Hey Eric the air pump solenoid is a common issue, the pump will only run during cold start up. As you figured out the solenoid is located on the back of the intake manifold, they can cause an intermittent failure. There are no bulletins and all 3 solenoids on the back will be the same part number. If you have small enough hands you can change it without intake removal otherwise the upper plenum needs to be removed. When changing it double check the connector as the wiring will corrode at the back of the connector even though the pins look good. Your hard starting issue can be due to a lack of compression. Rotary's generate more compression the faster you crank them so a weak battery will easily flood the engine. Avoid starting a cold rotary and shutting it off before it warms up as flooding will occur. If you are going to shut it off before it's warm rev the engine to 3-4000 rpm while shutting it off, this will purge the rotor housings of excess fuel. A hard start on hot engine is a clear cut indicator of low compression. I've been a Mazda Master Tech for over 15 years and spend a good chunk of my summers de-flooding RX-8 motors!
Very true for the majority or RX-8's which are Series I. None of these are usual problems with the Series II (2009+) as long as the engine has never run out of oil.
I honestly think this is what is wrong with my 2004 mazda rx8. I just got it. It has 62000 miles. Runs good on a cold start, but when driving I loose power, and regain it slightly when pushing the pedal down a further than usual.
@@She1lby how do you know if its on? I'm trying to diagnose my RX8 too since it will stall randomly and I'm wondering if it could be due to lack of airflow. I already replaced my Barometric sensor as I was told this can be one of the causes of stalling. It only ever happens when I put it into neutral whether that be from rolling, or even if I'm holding still and take it out of gear. Not sure why
I had a '72 RX-2 Mazda that I got from my Dad. That was absolutely THE SMOOTHEST engine I ever had!! It had a 4 speed manual..... one time I got on the freeway and turned up the cassette (yeah I'm dating myself LOL) listening to Elton John and John&Yoko in 3rd at 80mph. Never noticed I was tacked out. After about 15 miles I noticed it.
Exactly what i was going to say. I had a buddy in the 70's that let me drive his RX3. I loved it! A powerhouse of an engine, but only got about 17 MPG, and it seemed like every time we went somewhere, we were either buying oil or putting oil into it.
Eric your videos have become part of my daily routine. Wake up, make coffee, let dogs out, turn on the Firestick, then watch you wrestle with rust or pesky wires!!! Thanks so much for sharing your life with us. Please stay safe and healthy and maybe I can get back to work soon.
@@SF-tb4kb Firmware UPDATES, however, do make sense - to your point. However, just reflashing the same image over and over again is pointless. As someone who does this for a living, flashing it "twice" doesn't do anything. The image is either good or it's not, and if it's not good, the device will reject the firmware in the first place. Ultimately people confuse *SETTINGS* with *FIRMWARE*. They are two different things, and more often than not a reset to factory settings is what's warranted, not reflashing the same firmware over and over again. That's pointless.
Eric, Love the videos. You diagnosed it but you did not state what you are going to replace, and show us how to replace it. That is why we like the wheel bearing, brake and ball joint replacement videos so much. We get to watch you work and see you problem solve. Thanks for instruction.
I used to work on a lot of RX8s but I don't even see them on the roads anymore. I guess they all blew up. By far the most common issue I saw with these was either stalling when hot or no start, sometimes for the same reason. The stalling when hot was usually when the apex seals fail and the engine won't make enough compression to maintain a hot idle, so they'll run OK cold, start to lose power as they get hot until they eventually stall and won't restart. The cold no starts are usually operator error causing the engine to flood. Mazda had a tsb for this suggesting cleaning or replacing the spark plugs and installing a larger battery and uprated starter. Of course, that was a bandaid at best. The automatics were a pain to get started again, I'd usually grab the most skookum battery charger the shop had, set it to full battery fryer, disconnect the crank sensor and crank for a while, then reconnect and try again. Sometimes I'd put a little oil in the vacuum ports in the Manifold. For the manuals, I'd grab one of the tow truck drivers, have them hook up their truck to the car and drag it around the yard for a while in gear. Dragging it in gear spins the engine up to mucn higher rpm than the starter could do and usually got them started in short order. I'd always unplug the air pump for either procedure though, because flooded engines flood the cat with fuel too. The last thing it needs is to be soaked with fuel, blasted with heat and blown with fresh air.
We have this car! Can't believe SMA got one in the shop. Hope you warmed it up before shutting it off, though, because there is nothing like trying to get it running again after the residual gas washes away the oil leaving absolutely zero compression! Just makes a pleasant whirring sound.
