I've been tearing down my 97 7.3 the last 3 weeks, doing camshaft ,bearings, piston rings, injectors, head rebuilds and a ton more. Already rebuilt my turbo that blew apart with the kc balanced assembly, hoping to have mine back together within the next month lol only have a few hours a week to do stuff so moving slowly for me too. Looking forward to seeing more of your videos, I've been waiting for new uploads!!!!
There is so much do you to check, see if whoever decked your heads went to far. Your going to keep having problems if head thickness is below minimum. Also did they put new seats in or did they just keep cutting on the head to get valve recession where they wanted it? I’m just throwing all of this out here because I don’t believe it’s spring pressure where it went wrong. You are not running that much boost think about it , your exhaust valve are touching not that it can’t be drive pressure but most like your valve installed height is incorrect. Spend your time on the heads you can totally do this bro I know you can.
Did you deck your block and surface your heads on the previous build. If so your pushrods are probably too long if you did not account for this and putting too much pressure on the lifters.
@ecleveland1 - Mate, I hear you on this one. I’m about to do similar upgrade in the future and have been asking questions about how to set the correct pushrod length when decking block and or heads. I think this is beeing overlooked by many- hence the many piston to valve contacts I’ve been reading about. Also, the correct way to shim the valve springs correctly in terms of coil binding and rocker arm movement. I have noticed Steve Morris in his ‘’Steve-tech’’ talk about rocker arm geometry and its importance when doing a valve job I would love having a tech savy dude explain and go trough the correct way of shimming the valve springs and setting the correct pushrod length on the mighty seven3. Blessings from Norway, Helge
Been enjoyin ur build wonder when u'll be back. Lookin at doin a build on my 7.3 too. Tho its a 1992 idi, lookin at doin 320-380 possibly 400hp build. The 7.3 idi is rated at 185hp but seen a dyno video where it stock maxed at 143hp. I'm lookin at hopefully 700-830 torque. From what R&D idi has found out u can machine 7.3 psd forged rods to fit in an idi
@@The73Garage Thank for your replay - trilled to hear about your engine. Also - hope you will make and video and address what caused the failure. All the best, Helge
Do it your self bro you got it. Pull the cam and take all the lifters out. The piston smacking the valves is what is causing this. I would get valve reliefs cut in the pistons now or if you want to do it on the cheap throw a thicker head gasket on it. Don’t worry about your compression ratio it’s not going to effect your quench to a point of you even noticing. Shit we live in Florida cold starts is not something we care about and honestly with the boost your running you will only be helping yourself if you lower compression anyways. You want help with pumping loss do both if you can, valve reliefs and thicker gasket
I think that’s what I’m going to do. I think my push rods were too long. Block and heads were decked(not sure how much material was taken off). I believe the pre-load was insane on the lifters, I have 160lbs of seat pressure with my beehives at an installed height of 1.80”
@@The73Garage That is also something to check. Check your cam card and read overall lift on your rocker arms with a dial indicator. Obviously you have to check piston to valve clearance but your 160lbs of seat pressure although high should be ok with those lifters and cam. You truly believe the lifter came apart because the valve is hitting the piston. Now if you have lifters that are broke on cylinders that pistons haven’t kissed the valves then maybe you go a different direction. I don’t remember what cam you have but I know of 2 7.3s in my lifetime that had a supposed drop in colt cam and they both started hitting valves one of them cracked a valve the other bent the pushrod. Both cases it ended up being piston to valve clearance because of incorrect deck height because of milling the head’s multiple times. That causes pushrod length to be incorrect when it is the right pushrod to use.sorry for the blah blah just hoping you make it happen I love that truck I don’t live far from you and see it often.
Also as deck height goes down valve installed height changes and spring tensioning gets weaker unless you shim it which I think you did so pushrod length is starting to sound like the felony.
Wow that is terrible. Lifters are still avail from Ford at least. Id be leary putting that thing back together with that Camshaft without checking piston to valve. I dont think you floated Beehives at that low of boost without compounds or N2o.
cannot see roller issue, , camera needs to stay still, and something to point at the issue otherwise, you just talking about, not showing us the issue thanks fior the vid
I hate to say it but factory parts be running forever and these' do better parts can't make it around the block ??? Maybe research it in what is proven and what ain't.... well you proven some of what ain't
WHERE YOU AT MAN!!!? Hope all is well! Just so you know we miss your videos. Look forward to seeing how the 7.3 is doing.
Apologize for the radio silence! I’m working on things behind the scenes, I’ll be back! Things are moving, just very slowly lol
Nice to see father and son working on 7.3 together 👍
I love it!
I've been tearing down my 97 7.3 the last 3 weeks, doing camshaft ,bearings, piston rings, injectors, head rebuilds and a ton more. Already rebuilt my turbo that blew apart with the kc balanced assembly, hoping to have mine back together within the next month lol only have a few hours a week to do stuff so moving slowly for me too. Looking forward to seeing more of your videos, I've been waiting for new uploads!!!!
Sounds like a solid build! I’m looking forward to it as well, been too long.
