Hi just wanted to say I love your puzzles and helpful informative video's just about finished printing all the parts and waiting for the magnets to arrive thanks Joe!!
Hey Just finished printing, looks awesome. Thank you so much for the level 4 with pre built supports. This was also superconvineint cause I had 4 bolts the perfect size. Thanks so much. All your prints are awesome btw
I can't imagine how long these take you. Just modifying other people's models takes me forever. How easy was it to do the pre-suppoted version? Those are so helpful.
Usually, the designs you see in these videos take 6-12 hours. Occasionally they'll take longer... especially if I'm revising and altering the design over multiple test prints! I forget where I first saw custom modeled supports. I think it might've been this video by Devin from Make Anything: ua-cam.com/video/iZLR3RCa5lk/v-deo.html They're pretty quick if the shape you're supporting is fairly geometric! I recommend checking out Devin's video and giving it a try. Happy modeling!
At 200% scale, anything between 12-30mm long should work for all bolts. I intentionally designed all of the holes so they could work with a broad range of bolt lengths. Happy printing!
The block I assembled in this video is 200% scale - I chose that scale because I knew I could get bolts and magnets that would fit. All the other block puzzles shown are the default 100% scale.
@@sebakiller9736 I'm sorry to hear it's given you trouble. I don't know if the issue is with printing or assembly, but I hope you'll be able to overcome the problems!
Glad you like it! Here's the latest video on that: ua-cam.com/video/TCCuzT0m3fg/v-deo.html I strongly recommend adding the stand. I don't really bother messing with the latch locks because I just rely on the stand to catch the drawers now.
As long as the final position of the key slider is all the way out, you could model some more difficult sliding patterns - even curved or diagonal paths. This might require skipping the magnets, though.
What kind of printer do you use those peice look certain clean mine it'd easy to see the different layers. In new to printing I just got a flash forge guider ll. Do I need to adjust layer hight or?
There are a few factors to consider. The most important, though, is that prints almost always look better on video than they do in person. I believe this has confused a lot of people who think prints they see online are more pristine than they actually are. Setting that aside, there are things you can do to get better prints. - Pay close attention to your printing temperatures and what looks best for a particular filament. Sometimes I'll even have different print temperatures for different colors of the same brand of filament. - If possible, print near the cooler end of the temperature range. This will make prints slightly weaker, but the results tend to be more consistent. - Don't rush print speeds if you can get away with waiting. I'd rather wait 3 hours for a cleaner print than 2 hours for a rough print. - My main printers are Prusa MK3s, which are known for being very well tuned out of the box. With patience most mid-range printers can be dialed in to a similar degree. I recommend checking any forums or communities that have specific advice for the printer you own. - I had a cheaper Flashforge printer in the past, so I don't think my advice there would be very helpful. I can say that, if you're printing in PLA, the enclosure on your printer may actually cause trouble - experiment printing with the lid and/or door open so that the chamber doesn't get excessively toasty for PLA. - If you find a filament that gives you better than usual results, stick with it. For me, that's been Hatchbox, Prusament, Duramic, and a few others. Good luck!
That's the vertical filament spool design I shared in this video: ua-cam.com/video/TCCuzT0m3fg/v-deo.html I highly recommend adding the stand, even though it's technically optional. The stand does a great job of holding the bins in.
Magnets : 3mm x 3mm works fine on 100% print. In this video you print at 200% - surely you need 6mm x 6mm deep magnets but you say 6mm x 3mm in narrative?
At 200% scale, either 6x6mm or 6x3mm should work. The hole is 6mm deep, so if you're using 6x3mm magnets, you may want to pad the bottom of the hole so that the magnet is as close to the surface as possible. Hot glue would work for that - just make sure the magnet doesn't sit above the surface at all, or it'll catch. If you want a very strong snap, then yes, I'd recommend using 6x6mm magnets or doubling up on 6x3mm magnets. It's not mandatory, though. Happy printing!
Hi, terrific job. One problem. I've printed everything and tried to assemble. All parts fit together perfectly, except the bricks. They just will not fit onto the puzzle. As shown in your video, they should slip together quite easily and even require glue to secure in place. I can't get any brick to slide into place. I am orienting them the correct way. Any suggestions?
