil to a fine point and only mark once! I know this sounds very obvious and that is because it is. If you have a blunt pencil (instrument) and you are making your mark three or four times you might aswell not do it at all and just eyeball everything. Sharp pencil, mark Once! Get it, got it, good!
Hello, i have 8×30 БПЦ4 Russian binoculars and i have some fog on both lenses, i tried putting silica gel and it didn't work, if you could help me on how to open them and clean the lens. Thanks! :)
Hi Simon, The video is great. I am trying to clean fungus in my Bresser Cobra, 7x50 bino. I removed the cap as you suggested. But there is no screw inside. Is this different in the case of Bresser Corbra?
I have a couple pairs of Swift Audubon 8.5x44 binoculars that need quite a bit of restoration work (one of them is out of alignment, the other was left out in the rain and is permanently foggy). Do you recommend against me trying to service them myself? Can you recommend a place to get them serviced. I’m in the US. Thanks!!!
There are too good to risk repairing yourself. I'm in the UK so no idea of a good service centre. You may find a collimation and clean in not financially viable.
I paid 20 bucks on marketplace for two of them. Unfortunatly 1 of them has a missing lens-part of the tube. And the other one does not focus with the wheel.
Hello Simon your videi was helpful as my binoculars were in need of a clean. Suddenly just as you were putting the binoculars together the video came to an end. Help. I need to know how to correctly fit the lens adjusting mechanism. How can I find the re-assembly video?
Hello Simon thanks for getting back to me. The video is 16.30 minutes long. I have watched all of it. Just as you pick up the adjusting mechanism at 16.29 minutes, it ends. The next part I really really need to see so I can put my Saturn binoculars back together again. At the moment they are like Humpty Dumpty. I have cleaned lenses and prisms etc but the double worm screws are my problem. There must be a simple technique.
Thanks Simon. I thought a photo might be helpful but I cannot upload for you. My Saturn focus adjusting mechanism looks jut like your Borro. I am happ to send a photo by email. Also if there is some way I can the rest of the video that would help.
Thanks for disassembling your binoculars. I wonder if you're still on youtube? because I would need a tip, Got a pair of vintage binoculars, of the brand zenith7x50 triple tested field 71 *. but I can not displace the angle so they fit my eyes, Well how do I do. have tried with m 56 but do not want to open them. can you help? Thank you for your response.PP Sweden
I have some dirt on inside of my 70'S binoculars, and i can't work out how it can happen seeing as how they're totally sealed in factory? Also is it not the case that they're vacuum sealed at factory, or is that only the high end bins?
@@SoddingaboutSi They are same design, prinz (dixons) circa.1976 , always been very well cared for, kept in original case always, with original silica pouch.
Hi Mark I just bought a Swift Audubon mk2 8.5x44 binocular that is beautifully bright and clear but as soon as I arrived home and tried them again I found that something is jamming the focus mechanism, I've been advised to remove the focus shaft as there may be some crud in the threads, I'm a bit loathe to take them apart as the last set I stripped ended up in the bin!! 😲 It didn't do it when I was trying the bins!! Would you say this is a job an amateur could accomplish?, Cheers 👍🙂
@@SoddingaboutSi , I checked that as soon as I watched your excellent video!! (I have about five binoculars that are dirty inside to have a play with!, Some are out of collimation though!!)
@@aflatminor The Audubon is a nice good quality binocular. I would consider getting it serviced by a pro. This video was freally or the budget sub 50 quid .
@@SoddingaboutSi, Could you recommend someone to service them? I have no idea of anyone that does this type of work!! Many thanks for the the replies 👍😎
I've been trying to work on a pair of 14yr old Hanimex 8x30 binoculars. The problem is that I can't remove the focus bridge, because once I remove the cap at the objective end there's no screw inside the shaft, just some gluey stuff. It's completely flush. So I only got to clean the objective prisms. Also the right adjustable eyepiece unscrews all the way off, and I don't know if that's normal or I broke it.
Hi, I've got an old binocular, too but the part at 02:05 is lost (i dont know the name of it) could you explain what its is, what kind of lens, that's a single len or some?
