Hi Nathan, I retired after 40 yrs as a heavy construction equipment operator/heavy duty repairman. My interest in blacksmithing came from watching a TV series "Forged In Fire" on the History Channel here in the U.S. I like how you show and explain the process for making blacksmithing tools from start to finish. I'm real new to blacksmithing and I'm almost finished assembling equipment and tools to build my first forge, the only items left to complete are the propane forge and coal forge which should be done in 2 wks. Then I'll start practicing with RR spikes, truck leaf and coil springs and axles making various tongs, chisels and hardy tools. Kudos to you and your tutorials Nathan for the way you break down moving and shaping hot steel, it makes it easy to understand the process of forging metal!
Nathan, Thank you so much for your step by step videos & instruction. It is so much easier to understand the process & the correct form & angle. I agree with everyone: Your new format is awesome & I finally get to see you as a person...lol. I get to see more about the hammering method, as well. Your work is greatly appreciated!
I love your videos! I'm not a blacksmith nor do I foresee myself becoming one due to a bad back, but just watching the step by step process is fascinating. Very informative and entertaining at the same time.
Another great video! Id be interested in seeing a video on a spring fuller for a hardie hole, punches, hardy hold down, and bending forks. I find your videos to be the most instructional and useful to watch for when i want to go and make something.
Thank you that means a lot!! Punches have been filmed and will be added soon, next one is Thursday, Everything you have mentioned is on the list to film so when i get them done i shall upload.
Lovely little chisel brother. Nice to see a project under taken without a bench grinder, linisher, proving that they're not essential tools, very handy but not essential.
Thank you! This is exactly what i a trying to get across to people, We don't need all the modern tools to produce the same things. Hammer, forge, anvil, vice and files/rasps are all that is needed, plus i don't have all that fancy kit yet so have to do it this way.
thanks for the wonderful lesson! as a bladesmith i tend to want to learn other parts of smithing as well so that i can make my own tools for drifting and punching,
You deserve much more than one thumbs up. When you have used these chisels and the striking end rounds over and it gets drull do you pull out the grinder or do you reform it? Unless it was just a touch up my Grandfather would have me reform and temer it. Even with shovels and axes. I know metal was hard to come by at the farm but now it's much easier. But if you grind it gets smaller and smaller. On punches he would have me squash it out of round up by the striking end. That would orient the punch and would stop it rolling off the forge. Handy tip. 😁
Your painting on anvil ? I'm guessing Australia? I would think if I could see that country I would love the place. But this old man stays in Ohio USA You are given the best instructions good luck with the You tube experience. 👍 Thanks
I did 😁 I used to put smiley faces on my tools, if they ever went missing I know it's mine. And it's a lifetime tool, the next person who has it can clean it up probably with lasers 😉 I'm in the UK. Thanks for the feedback
I dont have a belt sander, so i try to forge it close as possible, and then maybe rasp or hot file then cold file, then hand sanding. A piece has more soul when made without power tools, but its a subtle difference and not many people can tell or “feel” the difference
That's great! I used to have the same mindset until I started using power tools for my projects. If you have them use them is now my mind set. I'm currently at a workshop with everything and soon to be leaving and going back to basics. I'm kinda dreading the thought of having to do it all by hand again.
Glad to see you back, I like the idea of flatten the main body , it can't roll away. I can't tell where your from so I wouldn't guess but is a regional thing to flatten the body? Never seen that before. The new camera angle is nice also. you don't really work in a basement cave nice to see the sky. Cheers
Its good to be back! The reason i flatten the body is so its easier to hold and direct when cutting, also it was how i have been taught. We get taught differently here in the UK than the rest of the world so thought id show a different approach. Glad you like the new angle, I'm trying to show how i stand at the anvil and work as it seems a lot of others stoop over to forge. Cheers Randy!