Sorry to hear that! The block I'm demonstrating was printed at 200% scale, so the bricks are a little looser than normal. But even at 100% scale they should slide on fairly easily. Depending on how bad it is, I might consider forcing them on... carefully. As long as the force is applied in a straight down direction, the bricks really should slip on rather than snap - it's just a matter of what's going to give first. If the connection is so tight that forcing is obviously not going to work, I'd sand down the flat sides of all four "level" parts. These surfaces will be mostly hidden, so sanding them down shouldn't harm how it looks. They should also be pretty easy to sand since the surfaces we're worried about are straight. If it's really REALLY off... I guess I'd double check that nothing was scaled accidentally in the slicer. I'd also check if the color used for the core had a significantly different nozzle temperature than the color for the bricks - over extrusion could cause something like this. I hope one of these tricks help!
Hi, Thank you for such a detailed reply. I've tried filing the flat surfaces as you suggest. But, no joy. I have seen where the problem is and sanding won't fix this. When I position the brick ready to slide into place and look directly down, I can see that the runners don't exactly line up with the slots. I'm printing a single brick now with the red axis set to 101%, to see if that lines up better. If not, I think I'll just have to file, or cut, all the notches off and simply glue flat in place. I'm caught for time as I wanted to use it for a little gift for my Niece on next wednesday. So, still a great design. Obviously, there must be just something slightly off in mine. Cheers
Oh no! Just to be safe, I rechecked all the bricks in the model and they appear to be correct. Something weird must have happened to cause them to be so off. Printing the bricks at a slightly larger scale on the X/Y plane sounds like a good idea. I hope that one way or the other you'll be able to get that working in time for your niece! If there is time, let me know if you'd like the brick models without the nubs. Good luck!
Hi, update on problem. I did think I was facing a big task of filing down all those faces. However, I tried one other idea and it worked. I was able line up each brick at its slide in position. Then, using a Kreg clamp, I applied considerable pressure and drove each brick into place. I’m sure this was not the originally intended method of assembly, but hey, it worked. Many thanks again for a fascinating project.
I can just know the puzzle and then just don't use the puzzle box for a year and I don't remember how to solve it. There you go, a spoiler free puzzle box for me haha
I printed it like you described in video at 200% … a waste of filament. M6 screws don’t fit and 6mm I bought also don’t fit 😢😢😢. All holes are to big. Why you show this in your video? 😤
I'm sorry to hear that your print didn't turn out as well. For my own prints, M6 screws worked just fine. I would never make a video about a model that I wasn't able to print and build myself first. I believe you can still get your print to function with a little additional work. There are several options. The best option would be to add oversized heat set inserts, but getting the correct size could be tricky. An easier fix would be to pad out the holes with some hot glue. This won't be a super strong connection, but I should be sufficient for the puzzle to work. If you have access to Gloop or a similar glue made specifically for welding PLA together, I'd use that on any non-moving parts. I hope that helps!
This is SO COOL! I just finished building mine. Everything is scaled to perfection. Thanks!
Excellent! Enjoy challenging friends and family to figure it out :)
Almost done with this puzzle. Made the mini chest 3wks ago, have to finish the barrel rings and add rubber washer's and working on this one right now.
You're building quite the collection of my puzzle designs. Thanks for printing!
Hi just wanted to say I love your puzzles and helpful informative video's
just about finished printing all the parts and waiting for the magnets to arrive
thanks Joe!!
Awesome! Good luck with the assembly!
Hey
Just finished printing, looks awesome.
Thank you so much for the level 4 with pre built supports.
This was also superconvineint cause I had 4 bolts the perfect size.
Thanks so much.
All your prints are awesome btw
I'm glad it helped! I just really dislike using generated supports and don't trust long bridging.
I can't wait to print this!
Happy printing and enjoy the puzzle!
