KTM DDS Clutch Inspection & Replacement
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Correction- At 23:05 I discuss the belleville spring tensioner, but my description of the positions is the wrong way round. Position #1 will apply the most pressure and #3 the least pressure. Thanks to WTC for pointing this out...
Shows how to inspect KTM DDS clutch and replace the inner hub dampers and clutch plates.
2017 KTM 250EXC
KTM Clutch Kit Part # 54832011110
Tokyo Offroad Oil Drain Tool: www.tokyooffroa...
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Very good instructor!
Probably the best how-to videos in UA-cam as far as KTM goes. Slavens Racing is good, but I think Tokyo Offroad has him beat. Excellent, your best video to date.
well done, 3 of my dampers were broken in two. the other 3 were spread out, lots of play. easy fix.
piuteben what does the bike do when those dampers need to be replaced?
Damn boy! you are seriously detailed! You are the kind of person that would be working on my factory edition 450sxf. Good Stuff!
Excellent video. If I done this I could follow your video the first time and breeze through the job
Great tutorial, it guided me through the process. Thank you 👍🏾
Pleased to hear it helped...
Nice vid I liked your cardboard template for the bolts ,I have 2 x 2007 450 sxf engines which we retrofitted the dds clutch into ,I really like this clutch over the earlier conventional spring clutch .cheersd
Very well explained all along, with specs and tricks.
Hi Mark! how are you? nice video! which are the possible failures or problems if your dampers needs replacements on the hub?? you show the hub has some play...what can happen if that occurs?
The rubber dampers are there to reduce shock between the transmission and crankshaft. The rubbers will slowly degrade over time, resulting in progressively more play. So long as the dampers have not totally broken up it shouldn't cause a real issue. Of course it's best to replace the rubbers periodically, before they break down.
For the 1, 2, or 3 setting on the spring, is this adjusted by the factory for a specific bike, or can you change the setting based on preference? Such as using a lighter setting if you don't demand as much instant torque?
I have the same question.
Hello Tokyo Offroad
I have a Husqvarna 300 te 2017 . I am having a rough time with my clutch. It drags. I need to pull the lever all the way to the handlebar to disengage the clutch. And the bike keeps stalling all the time. It is worst in steep descents.
I bought the bike used and I think the previous owner had a rekluse on it and took it off before selling the bike.
I read on a dirt bike forum that the bellevile spring could solve the problem.
And I quote :
Posted January 6, 2017
"I had a horrible clutch dragging problem on my '14, the would stall with the lever pulled tight to your fingers. You could even dig a hole into the ground if you gave it gas. It essentially started engaging from just off the bars. The problem I noticed was that the pressure plate wouldn't lift evenly as the spring seemed to apply uneven pressure. I bought a new bellevile spring and bumped up the pretension it fixed the issue so that I can disengage the clutch with one finger and don't have to take all my fingers off the grip. If I remember correctly there is 3 different settings based on how you align the ring through which the bolts go.
"
Do you know something about it?
Is it possible to fix it with bellevile tensioner ? Position 1 maybe?
I would love to receive your comments on it.
Thank you very much
Ricardo Cuetara - My recommendation is to first change the clutch hydraulic fluid and ensure it is fully bled. Is the clutch slave the stock KTM one, or Rekluse? Also is the clutch lever stock? If possible return everything to stock and test. Once you’ve done that check to see if the clutch action is the same, or improved. If it’s still not right take lean the bike over to the left, remove the clutch cover and observe how the clutch moves when you pull the lever in. If you don’t see anything obviously wrong dissemble it and inspect the clutch. It should be exactly the same as the clutch in my bike, so you can compare the metal plate thickness dimensions to those noted in the video. Look out for warped and overheated plates. If replacing the clutch I highly recommend using a KTM OEM kit to avoid issue and ensure a long life.
@@TokyoOffroad
Thank you very much for the advice!!
I already changed the clutch hydraulic fluid. The clutch slave and the lever are stock KTM. I am going to proceed to remove the clutch cover and inspect the bike. The bike has a total of 50 hours on it. I would think the plates are in good condition.