My grandfather helped develop the Wankel engine felix wankel was his friend both were from germany ..my Grandfather was a master machinist..he eventually moved into working for the New York Times ,,,,, a Master machinist working on huge printing presses ... My two uncles ended up working as master machines for the times doing the same thing as my grandfather ... I’ve been to the Times two times in my life when they took me to work.. Great memories.. also back in 95 i had a 1988 rx7 black , tinted black,chrome wheels was my baby .. killer audio system.. Used to cruise north New Jersey with that..Got tired of it . cleaning it all the time ,,waxing it all the time,, sold it in 1997 for 2,500 90,000 miles on it.. then i got a beater car not one care in the world ... but got me around,,,, ... I still have the two subwoofers from the mazda, I used in the back.. Which need to be rebuilt
Thanks for keeping on in tough times. After years of working on computerized cars {bought my first OTC scan tool in 1986}, when a customer asks how a computer in a car works, I simply reply FM . After a odd look and the usual "What"s FM?" I reply "FRICKING MAGIC" !!! That"s as good as man with a clip board.Thanks again Eric. '
Hey Eric, My 08 Tundra did pretty much the same thing a while back. It was raining out and my truck popped the money light and the traction light. I don't know if it was the rain maybe getting in there somehow I don't know. Also I think my truck went into limp mode. Anyway, I drove it to a store and back and then checked for codes. The code that it had was the drivers side bank Secondary Air Pump. I cleared the codes and I haven't had any problems since. In fact, it was the first engine light I've seen since I got the truck and I've had it for about 5 years. Just some info I had to share. Love the videos and Y'all stay safe.
"Oddly enough, when we first looked at it, it worked. But the more you play with it, it stops working. That is just the way life is folks" Eric O. 2020
A true professional always makes the job look easy. Clear thinking again from Eric. You put college professors to shame - Looks pretty chilly outside- 22C here in Spain - Great video.
Eric, I look after an RX-8 in Australia and it had this exact issue a few months ago. The solenoid at the back of the engine was the issue. Replaced it and it’s been sweet since :)
I'm impressed, Eric figured it our before the snow melted on the window , I would have had it in the garage at home and it would have started to rust . :)
Having been pretty deep into rx8’s I’ve noticed that the solenoid valves on the back of the intake are prone to intermittent failure. This also includes the ssv variable geometry intake system which is in the same location. These solenoid valves are actually sourced from Mitsubishi and imo are not the greatest quality. Also, the A.I.R. valve that you previously thought was stuck is a common issue due to carbon. Taking off the two 10mm bolts and removing the valve will expose it and make it easier to clean.
Hey Eric, hope you and your family is doing well. Not an easy one to start out on. Battery dead, but still get a code. Charge the battery, still have code, start doing systemic checks. Hum! Everything works! Hum?!? Switching thru the computer, all of a sudden it quit. Oh there is your problem lady!!! LOL!!! Nice work Eric....
Hey, that was actually helpful and fun to watch. I just took my series 2 RX8 to get smogged and failed for the first time. We checked the codes and I found out my car has the P0410 CEL code for the air pump. I'm hoping i don't need to replace it, Mazda wants $500 and I'm pressed for cash haha!
It failed right in front of you and with the hood up. I would call that great luck. Watching you do what they ask me not to do for the moment is like an ice cream cone.. Stay well!
Secondary AIR injection, an engineering marvel! The only time I had a check engine light come on was when the valves went Kaput. I tried cleaning with brake cleaner to get the one way valve working, worked for a minute then they both quit. 2000 GMC Yukon with the big 5.3. Replaced both valves, good to go. Those pumps sound like a hair dryer. I hated intermittent broken stuff! At least it stayed broken so you can diagnose. Don't know if you got the email of your daughter on the Pontiac G6 spring replacement, about 4 years ago. Catching up to old Vidjeo's!
good video, as always! My neighbor has the same car and the same code, but his air motor isn't working - open circuit. I think they are needed in these cars because they are SUPER rich when they start up, need that oxygen to oxidize the HCs into H2O and CO2
Hey I just put a rebuilt rotary in my boys 09 rx8 two weeks ago. He's still breaking it in. He's up to 500 miles. Already changed the the oil and checked compression. All good so far. These things don't use the usual compression testing method, they got their own device to test with.
It still is an amazing invention by Mr. Felix Wankel and Mazda solved the problem of the compression/oilscraper seals pretty good. This engine is further known as a "stationairy" one, See how smooth it runs. Love it.