I have an old 70's to early 80's Carl Zeiss monocular . I want to clean internally before selling them on Ebay . Are their any other steps before doing a high shelf optic ? Such as coatings or nitrogen etc ? Thank You and God Bless
The monocular is 8x30 B 539160 .I copied a link to a similar set on Ebay the serial number is slightly earlier however . God Blessed me with this find . As I was leaving the thrift store . I cought out of my periphery an optic . I asked the clerk to take out of case as I couldn't see the Brand as they sat . As well even if they had been bushnell I would have picked up for personal use . Upon seeing the brand I was as you can imagine glad . Not to mention upon turning them over and seeing the price tag at 50 cents . I couldn't get the change out of my pocket fast enough . I am somewhat familiar with optics and lenses to a point . However if you could give me an idea of the best course of action . I would be forever in your debt Thank You for the consideration . God Bless
Hi Simon I have some old binoculars that my grandfather gave me. I don’t think they are particularly old probably 1970s or have any monetary value. I was looking at them for the first time in many years and they look milky or foggy when viewing. I assume this is a internal problem can they be repaired ? Regards Chris
Simon Spiers They look very similar. I will have to go and find them, just packed them away as I did not have the heart to bin them even though the view was rubbish.
Simon Spiers just found them and they look pretty cheap and crusty, Prinz 16x50 made in Hong Kong. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRINZ-Binoculars-16-x-50-With-Strap-and-Case-/302446570818 looks same as this ebay listing. I think I must have look through them for the first time in 20 years today I don’t remember the image being so poor. Regards Chris
collimation is due to the position of the prism in its lodge/place? I mean if I open my binoculars and try to clean them what I risk in terms of collimation...
There is a risk you will loose collimation. If your careful and mark everything there is a good chance you will not notice any ill effect. THIS IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Thank you for your answer, and your video. The problem is that I still have to really understand what collimation is. I have a couple of vintage binoculars to clean. One day I will...?! :)
Hi How decoding and repair of Carl Zeiss 10x40 Notarem multicoated and repair balance Alaadasat? I have the moves and spins but does not change the lenses and never nearly ?? Can you help me!
I put exactly every things in correct place , i don know why ? More than 5 times i open it and fix it but still same problem . It is Zeiss binocular 10x50.
mine is a Tento 7x50, really dirty inside and similar to this one. But 1) it hasnt got a screw as 2:41 and 2) the objective part is awfully stuck, as if it was glued... I'll have to keep it dirty i guess😩
it can be tough. mine didn't have the screw either, and i had to use a strap wrench to pry the obejective off. guess, that's not unexpected for something that hasn't been unscrewed in 38 years! :)
My father had some tasco 1000m binoculars from the late 90s (1998 i think) he gave to me when i was a kid because he knocked them off a table and they had double image, Ive had them for 15 years and for some random reason i found this video today that finally showed me how to take it apart and found the adjustment screws for the prism (its external, so i just cleaned everything and put it back together again), and i was like "sure, lets give it a go" a tiny screwdriver and half a turn later, bam. spot on. perfect as far as my eyes are concerned, i can finally use them. My father was very happy to hear and use them again.
Thank you very much
Do they have a lever/arm on the right-hand side for zooming in? if so i had these as a Kid :-)
I used to service and collimate binoculars as a part of my old job. I don't miss working on them, but some of the older ones were so beautifully made that I had to admire them for the quality of their engineering.
Good thing I watched this video. I recently bought a pair of cheap binos for star gazing.. I had a real time trying to collimate them. I figured out that one of the prisms on the left front was knocked out of it's perch. I could see where it was off the 10 degrees that it was showing. I could see where the glue cracked and it had a pair of shims still in place. I removed and cleaned the prism and got it back seated in the glue and screwed it back down. I collimated them and they work very well now. I never would have known what to look for if it wasn't for this hands on guide. Merry Christmas.
Smashing video!
I won a Swift 10x50 porro binocular on fleabay, Supposedly they were working fine but collimation was so bad that I got in touch with the seller to return them, He wouldn't reply to me so I opened a case, He still didn't respond so Ebay reimbursed me, I was about to put them in the bin when I noticed a gap between one of the objective bells and the prism cover, It had been refitted by someone cross threaded!
It was really difficult to remove but I eventually unscrewed it, I did what you said by turning it anti clockwise until it clicked, About the third or fourth attempt it meshed with the threads correctly and screwed home easily- Collimation was spot on!!
The innards were very clean and a nice bright/crisp and clear image was there after!!👍😎
Brilliant. Yes a tend to always leave mine on DX. Glad you resolved it.
Well that was a result. A free pair of working binoculars. Well done!
Just found my old 1966 Technor binoculars. These did not work at all for well over 50 years. I followed your video and hey presto they are now in full working order, thanks to your video.
