Yes, your "click" document is very neat indeed. Thanks! I also like that you have a website with this and more descriptions. I like videos to get an overview. And then I take notes of the important things to remember. I also did that with your videos. Now I now you published those notes already on your website, so I don't have to type it anymore. I print and highlight what is important for my installation. Thanks again.
I had been looking through many videos on IKEA kitchen installations, and stoppped when I got to yours b/c they are by far the most detailed and easy to follow imo. Every single video is going to be super helpful, including this one. Thank you so much for taking the time to help DIY'ers. Sent you $50 just now. Thanks again!!
Thank you for all of your videos. My wife and I are remodeling our house using IKEA cabinets. I am getting ready to start installing the rails (yes, I even bought a laser level after watching your videos) and have watched all 3 three videos on the rails. Your information will save me a lot of work and frustration.
This is simply a fantastic channel! The best by far that I have found. What height should I install the bottom of my lower rail if I am installing 2cm quartz and want the countertops to sit at 91 cm (36"), or just slightly under, to be flush with the top of my induction range?
Thanks, Amy ☺️ If you would install it at standard height (32 3/16") the top og the base cabinet will be 34 ½" about the floor. That's half an inch more than you want (34 ½ +2" = 36 ½" so you'll have to lower it with ½" Please note though, that you'll have to trim all your tiekicks as they are designed for 4 ½" under the cabinets.
I think I confused you. 🤪the quartz countertop is only 3/4" thick (2 cm). So wouldn't I need to increase the height by 3/4" more than normal? Can the adjustable legs accommodate that? @@kitchensbyrannes
Wonderful as always. I always learn from your videos. Speaking of rails have you done a stacked wall cabinet video yet? My design has three refrigerator cabinets stacked one end and three stacked on the other end. Learning how you might approach it would be great. Thanks for a really cool web tool!
Your welcome Lyndon. As long as you make sure that the rails are flat, horizontal, vertically in line, and sitting at the correct distance, stacked cabinets almost install themselves. If you click on "something else' in the guide, you'll see that I mention stacked cabinets.
We started the install and have several areas without studs. What hollow wall screw do you recommend for that and how do you best use those. Thanks so much. We love your videos by the way.
Thank you for your question. The answer would be: it depends. If it's for base cabinets only, I wouldn't worry too much as they can stand on four legs and the purpose of the rail is secondary. In that case, I use the anchors shown at the bottom of this page: kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/ If it's for wall cabinets, it's a different story. Wall anchors are not going to be sufficient as, no matter how strong they are, aren't stronger than the weakest link, which will be the drywall if there's no studs near by. Sometimes I tell my client that it's a no-go and in rare cases we add a sheet of plywood across the wall, and secure that into the studs we find, and then screw the rail onto the plywood. Not ideal, but there is no way I'll rely on drywall anchors alone. It would keep me awake at night. If you don't have studs, I take it's not a regular drywall, or is it full of ducts and pipes?
Thank you for the video. Hopefully someone can help me. I have 95 inches from floor to ceiling. My pantry is 94 1/2 with the legs. And I am installing 40 inches walls cabinets. So do I have to have 2.5 from the edge of the cabinets so everything is aligned?
You're welcome. I'm not sure where the 2½ comes from. You'll have ½" plus-minus from the top of the cabinets to the ceiling unless the ceiling and floor are not horizontal. Check this video too: ua-cam.com/video/7v8rvx8jRf8/v-deo.html
Hi, thank you for all the valuable information. I have a question to see if you can help me with. I have a base cabinet that will have a 1 1/8" countertop on it. Then a 30" wall cabinet will sit on top of the countertop, with another 30" wall cabinet stacked on top of that. Should the wall cabinet rail be 30" from the bottom of the base cabinet rail, then another 30" above that for the 2nd stacked cabinet? Or should the first one be 31 1/8" from base rail to bottom of first wall cabinet, then 30" above that for the 2nd one? Or some other measurement? I appreciate your help.