I imagine that there is a current sense resistor in line in the ecu, and the voltage drop across it is monitored. But that valve was taking the micky lol. Love the whiteboard diagrams :-D
Thanks Eric O for the videos you send our way. I automatically hit like at the beginning, never disappointed. I wonder why the people, probably the same ones hit the dislike. I have never used a dislike on anyone's channel, for I figure if I don't like it , I have the choice to go to another. But hey, I guess each time one of the haters do that, you get another view!
Anyone else get happy when you get a notification of a new video? Class is now in session. Stay safe O family and God Bless. IMO, best channel on You Tube, always a learning experience.
Thanks for posting these videos. It’s good to see you each and every time. Some of us are quarantined at home, and it’s good to see you and hear your great sense of humor while showing us your gifted approach to troubleshooting problems. It’s great to be looking over your shoulder. And thanks for the free Cokes (not a sponsor) and chips while we watch! 😂😂 Take care and be safe. Great video!!
Nice Diag! Sure is nice when the (intermittent) failing solenoid FINALLY FAILS! When that happened to me and the component or wire finally had shown itself, I'd yell out, "I gotcha!" Replace/repair the valve so all will be well in Mazda Land again!
@@watsisbuttndo829 Yes, they are very inexpensive for an excellent-handling sports car. Just make sure you get the Series II (2009-2011) and NOT the Series I (2004-2008) which had more problems than a porcupine with a skin rash.
All the classic Japanese sports cars are appreciating so much in Aus right now, I had the opportunity to buy an imported R32 GTR back in 2006 for around $18,000 but didn't because it would have stretched my finances a little too far, now the cheapest are around the $50,000 mark. Instead I bought a 1990 Rx-7 Turbo for $11,000 they've gone up too but not by anywhere near as much.
I had a problem with the secondary air solenoid on my 2007 Trailblazer. About every 3 weeks on average the money light would come on and then go back out after a few days. Code was for cat warm up inefficiency. I did a little research which led me to the solenoid valve possibly sticking intermittently. The code would then self clear after 3 successful cold starts. With nothing to risk I tried an Ivan solution; disconnected the solenoid's air feed hose and shot WD40 into the valve. It has been fine for almost 2 years now. No parts required!
Good to see you ,how’s everyone,hopefully will can all enjoy your videos at the end of all this,keep safe everyone,thanks for video.ps I’ve never worked on a rx8 come to that a rotary at all,anyway 😊.
Had a similar problem with my 98 Z3, the air valve stuck open and exhaust gas backed up into the pump until it rusted solid. Fortunately there is a delete kit available for this. Once installed, no more check engine light.
Great and easy way to test for backpressure for making sure the kitty isn't clogged (due to faulty ignition sending unburned mixture into the cat, messing up your engine.)
Hey Eric O! Love to come down and bring my 2001 Chevy Cavalier 2.4L to look at =) She's still going strong with 150km's and It's been in Nova Scotia Canada it's whole life!
How did Eric know I've just bought a pair of these and they're currently lawn art!! There is one good car between the two so I guess I'll end up being one of those guys leaving long voicemails in the background while Mr. O burns the midnight oil!!
A rotary that still has an emissions system? Dang, that's a rare sight. My rotary is over here with the belt running the air pump removed because the pulley was misaligned, didn't feel like fixing it since its an 80s car. We don't have emissions regulations on cars over 25 years old here, so I'm in the process of removing as much of the emissions system as I can.
I also got those two codes at the same time, cleared them couple of times but it keeps coming back. I guess its time to replace that solenoid. P2259 Secondary air injection system (AIR), control B, - Circuit low P0410 Secondary air injection (AIR) system - malfunction Update: Ordered one solenoid, and had to take of the air intake manifold to change them. I found that one of the solenoids had a broken "nose pipe" (vacuum in/out which ever). Replaced it with the new one and thought it should fix it. And it did for a while until I went back on the highway recently and got only the P2259 again..... guess the one that was broken was not the one for air pump.
As an owner of an 05 RX-8 I can say most owners just delete the cat and the secondary air pump as it's not necessary for the vehicles function and is pointless once you delete the Cat anyways. Also since the Cat is known on the vehicle to clog early, and the pump to go bad around 80-100k miles Man I love this car so much. Its unironically one of my all time favorite vehicles I've ever driven. Super responsive, phenomenal handling even at stock, and just all around fun to take to red line.
