Thanks for the video - I didn't know where the temp sensor was - however for other readers, on my Neff U1564NOGB double oven, although the sensor is located in the same place and looks similar, the sensor needs to be removed from the back of the oven which in turn requires the oven to be removed from the plinth and the back cover removed. The sensor lead is tie wrapped into a wiring loom and is connected to the main control board on top of the oven, underneath another cover of course. Straight forward enough but just not as easy as the unit in this video. Thanks again for info - it was enough to encourage me to to the job and the cook in the family is over the moon as the improvement in the oven's performance!
I was able to unscrew the sensor, but was concerned about disconnecting it from the wire clip. Glad I saw your video and that you mentioned “pressing” it to release it. 👍🏼
Hey everybody so i have an lg and the builders pretty much put a zip tie around the connection end of the sensor. It would not allow the wire to feed out through the inside of the oven. Don't fret though. Slide tube oven forward so you can work on the backside of the oven. There is a panel that has about 16 screws and a smaller rectangular panel box that connects to that with two screws. Remove all of those and remove the panels. You will then see your thermostat connector there. Simply disconnect and pull out through inside of oven. This works for the people who have accidentally disconnected the connection prematurely as well. Lg wanted $130 for them to simply show up and then hourly, plus parts for fix. Even with having to take the back panel off and giving the oven a good scrub where it needed on the sides, it only took me, a first time oven fixer who is not very patient or mechanically inclined about one hour. Thanks for the channel. You saved me at least $200-300 for sure. I only paid $60 for the oem part.
Just an FYI if your sensor won’t remove from inside the oven, We had to remove the back of the oven to access the sensor as it was anchored with screws in back. The rest was easy with your video.👍
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel Only cost me $22 for the part :) Gotta love when you dont have to call a repair service. You got any videos how to replace a burner for when that goes out?
You can cut off the old connector near the temperature sensor and strip back the wires by 1/4 inch and then cut off the new connector near the plastic connector and strip back the wires by 1/4 inch. Then use crimp connectors from the hardware store to crimp the wires together 👍
great video. would changing the sensor on a Blue Star gas oven be the solution for continuous click sound when I try to turn on the oven? I changed the igniter and there is still a continuous click. Thanks!
great video - thanks for sharing his. my Samsung DUO has been a bit off for a few months.... recently, C-21 with clearly overheated oven. Both sensors seem ok - no shorts - 1080 ohms at RT. Is it time to swap the main board? is there a test I can do?
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel Mine takes very long to reach set temperature. I had the temperature sensor replaced once. I’m waiting for the temperature sensor to arrive so I can replace it myself. My DCS model is WOU130.
Hi Scott, I have a ge wall oven. Recently replaced the bake element which popped and broke in 2spots. Now oven works when in use correctly but temperature setting light comes back on when oven is off and stays on. Any help would be appreciated.
Scott, i have a Wolf Dual Fuel Range model DF486C and the large oven temperature probe needs to be replaced but it won't pull loose. seems to be stuck deep inside and i dont want to take the chance of pulling it loose. Can i access the probe connection from the back of the oven or can i remove the back from the front to get access? Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to make this video….I was really hoping you would have talked a little bit of what the symptoms were that lead you to believe it was the temperature sensor. My oven simply heats way too slowly and won’t get much over 200 after 30 or 40 mins.
Hi Scott, We have a Bosch double wall convect oven. We removed the screws from the sensor, but are unable to get the wire to pull out exposing the connector to attach the new sensor. It feels as though the connector is squeezed between the back of the oven and the wall or caught on something behind the back of the oven. I don't want to cause more damage to the oven by pulling harder to remove the old connector wire. Help?
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel Hard to say, sometimes they work but then they don't . we can never walk away . Im wondering whether to get a new oven because we had it fixed once already
Have Thermador SCD272TW double wall oven. Trying to replace the sensor. Problem: I get the sensor off the back wall but when I pull it out only about six inches of wire comes out. Don't want to pull too hard and break something. Any ideas.
My oven is giving the F2 error I tested the sensor and it has a normal resistance value of 1080 omh. Could my sensor still be broken or is it something else?
Check your gas valve solenoid coils for resistance. Both need to show continuity and depending on model # somewhere around 216 ohms. If either coil is failed open, the DSI will not send spark signal and does not show up as the error code.