Thanks 😊 The answer to your question is: it depends. Do you have other wall cabinets sitting next to the two 30" high ones you mention? If not, I would not use the rails at all, since you could let the cabinets be stacked on top of the countertop and just secure them into the wall and to each other. To prevent them from tripping forward. If they are part of several cabinets and with a pantry cabinet in the setup too, you must use the rails and be thoughtful when you hang those, since you want the pantry to line up at the bottom of the base cabinets. Check this kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/ Also, in any case, you want the cabinet on the counters to be raised a bit so you can open the door/drawer without hitting the countertop.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you so much for the info. There will be no other cabinets other than a long row of base cabinets and two 30" stacked wall cabinets (to make 60" total) on both the far left and far right. This is for a dining room area. I like your suggestion of just securing them to the wall. As far as raising it a bit, do you have any suggestions on what I could sit it on to raise it a bit?
You're welcome. Cut a piece of panel for that. You'll have panels on the side anyway so if you buy two 15x90" panels, there'll be some leftover you can use.
I've just run in to a bit of a dilemma. From the corner of one wall up to the edge of the window over the sink there are 5 studs. When checking to see if the rails were going fit snugly on the walls I discovered a huge bow in the wall at the midlle (3rd) stud... I mean its bad, bad, bad; the distance between the walls at stud 1 and stud 5 is exactly 109 1/4. The distance between the walls where the 3rd stud's at is 108 1/2. What do I do???
I have a wall that is out of plumb where the lowers are kicked out abount an inch further than the uppers. Ineed to have the uppers and lowers be even because there will be a fridge panel at the end of the cabinets, any idea how i can get the uppers and lowers to line up?
Thank you for your question. That is a very common situation. Well, since you cannot push the movers into the wall, you will have to bump out the upper rail. Either the whole row of uppers or only where the fridge cabinet needs to line up with the lowers. The rail still has to be flat of course so if it's 1" out at one end, and nothing at the other, you must shim in between to keep it flat. If the uppers were protruding the lowers at a fridge, I sometimes let it, as the big panel (36x96") will protrude the lowers bit I find that acceptable as it will cover more if the fridge.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you for that insight, that makes sense. So if i set the upper rail an inch off the wall to make it plumb with the rail of the lowers, I'll now need to basically cut custom finish panels for those uppers since the "standard" ones only come extra long not extra wide? I.e. the 15x42" panels won't work for me anymore because i really need a 16" wide panel now due to the rail being set an in. away from the wall.
@@TheJulius714 That is correct. One problem leads to another. If your fridge is at one end of a row of uppers and the other end needs a panel, I would push it forward where the fridge cabinet needs to line up with the base, and I would leave the other end at the wall and then shim it at each stud to keep the rail (upper) flat. It would be slightly angled in relation to the lower's, but it won't be visible.
4 min video but I can be sure you spent many hours on making the guide - which is excellent. There are many IKEA kitchen channels or videos on YT. But by far the best channel is this one, it's the only one I subscribe to as you really do make the effort to make our kitchen install go well. Thank you so much for Centimetres too. !!!!😃
You're very welcome. You're right, it was quite a mouthful when I decided to do metro too as the cabinet setup is very different. I appreciate your feedback 🙏
Love all your videos. Ikea should pay you!! Anyway, I have the same question as a person below. I have an 1-1/8" countertop. I want to use the suspension rail, going to sit a 15" cabinet on the countertop, then a 40" on top of that. So is it 15" from bottom of rail to bottom of rail, then 55" from bottom of lower cabinet rail (or 40" from bottom of 15" cabinet, same difference). The question is the height of the bottom of the rail from the bottom of the rail on the base cabinet (plus a bit so doors can open)? Thanks.
Thanks. Wouldn't that be nice 😀 Cabinets. In your case, I wouldn't use the rail for those two cabinets, unless your countertop is flimsy laminate with fake thickness. If it is a solid countertop, I would assemble both cabinets (but don't put on the white plastic pieces at the back), cut a piece of 1/2" panel in the with of the cabinets, put it between the counter top and the bottom cabinet, and then stack the 40" on top. I would then connect the two cabinets so they are perfectly flush on both sides and at the front, before I secure them into the wall with the regular brackets but with the black plastic spacer in place. Securing the 40" upper is sufficient since they are attached to each other. The only reason to attach them to the wall is for them not to tilt forward when the doors are open. Finally, cut and mount a panel on both sides, running from the top to the counter. If you really really want to use the rail, do the same as explained before, but leave out the black plastic parts. Put the rail on the 40" cabinet (with the grey clips) before placing the cabinet against the wall. Mark on the wall where the rails sits, remove cabinet and attach the rail to wall and then put both cabinets in place again.