It is great to have your videos on how to. More so because I have pretty much the same components. Thank you Tokyo and please keep them coming.
I will keep you inform on the outcome.
Cheers
Ricardo Cuetara have you solved that issue? I have the exact problem with dragging and i'm desperate now.
Nice explained ! But still rubber for the damping ? My BSA from 1968 had also rubber dampers , and on 4000km they must be replaced ! Nothing has changed !
excellent video. thanks for posting.
i checked my spec on the belville spring it was around 0.35mm so out of spec, i have pulled the clutch apart to replace but the clutch plate thickness is basically identical to the brand new set ! , maybe i just need to change the belville spring to get the correct tension back onto the plates ?
Thank you for video...
Advise Please! My KTM 2018 xc-w clutch drags with the clutch lever fully pulled in to a point that if you lock up the rear it sometimes kills the engine. Thanks for all your videos. Peter
Has it always dragged? If not, the cause is probably air in your clutch hose (replace the fluid and bleed), or the clutch master seal needs replacing.
Another excellent video. My 2018 clutch seemed to be dragging, will adjusting the Bellville spring from II to I help? Next mod I'll be following is your idles screw video. Thanks
Clutch drag is common when the engine is cold. Does it still drag badly when warm? If so make sure that you're using the recommend oil grade and also not over-filling. If drag changed recently and became bad then it's probably air in the system (try bleeding), or the master, or slave needs rebuilding.
@@TokyoOffroad Appreciate your reply, thank you. Yes, using oil as per manual. Will double check I haven't over filled but it had a slight drag since new. My idle seems low and I haven't adjusted the bypass screw which can cause to stall on occasions when warm. Can I do harm if I adjust the Bellville from II to I? I'm yet to bleed the clutch. Thanks
Hello, I have such a problem with a ktm exc 300. The motorcycle is new, only 7.5 hours old. The problem is that after depressing the clutch and putting it into 1st gear, the motorcycle cannot be moved. He feels like he's on gear. Also, when you start the motorcycle with the clutch depressed, the motorcycle jumps forward immediately.
Once the engine is warm does it improve? Having more clutch drag is typical when the bike is cold is typical. But it shouldn't have so much that the bike can't idle when the clutch is pulled in. Have you tried adjusting the clutch lever adjuster screw at the clutch master? This will change the position of the clutch lever from the handlebar. Try screwing in (clockwise) the adjuster to increase the lever position from the handlebar and see if that improves the drag sufficiently to allow for normal riding. If it's still no good you may have air in the clutch line and if so will require bleeding. ua-cam.com/video/6OnQmWnDFvA/v-deo.html
@@TokyoOffroad Shame on me. I asked your advice and checked it on another motorcycle with a cold engine. It's like you said that the clutch has some resistance. Although for some reason it seemed to me that after pressing the clutch it should be as if on free gear. Thank you for the advice. Your video is very informative. Thank YOU.
Great videos, keep them coming.
Another great video, Mark! Might I ask where you purchased your service manual? I would really like to get one for my 17' 250 XC-W. Cheers
Colin Trevor - I purchased the Service Manual (DVD) from my local KTM dealer
I didn’t consider the “S” marking just as I didn’t notice the 2 x 1.3mm plates. Now I have a bad feeling :) (even though I didn’t have any issue in 60 hrs after the clutch change...
There is a webpage with all pdf manuals (for current models the guy asks for 10 usd donation)
Mikhail witch site?
Those shavings. They come from transmission ?
I have a lot more fine shavings on my sxf350 . Oil filter and screen are clean though
I don’t have any shavings as such. If you do they’re probably from the transmission. The best advice I can give is to use decent quality oil and change it regularly.
Are the metal plates marked with their respective thickness or do you measure them all before fitting?
There are no markings on the plates. You need to measure them with calipers…
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks! Good to know.
Very very good to learn , thank you;)
How do you know all these small details? I have owners manual and even bought repair manual as well but there is no information about direction of plate "S" and other plates with sharp edges up etc. etc.