Scott, just 1 hour ago replaced the glow bulbs on my viking.. followed you're video.easy... fixed the heat up problem. Ovens running about 50° above the dial temp. viking model# VGIC365... is this temp sensor replacement video applicable for that oven?
Hi my temperature probe is always secure inside the oven at top. It seems to gone loose . It’s hanging loose in the oven . Is it safe to leave it hanging? If not how do I secure it . It’s a hot point grill oven combi
I have GE jt955-30 double wall oven displays F3 code pointing to temperature sensor.. If broil element is bad, will that show error on Temperature sensor incorrectly? Just curious, if broil element is bad, would it incorrectly point to temperature sensor ? GE WB44T10043 Genuine OEM Broil Element & temp sensor part no GE WB23T10015
G’Day Mate 👋,, great video straight to the point 🫡👍, than you for your time showing all how do fixing by ourselves 🤝👍,, Well My old still westinghouse oven wall mount gas control temperature it says just one high temperature won’t let to drop temperature down,,, it’s happened after my wife cleaned the inside oven she take all inside cover and after finish she switched it on to dry all kind wet or anything water leak in or something it worked great then just today she into baked a cake and bang No temperature control nothing changes the the fire flame it keeps the same won’t drop down just high flame 🤷♂️🤦♂️😊🫡 Anyway you can tell me how to fix what to do ?? Many thanks Merry Christmas and happy new your to you and your family full of health and happiness 🙏🏻😊 Cheers Matt
Hi Scott could you possibly help? I have a Dacor range convection which is bleeping everytime we power it up and it has an F2 error code. I gather this is the sensor mounted on the back of the oven but I simply cant the sensor. Any ideas? Thanks
Scott, my wire went back in after I removed the old sensor and I can’t feel it. It’s the top of a double wall oven, and there’s no rear panel to access the wire. Any ideas?
I have an old Hotpoint stove. It's apartment size. Like 23" wide. I don't know what model it is because there's no info on the oven at all. The info has been destroyed by years of water and food. So I'm not sure what kind of sensor I would need. Do the sensors themselves have info on them?
Great video! Do you have one on how to fix the oven rack sensor? (located in the top left rung where the rack support sits) I think the spring is broken so even when we take all the racks out, it will not allow us to start the self-cleaning mode.
I have the LG LRG 3061st/1. It will preheat to temp the first time, no problem usually - verified with an analog thermometer placed in the oven. Once it preheats, it will not turn the heat back on to keep preheated. So it will drop all the way down to zero. Could this part be the issue?
That’s amazing that you were able to get the connector out so easily. I have a Thermador double about 10 years old and besides the probe being on the opposite side, and about 6”, I cannot for the life of me get that connector out. If I didn’t see you do it, I wouldn’t think my oven had one. I cannot even see it. Any tips?? Thanks. I’ve got a thin plastic tube I’ve been pushing into the hole to try to help any connector get past the start of the hole, but so far nothing. (SECD302)
SAMSUNG - DUEL OVEN, Samsung ne58f9710w range - Seems like many have different issues all wondering if this will fix their issue. Seems like many have different issues all wondering if this will fix their issue. For me, here are my symptoms - Broiler does not work at all. Element does not come on; Upper oven does nothing. When set to 450 (for example), the temp gauge will say 175 with a flashing star next to it but that's it. Nothing heats up. When the bottom oven is selected and is also set to 450, the lower oven does heat up but seems to take forever. After 45 minutes, the temp gauge read 439 and again with a flashing star next to it. (Im guessing the flashing star indicates the set temp has not yet been hit...) I'm guessing I need a thermostat for the top oven. However, I don't know if this model range has one or two (thermostats), and if 2, does the top one also control the broiler or is that something altogether different? What about this 'thermal fuse?" I am open to any and all suggestions...
so what if you need to hard wire the sensor? My sensor wires seem to pull tight and not want to come out more... not sure I have a quick connect.....Do I gotta pull the dang thing out of the wall and take the back off and how so in a way that doesn't require me to unhook the main line electric. (its shut off at the box. ) I have a Frigidaire....fairly older, at least 15 years probably. Came with the house.
Hey is this the same as a temperature 'fuse' - a resistor type device that breaks and causes failure? We did a self clean - which caused the door to lock, display lights go out, oven not work - but the stove tops and warm indication lights still work. Online says a thermostat fuse/thermal fuse is the likely suspect. Its an older ge electric oven jbp76gs3ww. In taking off the back panel, and raising the top - I see nothing that resembles a fuse. I saw another video displaying a circular type fuse, which resembles the oven light housing on the back - but unless a fuse is built into the bottom of the light bulb socket - that's not it. Is this what I'm looking for, not a thermostat fuse but thermostat 'sensor'? Thanks for your time and any help would be greatly appreciated.
