Your little skewer trick is cool, but there is an indicator on the flywheel visible through the smaller plug to the right of the one you're using to turn the crankshaft.
Yeah, I read about that in the service manual, but wasn't able to get the smaller plug off. In retrospect, I probably should have made a comment about it in the video. Lucky for future viewers of this video, they'll have your comment as an extra bit of guidance 🙂
Not sure if you’ll see this so long after these videos were made, but thanks to you I was able to get my first bike running with only about $1k in it, truly appreciate these guides!
You are a fantastic human being. The work and clarity put into these videos is phenomenal. I genuinely cannot express how much I appreciate it. You're the best brother!
Dude....thanks so much for the kind words. I've come back to read your comment like 5 times today. Really lifts my spirits knowing my videos were helpful to you :D
Rebuilding after another engine failure and did most of it by memory. I forgot about your paracord trick and used a cheap amazon clutch basket wrench and it kept slipping off until it finally cracked my clutch basket! Luckily I have a spare from an older engine. I really need to remember that paracord trick next time!
Very nice! I’m going to be rebuilding a V4 Honda engine soon, and hopefully it’s as easy as you made this this look :) I’m hoping the extra three cylinders don’t make it too much more difficult!
Appreciate the time you took to do this it means a lot give me an idea of what to look for and what to buy before you even take it apart I hope all your future builds are easy and you don't forget nothing
These videos have been fantastic! My oil pump failed on my 2011 cbr250 and I haven't been able to find any good videos showing exactly how to tear down/ reassemble it! Thanks man
Echoing what some others have said in that these videos are phenomenal and I am so glad you made them. Super clear with helpful tips and pointers. Amazing!!
Spectacular video.Thank you. I just tore my cbr 250 down due to an exhaust valve being stuck open.( 3,100 miles, but sat for about 3-4 years) Hint was blow by in the case coming out the oil fill cap when cranking. Hit by piston also.. So, bascially a new top end. Botton end zero damage.
Thanks! Yeah, if I had the dealership do the work, it would have cost about $2000....which is more than the $1500 that I pad for the bike. In parts (and video equipment!), I ended up spending less than $500, so if I were to turn around and sell the bike id probably make about $1000 profit.
so that you know- just to replace the crankshat, one does not need to remove the clutch or the gearbox and balancer shaft gears. only the flywheel and nut on the other side that holds the chain sprocket. then the crankshaft slides out. to remove the flywheel, I used a bold from Honda C-RV rear diff plug hole. it is M20x1.5. no need to buy expensive tool.
Dude you've helped me so much!, I used it to put my cbr 250r together. Its almost identical, you have that weird thing before the clutch disks but I don't, mine's a 2011
I have a 2020 CBR I bought brand new from a dealership, barely a few thousand miles on the dash and had to rebuild. I’ll spare the details but it’s been a long time since I’ve began the rebuild. A lot of progress has been done. It has ran since but only for a few miles and had cut off. It hasn’t been started since that point and I’ve done what i know to do or found out yet I just can’t get it I don’t understand why. I’m fairly mechanically inclined, but engine rebuild was a naïve task to take on though. I’ve done it well so far just these little things that I can’t figure out likely due to my knowledge I have studied your videos on this topic thoroughly the engine is the exact same even the bike from fairing to the journal bearing all the same. I was really hoping maybe you could get in contact with me to possibly help out in any way would be incredible. I literally bought the bike brand new in cash at once and got it up to maybe right under 3000 miles. It’s been so long since it ran I forgot the mileage on it, but I’ve had it very unfortunate from no help from the dealership no money to take to shop or anything of the sort and would just give anything to have it running again.
Hey man, sorry to hear about your bike. I'd be happy to try to help. Post a thread over on www.cbr300forum.com/ , and between me an the other cbr300 enthusiasts, I'm sure you'll get the info you need!
Thanks so much for putting these videos together. Extremely helpful for a first timer like myself! Your comments about molybdenum disulfide got me a bit nervous, as I haven't found that compound specifically on its own. My friend gave me some Lubriplate #105 Motor Assembly Grease, which I think is the same as what you used. Has worked out fine for you?