I noted the "s" plate orientation when I took it off the bike (s side was facing the basket. But I don't think the orienation of the "s" plate really matters as it doesn't move in the basket. All the other plates do move so the orientation is more important. The theory behind the plate orientation is that the sharp edge direction will be a little more difficult to move, so it's better to have the sharp edge out so it's acting against the hydraulic pressure when you force the plates apart, and there's a little less drag when you release the clutch and the plates are forced together by the bellville spring.
fantastic vid is it the same on 500 4t?
Yes, the 500 4T also uses a DDS clutch so the replacement method is the same. However, the required clutch kit part number is different, so be sure to look up your year model when ordering.
Thank you! Do you know if the basket is supposed to have a little back and forth play? How would you check if the parts behind it need replacing? Also, i heard that since the dds, the clutch doesn't work properly until the oil is warmed up. Unless I warm mine up for 5-10 min, putting it in 1st just stalls the bike.
Yes, it's very usual to have some clutch drag when the transmission oil is still cold. I always cold start my bike in neutral, then once it's warmed up have no problem starting it in gear.
Regarding basket back and forth play, are you talking about the inner, or outer baskets? The inner basket is connected to the transmission and the outer basket is connected to the engine. Excessive play could be due to worn out bearings, or transmission wear. This should only occur after a high number of hours.
Tokyo Offroad Thank you for the reply, it is the outer basket, just a little back and forth like the gear's motion, not side to side. The bike has 300 hrs.
crs2crs2 - That sounds normal. Unless you’re having problems shifting, jumping out of gear, false neutrals etc I wouldn’t worry about it. For a high hour bike (500H+), when it comes time to replace/rebuild the crank it would be good to replace all the bearing in the transmission and inspect the transmission for issues.
None of the problems you mentioned, so good news. Thank you!
why do you loctite the nut when there is a locking tab washer just curious?
It makes it even more secure and less likely to work loose during use. My recommendation regarding torque and threadlock is to follow what's specified in the service manual for your model. The details shown in this video are specific to my 2017 KTM 250 EXC.
Great tip on using the cardboard to keep track of which nut goes where, but I ran into a problem when replacing the stock with a Hinson cover. On the 18's or maybe part of a running change, instead of using a 55mm bolt for that one spot, they made the cover thicker there to act as a washer and use all 60mm bolts. Hinson didn't update the cover so my dumbass ran the bolt until it hit the starter and cracked the cover. Now it's bound up (even with the bolt backed out) and won't turn over.
Any ideas for freeing it up or will I need to replace parts of the starter?
Sorry to hear about the issue. My advice is to take the starter motor out, inspect it and figure out if the damage is something you can fix, or whether a new starter motor is required.
Thanks, went ahead and ordered the replacement, but will try to repair the old one and keep as a spare. Now i'm just trying to figure out how much of the motor I need to take apart to get it. I think I can just unbolt the engine from the mounts to get at the starter cover and the starter bolts on the clutch side, then hopefully be able to get the bendix off and the the screw that holds the starter on on the other side just by removing the alternator cover and not have to take the rotor off.
What was the tool that was used to bend the lock nut after the screw driver I live in the us and never seen one?
Knipex pliers wrench. The size used in the video was 300mm (12"), part number 8603300. Really nice tool and very handy.
@@TokyoOffroad thanks
What did the new fiber discs measure?
New OEM fiber thickness is 2.00mm
@@TokyoOffroad thank you for the reply! Good to know to be able it to compare.
Can you pass me de tecnik manual please I have the same motorbikr
I purchased my repair manual (DVD version) from my KTM dealer.
Channel is called Tokyo but you ride Austrian
Channel is called Tokyo because I live in Tokyo.
loctite useless when u already locked the nut with metal :)
And yet another great video going into my "KTM maintenance" folder...Excellent.
some of the best instructional videos going cheers Tokyo Off Road👍
Just amazing. Thank you for sharing.
thanks for the good video! i need to do this today to my 300 tpi :)
Your TPI clutch should be exactly the same as the 2017 clutch shown in the video. Hope it overhaul goes well...
