How To: Terminate a Shielded Toolless Keystone Jack
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- Опубліковано 27 гру 2020
- For shielded Ethernet cable, it bears mentioning that putting RJ45 plugs on can be a bit frustrating. Thicker outdoor shielded Ethernet cable can amplify frustration unless you have a great deal of practice.
Another item worth mentioning is that permanent links change up permitted lengths. You get more flexibility, but there are a few more rules to be aware of as outlined in Maximum Ethernet Cable Length.
Professional installers and DIY folks will benefit from this video! Not every keystone jack is alike, from manufacturer to manufacturer. Shielded Ethernet cable termination also requires additional attention to detail, as the grounding of the cable shield is critical to avoid ground loops or other maladies.
For more information on this topic, check out our blog: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable...
If you found this video helpful let us know in the comments and subscribe for more!
Video Time Codes:
[0:12-1:20] - Keystone Jack Features
[1:20-5:19] - Stripping Cable, Properly Peeling Shield & Removing Spline
[5:19-11:02] - Attaching Wires to Keystone Jack Cap
[11:02-11:48] - Flush Cut
[11:48-14:48] - Attaching Cap to Keystone Jack
trueCABLE Products Featured in this Video:
Cat6 Toolless Keystone Jack Shielded: www.truecable.com/products/ca...
Cat6 Shielded Direct Burial: www.truecable.com/products/ca...
Cutting & Stripping Tool: www.truecable.com/products/wi...
Flush Cutter: www.truecable.com/products/fl...
trueCLOSE Parallel Crimping Pliers: www.truecable.com/products/pa...
All trueCABLE Products: www.truecable.com/collections...
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Field tech here, Have installed 25 pairs of these now with another 100 pairs to go on this contract. We’ve used the true cable cat6a shielded cabling and I promise you this is not a tooless process. I now have a whole new belt of stuff for when these products are requested on a project. You will want these tools if you A: are a novice with weaker finger strength and dexterity or B: installing more than one pair of these. It’s imperative that you have a set of adjustable depth wire strippers that won’t cut the messenger or shielding. You will want a 1/8” or larger dowel rod such as a screw driver shaft to use to flatten out the ridges in the wire after untwisting (if the wires still spiral you will not have a fun time fitting them into their perspective slots, run the wires one at a time between your thumb and screw driver shaft from the cable jacket to the end of the individual wire to straighten it). You will want a 1/8” slot/flathead screw driver or smaller to press the wires into their channels (doing one pair won’t make your fingers bleed but 20 keystones will). The flush cut pliers are essential for obvious reasons shown (try to use a razor blade or punch down to cut the wires on the loading tray and you will cut your finger tip off). You will absolutely want the parallel pliers or pair of channel lock pliers (wide parallel jaw, not slip joint generic pliers, the connector will compress on one side only and roll in the pliers and crack if not careful with wrong pliers). Put the zip tie on immediately or else you’ll hear a “pop” as soon as you mount the patch panel or wall plate and have to do it again. They do fit great in standard wall plates and high density trays. They seem reusable but don’t say explicitly so. Strip more cable than needed and leave the messenger long to wrap around the folded back foil and jacket many times. The self adjusting plate that grabs the messenger is still one size fits most even with true cable branded 6a. No problem with gig transfer but I don’t have a certifier to test at 10G. Hope this helps someone on the fence.
Hello again SealTech! Thanks for your helpful tips and feedback. Indeed, any "tool-less" keystone jack is not actually "no tools required". It simply means a 110 punch down tool is not needed. The parallel jaw pliers are a huge help, as you have pointed out. A cable stripping tool and flush cutters are absolutely required.
"We've invented a tool for our toolless keystone jack...."
Indeed, the moniker "toolless" means a traditional 110 punch down tool is not required to terminate the keystone. Quite often, though, there are tools that help greatly and come in handy.
@@trueCABLE I know I know, I'm just teasing. :)
I thought this was so funny too!