Thanks again
Russell
This is, to my knowledge, the best internet guide to cleaning and repairing old Japanese binoculars! Right now I'm servicing a recently aquired Zenith 7x50.
thanks for putting this video up. gave me the courage to clean a 38-year-old cheap 12x50 i got when i was 10!
I wanted to take the time to say Thankyou for putting this together.
I bought an old pair from an opportunity shop and saw that they were still aligned. For $25 AUD I thought...Meh... They are antiques. Maybe I can pay a little money and get them cleaned.
Then I thought... I wonder.... How hard it would be to clean them.
After watching your video.... I was able to successfully follow your instructions and clean the prisms and lenses.
Now I have two pairs. The original that I purchased new and the more robust antique micronar pair made in Japan.
I recommend this Video..
Cool vid. Thanks
Managed to take this old pair apart and back together.
I found that using a bright flashlight on the optics exposes all the dirt clearly on the lenses, even after you think you got em cleaned....there is still some left.
Thanks a lot for this video. I accidentaly droped my binoculars, leaving one eye completly blind but, thanks to you, i fixed them and now they work flawlessly!!!
That makes me feel good! Thank you for that uplifting comment.
Thanks for this video. I just took apart my old Sears 7x35 binoculars and they come apart just as you describe here. I am glad to get them all cleaned up and bright and clear again. I have had them since I was a kid 40+ years ago.
I have worked on
over 300 pairs of binoculars.
I clean, tune, and collimate them,
to be the best that each pair can be.
They are not all created equal.
Precise collimation is an art.
Some binoculars are defective or are such junk that they really aren't worth the time it takes to get them servicable.
But there are some older brands that were magnificently built,
and they are rugged.
Such as steel turrets, prisms are clamped, screwed AND glued into position.
The ocular lens rings are made of metal. The crane is all metal.
So is the adjustment wheel.
Casings are sealed.
Screws are loxked into place with threadlock.
And so on and so on.
Built to withstand and built to last.
That all seemed to begin to change in early 70's - 80's.
Much in the way vehicles began to be made cheap.
Its funny that Id be the first to say that Tasco made junk.
However, Tasco had some that were superb.
It was either hit or miss with their binoculars and it depended on which factory they had manufacture them and brand them as Tasco.
I have a pair that are so sharp that they sort of hurt the eyes
Many thanks for your info, my old Pentax 10x50's have been given a new lease of life now they have clean optics...even if it did take me all day!
cleaning 1 day, enjoying it for years. def worth it
I took my first pair of binos apart yesterday to address a fungus on the prisms issue. This is a pair of 7x35 11 degree with removable prism plate. I did remove the prism plates from the binocular body to better clean the prisms. Note I was not quite so foolish to remove the prisms from the prism plates. HOWEVER, upon attempting to put the prism plates back I "discovered" that the three screws that hold the prism plate down also seem to play some role in the prism plate tilting as there are grub screws next to each main screw which seem to be causing various tilts when tightening up the prism plate. And it seems that the order in which you tighten the screws to put the prism plate back affects the final tilt of the prism plate. Ok fine, so I put everything back together as best I could and then found my alignment was off. This was fixed with an eccentric ring collimation of the main lenses using stars at night. This worked but presently an interesting observation. Turning the right lens did not improve collimation at all. In fact, all if did was cause the star I was using for collimation to either disappear all together or reappear as I turned the lens. Turning the left lens did work well and allowed collimation for a single star image. However, I read somewhere that messing with the prisms for collimation would reduce the image quality. And the incident where turning the right lens caused the star to appear and disappear makes me think the light path of the prism could be really out whack. Am I understanding that wrong? Which lead to the question, how does one properly re-install a prism plate to get the optimal light path (independent of what might happen later if eccentric ring tweaking is needed). Thank you.
Hi Simon, As you suggested, there was a screw from the ipd adjustment side. I could open and clean the optics without any problem. However, now I have double vision problem. I saw in another youtube video about the adjustment screws and was able to locate them. Thank a lot for the help.
Thanks for this. I’ve got an old British. (50s?) pair of 10.5 x40 that are pretty sweet. But the rhs is filthy hazy. I’ll have to do this but I’ll do the rhs only so I know where any col faults may arise. Didn’t know about marking objective lens, over tightening causes double image. Will be aware of that. Very clear vid. Thanks.
I have a pair of binoculars which i need to clean, this video will help me to do that. just need a pencil from Ikea to mark the lenses where and how to put it back 🙂
The pencil might not be long enough!