@@kitchensbyrannes WOW! Such a quick reply. I want the rails as I feel more secure and to stop from tipping with weight. Actually putting 36" wide - two - 15" and two - 40" (on top) side-by-side - so I can run a long rail (76"). This way I hit many studs. Should be more secure. Again, I wish Ikea would add you and your videos to all their cabinets. Love the step-by-step and detailed explanations.
Thank you so much for these videos. I am about to embark on my first IKEA kitchen installation and I am sure glad I have you as a resource. I wonder if you could provide some advice. My project includes a 200 cm fridge cabinet with a 40 cm top cabinet on top of it, which will create a combined 240 cm structure. I am not sure whether I should use hanging rails for both pieces or just one of the two (for instance, connect the two pieces together and then use a hanging rail just for the top one). Right next to this structure I have to install 100 cm cabinets and my concern is that it will be difficult to line them up at the top. These 100 cm cabinets and the 40 cm top cabinets will be attached to the same rail. However, if I also hang the 200 cm frige cabinet to a lower rail and don't get the rail heights exactly right, my concern is that the 40 cm top cabinets will end up being supported by the 200 cm fridge cabinet below it and not by the rails, whereas the 100 cm cabinets right next to it will be hanging from the rails. This could make it difficult to line them up perfectly. Am I overthinking this? Your advice would be much appreciated. Thank you
Thank you for your comment and question. No, you are not overthinking it because if you don't do it right, the cabinets will not line up, as you mentioned. It is not important to have a rail for the 40 cm cabinet, but since you have the 100 cm next to it, and the cabinets must be flush at the top and front, I would do this: Hang the rail for the 200 cm cabinet. Then, install the rail for the 40 & 100 cm exactly 40 cm higher up on the wall. It is important that the two rails are horizontal and mounted on the same vertical plane. Have you checked the guide on this page? kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/ Choose "Centimeters" and then "Ceiling above 248 cm and finally "Base & Stacked Wall+Pantry." When installing, hang the pantry cabinet first, then the 40 cm (without the plastic spacers at the bottom) and then the 100 cm.
@@kitchensbyrannes thank you so much for your answer, very helpful. I will be installing the kitchen in about 1 month and I am trying to learn as much as possible in advance to make the job easier. I will definitely use your website as a resource. Since I already know the layout of the kitchen, I am thinking about buying the rails now and installing them on the wall before the kitchen arrives, so I can take all the time I need to make sure they are positioned perfectly. It would be one less thing to worry about when the kitchen gets here.
I just want to say how grateful i have been that you make and share such helpful videos. Your website is awesome too! Thank you, thank you, thank you! I can not imagine trying to do this without your insights. I just finished building a floating island so I wouldn’t have to put holes in my solid oak kitchen floor! The system you have developed to use ikea products is spot on ! Thank you from the hinterlands of Wyoming, USA
Hi Margery. Thank you so much for your comment. I'm happy that you find my videos helpful, and receiving messages like this one from you, really energize me to do more. Thanks again 🙏
Yes, your "click" document is very neat indeed. Thanks!
I also like that you have a website with this and more descriptions. I like videos to get an overview. And then I take notes of the important things to remember. I also did that with your videos. Now I now you published those notes already on your website, so I don't have to type it anymore. I print and highlight what is important for my installation. Thanks again.
You're very welcome, Edgar.
I had been looking through many videos on IKEA kitchen installations, and stoppped when I got to yours b/c they are by far the most detailed and easy to follow imo. Every single video is going to be super helpful, including this one. Thank you so much for taking the time to help DIY'ers. Sent you $50 just now. Thanks again!!
Thanks a lot Marty. Your feedback and support means a great deal to me 🙏
Thank you for all of your videos. My wife and I are remodeling our house using IKEA cabinets. I am getting ready to start installing the rails (yes, I even bought a laser level after watching your videos) and have watched all 3 three videos on the rails. Your information will save me a lot of work and frustration.
You're very welcome. I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful.
Good luck with your installation 👍
Thank you from Maui! I'm about to install my kitchen and all of your videos and website are so helpful!