There is so much do you to check, see if whoever decked your heads went to far. Your going to keep having problems if head thickness is below minimum. Also did they put new seats in or did they just keep cutting on the head to get valve recession where they wanted it? I’m just throwing all of this out here because I don’t believe it’s spring pressure where it went wrong. You are not running that much boost think about it , your exhaust valve are touching not that it can’t be drive pressure but most like your valve installed height is incorrect. Spend your time on the heads you can totally do this bro I know you can.
Agreed. Take the heads to a machine shop that knows how to check the overall thickness.
Did you deck your block and surface your heads on the previous build. If so your pushrods are probably too long if you did not account for this and putting too much pressure on the lifters.
@ecleveland1 - Mate, I hear you on this one.
I’m about to do similar upgrade in the future and have been asking questions about how to set the correct pushrod length when decking block and or heads. I think this is beeing overlooked by many- hence the many piston to valve contacts I’ve been reading about.
Also, the correct way to shim the valve springs correctly in terms of coil binding and rocker arm movement. I have noticed Steve Morris in his ‘’Steve-tech’’ talk about rocker arm geometry and its importance when doing a valve job
I would love having a tech savy dude explain and go trough the correct way of shimming the valve springs and setting the correct pushrod length on the mighty seven3.
Blessings from Norway,
Helge
Man that awesome you get to work on your truck with your dad, I'm jealous! What do you think caused the lifter to do that?
I think I have too long of a push rod. I believe the preload on the lifter was super high. I have 160lbs on the valve seat.
Been enjoyin ur build wonder when u'll be back. Lookin at doin a build on my 7.3 too. Tho its a 1992 idi, lookin at doin 320-380 possibly 400hp build. The 7.3 idi is rated at 185hp but seen a dyno video where it stock maxed at 143hp. I'm lookin at hopefully 700-830 torque. From what R&D idi has found out u can machine 7.3 psd forged rods to fit in an idi
Been waiting for the update videos hope all is well.
It’s coming!
When is the update video coming out?
Curious of what your set up was when this happen, why you think this happened…. I’m running a similar set up
Why is there so much oil coming form those cylinders?
You think motor keeps blowing cause you don’t daily it ????? Diesel motors meant to be driven. Just asking a question
Mate - you are missed!. Time is running by and I hope you haven’t changed plan on getting the engine fixed.
Blessings from Norway,
Helge
Greetings! Engine should be back this month from the machine shop, hoping to get the engine back in next month!
@@The73Garage Thank for your replay - trilled to hear about your engine. Also - hope you will make and video and address what caused the failure.
All the best,
Helge
Where do you recommend if I’m trying to buy a 7.3 rebuild engine
I would plasti guage the affected bearings for the crank and connecting rods....
So a bad set if lifters basically? New failed parts?
Ended up being more than that, I’ll be posting a video with more of an explanation soon!
Do it your self bro you got it. Pull the cam and take all the lifters out. The piston smacking the valves is what is causing this. I would get valve reliefs cut in the pistons now or if you want to do it on the cheap throw a thicker head gasket on it. Don’t worry about your compression ratio it’s not going to effect your quench to a point of you even noticing. Shit we live in Florida cold starts is not something we care about and honestly with the boost your running you will only be helping yourself if you lower compression anyways. You want help with pumping loss do both if you can, valve reliefs and thicker gasket
I think that’s what I’m going to do. I think my push rods were too long. Block and heads were decked(not sure how much material was taken off). I believe the pre-load was insane on the lifters, I have 160lbs of seat pressure with my beehives at an installed height of 1.80”
@@The73Garage That is also something to check. Check your cam card and read overall lift on your rocker arms with a dial indicator. Obviously you have to check piston to valve clearance but your 160lbs of seat pressure although high should be ok with those lifters and cam. You truly believe the lifter came apart because the valve is hitting the piston. Now if you have lifters that are broke on cylinders that pistons haven’t kissed the valves then maybe you go a different direction. I don’t remember what cam you have but I know of 2 7.3s in my lifetime that had a supposed drop in colt cam and they both started hitting valves one of them cracked a valve the other bent the pushrod. Both cases it ended up being piston to valve clearance because of incorrect deck height because of milling the head’s multiple times. That causes pushrod length to be incorrect when it is the right pushrod to use.sorry for the blah blah just hoping you make it happen I love that truck I don’t live far from you and see it often.
Also as deck height goes down valve installed height changes and spring tensioning gets weaker unless you shim it which I think you did so pushrod length is starting to sound like the felony.
@@jameshaskell6572 all of that will be checked, nice! Didn’t know you were local to me!
Any updates on the engine?
They should be starting on it at the end of February!
Any updates?
I’ll be doing a video this week with the new engine, working on cleaning up some parts and trying to remember where everything goes!
update?
Working on a new block now, still making some decisions!
Wow that is terrible. Lifters are still avail from Ford at least. Id be leary putting that thing back together with that Camshaft without checking piston to valve. I dont think you floated Beehives at that low of boost without compounds or N2o.
cannot see roller issue, , camera needs to stay still, and something to point at the issue otherwise, you just talking about, not showing us the issue thanks fior the vid
I hate to say it but factory parts be running forever and these' do better parts can't make it around the block ???
Maybe research it in what is proven and what ain't.... well you proven some of what ain't
WHERE U AT MAN? Been over a yr
Engine is back this week, new video coming soon!
Update?
Engine should be back from Kill Devil Diesel this month!