This video was exactly what I needed to get my DIY direct-burial CAT6 cable working. Now my garage/workshop has Internet + WiFi! I appreciate the level of detail, the clear communication, and all the helpful tips.
Thanks, Don! We appreciate your kind words and feedback. We strive to make our videos useful and informative.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Hello Tony and you are welcome! We are glad you found it helpful.
Great video! Thanks!
You're welcome!
Thanks for the video =)
Thanks and you are welcome. We are glad you find our videos helpful!
Something I never asked months ago! Are these slim enough to mount into your typical 24-port 1U keystone patch panel?
Also, should I look for a shielded panel? (ie: metal-on-metal ports with ground wire) or is that unnecessary since these are already shielded?
Hello Kraus! Yes, these keystones are suitable for high-density 1U applications. They will fit without issue. We do suggest a metal "shielded" tool-less panel that comes with the green bond wire as best practice. That said, if you use an unshielded plastic panel you can still continue the bond through the keystone and to your switch as long as you use shielded patch cords and your switch must make use of a 3 prong power cable (have a internal AC power supply) in order to properly run the cable to ground. Hope this helps!
How am I supposed to ground the cable from here? I used these cables and keystones to go out to two security cameras outside my home, and according to you guys I need to ground the cable to save myself from ESD (I guess a fancy term for static). But my existing home wiring is not shielded, so I assume I need to ground it right here where the cable enters my home. I added a extra wire under the zip tie that wraps around both keystones. my POE switch has a grounding lug, can I just connect this wire to this and consider myself grounded?
Hello and great question! Just use a shielded patch cable from the keystone to your PoE switch. The ground path will be solid copper cable shield >>> STP keystone jack >>> STP patch cable >>> PoE switch >>> AC ground. Hope this helps!
Better late than never…
This solution would only work if the camera has the metal contact tabs on the inner left and right of the keystone on the camera. If it does, use shielded cabling from camera to switch and then ground the switch casing to the rack and then electrical receptical or dedicated ground. If the camera does not have a shielded connector you must use a passive surge protector at the eve between home run and camera and ground that device to an electrical circuit or dedicated earth ground. Your guttering will NOT suffice. Hopefully this helps someone.
Hello, great video :)
I have a question for you: can I wire a Cat7 cable on a Cat6a keystone jack? What kind of issue can rise in terms of speed?
(Cat 7 because on Amazon it costs quite the same as a Cat6a)
Thank you.
Hello Paolo! Yes, you can terminate a Cat7 cable onto a Cat6A keystone jack. However, performance will be limited to that of Cat6A . Also, note that Cat7 cable is shielded and so will require shielded keystone jacks. Hope this helps!
@@trueCABLEthank you for your answer :)
I have another question for you: is it ok to use the earth conductor from the electrical line to ground the patch rack where the keystone jacks are placed?
Or it needs a different/dedicated ground circuit?
I ask because in case of fault of an electric appliance (like washing machine) the fault tension affects also the ethernet shield. And a 230V (in Europe) along the ethernet cable is not so nice.
Do you have any tips or tricks for removing them from wall plates without every time breaking the brittle plastic clip on top?
Hello Tolga, We had a customer suggest a pair of 90 degree needle nosed pliers to grasp the jack and depress the clip at the same time. It should work well. Let us know how it goes! Also please see our Cable Academy at www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/ for more informative videos and blogs!
Thanks for the video. A newbie question - is a grounded shielded keystone the equivalent of a surge protection device?
Hello RT! You are welcome. To answer your question: No, when you bond your cable shield to your shielded termination hardware that is not the same thing as surge protection. In order to function properly (or at all) the cable shield in shielded cable has to be bonded to ground. It will not, however, suppress anything that drains down it like ESD or EMI. Hope that helps!
How well will this fit inside a wall plate? Too long?
