Still learning here, with imitation gold leaf do you handle the same as imitation silver and copper? With drying times of the size? Also how do you know when the quick size oil base is starting to go bad? Seems like the size I have is getting tacky really fast, like 15-20 min. I know everything has an effect on the drying. Also when spreading the size if you spread too much but let it get to the tacky stage will that matter? Thank you
24k gold leaf is extremely thin (about 0.1-0.2 microns thick) and pure, making it very fragile. It can tear easily if mishandled. Imitation gold leaf, although also thin, is often slightly thicker and made from less pure metals, which can provide a bit more durability. What gilders typically do to get a baseline is layout various swatches of whatever size you're using and test over time which swatch works the best. For instance, layout 5 swatches with the same brush same thickness and wait for given amount of time and test for tackiness (like in my video) before gilding. Then wait 5 minutes and gild the next swatch. Wait another 5 and gild the next, etc. You can start earlier or later and increase the time between. Much of how the size you're using works depends on environment. That's why experience with the squeal helps. As far as shelf life, without knowing what size you're using, the best I can do is ask GROK: Gold size, typically used in gilding to make gold leaf adhere to surfaces, does have a shelf life, but it does not necessarily have an expiration date in the traditional sense where it becomes unusable after a specific date. Here's how it generally works: Shelf Life: The shelf life of gold size can vary depending on its composition, storage conditions, and whether it's water-based or solvent-based. Water-based gold size usually has a shorter shelf life compared to solvent-based ones. Water-based Gold Size: This type typically lasts from 6 months to a year when unopened, but once opened, it should ideally be used within 3-6 months. Exposure to air can lead to bacterial growth or drying out, affecting its adhesive properties. Solvent-based Gold Size: These can last longer, often up to 2-3 years if stored properly, due to the preservatives in the solvents. Even after opening, they can remain usable for a significant period, but their tackiness might decrease over time. Storage: Proper storage is crucial for extending the shelf life: Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Keep the container tightly sealed when not in use to prevent drying out or contamination. Avoid extreme temperatures which can cause the size to either dry out or become too runny. Signs of Degradation: If the size has changed in consistency (too thick or watery), color, or smell, it might not adhere well or could introduce contaminants to your work. A loss of tackiness or stickiness is a common sign that the gold size is past its effective life. Usage After Expiration: Even if there's no explicit expiration date, if you notice any of the above signs, it's advisable to get new gold size rather than risk poor adhesion or contamination of your gilding work. However, if the gold size appears and performs fine, it can still be used past the theoretical shelf life, though with caution. When applying size, avoid going over your work more than once. It can be thinned with mineral spirits, but the more you work with it, the greater the chances of gloppy textures. Hope that helps.
I came up with the idea to silver leaf old car signal reflectors since silver has the most reflective value. Any suggestions to prep metal reflectors, primer, then type of sizing & clear coat. My fear is clear coat will reduce optical reflectivity value....
i'm just watching a bunch of videos trying to get a good handle on this process. one oldtimer i saw said he doesn't use cotton anymore, instead he uses like one of those make-up powder applicator pad things. have you ever tried that for a comparison?
@@IDCrisisDesign_dot_com what he used replaces the cotton, it's like a flat soft pad. i know nothing about make-up so that's the best i can describe it, lol. i guess just use whatever works and someone is comfortable with....
By the time you get into those finer grits, it’s a personal preference. I’m using 4000 because the foam disk pads adds the necessary cushion when wrapping the tool in velvet for turning real gold. Some hand turning tools are using sand PAPER, not sanding PADS. I’ve seen 3k all the way to 5 tho. It’s whatever you’re cozy with.
Thank you for showing how to do this as I’ve been trying to decide on real gold, gold leaf or imitation. However, I do not understand why you would make those marks with the drill because it looks like bowties everywhere and it is distracting to me. Am I missing something? (No offense intended) can’t one just buff so all the gold leaf surface looks the same?
That is called _Engine turning_ or _Jeweling_ it is a design formed from overlapping circular abrasions. The Spirit of St. Lous had it done to the entire nose. It's used because it is decorative and beautiful. He never does show it from different angles to really show the effect. You could simply buff or burnish it plain but if you check out engine turning you may see why it is used so much.