You probably figured this out already, lol, but I’ll answer for the next person who wonders :). No, that’s a different part, and to replace it you have to pull the oven out. It’s the reason I’ll never buy whirlpool again. What good is a self cleaning function if every time you use it you have to buy a new fuse and pull the oven out to replace it???
Hi Scott, We tried to replace the heat sensor in our GE oven (PT956S R1SS); unfortunately, we discovered that the connector was fused. We cut the connector off, exposed a small amount of wire and tried to connect the new sensor using a ceramic wire nut. We have a very limited amount of wire protruding from behind the oven, so it’s been really hard to make a good connection. So far, we have failed. Do you have any suggestions? We are also curious what this sensor wire connects to in the back of the oven (in case we have to pull our double oven from the wall). Thanks.
Thanks Al, If you can put something below the double oven that’s about the same height as the bottom of the oven you can easily slide it out onto the support and then takeoff the back panel and there you’ll see those wires for the sensor. I think behind the sensor you’ll see a modular connector that you can unclip and then use the wire nuts to connect the new sensor.
Probably just needs a new temperature sensor. If that doesn’t fix it then it needs a new controller because one of the relays he’s probably stuck in the on position.
I got an f4 error code so I had to keep shutting the oven off at the circuit breaker. I could set a temp and bake but as soon as the baking was complete and the oven turned off, the F4 code would start beeping again after about one minute. Help.
Hey Scott, I pulled the wires out and there was no connector. Just some wires twisted together. Can't solder them together nor use electrical tape. The little plastic caps will probably melt. Recommendations???
If you push the little plastic caps that connect the wires through that hole in the back of the oven called the firewall they should not melt because that area in the back behind the oven doesn’t get very hot.
I have a GE wall oven model # JT3500SF2SS; I need to replace the sensor. Do I need to remove the entire unit out of the wall or can it be replaced like you did in the video? The oven was in a self cleaning mode when a power outage occurred. When power was restored, the oven wouldn't turn back on. Called tech who said unit will need to be removed from wall to change sensor. Can you advise? Thanks
As expected, my oven does not allow the sensor to just slide out and disconnect. I will need to pull the oven out and get to it from the back. Why the hell would I have an oven that made it as simple as this video?
@ I’m going to attempt it 1st thing in the morning. For sure I’ll keep you posted! Thank you again. Keep making videos. It’s the only way I survive. No choice but to figure it out myself now :)
So I tried to do the factory reset on my FEB27S5ABB Frigidaire Single Wall Oven by turning off the power at the breaker for 10 mins and restoring power & still no heating. next thing before i try this step is to have a handyman remove the oven from the wall and press the Red Sensor button on the back and see if that works. Sound like a good idea? Its so odd because when i hit pre-heat and pick lets just say 350 all the lights and functions seem to be working but the actual heating doesn't take place. You hear the oven make the Click sound as if it wants to start heating and everything. So odd.
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel Nope. So i got the part (sensor probe)i unscrewed the old one in the oven and what happens i can't pull the connector through the hole. Talk about stress lol. I can hear it tapping against the back part of the oven. I don't know what to do. Any ideas? i have this new sensor ready to go and the old one hanging down, but can get it through.
Thanks bro
You’re welcome 😊
Thanks for the video - I didn't know where the temp sensor was - however for other readers, on my Neff U1564NOGB double oven, although the sensor is located in the same place and looks similar, the sensor needs to be removed from the back of the oven which in turn requires the oven to be removed from the plinth and the back cover removed. The sensor lead is tie wrapped into a wiring loom and is connected to the main control board on top of the oven, underneath another cover of course. Straight forward enough but just not as easy as the unit in this video. Thanks again for info - it was enough to encourage me to to the job and the cook in the family is over the moon as the improvement in the oven's performance!
Thanks so much Alan👍
I was able to unscrew the sensor, but was concerned about disconnecting it from the wire clip. Glad I saw your video and that you mentioned “pressing” it to release it. 👍🏼
Thanks Brian😊
Thanks for the video. I had to replace the same part on my oven. I did it myself thanks for your help.