You're very welcome, Mary.
Good luck with the installation 👍
Awesome thank you the information is user friendly.
Thanks. I'm glad you like it 😊
awesome, you saved me week before moving into our new flat! great job, many many thanks 😊
You're very welcome 🤗
IKEA needs to start paying you for all the help you provide.
Nah, Ikea wants to install your, and others, kitchen ☺️ Who knows, maybe I'll start asking for donations from my subscribers one day 😀
Tried it out and it was very helpful.
Glad it helped.
Thank you so much for sharing! It is so helpful!
You're very welcome 🤗
This is simply a fantastic channel! The best by far that I have found. What height should I install the bottom of my lower rail if I am installing 2cm quartz and want the countertops to sit at 91 cm (36"), or just slightly under, to be flush with the top of my induction range?
Thanks, Amy ☺️
If you would install it at standard height (32 3/16") the top og the base cabinet will be 34 ½" about the floor.
That's half an inch more than you want (34 ½ +2" = 36 ½" so you'll have to lower it with ½"
Please note though, that you'll have to trim all your tiekicks as they are designed for 4 ½" under the cabinets.
I think I confused you. 🤪the quartz countertop is only 3/4" thick (2 cm). So wouldn't I need to increase the height by 3/4" more than normal? Can the adjustable legs accommodate that? @@kitchensbyrannes
Yes, you certainly did ☺️
Yes, the legs can accommodate the extra 3/4". No problem 👍
You're the best! Thanks so much.
@@kitchensbyrannes
My pleasure.
Wonderful as always. I always learn from your videos. Speaking of rails have you done a stacked wall cabinet video yet? My design has three refrigerator cabinets stacked one end and three stacked on the other end. Learning how you might approach it would be great. Thanks for a really cool web tool!
Your welcome Lyndon.
As long as you make sure that the rails are flat, horizontal, vertically in line, and sitting at the correct distance, stacked cabinets almost install themselves.
If you click on "something else' in the guide, you'll see that I mention stacked cabinets.
We started the install and have several areas without studs. What hollow wall screw do you recommend for that and how do you best use those.
Thanks so much. We love your videos by the way.
Thank you for your question.
The answer would be: it depends.
If it's for base cabinets only, I wouldn't worry too much as they can stand on four legs and the purpose of the rail is secondary.
In that case, I use the anchors shown at the bottom of this page:
kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
If it's for wall cabinets, it's a different story. Wall anchors are not going to be sufficient as, no matter how strong they are, aren't stronger than the weakest link, which will be the drywall if there's no studs near by.
Sometimes I tell my client that it's a no-go and in rare cases we add a sheet of plywood across the wall, and secure that into the studs we find, and then screw the rail onto the plywood. Not ideal, but there is no way I'll rely on drywall anchors alone.
It would keep me awake at night.
If you don't have studs, I take it's not a regular drywall, or is it full of ducts and pipes?
Hey, Thanks for the video and the guide!
Glad to help!
Rannes do you have a link to the small hand drill you use? Thank you.
Yes, certainly.
It's found at the bottom of this page:
kitchensbyrannes.com/easy-assembly-of-ikea-drawers/
Thank you for the video.
Hopefully someone can help me. I have 95 inches from floor to ceiling.
My pantry is 94 1/2 with the legs. And I am installing 40 inches walls cabinets.
So do I have to have 2.5 from the edge of the cabinets so everything is aligned?
You're welcome.
I'm not sure where the 2½ comes from.
You'll have ½" plus-minus from the top of the cabinets to the ceiling unless the ceiling and floor are not horizontal.
Check this video too:
ua-cam.com/video/7v8rvx8jRf8/v-deo.html
Hi, thank you for all the valuable information. I have a question to see if you can help me with. I have a base cabinet that will have a 1 1/8" countertop on it. Then a 30" wall cabinet will sit on top of the countertop, with another 30" wall cabinet stacked on top of that. Should the wall cabinet rail be 30" from the bottom of the base cabinet rail, then another 30" above that for the 2nd stacked cabinet? Or should the first one be 31 1/8" from base rail to bottom of first wall cabinet, then 30" above that for the 2nd one? Or some other measurement? I appreciate your help.
Thanks 😊
The answer to your question is: it depends.