I've had great service from these three. If I'm looking for composite (variegated or aluminum) material you can find some in craft stores or on amazon.
@@IDCrisisDesign_dot_com Another good source for variegated leaf is kamapigments.com in Canada. They have some very different variegated leaf from Italy.
@@melodycoronel2593 600 grit but you can go as fine as 1000 if you're re-clearing. Again, depending on the project, you don't have sand the surface first. You can gild a polished surface and brush clear over the gold. I've seen fire engines done this way but it's not as durable.
Hopefully, it was the glare that prevented you from seeing the detail. I had a friend who was a sign painter - he used #2 pencils with intact, unused erasers. He could place the spins so precisely and evenly that he was like a machine!
Good job on the tool for better informality and precision. I think it is a great idea. Good Job Dave.
Still learning here, with imitation gold leaf do you handle the same as imitation silver and copper? With drying times of the size? Also how do you know when the quick size oil base is starting to go bad? Seems like the size I have is getting tacky really fast, like 15-20 min. I know everything has an effect on the drying. Also when spreading the size if you spread too much but let it get to the tacky stage will that matter? Thank you
24k gold leaf is extremely thin (about 0.1-0.2 microns thick) and pure, making it very fragile. It can tear easily if mishandled. Imitation gold leaf, although also thin, is often slightly thicker and made from less pure metals, which can provide a bit more durability.
What gilders typically do to get a baseline is layout various swatches of whatever size you're using and test over time which swatch works the best. For instance, layout 5 swatches with the same brush same thickness and wait for given amount of time and test for tackiness (like in my video) before gilding. Then wait 5 minutes and gild the next swatch. Wait another 5 and gild the next, etc. You can start earlier or later and increase the time between.
Much of how the size you're using works depends on environment. That's why experience with the squeal helps. As far as shelf life, without knowing what size you're using, the best I can do is ask GROK:
Gold size, typically used in gilding to make gold leaf adhere to surfaces, does have a shelf life, but it does not necessarily have an expiration date in the traditional sense where it becomes unusable after a specific date. Here's how it generally works:
Shelf Life: The shelf life of gold size can vary depending on its composition, storage conditions, and whether it's water-based or solvent-based. Water-based gold size usually has a shorter shelf life compared to solvent-based ones.
Water-based Gold Size: This type typically lasts from 6 months to a year when unopened, but once opened, it should ideally be used within 3-6 months. Exposure to air can lead to bacterial growth or drying out, affecting its adhesive properties.
Solvent-based Gold Size: These can last longer, often up to 2-3 years if stored properly, due to the preservatives in the solvents. Even after opening, they can remain usable for a significant period, but their tackiness might decrease over time.
Storage: Proper storage is crucial for extending the shelf life:
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
Keep the container tightly sealed when not in use to prevent drying out or contamination.
Avoid extreme temperatures which can cause the size to either dry out or become too runny.
Signs of Degradation:
If the size has changed in consistency (too thick or watery), color, or smell, it might not adhere well or could introduce contaminants to your work.
A loss of tackiness or stickiness is a common sign that the gold size is past its effective life.
Usage After Expiration: Even if there's no explicit expiration date, if you notice any of the above signs, it's advisable to get new gold size rather than risk poor adhesion or contamination of your gilding work. However, if the gold size appears and performs fine, it can still be used past the theoretical shelf life, though with caution.
When applying size, avoid going over your work more than once. It can be thinned with mineral spirits, but the more you work with it, the greater the chances of gloppy textures.
Hope that helps.
thank you this video was very informative really enjoyed it
Nice! Thanks 😊👍
Thank you for sharing.
Nicely done
I came up with the idea to silver leaf old car signal reflectors since silver has the most reflective value. Any suggestions to prep metal reflectors, primer, then type of sizing & clear coat. My fear is clear coat will reduce optical reflectivity value....
This video has been a great help thank you!
What kind of glue do you use for the leafing?
Dux fast dry gold size, but I have used 1shot and Luco. I tend to like 1shot.
Ok thank you
What is the purpose of the spiner thing. I think it looks better as is. No sooner effect
It’s a traditional look.