Very impressive😊👍
Hey everybody so i have an lg and the builders pretty much put a zip tie around the connection end of the sensor. It would not allow the wire to feed out through the inside of the oven. Don't fret though. Slide tube oven forward so you can work on the backside of the oven. There is a panel that has about 16 screws and a smaller rectangular panel box that connects to that with two screws. Remove all of those and remove the panels. You will then see your thermostat connector there. Simply disconnect and pull out through inside of oven. This works for the people who have accidentally disconnected the connection prematurely as well.
Lg wanted $130 for them to simply show up and then hourly, plus parts for fix. Even with having to take the back panel off and giving the oven a good scrub where it needed on the sides, it only took me, a first time oven fixer who is not very patient or mechanically inclined about one hour.
Thanks for the channel. You saved me at least $200-300 for sure. I only paid $60 for the oem part.
Very impressive 😊😊
Thanks for the video, just changed my temp sensor on a JennAir. You saved me a lot of money. 👍👍
Awesome,
Thank you 👍😊
Just an FYI if your sensor won’t remove from inside the oven, We had to remove the back of the oven to access the sensor as it was anchored with screws in back. The rest was easy with your video.👍
Nice job Jen😊
This video worked perfect for me. I was fixing a double wall mount Fridigaire Professional series oven with the F10 error. Thanks so much!!!
Excellent!😊😊😊
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel Only cost me $22 for the part :) Gotta love when you dont have to call a repair service. You got any videos how to replace a burner for when that goes out?
Our new sensors connector is different. Whats a safe say to splice? Do we need new connectors? How to connect them?
You can cut off the old connector near the temperature sensor and strip back the wires by 1/4 inch and then cut off the new connector near the plastic connector and strip back the wires by 1/4 inch. Then use crimp connectors from the hardware store to crimp the wires together 👍
great video. would changing the sensor on a Blue Star gas oven be the solution for continuous click sound when I try to turn on the oven? I changed the igniter and there is still a continuous click. Thanks!
great video - thanks for sharing his. my Samsung DUO has been a bit off for a few months.... recently, C-21 with clearly overheated oven. Both sensors seem ok - no shorts - 1080 ohms at RT. Is it time to swap the main board? is there a test I can do?
Great Question👍 Click Here to Get Live Expert Help From Me For Just $5.00: ua-cam.com/channels/7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w.htmljoin
I wasn't sure if the circuit breaker needed to be turned off but doesn't seem to be necessary.
Great video, thank you. Can you suggest stores that would sell the temperature sensor? I am having trouble finding retail part stores.
Is this typical for all oven? Mine is DCS and I have the same issue. I already bought the part for it. Thank you fir the video.
What symptom do you have with your DCS oven?
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel Mine takes very long to reach set temperature. I had the temperature sensor replaced once. I’m waiting for the temperature sensor to arrive so I can replace it myself. My DCS model is WOU130.
Gotcha,
A new igniter will fix it
Thanks my friend you saved me a bunch of money!! Thanks!!!
Hi Scott, I have a ge wall oven. Recently replaced the bake element which popped and broke in 2spots. Now oven works when in use correctly but temperature setting light comes back on when oven is off and stays on. Any help would be appreciated.
Can you send a video of that to: scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com
Thanks scott...can you advise what the ohm reading range value should be for testing of a good sensor?
1.087 ohms at room temperature
Scott, i have a Wolf Dual Fuel Range model DF486C and the large oven temperature probe needs to be replaced but it won't pull loose. seems to be stuck deep inside and i dont want to take the chance of pulling it loose. Can i access the probe connection from the back of the oven or can i remove the back from the front to get access? Thanks
Hi Marlon,
Thanks for joining.
Were you able to remove the back panel to get to the connection for the probe?
hi Marlon,
we’re you able to fix it?
Thanks for taking the time to make this video….I was really hoping you would have talked a little bit of what the symptoms were that lead you to believe it was the temperature sensor. My oven simply heats way too slowly and won’t get much over 200 after 30 or 40 mins.
Hey Tommy,
That points to a worn out igniter.
Pretty easy to replace.
I replaced the sensor and my oven is still not heating up. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance and great videos!
Hi Josh, just needs a new ignitor
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel I didn't realize an electric oven needed an ignitor. Do you have a video on that? Thank you.