I've seen in other videos to stop the "fish lipping", hammer in the edges to push out the center before/during you hammer the eight sides. I'm not sure if that's considered a taper or not. Hope it helps, and if I can find that video I'll link it for you. Thanks for the great video :D
Yes you are right, but i wanted to show a correction of a common forging fault, also if you knock the edges in before forging it may go to small a section, another way around it is linishing the edges and putting a bevel on then heating the core to the same temp as the outside. Please do put a link up, im sure everyone will appreciate it. Cheers Andrew!
Hi Nathan, yes i will be doing a wide range of tongs in the future. This will be a first in the series of tools needed to forge and tongs will be a big part of the series. I got my hammer from a company here in the uk, a farrier supply shop called Handmadeshoesltd its a Jim Keith shoe turning hammer although if I'm honest i wouldn't recommend them as they are expensive for what they are and a little on the soft side.
Thank you for yet another excellent video. I also like the new camera angle, it allows me to study your swing - something which I struggle to get right. Could you say where to get EN9? Everywhere I've tried wants about £30 a foot, plus postage...
Yes it is quite a cool temp for the quench, its not black but also not orange either, Its a nice cherry red. The way i found the colour needed was to heat the same material to orange then sat it on a magnet, as soon as the magnet wanted to stick to the metal i take a mental picture in my head of the colour, so i can remember to quench just before it gets to that colour. A lot of different material will vary in colour for this stage.
Hello- this is a great concept, could you possibly show this technique with a video? Maybe grabbing some 'mystery metals' and using the magnet and spark techniques to hep roughly identify what might best be made with unknown metals?
Your material is graded to the types you want. As a total newbe could you give me a start by comparing with things such as leaf springs or hard forged steel or just everyday construction steel so I have at least an idea of what is what!
I am no metallurgist, but something I always think of when choosing a material for a specific tool goes like this. You get hard, or tough. Hard is brittle, tough is strong. Glass Vs perspex etc. Example 1. Files - hard. Good for edged tools. Example 2. Fork lift forks - tough but wear resistant. Example 3. Leaf spring - tough, but also mildly hard, has memory, and will hold an average edge. Also good wear resistance. So think of a metal in every day use, what does it need to be to do it's job?? Not metal type but what is it being put through, is it struck, is it holding weight, is that weight centered or is it at the other end? Is it rubbing on anything? Does it need to hold up to high heat, cold temperatures? So many factors in this work. It's near impossible to write it out in a UA-cam comments section, Even a video, so hopefully this gives you enough information to think a different way and a lot of research potential. Been doing this 12 years now and still have a very basic understanding of what is what. Hope this helps a bit. Sorry for not being able to explain proper.
great video i ve made a hardy cut and tongs using ur videos EN9 steel where could i find it as scrap metal i am from egypt the only way i get high carbon steel is from car scrap yards could it be in springs shock absorbers stabilizers?
That's great to hear! If you use a coil spring from a truck or similar that should be ok, but from what i know, i would use oil instead of water to harden it, the temperature may be different also.
It will get lost, but it will also re temper often. I harden it then temper, so if it stays away from the hardening temps by keeping it cool as i work with it it will constantly temper when i quench it every 3 blows or so. so it wont get soft as its been hardened in the first place. That's my theory of it anyway. If it does get soft i just re treat it again, as i do with all my tools on an annual basis.
You are my favorite BlackSmith teacher. Your audio needs work. Instructions I would love to hear clear as I do but shop noise is why I'm asking shop pinging and hammers rings please reduce I'm having plenty of shop noise in my shop. Great instructions and but the shop noise Thanks so much
Have a look at some of the later videos John, should be a lot better. I've still not worked out a way to reduce the shop noise but it's getting better. Thanks for the kind words
Shur happy with reduced shop noise myself and it's probably helping get attention from your younger beginners and I'm not leaving you. You are just the best teacher and instructor I've known. Thanks and I'll be back
No, but if you can get a railroad 'C' clip you will be in business!! I say no because as far as i am aware they are strength more than they are for hardness, But i have never seen one. But if i could get something else, i would, but thats me. What else do you have available?