The cross hatch pattern in the Piston cylinder are for ensuring that the cylinder is a precise size and for allowing grooves to conduct oil. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honing_(metalworking)
The valves have shims? is there valve clearance to check? I see the roller on the rocker arm but can't find how to check valve clearance or how to adjust for a noisy valve train.
Yeah, there's one shim for each valve. They look kinda like hearing-aid batteries. You can see them at 19:05 in the video. So far as adjusting the valve clearances, i didnt do that, but i did put screen shots from the factory service manual in around time stamp 17:17. I'm not sure how to solve a noisy drive train...i would probably start by making sure everything is well lubricated, and that there is proper tension on the timing chain (i install the timing chain tensioner around time stamp 15:35....not sure if it has any capacity for adjustment, but it might be a place to start looking). If that's all good, maybe check your drive chain for stiff links? Hope that's helpful, good luck!
@@lightningfrog27 thank you sir, between your videos and others I have narrowed down my issues with my son's bike. Will be replacing the cylinder head and intake cam, thanks again,
Did you change a gear or do anything to the crankshaft? You don’t have to live the piston to put the rings on. I’m confused what broke on the bike? How many miles are on it? I was thinking about buying a cb300r myself
No change to the stock gear ratio. One of the skirts on the old piston had worn down a bit due to piston slap. That had put some damage on one side of the cylinder, and actually deposited some of the galled piston skirt into the corrugated piston ring...which was preventing proper lubrication during normal operation. In short, he old piston was wearing preferential. When I first bought the bike, it still ran fine, but had a knocking sound. With 20-20 hind sight, I definitely did not need to split the crank case open, and MAYBE didn't even need to replace the cylinder... might have been able to get away with just replacing the piston rings! Even though I did more work than required, I learned a lot in the process, and hope that my documentation of the process is helping to other folks 😎
Where did you find the engine specifications? What to use on it and the torque settings etc, I got a Neo Cafe but it's meant to be the same engine. I don't see anything about the settings inside the engine itself on my owners manual.
Hello, not sure if you can remember but in the video are you TDC with the cam lobes outwards or facing down? I'm trying to figure out if I'm 180 degrees off on my CBR300R engine. Damn bike won't start.
I don't remember because I never had to worry about the lobe orientation.... because when the stamped letters are right-side-up at TDC, the lobes are in the correct orientation.
Thank you so much Sir. For this special video. I am also working on this kind of project. On Seized Engine of Honda CBR 250R. I help me allot. And previous Engine Dismantling of engine also helped me allot. Thanks a lot for these videos. I hit A big punch on your UA-cam Channel SUBSCRIBE button. Thank you
@@lightningfrog27 I successfully rebuild it. And now engine is running for Breaking period up-to 1000 kms. 😇😇😇. Riding new rebuild engine at speed limit up-to 60kmph for 1000kms and it is running like brand new and silently. 😇
I dont know for sure...but i'd guess that a wheelie would not starve the oil for two main reasons: 1) Check out time stamp ~ 6:37...you can see the engine in the as-installed orientation. The little rectangular slot you see at the bottom center of the crank case split line is the oil intake screen - the oil pump sucks oil up from just below there. The oil reservoir is in the larger cavity below that (most easily seen when the crank case is split apart such as at time stamp 5:10). Basically, the oil pump is drawing from the very bottom of the engine, so even if the engine is tipped 60 or 70 degrees, i'd expect it to remain submerged. (also, later on, around time stamp 11:42 you can see the oil pump side of the engine with the crank cover in place, which has the sight glass on it, so you can imagine how full the oil reservoir would be at rest). 2) Honda engine designers are pretty smart - I'd guess that they accounted for the likelihood that some customers would want to use this as a trick bike, and strategically placed the oil suction accordingly. I suppose the best way to know for sure would be to prop up the front end of the bike (maybe on the bed of a truck?) and then support the swing arm (jack stands? service stand?) and try running the engine. that way you'd be able to see and hear how the engine is behaving directly with a fast/safe/easy way to kill the engine if you see the temperature gage rising, or smoke coming out of the exhaust. (please report back if you end of up doing this!)