I have an idea for some videos for you and other UA-cam technicians during these strange sequestered times: A man-vs-torque wrench challenge. Three or more torque specifications are chosen, perhaps something like 80 in-lbs, 30 ft-lbs, and 60 ft-lbs. Each participant attempts to tighten a fastener to a torque specification, and then the actual torque applied to the fastener is measured by attempting to loosen it with a torque wrench dialed into progressively higher settings or by using one of those digital torque adapters that Project Farm and Gosforth Handyman use in their testing if the participant happens to have one. I would love to see a shootout between this Eric the Car Guy, Eric O from South Main Auto, Scanner Danner, Diagnose Dan, etc. The prize is just bragging rights. I think it would be really interesting to see how close or far an experienced hand can get to a given torque spec.
I had to do a SAS on my 03 Cadillac, turned out to the the pump it self but had to do the whole testing from the fuse to the relay to the actual control valves before checking the pump...the pump was full of water! Imagine that.
I would like thank Eric for "there's your problem lady" I've used similar in the past with friend and good customers. lol always get that look and giggle or scoff lol
I remember watching that VW video. I don't think my comment will show up if I include a link. I think it was a 2 part video, July 8/9 2019. "Volkswagen Jetta: P2431 Secondary Air Injection Signal Improbable", "VW Jetta: Secondary AIR Pressure Sensor - The Fix & Verify".
South Main Auto...... "The more you play with it the quicker it stops working".. My dad told me that when I was a boy but I never knew what he was talking about until now. HAHAHAHAHA
I miss my RX-8! It was a blast to drive, but a bitch to own. Displacement of a 3 cylinder, power of a 6 cylinder, and fuel consumption of an 8 cylinder. Burned oil by design and had 3 different engines in it by the time I lost it! Either way, nothing could replicate that feeling of revving to 9 grand on a country road.
Hope you can video, taking off the upper intake manifold...best replacement of all Qty 3 solenoids, uses same part # for SSV, VDI, Airpump. Will do mine soon.
Hey Eric the air pump solenoid is a common issue, the pump will only run during cold start up. As you figured out the solenoid is located on the back of the intake manifold, they can cause an intermittent failure. There are no bulletins and all 3 solenoids on the back will be the same part number. If you have small enough hands you can change it without intake removal otherwise the upper plenum needs to be removed. When changing it double check the connector as the wiring will corrode at the back of the connector even though the pins look good.
Your hard starting issue can be due to a lack of compression. Rotary's generate more compression the faster you crank them so a weak battery will easily flood the engine. Avoid starting a cold rotary and shutting it off before it warms up as flooding will occur. If you are going to shut it off before it's warm rev the engine to 3-4000 rpm while shutting it off, this will purge the rotor housings of excess fuel. A hard start on hot engine is a clear cut indicator of low compression.
I've been a Mazda Master Tech for over 15 years and spend a good chunk of my summers de-flooding RX-8 motors!
Very true for the majority or RX-8's which are Series I. None of these are usual problems with the Series II (2009+) as long as the engine has never run out of oil.
Rob Buell, great advise! I have had to deal with many flooded rotary engines. It can be difficult to say the least.
Don't know how many times I had to pull plugs and dry them or change them and blow out the chambers on a cold start/stop flooded RX-7.
I honestly think this is what is wrong with my 2004 mazda rx8. I just got it. It has 62000 miles. Runs good on a cold start, but when driving I loose power, and regain it slightly when pushing the pedal down a further than usual.
@@She1lby how do you know if its on? I'm trying to diagnose my RX8 too since it will stall randomly and I'm wondering if it could be due to lack of airflow. I already replaced my Barometric sensor as I was told this can be one of the causes of stalling. It only ever happens when I put it into neutral whether that be from rolling, or even if I'm holding still and take it out of gear. Not sure why
I had a '72 RX-2 Mazda that I got from my Dad. That was absolutely THE SMOOTHEST engine I ever had!! It had a 4 speed manual..... one time I got on the
freeway and turned up the cassette (yeah I'm dating myself LOL) listening to Elton John and John&Yoko in 3rd at 80mph. Never noticed I was tacked out. After about
15 miles I noticed it.
Exactly what i was going to say. I had a buddy in the 70's that let me drive his RX3. I loved it! A powerhouse of an engine, but only got about 17 MPG, and it seemed like every time we went somewhere, we were either buying oil or putting oil into it.
Eric your videos have become part of my daily routine. Wake up, make coffee, let dogs out, turn on the Firestick, then watch you wrestle with rust or pesky wires!!! Thanks so much for sharing your life with us. Please stay safe and healthy and maybe I can get back to work soon.
"changed out the AIR pump 4 TIMES!?"