This is the most helpful video on how to do this that I have been able to find on the internet. I'm now in the process of doing this to a pair of very nice 7x35 porro prism binoculars with a wide field of 10.1* Do you know of any more videos on servicing this type of binoculars I would very much appreciate it. Thank you!
Thanks for this video. Last night i dug out my old PRISMA 20x50s to do some stargazing with my daughter. They've been in the loft for at least two decades and have a lot of mould in the lenses. I don't think they have any real value so i'm going to follow your guide and see if i can clean them myself.
Thanks for a fascinating video Simon. Would you be so kind as to do a video of how to disassemble and clean a pair of Taylor-Hobson no2 MkIII Army binoculars? I have a pair and am a big fan of their build quality, but need to give them a clean internally as they are rather hazy and have some dust on the lenses. I also need to rotate the graticule in the right eye piece as it has slipped almost vertical. Thank you!
After watching a Buzzard circling above the house, a neighbour, yesterday, gifted me a pair of, heavy, unwanted Anchor Optical Corp 7x50 WW11 US binoculars clearly with dirty lenses and/or prisms your grrreat video has inspired me to... 'have a go!?' I do wonder if it will be plain-sailing, though?
You just saved me from sending them away to get cleaned awesome wee vid....cheers
Thank you for posting useful video, it helped me to fix a prism in my 16x50 Zenith binoculars!
ua-cam.com/channels/rKJ5aVast8tXtS-qRGL51w.html
Is there a Vol 2 to this video showing cleaning, reassembling the focus mechanism etc ?
This is much better than ASMR ! Great video, thanks.
hello Simon I must admit not bad I've been repairing binoculars and other Optical instruments going 35 years ! Everybody out there do not try to repair old binoculars from around the World War II era especially Zeiss Jena they seal them in wax to try to make them waterproof. also prisons begin to get brittle over many years crack very easily and the Precision that they used back in the thirties and forties was extraordinary. and please remember some binoculars are not meant to be taken apart by an amateur many of them even the pro has a hard time. that's why many companies that make cheap binoculars don't even try to repair them they just replace them. and on high end binoculars don't even attempt to repair them send them to a pro or the manufacturer.
otherwise Simon not bad it's a dying craft and there's not many of us left ! 😔🔬🔭
Aha...perhaps I will not attempt my to give my US WW11 Anchor Optical 7x50s a much needed general 'service!?'
Hello Simon, My dad had a real nice pair of Sears 7X35 when i was a kid. I was really amazed by them. Then when i was in the Army and deployed for the first Gulf War, i became addicted to the military Steiner's we had. So i started collecting military glass. I have several pairs of German IF 6X30's that need cleaned. Have you ever done a pair of them? It seems that the KF grease has hardened it seems like the objective caps are glued on or something. if you ever clean a pair could you post a vid? Thanks, -Steve
As you can see I to have a ridiculous collection of binoculars and know what you mean about that black tar like waterproofing.
Warm them on a radiator and use a strap wrench to get them moving.
What make are they?
Can you recommend (or do!) a good video or article on collimating these types of binoculars?
Mine appear to be similar to the ones in this video, they don't seem to have any collimation screws that I can see so many of the articles on the net which describe a process of finding the collimation screws buried under the rubber or something don't apply...
Can I use Isopropyl on coated lens surfaces? Nice work!! A good instructional video thanks for all the advice. Using gloves advice also a great idea. Sliced my thumb trying to take out the objective lenses from the front. Caught it in the little ridge! But it is somewhat difficult to clean through the screw in opening due to the grease placed on the threads. So having no grease I had to be very careful to not touch those outer threads with the cloth on the edges. Best to clean the threads firstly I assume?
Hi Simon. Fantastic video. As a result of watching it and doing some further research, I cleaned and collimated some cheap porro binoculars I bought from a charity shop and achieved a fantastic result. In fact I was so inspired that I bought some Carl Zeiss Jena 10x50 bins to service...............but I fell at the first hurdle. I can't get the focusing bridge off to get at the top lenses. I've spent hours trying to work out how to do it, but just can't figure it out. Unlike the porro binoculars, there is no cap at the bottom to allow me access to the screw; just a flat plate with a number on it. Can you or anyone else on this site help. I can't wait to get started and the frustration is driving me nuts!!
Ah Yes you won't on a German binocular Roy! Remove the IPD cover and loosed the tiny grub screw that locks the big centre screw. You will almost have to remove it. Then your back on track.