@@lightningfrog27 I'm thinking about getting a Rebel 300 was just wondering if it could wheelie like my Grom, if I get it I'll just use ratchet straps and an A frame ladder to stand it up and remove the valve cover to see if the top end is getting oil... Thanks for the reply!
Time is hard to gage because I spent so much time setting up the video camera and long delays between work days due to editing, plus digging through the service manual and Internet forums...but with that as a caveat, id guess the total wrench turning time for the whole project start to finish was less than 20 hrs, and total $$ spent was less than $300
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I just used the partzilla search function and grabbed piston rings that said they matched the piston PN i was ordering. www.partzilla.com/product/honda/13010-KYJ-305?ref=59c9fb63f4a4bc7985641883db5717339768fe97
Glad to hear im not the only one :) Cylinder head cover bolts (qty 2) = .7 lb-ft Cylinder head mounting nuts (qty 4) = 33 lb-ft For the head mounting nuts, dont forget to apply engine oil to the threads and seating surface!
What's the center clutch nut torque spec? And why the heck does every oem part site and parts guys at bike shops say the center clutch nut is 16mm????? I know for a fact like you that mine is 24mm
80 ft-lbs Parts suppliers (and even the OEM factory service manual) specify "16mm" because that's describing the size of the threads, not the distance across the flats of nut. Not terribly useful to the end user. Good luck with your build!
@@lightningfrog27 thanks so much for the Swift reply man. That 16 mm thing was messing with my head bad and had me annoying the parts guy lol. I didn't get mine torqued. I used an impact the first time, but had to open the case again.this time I only used a ratchet and didn't want to bear down too much and break teeth on my clutch basket.also, I did this purposefully to not tighten it quite so much so I could restake the nut a little to the side until my new one comes in. I figured even if it's a bit tighter, vibration and possible counterclockwise turning could cause it to loosen if not staked🤷♂️... maybe I goofed...Just got stressed about the staking since it comes from factory like that😬.thoughts on this? And I really really really really appreciate the detailed vids.i'd be up 💩creek without a paddle without your channel bro. I never even opened an engine before 3 days ago. I've learned soooo much, actually like the bike I have now since it's easier to work on than the faster bike I've been dying to get🙄, and have actually grown as a person and became a more capable man in my actual life. I absolutely CANNOT afford to pay a shop to fix it for me or wait while they do it since this is my only means of transport. This means I'm either screwed or further behind the interest rate on my credit card which also means screwed. I know this is a long paragraph, but you made my only option possible. You did that, and I thank you 🛐.
Thanks so much for your kind words. I remember when i first started working on a vehicle because i couldnt afford to pay someone else to do it...it was on my 1995 Plymouth Neon. After doing a handful of small jobs (radiator, shocks), i ended up needing to change my timing belt....and BOY did that feel good when it worked. Super big confidence boost to recognize and understand that these machines are just gigantic/expensive lego sets :D I'm happy to hear that my videos have been helpful in your journey! About torque vs staking....Generally, the thing that prevents nuts from coming off of bolts the installation torque - it causes the bolt to elastically stretch a very small amount, which is basically making it act like a very stiff spring as it clamps two things together. This is sometimes referred to as the "primary locking" mechanism. When nuts and bolts are in an environment with high vibration, there's a possibility of 'self loosening'. If that risk is high enough, or if a nut coming off would cause a really bad outcome, they mitigate the self loosening risk by calling for a 'secondary locking' or 'positive locking' mechanism. There's a lot of ways to doubly ensure that the nut doesnt come off (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Positive_locking_device), but in this case, they decided to go with a bent metal tab - "staking". I dont know enough about what drove them to call for secondary locking, but i assume it's to ensure safe operation and/or prevent major engine damage if that nut came off. That being the case, i would highly recommend making sure your bike has both proper torque (primary locking) and the bent tab (secondary locking) before riding it around. Good luck!