@@SF-tb4kb Firmware UPDATES, however, do make sense - to your point. However, just reflashing the same image over and over again is pointless. As someone who does this for a living, flashing it "twice" doesn't do anything. The image is either good or it's not, and if it's not good, the device will reject the firmware in the first place.
Ultimately people confuse *SETTINGS* with *FIRMWARE*. They are two different things, and more often than not a reset to factory settings is what's warranted, not reflashing the same firmware over and over again. That's pointless.
Cool description of what's happening with the air pump
Eric you are a nice escape from the hell of our worlds current situation, please stay healthy brother we need you!
Love the that little guy in the ECM with his check list. Seen him a couple of times.
Solved it before the snow melted, impressive! I tip my hat to you, one professional to another!
Eric, Love the videos. You diagnosed it but you did not state what you are going to replace, and show us how to replace it. That is why we like the wheel bearing, brake and ball joint replacement videos so much. We get to watch you work and see you problem solve. Thanks for instruction.
I used to work on a lot of RX8s but I don't even see them on the roads anymore. I guess they all blew up. By far the most common issue I saw with these was either stalling when hot or no start, sometimes for the same reason. The stalling when hot was usually when the apex seals fail and the engine won't make enough compression to maintain a hot idle, so they'll run OK cold, start to lose power as they get hot until they eventually stall and won't restart. The cold no starts are usually operator error causing the engine to flood. Mazda had a tsb for this suggesting cleaning or replacing the spark plugs and installing a larger battery and uprated starter. Of course, that was a bandaid at best. The automatics were a pain to get started again, I'd usually grab the most skookum battery charger the shop had, set it to full battery fryer, disconnect the crank sensor and crank for a while, then reconnect and try again. Sometimes I'd put a little oil in the vacuum ports in the Manifold. For the manuals, I'd grab one of the tow truck drivers, have them hook up their truck to the car and drag it around the yard for a while in gear. Dragging it in gear spins the engine up to mucn higher rpm than the starter could do and usually got them started in short order. I'd always unplug the air pump for either procedure though, because flooded engines flood the cat with fuel too. The last thing it needs is to be soaked with fuel, blasted with heat and blown with fresh air.
We have this car! Can't believe SMA got one in the shop. Hope you warmed it up before shutting it off, though, because there is nothing like trying to get it running again after the residual gas washes away the oil leaving absolutely zero compression! Just makes a pleasant whirring sound.
My grandfather helped develop the Wankel engine felix wankel was his friend both were from germany ..my Grandfather was a master machinist..he eventually moved into working for the New York Times ,,,,, a Master machinist working on huge printing presses ... My two uncles ended up working as master machines for the times doing the same thing as my grandfather ... I’ve been to the Times two times in my life when they took me to work.. Great memories.. also back in 95 i had a 1988 rx7 black , tinted black,chrome wheels was my baby .. killer audio system.. Used to cruise north New Jersey with that..Got tired of it . cleaning it all the time ,,waxing it all the time,, sold it in 1997 for 2,500 90,000 miles on it.. then i got a beater car not one care in the world ... but got me around,,,, ... I still have the two subwoofers from the mazda, I used in the back.. Which need to be rebuilt
Thanks for keeping on in tough times. After years of working on computerized cars {bought my first OTC scan tool in 1986}, when a customer asks how a computer in a car works, I simply reply FM . After a odd look and the usual "What"s FM?" I reply "FRICKING MAGIC" !!! That"s as good as man with a clip board.Thanks again Eric. '
Hey Eric, My 08 Tundra did pretty much the same thing a while back. It was raining out and my truck popped the money light and the traction light. I don't know if it was the rain maybe getting in there somehow I don't know. Also I think my truck went into limp mode. Anyway, I drove it to a store and back and then checked for codes. The code that it had was the drivers side bank Secondary Air Pump. I cleared the codes and I haven't had any problems since. In fact, it was the first engine light I've seen since I got the truck and I've had it for about 5 years. Just some info I had to share. Love the videos and Y'all stay safe.
"Oddly enough, when we first looked at it, it worked. But the more you play with it, it stops working. That is just the way life is folks"
Eric O. 2020
#truestory or you'll just go blind....
@@SouthMainAuto dont "condition" too much ;)
Whatever happened to "use it or lose it"?
They have a little blue pill for that............
My mother used to say "you keep doing that and you'll get it to where it won't work". At age 70 i find that she is right
Praying for the end to this virus mess, Eric you and your family stay safe
you dont have to pray it will pass all by itself.
@@crisprtalk6963
Praying may help.
@@crisprtalk6963 (God hears...) "TWO YEARS OF CORONA FOR YOU ALL!!!" Muhahaha!