Wish our bike technicians took such care, one thing, my 2008 300xcw had over a 1000hrs on, never changed the clutch, my 2014 also sold with 360hrs no clutch issues, both bikes ridden on rough terrain with loads of clutch slipping and my 120 kg ass😂😂😂👊👊
The best instructional videos for maintaining a KTM. Great job!
Have you ever went to the point where the clutch started to slip ? Im just changing mine and will put in new rubbers from Recluse too. It has 265 hrs on it and still feels good, maybee a slight more drag than new. Im riding tecknical enduro and slip it a lot.
Personally I've had extremely good experience with the KTM OEM clutches and never had any slipping issues. I currently use the Recluse dampers as others have said they last longer. The clutch pack, fibers and steels, I don't know of anything better than OEM.
@ minute 20:36
I've got the same kit for my Husaberg 2013 Te 300.
I've measured the metal disks and found:
4 disks with 1.3~1.34 mm and only 3 with 1.4mm. I wonder if that's just a fabrication variation.
I've mounted the internal 1mm with the "S" mark as you mentioned, then 2x 1.3mm, then 3x 1.4mm in the middle, the other 2x 1.3mm and the top 1mm disk.
Tested the bike this weekend and worked just fine.
Great channel, great videos! Best regards from Brazil!
i like how u work, really nice
I did my first top end rebuild watching your videos and now I’ll be attempting my first clutch rebuild watching your videos! Thank you for the time and effort you put into these!
Pleased to hear that you are finding the videos helpful...
Love your no-nonsense instructional videos! Best I've found for my KTM.
Thanks! Pleased to hear that you enjoy the videos
Thank you. This video increased my confidence. And I must say, WOW what a difference the new ones made. I just bought a ‘21 sxf 450 and had heard about this maintenance item so I ordered the Rekluse set figuring it may be due. So much smoother, quieter and best of all, no more chain slap rolling through the pits!! The chain slapping around was ridiculous.
I didn’t pay any attention to the difference in steel plates thickness when I replaced mine, seems to be working. What happens if the steels are in wrong order (thickness wise)?
Replaced my clutchpack today using the detailed procedure here. The info about checking the spring plate flatness primed me for when I discovered it was concave with the new plates, and I immediately knew what to do to rectify it. Spot on! Excellent video. (Also a member of Kansai Riders)
Thanks! Pleased to hear that you found the video useful.
What is the concern with the discolouration? Worried about it becoming brittle or warping? Looking at mine and likely coming up on needing to change the clutch pack. Great informative video!
David Thegan - Things to check for are heavy discoloration, hot spots and warpage. Discoloration indicates the plates got very hot. When I changed my clutch in the video it still worked fine and the fiber plates were still in spec. But due to the hours I thought it would be best to change the clutch pack anyway as I don’t want to have issues while riding.
Outstanding! Thank you!
Thanks a million. All worked out perfectly. Appreciate the attention to detail. Even going make a tool from the old clutch plate...👍🙏
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful. The old clutch plate holder tool works really well so I can recommend making one...
Thanks for the video. I never did that style of clutch before and I just bought a 2018ktm xcw 6 days. So the clutch design is very different than my 2008 KTM 200 Xcw.
Very great video, when I inspect my clutch pad, it's still more than 1.9mm, but it weared somehow forsure, should I move the bolt from position 2 to position 3? I think the clutch disk get thiner, thus the spring preload might get ligher in the same position. Am I correct?
Just done this :) great help thanks, on this 250tpi 2018, one of the dampers had actually broken and worn right down uneven on one side!!
Learned quite a lot. Very concise and easy to follow. 🎯
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful
Great video. Just one question. Should the clutch throw out shaft have a rounded end on the clutch side ?
Awesome video - when I am going to change my clutch (which is soon), this will be my guide :-) Thank you.
Excelente video! Muy claro y útil. Gracias por compartirlo.
Un saludo desde Argentina!!!
I figured out what "top" means on the 'washer", it means top side out, the top side is in contact with the DDS spring.
Yes, that's correct
When you talk about the sharp edge and the smooth edge of the steels, if you get one wrong, what would happen? I know I got my "s" plate in and faced correctly but am not 100% on my steel plate placement. After I replaced my clutch dampers and re-assembled, the clutch is working great. Is it worth inspecting again? Thanks!
