Well, You are excellent inspiration. After my model A is finished in my avatar I got a complete body of a 1920ish Hupmobile touring that needs all the wood as it's all long gone.
Very satisfying to see the fit when finished. Even if it's nothing I'm currently working on I always learn a little something from your videos. Cheers from the shed
Been watching your videos since you started this project. You're very talented and doing a great job. It would be very cool if you did a 15 coupelet someday. There are hardly any around and it's such a practical body style. Just an idea if you ever get bored. 😂
Very timely, I am just doing the doors on my Riley. With very similar issues, nothing on them is straight, it's all weird curves and twists. My hinges are individual ones, not a single joined piece like yours so I had to get the alignment exactly right. I also bolted them through rather than wood screws. The bottom and rear edge of the Riley doors are wrapped over a metal strip similar to how you have done your door bases. My door frame and all the joints in the car are glued and screwed. The timber is Ash as it is strong and flexible. There are also various metal plates and brackets holding the joints together. My understanding is because everything flexes as you mentioned you need the joints to be strong and it's the timber between the joints that bends and twists. I think a lot of people over do the bracing and try to make things stiffer but the car does need to flex.
@@onewhocollects6781I try to go with what the factory did. Bit easier when building a 'new' car than restoring one. I see a lot built with extra brackets and I suspect people have either done that over the years to fix things that broke or have done it mistakenly thinking the car will be stronger with more brackets completely missing the fact you pointed out that these really old cars have stiff suspension and very flexible chassis/bodies by design. The longer a production run of a car the easier it is to see what the factory got wrong at the start by tracking the improvements they make over the years.
That's a good point. I generally try to stick with the original plans, just because I already know how they will hold up. Whenever I redesign something, I'm never sure how it's going to work until it's finished. @@asciimation
@@onewhocollects6781 Yes, that's my thinking exactly. The factory generally knew what they were doing. I find when I do try modifying something, I then need to modify something else then modifying yet another thing and before you know it you've redesigned half the car!
Ashwood, that's interesting. I was assuming that I would use White Oak, assuming Henry had too, to help to protect the open cars from rot. White Oak is used in boats because it doesn't absorb water. But Ashwood is plentiful, standing dead in woodblots
Watching you construct the wood frame for the door ----- makes one wonder about those days of building a Model T ------ And you would think that those nails you used ---- spiral ---- would have been the ones used back then ----- to ----- HOLD ---- it all together. ------ Speaking of that ----- you did such a nice job figuring out the curvature of the wood ----- I have a Chair that I will send you for new legs ------- With all the work in figuring out the shape ------ did you trace those pieces out onto some cardboard for future doors ------ you ---- WILL BE ---- making ----- put a little nail on the wall and hang them up --- Label ----- Front Door -- Back Door --- Top -- Bottom ----- You'll have them for the next one -------- Will come in handy ------ if not for you ----- for the one that steps into your foot steps and continues the ---- Resurrection of Model T's ----- Thank You for the video ------ Have a Good Week --- Rodney
Thank you very much. Yes, I have been making patterns of it. I have also made patterns and plans over the years on other Model T bodies just in case of future projects.
I like the idea of assembling things with easier to drive modern screws, then replacing them with slotted screws one at a time after the assembly has set up. Would the nuts on the door hinge bolts be square, rather than hex nuts? I suppose it doesn't matter, they'll be hidden by the inner door cards. Ford became aware of the weakness of the 1913 touring car rear sills and fitted metal reinforcing plates later in production to beef up that area.
Yeah, I also do that trick with more rare/expensive hardware to keep from damaging them. I think they used hex nuts on the doors originally, but I'm not sure.
I had that same question. I replaced much of the nuts on my existing torpedo firewall, with square nuts, when I acquired someone's entire collection. I had no idea if I was being period-correct.
I really like this series and build. Good job!! I was wondering about an update for the Model T truck transmission problem and what you decided to do? Can you find parts?
I have acquired a 1927 Canadian Runabout body, like yours (with both doors), that should be delivered in about 2 weeks. I'm looking forward to your tips and tricks. This is going to be epic !! Does anyone make a pattern or blueprint for the wood frame, as an implied starting point ? It sounds like you're hand filing these nails. A right angle die grinder might speed up this process.
Cool. I don't know of anyone making patterns, bot some companies sell the finished wood ready to use. I chose to make it myself anyway to save money. Have fun with that!
I’m not thinking that my comment got sent through. Give me a shout. I’d like to talk to you about the model T truck I have and maybe compare it back-and-forth to yours
Well, You are excellent inspiration.
After my model A is finished in my avatar I got a complete body of a 1920ish Hupmobile touring that needs all the wood as it's all long gone.
There's a Hupmobile at the Model T Museum on Piquette Avenue in Detroit.
I love Hupmobiles😁👍
What a great project !!
Beautiful craftsmanship! Thanks for sharing this!
Good work
Wood butchering aint easy. Seems much less forgiving than metal work. Great series on this car. Thoroughly enjoying.
Such attention to detail !
You are a true craftsman 😊
Mi felicitación a un verdadero artista. Así habrá una restauración que durará otros 100 años..gra cías por enseñarnos a trabajar bien.
Very satisfying to see the fit when finished. Even if it's nothing I'm currently working on I always learn a little something from your videos. Cheers from the shed
Thank you very much. Yep, it's satisfying for me too.
Nice job. Thanks.