A true professional always makes the job look easy. Clear thinking again from Eric. You put college professors to shame - Looks pretty chilly outside- 22C here in Spain - Great video.
Eric, I look after an RX-8 in Australia and it had this exact issue a few months ago. The solenoid at the back of the engine was the issue. Replaced it and it’s been sweet since :)
I'm impressed, Eric figured it our before the snow melted on the window , I would have had it in the garage at home and it would have started to rust . :)
Best car I have ever owned. Over hear in the UK I had a 2006 rx8 full bridge port lot's of mods insanely quick. Drank fuel and oil
Love those rotary cars, it’s a damn shame Mazda stopped making them.
"had to stop"
Having been pretty deep into rx8’s I’ve noticed that the solenoid valves on the back of the intake are prone to intermittent failure. This also includes the ssv variable geometry intake system which is in the same location. These solenoid valves are actually sourced from Mitsubishi and imo are not the greatest quality. Also, the A.I.R. valve that you previously thought was stuck is a common issue due to carbon. Taking off the two 10mm bolts and removing the valve will expose it and make it easier to clean.
Hey Eric, hope you and your family is doing well. Not an easy one to start out on. Battery dead, but still get a code. Charge the battery, still have code, start doing systemic checks. Hum! Everything works! Hum?!? Switching thru the computer, all of a sudden it quit. Oh there is your problem lady!!! LOL!!! Nice work Eric....
Hey, that was actually helpful and fun to watch. I just took my series 2 RX8 to get smogged and failed for the first time. We checked the codes and I found out my car has the P0410 CEL code for the air pump. I'm hoping i don't need to replace it, Mazda wants $500 and I'm pressed for cash haha!
Do you know what it was I have the same code?
It failed right in front of you and with the hood up. I would call that great luck. Watching you do what they ask me not to do for the moment is like an ice cream cone.. Stay well!
Secondary AIR injection, an engineering marvel! The only time I had a check engine light come on was when the valves went Kaput. I tried cleaning with brake cleaner to get the one way valve working, worked for a minute then they both quit. 2000 GMC Yukon with the big 5.3. Replaced both valves, good to go. Those pumps sound like a hair dryer. I hated intermittent broken stuff! At least it stayed broken so you can diagnose. Don't know if you got the email of your daughter on the Pontiac G6 spring replacement, about 4 years ago. Catching up to old Vidjeo's!
good video, as always! My neighbor has the same car and the same code, but his air motor isn't working - open circuit. I think they are needed in these cars because they are SUPER rich when they start up, need that oxygen to oxidize the HCs into H2O and CO2
Southampton UK, baking in 22 degrees C today....keep em coming many thanks......…..
Hey I just put a rebuilt rotary in my boys 09 rx8 two weeks ago. He's still breaking it in. He's up to 500 miles. Already changed the the oil and checked compression. All good so far.
These things don't use the usual compression testing method, they got their own device to test with.
Having a crazy issue with my RX8. Trying to deflod so it will run again. Awful issue with these cars. Love your video's man. Stay well!
Always get excited to see a SMA notification. Stay safe!
At least that explains the voices I'm hearing. It's reassuring to know that there is someone in there.
Must be a pleasant change to have an engineered car in your workshop for a change
It still is an amazing invention by Mr. Felix Wankel and Mazda solved the problem of the compression/oilscraper seals pretty good.
This engine is further known as a "stationairy" one, See how smooth it runs. Love it.
"And inside the ECM, there's MAGIC!". Awesome!
thats a well taken care of vehicle the owner definitely loves it
Another fun video Eric. Rare to see a video featuring a rotary engine diagnostics without Apex seals mentioned😂
I imagine that there is a current sense resistor in line in the ecu, and the voltage drop across it is monitored.
But that valve was taking the micky lol.
Love the whiteboard diagrams :-D
Thanks Eric O for the videos you send our way. I automatically hit like at the beginning, never disappointed.
I wonder why the people, probably the same ones hit the dislike.
I have never used a dislike on anyone's channel, for I figure if I don't like it , I have the choice to go to another.
But hey, I guess each time one of the haters do that, you get another view!
Anyone else get happy when you get a notification of a new video? Class is now in session. Stay safe O family and God Bless. IMO, best channel on You Tube, always a learning experience.
Thanks for posting these videos. It’s good to see you each and every time. Some of us are quarantined at home, and it’s good to see you and hear your great sense of humor while showing us your gifted approach to troubleshooting problems.
It’s great to be looking over your shoulder. And thanks for the free Cokes (not a sponsor) and chips while we watch! 😂😂
Take care and be safe. Great video!!