Would be best to just link to a Google photo album or the video that you upload to your UA-cam channel so other people that find this comment chain in the future can see what's going on too 👍
@@rguru2493 my cam gear alignment was similar to yours when I started taking apart my engine. I'm just at the point where I'm ready to put things back together. Did you resolve the issue?
It's a tight fit for sure....best advice i could give is to release the tension on the cam chain tensioner like i did around the 19:41 mark. Might also need to tip the cams a bit out of the journals. Good luck!
@@lightningfrog27 thanks for the reply! I took the crank case off and even check everything inside and I took the tensioner off and still won’t fit on. Im gonna try again tomorrow but your playlist has helped me tremendously!
Your little skewer trick is cool, but there is an indicator on the flywheel visible through the smaller plug to the right of the one you're using to turn the crankshaft.
Yeah, I read about that in the service manual, but wasn't able to get the smaller plug off. In retrospect, I probably should have made a comment about it in the video. Lucky for future viewers of this video, they'll have your comment as an extra bit of guidance 🙂
Not sure if you’ll see this so long after these videos were made, but thanks to you I was able to get my first bike running with only about $1k in it, truly appreciate these guides!
Thanks for taking a moment to share your kind words...really brightens my day. My channel isn't big, so I still read every comment 😎
You are a fantastic human being. The work and clarity put into these videos is phenomenal. I genuinely cannot express how much I appreciate it. You're the best brother!
Dude....thanks so much for the kind words. I've come back to read your comment like 5 times today. Really lifts my spirits knowing my videos were helpful to you :D
Thank you for this series. I would never have worked up the courage to rebuild my cb300f engine if it weren't for you making it seem so easy.
Dude you are not a mechanic? You doing amazing, congratulations!
Rebuilding after another engine failure and did most of it by memory. I forgot about your paracord trick and used a cheap amazon clutch basket wrench and it kept slipping off until it finally cracked my clutch basket! Luckily I have a spare from an older engine. I really need to remember that paracord trick next time!
Very nice! I’m going to be rebuilding a V4 Honda engine soon, and hopefully it’s as easy as you made this this look :) I’m hoping the extra three cylinders don’t make it too much more difficult!
Appreciate the time you took to do this it means a lot give me an idea of what to look for and what to buy before you even take it apart I hope all your future builds are easy and you don't forget nothing
Thanks man, means a lot to me 😎
These videos have been fantastic! My oil pump failed on my 2011 cbr250 and I haven't been able to find any good videos showing exactly how to tear down/ reassemble it! Thanks man
Echoing what some others have said in that these videos are phenomenal and I am so glad you made them. Super clear with helpful tips and pointers. Amazing!!
Spectacular video.Thank you. I just tore my cbr 250 down due to an exhaust valve being stuck open.( 3,100 miles, but sat for about 3-4 years) Hint was blow by in the case coming out the oil fill cap when cranking. Hit by piston also.. So, bascially a new top end. Botton end zero damage.
An excellent video. Very informative. Did the cost of rebuilding your engine nearly exceed the value of the bike Keep up the good work.
Thanks!
Yeah, if I had the dealership do the work, it would have cost about $2000....which is more than the $1500 that I pad for the bike.
In parts (and video equipment!), I ended up spending less than $500, so if I were to turn around and sell the bike id probably make about $1000 profit.
Your video was very helpful. Although I had the book to use, your video was easier to follow. (I have a 2015 cb300f)
Great video in depth
so that you know- just to replace the crankshat, one does not need to remove the clutch or the gearbox and balancer shaft gears. only the flywheel and nut on the other side that holds the chain sprocket. then the crankshaft slides out. to remove the flywheel, I used a bold from Honda C-RV rear diff plug hole. it is M20x1.5. no need to buy expensive tool.
Thanks for sharing!