Thank you for this interesting, outstanding video. I really enjoy these videos you produce of a time gone by, that we need to remember.
Thank you very much.
Thanks Straight Ahead ✌😎
Excellent fabricating work!!
Great progress!
Excellent job! It is more difficult then you show. I love your interest to detail. I can't wait for the next Video.
Thank you very much.
good job.
Muy bueno
Been watching your videos since you started this project. You're very talented and doing a great job. It would be very cool if you did a 15 coupelet someday. There are hardly any around and it's such a practical body style. Just an idea if you ever get bored. 😂
Thank you very much. Funny thing, I've seen parts of them around before and thought about building one. No promises though.
I'm only one minute in the video and thumbs up already👍 👍
See the notification, begin with a thumbs up🤣👍
Very timely, I am just doing the doors on my Riley. With very similar issues, nothing on them is straight, it's all weird curves and twists. My hinges are individual ones, not a single joined piece like yours so I had to get the alignment exactly right. I also bolted them through rather than wood screws. The bottom and rear edge of the Riley doors are wrapped over a metal strip similar to how you have done your door bases. My door frame and all the joints in the car are glued and screwed. The timber is Ash as it is strong and flexible. There are also various metal plates and brackets holding the joints together. My understanding is because everything flexes as you mentioned you need the joints to be strong and it's the timber between the joints that bends and twists. I think a lot of people over do the bracing and try to make things stiffer but the car does need to flex.
Interesting. I know some of the more expensive cars used more metal bracing, especially around the late 1910's- 1920's.
@@onewhocollects6781I try to go with what the factory did. Bit easier when building a 'new' car than restoring one. I see a lot built with extra brackets and I suspect people have either done that over the years to fix things that broke or have done it mistakenly thinking the car will be stronger with more brackets completely missing the fact you pointed out that these really old cars have stiff suspension and very flexible chassis/bodies by design. The longer a production run of a car the easier it is to see what the factory got wrong at the start by tracking the improvements they make over the years.
That's a good point. I generally try to stick with the original plans, just because I already know how they will hold up. Whenever I redesign something, I'm never sure how it's going to work until it's finished. @@asciimation
@@onewhocollects6781 Yes, that's my thinking exactly. The factory generally knew what they were doing. I find when I do try modifying something, I then need to modify something else then modifying yet another thing and before you know it you've redesigned half the car!
Ashwood, that's interesting.
I was assuming that I would use White Oak, assuming Henry had too, to help to protect the open cars from rot.
White Oak is used in boats because it doesn't absorb water.
But Ashwood is plentiful, standing dead in woodblots
Watching you construct the wood frame for the door ----- makes one wonder about those days of building a Model T ------ And you would think that those nails you used ---- spiral ---- would have been the ones used back then ----- to ----- HOLD ---- it all together. ------ Speaking of that ----- you did such a nice job figuring out the curvature of the wood ----- I have a Chair that I will send you for new legs ------- With all the work in figuring out the shape ------ did you trace those pieces out onto some cardboard for future doors ------ you ---- WILL BE ---- making ----- put a little nail on the wall and hang them up --- Label ----- Front Door -- Back Door --- Top -- Bottom ----- You'll have them for the next one -------- Will come in handy ------ if not for you ----- for the one that steps into your foot steps and continues the ---- Resurrection of Model T's ----- Thank You for the video ------ Have a Good Week --- Rodney
Thank you very much. Yes, I have been making patterns of it. I have also made patterns and plans over the years on other Model T bodies just in case of future projects.
I was hoping you did ---- that's good ------ Now for that young one that will follow in your footsteps ------ See you on your next one ----- Rodney
@@onewhocollects6781 Amazing, based upon your fine woodwork, I was just going to suggest that maybe you were a pattern maker...
I'm certain you've spent way more time than Henry's guys did on the original.
I like the idea of assembling things with easier to drive modern screws, then replacing them with slotted screws one at a time after the assembly has set up. Would the nuts on the door hinge bolts be square, rather than hex nuts? I suppose it doesn't matter, they'll be hidden by the inner door cards. Ford became aware of the weakness of the 1913 touring car rear sills and fitted metal reinforcing plates later in production to beef up that area.
Yeah, I also do that trick with more rare/expensive hardware to keep from damaging them. I think they used hex nuts on the doors originally, but I'm not sure.
I had that same question.
I replaced much of the nuts on my existing torpedo firewall, with square nuts, when I acquired someone's entire collection.
I had no idea if I was being period-correct.
Great job! When will we hear from you again?
Thank you. Don't worry, more videos are being made right now.
I really like this series and build. Good job!! I was wondering about an update for the Model T truck transmission problem and what you decided to do? Can you find parts?
I have acquired a 1927 Canadian Runabout body, like yours (with both doors), that should be delivered in about 2 weeks.
I'm looking forward to your tips and tricks.
This is going to be epic !!
Does anyone make a pattern or blueprint for the wood frame, as an implied starting point ?
It sounds like you're hand filing these nails.
A right angle die grinder might speed up this process.
Cool. I don't know of anyone making patterns, bot some companies sell the finished wood ready to use. I chose to make it myself anyway to save money. Have fun with that!
Part 13? I should have subscribed earlier, I’ve missed 1-12….
I’m not thinking that my comment got sent through.
Give me a shout. I’d like to talk to you about the model T truck I have and maybe compare it back-and-forth to yours
Okay. What questions do you have?
Philip head screws?