I am in the UK 5160 should be ok if that's what you have, just heat treat accordingly, from what i remember it is an oil quench, i may be wrong so please look it up before hand.
I am no blacksmith, i haven't even got a forge or anvil, but are you not hitting even blows on sides. I know sides 1&3 and 2&4 are the same with a good anvil, but you hit uneven blows on each. I used to be a chef and rolling pastry is kind of the same, sometimes you have to give more care to one side if you applied more pressure on a roll. Is this what you are doing or was you distracted by voice over etc. Regards and great videos/
Yes you noticed correctly, You should take this up even as a hobby with an eye like that ;) As i was going to be turning it into an 8 sided shape the squareness didn't matter too much as that is corrected in the next step, it makes it easier if you forge 4 equal sides but is not essential if the corners will be knocked off in the next step. Voice over does distract quite a bit as i have to face the mic each time i explain something.
Next Christmas you need to ask for a mic and transmitter set ^^ I'm seriously looking into it, so i haven't got much space at the moment i'm thinking of a small propane forced air forge, something home made from a party balloon gas bottle, a little smaller than a 13kg bottle, with ceramic wool and then some sort of coating with a thin fire brick on the bottom to slide the metal on and off to protect it. But part of me also like the smell and the tradition of coal.
Samuel Filler it's the best shape for striking, it doesn't matter if you strike a bit off with the angle of the hammer, because it's domed the force still goes central if that makes sense? Another reason is to slow the mushrooming down as it has to flatten the dome before the edges roll.
Iv'e heard a blacksmith say, It's so when you're cutting along a line, you can have the chisel away from you and as you cut, you roll it hence you can follow the line on your material. That's what I heard.
curved cutting edge means tighter focus of the cutting power. straight edge divides the power of the hammer blow all along the edge, curve keeps it focused to cut deeper and faster.
Hi Nathan, I retired after 40 yrs as a heavy construction equipment operator/heavy duty repairman. My interest in blacksmithing came from watching a TV series "Forged In Fire" on the History Channel here in the U.S.
I like how you show and explain the process for making blacksmithing tools from start to finish. I'm real new to blacksmithing and I'm almost finished assembling equipment and tools to build my first forge, the only items left to complete are the propane forge and coal forge which should be done in 2 wks. Then I'll start practicing with RR spikes, truck leaf and coil springs and axles making various tongs, chisels and hardy tools.
Kudos to you and your tutorials Nathan for the way you break down moving and shaping hot steel, it makes it easy to understand the process of forging metal!
I can't imagine how the process could be shown and explained any better. Very nice. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! Hope you learned something from it!
Nathan, Thank you so much for your step by step videos & instruction. It is so much easier to understand the process & the correct form & angle. I agree with everyone: Your new format is awesome & I finally get to see you as a person...lol. I get to see more about the hammering method, as well. Your work is greatly appreciated!
I love your videos! I'm not a blacksmith nor do I foresee myself becoming one due to a bad back, but just watching the step by step process is fascinating. Very informative and entertaining at the same time.
Thank you! I hope you get better soon, i used to suffer with sciatica for many years, to the point i was nearly in a wheelchair. Not nice at all.
Another great video! Id be interested in seeing a video on a spring fuller for a hardie hole, punches, hardy hold down, and bending forks. I find your videos to be the most instructional and useful to watch for when i want to go and make something.
Thank you that means a lot!! Punches have been filmed and will be added soon, next one is Thursday, Everything you have mentioned is on the list to film so when i get them done i shall upload.
Lovely little chisel brother. Nice to see a project under taken without a bench grinder, linisher, proving that they're not essential tools, very handy but not essential.
Thank you! This is exactly what i a trying to get across to people, We don't need all the modern tools to produce the same things. Hammer, forge, anvil, vice and files/rasps are all that is needed, plus i don't have all that fancy kit yet so have to do it this way.