Awesome job thank you so much
You are very welcome😊
Hi Scott, We have a Bosch double wall convect oven. We removed the screws from the sensor, but are unable to get the wire to pull out exposing the connector to attach the new sensor. It feels as though the connector is squeezed between the back of the oven and the wall or caught on something behind the back of the oven. I don't want to cause more damage to the oven by pulling harder to remove the old connector wire. Help?
Are you pretty sure it needs a new temp. Sensor?
Do you have a video dealing with the stove top elements ? ie all my elements go at full heat
That is odd.
Did that happen all at once or was it over time?
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel Hard to say, sometimes they work but then they don't . we can never walk away . Im wondering whether to get a new oven because we had it fixed once already
Careful & considerate work ty sir
Thanks so much👍
Hi Scott the oven is not heating evenly, is the problem the thermostat or the sensor. Please advise.Thank you.
Thanks Zak,
If it’s a gas oven, I would replace the igniter. That should fix it.
Thanks. Stay well.
Thanks Robert😊
Question? Oven works but doesn't go up to Desired temp? Is it most likely for the temp sensor is bad?
Great Question👍 Click Here to Get Live Expert Help From Me For Just $5.00: ua-cam.com/channels/7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w.htmljoin
Have Thermador SCD272TW double wall oven. Trying to replace the sensor. Problem: I get the sensor off the back wall but when I pull it out only about six inches of wire comes out. Don't want to pull too hard and break something. Any ideas.
Can you send that same question to my email? At: scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com
My oven is giving the F2 error
I tested the sensor and it has a normal resistance value of 1080 omh.
Could my sensor still be broken or is it something else?
Maybe the actual resistor on which the sensor measures the temperature is broken?
Check your gas valve solenoid coils for resistance. Both need to show continuity and depending on model # somewhere around 216 ohms. If either coil is failed open, the DSI will not send spark signal and does not show up as the error code.
Scott, just 1 hour ago replaced the glow bulbs on my viking.. followed you're video.easy... fixed the heat up problem. Ovens
running about 50° above the dial temp. viking model# VGIC365... is this temp sensor replacement video applicable for that oven?
Can you send that same question to my email at: scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com
Can you send me that same question to my email: scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel I sent it yesterday... did u get it?
Sent on 1/1 at 10:45am estime
Hi my temperature probe is always secure inside the oven at top. It seems to gone loose . It’s hanging loose in the oven . Is it safe to leave it hanging? If not how do I secure it . It’s a hot point grill oven combi
I have GE jt955-30 double wall oven displays F3 code pointing to temperature sensor.. If broil element is bad, will that show error on Temperature sensor incorrectly? Just curious, if broil element is bad, would it incorrectly point to temperature sensor ? GE WB44T10043 Genuine OEM Broil Element & temp sensor part no GE WB23T10015
I have two probes, how do I tell which one to replace? Any help is appreciated:)
My oven works fine except for self cleaning it doesn’t get hot enough can this module be the cause?
I’m not sure, sorry.
What happens if the connector is burnt off what then?
Best to remove the back panel and then you may need to splice in a new connector 👍
G’Day Mate 👋,, great video straight to the point 🫡👍, than you for your time showing all how do fixing by ourselves 🤝👍,,
Well My old still westinghouse oven wall mount gas control temperature it says just one high temperature won’t let to drop temperature down,,, it’s happened after my wife cleaned the inside oven she take all inside cover and after finish she switched it on to dry all kind wet or anything water leak in or something it worked great then just today she into baked a cake and bang No temperature control nothing changes the the fire flame it keeps the same won’t drop down just high flame 🤷♂️🤦♂️😊🫡
Anyway you can tell me how to fix what to do ??
Many thanks
Merry Christmas and happy new your to you and your family full of health and happiness 🙏🏻😊
Cheers
Matt
Hi Matt, I think one of the wires got wet and is causing the igniter to always be on. I think once every thing fully dries, it will work again.
Hi Scott could you possibly help? I have a Dacor range convection which is bleeping everytime we power it up and it has an F2 error code. I gather this is the sensor mounted on the back of the oven but I simply cant the sensor. Any ideas?
Thanks
How do I know if that is the problem with my oven overheating ?
Can you send this same question to my email at:
Scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com
My oven goes to an F2 error code at 150°would that be the correct part to replace
That’s right, temperature sensor and maybe igniter👍
How do I figure out what kind of sensor to get. I have a Kitchenaid Superba convection oven
Can you send me that same question to: scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com
Hi, would you have a Viking D3 Thermastat knob replacement video to share? Much appreciated.