Nice Diag! Sure is nice when the (intermittent) failing solenoid FINALLY FAILS! When that happened to me and the component or wire finally had shown itself, I'd yell out, "I gotcha!" Replace/repair the valve so all will be well in Mazda Land again!
wow Eric that has to be a historic first to be working on a rotory Mazda ! Stay safe and well up there in upstate New York.
This is why I've watched your channel for years. Common sense will prevail! Well..... On your channel yes. Others not so much. Great vids
I'm drunk, watching George Jones music videos on youtube, suddenly a notification comes up, there's a new SMA video, so of course now i'm watching it!
your grammar is too good, sounds like you need to drink more
@@jimmybaronio479 I am not even american, I'm norwegian, now i can drink a lot more! :)
Is the any other way to watch George?
@@VWWRENCHIE I have not tried any other
I need a drink too. Liquor store is closed now. :(
Great explanation Eric. You should draw more on that whiteboard.
A rotary !!! I had a 1973 Rx3 with a 260hp 13B - she could dance that girl !!!! Sold it when had kids - now their worth over $100K in Australia....
Guess whats cheap now! ......RX8,s. Snap one up if you've got some spare cash.
@@watsisbuttndo829 Yes, they are very inexpensive for an excellent-handling sports car. Just make sure you get the Series II (2009-2011) and NOT the Series I (2004-2008) which had more problems than a porcupine with a skin rash.
You think of selling the kids now that they are worth $100k?
dream on..
All the classic Japanese sports cars are appreciating so much in Aus right now, I had the opportunity to buy an imported R32 GTR back in 2006 for around $18,000 but didn't because it would have stretched my finances a little too far, now the cheapest are around the $50,000 mark. Instead I bought a 1990 Rx-7 Turbo for $11,000 they've gone up too but not by anywhere near as much.
Nice fun car!
Did not know about the compression in it’s early life.
More Mazda videos Eric! Love them
I had a problem with the secondary air solenoid on my 2007 Trailblazer. About every 3 weeks on average the money light would come on and then go back out after a few days. Code was for cat warm up inefficiency. I did a little research which led me to the solenoid valve possibly sticking intermittently. The code would then self clear after 3 successful cold starts. With nothing to risk I tried an Ivan solution; disconnected the solenoid's air feed hose and shot WD40 into the valve. It has been fine for almost 2 years now. No parts required!
I'm lost on this one. Have to watch it a few times.
Eric thanks for a pleasant diversion, as well as a detailed diagnosis. Stay safe!
And now we all know what ECMs run on. Magic smoke😜
Good to see you ,how’s everyone,hopefully will can all enjoy your videos at the end of all this,keep safe everyone,thanks for video.ps I’ve never worked on a rx8 come to that a rotary at all,anyway 😊.
Apparently Jeremey Clarkson loves it.
My buddy's 1984 RX-7 was a complete money loss. But so fun!
Eric, Great video - thank you! I think the windshield washer bottle is bigger than the engine!
SMA#1
God bless
Paul (in MA)
Had a similar problem with my 98 Z3, the air valve stuck open and exhaust gas backed up into the pump until it rusted solid. Fortunately there is a delete kit available for this. Once installed, no more check engine light.
Fantastic 12v diagnostic and explanation
You missed your calling as an artist. Great explanation
Sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good. Gotta love when it breaks on camera!
Great stuff as usual. I always enjoy the whiteboard lessons.
How nice. it has a built in shop vac!
LOL
Great and easy way to test for backpressure for making sure the kitty isn't clogged (due to faulty ignition sending unburned mixture into the cat, messing up your engine.)
Funny thing is my 08 Chevrolet cobalt has the same p0411. Thanks for this help.
I can't believe it two videos in two days really that was very nice of you thanks for posting
Eric O, great job on the Wankel, pretty rare to see them being worked on. Thank you.
Hey Eric O! Love to come down and bring my 2001 Chevy Cavalier 2.4L to look at =) She's still going strong with 150km's and It's been in Nova Scotia Canada it's whole life!
Finally caught one of those intermittent beasts. Thanks for the video.
The man is a mechanical wizard!
How did Eric know I've just bought a pair of these and they're currently lawn art!! There is one good car between the two so I guess I'll end up being one of those guys leaving long voicemails in the background while Mr. O burns the midnight oil!!
A rotary that still has an emissions system? Dang, that's a rare sight.
My rotary is over here with the belt running the air pump removed because the pulley was misaligned, didn't feel like fixing it since its an 80s car. We don't have emissions regulations on cars over 25 years old here, so I'm in the process of removing as much of the emissions system as I can.