Well done Nathan! Very enjoyable video.
Thank you very much, you are very good at blacksmithing.
thanks for the wonderful lesson! as a bladesmith i tend to want to learn other parts of smithing as well so that i can make my own tools for drifting and punching,
Very new smith here, I'm loving your stuff, thank you very much!
Interesting video Nathan! I learned something. Before today I thought cold chisels were the only chisels.
Great to see new videos. Thanks Nathan!
Thanks David, I'm enjoying making them again.
thank for the easy/ simpler way of forging to shape great tutorial
No problem! Thanks for taking the time to watch it!
I like that you kept the rounded sides , good stuff!
Thanks! Its a lot more comfortable this way.
I Love how Tidy and clean that Gas forge is. that's really good looking lol.
That was very interesting and informative, thanks once again for a top instructional video.
another great video, thanks for the good view of rasp that was great knowledge.
Thank you! The rasp is one of the most under rated tools of the forge, so much can be done with them!
You deserve much more than one thumbs up. When you have used these chisels and the striking end rounds over and it gets drull do you pull out the grinder or do you reform it? Unless it was just a touch up my Grandfather would have me reform and temer it. Even with shovels and axes. I know metal was hard to come by at the farm but now it's much easier. But if you grind it gets smaller and smaller. On punches he would have me squash it out of round up by the striking end. That would orient the punch and would stop it rolling off the forge. Handy tip. 😁
Your painting on anvil ? I'm guessing Australia? I would think if I could see that country I would love the place. But this old man stays in Ohio USA
You are given the best instructions good luck with the You tube experience. 👍 Thanks
I did 😁 I used to put smiley faces on my tools, if they ever went missing I know it's mine. And it's a lifetime tool, the next person who has it can clean it up probably with lasers 😉
I'm in the UK. Thanks for the feedback
again great video .great instruction
Thanks Rob!
I could barely hear you but it was still a fantastic Video. Thank you very much! (my volume is all the way up)
I dont have a belt sander, so i try to forge it close as possible, and then maybe rasp or hot file then cold file, then hand sanding. A piece has more soul when made without power tools, but its a subtle difference and not many people can tell or “feel” the difference
That's great! I used to have the same mindset until I started using power tools for my projects. If you have them use them is now my mind set. I'm currently at a workshop with everything and soon to be leaving and going back to basics. I'm kinda dreading the thought of having to do it all by hand again.
Glad to see you back, I like the idea of flatten the main body , it can't roll away. I can't tell where your from so I wouldn't guess but is a regional thing to flatten the body? Never seen that before. The new camera angle is nice also. you don't really work in a basement cave nice to see the sky. Cheers
Its good to be back! The reason i flatten the body is so its easier to hold and direct when cutting, also it was how i have been taught. We get taught differently here in the UK than the rest of the world so thought id show a different approach. Glad you like the new angle, I'm trying to show how i stand at the anvil and work as it seems a lot of others stoop over to forge. Cheers Randy!
Great stuff, very informative.
Thanks Again!!
Thank you very much for sharing! Really good stuff! ;)
You are welcome!
I've seen in other videos to stop the "fish lipping", hammer in the edges to push out the center before/during you hammer the eight sides. I'm not sure if that's considered a taper or not. Hope it helps, and if I can find that video I'll link it for you. Thanks for the great video :D
Yes you are right, but i wanted to show a correction of a common forging fault, also if you knock the edges in before forging it may go to small a section, another way around it is linishing the edges and putting a bevel on then heating the core to the same temp as the outside. Please do put a link up, im sure everyone will appreciate it. Cheers Andrew!
Where do you get nice blacksmiths hammers fromplease. Brilliant instructive videos.
Great vid! Thanks
Love this one, Nathan how would you heat treat some spring steel from a spring off a car??