Thanks Simon...........you're a star. When I've cleaned them I may well be back in touch as I will need to collimate them and I can't see how to do this at present. On the porro bins that I services there were some tiny screws on the barrel which I adjusted. But I can't see these on the Jena's.........very confusing!! Thanks again.
They used black goo to seal the metal flanges on these 1970s metal binoculars. What was it and what to use in its place? Silicone would be a too strong bond I'm afraid.
There is a mastic type goo without silicon sold at screwdix. Almost a putty replacement
Hello Simon, I have a pair of ZOMZ Kronos BNU 7x50 Olympic issue binoculars (the same as the ones on your flickr page), and I noticed that there were a few black specks in the right ocular (maybe 2 small specks). The reason why I think they are in the ocular is because when I rotate the right eye focus, I notice the specks rotating accordingly. My question is, how can I disassemble the right ocular lens, in order to clean it from the inside? And what tools would I need?
Thank you in advance.
A prism was my solution! Very happy now. Thank you very much, simon!
this pair of binoculars are identical to a pair i bought in the mid-seventies. i still have them and they have served me well. the make of mine are PHILO. i see that IKEA are missing a pencil - lol
Great video, any advice on loosening a tighter lens
Very useful video! Love how detailed it is
Thanks Marc.
Is it possible to repair a "double image" due to the movement of prism, without optical instruments?
Драган Утржен You may be able to make it usable but not perfect. Other people might find eye strain.
Thanks, Simon. Amazing video. So, assuming I do this exactly the way you describe, am I safe cleaning a vintage pair of Zeiss binoculars (not holding you to this, just curious to know)? I read somewhere that some binoculars are gas filled etc. Thanks again.
Wont an ultrasonic cleaner help a lot with getting all the debris out of the binocular?
Greetings,
Jeff
Why didn't you clean the end, would of made sense, but gave me a great idea, shame you didn't, I'm nervous to do that part now.
Dear Simon I saw the comment of Rangeme about military glasses, I have a Dutch military Zeiss clone, brandname " Nedinsco" Venlo, 7x50. It has to be realigned and it also has that black sealing. Do you have or know a video about these types?
No sorry.
Thanks for your videos. I've damaged the prism of my Binacular. Where can I find the prisms?
A scrap binocular is your best bet
@@SoddingaboutSi Thanks for your reply. I don't have one. Is it possible to get it from somewhere else? Please advise as I'm not able to find these prisms anywhere.
Fantastic video - thank you!
If you or anyone else is able to help please I'd be most grateful - I have a very old set of almost identical looking 10 x 50 binoculars with a broken 'bridge strap' / 'EP strap' (?) - aluminium bit thingy that connects the LH eyepiece to the rest of the "ocular" (as you referred to it at the end).
I'm wondering if there is anywhere I might buy a replacement (and cheaply because the binoculars aren't worth much as it is)? Also the correct name of the part? Thank you in advance :-)
Failing that I'll have a crack at some sort of repair. I did see a post and photos on cloudynights forum from someone who did just that. He referred to the part as an 'EP bridge' and someone else I emailed referred to it as a 'bridge strap' but from googling I can't tell if either one is the correct term.
Interesting video Simon,thanks for showing it.Will come in usefull.
Simon, you have an impressive collection I noticed elsewhere. I'd like to present an issue I'm dealing with. My focus is stuck, so much so, the focus knob sheared off of the brass (?) cerrated axle in the centre of the bridge. Said axle is totally stuck. Any tips on getting it unstuck? The grease has turned to a right tar (I'm hoping to 3d print a new focusing knob)
What are they?
@@SoddingaboutSiIt's an old Companion 15x65. I could remove the helical axle, like you mention in this video. But it seems the brass axle is stuck in the aluminium tube.
Update: it was threaded. To remove the objective bells: were held in place by thread and locked by 2 locking screws for each bell hidden beneath more black tar. (Not collimation screws).
Hi. Nice video. thanks.
I´ve got the similar binoculars but I don´t Know how is the order of its lenses. I disarmed it for cleaning. Thanks!!!!
Why did they go for the big fat housing while the prisms take up much less space?
Looks?
Light path mainly. If the internals were any smaller the ight would clip the casing.
Thanks for detailed process of cleaning the prisms. I was afraid of removing the prism clip, so I cleaned in place. But the result was not very good.
You will need to clean the hypotenuse as that's the entrance and exit of the light. That will give you a good contrast improvement.
Thanks, Mr. Simon! I will do it when I open it next time.