If the steel plates are reversed you might experience slightly worse initial engagement after releasing the clutch (plates might stick a little). In most cases there may be no noticeable difference, but it's still good practice to orientate the steel plates with the sharp edges out.
I have roughly 2,3mm play in my clutch slightly forward and slightly backwards before the crank it’s self moves. Is that normal ?
The bike is also very rough when engaging gear
Hope that makes sense ^
Yes, the travel sounds normal. With the engine warm, pull the clutch in, put it in gear, does the bike creep forward? If it does try adjusting the lever position out, away from the bars using the position adjuster on the lever. If you still have an excessive amount of drag, even with the lever position adjusted out, something is wrong.
Great video as always - used it to inspect and change my first clutch on my '16 300XC.
Interesting that although my metal discs measured 1.0mm on the inside and outside, the four discs (going inside to outside of the bike) after the "S" disc measured 1.3mm, and the remaining four discs measured 1.4mm.
My bike has less than 75 hours on it, but it has started slipping suddenly. The friction plates look good and appear to have little wear. The middle-metal plates are hued purple, and most of them show somewhat heavy wear marks. Sliding aside the rubber boot next to the clutch master cylinder, I noticed either corrosion or dried fluid.
Any idea which of these could be responsible for the slippage?
If the metal plates have become very hot (you mentioned they have become hued purple) they can distort and become prone to slipping. The other thing to check is the belleville spring is flat across the face as shown in the video and tensioned correctly.
How important is the 648 loctite with it having a locking washer? Can't find that stuff anywhere! @tokyooffroad
In this application I definitely don't want any issues so I choose to follow the KTM recommendation and use 648. But I do agree that due to the lock washer it makes it unlikely that you'd have an issue even if you used other threadlockers.
Don't have any mechanical skills to work on your own bike? Just buy whatever bike Tokyo Offroad has so you can watch all the fantastic how to videos!
Hello, you dont know, but you helped me a LOT. I was wondering if you know what is the difference with starting plate marked with S and the last one, both 1mm but different part number. Thanks
Greetings from Slovenia
Great video! Which setting (1,2,or3) on the Belleville spring makes the clutch pull the lightest?
From 23:00 ua-cam.com/video/BeFNKS9Su1o/v-deo.html I explain the tensioner positions (Position 1= Less pressure (easiest clutch pull); Position 3= Most pressure (heavier clutch pull)). This information is correct for my 2017, but positions may be reversed on other models so best to check for your model...
28:24 "800 millimeters of gearbox oil" hehe
Good stuff broda 👌
Pleased to hear that you enjoyed the video
My kit had 3 metal plates, too. But not in the same quantity as yours. I put my thickest plates in the middle, as my worn pack was the worst there. More metal = more heat capacity, I figure. So they're setup as 1.0-1.3-1.3-1.4-1.4-1.4-1.3.-1.3-1.0.
Did it work? I have the same problem as you and im gonna do the same thing
@@kallehelminen7196 yes
Im thinking about doing this with my own 500 exc 2016 with your video as a guide. If my plates is not the same thickness as yours, should i just go from thin to thick? Lovely video btw!
Interesting my OEM kit for my 2017 TE250 came with One 1.0mm S, Three 1.3mm, Three 1.4mm, and one 1.0mm. I wonder if they have updated the pack since you made this video. Measured with calipers and clearly shown different then your video
Hi how do i flatt the spring?
I torqe a d change numbers
No change i have gap
It you have a gap you will need to change the position of the ring to position 1, or 3
I have a question, had clutch drag on my bike since i bought it new and just opened the clutch cover to inspect and found the S steel plate on the outermost position. Came like that from the factory, could this be the problem and do i switch the order?
That's not good. yes, i would put the metals back in the correct order. Check that the belleville spring flatness is within spec when assembled. Also check that the hydraulic clutch is working correctly. And lastly transmission oil type and level are important (too much oil will increase clutch drag).