Great video, very easy to understand your process. Will you be doing anymore tong videos? Where did you get your hammer?
Hi Nathan, yes i will be doing a wide range of tongs in the future. This will be a first in the series of tools needed to forge and tongs will be a big part of the series. I got my hammer from a company here in the uk, a farrier supply shop called Handmadeshoesltd its a Jim Keith shoe turning hammer although if I'm honest i wouldn't recommend them as they are expensive for what they are and a little on the soft side.
Nice work!
Perfect thank you
Nice job!
Cheers dude!
ja vi alguns videos seu,você é muito bom like e mais um inscrito acionei o sininho. "PARABÉNS"
Muito obrigado! espero que você goste do conteúdo do passado e do futuro, ótimo ter você aqui!
Thank you for yet another excellent video. I also like the new camera angle, it allows me to study your swing - something which I struggle to get right. Could you say where to get EN9? Everywhere I've tried wants about £30 a foot, plus postage...
Cheers dude! It is not that expensive, i think i pay around £40 for a 4 metre length. Furnivals do it, might be worth checking out prices.
Cheers Nath!
That seems like a cooler heat for the quench than I would have expected... it looked almost black to me. Is that what you are seeing?
Yes it is quite a cool temp for the quench, its not black but also not
orange either, Its a nice cherry red. The way i found the colour needed
was to heat the same material to orange then sat it on a magnet, as soon
as the magnet wanted to stick to the metal i take a mental picture in
my head of the colour, so i can remember to quench just before it gets
to that colour. A lot of different material will vary in colour for this
stage.
Hello- this is a great concept, could you possibly show this technique with a video? Maybe grabbing some 'mystery metals' and using the magnet and spark techniques to hep roughly identify what might best be made with unknown metals?
Nathan could you do one on a ninety degree one for using when making bolt tongs please??
Your material is graded to the types you want. As a total newbe could you give me a start by comparing with things such as leaf springs or hard forged steel or just everyday construction steel so I have at least an idea of what is what!
I am no metallurgist, but something I always think of when choosing a material for a specific tool goes like this. You get hard, or tough. Hard is brittle, tough is strong. Glass Vs perspex etc. Example 1. Files - hard. Good for edged tools.
Example 2. Fork lift forks - tough but wear resistant.
Example 3. Leaf spring - tough, but also mildly hard, has memory, and will hold an average edge. Also good wear resistance.
So think of a metal in every day use, what does it need to be to do it's job?? Not metal type but what is it being put through, is it struck, is it holding weight, is that weight centered or is it at the other end? Is it rubbing on anything? Does it need to hold up to high heat, cold temperatures? So many factors in this work. It's near impossible to write it out in a UA-cam comments section, Even a video, so hopefully this gives you enough information to think a different way and a lot of research potential. Been doing this 12 years now and still have a very basic understanding of what is what. Hope this helps a bit. Sorry for not being able to explain proper.
I have a request if it's not to much trouble? Can you please make a video on how to make a hammer eye punch
Great vid love it, when you heat it before the quenching, how ho would you bring it too, just a cherry red you reckon?
I like the video
Thank you!
Nice!
great video i ve made a hardy cut and tongs using ur videos
EN9 steel where could i find it as scrap metal i am from egypt the only way i get high carbon steel is from car scrap yards
could it be in springs shock absorbers stabilizers?
That's great to hear! If you use a coil spring from a truck or similar that should be ok, but from what i know, i would use oil instead of water to harden it, the temperature may be different also.
Will not the tempering get ruined when cutting hot steel,as getting softer?
It will get lost, but it will also re temper often. I harden it then temper, so if it stays away from the hardening temps by keeping it cool as i work with it it will constantly temper when i quench it every 3 blows or so. so it wont get soft as its been hardened in the first place. That's my theory of it anyway. If it does get soft i just re treat it again, as i do with all my tools on an annual basis.
You are my favorite BlackSmith teacher.