Hi simon , i have done same as you do here i clean every thing then when finished now its double vision , do you know whats wrong with it ? Thanks pal
I replaced the prisms in a Pilot 7x50 monocular with new prisms with the exact same dimensions, but now it will not focus. what is my problem?
hi simon, we have almost the same binos. My problem is that they need collimitation and i cant find any screws like the newer binoculars to fix them. After the service you did how did you collimitated them?
ok yes you were right...i fixed them! thank you for your help :)
Nice vid,
Hello i am Taufan, i have a nippon kogaku 7x50 japan, but I find it difficult to open it, do you have a tutorial to open it? Thx
Hello ! query ... do you have any idea what paint or material is used to repair the chipped paint of the carl zeiss of the 20s, 40s ... it is like a hard textured paint. thank you very much?
I usef to use a gloss model paint then just before it was totally dry dab it repeatedly with a cotton rag to get the matt effect. Worked well after practice. Matt was too dull.
@@SoddingaboutSi great, many thanks! Do you remember the name of the painting? for evri if there is something similar in my country
Humbrol I think.
@@SoddingaboutSi tnks very much!
Hello! I picked up an Auriol Zoom binoculars today. I can't see through the lens very well. Probably why the owner didn't want them. They are quite clean. Should I use your method to clean them? It would be a shame to throw them away in my opinion. Thank you.
Try it Brian. Have a look through binocular wrong way and see if both sides look the same.
Hi simon! My bushnell 10x50 whe i see a object with both eyes i see two objects. How do i repair or adjust this. Thanks for advanced!
Sorry just seen your comment. They need collimating , with this model best done by a pro.
And seen that there is a tool to remove the tubes that hold the eyepieces when they are too hard to do it with their hand, a type key that wraps the eyepiece with a rubber ribbon. What's your name? I need it so I can disarm some carl zeiss from about 100 years ago.
I need a pair of 20/50 that need a prism fixed. What do I do? Send them out? Who fixes binoculars
Simon. Thks for Sharing! I have a celestron 20x50 that recently appears a deffect ... it seems like an additional light entrance close of pupil diameter. What could be the problem?. Any advice guys is very welcome. Thanks in advance!
Another very interesting vid. I thought I would do my old CZ Jena Jenoptems, but I fell at the first hurdle.... I can't get the end cap off to undo the screw for the focussing bridge. This is the button with the serial no. It looks like it is pressed in. How can I remove it?
TIA
I Inherited a pair of nikmis 8X 30 binoculars. The right eye is blurry. Kindly advice what to do I have searched everywhere and couldnt find anything. Guess they dont make it anymore
I've got a Pentax 12x50 model 565. But I've never succeeded in opening the cap for accessing the center screw. Also I've tried to open the front lens but it can't be turned. Don't know how.
Hi Simon,
I am needing to work on a few pairs of Bausch and Lomb Zephyr binoculars from the mid/late 1950's made in Rochester, NY, Is this something I can reasonably do myself, I have good mechanical skills, but don't know the first thing about binoculars, they need cleaned as they have fungus and a snowflake in one and the other is just age and the normal accumulation of dust, I am unsure on how they are collimated and don't want to risk destroying a pair of binoculars with history and class if its something I'd better leave to a professional however I love learning new things and have always been a tinkerer preferring to fix things myself so I know they're done right.
Just a quick tip for all of you. Sharpen your pencil to a fine point and only mark once! I know this sounds very obvious and that is because it is. If you have a blunt pencil (instrument) and you are making your mark three or four times you might aswell not do it at all and just eyeball everything. Sharp pencil, mark Once! Get it, got it, good!
See it, say it, sorted! Good tip.
Thanks !,saved old heavy Russian binocular.
Hello, i have 8×30 БПЦ4 Russian binoculars and i have some fog on both lenses, i tried putting silica gel and it didn't work, if you could help me on how to open them and clean the lens. Thanks! :)
Excellent video thanks and regards from Costa Rica
Hi Simon,
The video is great. I am trying to clean fungus in my Bresser Cobra, 7x50 bino. I removed the cap as you suggested. But there is no screw inside. Is this different in the case of Bresser Corbra?
I have a couple pairs of Swift Audubon 8.5x44 binoculars that need quite a bit of restoration work (one of them is out of alignment, the other was left out in the rain and is permanently foggy). Do you recommend against me trying to service them myself? Can you recommend a place to get them serviced. I’m in the US. Thanks!!!
There are too good to risk repairing yourself. I'm in the UK so no idea of a good service centre. You may find a collimation and clean in not financially viable.