@@TokyoOffroad appreciate the quick and detailed response, thank you so much
it's exackly the same as my clutch disks: 2x1.0mm, 7x1.4mm, 2x1.3mm
Can you tell me why the edges of plates are important? what if i turn some of them ... does it realy matter?
The idea of having the metal plate sharp edge sides facing out is that the force required to move the plates when they engage is minimized, which helps ensure the clutch engages smoothly and minimizes slipping. In this orientation the force required to disengage the plates may be slightly higher (force required on the clutch lever).
If your metal plate orientation is mixed, but you’re not having any issues I wouldn’t worry about it.
That makes sense. I need to recheck my assembly. I have some draging and have to set my lever far away from the bars which could indicates that my plates are bent but they are not. I checked them on glass and they are straight not burned or anything. Any other idea? Beville spring is flat. Middle ("x,y,z" in europe) adjustment is set. Ay idea what else could be wrong?
One more question. I'm still having issues with my clutch pack. Problem is with dragging to the point i cant disengage to neutral ... and slipping in position I and III on tensioner (which is odd because i have no problem on setting II, other than drag). I reassembled my clutch yesterday and it seems like my beville spring is convex on all 3 settings. With first (most tension on spring) setting on tensioner I still have Convex bevile spring about 0.3-0.4. Correct me if i'm wrong ... my clutch is worn out? I've checked the fiber plates (1.93-1.95) and they are in spec ... what am i missing? Didn't forget the washer under the beville spring in correct TOP facing outwards. I think i will change 1mm still plate for 1.4mm to see is beville spring is flat again, before buying whole clutch pack.
kosteros -If the Belleville spring is convex on all settings the clutch pack isn’t thick enough (worn out, something is missing, or wrong thickness metal plates). If the metal plates are discolored I’d recommend replacing the clutch. They may possibly be warped, causing the drag.
have a question for ya
Just put my clutch weight on. unfortunately two of the retaining plate screws i put back in are just spinning in their place . removed the screw looks like there is some metal filings in the thread of the bolt. Suggestions on where i should go from here?
Sorry to hear about the problem. My recommendation is to replace the clutch hub. They are relatively inexpensive (in the US about $110).
@@TokyoOffroad appreciate it. 🙏
Unsure if the 300 is different, or its a error, but on the 4 strokes torque for the inner clutch hub nut is 80nM, not 100 as mentioned in the video. Pays to check the manual, like I didnt :(
What kind of effect can loose rubber dampeners have on the bike? I just ordered a new set as mine are loose themselves. The bike feels like the clutch is dragging at mid-to-top end. After inspecting the clutch, this was the only item of notice.
Would the fiber thickness be the same on a 19 300i xcw? I just pulled my plates and the inner ring on the steel plates are black, fiber plates are 1.55-1.79mm thick. Can’t find the spec in my manual
So refreshing to see a video like this that pays attention to important details. Thanks Tokyo Offroad!
Is the clutch basket nut normal threads or reversed?
The clutch basket is normal threads
I thought the #1 hole was the most preload and #3 the least for lighter clutch pull.
Yes, that's correct, I messed up in the video. I did previously add the following correction note to the description of the video: "Correction- At 23:05 I discuss the belleville spring tensioner, but my description of the positions is the wrong way round. Position #1 will apply the most pressure and #3 the least pressure. Thanks to WTC for pointing this out..."
@tokyooffroad Can you point me to a good place to find clear instructional video like yours for an older 4T KTM?
2010 450 XCW SD
Can't find any help anywhere. I believe those clutches all the same 2008-2012??
Pre-DDS.
Do you have a video of such?
Thank you for your consideration. I give you a 5star 10 out of 10 rating over others I have compared. Slavens is not as good!
Thanks this was very helpful to watch before attempting myself. Few minor differences on my 2020 500 EXC-F. Manual says torque is 80NM and no loctite. Everything else was pretty much the same.
Weird that on the 2012-2016 250/300s it says to use 10nm on the clutch spring bolts and the clutch cover bolts and on the newer ones it says to use 6 and 8. I just stripped one of my clutch cover bolts either because of the 10nm or it was the wrong length.