Your audio needs work. Instructions I would love to hear clear as I do but shop noise is why I'm asking shop pinging and hammers rings please reduce I'm having plenty of shop noise in my shop.
Great instructions and but the shop noise
Thanks so much
Have a look at some of the later videos John, should be a lot better. I've still not worked out a way to reduce the shop noise but it's getting better. Thanks for the kind words
Shur happy with reduced shop noise myself and it's probably helping get attention from your younger beginners and I'm not leaving you.
You are just the best teacher and instructor I've known.
Thanks and I'll be back
Where do you get that hammer?
You don't like fileing do you
Great job
Thanks
Why do you cool it down in a shape of an 8 ? It is much easier for the material to gett missformed when heattreated that way
This wont miss shape when cooling down, its too thick. Knives on the other hand will change shape this way.
You need to keep the part moving otherwise it will develop hot & cold spots causing it to warp. Some will warp no matter what you do.
would a railroad spike be good base for this?
No, but if you can get a railroad 'C' clip you will be in business!! I say no because as far as i am aware they are strength more than they are for hardness, But i have never seen one. But if i could get something else, i would, but thats me. What else do you have available?
Are you in the USA? If so, I will ship you one . I have 5160 leaf spring. I can purchase D2.
I am in the UK 5160 should be ok if that's what you have, just heat treat accordingly, from what i remember it is an oil quench, i may be wrong so please look it up before hand.
I’m thinking this is equal to 1050 steel.
No I think it’s 1055
I am no blacksmith, i haven't even got a forge or anvil, but are you not hitting even blows on sides. I know sides 1&3 and 2&4 are the same with a good anvil, but you hit uneven blows on each. I used to be a chef and rolling pastry is kind of the same, sometimes you have to give more care to one side if you applied more pressure on a roll. Is this what you are doing or was you distracted by voice over etc. Regards and great videos/
Yes you noticed correctly, You should take this up even as a hobby with an eye like that ;) As i was going to be turning it into an 8 sided shape the squareness didn't matter too much as that is corrected in the next step, it makes it easier if you forge 4 equal sides but is not essential if the corners will be knocked off in the next step. Voice over does distract quite a bit as i have to face the mic each time i explain something.
Next Christmas you need to ask for a mic and transmitter set ^^ I'm seriously looking into it, so i haven't got much space at the moment i'm thinking of a small propane forced air forge, something home made from a party balloon gas bottle, a little smaller than a 13kg bottle, with ceramic wool and then some sort of coating with a thin fire brick on the bottom to slide the metal on and off to protect it. But part of me also like the smell and the tradition of coal.
Why is it that you put a dome on all of your striking surfaces?
Samuel Filler it's the best shape for striking, it doesn't matter if you strike a bit off with the angle of the hammer, because it's domed the force still goes central if that makes sense? Another reason is to slow the mushrooming down as it has to flatten the dome before the edges roll.
why do all of these chisels I see people forge have a rounded cutting edge instead of straight, like on a normal cold chisel, just wondering
For a hand held hot chisel i do the curved edge so it will walk along much easier, i have no idea why they do it on hardie tools though.
Iv'e heard a blacksmith say, It's so when you're cutting along a line, you can have the chisel away from you and as you cut, you roll it hence you can follow the line on your material. That's what I heard.
curved cutting edge means tighter focus of the cutting power. straight edge divides the power of the hammer blow all along the edge, curve keeps it focused to cut deeper and faster.
It's also to keep the cutting edge away from ur hammer face so as to not mar them up
I like a curved hardy cut off . it works like an axe in that it starts cutting in a small area and spreads out. works really good.
Great videos but I can't hear the commentary very well
Still working on it, it works fine for me but i have had a few comments saying the same thing.
So after work this guy goes to the gym?
Brother it is expensive chisel forgeing with gas forge
Good video but hard to hear the commentary
Again, working on that for the next one as ive had a few people say this also
Straw seems awful hard for the application.