Thanks for keeping me sane in this time of lock down
Really good video. Good diagnosis, you did. And the RX8, is a nice car.
SMA +Rotary engine=perfect combo!!
I also got those two codes at the same time, cleared them couple of times but it keeps coming back. I guess its time to replace that solenoid.
P2259
Secondary air injection system (AIR), control B, - Circuit low
P0410
Secondary air injection (AIR) system - malfunction
Update: Ordered one solenoid, and had to take of the air intake manifold to change them. I found that one of the solenoids had a broken "nose pipe" (vacuum in/out which ever). Replaced it with the new one and thought it should fix it. And it did for a while until I went back on the highway recently and got only the P2259 again..... guess the one that was broken was not the one for air pump.
Thank you Dr Eric O. Have a blessed and safe week to you and your family.
Thank you sir, I always appreciate you sharing your knowledge...
As an owner of an 05 RX-8 I can say most owners just delete the cat and the secondary air pump as it's not necessary for the vehicles function and is pointless once you delete the Cat anyways.
Also since the Cat is known on the vehicle to clog early, and the pump to go bad around 80-100k miles
Man I love this car so much. Its unironically one of my all time favorite vehicles I've ever driven. Super responsive, phenomenal handling even at stock, and just all around fun to take to red line.
Problem is the owner is in new york, where he has to pass inspections and emissions, ohio no problem, Ny or Ca no go
@@splice247 rip for them. Fortunately Mazda still makes the pumps since the cars still _relitively_ new (last models are only 8 years old)
I have an idea for some videos for you and other UA-cam technicians during these strange sequestered times:
A man-vs-torque wrench challenge. Three or more torque specifications are chosen, perhaps something like 80 in-lbs, 30 ft-lbs, and 60 ft-lbs. Each participant attempts to tighten a fastener to a torque specification, and then the actual torque applied to the fastener is measured by attempting to loosen it with a torque wrench dialed into progressively higher settings or by using one of those digital torque adapters that Project Farm and Gosforth Handyman use in their testing if the participant happens to have one.
I would love to see a shootout between this Eric the Car Guy, Eric O from South Main Auto, Scanner Danner, Diagnose Dan, etc. The prize is just bragging rights. I think it would be really interesting to see how close or far an experienced hand can get to a given torque spec.
Hello Eric I see snow there. thanks for the video!
I had to do a SAS on my 03 Cadillac, turned out to the the pump it self but had to do the whole testing from the fuse to the relay to the actual control valves before checking the pump...the pump was full of water! Imagine that.
I would like thank Eric for "there's your problem lady" I've used similar in the past with friend and good customers. lol always get that look and giggle or scoff lol
I remember watching that VW video. I don't think my comment will show up if I include a link. I think it was a 2 part video, July 8/9 2019. "Volkswagen Jetta: P2431 Secondary Air Injection Signal Improbable", "VW Jetta: Secondary AIR Pressure Sensor - The Fix & Verify".
I drove one of those many years ago at a dealer's. Sweet.
South Main Auto...... "The more you play with it the quicker it stops working".. My dad told me that when I was a boy but I never knew what he was talking about until now. HAHAHAHAHA
The only time u want something to brake and it does. Good job
Famus Man Break*
Great video Eric! Glad you caught it acting up!
I miss my RX-8! It was a blast to drive, but a bitch to own. Displacement of a 3 cylinder, power of a 6 cylinder, and fuel consumption of an 8 cylinder. Burned oil by design and had 3 different engines in it by the time I lost it! Either way, nothing could replicate that feeling of revving to 9 grand on a country road.
thanks eric! goin nuts sittin around😊
Always excellent work. Good job Eric!
The snow on the RX8 was a nice touch
Nice Eric love seeing some mazdas and other foreign automakers
thanks for your time, next time show us all the snow in April down on LI NO Snow like spring Time Thanks again BILL N LINY
perseverance pays off
Eric, I know you're supposed to change oil every 4k or 5k miles, but how often am I supposed to feed the ecm man?
Cadillac called. The dealership is still estimating the cost to replace that battery.
Hope you can video, taking off the upper intake manifold...best replacement of all Qty 3 solenoids, uses same part # for SSV, VDI, Airpump. Will do mine soon.
Question? When you are using a test light to check control from pcm. What amperage are you comfortable pulling ?? Thankyou
Thats was good to see. Because I don't know anything about the rotory engine.
Another great video from SMA , Thanks, stay safe
Magic, Love it! We use that a lot in the electric trade.