Do you have other wall cabinets sitting next to the two 30" high ones you mention?
If not, I would not use the rails at all, since you could let the cabinets be stacked on top of the countertop and just secure them into the wall and to each other. To prevent them from tripping forward.
If they are part of several cabinets and with a pantry cabinet in the setup too, you must use the rails and be thoughtful when you hang those, since you want the pantry to line up at the bottom of the base cabinets.
Check this kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/
Also, in any case, you want the cabinet on the counters to be raised a bit so you can open the door/drawer without hitting the countertop.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you so much for the info. There will be no other cabinets other than a long row of base cabinets and two 30" stacked wall cabinets (to make 60" total) on both the far left and far right. This is for a dining room area. I like your suggestion of just securing them to the wall. As far as raising it a bit, do you have any suggestions on what I could sit it on to raise it a bit?
You're welcome.
Cut a piece of panel for that.
You'll have panels on the side anyway so if you buy two 15x90" panels, there'll be some leftover you can use.
I've just run in to a bit of a dilemma. From the corner of one wall up to the edge of the window over the sink there are 5 studs. When checking to see if the rails were going fit snugly on the walls I discovered a huge bow in the wall at the midlle (3rd) stud... I mean its bad, bad, bad; the distance between the walls at stud 1 and stud 5 is exactly 109 1/4. The distance between the walls where the 3rd stud's at is 108 1/2. What do I do???
Hi Marty. Please shoot me an email with a picture of the issue. I'm not sure I understand.
I have a wall that is out of plumb where the lowers are kicked out abount an inch further than the uppers. Ineed to have the uppers and lowers be even because there will be a fridge panel at the end of the cabinets, any idea how i can get the uppers and lowers to line up?
Thank you for your question.
That is a very common situation.
Well, since you cannot push the movers into the wall, you will have to bump out the upper rail. Either the whole row of uppers or only where the fridge cabinet needs to line up with the lowers. The rail still has to be flat of course so if it's 1" out at one end, and nothing at the other, you must shim in between to keep it flat.
If the uppers were protruding the lowers at a fridge, I sometimes let it, as the big panel (36x96") will protrude the lowers bit I find that acceptable as it will cover more if the fridge.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you for that insight, that makes sense.
So if i set the upper rail an inch off the wall to make it plumb with the rail of the lowers, I'll now need to basically cut custom finish panels for those uppers since the "standard" ones only come extra long not extra wide?
I.e. the 15x42" panels won't work for me anymore because i really need a 16" wide panel now due to the rail being set an in. away from the wall.
@@TheJulius714 That is correct. One problem leads to another. If your fridge is at one end of a row of uppers and the other end needs a panel, I would push it forward where the fridge cabinet needs to line up with the base, and I would leave the other end at the wall and then shim it at each stud to keep the rail (upper) flat. It would be slightly angled in relation to the lower's, but it won't be visible.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you for your help and your videos!!!!
neat tool
I'm glad you like it 😁
4 min video but I can be sure you spent many hours on making the guide - which is excellent. There are many IKEA kitchen channels or videos on YT. But by far the best channel is this one, it's the only one I subscribe to as you really do make the effort to make our kitchen install go well. Thank you so much for Centimetres too. !!!!😃
You're very welcome.
You're right, it was quite a mouthful when I decided to do metro too as the cabinet setup is very different.
I appreciate your feedback 🙏
Love all your videos. Ikea should pay you!! Anyway, I have the same question as a person below. I have an 1-1/8" countertop. I want to use the suspension rail, going to sit a 15" cabinet on the countertop, then a 40" on top of that. So is it 15" from bottom of rail to bottom of rail, then 55" from bottom of lower cabinet rail (or 40" from bottom of 15" cabinet, same difference). The question is the height of the bottom of the rail from the bottom of the rail on the base cabinet (plus a bit so doors can open)? Thanks.
Thanks. Wouldn't that be nice 😀
Cabinets. In your case, I wouldn't use the rail for those two cabinets, unless your countertop is flimsy laminate with fake thickness.
If it is a solid countertop, I would assemble both cabinets (but don't put on the white plastic pieces at the back), cut a piece of 1/2" panel in the with of the cabinets, put it between the counter top and the bottom cabinet, and then stack the 40" on top. I would then connect the two cabinets so they are perfectly flush on both sides and at the front, before I secure them into the wall with the regular brackets but with the black plastic spacer in place. Securing the 40" upper is sufficient since they are attached to each other.