Your creations are so amazing!!! 😊
😊
im getting a 3d printer soon and i cant wait to make a bunch of prints like these
Welcome to the world of 3D Printing! May your bed be level and your filament forever untangled.
awesome, great designs and excellent work, thank you
Glad you like it! Thanks for watching!
I can't imagine how long these take you. Just modifying other people's models takes me forever.
How easy was it to do the pre-suppoted version? Those are so helpful.
Usually, the designs you see in these videos take 6-12 hours. Occasionally they'll take longer... especially if I'm revising and altering the design over multiple test prints!
I forget where I first saw custom modeled supports. I think it might've been this video by Devin from Make Anything: ua-cam.com/video/iZLR3RCa5lk/v-deo.html
They're pretty quick if the shape you're supporting is fairly geometric! I recommend checking out Devin's video and giving it a try. Happy modeling!
An elegant puzzlebox design, for a more civilized age.
Truth.
I always love puzzle box, thank for making it so interesting. 👍🎉
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
@@3DPrinty I want to print it in 200% scale for my son’s birthday, which M6 length should I use? Thanks
At 200% scale, anything between 12-30mm long should work for all bolts. I intentionally designed all of the holes so they could work with a broad range of bolt lengths. Happy printing!
how big did you scale the cube dne you have assembled the ones on Thingiverse are smaller
The block I assembled in this video is 200% scale - I chose that scale because I knew I could get bolts and magnets that would fit. All the other block puzzles shown are the default 100% scale.
Wow a Great Video i am waiting last week . I Print all items make tomorrow acording your Video
Good luck!
@@3DPrinty My luck is not good, i bring it not correct to a complete Cube 😞
@@sebakiller9736 I'm sorry to hear it's given you trouble. I don't know if the issue is with printing or assembly, but I hope you'll be able to overcome the problems!
That’s really cool
Love your content!
Pretty clever!
Thank you!
Where did you find that screw keeper filament spool thing, totally want to make one
Glad you like it! Here's the latest video on that: ua-cam.com/video/TCCuzT0m3fg/v-deo.html
I strongly recommend adding the stand. I don't really bother messing with the latch locks because I just rely on the stand to catch the drawers now.
It’s Awesome
I love it!
Can u adjust the sliding pattern of the sliderssssssss?
As long as the final position of the key slider is all the way out, you could model some more difficult sliding patterns - even curved or diagonal paths. This might require skipping the magnets, though.
I would like to print this file. Is there any way I can download a copy of it?
Here are the links. Happy printing!
Prusa Printers
www.prusaprinters.org/prints/81772-brick-block-puzzle-box
Thangs
thangs.com/mythangs/file/31104
What kind of printer do you use those peice look certain clean mine it'd easy to see the different layers. In new to printing I just got a flash forge guider ll. Do I need to adjust layer hight or?
There are a few factors to consider. The most important, though, is that prints almost always look better on video than they do in person. I believe this has confused a lot of people who think prints they see online are more pristine than they actually are.
Setting that aside, there are things you can do to get better prints.
- Pay close attention to your printing temperatures and what looks best for a particular filament. Sometimes I'll even have different print temperatures for different colors of the same brand of filament.
- If possible, print near the cooler end of the temperature range. This will make prints slightly weaker, but the results tend to be more consistent.
- Don't rush print speeds if you can get away with waiting. I'd rather wait 3 hours for a cleaner print than 2 hours for a rough print.
- My main printers are Prusa MK3s, which are known for being very well tuned out of the box. With patience most mid-range printers can be dialed in to a similar degree. I recommend checking any forums or communities that have specific advice for the printer you own.
- I had a cheaper Flashforge printer in the past, so I don't think my advice there would be very helpful. I can say that, if you're printing in PLA, the enclosure on your printer may actually cause trouble - experiment printing with the lid and/or door open so that the chamber doesn't get excessively toasty for PLA.
- If you find a filament that gives you better than usual results, stick with it. For me, that's been Hatchbox, Prusament, Duramic, and a few others.
Good luck!
what is the spool storage at 1:45?
please link
That's the vertical filament spool design I shared in this video: ua-cam.com/video/TCCuzT0m3fg/v-deo.html
I highly recommend adding the stand, even though it's technically optional. The stand does a great job of holding the bins in.