Thanks for the video
Thank you
Scott, my wire went back in after I removed the old sensor and I can’t feel it. It’s the top of a double wall oven, and there’s no rear panel to access the wire. Any ideas?
I have an old Hotpoint stove. It's apartment size. Like 23" wide. I don't know what model it is because there's no info on the oven at all. The info has been destroyed by years of water and food. So I'm not sure what kind of sensor I would need. Do the sensors themselves have info on them?
Same here, I've a 1980's Magic Chef & the model and serial number is just vanished off the white metal background on the riveted info plate.
@@fredcdobbs823 I've decided it's time for a new one. lol
Great video! Do you have one on how to fix the oven rack sensor? (located in the top left rung where the rack support sits) I think the spring is broken so even when we take all the racks out, it will not allow us to start the self-cleaning mode.
I have the LG LRG 3061st/1. It will preheat to temp the first time, no problem usually - verified with an analog thermometer placed in the oven. Once it preheats, it will not turn the heat back on to keep preheated. So it will drop all the way down to zero. Could this part be the issue?
mostly, the temperature sensor was not working
@@wenjunli2006 issue was the ignitor. Replaced that and it fixed the prob
That’s amazing that you were able to get the connector out so easily. I have a Thermador double about 10 years old and besides the probe being on the opposite side, and about 6”, I cannot for the life of me get that connector out. If I didn’t see you do it, I wouldn’t think my oven had one. I cannot even see it. Any tips?? Thanks. I’ve got a thin plastic tube I’ve been pushing into the hole to try to help any connector get past the start of the hole, but so far nothing. (SECD302)
Hi samlol23. I am having the same problem on the same oven. Did you figure it out?
Did you ever figure it out?
@@skyryder7662 @ScottTheFixItGuyChannel
I am stuck in the same step. The probe will just not come out. I have a Viking 5 series though.
Excellent video
Thank you very much!👍😊
SAMSUNG - DUEL OVEN, Samsung ne58f9710w range - Seems like many have different issues all wondering if this will fix their issue. Seems like many have different issues all wondering if this will fix their issue. For me, here are my symptoms - Broiler does not work at all. Element does not come on; Upper oven does nothing. When set to 450 (for example), the temp gauge will say 175 with a flashing star next to it but that's it. Nothing heats up. When the bottom oven is selected and is also set to 450, the lower oven does heat up but seems to take forever. After 45 minutes, the temp gauge read 439 and again with a flashing star next to it. (Im guessing the flashing star indicates the set temp has not yet been hit...)
I'm guessing I need a thermostat for the top oven. However, I don't know if this model range has one or two (thermostats), and if 2, does the top one also control the broiler or is that something altogether different? What about this 'thermal fuse?" I am open to any and all suggestions...
I believe, all those symptoms can be cured with new elements.
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel are you suggesting the top element or the bottom element as well?
so what if you need to hard wire the sensor? My sensor wires seem to pull tight and not want to come out more... not sure I have a quick connect.....Do I gotta pull the dang thing out of the wall and take the back off and how so in a way that doesn't require me to unhook the main line electric. (its shut off at the box. ) I have a Frigidaire....fairly older, at least 15 years probably. Came with the house.
I would give yourself a few inches of wire, cut off the old sensor and splice in the new one👍
The wire went back in before I was able to replace the sensor!! Help how can I get it back out🥺
You can remove the back panel to get to the wire from the back👍
Yup. Really easy. Mine was zip tied to other wires. Simple solution, easy to get to.
Hey is this the same as a temperature 'fuse' - a resistor type device that breaks and causes failure?
We did a self clean - which caused the door to lock, display lights go out, oven not work - but the stove tops and warm indication lights still work.
Online says a thermostat fuse/thermal fuse is the likely suspect.
Its an older ge electric oven jbp76gs3ww.
In taking off the back panel, and raising the top - I see nothing that resembles a fuse.
I saw another video displaying a circular type fuse, which resembles the oven light housing on the back - but unless a fuse is built into the bottom of the light bulb socket - that's not it.
Is this what I'm looking for, not a thermostat fuse but thermostat 'sensor'?
Thanks for your time and any help would be greatly appreciated.