The only reason to attach them to the wall is for them not to tilt forward when the doors are open.
Finally, cut and mount a panel on both sides, running from the top to the counter.
If you really really want to use the rail, do the same as explained before, but leave out the black plastic parts. Put the rail on the 40" cabinet (with the grey clips) before placing the cabinet against the wall. Mark on the wall where the rails sits, remove cabinet and attach the rail to wall and then put both cabinets in place again.
@@kitchensbyrannes WOW! Such a quick reply. I want the rails as I feel more secure and to stop from tipping with weight. Actually putting 36" wide - two - 15" and two - 40" (on top) side-by-side - so I can run a long rail (76"). This way I hit many studs. Should be more secure. Again, I wish Ikea would add you and your videos to all their cabinets. Love the step-by-step and detailed explanations.
Thank you so much for these videos. I am about to embark on my first IKEA kitchen installation and I am sure glad I have you as a resource.
I wonder if you could provide some advice. My project includes a 200 cm fridge cabinet with a 40 cm top cabinet on top of it, which will create a combined 240 cm structure. I am not sure whether I should use hanging rails for both pieces or just one of the two (for instance, connect the two pieces together and then use a hanging rail just for the top one).
Right next to this structure I have to install 100 cm cabinets and my concern is that it will be difficult to line them up at the top. These 100 cm cabinets and the 40 cm top cabinets will be attached to the same rail. However, if I also hang the 200 cm frige cabinet to a lower rail and don't get the rail heights exactly right, my concern is that the 40 cm top cabinets will end up being supported by the 200 cm fridge cabinet below it and not by the rails, whereas the 100 cm cabinets right next to it will be hanging from the rails. This could make it difficult to line them up perfectly. Am I overthinking this?
Your advice would be much appreciated. Thank you
Thank you for your comment and question.
No, you are not overthinking it because if you don't do it right, the cabinets will not line up, as you mentioned.
It is not important to have a rail for the 40 cm cabinet, but since you have the 100 cm next to it, and the cabinets must be flush at the top and front, I would do this:
Hang the rail for the 200 cm cabinet. Then, install the rail for the 40 & 100 cm exactly 40 cm higher up on the wall. It is important that the two rails are horizontal and mounted on the same vertical plane.
Have you checked the guide on this page? kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/
Choose "Centimeters" and then "Ceiling above 248 cm and finally "Base & Stacked Wall+Pantry."
When installing, hang the pantry cabinet first, then the 40 cm (without the plastic spacers at the bottom) and then the 100 cm.
@@kitchensbyrannes thank you so much for your answer, very helpful. I will be installing the kitchen in about 1 month and I am trying to learn as much as possible in advance to make the job easier. I will definitely use your website as a resource.
Since I already know the layout of the kitchen, I am thinking about buying the rails now and installing them on the wall before the kitchen arrives, so I can take all the time I need to make sure they are positioned perfectly. It would be one less thing to worry about when the kitchen gets here.
You're very welcome.
Learning and planning are essential. You'll do great 👍
Best of luck with your project.
I just want to say how grateful i have been that you make and share such helpful videos. Your website is awesome too! Thank you, thank you, thank you! I can not imagine trying to do this without your insights. I just finished building a floating island so I wouldn’t have to put holes in my solid oak kitchen floor! The system you have developed to use ikea products is spot on ! Thank you from the hinterlands of Wyoming, USA
Hi Margery.
Thank you so much for your comment. I'm happy that you find my videos helpful, and receiving messages like this one from you, really energize me to do more.
Thanks again 🙏
I am going to be installing 40" uppers, base, and 90" pantry with a ceiling at 95.5" so this will be very helpful.
Great number, you should have no problems 👍
It's 10:14pm and I"m determined to install these suspension rails TONIGHT. Using your guide. Thank you!!
Excellent, you'll be done before midnight. No problem 👍
And, you're very welcome 🤗
Another excellent and informative video! 👍
Thanks, Michael. It was nice talking with you. Best of luck with the rest of your installation.
Excellent guide - thank you!
You're very welcome.