If the prisms are back in exactly the correct position, then a crossed thread on the objectives. What binocular is it?
Try putting the prism in at an angle first. Gently wiggle it about. Be sure its in the correct was around to.
Thank you very much for uploading! It was very helpful!
Thank you
Cheers, i just won an Ebay bid for 10 pairs of binoculars for 17 pounds..all in good condition,, just need to be cleaned,
I paid 20 bucks on marketplace for two of them. Unfortunatly 1 of them has a missing lens-part of the tube. And the other one does not focus with the wheel.
Hello Simon your videi was helpful as my binoculars were in need of a clean. Suddenly just as you were putting the binoculars together the video came to an end. Help. I need to know how to correctly fit the lens adjusting mechanism. How can I find the re-assembly video?
Frank Gilling The video shows how to reassemble the binoculars? Which part are you unsure of?
Hello Simon thanks for getting back to me. The video is 16.30 minutes long. I have watched all of it. Just as you pick up the adjusting mechanism at 16.29 minutes, it ends. The next part I really really need to see so I can put my Saturn binoculars back together again. At the moment they are like Humpty Dumpty. I have cleaned lenses and prisms etc but the double worm screws are my problem. There must be a simple technique.
+Frank Gilling What double worm screws are you referring to? Are they indervidual eye focus?
Thanks Simon. I thought a photo might be helpful but I cannot upload for you. My Saturn focus adjusting mechanism looks jut like your Borro. I am happ to send a photo by email. Also if there is some way I can the rest of the video that would help.
any repair tips if binocs are 'waterproof'?
Very thanks, i have a Selsi 7x50 made in Japan (1961) very similar¡¡
I have the same one but I can't refix it. so im afraid to opne it for cleaning
Thanks for disassembling your binoculars. I wonder if you're still on youtube? because I would need a tip, Got a pair of vintage binoculars, of the brand zenith7x50 triple tested field 71 *. but I can not displace the angle so they fit my eyes, Well how do I do. have tried with m 56 but do not want to open them. can you help? Thank you for your response.PP Sweden
Are you getting a double image?
@@SoddingaboutSi no sir i can't bend the binoculars so i fit my eyes the are stockt, do y understand ??.
Are you still interest to help???
I don't really understand the problem. Are you saying you can't adjust the binoculars span ?
@@SoddingaboutSi yes that correct.
I have some dirt on inside of my 70'S binoculars, and i can't work out how it can happen seeing as how they're totally sealed in factory? Also is it not the case that they're vacuum sealed at factory, or is that only the high end bins?
If they are a poro design like these they are not sealed. Most likely fungus. Have they got damp? What make model?
@@SoddingaboutSi They are same design, prinz (dixons) circa.1976 , always been very well cared for, kept in original case always, with original silica pouch.
Unfortunately they are still prone to getting damp. A strip and clean is the only way.
@@SoddingaboutSi Ok thanks, i will do that.
I have a steiner military 15x80c with a blurry and moldy lens condition. does anyone know where to fix it
muy interesante, i have a super zenith 20x50 too it´s a amasing binocular,
Efrainno Salvy requiero reparación de lentes super zenith 20x60
Hi Mark
I just bought a Swift Audubon mk2 8.5x44 binocular that is beautifully bright and clear but as soon as I arrived home and tried them again I found that something is jamming the focus mechanism, I've been advised to remove the focus shaft as there may be some crud in the threads, I'm a bit loathe to take them apart as the last set I stripped ended up in the bin!! 😲
It didn't do it when I was trying the bins!!
Would you say this is a job an amateur could accomplish?, Cheers 👍🙂
Nice binocular. Check the screw that i undo at the back of the binocular at 1:28 hasn't fallen out.
@@SoddingaboutSi , I checked that as soon as I watched your excellent video!! (I have about five binoculars that are dirty inside to have a play with!, Some are out of collimation though!!)
@@aflatminor The Audubon is a nice good quality binocular. I would consider getting it serviced by a pro. This video was freally or the budget sub 50 quid .
@@SoddingaboutSi, Could you recommend someone to service them? I have no idea of anyone that does this type of work!! Many thanks for the the replies 👍😎
I've been trying to work on a pair of 14yr old Hanimex 8x30 binoculars. The problem is that I can't remove the focus bridge, because once I remove the cap at the objective end there's no screw inside the shaft, just some gluey stuff. It's completely flush. So I only got to clean the objective prisms. Also the right adjustable eyepiece unscrews all the way off, and I don't know if that's normal or I broke it.