Edit: So it turns out all of the bolts are supposed to stick out the same amount when fully unscrewed. One was really far in and one was far out. I switched them around and it worked fine, I tightened them to 8nm and the one I stripped had enough thread further down to hold that one. After I had stripped it the first time I would've left it except the bottom of my clutch cover was leaking oil.
Just found your channel. Have you ever done a complete motor rebuild video? Would be a great help of what all goes into it since KTM is very particular and uses a lot of special pieces unlike other bikes.
No, I haven't done a bottom end rebuild video yet. I'll be sure to make one when the chance comes up in the future...
Tokyo Offroad alright cool. If you do one, do it on your 2 stroke bike as that is what I plan on getting next season. All these videos help me prepare for what ill be doing to the bike if i get one.
Bottom ends on the KTMs typically don’t need anything done until 500H or more. My 2017 has done 260H now (in just under 2 years), so it’ll be a while longer...
Tokyo Offroad damn thats crazy. Whats your thoughts on a 2013/14/15 250xc motors? How reliable are they?
My kit actually has three 1.3mm ones... hoping that wont make a difference...
Hello love your vids could u tell me were do u get the we dampers from I'm goin 2 put a new clucth in my bike an want 2 put new dampers in 2 like u hav done here thanks.
Dang I should of watched this first before doing the clutches on my bike. I just slapped the clutches in and went😂. Works just like it did when it was new but I’ll do it correctly the next time😬
탱큐 당신 설명대로 실행하면 정말 좋아요 당신설명 이전에 레쿨러치 교환하다 클러치 커버 볼트를 제자리에 마추지 안아서 셀모터가작동하지 안아서 애를먹었다,,
Are these KTM clutches noisy?
Since new, mine has been making an odd sound when engaged under load. It’s a sound like the dripping of a hundred leaking faucets into a steel pan of shallow water.
The closest “solution” I’ve found online is to make sure the inner clutch hub is tightened to spec… but I’m not sure yet if this is even a problem. The clutch works fine. It’s just grating to listen to while not knowing if the noise is an indicator of a future problem or not.
Sorry to hear about the problem. No, I don't think KTM clutches are particularly noisy. If you suspect something is wrong my recommendation is to take the clutch apart and inspect everything as shown in the video, including the inner hub rubber dampers.
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks for the insight. I'll follow this video closely when those dampers arrive in the mail. Much appreciation for the content; it's been a huge help.
@@TokyoOffroad Replacing those rubber dampers did the trick. Thanks!
I’ve replaced all my plates but when my bike get up to temperature gears get really stiff ? Any ideas anyone.
What do you think about using the Rekluse dampers I got them there a lot stiffer and there also thicker and they fit stock hub your vids are the best thank you for all of them I do everything to my bike with your vids helping me out
I'm currently using some Rekluse dampers. No problems so far. Others say they last longer that the stop dampers. Will see...
Thanks for the video! My new clutch set has three 1.3mm metal plates. What's the logic for putting these thinner ones to the inside? Thanks
Great Video however still don't have have enough confidence in my mechanical abilities to do this. But Props to you.
Do U have schematic print out on ur homemade clutch tool for ktm 15 xcw 300 ? Or do U sell them. Great video by the way.tks
I got a clutch kit it has rust on the first plate and the last steel plate should I sand it off or send it back it’s the ktm clutch kit the same one you got
If the rust is bad and certainly if pitting has occurred I wouldn’t use it. For very superficial rust it should come off with some Scotchbrite
I did get it off you can’t feel it with your finger but you can see little stain where the rust was I used the scotch brite there’s no pitting thanks for always replying back your awSome and your vids are the best doing a lot of my own work from all your vids
How do i get one of those fancy Tokyo off-road oil drain tools? Looks like a compression tester fitting 😃.
Can I use Loctite 243 or 2701 instead of the 648, which I can't find?
Thank You Sir for your time, this video is perfect, very well done, congratulations. Best regards.
Would bad damper's cause a knocking noise at idle with clutch out?
so the adjustment on the belvil spring tensor would stop my clutch from being so grabby ??
Fantastic demonstration
Thanks. Pleased that you enjoyed it.