You probably figured this out already, lol, but I’ll answer for the next person who wonders :). No, that’s a different part, and to replace it you have to pull the oven out. It’s the reason I’ll never buy whirlpool again. What good is a self cleaning function if every time you use it you have to buy a new fuse and pull the oven out to replace it???
Was wondering what trick(s) to use if the wire is stuck and you can't get the connector out to replace?
You can remove the panel behind the oven and you’ll find the wire.
Hi Scott, We tried to replace the heat sensor in our GE oven (PT956S R1SS); unfortunately, we discovered that the connector was fused. We cut the connector off, exposed a small amount of wire and tried to connect the new sensor using a ceramic wire nut. We have a very limited amount of wire protruding from behind the oven, so it’s been really hard to make a good connection. So far, we have failed. Do you have any suggestions? We are also curious what this sensor wire connects to in the back of the oven (in case we have to pull our double oven from the wall). Thanks.
Thanks Al,
If you can put something below the double oven that’s about the same height as the bottom of the oven you can easily slide it out onto the support and then takeoff the back panel and there you’ll see those wires for the sensor.
I think behind the sensor you’ll see a modular connector that you can unclip and then use the wire nuts to connect the new sensor.
I have LG - LSC5683 electric oven and its over heating. can u please help me out.
Probably just needs a new temperature sensor.
If that doesn’t fix it then it needs a new controller because one of the relays he’s probably stuck in the on position.
But how do u test it to see if the sensors bad?
I got an f4 error code so I had to keep shutting the oven off at the circuit breaker. I could set a temp and bake but as soon as the baking was complete and the oven turned off, the F4 code would start beeping again after about one minute. Help.
Does the make of the piece matter?
Any make should work😊
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel thanks
Hey Scott, I pulled the wires out and there was no connector. Just some wires twisted together. Can't solder them together nor use electrical tape. The little plastic caps will probably melt. Recommendations???
If you push the little plastic caps that connect the wires through that hole in the back of the oven called the firewall they should not melt because that area in the back behind the oven doesn’t get very hot.
I have a GE wall oven model # JT3500SF2SS; I need to replace the sensor. Do I need to remove the entire unit out of the wall or can it be replaced like you did in the video?
The oven was in a self cleaning mode when a power outage occurred. When power was restored, the oven wouldn't turn back on. Called tech who said unit will need to be removed from wall to change sensor. Can you advise? Thanks
As expected, my oven does not allow the sensor to just slide out and disconnect. I will need to pull the oven out and get to it from the back. Why the hell would I have an oven that made it as simple as this video?
Yep, some are real buggers and you need to pull them out and go from the back😬
Mine too. Dang it… the video is helpful though. Thank you. Tomorrow morning I’ll pull it out. It’s between 2 countertops.
@stacynaylor6510 please let us know how it goes 😊
@ I’m going to attempt it 1st thing in the morning. For sure I’ll keep you posted! Thank you again. Keep making videos. It’s the only way I survive. No choice but to figure it out myself now :)
hello sya mau pesan sensor pemanas oven
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Try cleaning the probe with emery cloth or steel wool first.
Good idea👍
Worked for me, time will tell for how long. Got a probe ready too go.
my ge double oven is turning after truning on and temperatures is set. temperature sensor?
Can you send me the model number so I can check?
My wire didn't seem long enough and it came off in the back, looks like I have to pull it out of the wall 😢
Sorry to hear that 😢
Sometimes the season doesn't pull out all the way
The plug is probably stuck behind that metal wall. Try gently pulling it through.
should have shut off the power??
Really good to turn off the breakers.
Savior!
Thank you so much😊
So I tried to do the factory reset on my FEB27S5ABB Frigidaire Single Wall Oven by turning off the power at the breaker for 10 mins and restoring power & still no heating. next thing before i try this step is to have a handyman remove the oven from the wall and press the Red Sensor button on the back and see if that works. Sound like a good idea? Its so odd because when i hit pre-heat and pick lets just say 350 all the lights and functions seem to be working but the actual heating doesn't take place. You hear the oven make the Click sound as if it wants to start heating and everything. So odd.
Could be a bad bake element.
Does broil heat up?
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel Nope. So i got the part (sensor probe)i unscrewed the old one in the oven and what happens i can't pull the connector through the hole. Talk about stress lol. I can hear it tapping against the back part of the oven. I don't know what to do. Any ideas? i have this new sensor ready to go and the old one hanging down, but can get it through.
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel Also both the Broil and the Oven bake element do not heat up.