Hello! Our shielded tool-less keystone jack will fit any standard wall plate. The question of too long or not revolves around your installation environment. Old work (shallow depth walls) will likely cause an issue with keystone/cable clearance and brand does not matter. New work with regular depth walls will not pose an issue. If you are dealing with old work, there are faceplate mounts that extend out from the wall about 1/2" that will help ease the issue. We hope this helps!
I start watching your educational videos on terminating ethernet cable. thank you. right now I tried 15 times terminating shielded cat6 ethernet cable to shielded tools keystone wall plug but always getting #3 not lid green when testing. all other lid green but skip #3. I followed the t-568B. I change cable, I change different plug. and I am sure all the twisted pair are well punch down and align. but always 3 which is green/white is not lid. can you suggest what should I do. I appreciated.
Hello! I am sorry to hear of your trouble. I would recommend trying another keystone jack as the first step. The second step is also to be sure your tester is working OK by using a known good patch cord. Your error indicates poor electrical contact, but I have seen testers give erroneous results. This is definitely an issue related to termination or the tester (or both). It is not indicative of a cable issue. Finally, be sure the keystone jacks and cables have been validated to work with each other. Sometimes, someone's connection hardware may have trouble with certain other brands of Ethernet cable due to compatibility issues around conductor insulation diameter (too small or too big) and trouble making contact inside the jack after closing the lid. We hope this helps and let us know if you have further questions!
thank you for your quick response and comment. I think tester is fine because when I connect my computer to the ethernet cable. It shows no connection through cable like it shows on tester. I also did change and tried different keystone jack. I did terminate as white/blue and solid blue and white green/solid green and other side white orange/solid orange and white brown/solid brown@@trueCABLE
@@yougyal1 Hello again! Understood. Without more data, we will be unable to help troubleshoot. If you are using trueCABLE components, please contact us via our website at www.truecable.com/pages/contact-us so we can get additional data and photos of your terminations. Looking forward to assisting more!
I've been enlisted by a friend to help get a PTP Wireless Bridge setup from his house to a detached office space about 50 yards behind his house. They have a typical home wireless router with 4 or 5 switchports on the back of it, so my current plan is Switch > Keystone Wall Port > Another Keystone Wall Port > PoE Injector > PTP Wireless Bridge Device. Is it okay to only use STP from the PoE Injector to the PTP Wireless Bridge? Thinking I may just get a pre-terminated STP Outdoor Patch Cable versus having to by a whole box of STP cabling and then use UTP cabling the rest of the way as it is all indoors.
Hello Andrew! I am trying to visualize your situation, and quite frankly I don't think you would need to used shielded (STP) cable anywhere in this installation. Don't use STP unless you must. I would suggest U/UTP unless there is something EMI/RFI related you are trying to mitigate or if there is a potential ESD discharge and equipment damage issue. I suggest taking a look at this blog here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/selecting-the-correct-outdoor-ethernet-cable and also this blog here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/shielded-vs-unshielded-cable.
@trueCABLE Main reason I thought STP was because the manufacturer has this on their website, "Shielded Category 5 (or above) cabling with drain wire should be used for all outdoor wired Ethernet connections and should be grounded through the AC ground of the PoE."
Could just be a marketing ploy on their part since the next sentence says, "We recommend that you protect your networks from harmful outdoor environments and destructive ESD events with industrial-grade, shielded Ethernet cable from Ubiquiti."
You can find what I'm referencing @ dl.ubnt.com/qsg/Loco5AC/Loco5AC_EN.html
It has their recommended topology for setting up what I'm going to set up. I didn't fully understand why they recommended STP. Thought maybe some outdoor rated cabling for the outdoor portion of the run and then just some regular stranded UTP for the rest of it and a patch cable from the switch to the wall port.