Dude you've helped me so much!, I used it to put my cbr 250r together. Its almost identical, you have that weird thing before the clutch disks but I don't, mine's a 2011
I have a 2020 CBR I bought brand new from a dealership, barely a few thousand miles on the dash and had to rebuild. I’ll spare the details but it’s been a long time since I’ve began the rebuild. A lot of progress has been done. It has ran since but only for a few miles and had cut off. It hasn’t been started since that point and I’ve done what i know to do or found out yet I just can’t get it I don’t understand why. I’m fairly mechanically inclined, but engine rebuild was a naïve task to take on though. I’ve done it well so far just these little things that I can’t figure out likely due to my knowledge
I have studied your videos on this topic thoroughly the engine is the exact same even the bike from fairing to the journal bearing all the same. I was really hoping maybe you could get in contact with me to possibly help out in any way would be incredible.
I literally bought the bike brand new in cash at once and got it up to maybe right under 3000 miles. It’s been so long since it ran I forgot the mileage on it, but I’ve had it very unfortunate from no help from the dealership no money to take to shop or anything of the sort and would just give anything to have it running again.
Hey man, sorry to hear about your bike. I'd be happy to try to help. Post a thread over on www.cbr300forum.com/ , and between me an the other cbr300 enthusiasts, I'm sure you'll get the info you need!
Thanks so much for putting these videos together. Extremely helpful for a first timer like myself!
Your comments about molybdenum disulfide got me a bit nervous, as I haven't found that compound specifically on its own. My friend gave me some Lubriplate #105 Motor Assembly Grease, which I think is the same as what you used. Has worked out fine for you?
Yeah, worked like a charm.
Thank you so much! I needed this.
Glad it was helpful!
The cross hatch pattern in the Piston cylinder are for ensuring that the cylinder is a precise size and for allowing grooves to conduct oil. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honing_(metalworking)
Great video, can you make specific video for measuring the right gap between shim? What is the best time for replace the shim?
Awesome work!
awesome vid
Thanks 😁
The valves have shims? is there valve clearance to check? I see the roller on the rocker arm but can't find how to check valve clearance or how to adjust for a noisy valve train.
Yeah, there's one shim for each valve. They look kinda like hearing-aid batteries. You can see them at 19:05 in the video.
So far as adjusting the valve clearances, i didnt do that, but i did put screen shots from the factory service manual in around time stamp 17:17.
I'm not sure how to solve a noisy drive train...i would probably start by making sure everything is well lubricated, and that there is proper tension on the timing chain (i install the timing chain tensioner around time stamp 15:35....not sure if it has any capacity for adjustment, but it might be a place to start looking). If that's all good, maybe check your drive chain for stiff links?
Hope that's helpful, good luck!
@@lightningfrog27 thank you sir, between your videos and others I have narrowed down my issues with my son's bike. Will be replacing the cylinder head and intake cam, thanks again,
Did you change a gear or do anything to the crankshaft? You don’t have to live the piston to put the rings on. I’m confused what broke on the bike? How many miles are on it? I was thinking about buying a cb300r myself
No change to the stock gear ratio.
One of the skirts on the old piston had worn down a bit due to piston slap. That had put some damage on one side of the cylinder, and actually deposited some of the galled piston skirt into the corrugated piston ring...which was preventing proper lubrication during normal operation.
In short, he old piston was wearing preferential. When I first bought the bike, it still ran fine, but had a knocking sound. With 20-20 hind sight, I definitely did not need to split the crank case open, and MAYBE didn't even need to replace the cylinder... might have been able to get away with just replacing the piston rings!
Even though I did more work than required, I learned a lot in the process, and hope that my documentation of the process is helping to other folks 😎
Where did you find the engine specifications? What to use on it and the torque settings etc, I got a Neo Cafe but it's meant to be the same engine. I don't see anything about the settings inside the engine itself on my owners manual.
I downloaded the factory service manual....i think i found it while digging around the CBR300 forums. www.cbr300forum.com/
Hello, not sure if you can remember but in the video are you TDC with the cam lobes outwards or facing down? I'm trying to figure out if I'm 180 degrees off on my CBR300R engine. Damn bike won't start.
I don't remember because I never had to worry about the lobe orientation.... because when the stamped letters are right-side-up at TDC, the lobes are in the correct orientation.
Do you really need silicone? Can I do it with just new gaskets?
Im pretty sure the wet silicone between the two crankcase halves is required.
красавчик!