Magnets : 3mm x 3mm works fine on 100% print. In this video you print at 200% - surely you need 6mm x 6mm deep magnets but you say 6mm x 3mm in narrative?
At 200% scale, either 6x6mm or 6x3mm should work.
The hole is 6mm deep, so if you're using 6x3mm magnets, you may want to pad the bottom of the hole so that the magnet is as close to the surface as possible. Hot glue would work for that - just make sure the magnet doesn't sit above the surface at all, or it'll catch.
If you want a very strong snap, then yes, I'd recommend using 6x6mm magnets or doubling up on 6x3mm magnets. It's not mandatory, though.
Happy printing!
Hi, terrific job. One problem. I've printed everything and tried to assemble. All parts fit together perfectly, except the bricks. They just will not fit onto the puzzle. As shown in your video, they should slip together quite easily and even require glue to secure in place. I can't get any brick to slide into place. I am orienting them the correct way. Any suggestions?
Sorry to hear that! The block I'm demonstrating was printed at 200% scale, so the bricks are a little looser than normal. But even at 100% scale they should slide on fairly easily.
Depending on how bad it is, I might consider forcing them on... carefully. As long as the force is applied in a straight down direction, the bricks really should slip on rather than snap - it's just a matter of what's going to give first.
If the connection is so tight that forcing is obviously not going to work, I'd sand down the flat sides of all four "level" parts. These surfaces will be mostly hidden, so sanding them down shouldn't harm how it looks. They should also be pretty easy to sand since the surfaces we're worried about are straight.
If it's really REALLY off... I guess I'd double check that nothing was scaled accidentally in the slicer. I'd also check if the color used for the core had a significantly different nozzle temperature than the color for the bricks - over extrusion could cause something like this.
I hope one of these tricks help!
Hi, Thank you for such a detailed reply. I've tried filing the flat surfaces as you suggest. But, no joy. I have seen where the problem is and sanding won't fix this. When I position the brick ready to slide into place and look directly down, I can see that the runners don't exactly line up with the slots. I'm printing a single brick now with the red axis set to 101%, to see if that lines up better. If not, I think I'll just have to file, or cut, all the notches off and simply glue flat in place. I'm caught for time as I wanted to use it for a little gift for my Niece on next wednesday. So, still a great design. Obviously, there must be just something slightly off in mine. Cheers
Oh no! Just to be safe, I rechecked all the bricks in the model and they appear to be correct. Something weird must have happened to cause them to be so off.
Printing the bricks at a slightly larger scale on the X/Y plane sounds like a good idea. I hope that one way or the other you'll be able to get that working in time for your niece! If there is time, let me know if you'd like the brick models without the nubs. Good luck!
Hi, update on problem. I did think I was facing a big task of filing down all those faces. However, I tried one other idea and it worked. I was able line up each brick at its slide in position. Then, using a Kreg clamp, I applied considerable pressure and drove each brick into place. I’m sure this was not the originally intended method of assembly, but hey, it worked. Many thanks again for a fascinating project.
Hey, as long as it works! I'm glad the project was able to move forward without sanding!
Cute
Cool!!
Thanks!
I can just know the puzzle and then just don't use the puzzle box for a year and I don't remember how to solve it. There you go, a spoiler free puzzle box for me haha
Very good point!
I printed it like you described in video at 200% … a waste of filament. M6 screws don’t fit and 6mm I bought also don’t fit 😢😢😢. All holes are to big.
Why you show this in your video? 😤
I'm sorry to hear that your print didn't turn out as well. For my own prints, M6 screws worked just fine. I would never make a video about a model that I wasn't able to print and build myself first.
I believe you can still get your print to function with a little additional work. There are several options.
The best option would be to add oversized heat set inserts, but getting the correct size could be tricky.
An easier fix would be to pad out the holes with some hot glue. This won't be a super strong connection, but I should be sufficient for the puzzle to work. If you have access to Gloop or a similar glue made specifically for welding PLA together, I'd use that on any non-moving parts.
I hope that helps!
No thank you