Faisal Emran The eye piece should not remove,that ain't normal.
Is the focus system a wheel like this binocular or a focus paddle?
oh no, i wonder if it could be fixed then, if it's broken. It's a focus wheel. And thanks for the fast reply!
Faisal Emran not sure about the eye focus without seeing it. Does the ipd scale unscrew? That's the cap at the eye end.
Simon Spiers nope it doesn't. there's a tiny screw just adjacent to it, but removing it doesn't do anything.
Hi, I've got an old binocular, too but the part at 02:05 is lost (i dont know the name of it) could you explain what its is, what kind of lens, that's a single len or some?
Focusing arm,?
Great video. Good Training. Thanks
I have an old 70's to early 80's Carl Zeiss monocular . I want to clean internally before selling them on Ebay . Are their any other steps before doing a high shelf optic ? Such as coatings or nitrogen etc ? Thank You and God Bless
timothy thomas What model is it? An early Jenoptem is coated but without nitrogen.
The monocular is 8x30 B 539160 .I copied a link to a similar set on Ebay the serial number is slightly earlier however . God Blessed me with this find . As I was leaving the thrift store . I cought out of my periphery an optic . I asked the clerk to take out of case as I couldn't see the Brand as they sat . As well even if they had been bushnell I would have picked up for personal use . Upon seeing the brand I was as you can imagine glad . Not to mention upon turning them over and seeing the price tag at 50 cents . I couldn't get the change out of my pocket fast enough . I am somewhat familiar with optics and lenses to a point . However if you could give me an idea of the best course of action . I would be forever in your debt Thank You for the consideration . God Bless
your video is very useful, it helped me with a celestron uplclose.
thanks from jujuy, argentina
Hi Simon I have some old binoculars that my grandfather gave me. I don’t think they are particularly old probably 1970s or have any monetary value. I was looking at them for the first time in many years and they look milky or foggy when viewing. I assume this is a internal problem can they be repaired ? Regards Chris
AllTheGearNoIdea They can. Are they a poro design like these?
What make are they?
Simon Spiers They look very similar. I will have to go and find them, just packed them away as I did not have the heart to bin them even though the view was rubbish.
Simon Spiers just found them and they look pretty cheap and crusty, Prinz 16x50 made in Hong Kong. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRINZ-Binoculars-16-x-50-With-Strap-and-Case-/302446570818 looks same as this ebay listing. I think I must have look through them for the first time in 20 years today I don’t remember the image being so poor. Regards Chris
They are cheap bins. I might be able to clean them or supply you with a better alternative?
How to dismantle the eye piece
Thank you for doing this video!
+Curtis Owens You welcome Curtis
Good informative video. I would use a larger work surface.
Hi, I always nick a few Ikea pencils, really handy👍🏻
Better than the furniture!
collimation is due to the position of the prism in its lodge/place? I mean if I open my binoculars and try to clean them what I risk in terms of collimation...
There is a risk you will loose collimation. If your careful and mark everything there is a good chance you will not notice any ill effect. THIS IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Thank you for your answer, and your video. The problem is that I still have to really understand what collimation is. I have a couple of vintage binoculars to clean. One day I will...?! :)
+Marc C Yes there is a risk. If your binoculars are valuable get them serviced by a professional.
If you mess up the left eye and right eye aim at different places. So you cannot see a clear binocular image.
Hi
How decoding and repair of Carl Zeiss 10x40 Notarem multicoated and repair balance Alaadasat? I have the moves and spins but does not change the lenses and never nearly ?? Can you help me!
I imagine with such a valuable pair it might be good idea to take to a professional repair place
Fascinating!
Wonderful video. Very informative.
Tanks very mutch
Which is a liquid to clean the optics?
+Драган Утржен Just a window cleaning fluid from the shop. Works best.
I have those exact binoculars
I put exactly every things in correct place , i don know why ? More than 5 times i open it and fix it but still same problem . It is Zeiss binocular 10x50.
I can’t uncrew the barrels, it’s likt 18 tons or resistance there I almost broke my wrist 😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
mine is a Tento 7x50, really dirty inside and similar to this one. But 1) it hasnt got a screw as 2:41 and 2) the objective part is awfully stuck, as if it was glued... I'll have to keep it dirty i guess😩
it can be tough. mine didn't have the screw either, and i had to use a strap wrench to pry the obejective off. guess, that's not unexpected for something that hasn't been unscrewed in 38 years! :)