Thank you so much Sir. For this special video. I am also working on this kind of project. On Seized Engine of Honda CBR 250R. I help me allot. And previous Engine Dismantling of engine also helped me allot. Thanks a lot for these videos.
I hit A big punch on your UA-cam Channel SUBSCRIBE button.
Thank you
Glad the videos are helpful to you, and thanks for taking the time to comment and subscribe. It really means a lot to me. Good luck with your build!!
@@lightningfrog27 I successfully rebuild it. And now engine is running for Breaking period up-to 1000 kms. 😇😇😇.
Riding new rebuild engine at speed limit up-to 60kmph for 1000kms and it is running like brand new and silently. 😇
NICE!!! Feels great, doesn't it?
Super bro
Does this motor/oil pump design appear to be oil starved from a 60°-70° wheelie?
Looked everywhere online and can't find any info...
I dont know for sure...but i'd guess that a wheelie would not starve the oil for two main reasons:
1) Check out time stamp ~ 6:37...you can see the engine in the as-installed orientation. The little rectangular slot you see at the bottom center of the crank case split line is the oil intake screen - the oil pump sucks oil up from just below there. The oil reservoir is in the larger cavity below that (most easily seen when the crank case is split apart such as at time stamp 5:10). Basically, the oil pump is drawing from the very bottom of the engine, so even if the engine is tipped 60 or 70 degrees, i'd expect it to remain submerged. (also, later on, around time stamp 11:42 you can see the oil pump side of the engine with the crank cover in place, which has the sight glass on it, so you can imagine how full the oil reservoir would be at rest).
2) Honda engine designers are pretty smart - I'd guess that they accounted for the likelihood that some customers would want to use this as a trick bike, and strategically placed the oil suction accordingly.
I suppose the best way to know for sure would be to prop up the front end of the bike (maybe on the bed of a truck?) and then support the swing arm (jack stands? service stand?) and try running the engine. that way you'd be able to see and hear how the engine is behaving directly with a fast/safe/easy way to kill the engine if you see the temperature gage rising, or smoke coming out of the exhaust.
(please report back if you end of up doing this!)
@@lightningfrog27 I'm thinking about getting a Rebel 300 was just wondering if it could wheelie like my Grom, if I get it I'll just use ratchet straps and an A frame ladder to stand it up and remove the valve cover to see if the top end is getting oil... Thanks for the reply!
What was the total cost and time involved for this?
Time is hard to gage because I spent so much time setting up the video camera and long delays between work days due to editing, plus digging through the service manual and Internet forums...but with that as a caveat, id guess the total wrench turning time for the whole project start to finish was less than 20 hrs, and total $$ spent was less than $300
Hi what type rings does it use 🤔 I can't find it on ebay I live in Jamaica
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I just used the partzilla search function and grabbed piston rings that said they matched the piston PN i was ordering.
www.partzilla.com/product/honda/13010-KYJ-305?ref=59c9fb63f4a4bc7985641883db5717339768fe97
I did the same with the timing chain guide
And whats the torque spec for the head bolts?
Glad to hear im not the only one :)
Cylinder head cover bolts (qty 2) = .7 lb-ft
Cylinder head mounting nuts (qty 4) = 33 lb-ft
For the head mounting nuts, dont forget to apply engine oil to the threads and seating surface!
Sorry to bother you can you please tell me whats the torque spec for camshaft holders
What caused the engine to fail?
Some premature/preferential wear on the skirt of the piston, likely caused by insufficient lubrication.
What service manual are you using?
It's the factory service manual published by Honda, used by the factory trained techs.
@@lightningfrog27 sweet, how would I go about obtaining one of those lol. I was thinking Hanes or one of those books
Anyone have any issue with their cylinder not sliding down easily after clearing the piston rings?
If it gets past the rings, it should be pretty smooth going...if not I'd guess that there's something else interfering
What's the center clutch nut torque spec? And why the heck does every oem part site and parts guys at bike shops say the center clutch nut is 16mm????? I know for a fact like you that mine is 24mm
80 ft-lbs
Parts suppliers (and even the OEM factory service manual) specify "16mm" because that's describing the size of the threads, not the distance across the flats of nut. Not terribly useful to the end user. Good luck with your build!