@@andrewhelton6119 Hey Andrew. I am aware of UI's recommendations around using STP. The truth is that shielded is only needed in certain outdoor situations, not all of them. They are not making a marketing ploy; they are simply covering all of their bases since many of their customer base will install Ethernet between two structures in the air or up a pole where you really should use shielded. Rather than explain all of the different ways and means, they just blanket recommend STP. I understand this line of thinking, and from their perspective it keeps ESD damage related Warranty claims down. What they DON'T tell you is the other side of the coin like what happens if you don't properly bond your cable shield or if you run into a ground loop. As with many things in life, there are nuances to every recommendation and the absolute truth is somewhere in the middle.
@@trueCABLE Okay. So it's pretty much a "Cover Our Butt" clause.
So if I'm going to have two of those NanoStation Loco devices mounted outdoors on a mounting pole (small one) on the side of a building, can I get by with regular UTP cabling?
The video is excellent, but unfortunately, I only viewed it after attempting to wire this jack with the factory insert instructions that gloss by an important point-two wires go above, and two wires go below the horizontal separation bar. The video explains this nicely, but the package instructions do not mention this. Not understanding this, I destroyed the jack when I closed it. JRL
Hello JRL! Sorry about that! In reviewing the instruction sheet, it shows the conductor pairs above and below the bar in the picture but the instructions do not explicitly state it or give a warning either. We will get that corrected. In the meantime, please accept our apologies and we are willing to replace your jack. Please contact our Customer Success Team at www.truecable.com/pages/contact-us and reference this YT comment and also that Don pre-approved the replacement. ~~Don.
pliars with your shirt works fine... least for me... but that's insanely thick cable, are you running that underground?
Hello Aaron. That's interesting. I have not considered my shirt with pliers before, but in a pinch, I might try your method. Saves steps if you forget a tool! Yes, that is Shielded Cat6 Direct Burial, and it is nearly 8mm thick. Crazy thick and difficult to work with stuff, but it's needed in some scenarios. Our shielded tool-less keystones easily handle such cable.
If I have grounded the other side of this cable, can I connect i to the computer using shielded patch cable. Doesn't my computer case make it grounded and the whole cable become grounded on both sides? Or do I need to use unshielded patch cable?
Hello! That all depends on whether you are looking to avoid a ground loop or not. If you are installing shielded Ethernet, the best way is to have both ends bonded to ground, and in your case, a computer chassis with AC power supply would take care of one end if you used a shielded patch cord when the rest of the installation was shielded and bonded at the switch as well. That is a GOOD thing if you are in the same structure on the same AC ground system. More bonds to the same ground system increases the resiliency. The only time you would wish to use an unshielded patch cord on one side would be if you cannot avoid a ground loop (two actual AC ground systems like in two different buildings), or the better bet would be to use fully unshielded from end to end so it never ends up being an issue in the first place. Of course, each installation is different, so carefully consider what you are doing and if you really need shielded or not. Installing shielded Ethernet involves bonding to ground and considerations that can get complicated quickly.
@@trueCABLE Thank you for the comprehensive answer.
@@Szklana147 No problem! Glad we could help.
I’ve never worked with keystones. Are these reusable incase I someway somehow mess up or need to “recrimp” the wires again?
Hello! Keystones are the preferred (and correct) way to terminate solid copper Ethernet cable. They can be re-terminated 20X.
Never used one of those tools. I just use regular cheap pliers and it works fine, most ppl have them.
Hello! Correct, a pair of decent adjustable pliers will also work albeit a bit imprecisely. The closure tool shown here is designed to eliminate any possible errors in too much or too little pressure and is designed to work with our tool-less keystone jacks and field termination plugs alike.
They save you the use of one tool. But it is useful to use another tool...
I counted 3 tools there...
They call it toolless! Yep... why not... 🤔
Hello Avi and thanks for your comment. The term "tool-less" revolves around not requiring a 110 punch down tool. However, you will still need flush cutters and a way of removing the cable jacket. Depending on the insulated conductor size of the cable, you may also need a tool to close the hinged lid. Some people can do it, but others cannot get the cap closed as it does require a bit of strength. We appreciate you tuning into our videos.