Does the glue matter i got one from Amazon and i cant get a good spin it tears right thru
Jerry Hamlin, like your channel
Thx! Just sent your pads out.
@@IDCrisisDesign_dot_com I was thinking about making the piece the pads go on what the price of one, thank you
@@fuddwacker4803 122.00 plus tax shipping. idcrisisdesign.com/spinster/
Where 'll I get gold leaf in Australia
@@balachandrand5912 try your hobby or craft store
What drill do you use ? Thanks
It’s a craftsman power screwdriver. Any drill motor or automatic screw driver will work. You can also just twist them by hand.
i'm just watching a bunch of videos trying to get a good handle on this process. one oldtimer i saw said he doesn't use cotton anymore, instead he uses like one of those make-up powder applicator pad things. have you ever tried that for a comparison?
I use a combo. The makeup brush takes off the majority. The organic cotton after is more exact. Shows you the holidays, etc.
@@IDCrisisDesign_dot_com what he used replaces the cotton, it's like a flat soft pad. i know nothing about make-up so that's the best i can describe it, lol. i guess just use whatever works and someone is comfortable with....
Applicator sponge. I’ll try it out.
So basically you're "jeweling" foil the same as you would a rifle bolt.
Yes just on more delicate material.
Does it matter the make of the sand paper? Just use 3000 or 4000 grit? A few videos are saying one type.
By the time you get into those finer grits, it’s a personal preference. I’m using 4000 because the foam disk pads adds the necessary cushion when wrapping the tool in velvet for turning real gold. Some hand turning tools are using sand PAPER, not sanding PADS. I’ve seen 3k all the way to 5 tho. It’s whatever you’re cozy with.
I have a question where can get this kit ?
www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/M5FRBWH9UTRXW
Apakah bisa diterapkan di dial jam tangan bro..?
it seems like the size is staying tacky and my leaf is twisting off when I try and turn it, any idea what I'm doing wrong?
What kind of size, and how long are you waiting for the size to dry?
Thank you for showing how to do this as I’ve been trying to decide on real gold, gold leaf or imitation. However, I do not understand why you would make those marks with the drill because it looks like bowties everywhere and it is distracting to me. Am I missing something? (No offense intended) can’t one just buff so all the gold leaf surface looks the same?
That is called _Engine turning_ or _Jeweling_ it is a design formed from overlapping circular abrasions.
The Spirit of St. Lous had it done to the entire nose.
It's used because it is decorative and beautiful. He never does show it from different angles to really show the effect.
You could simply buff or burnish it plain but if you check out engine turning you may see why it is used so much.
@@dave_ecclectic thank you
The sand thing looks cool but also looks too industrial for me.
I never see the leaf people are using. I am finding out the hard way not all leaf is made to spin on. .
wbgoldleaf.com/
www.goldenleafproducts.com/
Do you ship to the UK?
Thought I replied to this yesterday. Yes I can.
Do you ship to the uk
Yes.
Where do you get your gold sheets?
www.wbgoldleaf.com/
www.goldenleafproducts.com/
www.lagoldleafus.com/
I've had great service from these three. If I'm looking for composite (variegated or aluminum) material you can find some in craft stores or on amazon.
@@IDCrisisDesign_dot_com Another good source for variegated leaf is kamapigments.com in Canada. They have some very different variegated leaf from Italy.
Muito top valeu apenas conferir. ...🇧🇷
being straight overhead all the time your hand is blocking the spinning process
See if this earlier video helps.
ua-cam.com/video/G9-94EKt1Qs/v-deo.html
Panel was sanded
With what grit did you sand it with?
@@melodycoronel2593 600 grit but you can go as fine as 1000 if you're re-clearing. Again, depending on the project, you don't have sand the surface first. You can gild a polished surface and brush clear over the gold. I've seen fire engines done this way but it's not as durable.
Why did use a sander please. Looks ruined to me
Hopefully, it was the glare that prevented you from seeing the detail. I had a friend who was a sign painter - he used #2 pencils with intact, unused erasers. He could place the spins so precisely and evenly that he was like a machine!
Ml
T thing with the sander is so boring
Too long please