@@lightningfrog27 thanks so much for the Swift reply man. That 16 mm thing was messing with my head bad and had me annoying the parts guy lol. I didn't get mine torqued. I used an impact the first time, but had to open the case again.this time I only used a ratchet and didn't want to bear down too much and break teeth on my clutch basket.also, I did this purposefully to not tighten it quite so much so I could restake the nut a little to the side until my new one comes in. I figured even if it's a bit tighter, vibration and possible counterclockwise turning could cause it to loosen if not staked🤷♂️... maybe I goofed...Just got stressed about the staking since it comes from factory like that😬.thoughts on this? And I really really really really appreciate the detailed vids.i'd be up 💩creek without a paddle without your channel bro. I never even opened an engine before 3 days ago. I've learned soooo much, actually like the bike I have now since it's easier to work on than the faster bike I've been dying to get🙄, and have actually grown as a person and became a more capable man in my actual life. I absolutely CANNOT afford to pay a shop to fix it for me or wait while they do it since this is my only means of transport. This means I'm either screwed or further behind the interest rate on my credit card which also means screwed. I know this is a long paragraph, but you made my only option possible. You did that, and I thank you 🛐.
Thanks so much for your kind words. I remember when i first started working on a vehicle because i couldnt afford to pay someone else to do it...it was on my 1995 Plymouth Neon. After doing a handful of small jobs (radiator, shocks), i ended up needing to change my timing belt....and BOY did that feel good when it worked. Super big confidence boost to recognize and understand that these machines are just gigantic/expensive lego sets :D I'm happy to hear that my videos have been helpful in your journey!
About torque vs staking....Generally, the thing that prevents nuts from coming off of bolts the installation torque - it causes the bolt to elastically stretch a very small amount, which is basically making it act like a very stiff spring as it clamps two things together. This is sometimes referred to as the "primary locking" mechanism. When nuts and bolts are in an environment with high vibration, there's a possibility of 'self loosening'. If that risk is high enough, or if a nut coming off would cause a really bad outcome, they mitigate the self loosening risk by calling for a 'secondary locking' or 'positive locking' mechanism. There's a lot of ways to doubly ensure that the nut doesnt come off (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Positive_locking_device), but in this case, they decided to go with a bent metal tab - "staking". I dont know enough about what drove them to call for secondary locking, but i assume it's to ensure safe operation and/or prevent major engine damage if that nut came off. That being the case, i would highly recommend making sure your bike has both proper torque (primary locking) and the bent tab (secondary locking) before riding it around. Good luck!
My intake cam is slightly off by a Millimetre. I mean its not as parallel like the exhaust cam?
Can you take some pics or video? Off hand, I can't think of anything that is would cause that...
@@lightningfrog27 can i get your mail id?
Would be best to just link to a Google photo album or the video that you upload to your UA-cam channel so other people that find this comment chain in the future can see what's going on too 👍
@@lightningfrog27 ua-cam.com/video/7mNpRI1kwaY/v-deo.html
@@rguru2493 my cam gear alignment was similar to yours when I started taking apart my engine. I'm just at the point where I'm ready to put things back together. Did you resolve the issue?
i cant get my timing chain over both cams even after messing with the tension and piston position
It's a tight fit for sure....best advice i could give is to release the tension on the cam chain tensioner like i did around the 19:41 mark. Might also need to tip the cams a bit out of the journals. Good luck!
@@lightningfrog27 thanks for the reply! I took the crank case off and even check everything inside and I took the tensioner off and still won’t fit on. Im gonna try again tomorrow but your playlist has helped me tremendously!
hey bro... do you answer technical questions? email?
I can certainly try, but I'm not trained or certified or whatever. Yeah, email is fine.
300 cylinder kitfit for cbr250r 2011
😍😍😍😍😍👌👍
I can't believe you didn't change the spark plug. It's a horrible job once the bike is put back together!
Oof...I probably should have 😅
Hopefully others will see you comment and remember to do it when working on their engines!